4X4 Australia

VOLKSWAGEN has let slip that a Toyota Fortuner-rivalling, seven-seat SUV based on the Amarok is definitely on the carmaker’s development table.

Under intense scrutiny over why Volkswagen Commercial, the commercial vehicle arm of Volkswagen Group, chose not to add head-protecting side curtain airbags as part of a major makeover for the Amarok ute due in Australia late this year, a spokesman told 4X4 Australia that they would need to be engineered in for the next generation “for the seven-seat”.

“It [rear-curtain airbags] is under consideration for this generation,” the spokesman said. Asked if the head-protecting rear airbags would definitely be part of the second-generation Amarok due around 2019, he said: “We will have to have it for this [Amarok] and for the seven-seat.”

It’s the closest we have come to confirmation that Volkswagen is considering the niche seven-seat off-roader as part of its future product development. It won’t need to be a big-volume seller for the commercial division of VW, either, with Amarok designer Albert-Johann Kirzinger indicating that an Amarok-based SUV would only need to attract a small number of sales – about 1000 a year – to make it viable.

“When we look at a niche in the commercial vehicles, we’re looking at numbers that are lower than one per cent [of total sales],” he said.

Adding weight to the seven-seat Amarok’s development is a shift to a 3.0-litre V6 turbo-diesel engine for the ute, which will help to move the heavier kerb mass of a wagon-based Amarok via a more versatile spread of torque than the current twin-turbo 2.0-litre engine.

Australia is the second largest market for the Amarok outside South America, with VW keen to maintain a foothold here even as mining companies step up their safety standards to mandate side curtain airbags on all vehicles used on worksites. The Amarok currently wears a top five-star crash rating in Australia – it was the first vehicle sold here to gain the top score without side curtain airbags. Instead, it relies on a specially engineered safety cell to protect rear-seat passengers in the event of a side-on collision.

However, the seven-seat Amarok’s niche future may be over even before it starts, with the carmaker – struggling in the wake of the ‘Dieselgate’ emissions scandal – reportedly looking to cull up to 40 models from its product line-up as part of cost-saving measures.

IN RECENT years, road testing at 4X4 Australia has involved a near constant stream of turbo-diesels, with the odd petrol engine in the mix.

But this status quo was recently undone, with no fewer than three petrol vehicles – in a row – to road test, which has got to be some sort of record.

You may think: “Well, so what?” But there’s more to this tale than that. Two of those three petrol engines were small-capacity turbocharged fours rather than larger-capacity naturally aspirated fours, sixes or eights, all of which says much about where automotive engine development is heading right now.

First up was the Haval H9, a Chinese take on a Toyota Prado, save for its 2.0-litre turbocharged four-cylinder petrol engine. Otherwise, the H9 mimics the Prado in every way: six-speed auto; same body dimensions; seven seats with 150-Series folding, side-hinged single rear door; separate chassis; independent/coil front suspension; live-axle/coil rear suspension; and dual-range, full-time 4×4.

All that means the Haval H9 shares its weight with the Prado and in the case of the test vehicle, 2236kg would seem a lot for a 2.0-litre petrol donk – even one with a turbo – to haul around. After all, the Prado comes with a 4.0-litre petrol V6 or a latest-design 2.8-litre turbo-diesel.

Truth is, the Haval’s 2.0-litre four does very nicely. With its maximum torque on tap at an almost diesel-like 2000rpm, and then remaining undiminished for the next 2000rpm, it makes very useable and perfectly progressive power in that much-used rpm range.

The Haval’s engine bears an uncanny technical resemblance to Volkswagen’s current 2.0-litre TSI engine, a turbocharged petrol four that serves in a range of VW models however Haval says the design is “in-house”.

The engine has all the latest technical features you’d expect from a premium European brand, not from a Chinese – or even a Japanese – manufacturer. Those features include high-pressure direct fuel injection, a low-inertia dual-scroll turbocharger and an undersquare bore/stroke relationship designed to optimise the combustion chamber shape.

If the Haval’s small 2.0-litre engine did an excellent job of hauling more than two tonnes of heavy-duty Prado-like 4×4, then I was even more impressed by the second, and even smaller, turbo four, which boasts just 1.4 litres.

This engine was sampled back-to-back with a 2.4-litre naturally aspirated petrol four, both of which are available in Jeep’s new baby wagon, the Renegade.

The Fiat-designed 1.4-litre turbo is the default engine in the Renegade range, with the off-road-pitched Trailhawk being the only model using the Chrysler-designed 2.4-litre.

Interestingly, the 1.4-litre turbo claims a maximum of 230Nm, the same as the 2.4 but where the 1.4-litre’s peak torque is available from just 2500rpm, the 2.4 needs 4400rpm to achieve the same peak. Ultimately the 2.4-litre makes more power than the 1.4-litre (129kW versus 103kW), but it needs an additional 1000rpm to do so.

With its stronger torque at much lower engine speeds, the 1.4 is more eager and responsive than the atmo 2.4, and it does that with just six speeds inits dual-clutch sequential gearbox – the 2.4-litre has nine speeds to call on via its ZF auto transmission.

Being a much smaller-capacity engine, the 1.4-litre is noticeably smoother than the sometimes buzzy 2.4, due to the less than ideal dynamic balance of an in-line four, especially in bigger capacities and at higher revs.

The lesson here is if turbo-diesels fall over due to emission regulations, then the small-capacity turbo-petrol engine is ready for more widespread duty.

History Lesson

THE IDEA of increasing an engine’s power output by forcing air into its combustion chambers, rather than having the engine draw in the air itself, is as old as the internal combustion engine. Indeed, Gottlieb Daimler, the automobile’s ‘father’, patented a gear-driven air compressor (or supercharger as we know it today) as early as 1885.

The first turbocharger, or exhaust-gas-driven air compressor, was patented in 1905, but the idea wasn’t put into practice until World War I, where turbos started to appear on military aircraft engines.

Turbos first appeared in passenger cars in 1962, when General Motors produced both the Oldsmobile Cutlass Jetfire and the far more controversial rear-engined Chevrolet Corvair Monza Spyder for the USA market.

For various reasons neither car was a success, but the future of turbocharged road cars became assured when BMW launched its 2002 Turbo in 1973 and Porsche its 911 Turbo the following year.

BACK IN late 2015, Nissan repositioned its Patrol range – dropping from three variants to two and slicing close to $20,000 off the price of some models.

The big Patrol has always been a good thing, but when entry-level meant forking out around $85K, most struggled to see the value in it. Now, starting at $69,990 with more standard equipment, the Patrol makes a lot more sense and has seen a bump in sales.

It has been a few years since we last drove a Y62, and today we’re looking at the entry-level 2016 Patrol Ti (the up-spec Ti-L is $86,990).

POWER PLUS

THE drivetrain in the 2016 Patrol range remains the same as when the model lobbed here early in 2013. That’s the stonking VK56 5.6-litre V8 engine backed by a seven-speed auto-only transmission. The 5552cc V8 engine bellows out 298kW and 560Nm and is silky smooth in its delivery. The high-tech engine’s variable valve lift and duration system gives it a very linear power delivery and sporty characteristics, even if it is fitted in a massive off-road wagon. Fit a big free-flowing exhaust to this baby and listen to it sing! Around town and on off-road tracks, the engine burbles along without a care, but squeeze the throttle for a steep mountain climb or a quick on-road squirt and it blasts out its exuberance.

However, no amount of tech can make this 2750kg off-road wagon fuel efficient. The Ti has a 14.5L/100km official ADR rating, but it used 15.7 litres of premium unleaded fuel for every 100km we drove with it. Yes, the Nissan asks for premium fuel, and keeping its 140-litre tank full can be costly.

The Patrol uses an on-demand 4×4 system which, when in Auto mode, is rear-axle biased and only sends drive to the front when needed. Turn the All Mode 4×4 dial to ‘4H’ and the front-to-rear drive is locked 50:50 for loose road surface use. Turn it another click clockwise and the system enters low-range four-wheel drive for real off-road use. The drive system benefits from a multi-terrain system with Off-Road, Sand, Snow and Rock settings, and there’s a selectable rear differential lock.

The system works well in most conditions, but it can be a bit slow to react if left to its own devices in Auto mode. For example, we were climbing a wet and snotty hill in Auto and the system struggled and sent limited power to the wheels. Simply flicking from Auto to 4H gave an instant boost in traction, as the Patrol surged onwards and upwards.

The original model range was mechanically differentiated by the inclusion of Hydraulic Body Motion Control (HBMC) on the two upper-spec models, while the entry-level model made do with conventional coils on its full-independent suspension. Both models now get the clever HBMC system, making the two grades mechanically identical. A HBMC-equipped Ti Patrol used to be a $93,390 option, but it’s now much more attractive at $70K.

The real benefits of the HBMC system are experienced on a closed track, and we had that opportunity when the Patrol was first launched. Driving straight from a tight and tricky off-road track – where the stock Y62 crawled through easier than a stock GU Patrol – we went onto a closed road course, where the 62 astonished with is flat cornering and dynamics (considering its size and heft). Sure, it’s no sports car, and you can’t hide that mass, but it’s amazing how this thing handles. We had similar experiences on this test, where we went from wet and tricky tracks to twisting mountain roads with ease and confidence.

CABIN FEVER

IF YOU like a big car, you’ll love the Patrol. It’s big all ’round and even makes a Land Cruiser 200 feel compact in comparison. Space in the front- and second-row seats is ample and comfortably accommodates five adults, but the third-row pew is more suited to kids, which is surprising when you consider smaller wagons like the Isuzu MU-X do a better job of the third row.

However, the Patrol wins again when you go further back – you could just about fit a 40-litre fridge behind the third-row seat. The Patrol Ti has seating for eight (with three shorties in the back seat), while the TI-L is limited to seven.

PRACTICALITIES

THE Patrol rolls on large 18-inch alloy wheels, but they wear sensible 70 aspect tyres for a good-sized sidewall. The 265/70R18s are massive and equate to a 33-inch tyre, so you should have no trouble fitting off-road 33s, or 35s with a two-inch suspension lift.

There’s plenty of aftermarket gear available for the Y62, but more specialised things like snorkels, drawers and rear bars can be harder to come by. The active crew in the Y62 owners group have done some sourcing of their own to get the products they want made, and the intake snorkel is one example.

Under the bonnet, the big airbox draws air through the near-side ’guard, while the air cleaner is accessible without needing tools. There is space behind the standard battery for a second battery, but you need to relocate a computer and some other bits to make it fit. There are kits available for this. There are tow hooks front and rear, but they aren’t the solid-rated type you really want to use for a vehicle recovery.

The standard fuel tank’s 140-litre capacity sounds good, but the best you’ll get out of the V8 engine on the highway will be high 12s per 100km, so range will be limited to around 700km. It’s the price you pay for having such a sweet V8 in a big bus.

WHAT YOU GET

IN SO many ways, the Y62 is like no other Patrol before it; none more so than the level of equipment in it compared to anything in the past. Among its many features, the Ti comes with HBMC; keyless entry and push button start; leather seats with power adjustment on the front ones; three-zone climate control; sat-nav; an around-view monitor; tyre pressure monitor; and a power sunroof.

Fork out more for the Ti-L and you add forward collision warning; blind spot monitoring; lane departure warning; radar cruise control; xenon headlights; a Bose sound system; and power folding door mirrors with puddle lamps. The entry-level Ti has everything you need, but the Ti-L takes it up a notch.

If you want to go further, you could look at the Infiniti QX80. At $111,000, the QX80 is based on the same vehicle, but dials everything up to 11 – it comes in a bespoke body that only a mother beluga whale could love. Both Patrols and the Infiniti all share the same 5.6L V8 engine mated to a seven-speed auto and all-mode 4×4 system; it’s just the level of features that dictates the price. However, no matter what you choose, all the good stuff is there at the base level.

BIG BRUTE

THE Y62 Patrol mightn’t be the old GU we knew and loved, but it’s a new-age 4×4 that relies on technology and brawn to deliver a high-performing, super-spacious wagon. Sure, it’s thirsty compared to a diesel-fuelled vehicle, and there’s no question Nissan would sell a lot more of them if they could offer a diesel engine, but for what it is, there’s nothing like the big Patrol at this price. To get similar levels of equipment and performance, you need to be looking at European wagons that cost a lot more and don’t have the same off-road ability.

Even for a Land Cruiser 200 Series at similar spec, you’re looking at $92,500 (for the VX petrol LC200) or $97,500 (for a VX diesel). With that $20K saving, you could buy a lot of PULP to keep that VK56 V8 singing.

ON A ROLL

ELSEWHERE in the June issue (page 86), Fraser Stronach explains the working of Toyota’s KDSS sway bar system. Nissan’s Hydraulic Body Motion Control (HBMC) is similar, but it takes it a step further and its benefits are greater.

For decades, off-road drivers have removed or disconnected their vehicles’ anti-sway bars to improve the wheel travel of their suspension and off-road ability. That’s all good, but the problem lies when you hit the road to go home and the vehicle rolls around like a tall cork in a rough sea. Anti-sway or stabiliser bars control body roll, but limit wheel travel.

Nissan’s full-independent, coil-spring suspension with HBMC does away with sway bars. Instead, the shock absorbers are linked by hydraulic lines and are able to pressurise each side of the vehicle to steady the ship. This action is speed-dependent so the shocks pressurise at road speeds to maintain a flat stance, but can soften up at low, off-road speeds to allow the suspension to droop to maximum effect.

And before you write HBMC off as a system that will prevent you from raising the ride height or fitting bigger tyres, specialist 4×4 shops such as Melbourne’s On Track 4×4 have developed a kit to give the system a 50mm lift. You can’t build a hurdle that the Australian 4×4 aftermarket can’t conquer!

[specs] NISSAN PATROL Ti Engine: DOHC 32-valve DI petrol V8 Capacity: 5.6-litre (5552cc) Power: 298kW @ 5800rpm Torque: 560Nm @ 4000rpm Gearbox: seven-speed auto 4X4 System: on-demand auto with locked high and low ranges Crawl Ratio: 43.95:1 Construction: five-door wagon on a separate chassis Front suspension: independent/coil springs Rear suspension: independent/coil springs Tyre size: 265/70R18 Tare Mass: 2706kg GVM: 3500kg Payload: 794kg Towing capacity: 3500kg Seating capacity: eight Fuel tank capacity: 140 litres ADR fuel claim: 14.5L/100km Test consumption: 15.7L/100km

Winter isn’t coming, it’s here. that means it’s the perfect time for soup! Here’s a hearty feed that’ll chase away those winter blues.

INGREDIENTS Makes a very large pot of soup Olive oil 4 to 6 slices of thick smoked bacon, chopped (the more bacon you use, the more intense the bacon flavour) 1 onion, finely chopped 1 leek, washed and thinly sliced (use the white and light-green part only. If you don’t have a leek, add an extra onion) 4 to 6 garlic cloves, crushed (or 4 to 6 tsps of minced garlic from the jar) 1 to 2 tsps of dried red chilli flakes (optional) 2 stalks of celery, chopped 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 to 4 potatoes, diced 1 zucchini, diced 8 cups of chicken stock (salt reduced) 810g can of crushed tomatoes 1 tbsp of tomato paste (optional for flavour) ¼ to ½ Savoy cabbage, shredded (to your personal preference) 1 to 2 tsps of dried thyme (or to taste – it can take over) 2 x 400g tins of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed (white kidney beans or fasolia beans) Salt and pepper 6 to 8 slices of day-old, stale white bread, crusts removed and torn into chunks (sourdough, Pane di Casa or crusty breads are really good)

OPTIONAL HOP-UPS Shaved or grated Parmesan cheese can be used.

Pour a little olive oil over the top of the soup before serving, if you want a traditional finish.

Add or omit whatever vegetables you want. Traditionally, kale and/or char are added. The addition of green beans is also good.

COOKING IT

VIV’S EXTRA HINTSnTo achieve a thick consistency, you donu2019t need potato, pasta or rice u2013 all you need is old, stale bread. This technique of thickening soups is commonly used in Mediterranean soups, with the bread adding texture and bulk. You can control the thickness of the soup with the amount of bread you add: the denser the bread, the thicker the soup u2013 since dense bread absorbs more liquid than lighter bread.

It’s a great way of using leftover stale bread, and a good way to use up lots of vegetables.

This recipe is based on a classic, hearty Tuscan and it’s full of body and flavour. It might not be completely traditional, but it tastes great. It needs to be cooked and then left for at least day or so – Ribollita means re-boil. Like most soups, it tastes better after two or three days.

IT’S FUNNY, isn’t it? Last month we had a yarn about metal fatigue, and I showed you some of the damage on Milo’s front panel. But then when I went to make another one, the first thing I had to deal with was another form of fatigue.

No, not the sort that sees the average mudflatter with his head on the bar late at night after a rather long counter lunch. Nope, this time it was rubber fatigue in the MIG welder.

If I sound surprised, it’s because I was. See, I bought that MIG more than 15 years ago after putting in buckets of research to make sure I got the right one. It’s the first MIG I’ve ever owned and will probably outlast me. So I guess this column is a bit of a yarn on what to look for when you’re spending money on tools. And it’s written by someone who’s wasted so much money on tools over the years, he should know.

I started collecting tools as a lad. My 14th birthday present was a set of Sidchrome sockets – Whitworth-sized, because I had an old BSA. I’ve still got them, and still use them. They’re a bit rusty maybe, but good tools can last a lifetime. At 16, with a toolbox full from farm sales and things bought when needed, I made the biggest investment of my life: a stick (or arc) welder, because I wanted to weld some mounts to my FJ to take a red motor.

These days you can buy stick welders anywhere, from Big W to the web, but back then, especially in the country, there wasn’t a lot of range. In fact, in my town I had a choice of two, and one was an industrial model so expensive I could have bought another dozen or so FJs for the same money. That’s not saying much: the average price of an FJ in 1973 was about $50.

This was still slightly more than I earned in a week, and the smaller welder still cost me three weeks’ work. It was a Liquid Arc, made in Australia, and although it looks like total crap, it still works.

I got lucky, because in those days in a small town no business could survive selling stuff that didn’t last. Strangely enough, last time I passed through there, there was a dollar shop selling rubbish where the old hardware store used to be. Times change, eh?

That little Liquid Arc taught me to stick weld, which meant I could always make a buck in the bush; in the ranks of bush mechanics, you’re judged by how good your own welding looks. Starting young is an advantage!

Along the way I learnt gas welding, too, although the gas usually got used more for cutting, brazing and bending. Still, armed with both, I could pretty much do anything. So, even though the world had shifted to MIG welding, I just stuck to the old stick.

Then, faced with a whole stack of panel welding back in the days when I first built Milo, I figured it was time to invest in an MIG and learn how to use one. I looked at various models, asked people who used them daily – like my mate Cooky who builds custom exhausts – and did a bit of homework on the principles behind gas shielding. I wound up yarning with a bloke called Greg from State of the Arc.

Here’s the first trick: If you’re going to make a real investment in tools, go to a specialist (forget about the combination 52-piece toolkit you get for $12 at Aldi). In my case, that meant travelling a couple of suburbs away to Capalaba. Greg was a boilermaker in a past life and exactly the sort of bloke who knew about welding. He recommended buying the largest single-phase MIG in the shop, which was a lovely bright red Lincoln.

I baulked at the price – even if it was only half that of a rusty FJ – but he told me the same factory that made Lincolns under licence here in Australia also made its own brand – much the same thing but at a better price. That brand was Liquid Arc. With happy memories of the back seat of the old FJ, I gladly put in an order.

The ‘new’ MIG worked brilliantly every time I needed it, until I plugged it in to do the job pictured here. Then it spattered and sparked and generally behaved like one of us had lost the plot. It gave plenty of gas, so the wire feed was right, but the test welds looked like bird shit.

So I rang State of the Arc and asked to speak to Greg. I figured after 15 years he’d probably moved on, but he was still there. Good shops are like that. I was only halfway through describing my problem when he said: “How old is it again?” He told me that the rubber gas line was probably past its use-by date, so none of the shielding gas was getting to the handpiece. Then he told me how to fix it.

After a bit of mucking around and sourcing some old fuel line, I was back in business. I was so chuffed I figured I’d drop over to State of the Arc with a slab of XXXX. I would have, too, except the old bike wouldn’t start until I’d swapped out the battery – and the 10mm spanner and Phillips driver from the Aldi toolkit had turned to cheese.

So if you’re planning on mucking around with machines for a lifetime or two, good tools are worth every penny. Next month I’ll tell you how things went with the new front panel!

USING beer for any other reason other than drinking it better be bloody worth it. And, in this case, it is. Who doesn’t like beer-battered fish and crispy chips?

However, before you throw the snapper in the pot of boiling water, the first task is to knock up some French-style chips.

To get the chips a lovely, crispy golden brown, cut the spuds thin and cook the chips twice in the oil. Don’t bother peeling the spuds either, as that’s a waste of time according to Roothy. A thorough wash will do just fine.

Once the chips are put to the side, it’s time to concoct the beer batter. Roothy’s method is to keep it really simple – the outback way.

All you’ll need is egg yolk, plain flour, salt, sugar, cream, and the miracle ingredient: beer (remember, it’s important to taste the beer before you apply it).

Smother the snapper (or whatever cut of fish you’d like) in the batter and throw it in the oil for a few minutes, or until golden brown. Voila!

When you’re in outback Australia, you’re a long way from the ocean, but that shouldn’t stop you from indulging in a great feed of fish and chips. Plus there aren’t any seagulls bugging you for a chip – well, apart from the campsite neighbours.

THE BATTLE between wagons and utes has been raging since the first ute rolled off the production line.

One camp loves the versatility of a wagon; the other loves the versatility of a ute. Wagon owners will rant and rave about their storage options, while those with utes will do the same. It’s a rivalry of epic proportions, where even manufacturers hedge their bets by producing what are essentially the same vehicles in both configurations.

The harsh reality is: If you’re serious about remote-area touring a ute is the hands-down winner, and that comes from someone who owns a wagon. You only need to look at the popular trends in wagons lately to see what I mean. We’re hell-bent on caging off the back to give us two separate compartments. The real adventurous even cut the quarter panels to replace vulnerable sheetmetal with tougher plate and tube steel.

View our guide to building a 4×4 on a $10K budget

If you didn’t know better you’d be forgiven for thinking we were trying to replicate all the positives of a ute, while still maintaining the comfort levels of a wagon. However, with the refinement and power levels of modern-day utes being toe-to-toe with their wagon counterparts, things start slanting pretty heavily in favour of utes.

It’s no surprise utes are continually growing in the Australian market and are quickly replacing the wagon as the family bus, and the overwhelming reason is the sheer versatility and storage space the platform offers.

Over the years we’ve gone from the simple tonneau cover (or rudimentary canopies) through to today’s high-gloss and weatherproof offerings. But it’s the current trend of bolt-on, custom-built canopies and campers that has grabbed our attention. They’ve taken the market by storm, offering all the strength of a Sherman tank while making your 4×4 more comfortable off-road. You only need to scan through these pages to see any number of touring set-ups – with varying levels of refinement – ready to take on this vast continent.

We have wrangled some of the biggest names in the industry to give us their unbiased advice on what your options include. From simple canopies with steel construction right through to pop-top campers and TIG-welded aluminium, this guide will help you turn your four-wheel drive into a red-dirt-eating tourer.

UNDERSTANDING YOUR NEEDS Choosing a canopy or camper for your four-wheel drive can be complicated as there are thousands of options to choose from, and for the price of some of the higher-end models you could pick up a near-new 70 Series Land Cruiser. So there’s plenty of incentive to buy the right set-up for your needs.

It’s easy to find something that looks great on another person’s rig and want the same, but what works in one situation won’t necessarily work in yours.

“When we have a new customer come through the door for a canopy the first questions we will ask are: What are you mostly going to use it for, how often and where?” Kelvyn Kruger from Metalink said. “Only then can we start to design a unit to suit their specific needs.”

The first step before worrying about integrated headboards and slide-out kitchens is to come up with a list of what you want to do with the tray. Does the tray need to come off? If so, how often? Do you want to camp in the tray, out of it, or just use it for storage? Will it stay loaded with camping gear, or will it need to do double-duty for work? What sort of terrain will you be spending the majority of your time in? This affects the required dustproofing or water resistance, as well as the corrosion requirements of the set-up.

However, the elephant in the room is weight. You’re effectively redesigning half of your vehicle, which can have drastic effects on GVM, towing ability, handling, off-road ability and steering feel. In vehicles that are already close to their GVM, or do a lot of towing, the extra weight can make the vehicle essentially unusable. On the other hand, nose-heavy vehicles which are rarely loaded can perform better with some extra weight over the rear axle.

When you know which general direction you want to head, it’s important to then find the right person for the job.

“No matter what, always ask for previous experience and photos to give you a clear idea of what is available and what the fabricator can deliver,” Isaac Edmiston from Norweld Engineering told us. “Regardless of the scope of work involved, it’s important to know that they can deliver on what was quoted or what work you require. If the price is too good to be true, there is usually a reason.”

GET THE RIGHT MATERIALS Every single shop will tell you whatever construction method and materials they use are the best. There are pros and cons for just about every style available, so you need an informed idea of what you’re after before picking up the phone.

Without doubt the cheapest and lightest option is canvas over a steel frame. This offers excellent value for the budget-conscious and, with varying levels of strength from the internal frames, can hold up to some abuse. These can be picked up from as little as $3000 for a basic set-up through to around $8000 if you’re chasing roof-carrying capacity and secure sides. Their biggest downfalls include a lack of protection from the elements and low refinement levels.

Next up the price ladder, at around $3000-$8000 for a basic set-up, are mild steel enclosed canopies. The lower price is reflective of the increased weight, and they are susceptible to corrosion depending on their levels of protection. A standard paintjob will quickly age with use, while light scrapes can rust. Hot-dipped galvanised trays rectify some of these issues with much higher resistance to wear and tear, although future modifications will damage the galvanised surface, opening the potential for rust.

The current market is largely dominated by custom-built aluminium set-ups, so expect to pay in the vicinity of $5000-$12,000 depending on quality and options. Despite the higher pricetag, the pros often outweigh the cons.

“Aluminium trays are great for weight saving and corrosion resistance,” Isaac said, “but require careful thought put into the design and welding process to ensure a long-lasting and great-looking tray.” The generally thicker construction means you don’t give anything away to steel canopies in terms of strength.

Some of the more elaborate set-ups on the market are often built from fibreglass or a composite of materials. While heavier than comparable aluminium trays, fibreglass set-ups are often more involved, making it hard to compare apples to apples. Much like aluminium, repairs aren’t complicated but require knowledgeable repairers.

“We use a composite lay-up and this keeps weight down but produces a high-grade strength,” Darren Hoger from Travelander added. Depending on the camper, these can come in anywhere between the low $20,000 mark to more than $50,000. However, as they’re essentially a ute-mounted caravan they shouldn’t be compared on price alone.

WHAT STYLE WORKS FOR YOU Next in the selection process is deciding which basic design and construction methods to use. There are two popular styles of tray you’re likely to come across, with multiple variations within both. The market is 50/50 split between tray- and chassis-mounted canopies, with both having positive traits.

A canopy bolted directly to the chassis has a few main benefits. “You need to ask: ‘Do I really need to take the tray off?’” Kelvyn Kruger stated. “If the answer is no, you’re better to go for a canopy bolted straight to the chassis as it is a lighter option with a lower floor height.”

The additional benefit of a chassis-mounted canopy is significant cost savings, without the need for a separate tray. “Chassis-mounted canopies negate the need to purchase both a tray and a canopy,” Caitlin Bresette from Uteboss Utility Canopies added. “We simply remove the tub, fit the canopy, wire the lights and away you go. If you don’t plan on changing vehicles frequently or taking off the canopy, a chassis-mounted model is a great option.”

While a tray-mounted canopy falls behind in terms of price and weight, they leap ahead with regards to versatility. All tray-mounted canopies are able to be removed and re-fitted to another vehicle if you upgrade or need to clear the tray for work duties. “Our canopies are able to be lifted off in six minutes,” Darren Hodges commented. “You’re not stuck in one spot, the vehicle is freed up to go out and see the surroundings.”

Before signing on the dotted line there are a few key design elements left to double-check. If you’re planning on fitting roof-top tents, boat loaders or roof racks on top of the canopy you’ll need to ensure the roof is sufficiently reinforced.

For steel and alloy trays this can be as simple as implementing a fabricated structure inside; fibreglass canopies can achieve similar results with an internal frame or ribbing on the roof itself. Check for quality welding on previous examples, as well as strengthened inside doors and (large) panels.

Corrosion resistance can be enhanced by the use of stainless-steel fixings, as well as chemically bonded panels and welded framework. Some canopies and trays are bolted together to allow twisting and reduce fatigue; although, if you come across panels warped from welding or held down with screws or mild steel bolts, turn tail and run!

SMOOTH AROUND THE EDGES What can you get fitted inside your shiny new camper set-up? Do you want the canopy to include sleeping options, or is it simply for storage? A single person can get by with a swag rolled out inside, but if you’re chasing a nicer set-up you’ll want to be looking at either a pop-top set-up with a queen bed or a hard-floor camper for more floor space.

If you’re planning on using the canopy as a camper set-up you’ll also want a standalone electrical system, preferably with lightweight lithium batteries. Water storage and camp kitchens are more-or-less standard now, so look for integrated plumbing for both water and gas.

A comprehensive storage system can also mean you’re ready to go at a moment’s notice. “For short trips, time is precious,” Caitlin Besette added. “You don’t want to spend half the weekend packing the ute with everything you need. We can make a designated spot for all the essentials to stay in the canopy for when you need them.”

You’ll need to keep the contents secure from the elements and prying hands, so ensure external access is key-lockable and capable of preventing dust ingress. Some companies offer auto locks synced to the car’s locking.

By now your list of wants (and don’t wants) is undoubtedly getting longer, but these last few requirements are the most important.

Firstly, is the design smart? Weight positioning can drastically affect the performance of a 4×4, so check that most weight is as forward as possible – water storage, electrical systems and kitchens should ideally be in front of the rear axle, with camping gear up the back. Also pay extra attention to the little details often overlooked. If the set-up needs to be modified later on, is it possible? Are there sufficient tie-down points internally? Is the fuel filler accounted for in the design, or will it be cable-tied underneath?

TOP TIPS

If it all seems like we’re speaking Chinese, here are a few simple tips to keep in mind when on the hunt for the perfect touring set-up.

1. WEIGHT Weight is your enemy when off-road. Do you really need an extra 200 litres of water and a triple battery set-up for the weekend getaway? Probably not.

2. PRICE It’s easy to baulk at the high-end canopy set-ups, but a lot of them are comparable to more expensive camper trailers and caravans yet lighter and better off-road.

3. QUALITY If you can’t afford to buy a better-built camper to start with, can you afford to have a cheaper one repaired or modified if it breaks later on? Buy once, cry once!

THANKS

METALINK Web: www.metalink.net.au Ph: (07) 5445 0893.

NORWELD Web: www.norweld.com.au Ph: 1300 302 899.

UTEBOSS UTILITY CANOPIES Web: www.utebosscanopies.com.au Ph: 0431 135 354.

TRAVELANDER Web: www.travelander.com.au Ph: 1300 287 283.

THERE’S no denying double-cab 4×4 utes have become the default vehicle for families who live an adventurous lifestyle or need a dual-purpose work-cum-recreational truck. But popular models like the HiLux, Ranger and Triton have their limitations.

If you have more than two teenage kids, the rear seat isn’t going to fit them in comfort, and the angle of the seat-back in some of those popular utes is fairly upright and uncomfortable. The Asian-branded utes aren’t great for towing anything that weighs three tonnes or more, so if you have a large boat or horse float you’d need to go for a large wagon (like the LC 200 or Discovery) or a commercial truck (like the LC79). Even then, the big Cruisers only have the capacity you want if they are equipped with a GMV upgrade and/or a chassis stretch.

The only factory alternatives with the capacity you need are full-sized American pick-up trucks. Made in the millions by the big three US auto manufacturers, these trucks out-haul any readily available option here in Australia – yet they aren’t made in right-hand drive, so car companies here don’t sell them. Thankfully we have a strong aftermarket that recognises the need for such vehicles in this country and who source, import and convert the trucks for Aussie buyers.

We’ve lined up a truck from each of the Big Three – from three different importer/distributors – to get a feel for how well they work on Australian roads. The Ford F-250 Lariat comes to us from Harrison F-Trucks; the GMC Denali from Performax; and the RAM Laramie 2500 from American Special Vehicles. All these suppliers have full-volume Australian compliance to sell these trucks. We spent two days with them on the tracks and roads of rural Victoria, and also lived with them for a week in town.

FORD F-250 LARIAT

IN Australia, Toyota’s HiLux occasionally tops the monthly new-car sales chart, yet in the USA, Ford’s F-Series trucks have been the best-selling vehicle for decades. Part of that comes from the huge range of F-Series, starting with the F-150 and growing through the F-250, F-350, F-450, F-550 and monstrous F-650 rigs. But we’re concentrating on the popular F-250 Super Duty model that’s sold in Australia via several outlets – this Lariat-spec 2015 Effie came from Harrisons in Melton, where it’s a $152,000 offering.

DRIVELINE & CAPACITIES YOU’LL generally find all the Super Duty Effies are powered by the Powerstroke 6.7-litre turbo-diesel V8 engine in Australia. They come with a petrol V8 in the US, but there’s no call for that here. The Powerstroke 6.7 makes a plate-shifting 1166Nm from around 1600rpm, which is enough to haul a 7.6-tonne trailer or a 1900kg payload, although these figures are generally down-rated for Australia so that Aussies can drive them with a regular driver’s licence. Check with your importer/dealer for specifics.

The V8 engine is backed by a six-speed automatic transmission and part-time 4×4, while the F-250 is the only vehicle on this test to be fitted with a selectable rear differential lock (RDL). Electronic Traction Control (ETC) is standard.

CHASSIS & HANDLING THE Ford F-250 Super Duty rides on a heavy-duty ladder chassis with live axles front and rear. The front end sits on coil springs, while the rear is on traditional leaves. These trucks each use old-style steering boxes that have either been relocated to the right-hand side of the chassis or, in some cases, remanufactured in a mirror image of the OE steering box.

The steering in the Harrison F-250 feels very light at all speeds, which makes it nice and easy to park, but on the highway the front end is very reactive to bumps, resulting in the driver needing to make constant corrections. It otherwise offers a relaxed highway gait as the big engine lopes along at low revs, while it’s relatively easy to punt swiftly in the bends. None of these trucks are sports cars, but they aren’t as monstrous as one might expect.

OFF-ROAD OFF-ROAD testing was done at the Melbourne 4×4 Training and Proving Ground, where we chose a long, steep and rutted climb to evaluate the tractive abilities of the trucks. It’s a hill we’ve seen stop many 4x4s when they hit the deeper holes near the top.

With the rear diff lock engaged, the F-250 made the climb with relatively little scrambling or loss of traction. We put this down to the longer wheelbase of these trucks over more conventional 4x4s, and where it placed the tyres on the track. On the descent it delivered reasonable engine braking, while Hill Decent Control worked well. Even without the RDL engaged, the F-250 crawled its way up with ease, seemingly flexing more than the other trucks.

TOWING WITH payloads that barely amount to that of the average one-tonner in Australia, you may be forgiven for thinking these big trucks are a bit ‘style-over-substance’, but towing is what they’re all about. All three are torque monsters with big-displacement engines, so we decided to hitch the best part of three tonnes to the back of them and see how they handled a decent load.

Sure, we’d like to have hitched something heavier behind them, but all three were only equipped with 50mm tow balls and standard hitches – which only allow a load of up to 3.5 tonnes, after which we’d need a 70mm ball up to 4.5 tonnes. Anything above that needs a Pintle hitch or fifth wheel set-up.

The Ford has the most torque and highest towing capacity, at 1166Nm and 7500kg respectively, so it was a front runner to be the best tow tug. While there’s no doubt the drivetrain hauled the load the easiest, the big F-truck didn’t feel so settled on the open road. There was a tendency toward bump-steer that kept us busy on the wheel during the test loop. With a load on board, the rear end of the two-fiddy felt planted and solid, but the front end let it down. Tow mode on the SelectShift transmission made the most of all the horses thundering into it, and downshifts were superb, but we were expecting better road manners when hauling.

CABIN AND ACCOMMODATION THIS is one of the most accommodating cabins on the market, with acres of space in the front and back seats; cushy leather seats; familiar Ford Sync A/V system; extra switches in-dash for accessories; and bucketloads of storage options. It’s got the lot. The sat-nav wasn’t operating, but the guys at Harrisons tell us they’ve sorted that and it can now install local maps.

The cabin in the Effie is so wide my elbow didn’t reach the windowsill while driving, and it’s the only one in this trio like that. The exterior mirrors are huge and power-adjustable, and slide out (motorised) for towing visibility. The rear seat backrest is still a bit too upright, but it’s more comfortable than any Asian ute.

PRACTICALITIES THE Yanks love big and bold towing hooks, and the F-250 has a pair of fat chrome ones up front – there’s nothing at the back of the truck, except for the receiver for the tow hitch. The Lariat’s chrome wheels are wrapped in 275/65R20 tyres, so don’t expect to find a replacement at your average outback service station. That said, there are plenty of options available in that size from the US.

Under that massive hood (that’s bonnet to you and me) the V8 engine takes up most of the real estate, with no room for a second battery. The air intake is behind the off-side front headlight, while the air cleaner can be serviced without tools. The F-250 carries 140 litres of diesel in its tank.

Handy inclusions in the tray are a fold-out bed-extender that allows you to drive with the tailgate down and retain goods in the tray, and a clever fold-out step with a lever post to help lard-arses haul themselves up into the back.

SUMMARY THE F-250 Lariat is as big and brash as they come! Its V8 engine might only be a tad bigger than the others here, but it makes the most grunt and you can feel that behind the wheel. It used 21.93L/100km of diesel on test to be the thirstiest of the trucks, but it did more towing than the others as it pulled our car trailer to and from Werribee. The Effie feels the most comfortable off-road, with its supple chassis allowing the wheels and tyres to crawl over rough terrain for a more controlled ride.

That same chassis provided the only blemish on the Effie’s performance, with the aforementioned tendency to bump-steer in the front end, which was evident on rough highways. This does become tiresome on longer drives, and let’s face it: these trucks are made to cover the miles.

The fit-and-finish in the cabin is as good as any Australian-made Ford, and the quality of the left-to-right conversion gave us no reason to think it’s anything but top-notch. Harrison F-Trucks backs its new vehicles up with a full four-year/130,000km warranty, with premium roadside assistance for three years.

SPECS Engine V8 diesel Capacity 6.7-litre Power 328kW @2800rpm Torque 1166Nm @ 1600rpm Gearbox 6-speed auto 4X4 System part-time, dual-range Construction separate chassis; 4-door ute Front suspension live axle on coil springs Rear suspension live axle on leaf springs Tyre spec LT275/65R20 Kerb Mass N/A Payload 1900kg* Towing capacity 4500kg* Seating capacity Five Fuel tank capacity 140 litres ADR fuel claim N/A Test consumption 21.93L/100km *Subject to state laws and licencing regulations

GMC SIERRA DENALI 2500

GMC is the truck brand for General Motors, and the Sierra is basically a Chevrolet Silverado with a different face. Denali is the upper-spec range, so it adds more bling and safety features, but the chassis and drivelines are the same between the two trucks. Performax, who converted and supplied this truck, told us that a Silverado built to the same spec would sell for around $2K less than the Denali’s $152,000.

DRIVELINE & CAPACITIES THE GMC Denali and the Silverado both use GM’s Duramax 6.6-litre turbo-diesel V8 mill. Forget that Holden borrows the Duramax brand for its small Italian-made diesel engine – this V8 is the real Duramax deal. 1037Nm and nearly 300kW might be a tad short of the Ford’s figures, but the GMC wants for nothing. It will still haul an 8.0-tonne trailer or carry a 1.6-tonne payload, but, like the Ford, these are down-rated to a 4.5-tonne GVM to allow Aussie drivers to operate it on a regular licence.

The Duramax is backed by a six-speed auto transmission from heavy-duty driveline experts Allison. It has a towing mode, as well as an exhaust brake, to help slow the beast when towing down steep grades. It also makes you sound like a real truck driver! The rear axle in the Denali has an auto-locking differential from Eaton, while ETC is part of the chassis electrics package.

CHASSIS & HANDLING WHILE these three heavy-duty pick-ups may appear to be built to the same formula, they each feature different underpinnings. The GMC rides on a separate ladder chassis and, like the F-250, features a live rear axle on an HD leaf spring pack. However, it differentiates itself from the other two by using an independent front suspension design with torsion bar suspension. This is more like the one-tonne utes we’re familiar with here, although most of those have now ditched torsion bars in favour of coil springs.

The IFS gives the GMC a more controlled and less truck-like ride and demeanour on-road, with less kick-back through the steering and a sharper feel. For anyone not accustomed to driving large, live-axled trucks, the IFS-equipped GM products will be the easiest to adapt to.

OFF-ROAD WITH IFS, we expected the Denali to struggle on our off-road climb, but it didn’t disappoint. While not as supple as the Ford, the Denali climbed with confidence, its locking rear end pushing the truck onward and up. The rear axle also has plenty of articulation, which helped its cause, keeping those big 20-inch tyres driving. This particular vehicle is privately owned and the owner has fitted Goodyear All-Terrain tyres and Rancho shock absorbers, which would have helped it. The pair of LED light bars up front are also owner-fitted.

TOWING THE Duramax V8 develops a deep-throated snarl under load, and it hauled our car and trailer up the Brisbane Ranges with aplomb. The independent front end of the GMC gave it the best handling under load, and the six-cog Allison tranny joined in to help the Denali haul confidently and comfortably. The tow setting on the transmission, along with the exhaust brake, made the descent a cinch.

CABIN AND ACCOMMODATION THERE’S no denying the size of the cabins in these trucks, and the GMC is large and luxurious. Heated and cooled power-adjustable seats, plenty of storage options, heated steering wheel and dual-zone climate control – there’s nothing missing from the Sierra Denali.

Something we don’t see in smaller utes are adjustable pedals, and all three of these trucks have electric adjustment to bring the pedals closer to, or further from, the driver’s seat.

This Denali is fitted with the optional Driver Safety Alert Package, which is a no-cost option from Performax. It adds lane departure warning and forward collision warning, and the warnings are accompanied by a vibration in the seat base – left cheek if you veer left, right cheek for the right and a warning if you’re approaching an object in front of you. This is the only truck here with that sort of safety technology.

The Denali uses GM’s OnStar system, and Australian maps can be loaded onto it. It also uses Apple CarPlay to sync with your Apple device; the sound pumps out through a Bose speaker system. Soft touchpoints throughout the cabin give the Denali a premium feel.

PRACTICALITIES 265/60R20 Goodyear Wranglers wrap around big chrome wheels, so it’s not a common tyre size here in Australia. The engine breathes through the offside front ’guard, but the air-cleaner requires a screwdriver to gain access. The owner of this GMC has fitted an aftermarket dual-battery system, with the auxiliary battery mounted in the engine bay.

There are two heavy-duty tow points in the front bumper and a received hitch can be used at the back. The tray has a spray-on bed liner, with four tie-down hooks for securing loads. The step indents in the sides of the rear bumper – to make stepping into the tray easier – are a clever touch. However, they’re not as cool or complex as the Ford’s fold-down step.

SUMMARY THE GMC Denali is the most luxurious and user-friendly of the trucks in this trio. The IFS makes it more manageable on the road, particularly for drivers not used to live-axle trucks, while the fit-and-finish and equipment level inside give it a premium feel. It surprised us with its ability on the off-road hill climb, while out on the road its Allison 1000 transmission felt the best of the group – both when towing and unladen. Consuming 17.18L/100km during our test, the GMC was the most frugal of the trio.

Performax backs its vehicles with a four-year/120,000km factory-backed warranty, which includes 24-hour roadside assistance on new vehicles.

SPECS Engine V8 diesel Capacity 6.6-litre Power 298kW Torque 1037Nm @ 1600rpm Gearbox 6-speed auto 4X4 System part-time, dual-range Construction separate chassis; 4-door ute Front suspension IFS with torsion bars Rear suspension live axle on leaf springs Tyre spec LT265/60R20 Kerb Mass N/A Payload 1145kg Towing capacity 4500kg* Seating capacity Five Fuel tank capacity 136 litres ADR fuel claim N/A Test consumption 17.18L/100km *Subject to state laws and licencing regulations

RAM LARAMIE 2500

RAM broke away from the Dodge brand some years ago to become its own entity, while the trucks are still built by Chrysler in the USA. The Dodge RAM nameplate goes back for decades and is a staple of the American truck market.

American Special Vehicles (ASV) is a division of Ateco who, among other brands, also bring Warn winches to Australia. The left-to-right conversion and engineering is carried out by the Walkinshaw Group, which includes Holden Special Vehicles. ASV is currently selling only the high-specification RAM Laramie crew-cab 4×4 model in Australia, in 2500 or heavier-duty 3500 guise.

We’ve got the 2500 here in line with the others’ offerings, and it’s the lowest priced truck in the trio at $139,500.

DRIVELINE & CAPACITIES THE RAM might be the only non-V8 engine here but its in-line six-cylinder donk gives nothing away in capacity, coming in at a massive 6.7 litres. It’s the mid-runner for output, pushing out 1084Nm from the Cummins-branded engine. The transmission is a six-speed auto, while 4×4 is part time with shift-on-the-fly and low range – just like the other two.

The RAM has Tru-Lok diffs front and rear, which are an auto-locking design. ASV’s Australian models are already de-rated from the US specs to a maximum 4500kg GVM, to accommodate local licences. That means a 913kg payload and 3500kg towing on a 50mm ball (4500kg on 70mm ball, or 6989kg on a Pintle).

CHASSIS & HANDLING THE RAM 2500 bolts to a ladder-frame chassis like the other two trucks – it has live axles front and rear like the Ford, but unlike the truck-like leaf springs under the first two, the RAM rides on coils at each corner. We expected that using coils might make the RAM softer and more compliant in its ride, but the opposite proved the case.

The very stiff RAM suspension provided a sometimes jittery ride, and handling was very flat. You can feel it has been sprung to carry a load, which was reflected in its towing performance.

In its left-to-right steering conversion, ASV has taken the steering box from the left and moved it to the right, but placed it on the outside of the chassis rail just like another Chrysler product – the Jeep Wrangler.

OFF-ROAD THE stiffness of the RAM’s suspension was felt on the off-road track, where it bucked like a bronco over the bumps and bounced off-line. It was never challenged for grip, but it was bouncing over rocks rather than crawling over them, which made the job a lot harder than it needed to be. The tyres on all the trucks were left at road pressures throughout the test; dropping them might have helped the RAM’s performance.

TOWING THE RAM was the most surprising performer on the towing hill climb. It was the only truck equipped with a multi-link coil-sprung rear end, however it was the most solid rear end – its bum barely moved when the trailer was hitched to it. A towing capacity of a little less than seven tonnes is still nothing to be sneezed at!

The six-cylinder Cummins lets out a truck-like growl under load and has an impressive spread of power and torque. The engine brake did an awesome job of holding back the loaded truck on the descent, and it had the tranny down-changing early to make the most of the Cummins’ compression braking power. It sounded awesome as well!

CABIN AND ACCOMMODATION ANYONE who has driven a Jeep Grand Cherokee will feel at home in the RAM. The centre stack, Uconnect system, steering wheel and gauge cluster are all very similar (if not the same parts), there’s just a lot more real estate around them in the RAM. In that regard it was pretty easy for us to get acquainted with.

Like the other trucks here, the RAM Laramie has all the luxury mod-cons: climate control; heated and cooled seats; sat-nav with local maps; heated steering wheel; power pedal adjustment; and primo audio. None of these trucks are lacking in the features department! Considering they are all so highly specced, it was surprising that the RAM is the only one with keyless entry and start.

The RAM’s also the only one with the ability to carry six passengers, as the console folds up to reveal a centre seat in the front. The console bins in all of them could house a small family, though!

One annoying thing is that the park brake is a foot pedal on the right-side kick panel in the footwell – and when you stop the car you generally have your right foot on the foot brake, so it requires a change of habit to get used to.

PRACTICALITIES THE RAM has the most practical wheel and tyre package with its LT265/70R18 Michelins. They mightn’t look as flash as the big chrome 20s, but they’re more resistant to damage than the low-profile jobbies.

Again, there are two big tow-loops up front and a receiver hitch at the back. The air intake is through the front ’guard and requires a screwdriver to open the air box. There are two batteries in the engine bay.

The huge tray has a spray-on protective lining and four tie-down hooks. A nifty trick here is that up near the cargo area light, a camera displays the cargo bed on the Uconnect screen and lets you know if the load is moving around or your dog has jumped ship.

The RAM has a 117-litre diesel tank and, like all of these trucks, the engine runs SCR/DEF to cut emissions.

SUMMARY AMONG our trio of trucks the RAM looked the smallest, but that was just an illusion created by the dark colour and the styling of the front, which isn’t as brash as the Ford’s or GMC’s. It’s still a big truck, and with the bench front seat has the highest seating capacity here.

It’s also more than $10K cheaper than the other two rigs, which can buy you a lot of accessories. Some upgraded suspension with softer springs might be the go if you’re not going to haul heavy loads all the time.

The RAM holds the middle ground in performance and in the way it towed, but the six-cylinder Cummins engine proved relatively thirsty at 21.35L/100km.

ASV backs its RAMs with a three-year/100,00km warranty, with roadside assistance.

SPECS Engine I6 diesel Capacity 6.7-litre Power 276kW @ 2800rpm Torque 1084Nm @ 1600rpm Gearbox 6-speed auto 4X4 System part-time, dual-range Construction separate chassis; 4-door ute Front suspension Live axle on coil springs Rear suspension Live axle on coil springs Tyre spec LT265/70R18 Kerb Mass 3577kg Payload 913kg Towing capacity 4500kg* Seating capacity Six Fuel tank capacity 117 litres ADR fuel claim N/A Test consumption 21.35L/100km *Subject to state laws and licencing regulations

THE BEST PICK-UP

IN THIS test we’re not only comparing three auto manufacturers, but we’re testing three different left-to-right steering conversions and adaptations to Australian specifications. All the conversions are top-notch, using new one-piece RHD dashboards and specifically manufactured steering components.

However, there are still signs of the conversions if you look for them. Things like the placement of the park brake pedal, or the switches for the seat heaters that have the passenger’s seats on the right – little things that don’t blemish the excellent work these companies are doing.

Each of these three trucks have their good and not-so-good points, so, as is often the case, it will come down to what vehicle feels right, and what deal works best, for you. However, as these are specialised vehicles, don’t expect to find the same kind of discounting you would with mainstream cars.

The F-250 has the best-performing engine and felt the best off-road. It also made easy work of the towing, but it was let down by annoying bump-steer.

The Cummins-powered RAM is the lowest-priced truck here and gave nothing away to the V8 in terms of performance or towing. Its conversion feels the most OE of the group, although the placement of that park brake is frustrating.

The GMC is the best all-rounder and has the most up-spec equipment level in its spacious cabin. The IFS front end makes it more relaxed to drive on-road and it didn’t hold the Denali back off-road.

Its horses for courses, and these trucks all delivered plenty of horses from under their big hoods. So it’s best to corral each of them and find the right one for you and your budget.

NOT ALL Prados are mechanically identical, and that’s not just due to the difference between diesel and petrol engines, or the availability of a manual gearbox with the diesel. More expensive VX and Kakadu models come with Toyota’s Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System (KDSS), a feature not fitted to, or available with, the GX and GXL models.

For on-road driving, KDSS lessens body roll for flatter and sportier handling, yet it also provides more wheel travel for superior performance in rough off-road terrain. It does this by automatically adjusting the tension on the suspension’s sway bars (also called anti-roll bars).

The trouble is: the cheapest way to get KDSS is on the $73,990 VX. That’s a $12,000 ask over the best-selling GXL auto – the closest non-KDSS Prado to a VX. However, you get more than just the KDSS when you step up to a VX from the GXL (see VX Upgrades breakout).

While we have driven every spec-level Prado, from GX to Kakadu, we have never had the chance to compare a non-KDSS Prado against a KDSS-equipped Prado to see the difference KDSS makes. To this end, we have lined up a GLX and a VX.

We chose the VX over the more expensive Kakadu due to the Kakadu having features such as height-adjustable rear suspension and variable dampers that would throw unwanted variables into the mix. We also chose a GXL auto, as the VX is auto-only. The only variable we couldn’t control is that the GXL comes with 17s, while the VX runs with 18s.

THE THEORY

TO UNDERSTAND KDSS it’s best to start with what a sway bar is and what it does. In essence, a sway bar is just a torsion-bar spring that connects opposite wheels across either axle. It increases the suspension’s roll stiffness independent of spring rate, so it provides flatter handing without unduly compromising ride quality.

A sway bar isn’t a necessary part of a suspension system, and for an off-road vehicle where wheel travel is paramount, it’s not what you want.

The first-generation Range Rover (1970), the 4×4 that pioneered all-coil, long-travel, live-axle suspension, wasn’t fitted with sway bars for most of its quarter-century-long production life. The end result was extremely supple long-travel suspension that worked brilliantly off-road. However, there was a fair degree of body roll when driven hard through corners and, as more and more people bought their Range Rovers purely for on-road use, there was public demand for a flatter-handing vehicle, which was achieved by fitting sway bars. Unfortunately this also diminished the Range Rover’s legendary off-road ability.

This compromise between off-road wheel travel and on-road handing is, of course, one of the classic design dilemmas of a modern 4×4 that’s expected to perform well both on- and off-road.

One solution is to manually ‘disconnect’ the sway bar(s) for off-road use and then reconnect it for on-road use. Up-spec variants of Nissan’s GQ Patrol have a mechanical release for the rear sway bar operated via a lever in the cab, while the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon has an electro-mechanical release for the front sway bar operated via a dashboard switch.

The other solution is to have some means to vary the tension on the sway bars – softer for off-road; firmer for on-road – which is exactly what KDSS does.

With KDSS, one end of each sway bar is connected to the chassis via an hydraulic cylinder, rather than being directly attached to the chassis. These two cylinders, one at the front and one at the rear, are then connected via hydraulic lines that allow an exchange of hydraulic fluid between the two.

When the vehicle is cornering on-road and tries to lean over, the pressure from the front and rear cylinders is cancelled out, which doesn’t allow an exchange of fluid between the two. With the ends of the sway bars locked solid, the sway bars then have to twist – as they do in a conventional suspension – to suppress body roll.

In an off-road situation, where rough ground will have the wheels on one side of the vehicle travelling in opposite directions, fluid can flow between the two cylinders. This relaxes the sway bars for greater wheel travel. On the Prado’s rear axle, KDSS increases wheel travel from 465mm to 565mm (more than 20 per cent).

The other benefit of being able to relax the sway bar for off-road use is that a stiffer sway bar can be employed in the first place on the VX, which leads to flatter on-road handing.

KDSS, as fitted to the Prado, has some minor electronic control on what is otherwise a simple hydro-mechanical system. The first-generation KDSS, as fitted to the Land Cruiser 200, is purely hydro-mechanical with no electronic override.

KDSS came about after Toyota purchased the rights to Kinetic Suspension Technology, a Western Australian company specialising in off-road suspension.

THE RESULT

SO, HOW well does it work? Surprisingly well, in fact. And while we have always been aware of the difference KDSS makes, it was illuminating to drive these two back to back.

Jumping from the GXL to the VX on-road, you could instantly feel the flatter handing, the shaper turn-in and the better body control. The VX is also noticeable smoother when entering corners and when transitioning from leaning over to an upright stance. The KDSS-equipped VX is a noticeably crisper and sportier on-road drive than the non-KDSS GXL. Some of the benefit here comes from the VX’s 18s, but the critical difference, namely the reduced sidewall height, is only in the order of eight per cent, so it’s not a significant amount.

Off-road, especially in broken and rough ground, the VX feels suppler and is certainly more capable with all the extra travel. In mud and sand, where travel isn’t so much the issue, the benefit lessens.

The sad part of this tale is the price hike from a GXL auto ($61,990) to the VX ($73,990). However, you do get plenty of worthwhile kit with the VX – unlike the more expensive Kakadu, which includes add-ons with little value.

It’s just a shame KDSS isn’t fitted to the popular GXL, or at least offered as an option on the Land Cruiser 200 GXL diesel.

VX UPGRADES

IF YOU go for a Prado VX over a Prado GXL, you get 18-inch alloys (instead of 17s); leather trim; heated front and second-row seats; electric seat and steering wheel adjustment; power-fold third row seating; auto headlights and wipers; a 17-speaker premium audio system; front parking sensors; and, of course, KDSS.

LAND ROVER’S ACE

LAND Rover’s Discovery II (1998) offered ‘active’ sway bars, called Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE), on some models. ACE used a high-volume, high-pressure pump and hydraulic rams, placed between the chassis and the sway bars, to tension or relax the sway bars depending on whether the vehicle was travelling straight or around a corner.

When travelling straight, the hydraulic rams placed no resistance on the ends of the rollbars, which gave the effect of not having a rollbar at all. Once the vehicle entered a corner the hydraulic rams tensioned the sway bars by an amount proportional to the vehicle’s lateral acceleration, as measured by two accelerometers. In essence, ACE is a more complex (pump-driven) version of Toyota’s KDSS system. It came out nearly 10 years before KDSS first appeared on the then-new Land Cruiser 200, in 2007.

NISSAN’S HBMC

CLOSER to the original Kinetic Suspension Technology (developed in Western Australia), is Nissan’s Hydraulic Body Motion Control (HBMC), as used on the Y62 Patrol.

This fully independent suspension system does away with mechanical sway bars by using interlinked, active dampers. By pumping hydraulic fluid from one side of the vehicle to the other – managed by electronically controlled, nitrogen-charged accumulators – the suspension travel can be adjusted to limit body roll when cornering on-road, or maximise the wheel travel for off-road use. The system works brilliantly.

PRICES

Prado GXL (auto): $61,990* Prado VX: $73,990* *Prices do not include on-road costs.

[specs]

TOYOTA PRADO 2.8D Engine: DOHC 16-valve 4-cyl turbo-diesel Capacity: 2.8-litre (2755cc) Power: 130kW @ 3400rpm Torque: 450Nm @ 1600-2400rpm Gearbox: six-speed auto 4×4 system: full-time dual-range Crawl ratio: 36.1:1 Construction: separate chassis Front suspension: independent/coils Rear suspension: live axle/coils GXL wheel/tyre spec: 265/65R17 112S VX wheel/tyre spec: 265/60R18 110H Kerb mass (full range): 2150kg-2435kg GVM: 2900kg Payload (full range): 465kg-750kg Towing capacity: 2500kg Seating capacity: seven Fuel tank capacity: 150 litres ADR fuel claim: 8.0L/100km On-test consumption: 10.4L/100km Touring range*: 1392km *Based on test consumption and 50km ‘safety margin’.

THIS PRODUCT, the name of which is so evocative of Australia’s past, is actually from Africa.

The background is quite interesting: In the mid-1990s, environmentalist Ken Hall designed a cooker so that villagers could use dried corn cobs for fuel. Wood supplies were scarce, but there was an abundance of corn cobs in the village as maize was the staple diet.

The cookers evolved into the simple but technologically sophisticated, ecologically friendly and attractive product of today. Time magazine recognised its significance by naming it one of the 30 most important inventions of 2001.

The Cobb is handy both at home and in the bush, and with an increase in campsite restrictions, and a lack of firewood at some campsites, campfires are not as common as they used to be. This is likely to continue and it makes the Cobb an ideal replacement for gas bottles, stoves, camp ovens, frying pans and so on.

The whole unit, in its strong carry bag, is 30cm in diameter and a little over 30cm tall. Considering fuel can be carried inside the Cobb, it is an effective use of space in a vehicle. With the increasing popularity of smaller cars, and the huge amount of outdoor gear people typically pack, the Cobb’s size is important.

When it comes to doing what it’s designed to do, the Cobb has plenty of cooking ‘bang for your buck’. The Cobb can grill, fry, boil and even smoke food. It comes into its own as an oven, and it’s much easier to use than the traditional camp oven.

It can also be used as a stove, while a frying pan is available as an accessory and can be used instead of the standard grill. Last but not least, with appropriate care, it can be used as a heater simply by removing the lid and grill. Plus it’s good for the environment.

To get the Cobb cooking, three to four firelighters and the recommended number of heat beads need to be placed into the fire-well, which is surrounded by a moat (of water).

Light the firelighters and wait for the beads to ‘whiten’, and then attach the grill. Now you’re ready to add food. Don’t forget to put water in the moat, and never put the lid on without there being food on the grill.

We used four heat beads and when the fuel went white we put on the juicy leg of lamb, which cooked in the planned two hours.

The damper took 75 minutes, which was 15 minutes longer than expected. But be sure to check after 40 minutes, as a damper often needs to be turned.

There are two booklets that come with the cooker with instructions, hints and recipes. They are simple instructions, but it’s very important to read them.

Potatoes, pumpkins and carrots can be cooked on the plate directly, as can greens in a foil packet. Vegetables can also be cooked in the moat. We prefer to cook the hard vegetables on the plate and the greens separately, but this is a personal choice.

The cookers are available from a wide variety of camping and outdoor stores, while Snowys Outdoors in Adelaide often has demonstrations. There is a gimbal-mount attachment available for boats, but this was not available locally or on the internet at the time of writing.

The RRP is about $220-230, which is good considering ours was $199 nearly 10 years ago. Add a casserole dish, frying pan and billycan – and perhaps a gas ring – and you could have all the cooking essentials needed to travel around Australia.

Maybe we will try that on our next trip instead of the mound of cooking gear, including five camp ovens, we usually carry.