4X4 Australia

Despite the arrival of the ninth-gen Toyota HiLux late last year, the Ford Ranger continues to be the best-selling 4×4 vehicle in Australia. 

In April, the Ford Ranger recorded 3431 sales on the 4×4 charts, comfortably ahead of the Toyota HiLux on 2535. That gap is also reflected year-to-date, with the Ranger leading 15,023 to 11,486. The perennial top two are followed by the Isuzu D-MAX (1526), BYD Shark (1371) and Mitsubishi Triton (1125) in the PU/CC 4×4 rankings. Further down the list, it was another subdued month for the Kia Tasman despite its strong on- and off-road credentials, with Kia managing just 266 sales in April and 1433 year-to-date.

In the budget 4×4 segment, the GWM Cannon range has continued to outperform its direct rivals, with 796 combined sales across Cannon and Cannon Alpha. By contrast, the LDV T60 (214), LDV Terron9 (89), Foton Tunland (88), JAC T9 (56) and MG U9 (94) all recorded relatively soft results. The KGM Musso posted 132 sales ahead of its mid-year update.

At the premium end of the market, the Chevrolet Silverado/HD (237) led the large pick-up segment ahead of the Ram 1500 (121), Ford F-150 (84) and Toyota Tundra (51).

Overall, the Light Commercial Vehicle (LCV) market softened in April 2026, with 17,408 sales recorded compared to 20,436 in April 2025 – a 14.8 per cent year-on-year decline. The slowdown is also reflected in year-to-date figures, with 6202 fewer LCVs sold so far in 2026, representing a 7.3 per cent drop.

Digging deeper into the PU/CC 4×4 segment reveals a similar trend. April 2026 sales totalled 13,251, down from 15,672 in April 2025 – a 15.4 per cent decline. Year-to-date, 5400 fewer vehicles have been sold compared to the same period last year, equating to an 8.3 per cent decrease.

Diesel- and petrol-powered vehicle sales have also taken a significant hit, with 6225 fewer diesel models and 10,953 fewer petrol variants sold in April compared to the same month last year. Much of that demand appears to be shifting towards electrified options, with EV, hybrid and PHEV sales up by 8693, 3874 and 7027 units respectively.

The year-to-date figures tell much the same story. Diesel sales are down by 10,248 units, while petrol has seen a much steeper fall of 32,938. Meanwhile, EV, hybrid and PHEV sales continue to climb, up 22,998, 3812 and 12,546 units respectively.

In fact, Australians are buying EVs in record numbers, with electric vehicles accounting for 16.4 per cent of all new-car sales in April 2026 – roughly one in every six vehicles delivered nationwide. Overall, the new-vehicle market recorded 92,591 sales for the month, up 2.2 per cent on April 2025 despite ongoing economic uncertainty.

“The increase in supply of EVs since the introduction of the New Vehicle Efficiency Scheme, combined with higher petrol prices and the continued support provided through the Federal Government’s Electric Car Discount, is now translating into stronger demand,” said Tony Weber, FCAI chief executive.

“There are around 110 EV models available to Australians, and the supply of EVs continues to increase. The Electric Car Discount has provided important stimulus to the market, and its continuation will support the growth of EVs,” Weber said. “Stronger EV uptake is driving increased demand for public charging, and that demand must be matched by a step change in both public and private investment to ensure infrastructure keeps pace.”

Toyota held onto its position as Australia’s top-selling brand in April, shifting 15,185 vehicles for the month, while BYD continued its rapid rise to claim second spot with 7702 sales ahead of Kia and Hyundai. Ford rounded out the top five on the back of strong Ranger demand, while Chinese brands including GWM, Chery and MG all featured inside the top 10, highlighting the continued shake-up of the local new-car market. On the model charts, the Toyota RAV4 narrowly edged out the Ford Ranger (4×4 and 4×2) as Australia’s best-selling vehicle, with the Toyota HiLux (4×4 and 4×2) close behind.

Chinese brands also continued to strengthen their foothold, making up around 30 per cent of total sales, while BYD emerged as the country’s second best-selling marque for the month with an 8.3 per cent market share. That momentum is being driven largely by China’s growing dominance as a production hub, with 28,041 Chinese-built vehicles sold in Australia in April 2026 alone. That compares with 14,917 in April 2025, underlining the rapid pace of growth.

The year-to-date figures reinforce the trend, with nearly 40,000 more Chinese-made vehicles sold in Australia so far in 2026 compared to the same period last year.

MORE Ranger news and reviews!

The most powerful LandCruiser ever sold in Australia will be priced from $156,060 when the new hybrid lands mid-year, positioning the electrified variant firmly at the top end of the 300 Series line-up.

Toyota has confirmed pricing for the hybrid line-up, with the GR Sport opening at $156,060 and the Sahara ZX following at $156,810.

Both variants use Toyota’s i-FORCE MAX twin-turbo 3.4-litre V6 petrol-electric system, producing 341kW and 790Nm combined. That gives it a clear gain over the 3.3-litre turbo-diesel, up 114kW and 90Nm, and marks the most powerful output ever seen in a LandCruiser sold here.

“For more than two decades, Toyota has played a pioneering role in the development of hybrid technology and the new performance hybrid in the LandCruiser 300 Series takes that to another level,” said John Pappas, Toyota Australia’s Vice President Sales, Marketing and Franchise Operations.

“Unlike our efficiency hybrids in vehicles like Camry and RAV4, this hybrid powertrain is all about improving performance – whether that’s for off-road adventures well beyond the tarmac or towing heavy loads such as caravans, horse floats or boats.

“Toyota customers have experienced the power and towing performance of the i-FORCE MAX powertrain in the Tundra landmark truck, with that proven capability now coming into the LandCruiser family.

“As the most powerful LandCruiser we have ever produced, the new performance hybrid GR Sport and Sahara ZX offer the ultimate performance in a premium 4WD SUV,” he said.

Underneath, the 300 Series formula remains intact. Full-time 4WD, Multi-Terrain Select and adaptive variable suspension continue across both grades. The Sahara ZX retains a rear Torsen limited-slip differential, while the GR Sport uses a more off-road-focused setup with front and rear diff locks and electronically controlled E-KDSS suspension.

Changes tied to the hybrid system include electric power steering replacing hydraulic assist, a 200V/1500W rear auxiliary power outlet, and a revised 40/20/40 split rear seat.

Inside, both grades remain heavily equipped with leather-accented trim, heated and ventilated front and outer rear seats, a 12.3-inch infotainment system and a 14-speaker JBL audio system. The Sahara ZX also adds dual rear-seat entertainment screens.

Both models will be covered by Toyota’s five-year unlimited-kilometre warranty and capped-price servicing program.

MORE LandCruiser 300 Series news and reviews!

JAC has confirmed the Hunter PHEV will start from under $50,000 MSRP in Australia, undercutting key plug-in hybrid rivals including the BYD Shark and Ford Ranger PHEV.

BYD’s Shark launched in Australia at around $57,900 drive-away, establishing an early benchmark for the segment as one of the first mainstream plug-in hybrid dual-cab utes to reach the local market.

JAC has also confirmed the Hunter will offer a 3500kg braked towing capacity and 915kg payload across the range. Power comes from a dual system pairing a 2.0T GDI engine with dual electric motors, backed by a 31.2kWh LFP battery.

“Our focus was simple, deliver a truly work-ready ute with class-leading power, serious towing capability and outstanding efficiency, without the premium price tag,” said Ahmed Mahmoud, Managing Director at JAC Motors Australia. “With Hunter, we’re giving Australian buyers everything they’ve been asking for and more, at a price point that changes the conversation.”

The 4×4 system includes front and rear differential locks and vehicle-to-load capability. JAC lists combined fuel consumption at 1.6L/100km (NEDC), with a claimed combined range of up to 1,005km under NEDC testing.

Development input came from Michael Barber of Multimatic, known for high-performance and off-road engineering programs, while the Hunter has also completed a 50,000km local validation program covering extreme heat, heavy rain, unsealed roads and long-distance touring conditions.

Reservations for the Hunter open Tuesday 5 May at 5pm AEST via jacute.com.au/hunter, with the first 1000 customers eligible for either a free home charger or a $500 JAC Genuine Accessory voucher on delivery.

MORE JAC Hunter PHEV gets local suspension tuning for Aussie 4×4 conditions

Chery Australia has narrowed the field in its nationwide naming competition for the brand’s upcoming plug-in hybrid diesel ute, revealing a shortlist of nine names from more than 20,000 submissions.

Set to arrive in local showrooms later this year, the all-new ute has been developed with Australian conditions in mind. Chery says it will offer a 1000kg payload, 3500kg braked towing capacity and a diesel-electric plug-in hybrid powertrain aimed at combining traditional towing grunt with improved efficiency.

The public call-out drew entries from across the country, with Australians asked to nominate a name that captured the character of the new dual-cab and explain why it suited the vehicle. According to Chery, the shortlisted entries were shaped by themes of toughness, performance and durability, reflecting the way Aussies view utes as both hard-working tools and lifestyle vehicles.

“We asked Australians to help name this ute, and they delivered in a big way. The shortlisted names show just how passionate Aussies are about utes, but also how they’re thinking about the next generation of vehicles as new energy technology evolves,” said Lucas Harris, Chief Operating Officer, Chery Australia.

The nine shortlisted names are:

The competition now moves to the public voting stage, with Australians soon set to choose their preferred name before the final winner is announced.

Whoever submitted the winning name will receive the first example of Chery’s new plug-in hybrid diesel ute when it lands in Australia later this year.

MORE Utey McUteface? Australians get to name Chery’s world-first plug-in hybrid diesel ute

There’s a moment every 4WD owner knows all too well.

You’ve aired down for sand or a rough track, had a solid day off-road, and then you pull up at the edge of the bitumen. Now comes the part no one really enjoys – airing back up. That’s where a good compressor earns its keep.

The Tuff Terrain V4 High Output Air Compressor is aimed squarely at that job, with a focus on fast inflation, consistent performance under load, and a setup that’s easy to use when you’re tired and ready to get moving again.

Real-world performance where it matters

On paper, plenty of compressors throw around big airflow numbers. The reality is that once pressure builds inside a tyre, weaker units slow down quickly.

The V4 is built around a four-cylinder design pushing up to around 400L/min, which is aimed at maintaining usable airflow even as pressure climbs. In practical terms, that translates to:

It’s the kind of performance that matters when you’ve got four tyres to air up – and maybe a camper or trailer behind you as well.

MORE All things Tuff Terrain!
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Built around touring setups

The V4 sits in that middle ground between fully hard-mounted systems and smaller portable compressors.

It’s supplied as a portable unit, but with the option to mount it permanently later if your setup evolves. That flexibility suits a lot of touring builds, especially dual-cabs running drawers, canopies or rear storage systems. Power comes via direct-to-battery alligator clamps, backed by an inline fuse, which is pretty standard for high-draw compressors pulling around the 100-amp mark .

Like most high-output 12V compressors, it’s best used with the engine running to maintain stable voltage and performance.

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A setup that actually works in the real world

One of the more practical parts of the V4 kit is how it’s put together. Here’s what it comes with:

That 8m hose is worth mentioning – it means you’re not dragging the compressor around the vehicle to reach each tyre, which is a small detail that makes a big difference in day-to-day use. It also uses twin outlet fittings, so there’s scope to run additional accessories or streamline your setup depending on how your gear is configured.

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Designed for bigger tyres and heavier setups

Where compressors like this really come into their own is with larger tyres and loaded touring rigs.

Smaller compressors can handle topping up road pressures, but they start to struggle once you’re dealing with 33- to 35-inch tyres, lower starting pressures (sand driving), and/or heavier vehicles or towing setups. The V4’s higher airflow and larger internal capacity mean it’s better suited to those kinds of setups, where consistency and heat management become more important over multiple tyres.

Not just about speed

Speed is the headline feature, but consistency matters just as much.

The V4 uses a multi-cylinder design with decent oil and cooling capacity, which helps reduce performance drop-off during longer use – something you’ll notice when inflating all four tyres back-to-back. It’s also rated for high pressure (around 150psi), giving it enough headroom for things like trailer tyres or higher-pressure applications.

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Where it fits in your setup

This isn’t a budget compressor, and it’s not trying to be. Instead, it sits alongside other high-output touring compressors aimed at drivers who:

For occasional beach trips, a smaller unit might get the job done. But for regular touring, the difference in speed and ease of use becomes pretty noticeable.

The bottom line

A compressor is one of those bits of gear you don’t think much about – until you’re stuck using a slow one on the side of the road.

The Tuff Terrain V4 High Output Air Compressor focuses on doing the job properly: fast airflow, usable performance under pressure, and a setup that’s practical in real-world touring conditions. It won’t make airing up fun – but it will make it quicker, easier, and a whole lot less frustrating.

MORE More info at Outback Equipment

JAC has announced an End of Financial Year (EOFY) promotion for its JAC T9 diesel ute range, offering a $4000 fuel voucher to eligible buyers.

The offer applies to new JAC T9 diesel models purchased and delivered between May 1 2026 and June 30 2026, with the promotion ending on June 30. Customers will receive a $4000 fuel voucher issued by the dealership on delivery, or may instead take the equivalent value as a discount off the vehicle price.

The promotion excludes demonstrator, government and rental fleet vehicles, cannot be combined with other offers, and is available while stocks last. Fuel voucher terms and conditions are set by the issuing company, and JAC Motors Australia retains the right to extend, withdraw or change the offer at any time.

In the lead-up to EOFY, manufacturers and dealers typically roll out targeted incentives on existing stock as they aim to clear inventory before the end of the financial year, and this offer follows that seasonal pattern.

The T9 is powered by a 2.0-litre turbo-diesel engine producing 120kW and 410Nm, paired with an 8-speed automatic transmission and a part-time dual-range 4×4 system with a rear differential lock as standard.

We took a T9 off-road last year and found it to be a value-focused option that prioritises capability and equipment over refinement. It has solid off-road hardware including dual-range 4×4 and a rear diff lock, but the ride and overall refinement feel firm and less polished than more established rivals, positioning it more as a budget work ute than a comfort-focused lifestyle option.

JAC also expanded the T9 line-up last month with the introduction of the TradePro cab-chassis, a more work-focused variant aimed at tradies, fleet operators and small business buyers looking for a base platform they can customise with trays or service bodies.

MORE T9 news and reviews!

Mud wrestling might sound like fun, but it’s always a safer option to avoid the sticky, gloopy stuff if you can. Why? Because mud is no good for your 4×4; it can be damaging to paintwork, mechanical components, and your vehicle’s interior.

And it’s not just your vehicle that can cop damage when driving through mud. Aggressive mud-terrain tyres spinning furiously while trying to gain purchase can cause severe damage to roads and tracks, making it harder for following vehicles to get through – even after everything has dried up.

As well as vehicle and track damage, if things don’t go to plan in mud, you could end up stuck… and getting out can sometimes be extremely difficult.

So, the next time you’re driving along a track and tempted to drive through a big mud hole, a better option is to look for a way around it. Of course, sometimes there won’t be an alternative route, or you just might not be able to help yourself, in which case here’s what you’ll need to do.

JUMP AHEAD

Vehicle preparation: Tyres, clearance and recovery gear

Your 4×4’s tyres are critical when it comes to maintaining forward progress on any off-road surface, and mud is no exception.

When driving in mud, aptly named mud-terrain tyres are the best choice. They have wide-open tread blocks that allow them to gain traction more easily in slippery mud, and they are also more able to clear mud when spinning than tyres with tighter tread patterns that can trap and hold on to mud. Some mud-terrain tyres also have tread blocks that continue over the tread face and onto the sidewalls (sometimes called side-biters) for additional traction in slippery conditions.

Mud-terrain tyres aren’t for everyone, however, as there are several compromises compared to less aggressive all-terrain or highway-terrain tyres. These include less on-road grip, increased road noise, and faster tyre wear. If you’re not willing to accept these compromises, all-terrain tyres are the next best choice for mud driving, but even highway-terrain tyres can still work well in mud if the correct tyre pressures are set… more on that later.

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The next thing to consider is ground clearance. Mud is viscous and gets pushed around by spinning tyres, often resulting in deep wheel tracks. If your 4×4 drops into these, you can quickly run out of clearance and get “hung up” on the crown of a track. The more clearance you have, the less chance of getting stuck.

In most states and territories, you can legally increase ground clearance by up to 75mm by combining larger diameter tyres (+25mm) and a raised suspension system (+50mm).* You can go further in some areas with engineering approval or second-stage manufacturer compliance.

Other useful equipment includes front and rear differential locks, a quality snorkel, and extended breathers for differentials, gearbox, and transfer case. Ensure you have rated recovery points front and rear, and carry appropriate recovery gear.

How to assess a mud hole

If you’re confronted by a big mud hole, you need to find out what’s beneath the surface. The best way to do this is with a big stick… unless you don’t mind getting wet and checking on foot. If you do, wear sturdy footwear.

Walk along each side of the mud hole and use your stick to gauge depth and firmness. Check whether the base is solid or sloppy, and assess how high the crown is to ensure you have enough clearance. Probe for hidden obstacles such as rocks, branches, or broken vehicle parts. You may need momentum to get through, so you don’t want to hit anything solid.

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Also check for rocks or roots protruding from the sides that could damage tyres. This inspection also allows your vehicle time to cool. Dropping hot components into cold muddy water can cause rapid contraction and potentially suck mud past worn seals in gearboxes, transfer cases, and diffs.

If you’re on an outback road and encounter mud, slow down so you can choose your line carefully. Mistakes here can quickly lead to getting bogged. Even sealed roads in remote areas can hide mud along verges after rain, so be cautious when pulling off.

In desert regions, sticky mud can sit just below a crusty surface layer. If you break through, you could be stuck quickly. If you see existing tracks that exit the section, use them where possible as they’re likely to be compacted.

Tyre pressures and recovery planning

Tyre pressures are key. Lowering pressures increases the footprint of each tyre, helping them conform to uneven surfaces and gain traction.

How low depends on load and vehicle, but if you normally run 35psi on-road, you could safely drop to around 22psi for mud driving. Lower pressures increase the risk of tyre rollover or overheating, so avoid sudden steering inputs and excessive speed.

Always have an escape plan. If travelling with others, keep a snatch strap ready. If solo, ensure recovery boards and a shovel are accessible. If you have a winch, make sure all gear (extension straps, tree trunk protector, shackles, snatch blocks/rings) is ready and you have suitable anchor points.

How to drive through mud: Gear selection, momentum and technique

You’re now ready to tackle the mud, so lock your hubs if fitted, make sure your vehicle is in 4×4, lock the centre diff if fitted, and select the gear that you think will result in enough speed and momentum to get you through the muddy section.

Low-range second or third is often a safe bet, but it will depend on your vehicle’s overall gearing and the mud you’re faced with; the key is to maintain enough speed to get you through to the other side, but not so much speed that you might damage your vehicle.

If your 4×4 has selectable drive modes, select the appropriate one for mud, which on many vehicles is labelled ‘mud and ruts’. This will tailor throttle response, automatic gear shifts and the behaviour of the traction-control system to suit the conditions. If you have diff locks on rear and/or front axles, lock them before driving into the mud, but be wary that locking your front diff will make it more difficult to steer the vehicle.

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When driving through mud, keep engine revs up and try to avoid gear changes; in manual transmission vehicles, disengaging the clutch in mud can result in you losing momentum and quickly becoming stuck – you need to keep those wheels turning!

On the flipside, if you bury your wellie and your tyres start spinning furiously in mud, there’s a chance you could simply be digging yourself into the muck. If you start to lose traction, the trick is to find a happy medium between wheelspin and forward progress. There is an upside to your wheels spinning, and that is the rotational forces will help to clear mud from the tread blocks so the tyres will have more chance of gaining purchase.

If you start losing momentum but the wheels are still spinning, another trick is to quickly turn the steering wheel back and forth. This action gives the front tyres a chance to bite into the sides of ruts, which with any luck will help to drag your vehicle through the mud. The side-biters on mud-terrain tyres assist when employing this technique. You might have to straddle wheel tracks if they look too deep, but take care not to slide into the tracks.

Mud driving in hilly terrain can be fraught with danger, especially on steep descents. In these conditions you’ll want to rely on your vehicle’s low-range gearing as much as possible to keep speed in check instead of the brake pedal. On older vehicles without ABS, if you jump on the brakes and the front wheels lock up you will lose steering control. If this happens, dropping into existing wheel tracks can help point you in the right direction. On vehicles equipped with ABS, relying on the brakes can result in excessive braking distances. Slow and steady is the best technique for muddy descents.

How to recover a 4WD stuck in mud

The first thing to do if you get stuck in the mud is to try and reverse out. Often the reason you become stuck is because mud builds up in front of the tyres, so if you can back up a bit and have another go with a bit more gusto you might just be able to make it out of your predicament.

If you can’t move in either direction, chances are much mud has built up under your vehicle, so you’ll need to grab your shovel and start clearing the mud away. Start by shovelling away the mud on front of the tyres, and then underneath your rig. Now could also be a good time to use your recovery boards. Wedge them in front of the front tyres, select low-range first and try to gently drive on to the recovery tracks. Once up and on to the tracks, try to build up speed and maintain momentum until you’ve reached firmer ground. This can take several attempts.

If you’re fortunate enough to be travelling with other vehicles, a tug with a snatch strap or kinetic recovery rope is one of the fastest ways to recover a vehicle from mud, but make sure you know what you’re doing, and always follow proper safety procedures.

If you need to winch yourself out of the mud, make sure you find a solid anchor point and use a double-line pull if you’re really stuck. Before you start winching, clear away as much mud as possible from in front of the tyres and under the vehicle.

Essential recovery gear

MORE We dig it: MAXTRAX All Terrain Recovery Shovel review

Post-mud inspection, cleaning and maintenance

Once you’re out of the mud, have a good look over your vehicle to check for damage.

When reinflating tyres, have a good look to make sure they are not damaged and check that mud hasn’t worked its way in-between the tyres and the wheels. Also have a good look inside the wheel rims to ensure there aren’t big clumps of mud in there that could throw them out of balance.

Make sure your mudflaps and wheel-arch flares are all in place and secured, and that the licence plates are still attached and not covered in mud. Also make sure your headlights, tail-lights and indicators are clean, as well as your windscreen, windows and mirrors.

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Once you get home, clean your vehicle as soon as you can. The abrasive nature of dried out mud is no good for your vehicle’s paint, chrome or plastics. Give your rig a good clean underneath too, as mud can be hell on components such as clutches, wheel bearings and CV joints. Also have a good look in chassis rails for built-up mud that could result in corrosion issues down the track, and hose away any mud between the body and chassis, and around suspension components and fuel tanks.

Lift the bonnet and make sure the radiator, alternator and other components aren’t caked in mud. If they are, thoroughly clean them to prevent engine overheating or electrical failures. If you’ve been driving in deep mud holes, you should also check the engine, gearbox and diff oils to make sure no contaminants have worked their way into these mechanical components.

As I said at the start of this guide, it’s always a good option to try to avoid mud rather than drive through it if you can.

What to do

  • Try to avoid mud if possible
  • Lower tyre pressures appropriately
  • Engage 4×4 and correct drive modes
  • Maintain momentum
  • Carry and prepare recovery gear

What not to do

  • Enter mud without checking depth
  • Lose momentum through unnecessary gear changes
  • Brake heavily on muddy descents
  • Pull off into unknown soft verges
  • Leave mud caked on your vehicle
How to drive in mud
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Common mistakes when driving in mud

Even experienced 4×4 drivers get caught out in mud. Most recoveries aren’t caused by bad luck, they’re caused by avoidable mistakes.

Different types of mud and why it matters

Not all mud behaves the same, and understanding the difference can help you decide whether to proceed, reroute, or avoid it entirely.

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Warning signs you’re losing traction in mud

Recognising the early signs of trouble can make the difference between driving through and getting stuck.

FAQs: 4WD tips and safety

Do I need mud-terrain tyres for driving in mud?
Not strictly. Mud-terrain tyres perform best due to their open tread design, but quality all-terrain tyres can still work well if tyre pressures are adjusted correctly. Highway-terrain tyres can manage light mud in some conditions, but traction will be more limited.

How low should I drop tyre pressures in mud?
It depends on vehicle load and setup, but as a general guide, if you normally run around 35psi on-road, dropping to roughly 20-25psi can improve traction. Always balance grip with the risk of tyre rollover, overheating, or de-beading.

Is it better to drive fast or slow through mud?
Neither extreme works well. You need controlled momentum – enough speed to keep moving, but not so much that you lose control or damage the track. Excess wheelspin usually digs you in deeper.

Should I use 4WD high or low range in mud?
Low range is usually preferred for deeper or more technical mud as it helps maintain steady torque and control.

What’s the biggest mistake people make in mud?
Stopping momentum or overusing wheelspin. Both can quickly bog the vehicle. Poor line choice and failing to assess depth before entering are also common causes of recovery situations.

Can mud damage my 4WD?
Yes. Mud can damage paint, clog mechanical components, overheat brakes, and contaminate bearings or oils if it enters seals or breathers. It can also stress tyres and driveline components during recovery attempts.

Is it safe to use traction control in mud?
Yes, but it depends on the system. In some vehicles, traction control can help manage wheelspin. In deeper mud, however, it may reduce momentum, which is sometimes needed to keep moving.

What should I always carry for mud driving?
Essential recovery gear includes a shovel, recovery boards, rated recovery points, a snatch strap or kinetic rope (if travelling with others), tyre deflator and inflator, and a winch if fitted.

What’s the safest way to recover a stuck 4WD in mud?
Start with self-recovery: reverse out if possible, clear mud around tyres, and use recovery boards. If that fails, a controlled snatch recovery or properly rigged winch pull is next – always using rated gear and safe procedures.

How do I clean my vehicle after driving in mud?
Wash thoroughly as soon as possible, including the underbody, wheel arches, chassis rails, and engine bay (carefully). Dried mud is abrasive and can lead to corrosion and component wear if left untreated.

MORE Advice on all things 4×4!

When you spend weekends building, modifying and testing a 4×4, insurance stops being just a formality. 

For us here at 4X4 Australia, it’s part of the build, and part of being able to push vehicles hard without worrying about the financial fallout if something goes wrong.  Over the years we’ve run multiple project vehicles, each packed with the best modifications, accessories and touring gear available in Australia. Protecting these rigs isn’t as simple as ticking “comprehensive” on a standard car policy, and that’s why we’ve consistently used Club 4X4 Insurance.

Builds, modifications and real-world value

Our project vehicles never stay stock for long. They’re lifted, reinforced, packed with drawers, rooftop tents, bull bars, winches, lighting, and gear that makes them capable off-road. 

Club 4X4 allows us to insure modifications and accessories at agreed value, including installation costs. That clarity has meant that if a rig takes a hard hit on a track, we’re not left partially uncovered.

One of our most significant builds in recent years has been the 79 Series, a rig we chose not just for its legendary durability but also because it represents the pinnacle of what a modern 70 Series should be for tough touring and heavy use. This VDJ79 is one of the last V8 diesel 79s offered in Australia, and from the outset it’s been treated as a working project designed to be lived in and pushed hard off-road. 

From a Terrain Tamer suspension and GVM upgrade to carefully selected protection, recovery gear and touring accessories, every stage of this build has been about real-world capability, not showroom shine. To protect all of this investment – both the base vehicle and the modifications – we’ve relied on Club 4X4, which recognises aftermarket upgrades, off-road use and recovery costs. Having a policy that covers the full build allows us to test the LandCruiser in demanding environments with confidence, knowing both the vehicle and our work are fully insured.

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Off-road use and recovery

Off-road driving is treated as normal use. Whether it’s tracks, beaches, fire trails or remote touring routes, Club 4X4 recognises that 4x4s exist to go off the bitumen. 

Club 4X4 coverage applies wherever you’re legally allowed to drive in Australia. Combined with included off-road recovery cover, we can tackle soft sand, mud or creek crossings without fretting about unexpected costs. For rigs heavily loaded with gear and modifications, that support is invaluable.

Touring and personal gear are also covered. Fridges, camping equipment, recovery kits, and tools are part of the package for any serious project build. Club 4X4’s personal effects cover protects this equipment even when it isn’t bolted to the vehicle, giving an extra layer of security on extended trips. What Club 4X4 does exceptionally well is align its policies with how we actually build and drive our vehicles.

The takeaway for project builds

Across years of testing and touring, using Club 4X4 has meant our project vehicles are insured for real-world use: Modifications are valued correctly, off-road incidents are recognised, recovery is supported, and gear is protected. For builds like our 79 Series, that’s not just peace of mind, it’s a practical necessity. 

When you’re pushing rigs hard, living out of them, and testing the limits of what a modern 4×4 can do, having insurance that actually understands your vehicle and how you use it makes a big difference.

MORE Read more at Club 4×4

While I’m technically in the driver’s seat, what I’m doing can’t really be called sitting. 

With the Jeep nearly vertical, the steering wheel is directly below me and I’m pushing hard to keep my body off the dashboard and my back against the seat. I can barely see the tip of the bonnet; beyond it, walls of dirt and mud fill my vision. 

With only an inch or two on either side, my mirrors are folded in and all my concentration is focused on Josh – the only thing keeping me centred between the vertical mud walls. With my view completely blocked I have no choice but to trust his judgement. I’m gripping the winch controller in my right hand, desperately hoping to avoid the worst-case scenario of getting stuck vertically at the bottom of the mud trench.

While hanging helplessly on the edge, I can’t help thinking this is a really bad idea. But with no alternative I ease off the brakes, inching the Jeep over what is, for all intents and purposes, a cliff. At the point of no return gravity takes over, Kristy lets out a scream and Josh jumps backwards to avoid the wave of mud.

After days of intense four-wheel driving in remote Cape York, I’ve just dropped into Gunshot – probably Australia’s most infamous 4×4 obstacle.

Old Telegraph Track: Cape York’s iconic 4×4 route 

Cape York, in the far north-east of Australia, is one of the wildest and most remote corners of what is already a very wild and remote continent. 

During early settlement the extreme remoteness made outside communication almost impossible, so – in typical colonial fashion – an ambitious plan to build a telegraph line the length of Cape York was set in motion in 1883.

The thick, jungle-like rainforest and scrubland did not give in easily. The initial survey alone took two years, followed by another two years of hard manual labour during construction. The track was cut roughly two chains wide (about 40yd), and teams of men were assigned to maintain it – a herculean task after the monsoonal rains each season during the annual wet.

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The telegraph track remained the only way to access the far northern tip of Cape York for more than 100 years, until the Peninsula Development Road (PDR) was completed in 1986. At that point the original telegraph line was replaced by microwave transmission and later fibre optic.

For all intents and purposes the Old Tele is now abandoned and hasn’t seen any maintenance or trail repairs since 1986. The severely rutted and muddy track now stands as the mecca of remote technical four-wheel driving in Australia, and since COVID the route has been busier than ever. Tens of thousands of keen four-wheel drivers descend each year during the dry season, eager to put their vehicles and off-road driving skills to the test.

With countless deep river crossings, stunning waterfalls, mud holes, tree roots, rock shelves, soft sand and plenty of slippery climbs, the multi-day track really does have something for everyone. Although the Tele is only 170km long – tiny by Australian standards – it packs a punch, with almost every kilometre driven in low range. Simply reaching the end in one piece is an achievement to be proud of. Bonus points if you do it without drowning your vehicle.

Aussie 4×4 culture on the Old Tele 

It’s no secret that plenty of Aussies love four-wheel driving, and the Old Tele is akin to Graceland for many of them.

With sticky humidity even in the dry season, a well-stocked fridge is essential on the Tele – many seem to contain more beer than drinking water. From sunrise to sunset I rarely see anyone without a cold beer in hand, and the rate of consumption is impressive. Somehow, I’m still impressed that most people manage to stay on their feet.

Without a doubt these mad-keen Aussies are an incredible bunch. They’re always the first to jump in and offer help whenever the need arises – which it often does in these parts. A highlight of the Old Tele is watching other vehicles tackle each obstacle and, like any good sporting venue, the characters in the crowd are often as entertaining as the main event. Make no mistake – this is raw Aussie culture on show.

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Forming the Cape York convoy 

We’ve been exploring the remote tracks of Far North Queensland with an eclectic crew of people and vehicles from around the country who have affectionately dubbed us ‘The Americans’.

That’s partly because we’re driving a Jeep and partly because of Katie’s accent, which stands out like a sore thumb. For the record, Katie is Canadian – but nobody around here seems to know the difference. Josh and Georgie drive a heavily loaded Troopie, while Brad and Kristy pilot a modified TD42 Patrol. Josh has nerves of steel and isn’t afraid of monster wheel lifts or deep mud holes, while Brad and Kristy have a background in competitive 4×4 winch challenges. I bring the least to the table in terms of highly technical four-wheel driving, and I’m extremely happy to have their skills and experience on the team.

After just a few minutes on the track we arrive at Palm Creek, the first major obstacle. With a near-vertical entry and exit, Palm Creek is intimidating enough to make many would-be adventurers turn around before they’ve even begun. As Josh and I scout the line and spot each other down into the creek, we meet India and Luke – a young couple driving a well-worn 1995 HZJ75 LandCruiser. Happy for the company, they join us to round out our ragtag team of adventurers.

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Early lessons on the Old Tele 

It quickly becomes clear that the severity of any obstacle can be judged by the number of vehicle bumpers, mufflers, licence plates and pieces of plastic trim hanging from nearby trees.

It’s almost a rite of passage to leave anything that breaks off behind in a nearby tree, and on the most rutted climbs the trees seem to carry more plastic than leaves. Only an hour into the track Josh drops into a dark, murky mud hole that is so severely off-camber the big Cruiser nearly tips over.

Not wanting to push our luck, the rest of the convoy skirts the hole on the narrowest of bypass lines, happy to get through unscathed. While the heavy LandCruiser is prone to wheel lifts, it soon becomes clear that the Gladiator’s longer wheelbase – and far less weight on the roof – works to my advantage. The Jeep feels far more planted, easily articulating through the complex terrain.

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Different 4×4 setups, different driving styles 

All the vehicles in our convoy are set up differently, and each driver has their own unique driving style.

Watching and learning from each vehicle helps improve my own skills – sometimes showing what to do and sometimes what not to do. While the dramatic vertical entries of many river crossings and obstacles like Gunshot make for great photos, they don’t require a great deal of driving skill. With a good spotter it’s simply a matter of slow and steady, and almost any vehicle is capable of sliding to the bottom in a spray of mud. Getting up and out the other side, however, is a different story.

All the major river crossings have steep, rutted exits made wet and slippery by the convoy of vehicles before us. Lumps and holes in the deep tyre ruts test a vehicle’s articulation, and any vehicle without diff locks quickly becomes stuck with a wheel on each axle spinning helplessly in the air.

Brad in the GU Patrol is happiest using a very healthy dose of right foot, resulting in plenty of wheelspin and action. This makes for great spectating, and we all stand well back, never quite sure what will happen next. Driving the Old Tele is often a spectator sport, and we let out shrieks and cheers whatever the outcome.

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Luke in the old Cruiser is always keen for one more attempt, though his leaf springs and open diffs let him down on many occasions. The Cruiser usually only needs the smallest of winch pulls to get moving again, and we’re all impressed time and again by how well it keeps up with our newer and vastly more expensive vehicles.

Josh in the big Cruiser is a master at staying cool, and I’m always impressed watching him crawl through huge wheel lifts without a care in the world. He knows his vehicle and its limits extremely well and isn’t afraid to walk the line between success and a flop. On a few occasions we dash over to jump on the front bumper or side rails to make absolutely certain it won’t go over, and thankfully it never does.

For my part, I’m repeatedly impressed by how the big Gladiator performs on the technical climbs. With the Jeep in low-range first and both diff locks engaged, it walks to the top of the biggest obstacles on the Old Tele without lifting a wheel or even a tyre slipping. It does this so often – and makes everything look so easy – that Brad can’t help but nickname it ‘Gracie’, because it’s just so graceful.

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Unexpected natural beauty along the track 

While everyone flocks to the Old Tele for the four-wheel drive adventure, the natural wonders on and around the track are nothing short of breathtaking. The rivers flow crystal clear and, in the sticky heat and humidity, we jump in at every opportunity.

We’re deep in the northern tropics of Australia, which normally means swimming in any body of water is strictly off limits thanks to the huge population of saltwater crocodiles. The rivers on the Old Tele are a bit of an oddity, however, and for whatever reason no large crocs have been spotted here for years. Nobody else appears to be having problems, so we take that as good enough for us and jump right in.

Compared to the dusty scrubland around the track, Fruit Bat Falls is paradise. Crystal-clear Eliot Creek cascades over a large rock shelf to form a stunning swimming pool at the perfect temperature for a dip. Exploring around the falls I’m excited to discover a carnivorous pitcher plant. The sandy soil here is extremely poor in minerals, so these plants have adapted a clever method of getting what they need elsewhere – by eating flies and other insects.

Similar to a Venus flytrap, insects are lured into the pitcher by sweet nectar and can’t escape the slippery pit before being digested by enzymes within. While this isn’t the best outcome for the flies, the number of plants scattered around the area shows the strategy works very well.

MORE Crocodile safety for 4WD touring in Australia – How to avoid croc attacks
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Another 20 minutes north we spend hours swimming at the equally stunning Eliot and Twin Falls. Scattered across a few hundred metres are swimming holes, waterfalls, canyons and rock formations. There’s enough current to be swept gently through the features, while the surrounding rocks provide great entertainment in the form of cliff jumping. After a couple of days on the track, I’m confident sitting under a waterfall counts as a shower.

In places the dense jungle gives way to dry, dusty scrubland and as we move further north we encounter enormous termite mounds. These towering dirt columns are often taller than me and are built by billions of termites to keep their colony safely above the seasonal monsoon rains, when more than 2500mm can fall in just a few months. The architecture of these mounds has been studied for decades.

They’re carefully oriented to the points of the compass to maximise cooling in the breeze while minimising heat from the sun. Across northern Australia termites build nests in a variety of designs, each perfectly adapted to the local environment. Every mound is intricate and unique, with an interior resembling a honeycomb lattice that houses the ingenious termites.

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Iconic Old Tele 4×4 obstacles 

The Old Tele contains some of Australia’s most infamous 4×4 obstacles, many with memorable names like Mistake Creek, Gunshot and Cockatoo Creek.

Each one is different, and I always get a shot of adrenaline as I park the Jeep and jump out to scout the line with our crew. Each year the track changes slightly thanks to the massive water flow during the wet season, so you never quite know what you’re going to get.

The Sydney Harbour Bridge is undoubtedly Australia’s most famous bridge, though the abomination at Cypress Creek is probably photographed just as often. The haphazard log bridge has to be seen to be believed, and even walking across it feels like a bad idea. It’s rebuilt each year from whatever logs and ratchet straps can be found lying around, and Josh is quick to point out that none of the logs are long enough to span the entire gap – a very unnerving thought. The Gladiator is more than a tonne lighter than Josh’s Cruiser, so I’m more than happy to let him go first.

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We fall into a steady routine as we scout each obstacle and work together to get through. Afterwards we jump in for a swim and watch the next group tackle the challenge, quietly hoping for some excitement. Each obstacle presents its own challenges, and I find myself exhausted at the end of each day from concentrating on rock ledges, holes and off-camber sections of track. With such a well-equipped team we encounter no major problems, only rarely using Maxtrax or a winch line to prevent panel damage on the towering mud walls.

Our sense of achievement after clearing each obstacle is real, and we let off steam in the evenings playing on rope swings and reliving the day around the campfire. It’s easy to see why people return year after year, stretching the track from four days into two weeks of spectating, swimming and lapping the bigger obstacles.

Nolan’s Creek final crossing carnage 

The final river crossing on the Tele is probably responsible for more drowned 4x4s than any other river in Australia.

Deceptively, neither the entry nor the exit of Nolan’s Creek looks particularly steep or difficult, and thankfully we’re warned it’s the sandy bottom that catches people out. Even a well-equipped 4×4 will see water lapping over the bonnet, which is deep enough to induce panic. With exhaustion setting in after days on the track and the end literally in sight, extra throttle can seem like the safest option.

Unfortunately for the uninitiated, the sandy bottom combined with the flowing water behaves like quicksand, and just a hint of wheelspin will quickly sink a heavy 4×4. Even experienced drivers are tempted to add more throttle, and the resulting feedback loop often ensures a lengthy stay in deep water.

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Arriving at Nolan’s right on sunset, we decide it’s wise to make camp for the night. In the morning we’ve barely put the coffee on to boil before the viewing gallery begins forming on the far bank. With a reputation for providing plenty of carnage and drowned vehicles, locals and travellers drive off the PDR to Nolan’s Creek, setting up deck chairs and coolers of beer just to watch. On a busy day upwards of 50 vehicles will cross while dozens of people in the peanut gallery cheer and offer suggestions. By the time we’re ready to cross, the pressure is palpable.

The old Cruiser is the lowest and least capable vehicle in our convoy, and it needs a little TLC. After adding silicone to the broken snorkel we also throw a tarp over the front of the bonnet – extra insurance to keep river water out of the engine. With thoughts of quicksand in mind I lead our team across, concentrating on driving smoothly while maintaining momentum. With the Jeep set up as a quick recovery vehicle, I keep a close eye as each vehicle in our convoy fords the flowing river without incident.

I park high on the bank and walk back to join the peanut gallery, hoping to witness some carnage. With such a big crowd the temptation to put on a show proves too much, and in just 15 minutes I watch three separate vehicles become helplessly stuck in the deep water. Just as predicted, any amount of throttle only makes the problem worse, and without a vehicle ready to provide a quick pull one LandCruiser sits with water lapping over the bonnet for a solid 4 minutes while the owner waves frantically. When it finally reaches dry land, a cascade of water pours from each door – though thankfully the engine continues to idle, highlighting the value of a quality snorkel.

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Why the Old Telegraph Track stands out 

I’ve spent years overlanding around the world on my own, with the unspoken goal of getting as far from people as possible.

Seeing myself as some kind of lone-wolf Indiana Jones, I set out solo along the Pan-American Highway and later circumnavigated Africa. Without a support vehicle, border helpers or even any friends, I was a one-man expedition. I had to rely on my own wit and skill to tackle each new challenge, and I thoroughly enjoyed the intense feeling of self-reliance. Solo adventures are often very serious and, looking back, there’s almost never much laughing.

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Never before have I driven a track as social as the Old Tele, and it was an absolute riot. Even when the going got tough or stressful, we worked together to think things through, make a plan and keep moving forward without any vehicle damage or terrifying moments. Of course there were plenty of pranks along the way, and having someone yell ‘STOP’ as you drive over a sketchy log bridge is a surefire adrenaline spike. Circling the wagons each night around the communal campfire was the perfect way to relive the day’s adventures, laugh and celebrate our triumphs. The memories are so strong I honestly can’t imagine what the Tele would be like solo.

There was a constant stream of vehicles and people all around us, and seeing familiar faces at each obstacle became both reassuring and entertaining. Each group had different levels of sunburn and alcohol consumption and, while I wouldn’t want to join all of them, everyone finished the track – and everyone was grinning like mad at the shared sense of achievement.

Waiting for the ferry to cross the mighty Jardine River later that afternoon, there was one common sentiment among all the various groups:

I cannot wait to come back!

MORE Queensland travel yarns!

Some of you might remember Murray Brooks’ super-neat, cherry-red extra-cab GU Patrol we featured a few years back. It’s one of the best and most well set-up old-school Patrols in recent memory.

With a booming business designing and fabricating trays and canopies at Trig Point, and a growing family, the old GU just wasn’t going to service Murray’s future needs. 

“I was looking for a car with similar capability as the Patrol, yet more seats and space,” Murray told us. “I considered building a dual cab version of the Patrol, yet time was tight and tidy 4,8 patrols were getting harder to find. We considered a 79 dual cab, yet as a business display vehicle they are very common and can be a lot of work to set up as a comfortable tourer. I also looked at everything from ute converted 200 series to American trucks.”

Casting his engineer’s eye over all the available options, Murray eventually settled on the then-new Ineos Quartermaster.

“It is large enough for family touring, yet small enough to still fit comfortably down High Country tracks,” said Murray. “I also really admired Ineos’ goals of bringing back some of the capability and durability which has been lost from some modern 4x4s.”

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Why the Quartermaster Trialmaster was chosen

Murray chose his Quartermaster in Trialmaster specification, as it comes with much of the off-road hardware he wanted in a family 4×4.

“Live axles, factory diff locks, snorkel and coil springs all round. They (Ineos) have partnered with great manufacturers from BMW to Recaro and Magna Steyr to put together a unique vehicle,” Murray says.

He chose the diesel option of the BMW inline six-cylinder engine, which is vastly different to the 4.8-litre inline six in his old Patrol. Backed by an automatic transmission and dual-range transfer case, the driveline didn’t require any modifications for the style of off-road touring that Murray enjoys.

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Bespoke canopy

Of course, the Quartermaster was going to serve as Trig Point’s development mule for its products and, while Murray was at work designing on the computer, the ute got by with a cut-down Toyota tray on the back.

“With such a unique shape to the vehicle, we had to develop a new canopy size to suit it,” recalled Murray. “Ineos has a unique way of doing everything from tray mounts to lights.”

This made it a significant job and investment for Trig Point, especially when you consider the size of the Ineos market compared to other utes on sale. The size and shape of the vehicle also required extra attention, with a larger-than-usual design.

“We settled on a 1790 tray base, which is longer than our standard 1700 dual-cab size, and a much more upright stance to match the Ineos cabin,” Murray told us. “We went with a 1550mm tray-mounted canopy on this.”

MORE Living with the Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster: Long-term review
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Inside the canopy is a showcase of Trig Point’s clever workmanship. There’s a trig Point fold-out kitchen with wash basin, Travel Buddy oven, fold down table and extra storage space.

The Trialmaster runs a dual-battery system as standard, but Murray has added a third battery in the canopy to power the inverter and accessories. This is a 200Ah Invicta Xero lithium unit charged via a 50A Redarc DC-DC charger and feeding a Redarc 2000W inverter.

While the passenger’s side of the canopy is taken up by the Bushman fridge and kitchen setup, the driver’s side is left with more space for carrying additional gear when needed.

Underslung toolboxes house the ARB air compressor and hoses, while a trundle drawer at the rear provides additional secure storage. As you’d expect from the owner of Trig Point’s personal four-wheel drive, the canopy is a well thought-out and comprehensive setup. A pair of jerrycan holders are mounted to the rear of the canopy alongside a spare wheel and tyre, while a 50-litre water tank is mounted underneath and fed to the tap via an electric pump.

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The rest of the build

The canopy for the Ineos was second nature to Murray and the team at Trig Point, but there’s plenty more involved in creating a competent off-road family tourer.

While Ineos delivers a solid base to build on, and the standard locking differentials and dual-battery system help, there’s always more to be done. A set of 35×10.5 Kenda mud-terrain tyres were fitted to the stock Ineos steel wheels, giving the vehicle that tall-and-skinny look. Underneath, Murray opted for a set of 50mm taller Dobinsons coils and Fox Racing 2.0 shocks.

There are very limited choices for bullbars and protection equipment available for Ineos vehicles, so protecting Murray’s Quartermaster came after working with local suppliers and designing and making his own. The bull bar is a Toro bar from local manufacturer Offroad Animal but it was modified to accommodate the Warn 8274 high-mount winch. 

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“The factory winch option on the Ineos only has 10m of usable rope, which really isn’t enough,” said Murray. “With the high-mount winch I get 45m-plus of usable rope and a nice fast line speed.”

More custom fabrication was needed when looking for side steps and sliders for the vehicle, and this was done in-house at Trig Point.

“We haven’t done side steps before, so we developed these simply because we couldn’t get anything we liked. They ended up being a great combination of steel and alloy – as strong as a rock slider, yet as light as a protection step.”

Build summary

There’s more custom fabrication from Trig Point up on top of the vehicle. 

With the bullbar modified to accommodate the high-mount winch, it limited the space available for mounting driving lights, so Murray went to the roof where he designed and fabricated a housing for nine Stedi Evo Mini driving lights. Stedi Micro-Touch work lights are used down the sides, and they are all wired in using the pre-wiring included in the Ineos and the switches in the roof console.

The challenges of building a relatively new vehicle, and the limited products available for it, were partly overcome by having a world-class manufacturing team to assist with the build. Murray’s forethought and expertise have allowed him to create a vehicle that ticks all the boxes for family adventures while also showcasing the excellent work done at Trig Point.

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All accessories and modifications

MORE Grenadier news and reviews!