IT MAY sound like a dish served at a ritzy, high-end establishment, but this campsite tucker is as simple as they come.

Seafood isn’t your thing? Perhaps these recipes are more up your alley: Pesto Pork, Pickled Dogs, or Apple Spring Rolls.

Before you end up on some out-of-the-way track in the middle of nowhere, stop by a market and/or supermarket and purchase some frozen green prawns – they’ll keep in the Engel for ages!

First thing to do to get this delicious dish underway is to heat up some oil in a pan on the Gladiator. Then, when it’s hot enough, throw the frozen prawns on top.

As they sizzle away, add a few tablespoons of garlic – the more the merrier. Sprinkle in some chilli flakes and stir through.

By now the prawns should have started to change colour. When they’re no longer pink, tip over a bottle of sweet chilli sauce and pour a heap of it on top. A squirt of lime juice also works a treat.

For the final touches, add a can of coconut cream and a touch of salt. Boil it away until the prawns look ready to eat – test one if need be.

Served with a side of rice, this protein-packed dish is a winner for all ages!

LAND Rover is developing a more off-road-focused version of its just-revealed Discovery.

Expected to pick up the SVX badge, it will be created by the Special Vehicle Operations that also creates the go-fast SVR models for Land Rover and sister company Jaguar.

But rather than going faster, the Discovery SVX – based on the fifth-generation Discovery that boasts the most curvaceous design yet for the seven-seat SUV – will be primed to tackle more challenging terrain and remote locations.

Key to the changes will be smaller wheels and tyres. Speaking at the release of the new Discovery, chief engineer Alex Heslop told 4X4 Australia that the new car was being developed with 18-inch wheels; smaller than the wheels for mainstream Discoverys, which range from 19- to 22-inch.

“Clearly something we want to do is get smaller wheels underneath it,” said Heslop, who all but confirmed a Discovery SVX was in the wings by saying “watch this space”.

Heslop said the 18-inch wheels shod in all-terrain rubber would require a smaller brake package, something made possible with the arrival of the four-cylinder diesel engine (marketed as Ingenium), which combined with an aluminium intensive body has seen weight drop by up to 480kg.

For that reason, the Discovery SVX is likely to be powered by a four-cylinder; either the already announced 2.0-litre turbo-diesel or the identically sized turbocharged petrol model arriving in JLR models from 2017. It’s the diesel that is the most likely option.

Australia is one of the key markets for the Discovery SVX (the Middle East and South Africa have also helped sign off the business case), which is expected to compete with top-end Toyota Prados and Ford Everests, each of which has accomplished credentials in the Australian outback.

However, one area the Land Rover can’t compete with the Prado is with the fuel tank. With the spare wheel underslung it means a larger tank is problematic, leaving that solution to the aftermarket (expect some to offer brackets that relocate the tyre to the tail, allowing for a larger tank).

The Discovery is available with an 89-litre tank when fitted with the supercharged V6 engine that won’t be offered in Australia (the new Discovery is diesel only for Australia). That’s well up on the 77-litre tank fitted to the four-cylinder diesel models (the smaller tank allows for batteries for a future Discovery hybrid).

If Land Rover fitted that larger tank it would increase range from about 1230km (assuming the claimed average 6.0L/100km fuel use) to about 1430km. Assuming that fuel use will be unachievable – our guess is fuel use would be closer to 8.0 or 9.0L/100km – it would still allow more than 1000km from a tank, which is more than any Discovery to date.

Other tweaks possible for the SVX include a snorkel and roof basket. The Discovery SVX would also be a logical place to showcase the latest in autonomous off-road tech, something Heslop says will continue to roll out in future generations.

“With each model year we put a little bit more semi-autonomous [tech]… and we’re going to just take a little bit more control into the car and away from the driver. At the moment it’s very much about enabling a novice to do stuff that they couldn’t possibly imagine previously.”

He highlighted the All-Terrain Coach function, an integrated program designed to educate drivers how to get out of difficult situations.

SVO chief John Edwards previously told 4X4 Australia the company was looking at two options for its more off-road focused models. “We sometimes take inspiration from Camel Trophy and think about really hardcore expedition vehicles,” said Edwards earlier this year. However, he also hinted that SVO could blend performance with off-road capability.

“There’s another way of executing it which is to think about the kind of rally raid, if you like, where speed is more important. We’re exploring both of those dimensions.”

TO kick-start our 4×4 Garage series – a six-part inside look at some of Australia’s best 4×4 aftermarket companies – we’ve taken a peek behind the scenes at event sponsor Dana Australia’s Melbourne facility, where the company designs and manufactures the Ultimate 60 rear axle kit for the LandCruiser 70 Series.

The locally designed and manufactured Ultimate Dana 60 rear axle kit was an idea spawned to rectify the factory shortcomings of the loveable Toyota 70 Series. Peter Langworthy, Dana Australia’s managing director, explained: “We saw an opportunity about two years ago with the legendary LandCruiser 79 Series, for us to enhance that product above its normal capabilities.

“We identified that there were certain areas of opportunity for us to improve on the original equipment axle.”

The research phase of the development process saw Dana speak to professional 4×4 workshops, fleet customers, and punters who tow long distances, to find out what issues needed addressing.

“The feedback we received was along the lines of rectifying the track issue to enable better use of the vehicle in sand, bog or mud,” Peter said. “There were also issues around oil degradation, because of the low oil capacity in the original axle – in other words, we needed to increase the amount of oil lubrication.”

An electronic ELocker was also high on the list, as well as the ability for the kit to incorporate other aftermarket goodies like heavy-duty suspension products and bigger shock absorbers. Customers were also adamant that the GVM of the vehicle needed a spike.

“A lot of fleets have been talking to us about the need to improve the GVM capacity of the vehicle. Previously, the original axle was a limiting factor for being able to increase legally and in full compliance of a GVM improvement.”

Another key design cue brought up by customers prior to production was for the half shafts to retain the full floating application, as per the original equipment.

Countless hours of research and development resulted in the Ultimate Dana 60, a rear axle that is supplied as a complete aftermarket bolt-in kit.

The complete kit includes the axle, heavy-duty suspension brackets, axle shafts, heavy-duty driveshafts and all installation hardware.

“The electrical components are ready for you to plug straight into the OE wiring loom fitted to the vehicle,” Peter said.

Incorporated into the diff centre is an Eaton ELocker. Owners must ensure that their vehicle was originally optioned with a factory locker, otherwise a switch on the dash will need to be installed.

The manufacturing process takes place entirely within Dana’s Melbourne assembly factory. “We have a large range of components that are made locally. We push the tubes into the housing, build the diff centre itself, incorporate the Eaton ELocker, weld the spindles and the tubes to the housings, and then we also assemble the whole kit ready to bolt into the vehicle,” Peter said.

However, all of the internal differential parts are shipped in from international Dana facilities before they are housed locally. “The base elements of the axle itself, being the carrier, the housing and the internals, remain similar to every other Dana 60 around the globe, but we’ve produced our own tubes, our own spindles, our own half shafts. We’ve designed those locally to suit the Toyota LandCruiser. Therefore you can fit the OE wheel end, brakes, hubs and rims to the vehicle.”

As we toured Dana’s Hallam factory, Dana’s general manager of aftermarket, Brad Wolstenholme, explained that the busy staff used to pump out 450 driveshafts per day during Holden and Ford’s halcyon days. That number has now been reduced to approximately 100 shafts per day – still impressive.

The factory was a flurry of activity as we eyed the production line, including witnessing the 50-tonne press inserting the Ultimate 60’s tubes into the carrier.

The final product is a considerable improvement over the OE axle in many areas: oil capacity increases from 2.4L to 3.25L; axle width jumps from 1460mm to 1555mm; tube thickness from 6.3mm to 10.0mm; tube diameter from 80.0mm to 88.9mm; axle weight from 86kg to 105kg; and theoretical Gross Axle Mass from 3318kg to 4746kg.

Superior locally made alloy spindles and axle shafts replace the OE gear, and the Eaton ELocker replaces the optional TMC locker (if optioned).

Can customers perform the installation at home? Ideally not, according to Peter: “It’s important anyone doing this installation is either qualified or certainly well-adept at doing that type of work. Our preference would be that it is done at a qualified professional 4×4 garage, but certainly if someone is capable of doing it, it can be done – we include all fitting instructions for that to occur.”

The Australian-designed and built Ultimate 60 is backed with a 12-month/30,000km warranty, and Peter was adamant that customers will have no problem getting the necessary legal approvals.

“It’s our preference that the owner does this through a registered workshop, and those workshops can help the owner through the process of legally fitting the modification to the vehicle.”

Dana Australia provided an indicative price of $9990 for installation of the Ultimate 60, but that can vary for each customer. All the appropriate installation paperwork is provided by Dana’s engineers for the car to gain approval.

TO THE TEST

DANA’S LC79 has been its R&D and show vehicle, logging up the kays to test the Ultimate 60 under all manner of loads and conditions. We took it out for a day to get a feel for the new rear end.

There’s not much to say about the performance around town, it drives like any other Cruiser. The real difference comes when you hit the gravel roads and get off-road.

The standard 70 has an inherent tendency to wander at speed on loose surfaces, as the outside edge of the rear tyres ride along the edge of the groove created by the front tyres.

This has the driver constantly making corrections on the wheel to keep it pointed straight.

The wheel track correction of the Dana Ultimate 60 has the rear wheels following the fronts to rectify this problem and make the car more stable. This again works in your favour on mud or sand where the rear wheels no longer have to forge their own track through the surface, as they now follow directly in the track of the front wheels.

This track fix is a win both on- and off-road, and then you have the added bonus of a heavier duty rear axle allowing for a larger GVM upgrade.

MANY of you will be familiar with the Polaris brand via its range of all-terrain vehicles and quad bikes, including the excellent Polaris RZR off-road buggies. But did you know it also makes American motorcycle brands Indian and Victory Motorcycles.

The massive US-based company is set to get in to the 4×4 aftermarket game in a big way, announcing today its intention to acquire the Transamerican Auto Parts (TAP) group.

Never heard of TAP? Neither had we, but we do know brands such as Smittybilt, Poison Spyder, Rubicon Express and Pro Comp all come under the TAP umbrella. Viewers of popular online 4×4 programs will also recognise the names 4 Wheel Parts and 4Wheel Drive Hardware – and yes, they’re also part of TAP.

If the sale of TAP to Polaris goes through as expected it will give Polaris huge reach into the off-road accessories market via the brands, the bricks and mortar, and the online retail businesses, and that could extend to the market here in Australia.

The announcement was only made today and a spokesperson for Polaris Australia told 4X4 Australia that it was still early days and couldn’t comment further on the deal.

On the other side of the pond, Polaris Chairman and Chief Executive Officer Scott W. Wine said in a statement: “We are excited to add TAP’s market-leading multi-channel business, proprietary brands, proven management team and experienced employees to the Polaris portfolio. This transaction is consistent with our long-term strategy, provides us an immediate leadership position in a growing market, and allows us to accelerate Polaris’ growth and profitability.

“TAP’s products and services for customers in the off-road 4WD market correspond closely to our Off-Road Vehicle business. Our similar cultures, centred on innovative brands and performance, make TAP a great addition to Polaris’ expanding portfolio.”

Presently in Australia brands like Smittybilt, Pro Comp and Poison Spyder are available from a selection of mainly Jeep-focused businesses, such as Murchison Products in Queensland and JeepKonection in Melbourne. However, any changes to this arrangement are yet to be seen. What will be interesting is if or when Polaris expands the power of the online reach of 4 Wheel Drive Hardware to our markets.

THE Everest is gone. Taking its place in the 4×4 Shed is a Hilux SR5.

The latest Hilux represents a big improvement over the previous model so we were always keen to drive one, and now we have this one to get grubby over the next three months.

Toyota has loaded up this truck with accessories, including the genuine Australian-made steel bullbar, Hella driving lights, factory snorkel, rubber floor mats, a hard deck lid, and a clever roller slide in the bed to make loading and unloading your gear easier. All products that make a good thing better.

You know the old saying that you never know how many friends you have until you own a ute? Well that’s proven true with the Hilux, because as soon as it was spotted in the carpark at HQ, the folks at Caravan World magazine stole it for a massive test of the best ’vans. With its factory towbar, Redarc brake controller and 3500kg towing capacity, the ’Lux should make light duty of such a job.

Speaking of towing, be sure to pick up the November issue of 4X4 Australia magazine to see how the Hilux, along with all the other popular 4×4 one-tonne utes, copes with towing a load and hauling heavy weight in its tray. The new issue is on sale now!

PRICING Hilux SR5 double cab 4×4 with 2.8L diesel and six-speed manual: RRP $54,390 Premium interior package, with leather-accented seats: RRP $2000 Premium paint: RRP $550

ACCESSORIES TOYOTA GENUINE ACCESSORIES (EXCLUDING FITMENT) Steel bullbar: RRP $2200 Hella driving lights: RRP $220 each + bracket RRP $149 + harness RRP $106 Tow bar: RRP $528 Trailer wiring harness: RRP $235 Snorkel: RRP $525 Hard tonneau: RRP $2873 Bed slide: RRP $1800 (or RRP $2170 if bed slide walls installed)

ALL four-wheel drivers like to be as self-sufficient as possible, especially when travelling to the remote regions of Australia. And when you’re there, knowing basic maintenance could save not just a few bucks but possibly even your life.

So join us as we show you how to completely overhaul a live-axle front knuckle and bearing, using basic hand tools. This type of knuckle is similar to what you’ll find under any early Nissan Patrol, Toyota LandCruiser or Land Rover.

STEPS

1. BEFORE jacking up the vehicle, chock the opposite wheel and loosen the wheel nuts while the wheel is still grounded. After raising, place a rated jack stand under the axle and lower the vehicle onto the stand. Before taking the wheel nuts and wheel off, give the car a decent shake to make sure the jack stand and the position it’s in are secure. Don’t forget the park brake, and make sure you leave the vehicle in gear.

2. ONCE the wheel has been removed, place it underneath the side of the car. If the jack stand fails and you’re underneath it, it’ll stop the car falling all the way to the ground. While it might not be high enough to stop you from being trapped under the car, it might be high enough to stop you from being crushed by the weight of the car.

3/4. REMOVE the brake caliper and secure it out of the way – a zip tie works great for this, just make sure you don’t twist or stretch the flexible brake line. Unbolt the freewheeling hub cover then remove the snap ring. To remove it, use a couple of small flat-head screwdrivers – although a pair of snap-ring pliers (pictured) will make the job easier and a lot less bloody.

5. TO unbolt the freewheeling hub body, the cone washer must be removed. To remove, place a brass drift onto the end of the stud and strike sharply with a hammer. Sometimes they’ll pop right out and sometimes they’ll have you hammering on the end of the brass drift like your life depends on it. Don’t fall into the trap of hitting the edge of the freewheeling body just above the cone socket – while this will work, it’ll distort the taper and the cone washer won’t be able to do its job of locking onto the stud when it’s time to reinstall it.

6. TIME to grab a 54mm socket and remove the lock nut, tab washer and bearing adjustment nut. Some bearing adjustment nuts will have screws; others, as in this case, have a couple of small Allen bolts that will need removal before you can get to the outer bearing. These large 54mm sockets are available at all good 4WD accessory shops.

7/8. TAKE out the thrust washer along with the outer bearing. Then carefully remove the hub and rotor assembly and place it out of the way until later.

9. SPRINDLE bolts come next – an old ice cream container is a great receptacle to contain the growing number of parts.

10. REMOVE the dust seal and cover to reveal the spindle. To break the seal, the spindle usually requires a little gentle persuasion with a soft hammer.

11. GENTLY remove the CV. Some will have a flat ground spot on the bell and require turning to match the opening in the knuckle. When removing, support either side of the CV to avoid damaging the inner axle seal.

12. REMOVE the split pin and unscrew the castellated nut on the knuckle arm. The rod end is locked into the knuckle arm with a taper, so use a tie rod tool to break the taper.

13. THE knuckle arm is held in with four bolts and associated cone washers that all need to come out. Unscrew all four nuts to the end of the stud and then use a soft hammer to give the knuckle arm a couple of sharp blows to dislodge the cone washers without having to chase them across the floor. On the opposite side of the knuckle, the bearing cap will have to be removed. There is a spacing shim in between the bearing cap and the knuckle body, used to adjust the preload on the bearings.

14. THE rear wipers are held in by bolts through to the rear of the knuckle. Removing these will enable the removal of the knuckle.

15. AFTER wiping down the bare knuckle, grab out the brass drift and drive out the upper and lower knuckle bearings’ race outers.

16. A SEAL removal tool will make light work of removing the inner axle seal. However, a flat-bladed screwdriver, a hammer and a pair of channel locks will make a decent substitute if you find yourself stranded trackside.

17. GRAB the hub brake rotor assembly and remove the rear hub seal, using the seal remover and the inner bearing.

18. TO install the new inner axle seal use a special installation tool, or grab a tow ball to use as a mandrel and gently knock the new seal in until it’s seated. Set the seal by packing bearing grease behind it – this will help retain the small spring and keep the axle a little more concentric when you’re inserting the axle and CV.

19/20. TO make sure you don’t spoil the surface, seat the new upper and lower bearings using a brass drift. It’s imperative that the bearing outers are fully seated.

21. DRAPE the knuckle wiper assembly over the knuckle and make sure it is in the correct order. There may be a small circumferential ridge on the rubber gasket, which will need to face a felt wiper. A little trick that helps keep dust and mud out of the inner working of the knuckle is to saturate the felt wiper with bearing grease before installation. Spend the next hour or so up to your elbows in kerosene, scrubbing all the bits and pieces. Make sure all of the grease and any silicon sealants are completely removed. Kerosene leaves a residue when it dries, so grab some methylated spirits and wipe any gasket surfaces clean before laying down a small amount of gasket sealant and the gaskets.

22. PACK the upper and lower bearings with moly grease and install along with the knuckle arm and the bearing cap. Tension the bolts to factory specifications; otherwise the wheel could drop off. If you’ve used quality bearings there should be no need to adjust the shim spacer located between the bearing cap and the knuckle housing. If the preload needs adjusting, refer to your factory service manual to measure the preload and adjust the shims to achieve the correct preload.

23. INSTALL the wiper assembly. The bolts holding the wiper in are small, so use a torque wrench to achieve the correct torque or you risk snapping them.

24. INSTALL the castellated nut and split pin. Tighten up the castellated nut and then, once tight, move slightly until the hole in the thread lines up with one of the slots in the nuts, allowing you to install the pin. Trim the pin to size and bend the ends over to oppose each other.

25. INSERT the CV, taking care to pack as much moly grease into the rear of the CV bell as you can. Work back and forth to get into all the nook and crannies. If the inner axle wasn’t inserting into the CV, pack the centre of the CV with moly grease. Use the inner axle to hydraulically push the moly grease into the inner workings of the CV, before finally installing the inner axle. You might need to rotate the CV assembly slightly to engage the axle spline into the differential.

26. PACK the remaining moly grease into the knuckle and try to spread it around as evenly as possible.

27. THE spindle will be a light interference fit, so start a couple of bolts opposite each other to help align the spindle before tapping it home with a soft mallet.

28. REMOVE the alignment bolts and install the brake dust seal and cover. Don’t forget to install the gaskets and torque the bolts to specifications.

29. INSTALL the inner and outer wheel bearing races in the rotor hub assembly using a hammer and brass drift. It’s imperative to make sure they’re both seated correctly, otherwise the gaps will close with use and the preload on the wheel bearings will be lost, leading to premature failure.

30. TIME to get dirty. Pop a decent-sized wad of bearing grease on the palm of your hand and work it through one side of the bearing until it starts to squeeze out the other side. Work your way around the bearing until it’s completely full. Don’t forget you’ll need to pack both bearings. Once both bearings are installed in the hub, install a new seal into the rear.

31. THE spindle will need a liberal coating of grease before the hub can go back on.

32/33. PLACE the thrust washer back on, followed by the bearing preload nut.

34. IF your 4WD is going to be used for heavy off-roading or thousands of kilometres of corrugated outback roads, you should adjust the bearings. You need to be 100 per cent certain the bearings are seated and aren’t going to lose their preload once set. Tighten the bearing preload nut and use a soft-faced hammer to beat the living snot out of the rotor face while occasionally turning the rotor. Better to do it now than realise there’s a problem half way down the Oodnadatta track.

35. TIGHTEN the bearing preload nut to the factory service manual’s specification.

36. INSTALL the vehicle’s bearing preload locking mechanism so you don’t lose the setting.

37. INSTALL the freewheeling hub’s body using the cone washers, flat washers and nuts. Torque to specification.

38. CAREFULLY replace the snap ring. Bear in mind it’ll be under tension when you’re installing it, so it’ll shoot off into the darkest corner of your workshop given half an opportunity.

39. INSTALL the freewheeling hub’s cover and torque to spec. Don’t forget to install the gasket if applicable on your vehicle.

40. REINSTALL the brake caliper. If you didn’t touch the brake pedal while the caliper was off, it should slip straight back on. Make sure the flexible brake line isn’t twisted.

41. PUT the wheel back on. Before installing the nuts give them a little squirt of water-dispersant spray, so that next time they’ll come off nice and easy.

All that’s left now is to jack the car up a little, remove the jack stand and lower the car. Once the car is on the ground, check the tension of the wheel nuts. I like to tighten each opposing nut and count them out loud – it provides amusement for the onlookers if nothing else! Start at the top and re-check the tension of each nut, working your way around in a clockwise direction.

Since I’ve been using this method I haven’t had one wheel overtake me on the freeway. It’s a good idea to re-check the tension after a short drive.

Well, what are you waiting for? Go hit the tracks!

IF you prefer to keep your recipes simple when out bush, then this pork treat is the perfect meal for you.

Not keen on pork? Check out these alternative recipes: Chilli Beef, Kraut Dog, or Smoked Chicken.

The method is straightforward, and it begins by putting half a bottle of pesto in a bowl.

Add a couple of tablespoons of garlic, some salt, a dash of olive oil, and just a touch of beer.

Stir the concoction up and smother it on some pork chops.

Guess what? That’s it! All you need to do now is cook it up on a smoking hot griddle – any grill will do the trick.

From go-to-whoa, this dish will be done in less than 20 minutes!

Leave it on the griddle a bit longer if you prefer your meat well done.

Serve it up with a side of beans, or any vegies taking up space in the Engel that you’ve been waiting to get rid of.

A simple, hearty meal that will liven up the mood at any campsite.

Even the world’s worst chef should have no dramas serving this one up!

Bon appetit.

HYUNDAI Motor America and Rockstar Performance Garage have joined forces to develop a Santa Fe SUV concept powered by nitrous.

The wild concept utilises a Hyundai-based 3.3-litre Lambda V6 engine – powered by the nitrous-oxide injection system – which is aided by an AEM cold-air intake system and a Mishimoto cooling system.

This set-up drives all four wheels and certifies the vehicle as a remote-area tourer, capable of covering the harshest terrain.

To thrive on the bumpy stuff, Rockstar Performance Garage slotted in 2.0 King coil-overs up front and 2.5 King shocks (with finned reservoir) down back. The custom suspension set-up also features new tie-rods and control arms.

The concept rides on Mickey Thompson Baja Claw 35in off-road tyres wrapped around 17in off-road KMC XD 301 Turbine beadlock wheels. It also features a wheel clearance expansion set-up.

“Rockstar conveys its endless brand energy in everything we do,” said Nick Ashby, lead developer of the Rockstar concept vehicle. “Our Rockstar Santa Fe concept is simultaneously all-show and all-go, a non-compromising concept with tremendous capabilities and a confident demeanour to match.”

Further key modifications to the Santa Fe concept include: Nology high-performance wires, Odyssey batteries, Nitro Gear gears, a Magnaflow custom exhaust, rock sliders, bumpers, a custom roof rack, head-lamps, tail-lamps, Bulldog LED lighting rounds, a Warn winch, and a Kicker audio system.

The Santa Fe SUV concept will make an appearance at the 2016 SEMA show, which runs from November 1-4.

Stay tuned to 4x4australia.com.au during the event for up-to-date coverage.

IT’S that time again, folks. So grab a coffee – or a coldie – and sit back and enjoy the November issue of 4X4 Australia.

Inside you’ll find a killer custom GU Patrol ute that was once a wagon; a four-wagon comparo taking place on the CSR’s red dirt; a custom JK Wrangler that Jeep should have already built; and we take our first dance with the new Trailblazer.

We also reveal which dual-cab ute is the best at towing and carrying heavy loads.

You can grab your copy of 4X4 Australia from newsagents or by subscribing to 4X4 Australia in electronic or print format.

Here’s what’s inside the November issue:

FIRST DRIVES: HOLDEN TRAILBLAZER & GREAT WALL STEED Can two of the newest entries into the 4×4 stables leave lasting impressions?

WILD TRANSFORMATION Nissan GU Patrol cops a ute chop and gets a 5.7-litre LS1 V8.

WHEN THE DUST SETTLES Prado, Fortuner, MU-X and Everest duke it out on the Canning Stock Route.

GOLD NUGGET Murchison Products in Queensland has created a wildly modified JK Wrangler pick-up. We took it for a spurt as part of Murchison/AEV’s weekend expedition.

ULTIMATE LOAD AND TOW TEST We strapped down 800kg in the tray – and then attached a forklift to the towbar – of seven popular dual-cab utes to find out which one has the best pulling power.

ALL ABOARD Following the route of the Old Ghan Railway from Marree to Alice Springs, in a couple of Fords.

DAY TRIPPIN’ Take a day trip from Brisbane to the remote and peaceful Conondale National Park.

GREAT LAKES Pack the togs and fishing gear, and head to the Great Lakes region of NSW.

4X4 GARAGE: DANA AUSTRALIA Part 1 of the 4X4 Garage takes us to event sponsor Dana Australia’s Melbourne facility.

THE REST We put more aftermarket products under the microscope, plus we catch up with three generations of workers at Berrima Diesel in NSW. We explain how to safely and easily clear a path with a chainsaw, and we also provide an in-depth look at differentials. Ron Moon tackles the feral dog dilemma, Dean Mellor explains how classic 4x4s are making a comeback, Roothy jumps from swags to rooftop campers, and Fraser takes a look at Infiniti’s variable compression ratio engine. Plus, there’s heaps more inside!

So many people tell me I have the best job in the world because I get to drive all these flash 4×4 vehicles and visit so many amazing places.

They’re probably right, as it’s not a bad gig at all. One thing I truly enjoy, and one that many folks don’t see, is the amount of clever and innovate products we get to play with.

Gear for 4x4s, kit for camping, outdoor clothing, technology, the list goes on. It’s amazing just how much of it is designed and made right here in Australia.

Here at 4×4 Australia we’re pretty proud of the fact that our magazine, the one you’re reading right now, is produced in Melbourne and printed in Sydney; keeping Australians in jobs and allowing us to deliver the best product possible. You might be surprised how many supposedly Australian magazines and newspapers are not wholly produced here.

Yes, we often bring you off-road trips from other countries because many people like to broaden their horizon and travels by exploring other places and cultures.

Sure, we use and review some products that are not made here, but at the end of the day we’d always recommend a locally made piece of gear over anything else; so long as it’s as good if not better than the overseas stuff.

That’s one of the best things about working on an independent 4×4 magazine. We don’t try and sell you anything but our magazine. We don’t import cheap products and try to sell them up against the superior Australian engineered and/or made stuff. We don’t have to bow to the will of any sponsors or owners. 4×4 Australia is its own thing – independent, unbiased and proudly Australian produced.

If you dig into the world of publishing you’d find that 4×4 Australia is owned by Bauer, a huge German family-owned media company. But that doesn’t really effect what we do here at the coal face. We can still call things as we see them and say what we think about vehicles, places, products, whatever. If something is crap or not up to spec, we’ll say it is so long as we can justify our comments. If that costs us an advertiser then so be it. If the product doesn’t deliver what it should or claims to, then they need to lift their game.

Likewise we’ll look at products we like from companies or manufacturers that don’t advertise in our magazine. If it’s good stuff, does what it should and we like it, then we’ll say as much.

That’s the beauty of being truly independent; the people that write the words you read on these pages, or on our website, don’t kowtow to anyone. It’s something few publications can honestly do today and we appreciate that freedom. I hope you appreciate what it allows us to give you.