WALKINSHAW Performance is readying a 300kW-plus twin-turbo petrol V6 version of the Holden Colorado.

The top secret project – known as Wildfire, a name recently registered by the Walkinshaw Group – involves shoehorning the LF3 3.6-litre twin-turbo V6 used in the Cadillac CTS V-Sport under the bonnet of the Colorado dual-cab 4×4.

It arrives as brands as diverse as Ford, Toyota and Mercedes-Benz look to expand the reach – and performance – of their top-end utes.

For the Walkinshaw Group – which also produces HSVs for Holden – the Wildfire is the first step towards a new breed of high performance road cars. However, the company is tight-lipped for now.

“We make a point of not discussing future models or business strategy,” Walkinshaw Performance general manager, Gary Beer, said. “There are many projects we are exploring, but until we have a specific vehicle solution in place we won’t be adding to the speculation.”

The high-tech, blown V6 in the Wildfire belts out up 313kW and 583Nm in the Cadillac CTS V-Sport, which should be enough to propel the workhorse ute to 100km/h in about 5.5 seconds – assuming it can get the grunt to the gravel.

While the Wildfire project is yet to get the green light, engineers have already trialled the engine locally and are working through numerous challenges, many of which involve developing software to get the Cadillac engine ‘talking’ to the rest of the Colorado’s electrical architecture.

The design element is more straightforward and, despite the project being in its infancy, has already been envisioned. Expect a blacked-out bonnet bulge with additional venting to cool the engine utilised by GM’s luxury brand, Cadillac.

2017 Holden Colorado Storm arrives

The matte black theme will continue throughout, while designers are also expected to utilise HSV’s skills in altering body panels. The Wildfire could get flared front wheel arches to house larger, more aggressive rubber.

Dampers are a key focus for the Wildfire, with the aim of better tying it down and utilising more aggressive rubber. Also expect engineers to play with reduced spring rates, with the view to lowering the load capacity – forget the classic one-tonner – and instead adding more control and suppleness; working over a narrower load band allows finer tuning for the sporty focus.

Also expect sizeable AP Racing brakes, something that would leverage the Walkinshaw Racing relationship. However, despite the substantial suspension development, engineers are committed to ensuring the Wildfire maintains the Colorado’s off-road nous.

If it’s given the green light – engineers are quietly optimistic – the Wildfire would have a seriously broad remit and be one of the few cars to undergo extensive development work on racetracks and dirt trails. But it’s what’s beneath the skin that promises to separate the Wildfire from the emerging breed of go-fast utes.

Whereas the ute market is almost exclusively diesel, the twin-turbo petrol V6 ups the performance ante big time, all but guaranteeing a monstrous leap over rivals, the most serious of which is shaping up to be the Ford Ranger Raptor.

While Ford announced it is deep in development of the fettled Ranger, it has not confirmed what engine will be used. Like the rest of the Ranger line-up in Australia, the Raptor will utilise a diesel powertrain for Australia.

Engineers are currently working on a new 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel, which could outpunch the 147kW/470Nm 3.2-litre five-cylinder in the current Ranger. However, the bulk of the focus will be on major suspension modifications aimed at giving it some Trophy Truck off-road toughness.

It’s that dual personality that is shaping the new breed of hot utes. HSV is also working on a version of the Colorado; although, that car will use a diesel engine. Toyota, too, is looking to capitalise on interest in its TRD Hilux with a fully fledged model rather than the dealer pack that was a toe in the water.

Engineers are currently working on a more serious iteration of the TRD. However, don’t expect any changes to the modest 2.8-litre four-cylinder diesel, with 130kW set to be the limit for the medium term. Instead the efforts will be on styling and off-road capability; think big wheels and suspension, along with additional underbody protection.

Then, of course, there’s the German diesel V6s in the form of Merc X-Class and Volkswagen Amarok, which both put out 550Nm in current form.

JUST as everyone has an opinion on what tyres – and what pressures to run them at on various terrains – are best suited to a four-wheel drive, it seems many people have their own idea on the correct way to rotate the tyres to optimise longevity.

If you’re asking what we mean by tyre rotation, because, hey, they are rotating all the time when the car is moving, then let us clear that up. No matter what tyre or brand of tyre you’re using on your vehicle – and no matter how you use it – you should rotate their position on the vehicle to optimise wear rate and longevity.

Some people say you just swap them front to rear, others like to swap them side to side, and then there’s the idea of putting the spare into the rotation so you don’t end up with four worn and one unused-but-old tyre.

So, with 10,000km on them since we fitted a set of BFGoodrich KO2s to photographer Ellen Dewar’s FJ Cruiser, and with an extensive outback trip coming up, we decided to ask the experts about the best tyre-rotation method.

These are the BFGs we had fitted to our long-term Mazda BT-50 last year, and they did around 6000km on that car before we pulled them off to give the car back. Ellen was looking for some tyres better suited to off-road use for the FJ, so, after we checked the sizing matched, we pulled them out of the shed and fitted them.

After 10,000km on the FJ we also had two unused spares to include in the rotation. Ellen also found a rivet in one of the rear tyres and, although it wasn’t losing air, we thought it should be looked at before heading bush.

BFGoodrich’s Product Marketing Manager Peter Heatley met us at the Tyres Plus store to give us an expert opinion and, to our surprise, his first piece of advice was to check the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation.

The FJ Cruiser Owner’s Handbook recommends tyres be rotated every 10,000km by fitting the unused spare to the near-side front wheel; the near-side front to the off-side rear wheel; the off-side rear to off-side front; the off-side front to near-side rear; and the near-side rear goes to the spare.

This is for the FJC which is a part-time 4WD, so most of the time it is operating as rear-wheel drive when it’s not off-road. As such, the rear tyres should wear more than those fitted to the front of the vehicle.

Peter Heatley backed up Toyota’s recommendation by advising to swap the rears straight to the front, with a front-to-rear crossing over the fronts when they move back. But Peter said that more important than going by the book was to inspect the tyres for wear and damage before you do anything.

“Consumers are strongly encouraged to visually inspect their tyres for cuts, trapped objects and deformations and inflation pressure on a monthly basis,” he said. “Any change in dynamic performance, such as increased air loss, noise or vibration, could be an indication of an underlying issue.”

As expected, the inspection of the FJ’s tyres showed the rears were wearing slightly more than the fronts, while even wear around the vehicle suggested no problems with wheel alignment or suspension wear. The rivet in the near-side rear tyre was a problem however, and on removing the offending spike from the tyre it released all the air.

Being on the outside edge of the tyre tread, the puncture was deemed unsafe to repair and the tyre unserviceable. Bugger! The best rotation in this case was to fit the two as yet unused tyres to the rear wheels as they would wear faster there, and then move the off-side rear to spare.

The fronts stayed where they were and will be rotated to the rear after another 10,000km, a mark that will be coming up soon following a 3500km adventure on harsh, stony outback roads.

PRESSURE POINTS

SOMETHING a tyre technician will be looking for when inspecting tyres for wear and condition is correct pressure. Everyone has their own idea on what is right when it comes to tyre pressure, but a good place to start is with the manufacturer’s recommendation which is found on a plaque usually in a door jamb or sometimes inside the glovebox lid.

If you have changed your tyre size from the original on the vehicle placard, you should check with the tyre manufacturer – the pressure schedule for a 265/65R17 is not the same as a LT265/65R17.

Run to these specs for normal day-to-day use and adjust to conditions; raise the pressure if you are carrying a heavy load; drop it for gravel road or harsh terrain; and drop it further for driving over sand or snow.

Always remember to return your tyres to spec when you get back to normal operating conditions, as this will ensure the longest possible tyre life and best ride and performance.

JEEP has confirmed it will unleash a partial electric version of its JL Wrangler, and that it will be more capable than the vehicles fitted only with an internal combustion engine.

In revealing the all-new Wrangler at the 2017 Los Angeles Motor Show, Jeep boss Mike Manley made the surprise announcement that “a full plug-in electric Jeep Wrangler will be available in 2020, furthering our commitment to all those who value responsible, sustainable enjoyment of the great outdoors and, very importantly, future-proofing this Wrangler for generations to come”.

While Manley didn’t specifically refer to the new model as a hybrid, he later referenced a petrol engine, which would logically be a version of the new 201kW/400Nm 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo that won’t initially be offered on Wranglers in Australia.

Manley also confirmed the addition of an electric motor would be used to further the capability of Jeep’s most capable model. “To me it makes a lot of sense for us to have [electric motors] in our vehicles to enhance our capability with the added benefit of the fuel economy enhancement,” he told 4X4 Australia.

“So then the only thing really is about how do you want to calibrate it … for max fuel economy … or for torque deployment.” Clearly off-road capability and the smooth and easy-to-regulate power delivery of an electric motor is being used to boost the off-road nous of the Wrangler.

New Jeep Wrangler to receive lightweight panels

“The most important thing for us is to make sure we balance the gas engine in the hybrid to deliver the torque that we need at the time that we need it.” While he wouldn’t go into details – refusing to stipulate whether the electric motor would work on one axle, for example, as it does in some SUVs – he did add that Jeep engineers “have struck a really good balance”.

The hybrid system was designed from the outset for the JL Wrangler architecture, which uses many aluminium body panels (Australian cars, however, get steel bonnets to meet local pedestrian protection regulations). He also hinted that it would be offered on two- and four-door variants.

“Obviously we want to make sure whenever you’re packaging something like that, the batteries are unobtrusive, it doesn’t detract from what the vehicle stands for and that, obviously, is capability. So, again, that was an important consideration for us.”

As for leveraging the electric technology currently deep in development for the Wrangler, Manley said it is certain. “It’s inevitable that Jeep is going to go through more electrification, particularly as you get into the 20s. But you will see more electrification.

One of the things we really wanted to do was to future proof this vehicle; it’s the icon of the brand. As we get into the 20s, depending on which region you’re in, obviously the fuel economy and emissions get stricter and stricter.”

With the JL Wranger hybrid due in 2020 it’s not yet known whether it will be offered in Australia, something that could come down to future emissions targets and regulations, which are yet to be set.

ALPANA Station, a 200km² working sheep property just outside the Flinders Ranges National Park, is located on the main road north of the popular tourist destination of Wilpena Pound and a few kilometres south of the small outback town of Blinman.

The station has been in the Henery family since 1878 and the fifth-generation owners of the station, David and Sally Henery, opened the property to the public in 1995 offering a range of accommodation options. As well as shearers’ quarters with shared facilities offering basic but comfortable accommodation, the station has both powered and unpowered campsites.

Each of the four powered sites has an adjacent private en suite bathroom, providing campers a level of comfort and convenience not often enjoyed in what is a relatively remote area. Anyone seeking a secluded getaway for a few days could do worse than stay at the Henery’s Nungawurtina Hut.

Built in the traditional style used by the original 1880s settlers, this native pine and pug hut, nestled in a secluded valley 7km from the homestead, is ideal for those wishing to get up close and personal with nature. The hut sleeps six people and features 12V solar lighting, an open fire, gas stove and toilet (but no shower or refrigerator).

Access to the hut is via a rough and rutted station track requiring a high clearance 4×4, making it an ideal place to rest up for a few days – the Henery’s can provide transport to and from the hut for anyone without an appropriate vehicle. Alpana also provides station tours and a guided tag-along drive to Blinman Pools.

This area of permanent waterholes and springs can otherwise only be accessed by way of a 12km return public walking track from Angorichina Village to the west of Blinman. At the time of our visit in September the Flinders hadn’t seen rain for six months and, with the water level in the pools quite low, we elected to visit them another time when the country will be lusher.

The Flinders Ranges is a great place to visit at any time of the year, but after significant rain in August/September – when native shrubs and wildflowers are making the most of their brief growing season – it is nothing short of spectacular. One of the station’s scenic highlights is Sunset Hill, located 4km from the homestead via a 4×4 track.

This high point on a bare ridge offers commanding panoramic views over the station to the east and Lake Torrens to the west. As its name suggests, sunset is the time to be there – ideally with a bottle of your chosen poison. The station is dog-friendly and visitors are welcome to bring along the family pooch, provided they’re properly controlled.

As with all grazing properties, dogs must be kept on a leash for the safety of both stock and wildlife – and the potential for poisoning from 1080 baits laid for foxes and wild dogs. Alpana Station rarely uses poison baits but, when it does, it’s never near the accommodation or camping areas.

For 4×4 enthusiasts, the Mt Samuel self-drive track is a knockout. Its ‘challenging’ description is accurate, as Mt Samuel offers one of the most technically demanding public self-drives you’re likely to find in the Flinders.

The five-hour one-way trek is slow due to sharp washouts punctuating the rutted and rocky track every few metres as it climbs slowly through dry, shaly hills studded with native cypress. The first challenge involves a short, steep climb up a series of small rock ledges in a narrow creek bed, which would most likely be a waterfall following heavy rain.

Sally Henery suggested removing our tow hitch before starting the drive and, while this has never been an issue for the lifted Prado, it proved to be good advice as the Mt Samuel track regularly challenged both front and rear clearance.

A long climb to the highest point of the drive ends just below Mt Samuel itself, where the more athletic can walk to the summit in about 30 minutes. It’s worth taking a break at this point on the drive just to soak up the atmosphere and the stunning views towards Lake Torrens in the west.

From this high point below Mt Samuel, it’s then a fairly serious crawl downhill in first gear low range into the aptly named Mt Buggery Gorge. Anyone without serious 4×4 experience – or without someone guiding them through the tough spots – may struggle with what lies ahead.

Upon leaving Mt Buggery Gorge, the track crosses a wide, dry creek to enter a picturesque valley which it follows several kilometres south to meet the road to Blinman. The scenery is excellent and the valley relatively green and lush, despite the extended dry spell – it would be spectacular when carpeted with native grasses and wildflowers after rain.

This latter part of the drive – despite being more open – still keeps drivers on their toes, given the dips and washaways that regularly punctuate the rough track. With great scenery, pleasant and welcoming accommodation, and 4×4 challenges aplenty, Alpana Station will please anyone who ventures to the Flinders Ranges.

TRAVEL PLANNER

WHERE Alpana Station is located in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges, 6km south of Blinman and 500km north of Adelaide.

WHEN TO TRAVEL April to September offers the most pleasant conditions – daytime temperatures can reach mid 20s, but overnight it can fall to near zero. Summers are harsh and hot, with temperatures often above 40ºC. In spring, a few weeks after significant rainfall, you can expect to see the station at its best with wildflowers and a carpet of fresh green growth.

SUPPLIES Campers need to be self-sufficient with regards to food. Nearby Blinman doesn’t have fuel but it does support a hotel and general store, the latter stocks a range of basic foodstuffs including frozen meat and bread. Fuel and some supplies are available at Angorichina, 15km east of Blinman.

ROAD CONDITIONS Alpana homestead, 200 metres off the sealed Wilpena to Blinman Road, has easy, all-weather access. Station tracks require a 4×4 with good clearance (ideally high clearance). Reduced tyre pressure and good all terrain tyres are recommended for the Mt Samuel self-drive track.

CONTACTS Alpana Station Phone: (08) 8648 4626 www.alpanastation.com

LAND Cruiser 200 Series owners can fit their four-wheel drives with a limited edition (only 100 will be built), Australian-designed bullbar from TJM.

The TJM Patriot Bar is made to order and is an all-new design. The bar features an individually numbered TJM Patriot badge, laser-cut TJM wing feature, integrated LED foglights and space for a light bar, driving lights and terrain camera, plus it has provision for parking sensors.

As you’d expect the bar is built tough; with an integrated winch mount catering for winches up to 12,000lb, 8000kg recovery point rating, and T-Slot jack points, the LE Patriot bar is not just all bling. The bar comes powder-coated black, but can be colour-coded to suit your vehicle.

There are two models: one that suits the GX, GXL and VX LC200, and the other is suited for the Sahara LC200, with its forward facing camera. There’s also a supplementary sensor and headlight washer blanking kit for those models with no sensors or washers.

The TJM Limited Edition Patriot bullbar retails for $3000.

V8 70 Series Cruiser owners who have the factory raised-air intake should take note that the three-piece product isn’t sealed against water ingress.

Yep, that’s correct, it’s not a real snorkel for deep-water wading; it’s only a raised-air intake for cleaner air. Sure, there are a few options with replacements, but, for my Troopy with its free-flowing mandrel-bent exhaust and modest power upgrade via a DP Chip, I wanted as much clean air shoved down its gob as possible to allow the engine to feed the best it can.

The huge four-inch-throated Safari Armax snorkel is said to flow up to 70 per cent more than both the OE snorkel and its own standard-sized Safari replacement, while offering a water-tight system that won’t feed water into the engine during deep water crossings. The snorkel is UV stabilised, comes with a lifetime warranty, and is made in Australia.

From the four-inch opening with the ram head atop, air flows down the A pillar and along a bulbous tube on the front ’guard that measures up to roughly 15cm in diameter (that’s huge) before being squeezed into a modified airbox inlet.

During fitment of the snorkel, the airbox is also cut and modified with the included hardware to ensure maximum airflow through the air filter, which is left as standard.

Some water will enter the ram head when driving in the rain, but the design of the head base allows water to escape via slots and mouldings, preventing engine harm due to water ingress. In highly dusty conditions where you’re following other vehicles too closely, dust will get in.

You have two choices here: slow down to separate yourself from the vehicle in front; or loosen the ram head, rotate it and retighten it using a Phillips screwdriver. You’ll lose any air-ram effect by doing this, but it should only be a temporary change.

Since installation of the Armax snorkel, the 4.5-litre engine seems to spin up smoother and faster than before, resulting in improved acceleration – I haven’t had it dyno’d, so this is just a seat-of-the-pants observation. Fuel consumption use hasn’t been checked over long enough periods to be sure of any improvements, so the jury is out on that at the moment.

In addition, the suffocated air-induction noise from the OE snorkel head has gone, suggesting there are no air restrictions with the Safari Armax kit installed – a great indication of how much more free-flowing it now is.

DIY installation is possible, but there is a lot of cutting (outer mudguard, airbox and extra holes in the panel work) to mount the whole system. I opted for my local ARB outlet in Port Macquarie, NSW, to do the job for me. Watch how easy they make it look.

AVAILABLE FROM: www.arb.com.au RRP: $594 (plus fitting) WE SAY: Sealed system essential for all V8 70 Series Cruisers

IRONMAN 4X4 continues its amazing growth in the aftermarket scene here in Australia, with the announcement it has just opened its 75th interactive showroom.

These new outlets bring the company’s always expanding range of 4×4 touring gear and accessories to even more customers.

The most recent Ironman 4X4 stores to open include Canberra Caravan & 4X4 in Fyshwick, ACT; Hunter East Coast 4×4 in Tuncurry, NSW; Bridgestone Select in Pimpama, QLD; and another Sunshine State outlet – Peninsula 4×4 – at Clontarf in QLD.

As with other Ironman 4X4 store openings, these are showcased via family-friendly events with kids entertainment, food, drinks, some awesome giveaways, the Ironman 4X4 team on-hand, and plenty of 4x4s adorned with the company’s accessories on display.

It’s an incredibly busy time for Ironman 4X4, with the company not showing any signs of slowing down – it has a roll-out calendar that’s booked up to about 12 months ahead, for new retail outlets.

HAVE you priced-up kitting out a new 4×4 these days?

Tick the boxes for just the basics like big-name bullbars, fancy alloy wheels and laser-beam driving lights and you’re quickly looking at an invoice in the thousands. Hell, open the chequebook and that figure could climb even higher. Sure, you’ll end up with a killer 4×4 with all the good bits, but is it the best way to spend your hard-earned?

A boilermaker by trade, Queensland native Jamin figured he’d rather sink his hard-earned into travel than accessories, so he fired up the welder, dusted off the grinder, and set to work building the well-travelled Holden Colorado you’re looking at now.

While the RG Colorado looks far from stock now, Jamin picked it up brand-spanking new just three years ago. Since then, he’s pieced it together one modification at a time to get it ready for serious exploring. We’ll kick things off at the top with the unmistakable roof-mounted tinny.

Boat loaders aren’t unusual, but they’re not normally something knocked up by the owner themselves – even rarer are ones that kick up and out of the way with a set of gas struts, to allow the roof-top tent to fold out for the ultimate beach camp set-up.

The custom set-up is zapped together with a combination of box-tube and sheet steel, and it bolts directly to the factory tub. The unique arrangement also houses a set of traction boards on the driver’s side, with the passenger side stowing a high-lift jack and long-handled shovel.

Both sides lift up revealing the bush-proven camping set-up nestled inside, where a set of Titan alloy drawers hold everything from recovery gear to cooking equipment. There’s also a Waeco CF80L fridge strapped down to the included fridge slide, while the Mercury outboard engine finds a home between heavy-duty tie-downs.

The fridge is fed a constant supply of power thanks to a second battery tucked away inside a box behind the drawers, with a 20A Thunder Auto DC-DC charger keeping the lights on. Before calling job done on the Colorado’s rear end, Jamin fired up the trusty grinder again, this time to lose the rear quarters on the tub.

Replacing them is a seriously stout DIY rear bar incorporating twin jerry can holders and a swing-out tyre carrier. With the spare tyre up and out of the way, Jamin was able to slot in a 70L water tank and 12V water pump set-up.

2017 Holden Colorado Storm arrives

Moving down the flanks of the RG, Jamin fired up the welder again, this time in the form of a one-off basket-style roof rack. It’s lined with tight-knit wire mesh, so it makes the perfect place to store extra camping gear – it also houses a roll-out awning for those sunny days on the tracks, which is really handy.

At the pointy end of the Holden is a bullbar unlike any you’ve seen before. “It was one of two prototype bars a small company knocked up,” Jamin told us. “I used the foundation then cut and shut it to my specs. I’ve added all the top hoops, too, and reinforced the bar to run a larger winch than it was designed for.”

That larger winch is a Tigerz11 12,000lb unit wrapped in synthetic rope. The credit card also got swiped for a set of no-name LED spot lights front and centre, with a set of matching LED light bars off to the side lighting up Jamin’s peripherals for stray ’roos.

The lighting package is rounded out with a set of projector lights replacing the stock headlights, giving the Colorado an updated look and adding extra reach before the spotlights need to be called into action. The huge factory wheel arches front and rear have been stuffed full of 315/75R16 Hankook Dynapro tyres, which puts them around 34.6-inch.

Wheels are classic Dynamic 16×8 -22 steelies, and Jamin fit a set of Kut Snake over-fender flares to keep the wheels within the confines of the body without attracting too much attention from Mr Plod. Of course, all the flares in the world won’t help if the tyres physically don’t fit in the wheel arches, so a significant altitude adjustment was required.

After a lot of planning and careful measuring the body is now sitting a full 50mm higher above the frame thanks to a body lift front to rear. The front suspension copped an additional four inches with a set of adjustable Bilstein shocks and coils.

Adjustable upper control arms were also called for to get the wheel alignment back into spec, while a custom diff-drop was needed to flatten out the CV angle and avoid premature wear. The rear copped a similar lift, though this time it’s in the form of 300kg constant load EFS springs backed up by a set of Snake Racing extended shackles.

The original shocks were soon turfed after finding they couldn’t cope with the new-found rear articulation, and in their place are a set of off-the-shelf extended shocks. With such an extensive list of touring modifications you’d be forgiven for assuming there’s a host of go-fast goodies under the bonnet to move it all along – “it actually makes plenty of power stock,” Jamin told us.

With 500Nm right out of the factory floor, the 2.8L Duramax easily outclassed every other dual cab ute in terms of sheer grunt when it first came out, even muscling around the 4.5L V8 in 70 Series Cruisers.

Of course, Jamin isn’t a leave-it-alone kind of bloke, so despite the Duramax punching out plenty of grunt in stock form it still copped a three-inch turbo back exhaust system for a little extra bark, while the stainless snorkel and airbox help improve airflow.

Swing open the doors and it’s immediately clear the Collie copped plenty of attention on the inside. Navigation is taken care of by a VMS GPS unit, while comms are handled on two fronts: A GME UHF allows easy communication in convoy or to other 4x4s, while a Bury unit helps keep Jamin in phone range as long as possible.

To cut down on road noise and make it more comfortable for long black-top days, the interior was gutted before being fully lined with Dynamat sound deadening and pieced back together. A set of ubiquitous seat covers also got the nod, but before Jamin could call things done he took to the centre console with a grinder to install an 8L Waeco centre console fridge.

We’ve come across plenty of big-dollar builds here at 4X4 Australia and, sure, they’re always exciting. However, it’s easy to forget that the whole purpose of buying and building a 4×4 is to get you exploring and enjoying Australia, and that’s something Jamin has hit head on with his DIY tourer.

WHEELIN’ FREE

EAGLE-EYED RG Colorado owners might notice there’s something a little off with Jamin’s front hubs. In factory configuration the RG Colorado utilises drive-flanges permanently connecting the wheels to the rest of the drivetrain (like most modern 4x4s).

It’s a fool-proof solution, but the downside is the CV joints are constantly spinning, as is the diff centre. A free-wheeling hub allows you to physically break that connection when 4×4 isn’t required, resulting in less driveline drag as well as less wear and tear on the CV joints and front diff.

After fitting a set of factory Aisin free-wheeling-hubs off an older TF Rodeo, Jamin’s seeing fuel figures as low as low as 14L/100km on 35-inch tyres when towing a 1500kg caravan.

A CLOSER LOOK

Tyred

Classic Dynamic steelies (16×8 -22) wrapped in 315/75R16 Hankook Dynapro tyres fill the factory wheel arches nicely.

Bar work

Jamin took to the bar himself and now a larger winch and LED spotlights feature. Projector lights also replace the stock units.

Keeping cool

Chilling the soft drinks on the inside is another Waeco fridge. This time an 8L unit sits where the centre console used to be.

Tanked

A 70-litre custom water tank is tucked neatly under the tray and behind the Jamin-built rear bar.

Raised up

A four-inch lift was aided by new Bilstein adjustable shocks and coils (front) and EFS lift springs and extended shackles (back).

IT’S half past five in the morning, and the higher parts of the Great Dividing Range in NSW’s Central Tablelands are blanketed with snow.

This article was first published in 4×4 Australia’s September 2011 issue.

The VW’s ice warning is telling me the obvious: it’s bloody cold outside. Worst still, the paucity of wheel tracks in the fresh snow ahead suggest I’m one of the first mugs out of bed and onto this snow-covered back road this wintery morn. Not that the snow is consistently thick.

The strong winds mean it is coming in more horizontal than vertical. In the lee of the plantation pines that line the road, or adjacent to the road’s many cuttings, the bitumen is as good as snow-free. In exposed areas, however, the snowdrifts seem quite deep, given the at-times unnerving feel of the steering wheel.

I’m driving Volkswagen’s new Amarok. It’s a Highline model fitted with what VW calls 4Motion Selectable; what you or I would call part-time, dual-range 4X4, and essentially the same sort of system found in your typical Japanese ute.

I’m meeting with my road-test partner, who’s driving an Ultimate Amarok fitted with 4Motion Permanent which, in layman’s terms, is single-range, full-time 4X4. He’s coming up from Sydney, a couple of hundred kays from where I am now, with no doubt decidedly warmer weather.

The purpose of this test is to compare the two different Amarok 4X4 systems and, ironically, the conditions I’m now facing are tailor-made for the Amarok I’m not driving.

THE BASICS

VW’s Amarok, which is currently only available as a dual-cab with manual transmission, follows the basic design parameters of its Japanese competition in as much as it’s built on a separate chassis, has a leaf-sprung live axle at the rear and independent (in this case coil springs and double wishbones) front suspension.

The part-time, dual-range 4X4 system also follows accepted design practice in this class. Where the Amarok differs from the likes of HiLux, Navara and Triton, is with the availability of the single-range full-time 4X4 system (in the top-spec model), and with its engine.

Whereas the norm with the Japanese utes is either a 2.5 or 3.0-litre single-turbo four-cylinder diesel, the Amarok uses a 2.0-litre bi-turbo four-cylinder diesel. The Amarok’s two turbos are different sizes and arranged in sequence, rather than in parallel. Off idle, and at lower engine speeds and loads, the smaller of the two turbos gets things underway.

As the speed and loads increase, the bigger turbo gradually takes over, at first working in partnership with the smaller, but eventually running the show on its own.

WHAT’S THE SAME?

Whether you’re driving the Amarok with 4Motion Selectable or 4Motion Permanent, you’ll be impressed by the performance and general civility of the bi-turbo diesel engine. Compared to its Japanese rivals, it is quiet, smooth and refined. It also offers an encouraging spread of power from not far off idle, almost through to redline.

For a manual, it’s quite tall geared (around 58km/h/1000rpm in sixth) yet, on the highways and byways, it carries this tall gearing with aplomb, storming up decent hills in top gear without even thinking of asking for a lower cog. For this you can thank the 400Nm of torque available from as low as 1500rpm.

Given the tall gearing, this means maximum torque is available in top gear from below 90km/h all the way to 145km/h. Claimed maximum power is a reasonable – but not stunning – 120kW. So, while the engine’s flexibility is first-class, it’s no barnstormer in the higher reaches. It does, however, offer excellent economy.

The official ADR figure for the full-time and part-time models is 7.9L/100km, and both our test vehicles averaged a respectable 9.1L/100km over a broad mixture of driving conditions. That’s marginally better than what you’d expect of any of the Japanese competition under similar circumstances.

Not so good is the combination of the clutch take up and the engine’s idle-speed torque, which conspire to make take-offs something of an art. Thankfully, practice, as they say, makes perfect. The gearbox also needs some familiarity, as the gate is not as well defined as it could be, and very closely spaced.

It’s pretty good once on the move, but finding third when you’re looking for first is too easy to do until you get used to it.

WHAT’S DIFFERENT?

Leaving aside the fact that the 4Motion Permanent system is only available in the top-spec Ultimate model, which comes with leather seats and 19-inch wheels, there are a few other key differences.

While the Ultimate can be had with the 4Motion Selectable system, when you opt for the 4Motion Permanent system, you also get what’s called Comfort suspension rather than the standard Heavy Duty. Among other things, this reduces the GVM from 3040kg to 2820kg.

On the road, this means the 4Motion Permanent rides a little softer than the 4Motion Selectable, despite its 19-inch wheels in place of the 18s on the Highline. Its handling is also more composed on crook roads, and more neutral when pushed hard. More telling, however, is its ability and confidence in marginal and inconsistent conditions, such as the snow-covered roads detailed above.

Volkswagen Amarok Sportline V6 in showrooms this August

The problem with the 4Motion Selectable part-time system in these conditions is that you can’t use 4X4 on the bits with good traction. So, when the road is constantly changing from slippery to grippy without notice, you have to make do with rear-wheel drive.

Thankfully, all Amarok models come with electronic stability control, so you have a ‘safety net’, but either way, full-time 4X4 is a better bet under these conditions. Traction and ride quality differences aside, all Amaroks offer a level of on-road ride and handling that the Japanese utes just can’t match.

Venturing off-road, however, sees the 4Motion Selectable Amarok quickly turn the tables on its Permanent counterpart. While the single-range Amarok still has adequate ground clearance and underbody protection, and enjoys the benefits of a rear diff lock, electronic traction control and an off-road setting for its ABS and electronic stability control, it doesn’t like tackling steep hills.

With the aforementioned issue of clutch take up, it’s too easy to stall on take off and, even if you get underway, the tall first gear soon has the engine struggling for revs on any sort of decent hill climb. In contrast, the dual-range Amarok offers class-leading off-road ability.

It has all the off-road features of the single-range model, but the unusually deep (2.72:1) low-range reduction makes all the difference and turns the Amarok from a modest off-road performer to a very capable one.

CONCLUSION

Volkswagen has no doubt produced a brilliant ute, but the two different 4X4 systems complicates the purchasing decision. If you’re after a touring 4X4 and hardcore off-roading is not a priority, then the 4Motion Permanent system is for you.

It offers more secure handling in marginal conditions and the slightly softer Comfort suspension adds a range of benefits if carrying maximum loads isn’t vital. If, however, you want genuine 4X4 ability, the only choice is the 4Motion Selectable system.

With this you get the Heavy Duty suspension as standard, but can still opt for Comfort. And, while the Amarok comes with wheel sizes ranging from 16 to 19-inch, the 16s can be retro-fitted to all models; a bonus if you wish to fit tyres better suited to serious off-roading.

All 4X4 Amaroks, regardless of drive system, have a five-star (ANCAP) safety rating; the only ute in its class to do so. The cabin is also a standout with comfort levels more akin to a passenger car than commercial vehicle.

It’s just a pity that VW didn’t go one step further and equip its Amarok with full-time dual-range 4X4 across the range, rather than the existing options. I’m sure the system from the now superseded first-generation Touareg would have done the job nicely.

And it would have saved me getting out of bed on this miserable morning to see how the two existing 4X4 systems compare.

SPARE a thought for your 4×4’s tyres, if you will. They deserve it.

At open-road speeds – say 110km/h – the standard tyre fitted to something like a new Ford Ranger or Toyota Hilux rotates at 12.5 times per second. That’s 753 face-to-face ‘meetings’ for any point in the tyre’s contact patch with the road’s surface in every minute, or more than 45,000 ‘contacts’ every hour.

Drive your 4×4 for just six hours and that’s more than 250,000 ‘wear events’ your tyre has to cope with. If that’s not bad enough, much of the time your 4×4 is not just cruising along in a straight line but is accelerating, braking or cornering, which puts longitudinal and lateral loads on the tyres, creating even more friction and wear.

The fact 4x4s are generally bigger and heavier than normal passenger cars doesn’t help either, nor does the fact 4x4s are often heavily loaded, which gives the tyres even more work to do.

On top of that, 4×4 tyres have to cope with road-surface temperatures in high summer in excess of 60°C without melting, and temperatures in winter of below zero in many parts without becoming hard and possibly brittle.

All this is, of course, before you head off-road, where 4×4 tyres then face a whole new world of torture as they battle with sharp rocks and tree roots all waiting to pierce a hole in the tread or, worse still, tear open a sidewall.

Five tips for longer-lasting tyres

Most people probably think engine components that rotate or reciprocate at high speeds, most notably pistons and big ends, are the hardest-working parts of a 4×4, but it’s a close contest between these engine components and tyres.

And while tyres may look pretty simple and basic compared to modern powertrain components, they hide an amazing array of very sophisticated and ever-evolving technologies. Given the vast array of tyres on the market, deciding on replacement tyres for your 4×4 can be a daunting task.

While most people seem to be most concerned with tread pattern, it’s just one of a number of factors to consider and one that tends to sort itself out anyway. After all, a HT (Highway Terrain) tyre isn’t much use on a 4×4 if you want to go off-road, and MT (Mud Terrain) tyres aren’t practical if you spend a lot of time on the road; given they are noisy, wear quickly and often don’t provide much grip on wet bitumen.

All of which leaves AT (All Terrain) tyres as the only practical choice for most do-it-all applications. It’s worth noting that most tyre manufacturers will rate AT tyres in terms of the balance between on- and off-road performance (generally as a percentage), so you can match this to your usage pattern.

Before you buy new tyres for your 4×4, it’s worth checking to see if you can fit smaller diameter wheels from a lower-spec model in the same range.

A smaller wheel means a taller tyre sidewall (so as to maintain the same overall rolling diameter) and a taller sidewall brings a number of significant benefits including a more comfortable ride, better damage resistance off-road, better air-down performance, and a generally cheaper purchase price.

What you lose compared to a lower profile tyre (better on-road steering response and turn-in) is not worth worrying about. It’s also worth looking for a tyre with a lower speed rating than the original tyre. While it might seem illogical, tyres with a higher speed rating are more lightly built than tyres with a lower speed rating.

That’s because a lighter tyre doesn’t build up as much heat at higher speeds as a heavier tyre, and heat is a tyre killer (see: ‘Speed and Load Ratings’ breakout). For road-going and non-lifted 4x4s you’ll need to stick reasonably close to the OEM tyre size (for legal and clearance/fouling issues), but note that tyres with different size designations can still have the same rolling diameter.

A 235/65R17, for example, has the same rolling diameter as a 255/60R17, even if the latter is nominally 20mm wider. Just remember that with any given tyre size there will invariably be slight variations in the actual tyre size from one manufacturer to another.

Last but certainly not least is the issue of the construction of the tyre’s carcass, which can either be designated as either Light Truck or Passenger. Light Truck tyres will always have an LT in the size designation, while Passenger tyres will have either a P or nothing.

All Terrain tyres are available in both these types. The difference is that Light Truck tyres have a more robust carcass and are more practical for off-road use and remote-area touring. The only downside is that Light Truck tyres generally don’t ride, steer or handle as well as Passenger tyres.

Speed and load ratings

ALL tyres come with a load-rating index and a speed-rating index. What’s important here is that the load rating has to be matched or bettered when replacing a tyre, while the speed rating can be lower than the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) tyre; although, requirements vary state by state.

Load and speed ratings are also related to each other, as the speed rating indicates the maximum speed for the tyre when carrying the load indicated by the load rating. A typical load rating for an OEM 4×4 tyre is 110, which means it can carry up to 1060kg.

A typical speed rating for an OEM 4×4 tyre is H, which is 210km/h. Speed ratings down to N (140km/h) are generally permissible when replacing the OEM tyres.