If you’re the type who’s got a screw loose and lives for a wild adventure – first of all, hi, and welcome to Lunatics Anonymous. Secondly, you’re probably just the sort of person who’d be tempted to try snow camping.

But before you go chasing sub-zero thrills, it’s worth knowing what you’re getting into. Four-wheel driving and camping in snow isn’t your average weekend away – it’s next-level stuff. And if you get it wrong, it can go bad fast.

So here are eight things you need to know before heading into the white stuff – because fun should never come at the cost of being unprepared.

JUMP AHEAD

• Prep your 4×4 for cold weather
• Traction tips: Snow and ice
• Managing cold and wind chill
• Snow camping hack: Use an umbrella
• Avoid falling trees and branches
• Keep gear dry in wet conditions
• Protect your feet from snow
• Dealing with heavy snow loads

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Prep your 4×4 for cold weather

Planning a night out in sub-zero temps? It’s not just you that needs to be ready – your 4×4 needs to be prepped for cold weather, too.

If you’re running a diesel, you’ve probably heard of alpine diesel – it’s treated with anti-gel additives to stop it waxing up in freezing conditions. You won’t find it at your local servo, so fill up in the alpine towns before heading up. Also for diesel owners: check your glow plugs. If they’re already sluggish on cold mornings, they’ll struggle even more when it’s below zero.

For both petrol and diesel rigs, battery health is critical. A tired battery can leave you stranded come morning, and keep in mind that lithium batteries don’t like charging below freezing either.

And don’t forget your cooling system. It sounds odd, but if your coolant mix isn’t right, it could freeze. A faulty thermostat can also stop the engine reaching operating temp – and if that happens, your heater is not going to work. That’s a dealbreaker in snow country.

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Traction tips: Snow and ice

Yeah, it’s obvious – snow is wet and slippery. But what might catch you out is just how slippery it can get, especially once a few vehicles have been through and compacted the surface. That’s when snow turns to ice – and ice makes clay look grippy.

Even basic tracks can get sketchy, and if the trail drops away on one side, sliding sideways becomes a very real possibility. Air down lower than you normally would for dirt driving – you’ll need every bit of traction you can get. If you’ve got a bit of maniac in you and feel like tackling something steeper, remember: snow doesn’t run off like rain. It sits, seeps and soaks. Tracks that are just a bit slick in the wet can turn into proper winch-fests in snow.

Personally, spending a day buried up to the knees in snow, hanging off a winch rope to drive a track that’s normally easy? Not high on the list – unless it leads to a snow camp with a view. But hey, if your winch is begging for punishment, knock yourself out.

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Managing cold and wind chill

Yep, another obvious one – but cold in the snow isn’t just about the temperature reading. If you’re chasing snow, you’re also chasing altitude, and with elevation comes more wind.

In fact, snow camps can sometimes be warmer than clear-sky winter camps at the same time of year, thanks to cloud cover. But – and it’s a big but – wind chill can be brutal. Some nights I’ve had to bail from exposed ridgelines and drop into lower gullies just to get out of the breeze.

When you’re checking the weather, don’t just glance at the min/max. Look at the forecast snow level. If snow is predicted to fall to 1,000m, chances are you’ll get a light dusting at best. But climb another 100–200m and you could be pitching your tent in fresh powder instead of wet mud. Elevation matters.

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Snow camping hack: Use an umbrella

This one was a happy accident – but it’s now one of our favourite snow camping hacks.

As much as we love snow, sometimes it’s nice to get out of the wet, especially when you’re parked around the big fire you’ll need to stay warm.

A simple umbrella will keep snow off your shoulders and your camp chair, but the real bonus? It traps heat rising from the fire and reflects it back down toward you. It’s like a mini heat dome. Don’t bring your best umbrella, though – wayward sparks will likely leave a few pinholes. Grab a cheapie from your local sausage sandwich hardware store.

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Avoid falling trees and branches

This one gets a bit hairy – especially when you’re zipped into your swag at 2am and hear the crash of a tree giving way.

Gum trees already have a reputation for dropping limbs without warning. Add a heavy snow load and wet ground, and now they’ve got a reason. Expect trees to come down regularly – and randomly – during and after snowfall.

Be smart about where you camp and park. Avoid standing dead timber and overloaded branches. And don’t hit the snow without a chainsaw and spare fuel or batteries (depending on how high-tech you’ve gone). Chances are good you’ll need to clear at least one tree off the track.

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Keep gear dry in wet conditions

Firewood? Wet. The ground? Wet. Your clothes, boots, and swag? Probably wet too.

Collecting firewood in the snow is a pain – most of it is soaked through and nothing dries in sub-zero temps. If you can, bring a stash of dry wood from home. If not, a battery-powered blower is a brilliant tool to coax damp timber into burning.

Unless you’ve got top-end snow gear, your clothes will get damp one way or another, so bring spares. And be prepared to pack up a wet awning, wet swag, and wet tent – because in the high country, nothing dries out during the day. We recommend packing a couple of old towels to wipe gear down, and maybe a tarp or two to wrap up wet kit.

And if you’re happy to ‘cheat’, a 12V electric blanket is worth its weight in gold – because there’s nothing worse than crawling into a soggy swag at the end of a freezing day.

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Protect your feet from snow

This deserves its own mention – because once your feet are wet, you’re miserable.

A few inches of snow might not seem like much, but after a full day trudging around camp, your regular work boots will soak through. Even proper snow boots can let water in over the top if the snow’s deep enough. Gumboots? They’ll keep you dry, but they’re not warm.

If you don’t have waterproof snow boots, the best solution is simple: bring extra socks and a spare pair of shoes. After each day, dry your wet gear around the fire and rotate your footwear. It’s not glamorous, but warm, dry feet make snow camping a whole lot more enjoyable.

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Dealing with heavy snow loads

Unlike rain, snow doesn’t run off shallow angles – it accumulates. Fast. And once it starts piling up on your awning, tent or rooftop setup, the weight adds up quickly.

Poles bend. Canvas stretches. Last camp my hard shell roof top tent started to close on me under the weight of snow. You have a couple of options to get around this here:

• Get up through the night and brush the snow off – a broom works a treat.
• Pitch your awning at a steep angle – we’re talking near vertical here – to stop it collecting. This is not possible with the 270° A-frame awnings that are popular these days.
• Or go the old swag on the ground or on a stretcher out in the open. You can throw a tarp over the top to keep dry but snow will still accumulate, so give it a couple of whacks throughout the night to knock the snow off.

Snow camping isn’t something we get to do often in Australia, but when conditions line up, it’s an unforgettable experience. It’s wet, it’s cold and it’s incredibly rewarding. Driving bush tracks through fresh powder is a rare privilege and with a bit of preparation, something that can be done relatively safely. 

If you’re camping above the snowline or anywhere in Australia’s alpine regions, having the right gear is essential.

Even in summer, the weather at altitude can shift fast, with rogue snow flurries not unheard of in December or January. You might start your trek or fourby adventure in warm sunny conditions, but at altitude the weather can change quickly with icy winds, plummeting temps and driving rain just hours later.

To stay safe and comfortable when the weather turns foul, you need a shelter that’s rated for four-seasons use. A four-season tent is designed to withstand strong winds and snowfall, protecting those inside. 

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Mont Adventure Equipment’s Supercell is a tunnel-style tent built for serious conditions. When it comes to lightweight shelters you can carry in a backpack, strap to a bike or stash in the back of the fourby, most fall into two categories: dome or tunnel. Each design has its strengths, but in our experience, dome tents – especially the cheap ones – can collapse when the wind really picks up.

Tunnel tents are typically longer and narrower than domes, which means you can pitch them with a smaller profile into the wind – offering better resistance in blustery conditions. They also tend to offer a bit more internal headroom, making it easier to sit upright inside. The curved, streamlined shape sheds snow more effectively too, helping prevent it from building up on the roof.

We opted for the EX version of the Mont Supercell, which adds a generously sized vestibule at one end – separate from the sleeping area. Unlike the standard model, which uses two poles, the EX uses three to support the extended space. While the sleeping quarters are identical in both versions, that extra vestibule is proving to be well worth it, offering around a square metre of extra room for storing gear or even sitting down for a meal out of the weather.

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The vestibule features a side entry for easy access to the main tent, and when paired with the optional Footprint groundsheet, it also provides full ground coverage.

The Supercell is a two-person tent with ample space for a pair of adults. With an internal height of 1100mm, there’s enough room to sit upright and move around comfortably. It’s also an integral-pitch design, meaning the outer fly is attached to the inner tent – making setup quicker and easier, especially when the wind’s howling. The fly and inner can be separated if needed, whether for cleaning or using one on its own in milder conditions.

Setting up the Supercell EX

Start by laying down the Supercell EX Footprint groundsheet, then roll the tent out on top – making sure to align the correct ends.

From there, it’s a simple job of sliding the three aluminium poles into place, tensioning them into bows, and pegging everything down using the supplied ultralight pegs (just 1g each). Don’t forget to stake out the guy ropes – this not only secures the tent but also helps tension the fabric for better weather protection and less flapping in the wind. We’ve only pitched it twice so far, but it’s a process that we will no doubt refine over time.

We haven’t had a chance to test the Supercell in snow just yet, but we did cop plenty of wind and rain, and we stayed warm and dry throughout. The vestibule proved its worth too, giving us easy access to gear and a dry, usable space thanks to the added ground cover from the Footprint sheet.

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Lightweight and easy to pack

The Mont Supercell is just as suited to hiking as it is to car camping. Packed down into its pouch, the tent body fits easily in one hand, while the pole and peg sleeve straps neatly to the side. Weighing in at just 3130g, it’s light enough to carry in a backpack, with the Footprint adding another 510g.

The Footprint groundsheet is made from tough 70-denier PU-coated nylon with a 5000mm waterhead rating. As well as providing coverage in the vestibule, it protects the tent floor from wear and tear, adding an extra layer between you and the ground to help extend the life of your tent.

The Supercell is built with premium materials to handle tough conditions. The tent floor uses 25,000mm WaterBlock nylon for serious waterproofing, while the outer fly is made from 40-denier ripstop PU-coated nylon with a 2000mm waterhead rating. The inner tent features a 20-denier ripstop upper and a 40-denier laminated nylon floor. It’s all quality kit, designed to handle harsh environments and deliver years of reliable use with proper care and maintenance.

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Verdict

The Mont Supercell four-season tent goes well beyond the needs of most 4×4 travellers – but when your adventures take you into wild weather, whether by vehicle, bike or on foot, it’s reassuring to know you’ve got a shelter that’s built to handle it.

RRP: $119.95 (Mont Super Cell EX); $99.95 (Mont Supercell EX Footprint)

Back in the 1980s, when I first started exploring on- and off-road, halogen lights were the go-to driving light for most 4WDers.

They came in two flavours – round or rectangular – and if you wanted more punch, you’d swap in a higher wattage bulb and hope it didn’t melt the housing. I used to carry spare bulbs for roadside changes on corrugated tracks and to improve vision I even tried to add extra lights on to an already crowded bull bar. At one point, I even tried shifting my seat forward for a better view down the track – it didn’t help.

All that is little more than a memory now. Technology has massively improved our after-dark driving. Brightness, beam distance and spread, longevity, sizes, shapes and even colours – there’s something to satisfy even the fussiest 4×4 owner.

JUMP AHEAD

• LED advantages
• LED limitations
• Testing method
• Key terms and specs
• Key features of a good light
• The testing track set-up
• Driving light line-up
• Verdict: All of the winners

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LED advantages

LED driving lights remain one of the best light sources for driving beyond urban areas. They can cast a long, wide beam that suits virtually any driving condition.

LEDs also excel in drawing less current, require no warm-up time, and have a long service life. Their ability to deliver strong spread both horizontally and vertically enhances visibility in tough terrain or at speed. Add waterproofing, vibration resistance and overall durability, and it’s easy to see why LEDs are the top choice for today’s 4×4 lighting upgrades.

LED limitations

While LED driving lights have come a long way, they still don’t match the more eye-friendly CRI (colour rendering index) of traditional halogen lighting.

However, with ongoing advances in LED tech and optical design, it’s likely just a matter of time before they close the gap and offer better image quality across the full colour spectrum. That lower CRI can be problematic for human vision. It reduces detail in darker colours – especially browns and reds – which isn’t ideal given that most animals involved in night-time road incidents fall within those shades. It’s a real-world limitation worth noting if you regularly travel in roo country.

Sign reflection is another issue. LED lights can throw harsh glare back off roadside signage – but in fairness, so do high-output halogen and HID setups. It’s not exclusive to LEDs, and there’s no real way around it.

Lastly, LEDs often return less natural contrast than halogens. It’s a subtle difference, but one you can replicate in a photo editor: reduce contrast and tweak exposure or colour temperature, and you’ll quickly see how shadows and darker hues can lose definition. On the track, that can mean missing visual cues you’d otherwise spot with warmer lighting.

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Testing method

To give each manufacturer a level playing field, every driving light was mounted at the same height and position on a bull bar and wired directly to the vehicle’s battery using a custom-made loom.

The loom included fusing and switching for safety, and allowed controlled on/off operation with the engine running during each test. The vehicle’s standard lights were fully covered and never visible in testing or photography. Each image shows the output from a single light only — so in a dual-light setup, expect roughly double the visible spread and distance.

All photos were taken from the same camera position — on the roof of the 4×4 — using fixed manual settings to ensure a consistent result. Wide-angle images were captured to show beam spread and foreground illumination, while tighter frames zoomed in on the road’s furthest reaches to highlight long-distance penetration.

With the exception of individual plugs and a couple of inches’ difference in wiring length, everything else was identical across the board. This test aims to offer as close to a real-world comparison as possible — giving you a true sense of the difference between a good light and a brilliant one.

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Key terms and specs

Lux is the international unit of luminance (brightness), defined as the amount of light falling on a one-square-metre surface from a uniform source one metre away.

The higher the Lux, the brighter the light on the subject. Lumen, more commonly quoted by manufacturers, refers to the total amount of light generated by the source. For example, a 10,000-lumen light might deliver 500 Lux at 20 metres, but drop to 10 Lux at 600 metres.

Raw Lumens refers to the theoretical brightness output of an LED chip under controlled laboratory conditions, while Effective (or Actual) Lumens is the real-world output after the chip is installed in a housing, covered with a lens, and subjected to losses through the wiring loom, heat management, and optical efficiency.

Generally, high-powered LED driving lights have three key factors that cause the effective output to differ from the raw output: thermal efficiency (the hotter the LED runs, the less light it produces), electrical efficiency (how well the wiring loom delivers consistent power), and optic efficiency (the amount of light lost through covers, lenses and reflectors).

Kelvin is a temperature scale used to measure the colour of light. Lower temperatures produce a more yellow light, while higher temperatures create a bluer appearance. LED driving lights typically fall between 5000 and 6000K. It’s important to note that Kelvin rating refers to colour, not brightness.

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The widely quoted 50,000-hour lifespan of LED driving lights comes from the LED manufacturers themselves, not the companies producing the light units. Lighting engineers have gathered data showing that an LED will typically last at least 50,000 hours while still delivering 70 per cent of its original brightness – or a 30 per cent drop in output – even though the LED itself rarely fails completely. 

Although high-powered LEDs don’t generate a huge amount of heat, they are prone to light degradation when exposed to sustained operating temperatures of just 30 to 40°C. That’s why almost all high-output LED driving lights incorporate numerous fins, flutes or heat sinks to help dissipate heat and maintain performance.

When it comes to dissipating heat via heat sinks – essentially just an efficient way to increase surface area and let heat soak away – the other key factor is the use of aluminium housings. Aluminium conducts heat far better than plastic, which is why almost all high-powered LED driving lights are built with aluminium casings, either cast or extruded.

When it comes to a light being water- and dust-proof, IP ratings are fairly straightforward. The letters ‘IP’ stand for ‘Ingress Protection’ (or sometimes ‘International Protection’), and the two digits that follow represent different types of protection. The first digit, ranging from 0 to 6, indicates protection against solid objects like dust, sand or rocks – with 6 being the highest rating. The second digit, from 0 to 9, represents protection against water ingress, with higher numbers indicating a light’s ability to withstand deeper or longer submersion.

Here are the top eight IP ratings commonly seen on lighting and electrical gear used by four-wheel drivers and campers:

Key features of a good light

There’s always going to be personal preference involved, and plenty of people will disagree on what makes a “good” driving light. For me, there are three key requirements.

First, the light needs to throw a broad, uninterrupted beam with no shadows or beam imperfections over the first 200m. This wide coverage should clearly illuminate the roadside to spot animals thinking of darting out, and help highlight track or road conditions. Second, it must offer a solid mid-range beam that pushes out to 500 metres with consistent Lux – not just in the centre but out wide too – to ensure I can pick up hazards and read the terrain. And lastly, I want a high-intensity spot beam that reaches beyond 500m and ideally out to 1000m, giving me the ability to scan far ahead when conditions allow. 

This last point is where many manufacturers, retailers and keyboard experts will argue that you need to see over a kilometre ahead. But anyone who’s ever actually paced out a true 1000 metres – rather than just estimating – knows that’s a seriously long way. In reality, there aren’t many roads that straight, flat and unobstructed for that distance. Sure, they do exist… but if your eyes are focused that far ahead, I’d argue you’re probably missing more important details in the range you’d actually need to stop in an emergency.

As an example, our test road measured 1200m in length and featured a large reflective signpost positioned dead centre. From that distance, it’s not immediately clear how big the sign actually is – and with some lights, it’s barely visible at all. But that lack of definition doesn’t actually detract from the overall performance or brightness of the driving lights being tested.

Now consider this: science tells us that at 100km/h, the average driver takes around 42m just to react and hit the brakes. After that, it takes another 56m to stop on a dry surface — or up to 80m if the road’s wet. Sure, there are plenty of variables that influence those numbers — reaction time, fatigue, tyres, load, road conditions — so let’s double that worst-case 122m figure to 244m. In fact, let’s triple it to be safe: 366m. 

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For those lights that only cast a narrow pencil beam out to 1000m or more, I say it’s a waste of light — unless you’re in a motorsport event and have at least four lights fitted to cover the width as well. Just think about how much crucial road information you’re missing in the short to mid-range distances, as that narrow beam dances around like Darth Vader’s lightsaber every time the road dips or turns. Sure, it might impress your mates or help in search and rescue scenarios, but for real-world touring, it’s of limited practical use.

Quality wiring looms, sturdy fitting hardware, ease of installation and adjustment, resistance to vibration on long corrugated tracks, light colour temperature, lens clarity, physical fitment to your vehicle and bullbar, and of course, price – all factor in when deciding where to spend your hard-earned on such a vital aftermarket accessory.

Lastly, consider how and where you plan to use your lights. If you spend most of your time barrelling along the Nullarbor, tackling steep, narrow climbs in the Victorian High Country, or powering through beaches and coastal salt spray, that should influence your choice of light style and beam pattern. For me – and for most drivers – it’s likely I’ll encounter all of the above and more each year, so settling on a good-quality compromise is essential.

You should also consider light temperature. A Kelvin rating that’s too high, combined with a less-than-ideal CRI (colour rendering index), can result in unnatural light output that makes it harder to distinguish certain colours – especially browns and other earthy tones. That’s not ideal when most of our native wildlife happens to be those very colours. It’s a whole topic in itself, and one worth revisiting another time.

The wiring loom — including wire gauge, plugs and associated components — can make or break a great light’s performance. The correct wire diameter is essential to deliver consistent power, while the plugs play a key role in waterproofing. The connector at the light body helps seal out dust and moisture from both the loom and, potentially, the light housing itself. Forget the DIY approach from the good ol’ days — buy a proper loom with your lights and save yourself the hassle. 

The testing track set-up

We used a rural bitumen road with no street lighting, although it did have reflective roadside markers. These were temporarily covered during photography.

I placed my own reflective markers at 200m increments along the test track, which measured 1.2km in total. If you look closely at the photos, you’ll spot these markers on the right-hand side of the road. At the far end of the road is a larger reflector — the signpost marking the T-intersection at the road’s end.

The trees lining the right-hand side of the bitumen are set back an average of 2m from the road’s edge – the perfect hiding spot for roos and other wildlife poised for a last-second kamikaze bound into the path of oncoming vehicles.

On the left-hand side, varying-height grass — up to about a metre tall — sits close to the bitumen. While this does block some of the light at close range and narrows the beam pattern slightly, it represents a realistic driving scenario. The grass extends about 10 metres from the road, where a star picket and wire fence runs parallel and is visible in some photos taken with lights that offer a broader spread. A further five metres beyond the fence lies a line of trees, only illuminated by the widest beam patterns.

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To add another dimension to the test, there’s an overhanging tree branch positioned just 50 metres in front of the lights. Some driving lights pick up this branch clearly, while others leave it cloaked in darkness. Some might argue that any light cast that high is wasted or scattered and of little practical use. I disagree – in off-road scenarios with steep climbs, undulations or uneven terrain, that extra vertical spread can momentarily illuminate the track ahead, making it a genuine asset in the right conditions.

Each light was tested individually and mounted on a custom, fully adjustable bracket fixed to my bullbar, replicating real-life height and positioning. Keep in mind, all photos show the performance of a single light — fitting a matched pair on your 4×4 will effectively double the output. My HiLux’s standard headlights were covered during testing to prevent any interference, ensuring the images reflect only the performance of the driving light under test. Of course, when used in the real world with your vehicle’s headlights uncovered, you’ll get a touch more illumination in the immediate roadside zone — but any quality aftermarket driving light will still leave the factory units in the dust.

Driving light line-up

We’ve gathered the top names in aftermarket driving lights, measuring 200mm diameter (or thereabouts), all of which are LED-style lights. Given that LED (Light Emitting Diodes) is the most popular aftermarket choice for most 4x4ers, we’ve not included halogen or HID in this comparison. In no particular order, other than alphabetical. Read on.

Bushranger NightHawk VLI

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The Bushranger Night Hawk VLI (Variable Light Intensity) exudes quality in both design and performance. It’s a hefty unit with a distinctive 10-sided body and integrated flow-through cooling ducts that provide effective heat dissipation while adding to its rugged appearance. With eight selectable intensity settings, the VLI lets you tailor the beam output to suit varying driving conditions — from a soft glow on rural backroads to full-bore illumination when visibility matters most.

An excellent, concentrated spot beam gives the Night Hawk VLI serious long-distance punch, while its short-to-mid-range spread is impressively even and free of shadows or artefacts — making it a strong standalone performer. Clip on the spread beam cover and the light transforms, casting a wide, balanced beam that excels at closer ranges. While this does slightly compromise long-range intensity, pairing two units — one in spot configuration, the other in spread — delivers the best of both worlds and a highly effective all-round lighting setup.

A triple-bolt bullbar mounting system, combined with dual vertical alignment bolts per side, should ensure the light remains securely mounted and stable – even on the roughest corrugated tracks.

Notably, we didn’t have the 8-stage VLI function connected during testing. Instead, our custom wiring loom delivered full power to the light, allowing it to operate at maximum output and showcase its full potential.

Looking at the test photo (noting it’s without the spread reflector), the beam is noticeably narrower than many other lights – as expected – which is also evident in the partial illumination of the overhanging branch. That said, the brightness and evenness of the light are superb. 

Given the lower price compared to some of the big-name brands, these Bushranger VLI lights pack plenty of punch and deserve a place at the top of your shopping list.

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Ignite Laser 

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Combining dual beams at eight and 10 degrees, the Ignite Laser uses 22 x 6W high-intensity LP LEDs and a single 20W high-intensity Osram Laser LED to deliver a powerful and reasonably wide beam – especially impressive at this price point. Given these are the second cheapest lights on test, their performance is remarkable.

That said, there are a few design compromises worth noting. The light body has fewer cooling fins, and the simplified mounting bracket lacks the engineered reinforcements seen in more premium offerings that help reduce vibration on corrugated roads. However, triple bolt mounting is possible, which should help with stability, and dual vertical bolts provide for height adjustment. While the fin count is lower, the tapered design may still offer sufficient cooling due to the relatively lower power output compared to some of the others.

Looking at the test photo, there are a few slightly duller sections on the right-hand side of the beam, but the large-diameter, long-distance spot is clearly defined, and the overhanging branch is well illuminated. This is a simple light, free from fancy extras, yet it performs well above its price point – an impressive formula for an affordable and effective driving light.

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Ironman 4×4 Scope 

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The Ironman 4×4 Scope lights come as a pair. A spot beam focuses on long-range visibility, while the combo beam (which we photographed) spreads light wider. The combo beam was the version tested here, and it impressed with its excellent balance of long-range throw and lateral spread. A closer inspection reveals the differing deep-dish reflector designs that tailor each beam without relying on clip-on filters or external diffusers – it’s all integrated into the engineering. Despite being the ‘spread’ version, the combo light still punched well down the road while illuminating a broad area around the vehicle.

Those reflectors are notably deeper and wider in diameter than traditional units and use fewer LEDs overall. This design is said to reduce both heat output and power consumption while maintaining impressive lighting performance. The reduced current draw is a bonus, particularly for those concerned with electrical load, and the light’s performance doesn’t seem to suffer for it – a clever and efficient bit of engineering.

The Scope driving lights include a handy dimming function, allowing output to be reduced by 80% at the touch of a button. This is particularly useful when approaching towns or built-up areas, as it minimises harsh reflections from roadside signs. It’s a thoughtful inclusion that elevates the lights beyond standard factory headlights when full power isn’t necessary.

Looking at the test photo, the spread of light in all directions is most impressive – especially the well-lit overhanging branch and the illumination off to the left-hand side of the test strip. The lighting is superb, even and bright, both at distance and across the width of the road. Considering the affordable price and strong performance, these lights are definitely worth serious consideration.

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Lightforce Beast

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Beast by name, beast by nature. Let’s cut to the chase – these lights embody exceptional quality, clever design and top-tier engineering, with absolutely outstanding light output to match.

While some of the design cues may lean more toward aesthetics than pure function (and who doesn’t appreciate a sharp-looking product), the engineering innovation combined with thoughtful visual design makes this one of the standout lights on the market. Impressively, it’s far from the most expensive option on test. However, it’s worth noting that the price doesn’t include a wiring harness, which must be purchased separately. Given the complexity of the harness and its integrated switch gear, forget about a DIY setup.

Featuring three cleverly integrated modes to suit varying driving conditions, the Beast offers Spot Mode for long-distance illumination, perfect when maximum reach is required. Flood Mode provides excellent side visibility, ideal for winding or narrow roads. Then there’s Beast Mode, which unleashes the full power of the light, combining the wide spread of Flood Mode with a far more intense central beam. This design eliminates the need for clip-on filters or lens changes.

Beast, not behemoth – considering the complexity, functions, and performance on offer, these lights remain relatively slim and lightweight, making for a superb all-round package.

Looking at the test photo – just wow. From the moment I flicked the switch, I knew I had something special mounted to the front of my HiLux. In Beast mode, with all lights pumping, the long-distance beam, wide-angle spread and overall lighting performance were immediately obvious. While the overhanging branch isn’t quite as well lit as with some other lights, the far-reaching spot beam, broad spread to the far left, and consistent illumination along the right-hand tree line stand out. The ultra-wide, close-range lighting is astounding – pushing close to 180 degrees. Beauty and the Beast – it’s on show at your local road, track or off-road jaunt. 

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Narva Ultima 215 MK3

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The Narva Ultima light is indeed a force in the dead of night. Offering a supremely bright and long-distance beam, it provides sufficient light output to see far and wide.

The design, engineering and build quality are a showcase of modern manufacturing excellence. Multiple mounting holes and toolless vertical adjustment make for simple, flexible installation. The sense of quality is immediately obvious — even before they’re mounted or lit up. While they sit at the premium end of the price range, you are getting a premium product. 

Offering a hybrid beam pattern, the Narva Ultima 215 allows drivers to tailor light output for distance or spread depending on the conditions. An in-cab controller handles the adjustments on the fly, making it easy to adapt as the road changes. A range of coloured bezels is also available to match your vehicle and add a personalised touch to your setup.

Looking at the test photo, the medium to long-distance beam is superb, with excellent brightness and reach. The short-range spread is adequate, though not as wide as some others, and the overhanging branch is clearly illuminated.

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Onyx ION-L-9-G2 

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The Onyx lighting systems claim to utilise LED and laser technology. However, only LED units appear visible within the housing. The design, construction, and specifications share a strong resemblance with other lights on the market – though the Onyx carries a notably higher price tag.

The performance of these lights is average. Distance penetration, beam spread and overall consistency fall squarely into the mid-pack. Considering the high price – on par with premium offerings – the value proposition doesn’t quite stack up, especially when others deliver superior real-world and on-paper results.

Upon reviewing the supplied specifications, I’m somewhat confused by the disparity between the claimed performance and what we experienced in real-world testing – the gap is significant and raises questions about the accuracy of the published figures.

Looking at the test photo, you’ll note that the overhanging branch is averagely lit, as are all other measured distances and spread areas. On its own, this light could be considered a reasonable performer – but when compared directly to most of the other lights on test, it simply doesn’t stack up.

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RoadVision S9 Stealth Halo

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I kinda like it when a manufacturer doesn’t make outrageous claims about a product’s performance. They don’t try to oversell it when it’s clearly up against competitors that are technically superior.

The Road Vision Stealth driving light is that product. It’s a solid offering, sitting in the mid-to-high price range. Its light output is commendable and on par with other mid-spec lights in this test – in fact, its beam pattern is nearly identical to one other unit on test, albeit slightly dimmer.

A triple-bolt mounting system, combined with dual vertical adjustment, puts the Road Vision Stealth on par with most competitors. A straightforward mounting bracket complements the light’s simple design, though it does feature a halo-style daytime running light for added visibility and aesthetics.

Looking at the test photo, the overhanging branch is well lit, crisp and clearly defined, with broad beam patterns casting light to the edges and a long-distance beam reaching far enough to qualify this as a solid all-round performer. However, beyond the wide beam angle, there is noticeable fall-off. In contrast, some other lights cast secondary brightness light out wider, resulting in a better ultra-wide vision.

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Stedi Type-X- Sport Plus 8.5

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When reviewing this STEDI driving light, be sure you’re looking at the exact model we tested – the Type-X Sport Plus 8.5″. STEDI offers a few variations within the Type-X range, each with different specifications and pricing, so it’s important not to confuse them.

The STEDI Type-X Sport Plus 8.5″ is an excellent light, housed in a familiar design with minor updates over previous generations. A triple-bolt mounting system, dual vertical adjustment with locking bolts, and a straightforward bracket support a light that delivers impressive beam distance and spread.

Pricing is excellent for a premium-brand light, particularly when some competitors cost more than twice as much yet deliver fewer features and less performance.

Looking at the test photo, check out how bright that overhanging branch is, the clearly lit trees along the right-hand side of the road, and the strong illumination reaching the trees further left. It casts an excellent overall light beam, though there’s minimal illumination in the close range before the wide beam angle kicks in. Some other lights manage to light this area up slightly, creating a more complete and inclusive beam pattern.

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Tru Vision

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I’ve checked, double-checked, and even asked others to check the pricing of these driving lights. These are by far the cheapest on test, but wait for it… a damn good light. Yep, forget about pricing and look at the beam of this light – it impresses all round. Sure, you can pore over specifications, compare with others, but at the end of the day… night… these lights pack some serious punch.

The standard triple bolt bullbar fitting, combined with dual vertical height adjustment bolts and a simple metal mount, puts this light on par with many others. Simple, excellent results make this light a must-look-at product for those on a budget.

Looking at the test photo, everything is well lit. The overhanging branch, both left- and right-hand side tree lines, plus the long distance, is more than you could expect from a light at this lower-end pricing. The only thing missing is the ultra-wide foreground lighting that some others cast. Seriously, the pricing of these lights is super short-pocket friendly!

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Ultra Vision Nitro 180 Max

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The Aussie-made Nitro 180 Max lights from Ultra Vision sit at the top of the table for lighting performance – and pricing. But with that premium price comes premium componentry, quality engineering, and a product built to go the distance.

They feature a 20 per cent light output mode that, at the push of a button, cuts power by 80 per cent. This provides visibility greater than standard high beams, while reducing glare from roadside sign reflections.

A big plus is the choice of colour temperature, with both the standard 5700K (used during our testing) and a 4500K option available for those seeking a more eye-friendly light output.

The ultra-long 2200-metre claim of usable light is one of the longest we’ve seen, but in real-world driving, how useful is that distance when compared to effective short-, mid- and long-range illumination?

Looking at the test photo, everything is well lit. Both sides of the road are illuminated, the overhanging branch is partially visible, and the long-distance beam is superb. The ultra-wide, close-range lighting delivers excellent side vision, which is crucial for spotting wildlife before they dart onto the road. This broader spread beyond the central beam is what helps prevent a strike.

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Verdict: All of the winners

Remember, each photo was taken with a single driving light in use — no vehicle high or low beams were active, so there’s no interference or enhancement from the vehicle’s standard lighting.

Any driving light that appears patchy or lacking in short-distance spread could well be complemented by your vehicle’s high beams, depending on their quality. That said, the photos presented here allow a fair comparison across all lights under equal conditions.

Let’s be clear — no single light on test is the outright best at everything. Some offer excellent all-round performance, others excel at long-range penetration, while some shine in their spread. For many buyers, it may simply come down to budget and acceptable performance. So, in the interests of catering to a wide range of needs, we’ve split the awards into: Overall Winner, Best Long-Distance Beam, Best Spread Beam, and Best Value for Money.

Best Value for Money: TruVision

We couldn’t go past this light for its outstanding performance combined with an unbeatable price. As the most affordable light on test, the simply engineered housing and basic mounting bracket deliver exceptional results. In fact, it outshines many more expensive competitors with its impressive bang-for-buck.

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Best Long-Distance Beam: Lightforce Beast

With its selectable three-mode system, including an impressive Spot mode, the Lightforce Beast stands out for its real-world performance. While it doesn’t claim the longest beam distance on paper, its actual output is both intense and usable far beyond what most drivers could realistically take advantage of. A superb combination of smart tech and build quality.

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Best Spread Beam: Bushranger VLI

With the supplied clip-on spread beam cover in place, the Bushranger VLI delivers a superbly wide and evenly cast beam pattern. It’s perfect for lighting up the verges and spotting wildlife lurking well off to the side of the road. Add to that the clever Variable Light Intensity system, controlled via an 8-position in-cab dial, and you’ve got a highly adaptable performer.

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Overall winner: Lightforce Beast

Taking top honours requires more than just impressive light output – it demands smart design, ease of installation and adjustment, thoughtful features, and strong overall value. The Lightforce Beast ticks all those boxes. With brilliant illumination across short, medium and long distances, and the ability to switch between spot, spread and Beast modes via an in-cab controller – no clip-on filters required – it’s a class act from every angle.

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Add to that the fact they’re far from the most expensive – sitting comfortably in the mid-to-upper price bracket – and the Lightforce Beast makes a compelling case for anyone wanting premium performance at a fair price. And while beauty is said to be only skin deep, I’ll go out on a limb and say these lights are visually stunning too.

That beastly beam brings to mind the line from a certain animated classic: “I want adventure in the great wide somewhere.” That’s exactly what you’ll get when you bolt a set of these lights onto your rig.

Grays.com – one of Australia’s biggest online auction websites – is renowned for its giant catalogue of 4x4s, cars, boats, motorbikes, trucks and even earth-movers and mining equipment.

Its ever-changing selection of 4×4 vehicles ranges from tough off-roaders to practical highway tourers and everything in between – and you’ll find most makes and models. Each listing provides detailed information on the vehicle’s condition, features and specs, making it easier to find the right fit for your needs. A straightforward buying process combined with the ability to inspect vehicles makes it a relatively easy experience.

We’ve handpicked a selection of 4x4s currently listed on the site, but keep an eye on when the auction closes so you don’t miss out on a bargain 👇

2019 Dodge Ram 2500

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This 2019 Dodge Ram 2500 requires attention to its 4WD system, which is currently not operational, but otherwise presents as a well-equipped heavy-duty ute. Finished in maroon with a black leather interior, it seats five and shows 76,955km on the odometer.

Powered by a diesel engine and six-speed automatic transmission, it comes with dual-zone climate control, heated leather seats, navigation, Bluetooth, reverse camera, park assist, UHF radio, Rhino Rack, sunroof, and electric windows. Supplied with one key, the owner’s manual, and documented service history, the engine starts and runs. Interior condition is good overall, with minor wear and a glovebox requiring attention; the exterior has small dents and scratches consistent with age and use. Sold unregistered and without plates.

• Total kilometres: 76,955km
• Location: SA
• Auction ends: August 14 at 20:00 (AEST)

2015 Mitsubishi Pajero GLX

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This 2015 Mitsubishi Pajero GLX LWB 4×4 offers seven-seat versatility and proven off-road capability, powered by a 3.2L turbo-diesel engine paired with an automatic transmission and selectable 4WD. Showing 247,101km, it’s finished in grey with a black interior and comes with the owner’s manual, service history, and one key.

Features include climate control, Bluetooth, cruise control, reversing camera, nudge bar, roof rails, and a third-row seat, backed by a five-star ANCAP safety rating. The engine starts and runs, with body condition reflecting its age and mileage – including a large scratch and scuff on the front right bumper plus other minor dents and marks. Registered in Victoria (1EX4VH) until 26 June 2026, registration will only be transferred to a buyer holding a valid VIC driver’s licence; otherwise, it will be sold unregistered.

• Total kilometres: 247,101km
• Location: VIC
• Auction ends: August 14 at 20:00 (AEST)

2008 Toyota LandCruiser VX

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More of a risk, but this 2008 Toyota LandCruiser VX VDJ200R is an eight-seat, constant-4WD wagon powered by a 4.5L V8 turbo-diesel engine and automatic transmission. Showing a huge 428,534km, it’s finished in blue with a grey leather interior and comes with the owner’s manual, service history, and one key.

Features include climate control, Bluetooth, cruise control, leather trim, sunroof, bull bar, rear park distance control, third-row seating, and more. The engine starts and runs, but given the vehicle’s age and high mileage, a mechanical inspection is strongly recommended as it may require repairs and maintenance. Condition is consistent with use, including body dents and marks, a chipped or cracked windscreen, interior wear, and a radio that is security locked. Sold unregistered and without plates.

• Total kilometres: 428,534km
• Location: NSW
• Auction ends: August 17 at 20:10 (AEST)

Always remember there are risks involved when buying vehicles at auction, and no cooling-off period applies.

BMW might be about to throw its hat into the hardcore 4×4 ring. 

According to a report from Automotive News, the German marque is developing an all-new SUV designed to rival off-road heavyweights such as the Mercedes-Benz G-Class, Land Rover Defender and Lexus GX. The project, known internally as “G74”, is tipped to debut towards the end of 2029 and will be built at BMW’s Spartanburg facility in South Carolina, USA.

Industry insiders quoted by Automotive News suggest the G74 will be based on a heavily modified version of the next-generation X5’s underpinnings. While the X5 has always been more about on-road dynamics and long-distance touring comfort, this off-road derivative is expected to bring substantial engineering changes – think beefier suspension, improved wheel articulation, greater ground clearance and tougher driveline component.

Interestingly, the G74 may be aimed not just at the ultra-luxury G-Class crowd, but also at more practical premium off-roaders like the Lexus GX. If the platform adaptations lean towards the mid-size category, BMW could find itself bridging a gap between the bulky G-Class and the slightly leaner Defender.

BMW has dabbled in the off-road scene before, albeit rarely. The brand once campaigned a first-generation X3 in rally raid events, and in 2024 showcased a current X3 M50 kitted out for the Rebelle Rally in the US. That one-off featured skid plates, all-terrain tyres, auxiliary lights, roof storage, and protective body film.

As for the G74’s powertrain, Automotive News reports that while the next-gen X5 will offer both petrol and fully electric options, the off-road version is expected to favour internal combustion – potentially with hybrid assistance. 

Given the current X5 for Australia is already sourced from the Spartanburg plant, a local release for the G74 seems plausible, even with the complexities of right-hand-drive production. Pricing could push into Defender V8 and G-Class money depending on spec and capability.

If Automotive News’s report proves accurate, the G74 could be the first BMW engineered from the outset for serious off-road work, not just occasional gravel-road touring.

For a brand better known for fast saloons and performance crossovers, it would be a bold pivot – and potentially the start of a new chapter in BMW’s history.

I have clocked up more outback kilometres than I can count and I’ve tried every type of touring setup, from rooftop tents to camper trailers to caravans.

I didn’t want to buy a ute and swap the tub for a tray with an overweight and ineffective canopy, so I opted for the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper, and it has changed how I camp. In fact, I reckon it has genuinely shifted the game for ute-based touring in Australia.

Born in South Africa, the Canopy Camper has made its mark here for a straightforward reason: it works. It’s fast to set up, tough enough for serious tracks and gives the flexibility to go further without dragging a trailer behind. After a couple of months of using it on the road, I can safely say it’s one of the most efficient and enjoyable touring setups I’ve had.

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Why I chose the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper

Like many other adventurers, I juggled multiple systems depending on the trip – a rooftop tent for short stints and a camper trailer for extended stays. But the constant packing, setting up and trailer drama were getting old fast. I wanted something more streamlined, reliable and capable of keeping up with remote solo travel.

That’s when I started looking at the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper. It offered a promise of simplicity – no towball, no poles, no canvas bag fights in the dark – just a lightweight, hard-wearing, all-in-one camper that bolts straight to the back of my D-MAX X-Terrain. More importantly, it provides an internal habitat to escape inclement weather and pesky flies. 

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Alu-Cab Canopy Camper: Key features and build

The Canopy Camper is a fusion of three concepts: a ute canopy, a rooftop tent and a compact camper body. It’s a pop-top, aluminium camper shell that fits most dual-cab, extra-cab, and single-cab ute tubs. The roof lifts with gas struts to reveal an integrated sleeping platform and mattress, while the rear door opens into a walk-in interior with full standing room.

The structure is made from powder-coated aluminium and is lightweight, tipping the scales at only 240kg with the spare tyre fitted. It is also incredibly strong and built to handle the worst corrugations and dust the outback can throw at you. It’s properly sealed, secure and weather-resistant. Think of it as a touring pod that turns your ute tub into a fully self-contained travel rig.

The Canopy Camper comes pre-wired, which is very handy and tidy. Protected in corrugated tubing, there’s wiring for the solar input on the roof of the camper, the five cabin lights, two stalk lights in the tent, and 12v power and USB ports in the tent. 

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How professional installation works

The guys at Get Off Road 4×4 here in Wodonga installed the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Deluxe on my D-Max X-Terrain, which I dropped off to them on the day I picked it up from Blacklocks Isuzu with just 10km on the clock.

The first step was to remove the roof rails, sports bar, hard tonneau cover and tailgate before cleaning the surfaces and preparing them for Sikaflex. Watching the camper swinging from a forklift as it was slowly lowered into place was nerve-racking. The team at Get Off Road 4×4 then spent the next three days bolting the unit to the tub, installing the vehicle-specific infill plates on the rear, the 50L water tank, 270° Shadow Awning and the Shower Cube before sealing the gaps with Sikaflex. 

Sealing the tub from dust and water ingress was more extensive than anticipated. Since each brand and model of 4×4 tub is different, identifying all the holes can be difficult. Even a smoke bomb didn’t reveal all the tiny holes that let dust in. It has taken me three tubes of Sikaflex to seal the tub thoroughly, so I’m confident it is dust-free and waterproof. Another critical point is the tub and Canopy Camper flex, so if a seal is defective, it might crack or split, allowing dust to penetrate, so I still carry a small tube of Sikaflex with me… just in case. 

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Set up camp in under a minute

I can’t overstate how good it feels to pull up to camp and be set up in less than 60 seconds. No lie – I park and level up the D-MAX, open the rear door, unlatch the roof, and give it a push, climb inside and lift the bed. I then fold out the Alu-Cab Shadow Awning and I’m done – no ropes, pegs or climbing a ladder with a torch between my teeth.

The bedding stays in place, the mattress stays dry and I’m off the ground and out of the weather. If the skies are angry or it’s late and I’m wrecked, I can still be in bed before the billy boils. In the morning, pack-down is just as easy – I leave my sleeping bag in place, close the roof, latch it shut, close the awning and I’m back on the road.

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Built tough for Australian conditions

The more time I spend with the Canopy Camper the more impressed I am with its resilience. It handles the heat in the Top End, the cold of the High Country and the dust of the outback… like a pro. The roof is insulated, the seals are solid and the powder-coated finish shrugs off chips and scratches. 

The tried-and-tested ripstop canvas tent offers durability and protection from the elements. It combines a robust canvas material with a reliable waterproof layer, providing a comfortable and secure environment. Whether you’re setting up in rainy conditions or hot sunny weather, this tent is designed to meet your needs and offer an enjoyable outdoor experience.

The fact that everything is contained within the tub footprint means I retain full off-road capability. No trailer means I can reverse the D-MAX down tight tracks, drive over soft sand without sinking and climb rutted hills without a second thought.

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Modular design for serious touring

One of the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper’s greatest strengths is its modularity and lightness. You’re not locked into a set design. The interior is a blank canvas, ready for you to kit out however you like. The basic shell’s starting weight is a mere 210kg. There is a difference between the base model and the Deluxe model.

Deluxe:

• Internal storage bags on the tent roof 
• Power: Internal USB and Type-C power points
• Lighting: Internal lighting (5x National Luna dual colour lights, white/red)
• Wiring for solar panels
• Canvas mesh bags on the rear internal panels
• Canvas bags on the rear door 
• 2 x Molle Plates on the rear externally
• 270° Shadow Awning and Awning deflector fitted
• Midgee nets on the side doors
• Fitment Kit

Tent Structure & Materials:

• Fabric: Double-layer 400gsm UV-resistant ripstop canvas with sealed seams
• Rooftop Load Rating: 50kg

Shadow Awning Structure & Materials:

• 2600mm length when closed, weighs 24kg
• 270° self-supported awning provides 10sqm of shade
• 315gsm 100% polyester base cloth impregnated with an acrylic-based resin
• Reflective ripstop material, the awning casts a noticeably lower shade temperature
• Four heavy-duty aluminium arms
• A single leg is available for windy conditions, and four tie-down ropes are integrated into each arm
• Extra legs, storm kit and awning walls can be purchased separately

Interior & Comfort:

• Mattress Material: 70mm high-density foam with a zip-off cover, to which I added a condensation mat underneath and a mattress topper to suit my preferences
• Canopy Access: 3-point access with gas strut supported lift-up side doors and full vertical rear door
• Tent Access: 3-point external access, one internal access point
• Tent Insulation: Top and bottom foam insulation

To the deluxe model, I added:

• Spare wheel bracket for the rear door
• 50L food grade UV stabilised LLDPE water tank and canvas pocket kit (includes breather assembly and outlet fittings with a lockable tap)
• Canopy Camper Table Slide and Alu Table
• Midgee net for the rear door
• Alu-Cab Shower Cube
• Jerry can holder
• Shadow Awn Gutter Kit
• Roof Rack Tray
• Push Button Lock Covers
• Get Good Gear Molle panel on a side door
• Razed Products Flush Mounting Kit for TRED Pros

Stage Two of the build will include fitting out the internal space with Goose Gear Modular Cabinetry, a Projecta Power Management System and battery, Projecta solar fixed solar panels, Duoetto 10L hot water, an EGON Water Hub, an Alu-Cab ModCAP Kitchen and a Travel Buddy. This setup will give me enough to stay off-grid for a week and to move quickly between camps without having to rely on caravan parks or powered sites.

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How it changed my remote travel

Before fitting the Canopy Camper, I debated whether to take the camper trailer or deal with the rooftop tent. Trips were slower, setup was a chore and I often avoided specific routes because I didn’t want the hassle. If the weather was bad or the flies were annoying, I was stuck outside with no respite.

Now I can travel lighter, further and more confidently. I no longer plan trips around campsites or trailer-friendly tracks. I go where I want, from remote desert tracks to high country ridgelines, and I know that camp is only a minute away at day’s end.

At camp, I know I can escape bad weather inside the Canopy Camper, with the insect screens covering the sides and rear door to prevent bugs from entering. I can even drop the access panel for the bed and use it as a workspace. At night, I’m safe knowing I can lock the rear door internally so that no one can open it from the outside, nor can they lock me in. 

There’s also a psychological shift: the simplicity makes touring more enjoyable, there is less gear to manage and fewer things to worry about. Everything has a place. Everything works.

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Final verdict: Is it worth it?

The Alu-Cab Canopy Camper isn’t cheap… and it’s not for everyone. But if you’re serious about touring, value your time and you want a setup that works hard without compromise, it’s one of the best investments you can make. It also makes more efficient use of the rear of your ute, unlike a tray with a canopy.

It’s taken the stress out of travel and made the road feel more like home. Whether chasing red dirt tracks or winding through rainforest trails, I know I’ve got a reliable, comfortable and capable setup that can go the distance.

Top 5 must-have mods 

1. 50L water tank: Allows me to stay off-grid for longer.
2. Alu-Cab ModCap Kitchen: The perfect modular kitchen with everything available, just add the stove.
3. Rear Door Midgee Screen: Keeps the bugs out while increasing the airflow by keeping the rear door open.
4. Canopy Camper Table Slide & Alu Table: Perfect storage for a simple-to-set-up aluminium table.
5. Spare Wheel Holder: Holds up to a 33-inch wheel and tyre, freeing up space under the tub.

RRP: From $25,000

When it comes to off-roading, many experienced drivers swear by the toughness and feel of older 4×4 vehicles.

Older rigs like the Land Rover Defender 300Tdi and the ever-capable 80 Series LandCruiser feature long-travel coil spring suspension and live axles – a setup still considered one of the most effective for off-road driving. By comparison, most modern 4x4s now feature independent front suspension (IFS) paired with live axles at the rear, usually supported by leaf springs for load-carrying and durability. A few models, especially higher-end or off-road-focused ones, run coil springs at the rear to improve comfort and articulation.

Tracks that include steep climbs, deep ruts and tricky rock-shelf steps can be relatively easy or quite difficult, depending on the vehicle and its accessories. Vehicles like the Defender and 80 Series cruise up climbs with ease, rarely lifting a wheel or struggling for traction. Engaging air lockers on steep climbs allows slow, controlled progress in low-range first gear, with suspension flexing to absorb obstacles.

By contrast, some modern vehicles – particularly those with IFS and no rear diff lock – may struggle to maintain traction and often rely on electronic traction control. Mechanical issues such as damaged tyre valve stems requiring mid-track wheel changes have been observed in these situations. Long rear overhangs on some newer utes also lead to rear bumpers taking knocks, and alloy wheels may suffer damage on rough terrain.

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On the downside, older vehicles often lack modern comfort features like reliable air conditioning, which can make dusty tracks and long highway drives less comfortable. Engine cooling can become an issue when pushed beyond moderate speeds, and older vehicles may require ongoing maintenance to address wiring and mechanical faults, especially after extended use.

Despite these drawbacks, older 4x4s remain highly regarded for their fun factor and superior capability in challenging bush conditions. Long live analogue 4x4s.

How much water should you carry in the Outback?

We’ve all heard it – “carry plenty of water” when heading into remote country. But how much is plenty? The bare survival rule is about four litres per person per day. That’s enough to keep you alive if things go pear-shaped, but it won’t leave much for cooking, washing up or keeping yourself clean. On a normal trip, you’ll go through more.

Managing water weight on remote trips

Some travellers load up with hundreds of litres. That’s peace of mind for some, but remember – water is heavy. Weight is the enemy of any vehicle or trailer, especially on rough tracks. For most couples in the bush, eight to 12 litres per day between the two of you is plenty. That allows for drinking, cooking and basic washing, while still giving you a safety margin.

Planning your Outback route around water sources

If you know where reliable water sources are, you don’t need to haul as much. Wells, bores and tanks are scattered across parts of the Outback – some with hand pumps – and can be a lifesaver for topping up.

For example, along the Canning Stock Route, several reconditioned wells provide good water, so starting with 80–100 litres for two people is usually enough. A Simpson Desert crossing from Mt Dare to Birdsville, which can take four to seven days with no water available, might call for 60–80 litres for two people.

Practical ways to save water when camping

• Dishes: Use paper plates on short trips, or clean lightly soiled utensils with a spray bottle and detergent. For pots and pans, wipe out leftovers with a paper towel before using minimal hot water.
  
• Showers: Keep them short – wet down, turn off the water, soap up, rinse. If you’re really tight on supply, a 1.5–2-litre bottle with holes in the base makes a surprisingly good bush shower.
  
• Clothes washing: Save the big laundry jobs for when you reach a roadhouse or other good water source.
  

Final tips for carrying water in the bush

Water equals weight, and excess weight is hard on your gear and fuel budget. Carry enough to cover your essential needs, know where you can restock, and don’t go overboard. For most travellers, more than 15–20 litres a day for a couple or small family – even on a long desert run – is more than you’ll realistically need.

Ford is investing approximately $5 billion to develop a new midsize electric pickup and produce advanced lithium iron phosphate (LFP) batteries at its Louisville Assembly Plant in Kentucky and BlueOval Battery Park in Michigan.

The first vehicle built on this platform will be a midsize four-door electric pick-up, expected to arrive in showrooms by 2027 with a starting price near US$30,000.

Central to this effort is Ford’s new Universal EV Platform, engineered to simplify production by cutting complexity. Compared to typical vehicles, this platform is said to reduce the number of parts by about 20 per cent, cut fasteners by 25 per cent, and decrease the number of workstations in the plant by 40 per cent. As a result, assembly time is around 15 per cent faster.

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Ford has also significantly streamlined components like the wiring harness in this new truck, making it over a kilometre shorter and about 10kg lighter than that used in the company’s first-generation electric SUV. The pick-up is expected to offer more passenger room than the latest Toyota RAV4, as well as cavernous storage in both the engine bay and truck bed.

“We took a radical approach to a very hard challenge: Create affordable vehicles that delight customers in every way that matters – design, innovation, flexibility, space, driving pleasure, and cost of ownership – and do it with American workers,” said Jim Farley, Ford President and CEO.

To achieve this, Ford revamped its manufacturing with the Universal EV Production System. Instead of the traditional moving assembly line, it uses an “assembly tree” process where the front, rear, and battery sections are built separately before being joined. Farley said, “We tore up the moving assembly line concept and designed a better one.”

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The platform’s cobalt- and nickel-free LFP battery packs play a key role. These prismatic batteries are integrated into the vehicle floor, acting as a structural sub-assembly that lowers the centre of gravity. This design improves handling, creates a quieter cabin, and frees up more interior space. It also delivers durability, cost savings and weight reductions.

The Louisville Assembly Plant is receiving nearly $2 billion in upgrades to prepare for production, while BlueOval Battery Park in Michigan will begin producing the LFP battery packs next year.

Confirmation of this new electric pickup as an Australian export is pending.

Suzuki Australia has reportedly cancelled all outstanding orders for the Indian-built Jimny XL five-door, returning deposits in what is typically an unprecedented move in the industry. 

The company hasn’t officially outlined the exact reason for the cancellation, but customers do have the option to keep their place in the queue and wait – indefinitely – for the issue to be resolved.

This follows a stop-sale order from July 2025, when deliveries of the XL were paused by Suzuki’s head office in Japan. Dealers were instructed to halt handovers of all five-door models – including showroom stock and customer allocations – amid what was believed to be a quality control issue. Suzuki said the problem wasn’t safety-related, and owners could continue driving their vehicles without restriction.

While there’s still no clear word on what the issue is, cancelling existing orders marks a significant step up from the earlier pause. Refunding deposits – which are usually non-refundable – shows Suzuki is trying to maintain customer goodwill while things remain uncertain.

The Jimny XL builds on the three-door’s tough, go-anywhere reputation but adds practicality with a longer wheelbase and rear doors. Demand was already strong and supply limited, so this delivery pause and cancellations will only add to delays for buyers. The Japanese-made three-door Jimny remains unaffected.

Launched in early 2024, the XL stretches the Jimny’s wheelbase by 340mm and adds a second set of doors for easier access to the rear seats. Mechanically, it’s the same as the short-wheelbase model – a 1.5-litre petrol engine with part-time 4WD and a low-range transfer case. Off-road specs include a 36-degree approach angle, 47-degree departure angle, 24-degree ramp-over, 210mm ground clearance and a wading depth of 300mm.

Pricing starts at $34,990 for the manual, rising to $37,490 for the automatic. Suzuki also offers a Heritage Edition at $36,490, featuring retro decals and a colour-coded roof.