IT’S BEEN a few years in the wilderness for Holden with its Colorado. On paper, the dual-cab ute has looked the business, but slip behind the wheel and it’s been far less convincing, something that was in sharp focus following the arrival of impressive newcomers from the likes of Volkswagen, Ford and Mazda.

Blame it on the GFC and cost-cutting by Holden’s parent company General Motors in the wake of its much publicised bankruptcy. In short, the Colorado was half-baked. Colorado sales haven’t been pummelled as much as may have been expected, but put that down to the strength of the brand, aggressive marketing and some tempting deals.

Now Holden is hoping the product can speak for itself off the back of this heavily revised model, which is no longer a ute but a truck … apparently. The basic body is unchanged, with a mild freshen up to the styling at the front and a new rear bumper. But beneath the skin, engineers have been hard at work to improve refinement and driving manners, while some extra tech and equipment sweeten the showroom deal.

For this test we’ve put it up against the sales leader, Toyota’s Hilux, a car that took top honours in our most recent ute comparison test. To match it against the Colorado Z71 we’ve gone for the top of the Hilux tree, the SR5.

TOYOTA HILUX SR5

TOYOTA’S Hilux has plenty to defend. It’s been the top seller for decades, but in 2016 it’s come under more pressure than ever thanks to an attack by the Ford Ranger. Nevertheless, the Hilux remains the top seller in the class to July 2016, something bolstered by the arrival of this new model late in 2015.

WHAT YOU GET STEPPING into the flagship SR5 Hilux is a $56,390 proposition once you factor in the six-speed auto. For that you get a generous spread of sat-nav, digital radio, auto lights, auto air-conditioning and a seven-inch touchscreen. The Hilux also gets smart-key entry and push-button start, although the proximity key requires you to press a button on the front door handles to unlock it. A recent update adds the drawbar for the tow bar, though you still have to pay extra for the tongue and wiring.

Leather is part of the $2000 Plus pack that also brings an electric driver’s seat.POWERTRAIN AND PERFORMANCE FOR AN all-new engine, the 2.8-litre donk that slots under the bonnet of the Hilux, Fortuner and Prado is nothing to get excited about on paper. There’s 130kW to play with, along with a more convincing 450Nm.

It’s that torque and a well-mated six-speed transmission that endows the Hilux with solid performance. The torque peak arrives at just 1600rpm, so there’s plenty to play with without high revs. The transmission works with it nicely, with the torque converter slipping to help it settle into that sweet spot in the revs.

Push on and the Hilux’s four-pot also revs cleanly, ensuring decent, if not scintillating, performance. It’s also relatively refined for comfortable touring, while impressive claimed fuel use of 8.5L/100km ensures it’s a decent all-rounder.

HANDLING AND RIDE THE Hilux feels stout and sturdy. The suspension is firm, particularly in the rear end, where successive high-speed bumps can have occupants jiggling around. Big hits, though, are shrugged off with ease, reinforcing the Hilux’s tough image. We’ve done plenty of driving with hundreds of kilos in the tray and the pay-off is in its ability to maintain composure when carrying a decent load.

No excuses for the hydrailically-assisted steering, though. It’s quite light, making for easy low-speed manoeuvring, but the downside is minimal feel at speed; not much of an issue on a freeway, but less endearing on snaking country roads where it’s difficult to get a taste for what’s going on at ground level.

Fortunately the whole thing is controlled well enough and the Hilux remains faithful and predictable in a wide range of conditions. The Dunlop Grandtrek tyres also provide respectable on-road grip.

When it comes to loads, the Hilux lags, although for most people not in a game- changing way; its 3200kg towing capacity (300kg less than the manual) trails class leaders, and the 925kg payload falls short of the tonne.

OFF-ROAD OFF-ROAD is where the Hilux wins back big points, and it starts with the basic hardware. Toyota has popped solid steel protection underneath, as well as 225mm of ground clearance along with an excellent 700mm of wading depth.

Toyota has also put plenty of effort into the basic design. Like most dual-cabs, the rear overhang means it’ll scuff its tail on steeper stuff, but the tow bar brackets bear the brunt, while the rear bumper is tucked well out of the way. Up front, too, the protruding snout has enough of an angle to it so you can attack some seriously steep pinches.

The part-time four-wheel drive system has a good reduction gear for slow speed work, and it doesn’t take long to establish that the traction control is beautifully calibrated. Sure, it’ll spin wheels, but with brakes quickly applied it soon sorts out where the traction is.

We tried it through a sloppy mud hole and while it was threatening to get bogged, it trudged on, helped by engaging the rear diff lock, which eked out the last hints of traction to help it scramble its way out. Up a tricky rocky climb, too, the Hilux simply worked its way over each obstacle, pausing occasionally but easily ambling up. Combined with great articulation, it makes for an impressive off-roader.CABIN AND ACCOMMODATION

TOYOTA has done a great job with comfortable yet supportive pews. It’s the start of a good driving position that includes full adjustability to the steering wheel and decent vision. We’re less convinced by the touchscreen, with its push buttons and shiny screen that easily collects dust.

Slide into the back seat and the Hilux is less accommodating. The rear seat is quite upright, something that encroaches on head room. At least there are sizeable grab handles to make it easier to drag yourself in there.

SUM UP THE Hilux is a solid ute that gets better the more you punish it. Yet despite its reputation for ruggedness and reliability, it’s losing market share. Blame that on improvements in the competition and also a realisation that other brands make tough trucks. Still, there’s plenty to like about the Hilux.

HOLDEN COLORADO ZY1

Scroll down the specs list suggests Holden’s taking few gambles with this latest Colorado. Even in LTZ trim it’s well catered for, matching the SR5 for basic amenities but upping the touchscreen to eight inches, while also throwing in Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, which allow the use of some apps through the screen.

Step up to the Z71, at $54,990, and you also get a tonneau cover and leather trim. The black wheels, mirror caps, door handles and bonnet stickers also give it some bush bling, while the body coloured sports bar is a welcome change from the long-favoured chrome.POWERTRAIN AND PERFORMANCE Engine changes for the Colorado are limited to refinement and meeting next level of emissions standards, so no changes to the 147kW and 500Nm peaks from the 2.8-litre engine sourced from Italy’s VM Motori.

Not that it desperately needed more grunt. The 500Nm on offer ensures there’s substantial thrust, something accentuated by the new torque converter that locks up at very low revs. On a country road it will effortlessly rely on its low rev pull, holding 1600rpm or 1800rpm without complaint. By the time the full force arrives at 2000rpm the Colorado has a performance edge.

Having that direct link between your right foot and a substantial pool of torque somehow accentuates the feeling that there’s plenty on offer, but it’s all about the mid-range. Rev it harder and the 147kW will briefly make itself known before the transmission steps up a ratio. That six-speed does a slick job shifting between gears, too, decisively and smoothly plucking the right one.

It’s not the quietest engine around but is a huge step up on where the Colorado has been. At an official 8.7L/100km, fuel use is slightly up on the Hilux – although not to the point of being any serious disadvantage.HANDLING AND RIDE Extensive work has been done on the Colorado’s on-road manners, and it shows. Key to the changes are a revised steering ratio that ensures sharper responses. Combined with a new electric power steering system, it makes for more consistent and reassuring feedback. The Colorado builds nice weight through flowing corners, while remaining light during low-speed manoeuvring.

The Colorado now behaves well over bumps, too. New dampers and a revised rear leaf spring set-up deliver a good blend between comfort and control. It’ll still bound around in the rear over repeated bumps and is no Amarok in its outright comfort, but it settles quickly and still performs well with weight in the tray. The 18-inch Bridgestone rubber is also worth a mention, with revisions bringing decent levels of grip that add to the overall confidence.

That the Colorado also has impressive load figures is a win; at 1007kg it’s rated to carry 82kg more than the Hilux, and its 3500kg tow capacity matches the class leaders.

OFF-ROAD The area that’s received little attention with the Colorado is its off-road ability. Tweaks to the traction control calibration are about it. That means the same 222mm of ground clearance – a whisker shy of the Hilux’s – the same 600mm wading depth and the same part-time four-wheel drive system.

In medium terrain the Colorado performs well, scrabbling up rocky trails and slushing through mud, but push it harder and its limits become clearer.

The traction control, for example, isn’t as smart at figuring out which wheels have traction, which can lead to excessive wheelspin. On one extreme hill climb the Colorado simply wouldn’t crest it; the wheelspin it induced slid it sideways on to another part of the track that was impassable. After three attempts we gave up.

Through mud, too, it really could have done with a locking rear diff. The limited slip diff has advantages in some situations, but it was momentum that ultimately got us out of a bog.

However, the Hill Descent Control system is excellent; engage it and you can easily adjust the set speed by accelerating or braking. It’s super-simple and very effective, snorting away like a rhino clearing its nose as the system automatically grabs brakes on steep drops. Yet the Colorado’s basics aren’t as well thought-out as those in the Hilux. The approach angle, for example, is 28.6 degrees, which is excellent but slightly shy of its rival.

But it’s the tail that needs more thought. The departure angle is 23.2 degrees (versus the Hilux at 26) and the step on the bumper is ready to catch whatever it is you’re coming off, which in turn could lead to broader bumper damage. It’s not an ideal set-up and one that requires caution when positioning the tail.

Underneath, too, the plastic protection towards the front of the undertray isn’t as sturdy as the steel on the Hilux.CABIN AND ACCOMMODATION

The Colorado is a mixed bag inside. It’s ergonomically superior to the Hilux thanks to its prominent audio buttons, and the layout is fresh and user friendly, sitting relatively high on the centre console. The sizeable icons on the touchscreen are also more logical, while the smartphone connectivity is a win.

But it sheds some points once you settle into the front seats. Lateral support isn’t great, and the steering wheel doesn’t adjust for reach, making it harder to fine-tune a comfortable position. It’s only a minor gripe, but the indicator stalk is too far from the steering wheel, too.

In the rear, there are no grab handles for getting in, but once there there’s a fraction more headroom than in the Hilux; in part because the angle of the seatback is greater, something that has advantages for longer journeys.SUM UP If points were awarded for improvements the Colorado would be a class standout, but the reality is that these changes bring the Colorado into the mix with the class leaders. Performance, on-road dynamics and value are its standouts, although there’s room for improvement when it comes to off-road smarts.

THE VERDICT It’s been a long time since we’ve had so many good things to say about a Colorado, but the updated model is a big improvement. For the first time in a long time the Colorado deserves to be taken seriously. It’s a great ute … sorry, truck.

And while there’s room to improve its off-road nous, it’s still a capable vehicle in the rough stuff. For much outback touring and the majority of off-road work it’ll match the Toyota Hilux.

But if you really want to get serious off-road then the Hilux is still tough to beat. Clever design and engineering makes it a seriously impressive vehicle over challenging obstacles. Ultimately, though, the aftermarket will cater for some of the Colorado’s oversights for those looking to more seriously test it.For most people, most of the time the Colorado is a more complete machine, one that delivers with on-road poise and ability. Plus, you get more for your money.

To watch how they performed head-to-head view the video of the Holden Colorado challenging the Toyota Hilux.

SPECS

As 4WDers, our off-road adventures can lead us to some pretty spectacular places. To get to the best of them usually means you’ve got to tackle some pretty hard-going terrain, which is why we have 4x4s in the first place.

The problem is, things such as soft sand, heavy loads and hot climates can really get your engine working overtime, which puts its cooling system to the test. And when you’re in the middle of nowhere, the last thing you want is for your engine to overheat and call it quits; it doesn’t take long for heat to destroy an engine.

To help you catch and fix any cooling issues that arise while you’re out on the tracks, here are some proven tips, tricks, techniques and fair-dinkum bush fixes to get you back out there exploring once again.

MAKESHIFT FAN BELTS

If you snap your water pump’s drive belt, there are a few ways to construct a makeshift replacement. The material you use needs to have enough grip to rotate the pulleys, while also being durable enough to be tightened up without stretching and breaking.

One proven material to use is some old pantyhose – simply twist them up, wrap them around the pulleys nice and tight, and tie the ends together. Alternatively, a leather belt, dog lead, bailing twine or a nylon strap will get the job done. Remember to back the adjusters off before you start, so you can adjust it tighter after you tie the knot.

LEAKY HOSES

There are a few different options when it comes to patching up a leaking hose, but one of the simplest methods is the old soft-drink-can trick. For this, you simply cut the can into a strip, wrap it tight around the punctured area and secure it with hose clamps – even cable ties will work in a pinch. Adding a dab of sealant on top works a treat, too. Another technique is to cut the punctured bit out and re-join the hose via a pipe with hose clamps.

Get creative here – you’ll have all sorts of things lying around that can get the job done – a pen housing for small hoses, a generic handpump tap nozzle or even a piece of a camp chair leg can be cut down and used.

TEMP GAUGE ACCURACY

It may seem crazy but some factory temperature gauges aren’t designed to give you an accurate reading. For example, the needle on your typical 80-series LandCrusier gauge will sit around halfway, while the actual temperature could really range anywhere from 40-100°C.

Manufacturers do this so we don’t get too concerned about completely normal momentary temperature spikes. However, it does mean your engine could be running hotter than usual, and you wouldn’t have a clue until it overheats. Fitting a secondary aftermarket gauge means you can monitor exactly where your engine temps are at and catch a potential problem early.

RADIATOR TUBE REPAIRS

If a stick manages to fling up and damage your radiator’s main tubes (they hold the coolant) you’ll end up with a leak. For smaller punctures, you might get away with smearing some sealant or epoxy putty over the hole. However, for badly damaged tubes, you’ll most likely have to remove the radiator to gain better access. The idea is to sever the damaged tubes in half, roll up the ends and reseal. Then use sealant or epoxy putty to keep it wound tight.

BLOCKED THERMOSTAT

The purpose of a thermostat is to regulate the flow of the water in your engine’s cooling system. It does this by blocking the flow altogether when the engine is cold, so the water doesn’t circulate through the radiator and get cooled by the flow of air. As the engine heats up, the thermostat opens and allows water to circulate through the radiator for cooling. This means that both the inlet and outlet coolant hoses should be hot to touch when the engine is at operating temperature.

If one of the hoses is hot and the other is still cool, it indicates that the thermostat is stuck closed. To get you out of trouble, the easiest fix is to simply remove the thermostat altogether. In fact, in most cases, the engine will run cooler than it ever has – too cool to be a permanent modification.

BLOCKED RADIATORS

A tell-tale sign that a blocked radiator is causing your overheating issues is when your temperature creeps up while you’re driving at highway speeds (80-110km/h). The airflow at these speeds should generally be enough to keep the coolant cool.

If you’ve been rolling through thick spinifex (especially up north) remember to give the front of the radiator a blast with compressed air when you get back to camp.

Similarly, if you’ve been playing in the mud, give it a thorough clean with fresh water (using high pressure will damage the radiator fins). And if you’re running a large set of spotlights on the bullbar, try removing them as they can block the radiator’s surface area and restrict airflow more than you’d think.

TYRE PRESSURES

WE all know that appropriate tyre pressures are a big part of four-wheel driving, but did you know that tyre pressure can have an effect on how hot your engine runs? Yep, it’s true – especially when you’re tackling soft sand for a prolonged period of time.

I did a test a little while back where I set my tyre pressures to 19psi and drove on soft sand for 5km. The engine temperature got up to 98°C. I then dropped the tyre pressures down to 14psi and drove the same stretch of sand. The engine temperature sat between 80 and 85°C – that’s a massive difference! That little experiment proved that lowering my tyre pressures by 5psi allowed my engine to run 14°C cooler.

How does it do this? Well, lower pressures create a larger tyre footprint, so tyres float across the top of the sand instead of digging down and making your engine work harder.

ANTI-FREEZE ADDITIVES

It might seem unlikely but it’s actually pretty common to see a punctured and leaking radiator when you’re travelling through sub-zero climates. The reason is simple – if the fluid in your cooling system gets cold enough to freeze, the water will turn to ice and expand, which can rupture the tubes in your radiator. So it’s super-important to run a quality anti-freeze additive to lower the freezing point of the coolant.

COOLING AN OVERHEATING ENGINE Turn your heater and fan on full – it sounds crazy but hear me out. The heater basically redirects engine and engine bay heat to the outside of your vehicle. At the same time, turn your air-conditioning off, as that places more load on your engine.

Most 4WDs have belt-driven water pumps that run directly off the engine’s crankshaft, which means the higher the revs, the faster the water pump and fan assembly spin. So if you find yourself stuck in slow-moving traffic, steadily increasing your engine’s revs to around 2000rpm will help draw in more air through the radiator to cool the engine quicker.

Vehicles with air-conditioning have an extra fan for the condenser. In extreme scenarios, one option is to power up this fan by rigging it up to a separate circuit. Remember to use a 12-volt relay and a cable large enough to handle the fan’s current draw, and check the polarity is correct so the fan spins the right way.

PARTING THOUGHTS If you end up facing a cooling system problem out in the scrub, you’ll need to assess each situation on its own merits, as every vehicle is different, and every location adds a whole new challenge to overcome. Start with the basics and use a bit of common sense. Work out whether the vehicle is drivable or needs to be towed. If you’re going to risk driving it, lighten the load, hitch the camper on the back of your mate’s 4WD, ensure the coolant level is topped up, remove the spot lights and bug catcher that almost always block the wind from penetrating your radiator, and wait to travel when it cools off in the arvo. With a bit of knowledge and lateral thinking, you can get yourself back on track and back in the game in no time at all.

The semi-arid Sturt National Park in New South Wales is one of Australia’s largest nature reserves, and one of the most accessible. The park borders Corner Country, the north-west corner of New South Wales which joins with Queensland and South Australia.

This article was originally published in the June 2014 issue of 4×4 Australia.

This intersection, marked as Cameron Corner, is the perfect place to start your exploration of Sturt National Park if coming from the west.

The famous marker is located right beside the Dingo Fence, the world’s longest fence, spanning 5614km from the Darling Downs to the Great Australian Bight on the cliffs of the Nullabor. There is plenty of information on a billboard next to the marker that gives insightful and practical information for tourers.

From Cameron Corner you pass through the gate in the Dingo Fence, driving from the South Australian border into Sturt National Park and New South Wales.

Large red sand dunes that sit four meters high, expansive clay pans and small rocky gorges are just some of the fascinating wonders you will see on your travels. Aside from its aesthetic beauty, the park also plays a significant role historically – it was the setting for some of the most important events in the history of the early exploration of inland Australia.

The park is named after explorer Charles Sturt, one of the most famous pioneers in Australian history. In 1844 he pioneered sections of this land as part of his exploration of the Simpson Desert area. He also spent six months trapped by drought at Depot Glen, south of Tibooburra, before travelling north-west until he was finally stopped by the harshness of the desert environment.

Burke and Wills also went through the area in 1861 on their journey north towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. As it turned out, it was the search for the lost explorers that led to opening up the country for the pastoral industry.

Sturt National Park also holds special significance for the local Aboriginal people. Numerous historical and cultural sites are found in the area. This is Wongkumara, Wadigali and Malyangapa country.

As you drive through Sturt National Park you will experience the harsh reality and extreme beauty of the Australian outback. Kangaroos, emus and the majestic wedge-tailed eagles are all regular fauna in this area.

THE DRIVE

The route from Cameron Corner to Tibooburra totals 139km of dusty outback track. The drive will take you through a diverse landscape including the Waka Clay Pan, sand dunes and Fort Grey, which was a provisions stockade built by Charles Sturt to support his inland expeditions.

The Waka Clay Pan is a spectacular flat when dry and sits about 50km from The Corner. When filled with water, this clay pan will require a detour, otherwise you will risk getting bogged, but the area comes as an unexpected sight in this dry landscape.

Geologically, a clay pan is a compact layer in the subsoil with a much higher clay content than the overlying material. Clay pans are usually hard when dry and sticky when wet, so avoid entering them with your vehicle when there has been some rain. They provide a natural flat structure for the storage of water and facilitate the provision of a habitat necessary for the life of many plants and animals.

Examples of the animals and living organisms that call the clay pans home are shield shrimp and desert fish. Frogs also bury themselves in moist areas well below ground and then come to the surface to feed and breed when it’s wet.

However, when the clay pan is dry, it’s as hard as rock and can be a lot of fun driving over. It’s a bit like playing out a scene in one of the Mad Max movies, particularly when you bomb along the vast plain leaving nothing but a large red dust cloud behind your vehicle. From there, it’s another 90km of scenic driving to Tibooburra. There are plenty of places to pull over for lunch along this track, so take the time to embrace this beautiful but remote land.

Tibooburra is one of the far west villages of New South Wales. The small settlement is less than 1300km from Sydney and is often referred to as one of the hottest places in Outback NSW.

The town has a few quirky pubs and The Family Hotel (built in 1882) is a must see. It has a wall decorated with works from some of Australia’s most famous artists, with many memorable images painted on the interior walls. Clifton Pugh stayed there and painted a number of murals on an inside wall of the hotel that can still be seen today.

There are several options for camping in this area, including hotels and motels for those looking for a bit more comfort, but you can’t go past camping beneath the stars and watching the amazing bright orange sunset. The campsite is located across from the fuel station on the outskirts of town and provides all the basic amenities, including welcome hot showers.

While Tibooburra is a small town, there is usually plenty of activity about the place, with the pubs full of fly-in miners, passing tourers and locals.

Sturt National Park is a great destination for those who want to experience Outback Australia. A trip to this area will not leave you disappointed.

TRAVEL PLANNER

• STAYING THERE: The Tiboobura campsite is just a five minute walk from the town centre. All of the basic amenities are provided, including hot showers. An alternative is the Dead Horse Gully campground, about 1.5km from the town of Tibooburra. Camping fees: $5 per adult per night. $3 per child per night.
• FEES & OPENING HOURS: Sturt National Park only closes due to poor weather or potential fire danger. Vehicle entry fees are an affordable $7 per vehicle per day. If you are planning to explore this part of Australia, another option – and possibly the most economical way for extended tourers – is to purchase an annual Desert Parks Pass. This 12-month permit grants you unlimited access to all conservation parks and national park regions within the area of South Australia, Northern Territory and Queensland.
• ROAD CONDITIONS: It is always advisable to check road conditions before departing. Road closures may apply during and after wet weather, with tracks often being impassable after heavy downpours.Watch for oncoming vehicles. when driving over the crests of sand dunes
• FUEL & SUPPLIES: It is worth noting that the track from Cameron’s Corner to Tibooburra is approximately 140km through remote country with nothing in between the two settlements. Fuel and basic supplies are available in both Cameron’s Corner and Tibooburra, but expect to pay higher rates per litre of fuel.
• BEST TIME TO VISIT: The cooler months are definitely the best time to visit.

CONTACTS AND INFORMATION

Tibooburra Visitor Information Centre:

• Phone: (08) 8091 3308
• Web: www.tibooburra.org/npws.html

National Parks and Wildlife Service

• Phone: (08) 8091 3308

The Granites Caravan Park

• Telephone: (08) 8091 3305

THINGS are looking rosy for tailgate specialists EZDown Australia, with the company experiencing dramatic growth over the past few months.

The Australian company has expanded from being purely an online-based company to now having manufacturers requesting the EZDown be fitted on vehicles on the production line (and pre-delivery).

Mazda is currently the only Australian car company offering the EZDown as a factory accessory; however EZDown Australia is in the process of coming to an agreement with three more (as yet unnamed) manufacturers.

Globally, however, EZDown has the market covered in South Africa, Chile and Europe. While in South Africa the EZDown is a genuine option with Volkswagen, Ford, Mazda and Toyota.

The company has also started manufacturing a hood assist lift called EZ-Up, which is assisted by Dynamic Gas charged bonnet struts. EZ-Up is currently offered for the VW Amarok, and it’s in the final testing stages for use with the D-Max, Colorado and Triton.

The tailgate specialists recently released the New Hilux EZDown, while the NP300 EZDown is due to hit the market before the end of the year.

The trademark tailgate dampers absorb the speed of a tailgate descent and prevent it from crashing down in a flurry – thus preventing the little ones from copping a knock on the scone. All required hardware is included and each kit is user-specific to that model vehicle.

EZDown Australia’s Managing Director, Tristan Gibbons, is proud of the company’s growth thus far, and it shows with its large and constantly growing dealer network – its product is shifted all over Australia, every day. EZDown Australia has ambitions to become solidly embedded within the 4×4 accessories market as a “must-have” accessory within the next two years.

EZDown manufacturing is also currently working on a very exciting product, so keep your eyes on the EZDown and prepare yourself to be left in awe. 4X4 Australia will have the exclusive first release when they come to market!

And remember, when you order your new ute, tell the Dealer you want an EZDown fitted to the tailgate! Once you’ve had one, you’ll never own another ute without one!

CONTACT EZDOWN AUSTRALIA Website: www.ezdown.com.au Phone: 0408 039 675

EAGER eyes may have noticed that Roothy has served up a Mango Chicken dish before on these pages.

However, this one’s a bit different and even easier to put together!

Not a fan of mangos or chicken? Perhaps you’d prefer these recipes: Scotch Eggs, Spanish Omelette, or Ginger Fish.

Before you get to camp, pick up some chicken breast fillets from the supermarket and/or butcher when you’re in town, and keep them stored in the Engel.

Cut the skinless (if so desired) chicken into cubes and throw into an oil-filled frying pan. Splash on some soy sauce to enrich the flavour and cook through until the chicken browns (ensure it’s not pink on the inside).

To get the mango flavour, the trick is to add a few tablespoons of mango chutney. Next, add a fair bit of coconut milk/cream and a hint of lime juice.

Finally, let it simmer away to get the flavours flowing through the chicken. It’s as easy as that.

Works best with a side of steamed rice! Bush cooking at its finest. Little ripper!

When it comes to lengthy outback trips, mechanical breakages and general servicing are just part of the game. Even if your vehicle has been running like an absolute freight train, you never know when you’ll happen across another traveller who hasn’t shared your good fortune.

A little extra bush-mechanic knowledge can really help get someone out of strife. Plus, if experience has taught us anything, it’s that the little things usually end up causing the biggest problems in the long run.

With that in mind, here are a few common problems to keep an eye out for while you’re out on the road, along with some mighty helpful bush fixes.

STRANDED TRAVELLERS

On my way south on the Developmental Road up in Cape York I came across three fellas in an old LandCruiser who were stuck dead-set in the middle of the road. The rear diff had called it quits and completely locked up, preventing the wheels from spinning altogether.

Sounds pretty bad, eh? Well, it was. But that didn’t mean it was game over. In this situation, there are a few steps involved to get the vehicle mobile again. The idea is to basically completely disable and disconnect the seized rear diff from the rest of the driveline, and drive it to the closest town using the front diff (front-wheel drive) only.

To do this we removed the rear axles, which on the old Cruiser was a matter of simply removing the axle nuts and collets before sliding out the axle. Doing this basically disconnects the seized diff from the wheels and wheel bearings so that they can spin (roll) freely, which we checked once it was jacked up.

The end of the axle also acts as a dust cover for the wheel bearings, so we decided to make a makeshift bearing cap by cutting an old plastic Two Fruits container in half and duct-taping it around the hub.

It was then time to disconnect drive from the transfer case to the rear diff by removing the rear tailshaft altogether. Then it was a matter of locking in the hubs, selecting 4WD and trying your luck – worked a charm!

FINDING A LEAK

One of the most common problems to come across is a tyre with a slow leak. This is one of those small annoyances that can cause bigger problems down the track if you don’t catch it early. If you let it get worse, it gets flatter and ends up shredding the tyre, which destroys it altogether.

There are a few ways to find a small leak, the most popular being the soapy water method. Simply spray soapy water over the fully inflated tyre and watch for air bubbles.

If you don’t have soapy water, or you can’t spot the leak, the next best method is to find a clear river or stream and completely submerge the wheel and tyre, then watch carefully for any air bubbles and track it down from there. Pay particular attention to the tyre bead and the valve.

WHEEL BEARINGS

I’ve got little habit that helps me keep a close eye on my wheel bearings. All I do is make sure I check the wheel bearings every fuel stop as soon as I jump out of the car. I look for any visual signs like grease spray on the rim. Then I’ll put the back of my hand against the top of the tyre to feel how hot it is – a warm tyre could also indicate an underinflated tyre. Then I’ll edge my hand closer until it touches the bearing cap. Warm bearings aren’t an issue, but if they’re too hot to touch or hold you know you’ve got a problem.

If you’ve been braking heavily the whole assembly could also heat up the bearings, so it’s a good time to stop for a break if they’re getting too hot. I also do a basic check for free play by grabbing the top of the tyre and pulling it back sharply towards me – trust me, you’ll know when it’s loose.

THE SPANNER RUN

Corrugations play havoc on nuts and bolts. So every few days, it’s a wise idea to go over and under your 4WD and run a spanner over any nuts and bolts.

Over time, you’ll get to know which bolts commonly come loose. I’ve found on both my Cruisers that the axle studs, kingpin bearings and tailshaft bolts all tend to loosen up. Plus, the front diff bolts and shock mount bolts need to be tightened every 10,000 kays or so. This simple preventative maintenence could save you from bigger problems down the track.

COUPLING NUT

If there’s one thing I’ve learnt over the past few years, it’s to check the tow coupling nut hasn’t come loose, particularly on the poly-block coupling. The bolt thread on older couplings can stretch over time, while cheaper imported products often use poor quality steel that stretches prematurely.

As a result, after a few days of travel, I like to nip up the nut and make sure it’s nice and tight. It’s also a good idea to apply a thread locker additive on the thread to add some extra strength and grip. However, on a recent trip this wasn’t enough, so I had to install a second nut and lock them tightly together until I could source a replacement.

If the coupling gets damaged altogether, a last resort is to remove it completely and keep the poly block attached using the pin, a peg and a good-sized washer.

REAR SPRINGS

One of the most common problems for late-model utes is overloaded rear springs and a damaged chassis. It’s surprisingly common for the rear leaf springs to completely invert. In most cases you can continue driving the vehicle to the closest town, but there are a few little tricks that can help take the load off the springs.

First, drop tyre pressures nice and low to help smooth out those harsh bumps that springs find it hard to deal with. Secondly, shift the weight around to take the load off the back springs. You can do this by moving stuff in the tray as far forward as possible, while also moving the gear in the trailer further back – or even ditching the extra weight.

In extreme cases, where the spring mount completely fails, you can wrap a heavy-rated ratchet strap around the diff and the leaf-spring mount to stop it moving forward or backwards. Also, wedge a block of wood between the diff and chassis to support the body’s weight. Obviously this is an extreme case to get you to the main track.

TOP TRICKS FOR BEACH CAMPING

SAND PEGS

If your sand pegs don’t cut the mustard, try filling up a plastic bag with sand and burying it with the guy rope attached. This kind of sand anchor works a treat when the wind is up.

UNHITCHING THE CAMPER

When it comes to camping on sand, things tend to get complicated when you unhitch the camper. The problem occurs when you try to hitch up the trailer and both the jockey wheel and the 4×4’s wheels sink in the sand and won’t go where you need them to. A top little trick is to carry a couple of planks of wood to place under the camper’s wheels and the jockey wheel. It allows you to move the camper around a lot more easily, which is helpful when the ball is within inches of the hitch.

THE quoted towing capacities of the current crop of 4×4 utes have become chest-beating exercises for the carmakers’ marketing departments.

It appears that if you can’t quote a 3500kg capacity then you’re not in the game, and some companies have pushed up their ratings in recent times just to seem relevant. Even usually conservative Toyota has upped the ratings of the Hilux to 3500kg, but that’s only for the manual transmission – the auto has to make do with 3200kg.

Yet, as revealed in our tow and load test in the November issue of 4X4 Australia, the Hilux feels comfortable with three tonnes on the back; some of the other utes shouldn’t go near that weight.

In some ways the results were as expected: bigger is better when it comes to towing and load carrying, and a bigger, heavier vehicle powered by a large capacity engine and riding on a long, stable wheelbase will always come out the winner over anything running smaller and lower specifications.

The vehicle whose performance we were all keen to see tested was the D23 Nissan Navara. As the only ute here with a coil-sprung, multi-link rear end it was the stand out. As it turned out, it stood out for all the wrong reasons. Nissan should be applauded for offering the option of rear coils on its ute to appeal to family and recreational users, but it seems it should also offer the option of leaf springs across the model range.

Single- and king-cab Navaras come with leaf springs under the back, or you can get a double-cab Navara RX cab-chassis with the low-spec, single-turbo engine. Currently no double-cab Navara ute is offered with the superior load-carrying leaf springs and bi-turbo engine.

That’s the vehicle many recreational buyers who need to tow boats, horse floats or caravans will want if they are considering a Navara, and they’ll want it in [Nissan Navara] ST-X specification, too. It’s something Nissan Australia should seriously be thinking about if it wants to remain competitive in this popular segment.

ON October 15 this year the little seaside town of Lancelin in Western Australia attempted to set a Guinness World Record for the longest 4×4 convoy.

The previous record of 154 vehicles (from a starting field of 411) was set by Abdullah Abdulghani & Bros. Co. in Doha, Qatar, on November 21, 2014.

Hosted by the Lancelin District Community Association, organiser Kym Illman said: “From just one Facebook post on the official Lancelin page a few months ago, we had over 180 people quickly respond and express interest.”

The post generated such a keen interest from the West Australian 4WD fraternity that, “we had to cap the number of entries at 500 cars for this year to ensure the town could handle the influx”.

The day kicked off at 7.00am with breakfast at the Lancelin Beach Hotel for VIP ticket holders, while the incredibly long procession of 4WDs were shuffled into position by marshals for a ‘Show and Shine’ judged by Ray Cully and Mark Haffenden from Eureka 4WD Training.

With a police escort, the nearly 8km-long convoy of vehicles wound their way through the streets of Lancelin before forming rows in the assembly area at the base of the dunes.

At around 1:00pm, an explosion of car horns and cheers sent the convoy off behind an official pace car to control the convoy speed and ensure everyone stayed on the assigned course.

The end result was an impressive 448 vehicles crossing the designated finish line. A spectacular sight to behold and one that can be viewed on 4X4 Australia’s Facebook page.

Congratulations to Lancelin and all those who provided support, including the police, fire and ambulance services, to ensure a safe and steady achievement of the world record.

Organisers will have to wait until Guinness verifies the record before Lancelin can lay claim to the title, but given all the hard work put in to ensure compliance with all the Guinness requirements, it’s certainly looking like the WA 4WD community has driven into the record books.

Keep an eye out for our feature story covering the event in detail.

Check out when we tagged along with the Isuzu I-Venture Club in Lancelin earlier this year.

JEEP has announced it will produce a ute, or pick-up version, of the next model Wrangler, but there are plenty of enthusiasts not willing to wait until 2018 for the factory option.

Vote for Murchison’s Wrangler to decide this year’s Custom 4×4 of the Year.

As always, wherever there are folks looking for something the manufacturers aren’t supplying, you’ll find aftermarket businesses willing to build it for them.

American Expedition Vehicles (AEV) built its first TJ Wrangler ‘Brute’ pick-up for the 2002 SEMA Show in Las Vegas. Jeep was so impressed by the concept it took the Brute back to Detroit to investigate building one at the factory, but with the JK Wrangler already well and truly in the planning stages it decided it was too late to develop a TJ ute. Jeep said it would look at it again for the JK.

AEV took the initiative and began building TJ Brutes for customers who loved the versatility and ability of a Wrangler-based pick-up, especially when combined with one of AEV’s Hemi V8 engine conversions.

AEV’s business boomed with the launch of the JK Wrangler and a host of specialised products designed to make the Jeep more capable and functional wherever its customers’ off-road adventures took them. With rumours of a factory-built JK pick-up still in the background, AEV held off developing a Brute for the new model.

However, when the factory offering didn’t eventuate, the AEV double-cab Brute broke cover in 2011. AEV never officially developed a JK Brute single-cab, and Jeep’s factory JK ute didn’t eventuate either. On the other side of the world a Queensland company finally made it happen.

Murchison Products in Brisbane, a distributor of AEV gear, also builds, maintains and services all manner of Jeep vehicles, from mild to wild. Owner Stuart Murchison had built a couple of TJ Brutes over the years and saw the potential of a JK version. He built a few of what he calls ‘Overlands’, using the Mopar JK8 kit, but they didn’t have the true pick-up style

The gold nugget you see here was originally a JK Unlimited Sport that Stu picked up second-hand for the right price, before it went under the surgeon’s knife in the Murchison workshop.

The body was chopped in half behind the front doors and a new rear panel fabricated from scratch, utilising the JK8 rear window section. With a bit of extra space behind the doors this Overland is an extra-cab more than a true single-cab; although, the space really just allows the seats to sit back, rather than provide much space behind them. The roof section retains the JK’s ‘Freedom’ panels, which can be removed to give the unique Jeep an open-top feel.

The rear cargo tub is a modified AEV TJ Brute item. With no JK Brute available, Stu chose to section the steel TJ tub, widening it 150mm to match the JK’s proportions. Inside, the tub is protected by a spray-on liner, and it also houses the fuel filler for the custom 120-litre tank that sits in the chassis rails. The rear wheel-arch flares are modified Wrangler Unlimited pieces from the donor vehicle.

The cut-and-crafted ute body is accentuated by a host of AEV products, starting with the heat-reduction hood (that’s Jeep-speak for bonnet) that allows hot air to easily exit the engine bay. Helping to get clear air into the engine is an AEV intake, while up front an AEV premium bumper accommodates a Runva winch and a pair of IPF spotties.

You won’t find the paint colour in any Jeep catalogue, it is Range Rover Zanzibar Metallic, adding to this Wrangler’s one-off status.

When you look at the side profile of the JK Brute, you could be excused for thinking the chassis has been lengthened. It hasn’t, but the wheelbase has. With no factory rear wheel-arches to dictate where the wheels should sit, Stu was able to stretch the wheelbase 254mm longer than the standard JKU using Clayton long arm suspension. The cargo tub was modified to have the arches sit in the right place, while long suspension arms allow for longer travel.

The set-up is aided by remote reservoir Fox 2.5 Extreme Racing shocks both front and rear, with Murshison-tuned coil springs. The rear diff is the original Dana 44, albeit equipped with an ARB air locker, 4.10 gears and Dynatrac cover; the front diff is a complete Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 replacement, again featuring the ARB locking differential, plus RCV axles and a high steer arrangement.

Those sexy wheels are 17-inch AEV Salta alloys wrapped in 35-inch BFG muddies. Getting the grunt to those wheels and tyres is the original 2.8-litre turbo-diesel engine that has received a flash-tune tweak to give it some more berries when needed.

Flash-tuning modern 4x4s is a big part of the Murchison business and, even though they can do most brands of vehicle, Jeeps remain the shop’s specialty. Tuning this vehicle supplied an extra 105Nm to those massive 35-inch treads. The grunt feeds back through the factory five-speed automatic transmission, and the combination is sweet both on open roads and bush tracks.

Even though this vehicle has been built to a premium standard, it is all about the functionality of an off-road-capable pick-up. Stu Murchison handed us the keys to the Overland ute on a recent customer drive weekend in South East Queensland, and we were stoked with its quality fit-and-finish, on-highway ride and off-road capability.

From the outside the Jeep looks top-shelf. The quality continues when you slip inside and sit on Jeep seats that have been custom-trimmed in two-tone leather with complementary Overland logos.

Everything works as it should, and the cabin is well-insulated from road noise. Power for highway cruising and overtaking is always on tap, and there’s no noticeable loss pushing the big 35-inch muddies. In fact, when you combine the tuned engine with the lower weight of the ute conversion, this Wrangler boogies along better than any other diesel JK we’ve driven.

The ability doesn’t end where the bitumen stops, as the ute made easy work of the steep and rutted tracks at Swan Gully Off Road Park, where we took it for a couple of days’ fun. Murchison has created a vehicle that not only looks über-cool but functions better than standard in all disciplines – unless you want a four-door five-seater that is. But we all know utes are way cooler.

A good as this golden Jeep is, Stu has bigger fish to fry. A partnership with SCD American Vehicles has a RAM 1500 on the shopping list, so the Jeep has to go. This one-of-a-kind Overland pick-up will soon find a lucky new owner. Give Stu a call if you’re interested.

Vote for Murchison’s Wrangler to decide this year’s Custom 4×4 of the Year.

The launch of the 80 Series Land Cruiser was a big thing back in 1990. It was Toyota’s long-awaited answer to Nissan’s coil-sprung GQ Patrol that had taken the market by storm a couple of years earlier, and would soon become Australia’s biggest-selling four-wheel drive wagon.

This article was originally published in the June 2014 issue of 4×4 Australia.

It was also physically big, much bigger than the 60 Series Cruiser it superseded. Dubbed the breadbox by some because of its rounded edges, the coil-sprung 80 Series was a huge leap forward in both design and technology, and with an expected model cycle of eight years, it had to be.

The 1994-model 80 Series gracing these pages belongs to Darren Vassie and, despite this Cruiser turning 20 this year and with 380,000km on the odo, it’s still a more than capable and comfortable four-wheel drive touring wagon. And that’s exactly what Darren wanted: a reliable family tourer that would have no troubles off road, and would easily deal with mud, sand and water crossings.

Check out the video of Darren Vassie’s Conqueror 80 Series tearing up Fraser Island.

This Cruiser is far from standard. Darren, a fabricator by trade, and also a mechanic, has customised it to perfectly suit his requirements. Almost. The 80 has a turbocharged 1HZ diesel and he wants to change to a V8. “I don’t know when the turbo was installed,” Darren admits. “I’ve had the car for four years and I bought it with the turbo on it.

“I had my own fabrication business, and I now work for Conquerer Australia doing off road camper trailers, so I can use the workshop whenever I want.” This is where he has custom fabricated all sorts of goodies for the Cruiser.

“I’ve done the 50mm body lift, so the chassis rails are still sitting pretty low, but the body’s up,” Darren said. There’s also a 100mm suspension lift and the Cruiser runs Tough Dog springs and Tough Dog adjustable foam cell shocks.

Adding to the impressive appearance of the Cruiser, and its off road capability, are massive 37 x 12.5 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws fitted to Dick Cepek 17 x 9 alloy rims. You might think that the big rubber would take the edge off performance, but Darren’s done plenty of work on the engine.

He said this includes “a custom airbox, and then all the custom pipework, intercooler, that’s all my work, and the intake manifold is all mine as well”. Oh, and he made his own 304-grade stainless-steel exhaust system. Is it loud? “It is, because there’s no muffler in it,” Darren laughs.

Darren has had the Cruiser on the dyno and it makes a respectable 105kW and 456Nm at the wheels, more than enough to handle the big Baja Claws. Nevertheless, he’s also lowered the overall gearing to 4.5:1 from the standard 4:1. “It’s as if it has the standard 32.5-inch tyres on it,” he said. ARB Air Lockers are fitted front and rear.

Despite all the engine mods, accessories and big tyres, Darren said the Cruiser still achieves a touring-friendly 15 litres per 100km fuel use. With his owner-made 150-litre stainless-steel long-range fuel tank, he has a total fuel capacity of 235 litres, he has a touring range of more than 1500km.

Darren also made his own 45-litre water tank, which sits under the rear, along with the custom barwork, including front and rear bumpers, sidesteps and roofrack.

Fitted in the front bar is an Ironman 12,000lb wireless winch, running synthetic rope. Situated neatly atop the bar is a Narva LED light bar, and Narva HID lights also grace the front of the roofrack. There’s a Foxwing awning on one side and a shovel-holder on the other.

Darren also made a boat-loader that is often fitted on the back. “It holds an EzyTopper,” he said. “It’s got a little 4000lb winch on it that pulls the boat up. Once it’s up on the angle, there are a couple of bolts to undo, then the winch rope holds it, then you let the winch rope out.

When the boat hits the ground, you push it right over [so it’s sitting on its keel] and that’s it. To put it back on, just position the ass of the boat to the car, pull the winch cable right over the boat, and the winch pulls the boat back over and up on the boat-loader.”

There are plenty of custom mods on the inside of the Cruiser, too. “Everything is custom made. I’ve done all there is. The drawer system on the left is made out of steel frame – it’s got the fridge in it – and then the pantry drawer on the right is marine ply and the rest of it’s all steel mesh. It’s fully enclosed. There’s no cargo barrier, but the way I’ve made it, nothing can fly forward.”

One job Darren outsourced was the customising of the seats. “There are three TV screens. I’ve got an Axis head unit, which is a DVD player as well, and it feeds the two TVs in the back. They’re all custom-made headrests – of course, I didn’t do those – the seats have been reshaped and the lumbar support has been built up in them.” And sitting between the two front seats is an eight-litre Waeco cooler.

Darren reckons the total build cost of this vehicle is only about $20,000 to date. Not bad considering the amount of work done to it, but understandable considering he’s done 80 per cent of the work himself. However, as mentioned, it’s still not quite perfectly suited to his needs.

“I’m looking at going around Australia in three years time and building my own caravan. It’ll be a two and a half tonne caravan, so that’s why I want to do a V8 conversion.

“I’m looking at buying a rolled or a salvaged 76 [Series Land Cruiser], but I’m going to twin-turbo the motor. I’m an old drag racer. I build all my own exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds and do all my own intercooler systems and what not, so I’m looking at doing all that myself, and fitting it in the car myself. You can pick up a salvage [76 TDV8] for around 10 grand whereas you’re looking at around $25K for a 200 Series.

“I’ll be stripping the motor out of it. They’re coming out with aftermarket computer systems for diesels now, so I won’t use any of the original Toyota stuff. We’ll have a fully programmable computer in it, and that’s where we’ll get our power from. They reckon that 400hp (300kW) is going to be pretty easy with a twin three-inch exhaust system.

“I’m going to put in twin four-inch snorkels and twin air cleaners, so it’ll look pretty cool.” It looks like this 80 Series has plenty of life in it yet.

SPECIFICATIONS 1994 TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 80 SERIES

Owner: Darren Vassie, Qld Engine: 1HZ, 4.2L intercooled turbo-diesel Driveline: Five-speed manual, dual-range 4WD, 4.5:1 final gearing Power: 105kW Torque: 456Nm Suspension front: Live axle with coil springs, 4-inch lift, Tough Dog springs and dampers Suspension rear: Live axle with coil springs, 4-inch lift, Tough Dog springs and dampers Wheels: 17x 9-inch Dick Cepek DC2 Black Tyres: 37 x 12.5R17 Mickey Thompson Baja Claw TTC Exterior mods: Custom bar with 12,000lb Ironman winch, custom sidesteps, rear bar, roofrack, stainless-steel snorkel and bonnet scoop, Narva 5W light bar, Narva 55W HID driving lights, Foxwing awning, shovel holder.

Check out Darren’s new blue dual-cab Toyota LandCruiser 80 series.