IMAGINE climbing a tree that boasts a viewing platform 60 metres above the ground.

The southern forests of Western Australia offer three such lofty fire lookout tree-towers: the Gloucester Tree (3km from Pemberton), the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree (8km from Pemberton) and the Diamond Tree (10km south of Manjimup).

Of the three, we opted to explore the Bicentennial Tree, and for one very good reason: it has the highest treetop lookout in the world, with the top viewing platform a dizzying 75 metres aloft.

Impressed? Well, consider this: how did someone manage to climb the thing without the steps and platforms in the first place? It was enough to make me think, but I admit to being a bit of a chicken when it comes to heights.

There was no way I’d climb this tall timber, and I always have the excuse of looking after our one-year-old.

To reach the Bicentennial Tree, follow the Heartbreak Trail in Warren National Park, a one-way 4WD loop through tall karri forest. Even with our off-road camper trailer in tow, we had no trouble following the sometimes twisty, sometimes steep track; though, be warned: it’s not advisable to take a motor home or caravan along some of the narrow stretches here.

Our first stop was the Warren River Lookout, where the kids enjoyed a run-around. I discovered, to my surprise, that the Warren River is salty – strange, considering the distance of the ocean.

Apparently it works like this: spray is whipped up off the Southern Ocean by westerlies, and cold fronts deflect the salty, moisture-laden air up over the south-west of Australia where it falls with rain.

Next stop: the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree, named for a local politician with a special interest in tree-towers; he even wrote a book about them. In 1994, Evans was awarded the Order of Australia for his services to the State.

The sight of the Bicentennial Tree is impressive enough. Peering upwards at all those rungs disappearing skyward (130, I discovered later) is a real wow moment.

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Local forester Don Stewart came up with the idea of using the tallest karris as fire lookouts. And, in case you’re still pondering my earlier question, his colleague Jack Watson designed his own climbing gear and would use it to scale 40 trees from which he chose the best lookouts. Rungs were hammered into the trunk of each suitable tree, and cabins were built in their canopies.

The Bicentennial Tree’s lowest viewing platform is at a mere 25 metres, where the faint-hearted might linger while the true daredevil will forge upwards to that 75-metre ceiling.

The treetop cabin weighs two tonnes and, for obvious safety reasons, only four people at a time are allowed inside. In a strong breeze, the tree will sway 1.5 metres at top lookout level. Yet the view is spectacular (or so I was told by a brave soul who made it all the way to the top), offering 40km panoramas across the treetops to surrounding farmland.

Visiting a fire lookout tree-tower proved a memorable experience. And next time, I have promised myself, I will climb the thing (especially because I won’t have the excuse of looking after my one-year-old any more).

See you up there!

SO, THE brand new Jeep Grand Cherokee had a couple of thousand kilometres on the clock before I got to drive it. After a couple of long days, we’d turned off the highway to check out some old mining country behind Cloncurry, Queensland.

The track I’d picked hadn’t been driven in a few years and took a bit of finding and, as it hadn’t rained much in outback Queensland for the last five years, things were looking pretty rough. There were plenty of rocks, a few undulating channels that used to be creeks, and a whole bunch of scrub over the sides of the track.

“Hey John,” said Rod, our stills camera shooter. “Could you take the Jeep up that hill? I know I could do it but that little lecture you gave us about scratching the paint and…”

Yeah, I get it. If anyone’s going to stuff the new Jeep it’d better be the mug who borrowed it.

I hopped in and fiddled with the seat adjustment – there are a couple of buttons that shift the seat to suit almost any build, from Gimli the Dwarf to the Elephant Man. I went for the Santa selection.

“You can put the window up. The air’s on,” said Rod, no doubt feeling the dry outback heat after the Jeep’s comfy climate control. I switched the air off and buttoned down the windows just to be difficult. Yes, there is a layer of red dust through everything.

Hopping out of Milo isn’t good for comparisons. Fact is, Milo has the comfort of a Bobcat and the style of a rubber mallet, while the Cherokee felt leather-lush and beautiful. Right then, I figured I had better not let my wife Karen anywhere near it.

Like all Jeeps, the suspension instantly felt super soft and supple, with a ride over the rocks that’s best described as ‘floating boat-like’, while the steering, which I’d put in Sport mode, felt very precise. None of that’d matter, though, if this boat ran aground on the sharp, old rocks poking up out of the track. I put my faith in the unproven Desert Hawk muddies, selected low range with a push of the button and Rock mode with a twist of the fat dial, and then aimed for all of the high spots.

Wow! Sure, it took some judicious wheel placement to keep the low-slung body off the rocks, but wherever I pointed it, the Jeep responded by doing well. Then things got steeper and it started spitting out stones, and a couple of times it stopped altogether on the real steep stuff and nothing but a shove on the throttle would get it moving again.

So I tried mucking around with the modes. Now, I’ll leave it to the experts like Editor Matt and my old mate Fraser to explain why this is so – apart from the obvious reason that Roothy’s a klutz – but for some reason I found that when in Sand mode with occasional light pressure on the brake I could get it to clamber over almost anything. I know there’s an electronic diff lock up the rear and traction control all around, but somehow all four wheels found traction and the Cherokee became unstoppable. Only the fear of doing some body damage kept me from trying some really silly things.

Decades or more ago I went to Jeep releases in the US of A, and they always involved driving the Rubicon Trail, a tight, twisty and rocky 22-mile-long prospecting track that can take a couple of days. Big vehicles really struggle with it, but every Jeep ever made is expected – albeit with a bit of protection on the sills – to do it well in stock form. If you know that and you’ve seen the trail, it’s pretty easy to see why Jeeps, even Grand Cherokees, stay close to their heritage. Compact and light, reasonable approach and departure angles, and soft suspension make for a great formula for any off-roader – even one with all the leather bells and whistles.

After four days of swapping in and out of the Jeep every time things got hectic, the overwhelming feeling was how tight the whole package was. No rattles, no bangs, no vibrations – just pure power when you needed it and plenty of brakes. I did a few high range dirt tracks at speed for photos and found it as predictable as it was surefooted. The Grand Cherokee can be made to slide through a corner, but it’s like skipping out in a rally car as both ends shift together with minimal input at the wheel.

Maybe I’d better mention the engine again. The V6 turbo-diesel makes 180kW and 570Nm. For those of us brought up loving big V8s, that’s more torque and a tad less power than the GTS 350 Monaros that won Bathurst during the 1960s. Yet you wouldn’t even know the bloody thing was running if you stood behind it at idle. More muscle than a muscle car, but it’s backed by an eight speed automatic that selects the perfect ratio for every situation thanks to having a computerised brain under the seat

Meanwhile, Milo and my mate’s modified 60 Series, both tough, old live-axle trucks with leaf suspension, were tackling the same tracks without the caution. That’s a ride height and price thing – the Cherokee is lower and its price higher. This Grand Cherokee whistled all the way to Darwin and back without missing a superbly comfortable beat. The only tracks we didn’t inflict on it were the ones near Adelaide River that, with rain still falling at the end of the Wet, were too deep in mud and water to chuck in any vehicle without a snorkel.

This was a real-world test, with real-world drivers like our camera crew who are just there to do the job with plenty of real-world off-roading thrown in. Thewhole idea was to prove the ‘There and Back Guarantee’ that Jeep has been pushing. Three weeks later we were back in Brisbane, having done a tad less than 8000km of mixed highway hauling plus another 2000 or so kays of back-track touring. Fully loaded inside and out, it still averaged 10.9km/100L – try getting 28mpg out of that old Monaro!

Despite some sharp rock country and plenty of corrugations, the Desert Hawk tyres didn’t lose a pound of pressure. I know that, because there’s a read-out of individual tyre pressures on the dash. Despite some wheel-in-the-air situations and plenty of steep rocky dips, we didn’t need the VRS winch, which speaks volumes for the traction control, the Desert Hawks and the suspension all working together. The MaxTrax didn’t come off the rack, either, at least not until we borrowed them for our Adelaide River run.

Most of all, we didn’t need to phone the dealer. When I did, it was to ask Luke if we could keep his Cherokee for another couple of weeks because we were enjoying it too much to give it back. Off-roader, highway cruiser, around-town vehicle – the Grand Cherokee was brilliant everywhere.

You know what? I’m thinking the only people who knock Jeeps do so because they haven’t tried them.

Righto, from the sublime to the ridiculous – next month we’ll be back in the shed working on Milo 2.

I’M THE kind of bloke who will research a pair of socks before I buy them, so when I was laying down a couple of thousand on a canopy for my Ranger, you best believe I looked at plenty of options before signing on the dotted line.

After much deliberation, I opted for the Aeroklas ABS unit. It had plenty of qualities that ticked the box for me, like a sleek profile so the roof of the cab and canopy are in line, full-length opening windows on either side, and a paint job that make it look like OEM gear.

But the real question was how well will it hold up after more than 20,000km of lantana and wayward shopping trolleys? The short answer: good. The long answer: bloody good.

Aeroklas claims its canopies are painted to OEM spec, but frankly, that’s bull, as the paint on the canopy is holding up significantly better than the base vehicle.

While the Ranger itself has scratches everywhere you look (including one from a wayward dirt bike in the tray) the canopy itself still looks brand new. It’s been punted down more than a few dusty tracks, too, and while the tailgate happily spews dust into the tray, it’s clear no dust is coming in through any of the canopy windows or the seal between the tub and canopy.

The outside is colour-matched, but the inside layer (there’s an interior and exterior shell) is a clean white colour, with an LED light easily lighting up the tray when the back window is opened. I did miss out on the central locking option (don’t ask), but with all three windows keyed alike it’s really not a huge issue to secure the canopy if I’ve got the back full of camping gear.

Despite plenty of corrugations, the mounts are all still securely in place and the windows still pull into the seals with confidence.

Aeroklas claim the internal supports can hold 80kg on the roof with a set of Rhino-Rack mounts, which is more than enough for a rack or roof-top tent but, if you’re after more, an optional brace kit bumps that figure up to 150kg.

A lack of sliding windows may scare off dog owners, but with the front window popped down my German Shephard and Wolfhound get plenty of airflow without worrying they’ll do the Harold Holt whenever we pull up at the lights.

All in all it’s been a winner in my books. Some canopies offer a little easier access through the rear hatch, but for an all-rounder with style on its side, the Aeroklas unit has plenty to offer.

AVAILABLE FROM www.aeroklas.com.au RRP: $3554 (without fitment) WE SAY: Sleek lines, robust construction, weatherproof.

IT’S NO secret I like old 4x4s.

Over the years I’ve treated countless neighbours to the aural pleasure of me yelling at whatever the latest nugget was in my driveway, pumping the throttle, juggling the choke with surgeon-like precision and going through the full start-up routine just to drive to the shops for a sneaky lunch kebab.

I still love them, and always will. But with my sights set on some remote travel over the next 18 months, the idea of tuning a carb on the side of the track because of a slight altitude change didn’t exactly hold the appeal it did back when I was 18.

I searched under the lounge for all the spare change I could muster up and forged Matt’s signature for a loan application, then went looking at new 4x4s.

The short list was narrowed down to an SR5 Hilux for the reliability and dealer network, an NP300 Navara for its aggressive styling and coil spring rear, or an XLT PXII Ranger for its physically larger size and bigger engine.

After driving all back-to-back, I settled on the Ranger. Sure, I have a few reliability concerns, but I do a heap of towing, so the longer wheelbase and gruntier engine pushed it across the line.

Despite only picking it up a few days before Christmas, she’s already ticked over 20,000km with no signs of slowing down anytime soon.

The XLT came with a bunch of options I wanted for on- and off-road use, as the whole point of the Ranger was to rack up kays and get me to places I couldn’t trust the 60 with. It picked up a factory rear locker, adaptive cruise control, and a heap of tech features that keep the missus and kids happy, too.

I’d always shied away from new cars because, well, they’re boring. The Ranger is no different, but that’s kind of the appeal to it. It’s done a few trips up and down the east coast now and doesn’t require anything more than a quick fluid-level check before hitting the road.

I’ve punted it along the Coffs Coast, effortlessly traversed the Pebbly Beach crossing, slipped and slid sideways through South East Queensland mud, and lugged more trailers around than you could shake a grey cardigan at – and I’ve barely even started modifying it.

Over the next few months I’ll start swiping the credit card to get it a little more outback-ready, then just sit back while the odometer ticks over. As long as it doesn’t require me to do any work on it, I’ll be laughing.

THERE COMES a time in a bloke’s life when he can appreciate the finer things in life and nothing is finer than a brand-spankin’-new 4X4.

This article was originally published in the October 2011 issue of 4×4 Australia

West Aussie Brett Rogers has had his fair share of 4X4s over the years, many of them modified with V8 engine transplants, big tyres and locked diffs, but his latest vehicle is a relatively new kid on the block. For a bit of comfort and ease of use he chose a new 150 series Prado GXL for his bush ride.

“I have (Toyota) HiLuxes with the D4D engine, and as work vehicles they hold up really well with all the crap we put them through,” says Brett. “But I didn’t want to drive one on the weekend as well as during the week, so thought I’d go with the Prado.”

Like any fella used to tinkering with cars and making them better for specific uses, Brett couldn’t leave the Prado standard for too long, and the result is the toughest-looking Prado 150 we’ve seen.

4×4 accessories store salesmen love it when a guy like Brett walks in their front door, and Brad Scott from Northern 4WD in Perth hit the jackpot with Brett and his Prado.

As the owner of a brand-new vehicle, Brett wasn’t another tyre kicker with nothing to spend, and from his previous experience with four-wheel drives, he knew what he wanted from the Prado and what was required to kit it up to the standard he wanted.

Northern 4WD is an ARB retailer and fitter and ARB has one of the most extensive ranges of gear for the 150 Series Prado, which is still a relatively new model in terms of what is on the road today. They were able to cover the vehicle for all Brett’s protection, suspension and cargo carrying requirements.

Starting from the front, there’s an ARB Deluxe steel winch bar with a Warn XD9000 nestled in the centre. A pair of IPF 800 Extreme spot lights sits upon the bar along with a GME spring-base antenna for the UHF radio.

Get down in the dirt and stick your head under the Prado and you’ll notice that there’s extra space between it and the gravel thanks to an Old Man Emu suspension kit with 50mm taller coil springs and matching Nitrocharger Sport shock absorbers.

While you’re under there you might scope the three-inch, mandrel-bent, straight-through stainless steel exhaust system that frees up some power from the Toyota turbo-diesel engine.

The exhaust was fitted by Chipit that also added one of its tuneable engine control units to make the most of the better-flowing exhaust.

Toyota’s four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine is a pretty good performer and ideal for touring, but when the Chipit unit was being tuned on the dyno the 3.0L D4D in this Prado was making double the standard torque figure at just 2000rpm.

Brett said that with all that low-down grunt, it spins all four tyres off the lights. Once a hoon always a hoon hey?

Brett’s choice of wheel is a bit different to what you see on most late-model vehicles but the 17 x 8-inch Savannah beadlock alloys from Allied Wheels give the Prado 150 a tough, purposeful look that really works well.

“Most of the Prados you see are soccer mums’ shopping trollies,” says Brett. “I hadn’t seen many modified ones around so I was aiming for a different look.” He’s certainly achieved that without resorting to massive wheels and tyres.

The extra pair of matching wheels hanging on the Kaymar rear bumper adds to the look while give reassurance when Brett’s a long way from the local tyre centre and all six wheels are clad in chunky Goodyear Wrangler MT/R tyres measuring 265/70R17.

Swing out the spare wheels and open the back door and the cargo area is chock-a-block with Black Widow storage drawers and a pair of 40-litre Engels on slides.

When away on trips one fridge operates as just that while the other is set as a freezer. In between the drawers and the rear seat is a 50-litre water tank with a 12-volt pump feeding a tap and shower head. This 4X4 has all the luxuries of home.

Crack a cold one from the Engel and resume the vehicle inspection under the bonnet. The 3.0-litre turbo-diesel remains stock, with the exception of the aforementioned exhaust system and Chipit control unit, and air is sucked in to the engine via a Safari snorkel.

While the tweaked Toyota mill gets along adequately in the Prado, Brett is always hungry for more power and he says there could be a turbocharger upgrade from AXT on the cards for the near future.

Like any Aussie bloke, Brett reckons you can never have enough horsepower and as his previous HiLuxes have had petrol V8s in them the Prado could use a further boost.

A dual battery set-up uses a Varta second battery with a Redarc isolator and ensures there’s always enough cranking power to get the Prado started after a long session in camp with the Engels running. An ARB air compressor is also installed in the engine bay.

The functional modifications continue when you venture inside the cabin. The Prado comes with most of what you need for practical and comfortable touring but, as we’ve come to expect of him, Brett saw the need for a few extras.

Canvas seat covers from Black Duck protect the factory cloth seats, a GME UHF radio is there for communications and a Hema Navigator helps with directions both in and out of town.

A ScanGauge is fitted in the dash and this gives Brett real-time fuel consumption figures so he knows how much touring distance he has from the 150-litre factory fuel tanks.

Working with Toyota vehicles in the mines in remote Western Australia has its advantages when you own a Toyota, too, and should the ScanGauge show any fault codes Brett can identify and rectify them.

Up on top of the Prado is more of ARB’s quality product. A steel Touring rack mounts an ARB awning and a quartet of IPF driving lights. It also provides the platform for the million-star accommodation with a Dingo Doza rooftop canvas tent fitted.

“It’s the best thing I’ve bought for it,” says Brett of the tent. “We used to swag it but got sick of that and the tent only takes a couple of minutes to set up and is real comfortable.”

When he’s not belting around the West Oz outback in a company HiLux, Brett likes to get out four-wheel driving, fishing and camping in his Prado with his missus. They’ve covered most of the west coast in it.

“Pemberton in the south-west is good,” says Brett. “Anywhere on the beach north of Perth, or four-wheel driving in the hills east of Perth where we live. Where we did the photo shoot at Red Hill is a bit of fun too. It spends as much time off the road as it does on it.”

The Prado handles most of the work dished up to it but as you would expect of a bloke used to playing with V8 HiLuxes, Brett has more mods planned for it.

“Diff locks front and rear, a couple of work lights around the rack and some bash plates underneath for starters. Maybe an AXT turbo upgrade and hopefully someone comes up with a taller lift kit so I can get some bigger tyres under it.”

Even though he’s going to fit lockers, Brett says he was impressed by how well the electronic traction control works.

“It surprised me! When it lifts a wheel in the air you drive through it, but you have to wait for the system to work. You need to change your driving style to suit the electronics; it’s different to the older 4X4s with V8s and diff locks.”

The safety and comfort features like electronic traction and stability control are just some of the benefits of owning and driving a new vehicle, and the GXL Prado covers most bases.

It sure beats belting around in old trucks with major mods like engine transplants but Brett has shown there’s always room for improvement.

Brett say that getting the modifications right has been relatively easy compared to some of his older 4X4s and that’s thanks to Brad from Northern 4X4 and Justin from Chipit, while the guys from Black Widow were a big help too.

SETTING UP camp smack-bang between Lake Ainsworth and the ocean provides for plenty of opportunity for long, lazy sunny days near the water doing… well… pretty much as much or as little as you want.

Don’t expect to be 4x4ing all day every day though, but there’s the excellent, easily accessed Seven Mile Beach just a few minutes away that you can drive onto (with a permit) to set up for the day.

Regardless if you’re a fisho, surfer, swimmer, or are into paddling or just out for an easy 4×4 along a pristine beach, then you’ll surely enjoy your time at this beach.

No need to pack your 4×4 for an epic journey into the great unknown for this one; the beach is slotted between the well-known towns of Byron Bay (to the north) and Ballina (to the south). In fact, scenic Lennox Head is right where the action is.

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Seven Mile Beach runs from Lennox Head north to near Broken Head, and is accessed from the Old Mining Road – a good gravel road that starts near the southern end of Lake Ainsworth, loops around the western rim, and heads north to where there’s an easily accessible 4×4 beach access point – too easy and close enough to take your fish and chips, prawns or hamburgers from the local shops to munch on while they’re still juicy and hot!

There’s no camping on the beach; we opted for the soft option of setting up our camper trailer in the caravan park near Lake Ainsworth, which has great amenities and allows for easy walking to both water fronts – tea tree-stained fresh and eye-stinging salty.

Heck, this was such a soft camping option that we walked into town the first night to dine in one of the many outdoor cafes. After that, it was hoeing into fish hooked on the beach and cooked on the public barbecues near the lake – they really don’t get any fresher than that!

For those with kids, you’ll no doubt love the opportunity to play in the water

The lake is perfect for canoeing and sailing, while the ocean provides plenty of opportunity to hang ten, fall off, get a nose full of water and tell the kids you were just showing them how NOT to do it. Why do they giggle when that happens?

For those interested in the history of the area, Lake Ainsworth, which is one of the few lowland dune lakes in northern New South Wales, was named after the son of Thomas Ainsworth (James), who was one of the first white fellas to settle and take up land in the area near North Head at Ballina way back in 1847.

The Aboriginal Jali people are the traditional owners and there have been various surveys completed around the region suggesting that burial sites, camp sites, ceremonial grounds, massacre sites and fish traps have been identified.

While many of these sites have been disturbed and/or destroyed by sand mining and urban development, if you do stumble on any of them, you’re best leaving them alone and respecting the cultural significance.

For those that must venture out to have a gander at one of Australia’s more eye-opening, back-packer-enticing, alternate-culture-attracting towns, then Byron Bay is just a short drive away.

Look, see, make comment if you must, then get back to the seclusion of the beach to discuss the weird, wonderful and downright different people that make up the world we live in… then go for another 4×4, peal another prawn, sip a cold drink and smile contentedly in the knowledge that you’ve found a great little piece of paradise that sees most 4x4s unknowingly pass by.

Make no mistake, this is war.

Toyota’s Hilux and Ford’s Ranger are fighting it out to not only be Australia’s most popular ute and 4×4, but – crucially – Australia’s most popular vehicle overall, ahead of the likes of Toyota’s Corolla and the Mazda3.

Year-to-date sales of the Hilux are 17,917, with the Ranger close behind at 16,587. Both are ahead of the Corolla 15,624 and Mazda3 14,562.

More tellingly, Ranger sales are climbing faster than Hilux, and the Ranger is already ahead in 4×4 sales, which is where most of the sales are in the ute market. If current trends continue, the Ranger will wrest the mantle of Australia’s best-selling vehicle from the Hilux before year’s end.

Within the extensive Hilux and Ranger model line-ups, which range from base work vehicles to well-appointed family transport, the higher-spec 4×4 dual-cabs are hot property on the showroom floor. It’s no surprise then that Toyota and Ford have pitched both of these models in that direction.

For Toyota, the TRD model sits above the top-spec SR5, whereas over at Ford the FX4 slots between the popular XLT and the top-spec Wildtrak. So, how do they compare and which one is worthy of your hard-earned dollars?

Toyota Hilux TRD

It has been almost ten years since the TRD nameplate was attached to a Hilux. That was the previous generation Hilux – and a petrol

V6 at that. TRD stands for Toyota Racing Development, a division within Toyota that deals with racing and performance parts.

The previous (launched in 2008) Hilux TRD was a product of Toyota Australia’s TRD division and came with a supercharger for the 4.0-litre petrol V6, Bilstein sports suspension, bigger front brake callipers and rotors, a body kit, and numerous styling details.

Thanks to the supercharger, the power was up by nearly 30 per cent – to 225kW – and torque up 20 per cent to 453Nm. Nice on paper, but unfortunately it didn’t fully deliver on its promise and was withdrawn from sale after 18 months. Now it’s probably a collector’s item!

Fast forward to 2017 and this latest TRD is diesel-only and has nothing that you’d traditionally associate with TRD, as there are no performance enhancements.

However, you get extra kit in the form of a prominent red skid plate, bespoke 18-inch rims, leather, a towbar, ute liner, soft tonneau and details such as new wheelarch flares, grille, lower bumper and tail-light covers. It comes in either black or white.

Powertrain and performance

The Hilux is powered by the now familiar 2.8-litre diesel that’s common to the Fortuner – it’s effectively what’s under the bonnet of the Prado, although the Prado’s 2.8-litre has counter-rotating balance shafts for even smoother running.

Despite a reduction in capacity over the previous 3.0-litre Hilux diesel, the 2.8 makes considerably more maximum torque (now 450Nm) and around the same power. So while the engine is more responsive in general give-and-take driving, it’s certainly no powerhouse pedal-to-metal and a fair way short of the performance of the Ranger.

It’s a pity the TRD badge didn’t come with a performance chip, a bigger exhaust and a bit more grunt.

The six-speed automatic which replaced the five-speeder behind the 3.0-litre doesn’t help either in terms of performance, it just adds a second overdrive ratio rather than tightening up the ratio spread.

What’s worse is that the engine doesn’t carry the extra tall sixth all that well at legal highway speeds on undulating roads, so there’s a bit of shuffling back and forth between fifth and sixth. At least shift quality is good.

Still, for all that, the 2.8 is an agreeable engine. Smooth, quiet and torquey down low, but also happy to rev hard when asked. Compared to the relatively gruff Ranger it’s noticeably quieter, more refined and a bit more economical, but it does lack the Ranger’s grunt and ultimate performance.

On-road ride and handling

The Hilux feels quite nimble for a modern-day ute, due in part to the fact it’s now one of the smaller utes in most dimensions – it certainly feels smaller than the Ranger.

Toyota has also done well with steering feel, general handing response and road-noise abatement, apparently learning something from the refined and sweet-handling VW Amarok that appeared early in the development of this generation Hilux and was subsequently accessed by the Hilux’s engineering team.

Either way, its general road manners are much improved on the previous Hilux, even if the ride is a bit sharp at the back when unladen – which is hard to avoid with a ute.

Off-road

The TRD’s trump card off-road is the notably long rear-wheel travel. At more than half a metre, it’s an improvement of near 70mm over the previous Hilux and is a best-in-class figure.

That wheel travel is backed by an extremely effective off-road-specific traction control system (A-TRC, in Toyota-speak) to provide 4×4 ability that’s as good as it gets in this class. Compared to the Ranger, and many others, the Hilux’s more compact dimensions can also be a bonus in tighter situations.

Interestingly, the TRD, like the SR and SR5, has a driver-switched rear locker, but as its activation cancels the traction control on both axles, leaving the front diff effectively ‘open’, it’s more often than not a disadvantage.

In contrast, the Ranger’s locker leaves the front-axle traction control active, which is a bonus. This would most likely put the Ranger in front of the Hilux for general tractive ability, if it weren’t for the Hilux’s extra rear travel.

It’s worth noting the TRD’s red bash plate is an addition to the standard bash plate, which remains in-situ, and while it may afford extra protection it can also reduce the approach angle in some situations.

Cabin, accommodation and safety

The TRD has smart-key entry and push-button start, as well as the tilt-and-reach steering wheel that’s standard across the Hilux range. All of this kit sets it aside from any Ranger – FX4 included – as well as most other utes.

Like all Hilux models, the TRD is nicely finished inside and has a passenger-car-style dash dominated by the large love-it-or-leave it tablet-style touchscreen, while the TRD’s leather and electric adjust for the driver’s seat adds a touch of luxury. Five-star safety is thanks, in part, to seven airbags.

The Hilux’s cabin is one of the smaller in this class. Not that this affects the driver and front-seat passenger, but three big blokes would certainly prefer to be in the Ranger’s rear seat (or most other utes) rather than the Hilux.

Practicalities

As with all 2.8-litre diesel automatic Hilux models, the TRD can legally tow up to 3200kg. If you wish to tow 3500kg like the Ranger, you’ll need the 2.8-litre diesel manual.

In our tow test, we put 2800kg behind the Hilux and it did it without fuss. Likewise, it carried its maximum payloads without a problem – even if they are shy of the Ranger’s maximum payloads by 100kg or so at this TRD versus FX4 spec level. This aside, the Hilux is the practicality king in terms of dealer support and both factory and aftermarket accessories.

Toyota Hilux TRD specs: Engine: 2.8-litre 4-cyl turbo-diesel Max power: 130kW @ 3400rpm Max torque: 450Nm @ 1600-2400rpm GVM: 3050kg Towing capacity: 3200kg Fuel tank capacity: 80 litres

Ford Ranger FX4

There are those among us who, upon hearing of the Ranger FX4, immediately think of the F150 FX4, America’s favourite pick-up truck made more off-road ready with extra underbody protection, upgraded dampers and a rear locker.

However, it was quickly a case of ‘don’t get too excited’, as FX4 in Ranger terms means cosmetics and kit, not mechanical changes – aside from a new wheel and tyre package.

The FX4 is essentially a ‘black’ or ‘dark’ special-edition version of the volume-selling XLT – an alternative ‘look’ for the XLT, if you like. Key exterior features include bespoke dark grey 18s (instead of the XLT’s 17s), black bonnet and tailgate panel decals, and black grille, roof rails, mudguard flares, mirror bodies, sportsbar, rear bumper, side-steps, door handles and fog-light surrounds.

Inside, there are FX4-branded leather seats and various black highlights.

Powertrain and performance

The FX4 is powered by the 3.2-litre five-cylinder diesel, effectively the default engine across the Ranger model line-up; although, there’s a very underrated 2.2-litre four-cylinder diesel in lower-spec 4×4 models. To some people, a five-cylinder engine sounds wrong – perhaps out of balance – as it doesn’t have an even number of cylinders.

To put the record straight, an in-line five is inherently smoother than an in-line four, and the Ranger’s engine is smooth, except for a somewhat lumpy idle (a typical in-line-five trait).

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However, the five-cylinder design brings a likeable character and offbeat sound, but what’s even better about this engine is the strong power delivery right from idle. By just 1500rpm it’s already producing its maximum torque figure of 470Nm, and it responds accordingly. What’s more, the engine holds that 470Nm for the next 1250rpm, which provides perfectly linear power delivery in this vital rev range.

Much of the Ranger’s strong power delivery comes courtesy of the big 3.2-litre engine, the biggest in the class along with the similar-engined Mazda BT-50. It’s nearly half a litre bigger (443cc, to be exact) than the Hilux and feels like it, too.

It’s also a bit gruff and noisy compared to the Hilux, and it’s not as polished around the edges. So where the Ranger’s engine feels blokey, relaxed and muscular, the Hilux’s is quieter and more refined, despite working generally harder.

The Ranger is geared more appropriately for most open road conditions and makes better use of its six ratios than the overly tall-geared Hilux. Good shift quality and smart shift protocols characterise the Ranger’s ZF automatic, although it is not noticeably better in this regard than the Hilux’s six-speeder.

On-road ride and handling

Climb into the FX4 after the TRD and it feels big, but it also feels instantly light and manoeuvrable as soon as you turn the steering wheel, thanks to its electric power steering.

The FX4’s steering is actually feather-light at parking speeds, belying the Ranger’s size and bulk. The steering then firms up nicely as speeds increase to give plenty of feedback out on the highway, where the Ranger has a reassuring and settled feel, no doubt helped by the extra long (3220mm) wheelbase. When unladen, the FX4, like all Ranger 4×4 dual-cabs, also rides surprisingly well.

Off-road

The FX4 has many things going for it off-road, and it all starts with generous suspension travel at both ends of the chassis. The Ranger’s supple, long-travel suspension allows it to ease over rough ground that many other utes – Holden Colorado, Isuzu D-MAX, Mitsubishi Triton and Nissan Navara – struggle on.

In this class, it’s comfortably better than most, even if it can’t match the standard-setting rear wheel travel of the Hilux.

If the FX4 – or indeed, any Ranger 4×4 dual-cab – needs a leg up, there’s the driver-switched rear diff lock that, unlike others, leaves the traction control active on the front axle. The end result is 4×4 capability that’s as good as it gets in any of the popular utes, with only the Hilux and VW Amarok in the same league.

Only a few things count against the FX4 off-road: you notice its size in tight spots (even if the EPS helps with wheel twirling), the driver’s vision could be better, and the factory towbar does nothing for the departure angle.

Cabin, accommodation and safety

As flash-looking as the FX4 is when you’re walking up to it, there’s still not the convenience of keyless entry and push-button start. Nor are there other luxuries such as reach adjustment for the steering wheel, or even electric adjustment for the driver’s seat once you get inside.

However, what you get is a big cabin with plenty of room for tall drivers. The FX4’s cabin, like all Ranger dual-cabs (as well as BT-50 dual-cabs), is also the longest in the class, so if you want to sit a tall passenger behind a tall driver, this is the place to do it. This cabin is wide across the back seat, a dimension only bettered by the Amarok in this class. Like the TRD, the FX4 has five-star ANCAP safety, but one less airbag.

Practicalities

If you wish to tow or carry heavy loads, the Ranger FX4 will do the job as good as any of the popular mainstream utes, including the Toyota Hilux.

In our recent maxxed-out load and tow test, we put a 3500kg trailer weight behind the Ranger and it towed it without fuss. Likewise, we put 800kg in the tray (for 1000kg total payload) and it hardly noticed the weight.

The FX4 (like all Rangers) has a class-leading 6000kg GCM and is well-supported by aftermarket and factory accessories.

Ford Ranger FX4 specs: Engine: 3.2-litre 5-cyl turbo-diesel Max power: 147kW @ 3000rpm Max torque: 470Nm @ 1500-2750rpm GVM: 3200kg Fuel tank capacity: 80 litres

THE VERDICT

On the dollar count, the FX4 and TRD are almost identical. At the manufacturer’s list price the FX4 is $61,115 for the automatic as tested here. Opt for the manual and you’ll save $2200. Over at Toyota, a TRD automatic list price is $60,990 in white and $61,540 in black.

Opt for a manual and you’ll save $2000. It wasn’t hard to find much to like about the FX4 when comparing the two side-by-side. It had notably stronger and more relaxed performance, generally better road feel, bigger cabin, more towing and load-carrying capacity and ability, and off-road performance every bit as good as the Hilux.

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As a ute to drive, it’s a better bet all round. The TRD counters with superior refinement, better fit and finish, a feel of quality the FX4 lacks, and a few important convenience features including ‘smart key’ entry and start, electric seat adjust, and tilt-and-reach wheel adjustment. Plus, it gets a tub liner and soft tonneau cover.

The TRD also comes with the promise of Toyota reliability and durability. On this point, there are a couple of pointed examples to consider: Why doesn’t the Hilux’s traction control stay active across the front axle when the rear locker is engaged? Because of durability concerns, according to Toyota engineers.

And why doesn’t the Hilux have electric power steering given the considerable benefits it brings? Because of durability concerns, according to Toyota engineers. So do you want a ute that’s better to drive, or potentially better to own in the long run?

Road tester Dan Everett summed it up succinctly by saying: “I’d buy the Ranger for myself, but as a fleet buyer I’d go for the Hilux.”

IF YOU pedal a 70 Series Cruiser, there’s a (relatively) new kid on the block punching out sets of recovery points ideally suited to all 75, 76, 78 and 79 Series.

Manufactured from 350-grade laser-cut 12mm mild steel, the kit comes with two recovery closed eyes and all necessary hardware (8.8 high-tensile bolts, nuts and spacers, depending on exact model) for an easy-fit solution directly into front-end existing chassis holes.

Regardless of the bullbar brand or other parts fitted under your 70 Series – in my case, a 63mm tube Opposite Lock bar with an alloy Front Runner bash plate t – the Thorburns kits will more than likely fit, as the company has more than a keen interest in the marque (it owns a 78 and a 79 Series and has measured all relevant info).

While it has been in the metal fabrication industry for decades, Thorburns has recently plunged into specialised parts for 70s.

However, if you drive a Lada Niva, Cherry, Suzuki or even a Nissan, we suggest that you probably should shop elsewhere.

I took the plunge and bolted a set of recovery eyes to my own Troopcarrier and was relieved it didn’t require amodifications to either my bar or bash plate, like the last set I purchased and had to return.

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The blue, powdercoated eyes protrudethe perfect amount from the bar work to enable a rated 4.75-tonne shackle to pass through and also allow a strap or winch cable to take on a fair angle without fouling on the bar’s extremities.

Load testing has damaged the chassis (at 15-tonnes!) before the recovery eyes so there’s no official SWL rating as yet. Thorburns recommends use with an 8000lb strap and 4.75T rated shackles.

Now, given the rare chance I may get bogged – oh, who am I kidding? – I’ll be much more relaxed knowing I’ve got a decent pair of recovery eyes to share the load between the chassis rails.CONTACT Website: www.thorburns.com.au RRP: $170 (76, 78 & 79); $175 (75)

WHEN the mighty 1VD-FTV was introduced in 2007, 4WD circles were plagued with rumours of high oil consumption and injector problems straight out of the box.

This was spurred on by the distrust of common-rail injection technology, with the early 3.0-litre Patrols dropping like flies. The prejudice continues to this day – just check out the second-hand market prices of same-year 3.0-litre and the old-school, mechanically injected 4.2-litre Patrol.

Over the past decade, the Toyota V8 diesel – in either the twin-turbo version found in the 200 series, or the single-turbo perched between the guards of 70 Series workhorses – has built an enviable reputation for both Toyota-spec reliability and a torque curve that feels like it’s cresting Mount Everest. If there’s a better caravan-tug engine in Australia, I certainly haven’t driven it!

What you won’t hear, and especially of the single-turbo version, is the blinding acceleration. In fact, when the single-turbo was introduced, it had exactly the same peak power and torque of the straight-six diesel (1HD-FTE) it was replacing. So, how can you change your stump puller into a potential winner of the traffic-light grand prix?

ENCOURAGING AN ENGINE TO MAKE MORE POWER

THE diesel engine in its simplest form is a very rudimentary engine. There’s no throttle to control engine speed, there isn’t even an ignition system to light the compressed fuel mixture in the combustion chamber.

Instead, it relies on a high compression ratio (the ratio the piston compresses the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber and cylinder) to get the air hot enough to ignite it.

Petrol engines typically have a compression ratio of around 10:1, whereas 20:1 is nothing unusual in a diesel engine. In the case of Toyota’s V8, it’s 16.8:1, and the higher the compression ratio, the more efficient the engine is.

Additionally, diesel has more energy content than petrol, with diesel coming in at 35.8 MJ/L (megajoules/litre) versus petrol at 34.2 MJ/L. If that doesn’t make you want to go out and buy a diesel, this might: At part throttle, a diesel engine will require less fuel than a petrol donk.

Finally, as diesel is a great lubricant in comparison to petrol, you’ll lose less power to internal engine frictional losses, and those loses can account for up to 30 per cent of the potential chemical energy produced by the diesel.

The internal-combustion engine is essentially an air pump, and the more efficient you can make that pump, the more likely you are of winning the traffic-light GP.

HOW DOES A TURBOCHARGER HELP PRODUCE MORE POWER?

AS WELL as frictional losses, the engine loses around 30 per cent of the energy released by the diesel straight out of the exhaust (it’s a wonder there’s enough left to turn the wheels).

A turbocharger will enable you to recover some of that wasted heat. The motion of the exhaust gases, in combination with the wasted heat, is used to spin a turbocharger exhaust turbine (effectively a metal windmill) that is then connected by a shaft to the inlet turbocharger compressor wheel.

This, in turn, compresses the inlet air, artificially cramming more oxygen-laced air into the combustion chamber, and, if there’s enough fuel, you’ll get more power. The side effect of compressing the air is heat, and hot air takes up more space than cooler air, leading to less dense air and less power; though, there is a way to combat power-sucking heat.

INTERCOOLERS

INTERCOOLERS or, more correctly termed, aftercoolers, work on the thermodynamic principle of convection; that is, one fluid (air or water) moving energy. In this case, it’s in the form of heat away from the source of energy (compressed heated intake air). It’s actually a little more involved than that, but for our purposes, it’s close enough.

Air travelling into a bonnet-mounted scoop, as the car is moving forward, is at a greater pressure than the air in the engine bay. This allows the air to flow through the intercooler, taking some of the heat generated in the intake charge caused by the turbocharger through the intercooler to be dissipated to the atmosphere.

A cooler and therefore denser air intake charge will contain more oxygen, therefore producing more power.

It works on exactly the same principle as an engine’s radiator. However, there is a common misconception that painting or colouring an intercooler black will increase its efficiency.

It is true that a black object will shed heat via radiation more quickly than bare aluminium surface, but when you flow cooling air through the intercooler, benefiting from the convective heat transfer capabilities of the intercooler, the layer of black paint acts as a thermal insulator. It actually reduces the heat transfer to the atmosphere.

This leads to a hotter, less dense charge and less power is produced.

As well as air-to-air intercoolers, water-to-air units are available. Water is able to shift heat more efficiently than air, so the intercooler can be smaller; though, you’ll still need to get rid of that heat somewhere, and that duty is usually the job of a dedicated additional radiator. There is also the added complexity of pumps and water lines.

If that wasn’t bad enough, some of the standard emission equipment not only clogs up your intercooler, but your intake manifold as well.

WHERE DO YOU START?

WHILE the standard snorkel head might be great at stopping the dust, it’s doing you no favours when it comes to helping the big V8 breathe.

We took a near-standard 76 and, over the process of a day, went from the standard ‘raised air-intake’ to a full aftermarket snorkel with ram head, taking pressure measurements every step of the way. All testing was done in fourth gear, using WOT acceleration runs from 60-100km/h.

From the test data above, it’s easy to see the standard Toyota hat is strangling the engine. Secondly, look at the difference between the ram head and an open snorkel.

It should certainly convince punters not to get a backward-facing stainless drainpipe snorkel in place of a proper ram-head-equipped one. Finally, there wasn’t a large gain in going for the aftermarket snorkel in terms of airflow alone.

However, having pulled the standard ‘raised-air intake’ apart, there are many sections sealed with only a thin strip of foam, not only at the join at bonnet height but also further down just before the air box.

If you intend to do a deep-water crossing, replace the ‘raised-air intake’ with a proper aftermarket snorkel – there are too many ways for the water to get into an expensive engine otherwise.

FILTER ELEMENT AND AIR BOX

IN TERMS of airflow alone, there’s no discernible additional restriction caused by either the filter (standard or good quality aftermarket) or the standard air box to at least 250kW at the wheels. There are, however, reports of dusting of the clean side of the air filter, primarily due to the seal in very dusty environments.

There are many DIY fixes as well, ranging from a bead of sensor safe silicon set to the top of the filter, to a full aftermarket air box – such as the one pictured that clamps down hard on the filter element.

FEEDING THE TURBO

The air box flows well, but the same can’t be said for the crossover pipe from the air box to the inlet of the turbocharger, as it really necks down just before the turbocharger inlet.

An aftermarket one, such as the one pictured, will give your turbocharger a fighting chance. On average, it’ll give your rig an extra 10kW at the wheels for any turbo low-mount set-up.

THE TURBOCHARGER

THIS is where all the magic happens for the 1VD. Both the 70 and 200 Series use variable geometry turbos (VGTs), also known as variable nozzle turbines (VNTs), the difference being the 70 Series has one turbocharger and the 200 two.

VGTs don’t utilise a traditional waste gate, which is a valve able to bypass the exhaust gasses past the exhaust turbine wheel, to control the speed of the turbo and therefore the level of boost.

They use a series of movable vanes located around the periphery of the exhaust turbine that are able to direct either more or less exhaust gasses through the exhaust turbine. The advantage of this is that, at low speed, the turbo is able to act like a smaller turbocharger, with the boost coming on sooner in the rev range.

Then, at higher rpm, the vanes can bypass more of the exhaust gas, allowing continuous boost higher in the rev range. This leads to a much wider torque output and comes close to eliminating dreaded ‘turbo lag’.

The 70 Series VGT is controlled by the vacuum produced by the engine, and the 200 Series VGT is controlled by the ECU. Anyone who has driven both the standard 70 and 200 will attest to how much better the twin VGT ECU-controlled set-up is.

However, if you’re looking for better torque output from your 70 for towing a caravan or the like, the aftermarket has the answers you’re looking for and they’re only a phone call away.

The standard single turbocharger is reputably good all the way up to about 22 psi from a standard boost figure of around 8psi. This will see a sizeable increase of power and torque.

If you’re looking for more performance than a standard turbocharger can provide, the aftermarket can almost accommodate you as quickly as you can whip out the credit card. A ‘high-flowed’ standard charger can replace the cross shaft with a larger 8mm version (up from 5mm), as well as aftermarket exhaust turbines and compressor wheels and their respective housings.

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You’ll get more boost, with many ‘high-flowed’ turbochargers for the 1VD capable of an efficient 32psi. To gain the extra top end, however, you’ll compromise bottom-end lag. At this stage, the standard intercooler is having trouble with both the flow and heat produced by the upgraded turbocharger. So you’ll need to start looking toward the aftermarket.

Steve Booth from Power Torque Victoria pointed out: “The factory intercooler cools pretty well up to about 22 pounds of boost. After that it’s found a little wanting.”

FUEL INJECTORS

THE standard injectors will fuel your rig right up to about 200kW at the wheels. If your power goals are in excess of 200kW, you’re able to source +30 per cent, +50 per cent and +70 per cent, though at these levels your pockets better not be empty, as they’ll cost you around $4000-4500 fitted.

EMISSIONS

CRANKCASE GAS RECIRCULATION

AS PART of the emissions used on modern engines, the combustion gasses that blow past the piston rings can’t be vented to the atmosphere and are plumbed directly into the inlet before the intercooler. While it’s a great idea to recycle the gasses, unfortunately atomised oils are carried into your intercooler as well.

Thankfully, you can easily and legally do something about it. Simply plumb the crankcase gas via a catch can, as the filtering system condenses the airborne atomised oil, which needs to be periodically emptied.

Steve Booth said: “The oil running back through the intercooler (from the CGR) creates a thermal barrier, making the intercooler less efficient.”

EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR)

EGR was introduced to combat Nitrogen Oxide (NOx) emissions. Introducing burnt exhaust gases into the inlet reduces the combustion chamber temperature, leading to less NOx out the tailpipe.

Unfortunately, in a diesel, introducing exhaust gases into the inlet increases the particulate matter (primarily unburnt carbon) that is reintroduced via the EGR, working its way past the piston rings, acidifying the oil, and putting fine abrasive material in the oil to reduce the longevity of the engine.

Additionally, adding the exhaust gases reduces the specific heat ratio of the engine on the power stroke – the effect of this is that less power is able to be produced. To combat the increased particulate matter, manufacturers have introduced particulate filters. If the vehicle is to be used strictly off-road, without having to maintain registration, an ECU remap can integrate turning off the EGR valve.

DIESEL PARTICULATE FILTER (DPF)

AS A result of increased particulate matter, DPFs have been introduced on the latest versions of both the 70 and 200 Series, and they filter a large proportion of particulate matter from the exhaust stream.

Eventually, the particulate matter fills the filter to a point where it needs to be emptied – this is called ‘filter regeneration’. If the vehicle does plenty of stop-start driving, the filter may not reach a temperature where the ECU is able to regenerate the filter on the go.

Fortunately, Toyota saw fit to add a manual burn facility that can be activated by the user via a button on the dash.

Unfortunately, the DPF provides a major exhaust restriction – decreasing power and increasing exhaust backpressure that hurts the performance of the turbocharger and increases fuel consumption. As usual, the aftermarket is leading the way with performance alternatives. Just as when catalytic converters were introduced along with unleaded fuel all those years ago, there were cries of the end of performance modifications.

These days, a high flow cat is just a phone call away. In the not-too-distant future, the same will be the situation for the DPF.

If your 70 is for off-road use only, DPF delete kits are already hitting the shelves. With an accompanying ECU tune, a DPF can be a thing of the past.

EXHAUST

BACKPRESSURE is every turbochargers nemesis. Anything you can do to reduce the backpressure experienced by the turbocharger will have positive gains. However, you’ll have to keep it quiet enough not to wake the neighbours when leaving home at 2am. The turbocharger goes some way to quieting things down, but you’ll still need to add a muffler to the equation.

A well-designed three-inch system using mandrel bends will suffice for all but the most radical builds. Four-inch systems are available; though, in reality, adds little to the power output. They do, however, cost twice as much; though some prefer its slightly different note.

The crossover pipe that feeds the right cylinder bank’s exhaust to the turbocharger is very restrictive as well; though, you can’t see it from the outside, where the flexible joints are extremely restrictive.

Again, it’s the aftermarket to the rescue, and several aftermarket vendors offer crossover pipes of around a constant 50mm diameter internally, including the flex joints.

Aftermarket exhausts will integrate an increased diameter ‘dump pipe’. This section of the exhaust pipe is of a larger diameter than the rest of the exhaust system (for example, the four-inch system will have a five-inch dump pipe), resulting in minimal restriction to the hot exhaust gasses exiting directly from the exhaust. This allows for a quicker spool, which means boost will build sooner under WOT.

WRANGLING PIXIES

WHEN it comes to tuning the ECU, there are a few options available to you. First, there’s the ‘ECU remap’, where the tuner re-writes the information on the computer that controls the car. Alternatively, an aftermarket chip can offer the driver multiple maps to suit the driving they’ll be doing.

You could have one map that’ll be tuned for economy, another which gives as much torque as possible low in the rev range for towing a caravan, and another that’ll raise the idle speed a few hundred rpm to increase the alternator output for winching. Look for a unit that has the ability to read the level of boost and can also read the throttle position – it’ll be more responsive.

12-volt air compressor comparison

The ability to ‘live tune’, that is, make changes to the maps parameters while the engine is running, will cut down on the dyno time versus the traditional process of writing to the chip with the engine stopped and then assessing the changes on the next dyno run.

More important than the hardware, though, is the person tapping away at the keyboard. Buy once, cry once is definitely the motto to go for here. Do your research, talk to other owners about their experiences with various tuners, and let them do their job. Cheaping out on the thriftiest quote will only lead to tears down the track.

PUSHING THE ENVELOPE

MOST owners will be amazed what a simple tune, chip, new exhaust or bumping up the boost will do. Your humble scribe drove Steve of Power Torque’s 79 with a remap exhaust and boost. It completely transformed the mid-range torque. Potting along at a little over 1500rpm in second gear, a simple press of the accelerator lit up a rear tyre!

For some, there isn’t such a thing as too much power. How does 426kW and around 1100Nm at the wheels grab you? You’ll need aftermarket turbos, an inlet manifold and all the fruit that goes into a high-end build.

To get there, though, you’ll need cubic dollars and NOS. That’s right, at the bleeding edge of 1VD-FTV power output, tuners are using a 200 shot of N20 on the dragstrip. And, as they always say, if you have to ask how much, you probably can’t afford it.

WATCH us have fun jumping this rough-and-ready JK Rubicon on some off-road tracks.

Vote for the Jeep JK Unlimited Wrangler Rubicon to win the 2017 Custom 4×4 of the Year

The JK Unlimited is one of the most popular 4x4s out on the tracks right now, but most pale in comparison to owner Bill’s Rubicon.

As stock, the JK Rubicon comes with plenty of cool kit, including a beefy front axle, lower case gearing, rock sliders and an electronically disconnecting front swaybar.

This highly modified JK steps it up a notch again, thanks mainly to the crew at Double Black Offroad who went through the Jeep from front to rear prior to dealer delivery.

Up front is a DBOR stubby bar for greater wheel exposure, which provides greater approach angles, as well as a Smittybilt winch and controversial Smittybilt mesh grille. Lightforce HTX230 driving lights reside up top.

The JK Unlimited sits 4.5 inches higher thanks to a full Double Black Offroad Wild Kit, which replaced the factory suspension links with heavy duty adjustable items from Synergy Manufacturing. Taller Rubicon Express coils were also added front and rear.

Among a heap of other kit, features include a Daystar hood cowl, an AEV snorkel, Airaid air box, DBOR flat fender flares, Smittybilt XRC rock sliders, DBOR rocker guards, Smittybilt Atlas rear bar, and Teraflex removable mud flaps.

What about that hue? “It’s Sunset Orange, which is a rare colour,” Bill said. “And it matches General Lee from Dukes of Hazzard.”

Watch the monster JK tackle steep tracks with aplomb in the above video.

To read our full review of this incredible 4×4, buy the August issue of 4X4 Australia – in stores now.