Designing the ultimate camper trailer is a pretty simple affair; something that’s been written on beer coasters and dreamt up late at night all across the country. Forgetting the fact you’d need to actually find some way to build it, there are a few key features you’d be looking for right out of the gate.
It’ll need to be lightweight for easy towing; ultra-capable, because you wouldn’t want your camper being the reason you can’t make it to camp; it should be quick to set up; and it needs huge storage options and comfortable bedding. A space out of the weather to play a game of cards in the rain would be fantastic, and if we’re throwing caution to the wind with our eternally optimistic wish list, it’d be fantastic if the camper was cool inside on hot days and warm inside on cold nights.
In the real world, things aren’t always so easy and most camper trailers are a compromise. Sometimes with budgets, other times with the manufacturer’s abilities, or lack thereof. However, Ultimate Campers isn’t your average camper-trailer manufacturer; it thinks so far outside the box there isn’t even a box at all.
After hitting the tracks and rolling out the sleeping bag for a night in its top-of-the-line, limited edition X25 camper, we definitely understand why it has developed a cult-like following among its customer base.
GETTING DIRTY
Let’s get one thing clear right from the get go: If you have a camper trailer that is brilliant when set-up but stops you from travelling off the beaten track because it’s so cumbersome, then you don’t have a camper trailer, you have a house. With that in mind, the first thing we were looking for in a camper that literally calls itself ‘Ultimate’ is off-road ability.
Heading to the hills on the NSW South Coast and the X25’s light-weight 1100kg tare was immediately obvious. Our bi-turbo Everest never once struggled lugging the camper around through stop-start traffic, or powering up long climbs in the scrub.
It packs an even more impressively low tow-ball weight of just 80kg. Rough guidelines typically state a 10 per cent tow-ball weight is ideal; but with a relatively long wheelbase and minimal rear overhang, the 7.3 per cent tow-ball weight kept trailer sway easily under control without overloading the Everest’s coil-spring rear suspension.
It uses the tried and tested DO35 V3 hitch, for a solid and secure engagement between the tow-tug and trailer without limiting articulation. The combination means the Ultimate X25 is easy to tow in rough, undulating or soft terrain and would pose most 4x4s little concern on any of the popular sand islands.
The X25’s unique high-riding body made us comfortable ducking and weaving through overgrown tracks, knowing that any wayward branches or logs hiding in the long grass weren’t going to pose the camper any danger. The lower quarter of the body and front storage box are coated in a sturdy bed liner, helping ward off any deep scratches. The short rear overhang is another welcome feature, making us more than confident negotiating tight turns in the scrub. Despite our Everest wearing a few battle scars, the Ultimate looked brand new after a hose-off.
The X25 range rides tall on a high-tensile steel A-frame chassis. The Duragal steel is hot-dip galvanised before being welded together and getting a final coat of spray-on bed liner to seal and protect it against stone chips. The suspension is the ever-dependable independent Cruisemaster XT range, with air suspension available as an optional extra – the standard offering is coil springs and Ironman shock absorbers.
It’s one of the wider campers on the market at a full 2000mm in width – that’s 140mm wider than the Everest we were towing it with. We weren’t able to see past it with our standard mirrors and needed to keep a watchful eye negotiating traffic to and from the tracks. It’s far from a deal breaker and something you should easily get used to with tow mirrors.
THE SET-UP
While the Ultimate X25’s underpinnings might be traditional, the camper’s body and set-up is far from conventional. Riding high on the chassis is a full fibreglass tub that sets up a little different to most campers. Rather than traditional wind-up style stabiliser legs, the X25 uses an L-shaped brace that pins roughly into place using the jockey wheel to raise or lower the camper to get it level. It’s an interesting take that was easy to use, helped keep weight down, and removed another point of failure. That could almost be the Ultimate motto at this point.
The three legs are positioned strategically – one on the rear left and two on the right-hand side. With the legs clicked into place, there are a few latches to pop before an electronically operated actuator steadily winds the lid up and over to the right; the two right-hand stabiliser legs being more than enough to ensure everything remains planted. A tap over the balance point by hand, then the actuator winds in until the bed lid is parallel to the ground. A wireless remote controls the process, although there are hardwired switches and a mechanical backup.
With the lid firmly popped over, there are a series of buttons around the edge pinning the canvas into place and ensuring any rain doesn’t pool into the body itself. On the inside, a couple of poles clip into place and a three-piece king-sized memory foam mattress needs to be slid up from the internal dinette on to the bed. It takes a bit of manhandling, but is easier than expected and well-worth the effort.
Finally, the external awning needs to be popped into place. It’s an ingenious 360º design with eight flexible poles that require no adjustment – just pop them in on one end and slip them into their corresponding mounts on the body. Integrated tie-down points make for an easy peg-down if high winds are expected.
All in all, with one person, you’re looking at less than 10 minutes set-up time to go from arriving at camp to going to sleep. There are a few oddities such as the folding mattress and the stabiliser legs, but they’re there to benefit the overall design and don’t add any fuss.
The only real downside we could find is that the awning offered protection for the camper from the elements, but really didn’t provide much in terms of outdoor coverage. You won’t be hiding from the rain beneath it, playing drinking games with friends.
Ultimate includes some brilliant clear-plastic window coverings for the camper, so if you’re hunkering down from the elements, you can let natural light in without letting the rain in. It’s one of those small areas where the attention to detail shows they’re designed by people who use them.
THIS IS LIVIN’
A unique aspect of the Ultimate range, and something we rarely see in any camper, is the indoor living design. In many campers, the inside is just where you sleep. Walking up the drop-down staircase into the interior and you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in a caravan.
To the left is a galley kitchen with a recessed triple-burner stove top and sink. They’re set into a carbon-fibre bench top with an additional shelf above. Ample storage space underneath with soft-close drawers and a 130L Bushmans upright fridge to the side make it a true off-grid kitchen, rather than just a space to cook your food.
Company is welcome with a U-shaped lounge wrapped in leather and sporting a swivel table. Carbon fibre is used extensively to differentiate the limited-run X25 from the budget-focused models in the line-up; though all sport a similar layout.
The kitchen serves as the electronics hub, the X25 sporting a 24V Victron power system with a monstrous 5.12kW battery. It’s all controlled via a touchscreen in the kitchen monitoring everything from water-tank levels to input charge from the 620W solar array.
The powerhouse electrical system is required to run the reverse-cycle air-conditioning system completely off-grid. If you’re after more efficient heating, there’s a Combi gas heater that’ll heat not only the kitchen water and external shower, but the tent as well. A clever extendable duct from the heater can be poked under your blankets on really cold nights.
The X25 also sports a top-of-the-line Fusion RA770 stereo linking a phones’ Bluetooth music to both the internal and external speakers. Both are controlled independently so your neighbours won’t know if you slip a little Barry White on late at night.
The main bed requires you to step up and over the lounge which isn’t always ideal; but once you’re up there, you’re treated to the best night’s sleep you’ll have on the memory foam mattress tucked in behind the privacy curtains. There are power outlets and reading lights too, as well as storage pouches.
If camping in an area you’re not comfortable with, the Ultimate’s solid door will give you peace of mind, thanks to its internal lock.
WHO SHOULD BUY ONE?
The specced-up X25 will cost you a little less than $100,000 depending on the options you’re looking for, and while that really puts it in a different market to your typical budget-orientated camper trailers, so should its features.
From the quick set-up times to the internal layout at camp, the Ultimate range is more in line with a caravan than a camper once you’re set-up. It also combines that immense and luxurious interior with low weight and high clearance, making it an unbelievably capable camper trailer in its own right.
If you were to rank any campers higher for their off-road performance, it wouldn’t be by much, and you’d be giving up a lot of the modern conveniences and comfort in the process.
If the idea of a $100,000 caravan seems alien to you, then the Ultimate probably won’t be on your shopping list. However, if you’re eyeing off caravans for big adventures but want something that will go wherever you want it to, then the Ultimate range and, specifically, the X25, is well-worth a look at. You just might have to explain to your neighbours why you now have a spaceship parked in your driveway.
AVAILABLE FROM: ultimatecampers.com.au RRP: $95,990
Ultimate Campers X25 specs
A 2021 Ford F-150 Lariat 4×4 has been brought into the country as Ford Australia considers adding the pick-up to its local line-up.
4X4 Australia can exclusively reveal images showing that the F-150 has been flown into Australia by Ford, as the company’s local arm looks to claw back market share from the likes of Ram and Chevrolet.
The popularity of full-size American pick-ups has grown in recent years, with many Australian buyers choosing to purchase Ford F-Trucks from smaller importing companies with aftermarket right-hand-drive conversions.
It appears Ford Australia is now considering offering the F-150 here – likely investigating the need to convert the utes to right-hand-drive once they land in the country.
The F-150 pictured is a Lariat – a mid-range variant with leather and dual-zone climate control – optioned with the chrome appearance package, 20-inch ‘chrome-like’ PVD wheels, and four-wheel drive.
Buyers in the US can choose from a 2.7-litre turbo-petrol V6, a 3.5-litre turbo-petrol V6 with or without hybrid assistance, or a 5.0-litre petrol V8, with both rear-wheel or four-wheel drive available. All engines are coupled with a 10-speed automatic transmission.
It’s understood the 3.0-litre turbo-diesel V6 option was dropped from the line-up in July – likely to help differentiate the F-150 from the upcoming 2022 Ford Ranger, which is rumoured to be using the engine.
The side-exit exhaust pipe behind the right rear wheel suggests the model brought to Australia is indeed the V8 – however, given Australian buyers’ love of diesel engines, the 3.0-litre turbo-diesel Power Stroke V6 cannot be entirely discounted.
If the Ford F-150 was offered locally, as well as the obvious competitors from Ram and Chevrolet, it’s expected the vehicle would be positioned as an alternative to the recently-released 2022 Toyota LandCruiser 300 Series.
A spokesperson for Ford told 4X4 Australia the company does not have any news to share about plans to bring the F-150 to our shores.
It’s been three years since we first laid eyes on the Ford Ranger Raptor and two years since it scored our 4×4 of the Year accolade, and not much has changed with the model during that time.
There have been a few small tweaks to equipment levels in line with the model year changes across the Ranger line-up, but for the main part the Raptor continues unchanged.
For the end of MY2021 – and as the current PX2 Ranger nears the end of its model life – Ford has given the flagship Ranger a spruce-up and dubbed it the Raptor X.
While the Raptor X is predominately a new sticker pack with a few other styling tweaks, we thought it was a fine time to get back behind the wheel of one of our favourite double-cab utes.
POWERTRAIN & PERFORMANCE
The Ranger Raptor X remains driven exclusively by the four-cylinder bi-turbo diesel engine backed by Ford’s 10-speed automatic transmission and part-time four-wheel drive.
All too often described as underpowered for a performance flagship, the 2.0-litre diesel engine puts out an unchanged 500Nm and 157kW, which remains class-leading for any four-cylinder 4×4 ute.
While those numbers might be class-leading and adequate in day-to-day use, we agree with the pundits that it doesn’t live up to the Ford Performance moniker and leaves the Raptor as one of those vehicles where the chassis is capable of so much more than the powertrain can deliver.
It’s a car where we find our right foot planted on the firewall more often than any other, where the space and terrain allow you to make the most of the exceptional chassis.
“The Raptor X is the best off-the-showroom-floor touring ute you can currently buy”
As for the transmission, it is relatively fuss-free and smooth; although, we do feel it gets a bit lost for gears under light throttle when driving in the suburbs. Alternatively, it does a great job banging through its plentiful ratios when you have the foot to the floor and the Multi Terrain Selector (MTS) in Baja mode.
The performance deficit and transmission foibles are just a couple of items that we, along with many other Ranger fans, hope will be addressed with the all-new 2022 Ranger Raptor.
Something the Raptor gets over other Ranger models is a version of the MTS. This adjusts the vehicle’s electronic systems such as the stability and traction control calibration, throttle, ABS and transmission inputs, to best suit the way the car is being driven.
As well as the regular Rock, Sand and Snow modes, the Raptor gets Baja mode, which winds everything up to 11 to let the driver have the most control and fun.
ON-ROAD RIDE & HANDLING
While the Raptor’s bespoke suspension has been optimised for off-road use, it does have huge benefits on-road.
The Watts link-equipped coil-spring rear suspension is adapted from the Everest wagon and, together with the Fox coil-over shocks, delivers superior ride quality, body control and handling compared to working-class ute designs with leaf springs.
All-terrain tyres and an increased ride height over a standard Ranger don’t help with on-road dynamics, but this is a car set up for all-road use. The tyres are relatively quiet on-road compared to other ATs.
OFF-ROAD
Ford Performance used its knowledge from developing the F150 Raptor in the USA when it worked with Fox Suspension and BFGoodrich, to develop the set-up for the Ranger.
The wider wheel track, aforementioned rear coil set-up and Fox coil-overs and BFG tyres deliver a package that eats up rough roads and tracks at high speeds.
While most of us don’t get to drive at high speeds on public roads, that superior control afforded by the well-designed package and its quality components works equally as well when driving on any rough road, at any speed. This works when touring, as the driver has less body movement and bump steer to contend with, to give him or her better control resulting in a more relaxed drive, especially over long periods. Perfectly suited for Australia’s outback roads.
The package also works well for low-speed off-roading, with better rear axle travel than a leaf-sprung Ranger.
Ford’s excellent electronic traction control is still there when you have the rear diff lock engaged, with the added ride height and sturdy side steps there to help you over obstacles.
This is the best factory suspension package you can get under any readily available production 4×4 in Australia, bar none, and it would cost you tens-of-thousands of dollars to successfully emulate it using aftermarket equipment. We are truly thankful Ford offers it off the showroom floor.
CABIN & ACCOMMODATION
The interior of the Raptor has always had a premium feel to it, and in Raptor X guise it has seen some changes.
The loss of the CD player in the audio system was an across-the-range change, but the Raptor X has also lost its 240V power outlet from the back of the console, vanity lights behind the sun visors, light in the cargo tub, and the ‘RAPTOR’ embroidery that was on the floor mats. A bit of a rough deal when you consider the price has gone up more than $3000 and the only extras are the stripes.
The well-bolstered and supportive seats and thick soft-feel steering wheel remain, while the Ford Performance Blue stitching that was previously on the dash and seats has now changed to red; maybe red makes them faster! There’s also a new black finish on some of the dash and vent plastics.
The Ranger’s interior has always been a big and comfortable place to ride, and it has aged well.
PRACTICALITIES
For all the great attributes of the Raptor’s off-road-bred suspension, it does sacrifice a few things on what makes a ute so practical. Specifically, the Raptor X can’t haul as much as a regular leaf-sprung Ranger.
The towing capacity drops from 3500kg to 2500kg, and the payload is rated at 758kg where most 4×4 Rangers are rated to carry closer to 1000kg and more.
The Raptor’s big 285/70R17 BFG all-terrains are a great addition to any car and we’re stoked you can have them fitted from factory. These and the extra height of the suspension give the Raptor X ground clearance of 283mm and a wading depth of 850mm – both up from the regular 2.0-litre Ranger. The burly towing hooks in the front bumper have changed from black to red.
SUMMARY
The two things most owners are likely to replace when they are building a new ute to be a capable and comfortable touring vehicle, are the tyres and the suspension. With the Raptor X, Ford has already done this for you and it hasn’t scrimped on cheap parts, as the kit beneath the Raptor is top notch. Plus it’s all legal and covered by the factory Ford warranty.
With this in mind, the Raptor X is the best off-the-showroom-floor touring ute you can currently buy. It’s no wonder it scored so well at the 2019 4×4 of the Year.
Sure, it doesn’t tow or carry as much as other utes, but that’s not what the Raptor X is made for. It will eat up outback kilometres better than anything else that’s standard, and it’s smoother, more comfortable, more controlled and safer than any other standard ute.
In fact, the Raptor X could probably take the 4X4OTY win again if it were held today.
FORD RANGER RAPTOR X SPECS
Any suggestion Toyota’s new 3.3-litre V6 diesel in the 300 Series LandCruiser is 100 per cent new from the ground up is wrong. Yep, that’s right; it’s not an entirely new design.
This new V6 can be seen as the old V8 with two cylinders lopped off one end of the cast-iron block, and then topped with all-new (but still DOHC four-valve) cylinder heads, and more sophisticated fuel-delivery and turbo systems.
Now that may be a simplification, but the fact remains the 4.5-litre V8 and the 3.3-litre V6 both have 86mm cylinder-bore and 96mm piston-stroke dimensions, both have a cast-iron block, and both have their cylinder banks set 90-degrees apart.
The retention of the exact bore and stroke dimensions is somewhat unexpected given the bore-stroke ratio of passenger-car and light-commercial-vehicle diesel engines has been constantly evolving in the last 20 years as diesel technology has moved into new and uncharted territories.
The V6’s 90-degree vee angle is also unusual given V6s are almost all 60-degree designs, and for good reason. But more on that later.
All this is not to say that the new 3.3-litre V6 isn’t a great leap forward given it makes more power (227kW vs 200kW) and more torque (700Nm vs 650Nm) than the 4.5-litre V8, despite losing two cylinders and 25 per cent of its working capacity. It also gets by with a lower and less mechanically efficient compression ratio of 15.4:1 compared to the V8’s 16.8:1, which makes its increase in power and torque for each unit of engine capacity even more impressive.
The ‘little’ V6 has it over the ‘big’ V8 in both maximum power and maximum torque thanks largely to its sophisticated sequential-parallel twin-turbo system, which has more pumping volume than the V8’s relatively simple parallel twin-turbo system. In essence, the V6’s turbos work together and build on each other in terms of pumping volume, whereas the V8’s turbos work independently of each other and are more limited in what they can do as a result.
A new high-pressure (up to 40,000psi) common-rail fuel injection system, as well as the largely in-piston new-design combustion chambers, also play key roles in the jump in specific power (from 44.8 to 67.8kW/litre) and specific torque (146 to 209Nm/litre).
Unlike the V8 whose two turbos are mounted outside the cylinder banks, the V6’s turbos are mounted between the cylinder banks as the cylinder heads are turned around so their exhaust ports face in to the vee. This is what’s called a ‘hot V’ arrangement and it explains why the V6 retains the 90-degree vee angle.
Having the two cylinder banks angled farther apart (at a 50 per cent wider angle in fact) means more space for the two turbos that sit side-by-side, and more space in and around the turbos. So the ‘hot V’ can be a little less hot, which is what you want for long-term reliability.
There’s been some criticism of the ‘hot V’ concept as being unsuitable for Australia’s hot climate, but given the main market for the 300 is in the Middle East, one can only assume that Toyota would have had a long, hard think about hot-climate suitability. The 300 was also a very long time coming, with advanced prototypes being tested and in Australia as long along ago as 2015, so it has a good deal of development behind it.
The 90-degree vee angle does have a downside in as much as a V6’s inherent vibration is kept to a minimum when the cylinder banks are set at 60 degrees, and by widening up the angle to 90 degrees means the inherent vibration becomes more forceful. To counter this, a somewhat complex two-piece counter-rotating balance shaft driven off the crankshaft is employed.
All of which raises the question: Why didn’t Toyota make a straight six? Unlike a V6, a straight six is perfectly balanced (no need for a balance shaft) and it offers simplicity of turbocharging given the convenient placement (all in one line) of the exhaust ports. A straight six is also cheaper and simpler to make given it has less parts, all of which explains why manufacturers such as Mercedes-Benz (with its latest G-Wagen) and Land Rover/Range Rover have gone the straight-six way.
Dirt roads are part and parcel of four-wheel driving. After all, more than 60 per cent of all gazetted roads in Australia are still unsealed. That means there are hundreds of thousands of kilometres of unsealed roads and tracks on which you can drive, ranging from well-formed gravel roads through to rough bush tracks and everything in-between.
Driving on dirt roads is very different to driving on sealed roads and, when doing so, you need to take in to account all sorts of variables including differing levels of grip, obstacles, uneven surfaces, dust and, when it starts to rain, mud.
Not only is it important to adapt your driving style to suit the different conditions you’re likely to encounter when driving on dirt, but also to tailor your vehicle to suit the conditions. Oh, and you’ll also need some special equipment.
GETTING READY
If you’re going to be regularly driving on dirt or you have a big outback trip planned, you’ll want to flick those standard Passenger (P) construction tyres fitted to your vehicle in favour of some Light Truck (LT) tyres. Dirt roads can be hell on tyres, with sharp stones being flicked up from the front tyres and fired into the tread faces of the rear tyres like a shotgun blast; while surface irregularities such as corrugations, cattle grids and sharp-edged causeways are all potential problems for tyre sidewalls.
The tougher construction of LT tyres means they have more rubber across the tread face and more plies in the sidewalls, so are better able to cope with the harsh conditions presented by dirt-road driving. No matter whether you opt for an all-terrain or a mud-terrain tread pattern, make sure there’s an ‘LT’ marked on your tyres. Another advantage of LT tyres is that, thanks to their tougher construction, you can reduce air pressures for dirt-road driving more so than with P tyres. More on that later …
The next thing you’ll want to ensure when driving on dirt is that your vehicle’s suspension is in good condition. Sagging springs and worn shock absorbers will not cope with big bumps, potholes and corrugations, and will adversely affect your vehicle’s handling, and therefore your ability to keep it on the straight and narrow when driving on dirt. A well-sorted suspension system with springs that match the load and good quality shock absorbers, will soak up bumps and handle big hits without throwing the vehicle off line – and the bonus is ride quality will be better which in turn minimises driver fatigue.
Dust ingress is another important consideration when driving on dirt. Keeping dust out of a 4×4’s cabin is usually pretty easy; run the air vents on ‘fresh’ when there’s no dust in front of you and flick over to ‘recirculate’ when you spot dust up ahead from preceding or oncoming vehicles. Running on ‘fresh’ will pressurise the cabin and stop dust from being sucked in through vents at the rear of the vehicle, while running on ‘recirculate’ when driving in a dust cloud will minimise dust ingress through the front vents.
For those who drive a ute, keeping the dust out of the tub is a more involved process. Even if you have a hard lid or canopy fitted, dust can still get in through the various holes in the tub and through the gaps around the tailgate. Plugging these holes and fitting a tailgate dust-sealing kit will help, as will fitting a roof vent for those with canopies. A vent will pressurise the canopy to keep dust out.
You also need to keep dust away from your engine’s air intake. Fitting a snorkel can minimise the dust entering the air intake; the theory is that a driver will allow the dust to settle below their line of sight so they can see where they are going, and that a snorkel draws clean air well above this point. Of course, in extremely dusty conditions, air can still be drawn down a snorkel, but the engine will still be breathing cleaner air than if no snorkel is fitted. In extreme conditions, a snorkel sock can be fitted over the snorkel head to further minimise dust ingress.
Don’t be afraid to regularly check the condition of your air filter; a dirty filter will not only reduce engine performance, it will also result in increased fuel consumption, so give it a blast with compressed air to blow some dust out, or replace it with a spare filter if it’s unserviceable.
Finally, make sure your wiper blades are in good nick and your windscreen washer bottle is full; after all, you need to see where you’re going.
HITTING THE DIRT
One of the first things to do when you hit the dirt is to lower tyre pressures. There is no one-specific dirt-road pressure to suit all vehicles and all roads, but as a general guide, if you normally run 35psi on your moderately loaded 4×4 on sealed roads, for example, you’ll want to drop this down to as low as 26psi or so for dirt-road driving, especially on rough and/or corrugated roads.
Lowering tyre pressures for dirt-road driving offers several benefits. Firstly, it allows the tyres to conform more easily to uneven surfaces, so they are less likely to be damaged (chipping or even puncturing) by protrusions such as sharp-edged rocks. Secondly, it lengthens each tyre’s footprint, which provides more grip when driving on slippery surfaces, resulting in better steering control when cornering and better stability when accelerating and braking. Thirdly, it makes the sidewalls more compliant which improves vehicle ride quality, and this is beneficial to both you and your vehicle.
How do you know what the ‘correct’ tyre pressure is? Trial and error. You’ll be able to feel when you get it right, both through the way the vehicle responds to steering, accelerator and brake inputs, and through overall ride quality.
One important thing to bear in mind when driving on lowered tyre pressures is that the tyres will generate more heat, so don’t go belting along at high speeds on low pressures. Also take care when cornering so that you don’t ‘peel’ a tyre off a rim or cause sidewall damage.
The next adjustment to make for dirt-road driving is to your vehicle’s 4×4 system. If you drive a vehicle with a part-time four-wheel drive system (such as employed on many 4×4 utes), engage ‘4H’ (high-range 4×4) when you hit the dirt. This will give you more grip, resulting in more control when accelerating, cornering and even braking. If your vehicle is equipped with a full-time four-wheel drive system, engaging the centre diff lock will also provide the aforementioned benefits through improved grip levels.
Many modern 4×4 wagons (and a few utes) feature driver-selectable modes that tailor the vehicle’s engine, transmission and chassis controls to suit different conditions. If your vehicle is so equipped, for dirt-road driving select the dirt mode, often labelled ‘gravel’. If you’re unsure, have a look in your owner’s manual.
LOOK AND PLAN AHEAD
The key to driving on dirt roads is to look (and plan) well ahead. With reduced grip levels, braking distances will be longer and your vehicle won’t corner as well as it does on sealed roads. Keep an eye out for holes, rocks, washouts, deep wheel tracks, fallen branches and, of course, wildlife. If you see a potential hazard up ahead, adjust your speed accordingly so you’re prepared for it, either by avoiding it altogether or, in the case of unavoidable obstacles, driving over them at a reduced speed so as not to damage your vehicle.
By planning ahead you’ll be able to avoid having to make just-in-the-nick-of-time sudden manoeuvres that can result in a slide … or worse. Many drivers have veered off dirt roads trying to avoid impacts with road-surface irregularities and wildlife.
Gradually decrease vehicle speed when approaching corners rather than stomping on the brake pedal at the last second; the latter of these two approaches can upset vehicle balance when you most need it.
Modern vehicles equipped with electronic stability-control systems are much easier to drive on loose surfaces such as dirt than vehicles with no such systems. Even these have their limitations and, if you exceed them, you could still end up in a ditch if you don’t plan ahead.
If you’re driving on outback dirt roads, chances are you’ll eventually be confronted with bulldust. Bulldust is essentially made up of dust particles with a consistency akin to talcum powder, and bulldust sections can be long and deep. You can usually spot bulldust sections as you approach them by looking for subtle colour variations in the road surface.
If you can safely avoid bulldust, it’s best to do so, but if not, slow down a bit on approach, keep the vehicle pointing where you want it to go and accelerate out the other side. But don’t fight the steering wheel in the middle of bulldust patches, and try to avoid sudden changes of direction and braking.
Cattle grids and causeways can also catch out unwary drivers; while you may have driven over several relatively smooth examples without problem, the next one could have a harsh edge on it that could damage a tyre or suspension component if you hit it too fast. Always err on the side of caution.
VISIBILITY
One of the biggest problems when driving in dusty conditions is reduced visibility, and this usually occurs when following other vehicles or when passing oncoming vehicles.
If you end up in the dust cloud of a vehicle ahead of you and you’re unable to see clearly, your best bet is to slow down enough so that you are back in clear air. If that vehicle is a large truck and it’s not travelling very fast but is generating a lot of dust, perhaps it’d be a good time to pull up for a cuppa rather than trying to blindly navigate through the dust cloud to overtake. If you can’t see where you’re going, you could end up leaving the road or hitting another vehicle.
When you’re confronted with an oncoming vehicle, reduce speed to prepare for limited visibility when driving through that vehicle’s dust cloud. Also try to move as far to the left as is safe to do so, to minimise the risk of windscreen damage to both your vehicle and the oncoming vehicle. In other words, drive courteously … and hopefully that attitude will be exhibited by other drivers to you.
DRIVING ON CORRUGATIONS
Some heavily corrugated dirt roads can be terrible to drive on, but there are ways to minimise the impact of corrugations on you and your vehicle.
First up, finding the right tyre pressures for corrugations is critical. The advantages of lowering pressures (longer tyre footprint for more grip and softer sidewall for more compliance) will make long stretches of corrugated dirt roads much more bearable.
The second major factor in how your 4×4 will behave on corrugations is vehicle speed. Corrugations vary in amplitude and frequency; the amplitude is the height of each corrugation and the frequency is the distance between each corrugation, and ideally you want your vehicle’s suspension to oscillate (move up and down) in tune with the corrugations.
Eh? Put simply, there will be a certain vehicle speed that will be the sweet spot, where your tyres will skip over the top of the corrugations, from one peak to another. This speed might be 80km/h, it might be 90km/h or even 100km/h, and you will know when you’ve hit the sweet spot because you will feel ride quality improve markedly when you get there.
But don’t go too fast in the hunt for the sweet spot, at least not to the point where you might damage your vehicle or lose control …
MUD
We talked about mud driving in greater detail in an earlier instalment of ‘4X4 Australia’s How To: Off-Road Driving Series’, but for now we still need to mention the obvious: add water to dirt and it turns in to mud.
When dirt roads are wet, they can become even more slippery than when they are dry, so you will need to adjust your speed to suit the conditions. On outback roads in particular, rain can present some big challenges.
Many outback roads cannot be traversed in wet weather, and if conditions are sketchy you will need to check with local authorities to see if roads are open or closed. If a road is signposted as closed, or you have been informed by authorities that it is closed, you must not attempt to drive on it. Not only could you become hopelessly stuck, but you could also cause damage to said road … and cop a hefty fine in the process.
If you do happen to be driving on an open outback road and it starts to rain, conditions can deteriorate rapidly, with bulldust patches quickly transforming in to vehicle-sucking quagmires.
If you can’t avoid long, sticky stretches of mud, you’ll need to keep your momentum up; don’t drive so fast that you could lose vehicle control, but don’t back off the throttle in boggy mud either.
BACK ON THE BLACKTOP
Assuming you have tailored your vehicle to suit dirt-road driving, you’ll need to make a few adjustments once you get back on to sealed roads. Firstly, don’t forget to put part-time 4×4 vehicles back in to two-wheel drive, and disconnect the centre diff lock on full-time 4×4 vehicles. For vehicles with different drive modes, select ‘normal’ or ‘road’ mode.
You’ll also need to reinflate tyres to normal road pressures. If there are only a few kilometres of blacktop before you’ll be back on dirt again, you can leave tyres deflated, but don’t forget to keep your speed in check.
While you’re pulled up and reinflating the tyres, take the time to have a good look over your vehicle. Inspect the tyres for any damage such as nicks or cuts, check the windscreen and lights for chips or cracks, and make sure the licence plates are clean and legible.
DO
1. Adjust tyre pressures to suit dirt roads 2. Select 4X4/lock centre diff 3. Be smooth when cornering, accelerating and braking 4. Look and plan well ahead 5. Slow down for oncoming vehicles
DO NOT
1. Drive too fast for conditions 2. Perform abrupt cornering/braking moves 3. Drive in other’s dust clouds 4. Drive on closed roads 5. Forget to reset/reinflate for sealed roads
Use your favourite spice rub to create this simple and tasty barbecue chicken that can be cooked straight on the grill.
INGREDIENTS
• 1 family-size chicken
FOR THE RUB
• ¼ cup brown sugar • 2 tbs Paprika • 1 tbs black pepper • 1½ tsp chilli powder • 1½ tsp onion powder • 1½ tsp garlic powder
COOKWARE NEEDED
• Campfire camp grill
METHOD
1. Combine all rub ingredients in a bowl. 2. Place chicken into an airtight container or bag. Add the rub mixture and shake well. 3. Cook on camp grill away from flame to prevent rub from melting off and chicken skin burning. 4. Serve with veg of choice. *We recommend tin-foil potatoes, corn and pumpkin potato bale.
The battle to save weight on our 4×4 adventures is a never-ending one. For years I resisted the allure of a rooftop tent for several reasons: weight, ease of use, cost, or a combination of those.
The first generation of soft-tops were heavy, bulky and cumbersome to set up and pack down. The hard-shell generation solved the set-up issues, but still largely remained heavy and came with a hefty price tag to boot. Now we are starting to see another generation emerge and that’s a very exciting development for the adventurer.
The Wild Land unit is one of the first to solve all the above issues; it is lightweight, relatively inexpensive, simple to use and compact. I have had a 1.4 version mounted on my roof for five months now and it has seen about 15 nights of rain, three nights of snow and 10 nights of very high winds.
I’m happy to report it has been a completely leak-free affair, not a single drop has entered my sleep space and it has been rigid, even during extreme gusts.
The only time I’ve had moisture inside was after a wet pack-down where I left the front opening unzipped a little to allow the air to escape as I closed the shell, allowing water to soak in.
It has also seen some balmy nights, but there is plenty of ventilation available once you unzip the sides.
“It has been a completely leak-free affair, not a single drop has entered my sleep space”
As for road noise, it has been pretty good; it’s actually quieter than my old roof rack, but you may experience different results depending on your vehicle airflow.
The only negative I have found is rising cold; I could feel my body warmth disappear underneath me. I easily resolved this by adding a base layer of insulated builder’s sarking, about 3mm thick. It worked perfectly, added barely any weight and took up no room as it lives there now underneath the mattress. In fairness though, this is an issue with any sleep system; it is critical to insulate yourself from the ground.
I opted for the upgrade mattress and have found it comfortable. I also added the large awning which clips over the tent opening and adds valuable cover below, plus the step ladder upgrade kit that makes climbing a lot more comfortable. Finally, I added the rooftop bars to mount my solar panel. The weight of the panel has made the gas struts a little slower, but it still opens easily.
There are two models available: 1.2 and the 1.4. The 1.2 is suited to smaller vehicles, while the 1.4 is better suited for larger 4x4s and those that want a little extra room. Each will fit two adults.
The 1.2 refers to 1.2m width (internally), the external width is 1.3m, similarly the 1.4 is 1.4m internally (1.5m external width). Both versions are 160mm high and 2.2m long. Each unit comes with an inbuilt LED light strip overhead and two all-weather shoe storage bags.
As for weight, the 1.2 comes in at 57kg while the 1.4 is 64kg; pretty handy for roof load limits.
A Drifta Stockton free-standing 270-degree awning is also available to fit directly to the tent (hinge side), which is a very handy option.
AVAILABLE FROM: www.driftastockton.com.au RRP: $2990 (1.2); $3190 (1.4)
A tidy selection of reader-submitted 4x4s this month. To get involved, head to our Facebook page and post a photo of your rig – you could win a Wurth under-bonnet LED valued at $249.
2007 TOYOTA N70 HILUX SR (Winner)
Here are some pics of my little Hilux on our most recent trip to Climies in Tasmania. Equipment includes 4:11 Prado diffs (keeping a rear LSD), SPC UCAs, 295 Nitto Trail Grapplers, custom sliders, Runva winch, Muzzbar, and the back seat has been deleted for a fridge. It’s fairly basic but I have a bit more in the works for it, including a 47 Fabrication rear bar and inversion bar for a new rear suspension set-up, an NPC clutch, and a tune. All of the above work (and heaps more) has been done by myself – it has only been in a workshop to check injector valves -Jasmine McLeod
2021 LAND ROVER DEFENDER
I thought you might be interested in a photo of what I think is the first new Defender to cross the Simpson Desert (I wait to be proven wrong!). We crossed as part of a Great Divide Tour in the second half of May, 2021. The Defender was the only non-Toyota in a group of eight vehicles. It is as a stock D200. I added the Frontrunner roof rack, Land Rover snorkel and rear recovery points before departure. Tyres were also stock Goodyear All Terrain 70R18s. Pleased to report no issues and it never came close to getting stuck. From Mt Dare to Birdsville we used just under the equivalent of a full tank (85 litres) -Peter Vickery
SUZUKI VITARA
My Vitara was built to do trips with my mates who all have Vitaras as well. This photo was in Tassie last year. I custom-made the front bar with a winch; the rear drawers have an ARB fridge; and it had a lift from Lowrange in the US, among a few other small tweaks. Painted in Raptor liner (spitfire green from an R8) -Rick Sammons
1988 MITSUBISHI PAJERO SWB
It has a Frontrunner roof rack and Ironman springs and shocks, but otherwise it’s pretty much stock standard. This photo was taken on Googs Track over Easter. –Robert Casey
TOYOTA 75 SERIES LANDCRUISER
My coily 75 bus with a bit of fruit. It’s engineered in Victoria and has a 12H-T four-litre mated to a H150 V8 cruiser gearbox; GU Patrol front end and steer box; 80 Series rear-end (4 linked); and a 24V system for a twin-motor high-mount winch. It’s twin-locked. -Lachlan Storey
TOYOTA LANDCRUISER
NA HZ with twin-locked 35s (only extended shackles on stock leafs); dedicated 24V set-up to run the high mount; bar work front to back; a rear tyre that swings out instead of dropping down like a traditional tailgate; and of course, a fridge, freezer and travel buddy -Lach Quinn
There’s nothing more warming after a long hard day out on the tracks than a hot stew cooked up in the camp oven or potjie.This classic recipe for beef stew with dumplings will warm you through, especially when it’s been simmering over the campfire throughout the afternoon.
INGREDIENTS
BEEF STEW • 1kg cubed beef • 1/4 butternut pumpkin • 1 turnip • 1 parsnip • 2 medium potatoes, diced • 2 zucchinis • 3 sprigs rosemary • 1 cup dry red wine • 2 cups beef stock • 2 celery stalks, diced • 2 carrots, diced • 2 tbsp plain flour • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 medium brown onion, chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 2 tsp parsley
DUMPLINGS • 2 cups plain flour • 1 cup milk • 60g grated cheese of choice (we used parmesan) • ½ cup butter, melted • 1 tbsp baking powder • 1 tbsp sugar
COOKWARE REQUIRED • Camp oven or potjie pot
METHOD
1. Preheat camp oven or potjie pot. 2. In a medium bowl, coat beef in flour, shaking off any excessive crumbs. 3. Oil your pot or oven and cook the beef until browned all over. Remove from heat and set aside. 4. Using the same pot or oven, sauté onion, zucchini, turnip, parsnip, carrot and celery for 2 minutes, then add garlic and cook until fragrant. 5. Pour in wine and bring to the boil, stirring until reduced by roughly half. 6. Add stock, pumpkin, potatoes, rosemary, parsley and beef to the pot. Cover and cook low and slow for 2 hours. 7. While the stew is simmering make the dumplings by combining all ingredients in a bowl. Mix well and set aside. 8. Roll dumplings into balls and place on top of the stew in the last 10 to 15mins of cooking time (lid on). 9. Serve as is or with a side of damper!
If we look back at the history of the automobile as an epoch of time, one must admit that its brief 135-year story represents a mere sliver of our planet’s chronical. Yet when Carl Benz was issued a patent for a ‘vehicle powered by a gas engine’, he certainly could not have fathomed the impact it would have on the human race.
In 1903, Dutch brothers Hendrik and Jacobus Spijker took the concept further by incorporating a four-wheel drive system into their Spyker 60 roadster. Spin the clock forward through the next few decades and there were numerous brands that landed with a big splash, only to sink into oblivion. Those that survived were able to adapt to changing economies, overcome challenges, and reinvent themselves when needed.
This year marks the 80th anniversary of one such brand, whose four-wheel drive offerings have circumnavigated the globe, set Guinness World Records, fought in wars, and even been credited with helping to save the planet from tyranny. This month we are honouring Jeep, the seven-slot brand, by delving into its first eight decades and looking forward as it prepares for the hurdles of the future.
DEEP ROOTS
To understand the deep determination of a brand like Jeep, we need to go back more than a century and join two young entrepreneurs. In 1903, Claud Cox, an engineer with the Standard Wheel Company who had designed their Overland motorcar, launched his own business when his employer pulled the plug on its automobile endeavors.
Struggling for several years, Cox was ultimately destined for bankruptcy. But in an event that would change the future of the world, a visionary bicycle salesman from New York named John North Willys intervened. After witnessing his first horseless carriage and the excitement it generated, Willys knew that the motorcar would eventually render the bicycle obsolete.
Willys struck a deal with Cox – paying $10,000 USD for 51 per cent of the company – and then worked his charismatic magic with creditors, employees and suppliers to keep them in the game. By 1908, the new Willys-Overland company had sold more than 500 automobiles and turned a handsome profit. In short order it had outgrown its building and needed a new home, landing in Toledo, Ohio. It was a decision that would not only change the future of the company but prompted Cox to resign.
By 1916, the brand’s reputation for quality positioned the Overland Model 38 as the second best-selling car in the country. Fast forward through the booming 1920s, tumultuous 1930s, and the passing of John Willys in 1933, and America was gearing up for its inevitable entry into World War II.
THE SEVEN-SLOT GRILLE
With technology running at a breakneck pace, the US Government knew the upcoming war would be like no other. Horse-drawn howitzers were a thing of the past and their ragtag fleet of modified Model Ts would be no match for Germany’s Wehrmacht.
They issued a request to all US auto manufacturers to produce a light reconnaissance vehicle that had four-wheel drive, a fold-down windshield, weighed less than 1300lb, and could carry a crew of three. And the kicker … they wanted fully functioning prototypes in just 50 days. Bantam Motors and Willys-Overland responded, followed by Ford under the urging of the government.
The fruits of their frantic efforts rendered the Bantam BRC, Ford Pygmy, and Willys Quad. Prototypes were evaluated in several rounds of tyre-to-tyre field testing, followed by an order for 1500 more units. When the dust settled, it was the Willys Quad and its powerful GoDevil engine – named so because it would ‘Go like the Devil’ – that received Uncle Sam’s nod of approval. During the war years, Willys produced 363,000 MA and MB models, while Ford, under US license using Willys specifications, manufactured more than 280,000 of their GPWs.
There have been many campfire debates on where the Jeep moniker came from. Some claim it was slang for General-Purpose vehicle (GP), while others argue it sprung from a gravity-defying character in the 1930s Popeye cartoon, Eugene the Jeep. Whatever the origin, by the end of WWII the world had embraced this nickname and Jeep quickly became part of the international lexicon.
PEACE TIME AND CIVILIAN JEEPS
As peace settled over the planet, the venerable Jeep, which had been deployed on six continents, had become known as the vehicle that helped win the war. Surplus units were sold at auction to farmers, outdoorsmen and adventurers, and Uncle Sam authorised Willys to produce the MB for the consumer markets. It would be deemed the CJ-2A (civilian Jeep) and its agile suspension, open-air design and proven durability, made an easy transition from the front lines to field and stream. Looking back, the CJ-2A and its seven-slot grille would provide inspiration for dozens of Jeep models for the next 70 years.
Extending its reach in 1947, licensing was also granted to several international automakers, some of which continue to produce vintage-style Willys to this day. Its simple, utilitarian design and dependability also prompted several manufacturers to produce nearly identical knock-offs. But as they say, imitation is the finest form of flattery.
Spinning the clock forward to the late ’40s and 1950s when the brand was eventually purchased by Kaiser Automobiles, Jeep continued on its self-directed path. Focusing on the needs of the rugged individualist, it would develop vehicles for family camping, hard-working farm and fire trucks, and sporty beach cruisers.
THE SEVEN SLOT LINEUP
Although a detailed presentation of every Jeep model could consume several books, a celebration of Jeep’s 80th anniversary would not be complete without highlighting the vehicles that made it what it is today. Here we go, 1945 and the end of WWII to the turn of the 21st century.
1945 JEEP CJ-2A
After the end of WWII, the success of the MB prompted Willys to focus on Jeeps and drop its car line. The CJ-2A was born (aka Universal), featuring larger headlights, softer springs, a relocated spare tire, and multiple color options. By its phase-out in 1949 in lieu of the CJ-3A and 3B, more than 200,000 2As rolled out of the Toledo, Ohio, manufacturing plant.
1946 WILLYS WAGON
One can argue that the Willys Wagon, designed by the legendary Brook Stevens, was the first sports utility vehicle. It had two rows of seating, room for four, and cargo in the back. During the next 18 years (it was also manufactured in Argentina and Brazil through 1977) it underwent various design changes, engines and drivetrain systems, including 4WD in 1949. The Willys wagon became an American icon of backcountry family adventures.
1947 WILLYS PICKUP
With pickups becoming ever popular, Willys introduced the Jeep Truck, which would enjoy an 18-year tenure before being retired in 1965.
1948 JEEPSTER
Another Brook Stevens design, the Jeepster was a bit more luxurious, sportier, and car-like than its brethren, and targeted the beach cruiser and country club crowd. While its bones were borrowed from the Willys Wagon, it featured soft touches such as whitewall tires, sun visors, wind wings, and a convertible top.
1955 CJ-5
After Kaiser purchased Willys-Overland in 1953, they rebranded the Korean War era M38-A1 for the civilian market. The beloved CJ-5 became the longest running Jeep to date, spanning 29 years, numerous wars, 4-bangers, 6-bangers and V8s, and chassis upgrades. By the end of production, more than 600,000 units had been delivered worldwide.
1963 GLADIATOR PICKUP
One of the most coveted Jeeps (if you can find one), the full-size J Series pickups became the workhorses of the farm, road and trail. Their aggressive forward-raked front clip may not have been aerodynamic, but it was pretty dang cool. It was also beefed up to a 1.25-ton (1.13-tonne) rating for military use and designated the M715.
1963 WAGONEER
If the Willys Wagon was the first SUV, the Wagoneer took things to the next level in luxury. Sparing with the CJ-5, it too was produced for 29 years and had little competition. Based on the J series pickup chassis, it was available in two or four doors, accent lighting, woodgrain panels, an automatic transmission, and engines ranging from the Tornado 3.8-litre six-cylinder to a fire-breathing 401 cubic-inch V8. It would also be the inspiration for its smaller sibling the Cherokee XJ (1983-2001) and modern Grand Cherokee.
1976 CJ-7
As highway speeds increased and vehicles became bigger, the world wanted a more stable and larger Jeep. AMC followed suit by stretching the CJ-5 10 inches and rebranding it as the CJ-7. There were subtle changes to the chassis and powertrains, but it proudly carried the seven-slot flag until its retirement in 1986 as the last of the CJ line.
1986 WRANGLER
The Wrangler took over where the CJ left off, and has been with us in various forms for 35 years. Though variants have included the YJ, TJ, JK and the new JL, the most significant upgrade for the off-road minded was the introduction of the coil-sprung TJ in 1996, the Rubicon in 2003, and four-door in 2007.
ODDBALLS AND GOING POSTAL
As with any brand, Jeep has come out with a few humdingers. There were many from offshore licensees, but we’ll stick to US blunders.
The Forward Control (FC) was another creation of the legendary Brook Stevens, but its cab-over design was unconventional for the day and received with mixed reviews. And lest we forget the FJ Fleetvan. Produced from 1961 to 1976, this pug-nosed van came in a variety of flavours and made its mark as a right-hand drive (RHD) postal delivery vehicle.
Jeep also went postal with the RHD DJ-5A, or dispatch jeep. Based on the CJ-5, it had a sliding side door and Powerglide automatic transmission and along with the Fleetvan, was the only RHD Jeep offered in North America.
SEVEN SLOTS DOWN UNDER
With thousands of surplus Willys MBs and Ford GPWs available after WWII, demand did not merit the importing or manufacturing of Jeeps in Australia until the late 1950s. When the supply of military Jeeps ran dry, they began to arrive in crates and were assembled at the MS Brooking facility in Perth, Western Australia, and later by Willys Motors Australia in Brisbane, Queensland.
“Jeep vehicles doing Australia’s hardest work” was the motto, and the line expanded to include Willys wagon, pickups, Wagoneers, Forward Controls, and even a solitary Fleetvan. At the time, many parts such as electrical systems, various body panels, engines and ute trays were sourced locally or redesigned for the needs of folks in the outback. This included the Overlander, which was produced as a ute and wagon.
With AMC’s purchase of Jeep in 1970 and demand waning, it appeared that the seven-slot grille had seen its last day Down Under. But in the early ’80s AMC was back at the plate, establishing Jeep Australia to assemble the CJ-8, Overlander and CJ-10. All bets were off again in 1984, and on again in 1990. Exchange rates and other factors have contributed to this bumpy ride and while Jeep has not had the presence of other brands, it continues to have a strong and loyal following.
TUMULTUOUS TIMES
The Willys brand was eventually acquired by a long succession of parent companies ranging from Kaiser to Fiat. Each took their turn at amalgamating the brand with their own, but Jeep was different than anything they had experienced. It had true global identity, a devoted following and bulldog-stubborn management. Through recessions, oil embargos, market crashes, global economic pressures and wars, the brand continued to forge forward with relative autonomy.
Interestingly, if we look back to 1920, Walter P Chrysler had been commissioned by a group of bankers to help restructure Willys, which was heading for bankruptcy again. Although he left after a botched coup attempt to edge out founder John Willys, the company he later formed, the Chrysler Corporation, would eventually purchase American Motors and the Jeep brand from Renault.
JEEP EXPEDITIONS, EVENTS AND PEOPLE
While it is commonly accepted that the Willys helped win the war, Jeeps have undertaken some of the most incredible, inspiring and unlikely expeditions on record. They have traversed uncharted deserts of Africa, passed through countries many have never heard of, driven through the world’s densest jungles and even crossed oceans. We begin this journey of exploration with the legendary Long Range Desert Group.
1943 Long Range Desert Group: As a product of the WWII efforts, the first Jeeps, or Ford GPWs, were deployed in Libya to battle the Axis Alliance. Laden with machine guns, heaps of ammunition and fuel, they sneaked in behind enemy lines for hit-and-run and recce missions.
1948 Half Safe: One of the most impressive early Jeep expeditions was undertaken by Australian Ben Carlin. Piloting a 1942 Ford GPA amphibian, Carlin and his wife Elenore set off from Halifax, Canada, on a circumnavigation of the globe. It took Carlin three co-drivers and 10 years to complete a journey of 63,000 miles on land and 17,000 miles by sea.
1953 Jeepers Jamboree: Mark A Smith and a group of friends in Georgetown, California, organised a Jeep trip on the Rubicon Trail to help boost the town’s sagging economy. Little did they know their fledgling event would be nicknamed ‘The Granddaddy of Jeep Trips’ and their hometown trail would become known the world over.
1954-55: Helen and Frank Schreider traversed the Americas from Alaska to the tip of South America in an amphibious Ford GPA named La Tortuga. They would go on to undertake numerous expeditions around the world for the National Geographic Society; usually at the helm of La Tortuga.
1958 Singapore to England Overland: Roy Follows and Noel Dudgeon spent a year piloting their British surplus Willys, utilised during the WWII efforts in Burma, from Singapore to London.
1969 East West Australia: Ian McDonald and his small team made the first east-to-west crossing of the Simpson Desert as part of a 6000-mile expedition from Cape Byron to Steep Point.
1978 Expedicion de las Americas: With five stock CJ-7s, Mark A Smith and a small team made the first unsupported crossing of the infamous Darien Gap between Panama and Colombia during their 21,000-mile trek from the tip of North America to the tip of South America.
1982 Jeep Jamboree USA: Mark Smith’s vision to create an international Jeep culture prompted him to launch Jeep Jamboree USA. In the coming decades, he expanded the event roster to include dozens of Jamboree events around the world.
1984-89 A World Odyssey: Loren and Patty Upton set a Guinness World Record for the longest four-wheel drive journey by automobile in a 1966 CJ-5 called the Sand Ship Discovery. The journey included the first solo all-land crossing of the Darien Gap.
In 2019, author Chris Collard and publisher Ben Davidson successfully recreated East West Australia in celebration of its 50th anniversary, which included 1969 East West members Ian McDonald and John Eggleston.
SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST
Our 80-year timeline puts Jeep under the umbrella of Kaiser, AMC, Renault, Chrysler, Daimler-Benz, Fiat, and now Stellantis. There have been some rough spells, but the brand prevailed in the presence of reorganisations, acquisitions, down-sizing, up-scaling, and global market meltdowns. Like the soldiers it has carried into battle the world over, it is a survivor, beholden only to its ethos of producing rough-and-ready machines and determination to prevail.While Jeep’s current offerings range from new uber-opulent Grand Wagoneer to the compact Renegade, we need to give a shout out to the Wrangler Rubicon, Gladiator Mojave and new Grand Cherokee L. In each case, these models have defined the upper boundaries of supreme capability, high-speed desert performance and luxurious appointments. The auto industry is currently in a state of flux, and will be in the foreseeable future. But how does that look for the brand that created the off-road genre?
RETRO-MODERN CONCEPTS
For more than a decade, the design team at Jeep has confirmed its dedication to the brand’s DNA via their annual fleet of Moab concepts. Each represents a model from a different era, melded together with modern powertrains and creative queues from their predecessors. Behold the Five-Quarter 715, Sarge J8, Mighty FC and Jeepster Beach Commando.
ELECTRIFYING FUTURE
We recently sat in on a meeting with Jeep’s top brass to hear what’s in store for the coming decades. Based on global energy and environmental concerns, it was no surprise when they confirmed the future will be electrifying … as in hybrids, full EVs and artificial intelligence. The 49-mpg (20.8km/L) Wrangler 4xe hybrid is rolling out as we speak, and the plan is to have zero-emission options for all product lines by 2025. Jeep is also dedicated to having 70 per cent of its sales worldwide be electrified in some way in the next four years.
Other ambitious goals include autonomous off-road driving, biometric owner recognition, vehicle-to-vehicle charging, drone pairing (for the ultimate selfies), and dynamic tyre inflation (CTIS). This news of rapid developments in high-tech electrification begged the question … can they do all of this while maintaining its legendary capability? With an excitement in their eyes, they assured us that the future looks bright. The seven-slot brand will continue to be competitive and compliant, yet dedicated to maintaining the Jeep’s ethos as a premium off-road offering. Ambitious, we think so.
Jeep Taglines Through the Years
1945: Like a Bat out of Hell 1959: Anywhere, Anytime, Any Job 1963: Great Fun in a New Fashion 1965: The Unstoppable Jeep Gladiator 1970: Classic Beauty in a 4-Wheel Drive 1971: The One That Goes Where Others Can’t 1974: Built for the Fun of Real Adventure 1977: We Wrote the Book on 4-Wheel Drive 1983: Why Drive a Car When You Can Drive a Jeep 1990: There’s Only One Jeep 2004: Trail Rated