A SUNRISE coloured the sky fiery orange behind Hinchinbrook Island, accentuating the silhouette of the steep mountains of Australia’s largest island national park.
This article was first published in 4×4 Australia’s April 2011 issue.
It was the start of another beautiful day in the friendly town of Cardwell, the gateway to Hinchinbrook Island. After our epic adventure through the Gulf Savannah from Borroloola in the Northern Territory to Georgetown in Queensland, it was a dramatic change in scenery.
From vast and dry savannah woodlands to lush tropical rainforest and beautiful beaches; it is easy to figure out why this part of Australia is called the Great Green Way. Our starting point was Cardwell, the first port to be settled in north Queensland.
The town’s history is preserved in the post office and telegraph station, which was built in 1870 and includes the old courthouse and gaol. You can make a number of day trips from Cardwell. An outing to Murray Falls is definitely not to be missed.
The roads are sealed, apart from the last 5km, and it is an enjoyable 45-minute drive past sugarcane fields and farms. The 300-metre river boardwalk takes you to two viewing platforms from which you can see the picturesque 30m drop.
There is a beautiful and shady campground close to the falls with easy access for camper trailers and caravans. Facilities include toilets, barbecues, picnic tables and taps as well as rubbish bins. This campground is packed over Christmas and Easter, when everyone wants to be close to the river to stay cool during the hot and humid wet season.
We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the Murray Falls campground and so did the kookaburras, because one of them managed to steal one of the kids’ peanut butter sandwiches! There used to be an adventurous day trip to Blencoe Falls, but recently the road to the falls was closed, with vehicle access now limited to the road out of Mt Garnet along the Savannah Way.
You can go to Hinchinbrook Island and try the Thorsborne Trail for an adventure of a different kind – a 32km walking trek that traverses the island’s east coast. To minimise human impact, only 40 people (in groups of up to six) are allowed on the track at any given time.
The trail is recommended for fit and experienced bushwalkers who are self-sufficient. A minimum of four days and three nights is required. On your way back to Cardwell, take the turn-off to Edmund Kennedy National Park. This park has tropical rainforest running right down to the beach.
Three kilometres of good walking tracks meander through mangroves, coastal rainforest, open forests and woodlands. As inviting as the water might look, crocodiles and box jellyfish make swimming unsafe. The park is named after explorer Edmund Kennedy, who was part of three explorations.
During his last journey to Cape York, he was speared by a group of hostile Aborigines. His Aboriginal guide, Jacky Jacky, held Kennedy in his arms until he died. Their supply ship was waiting for them only 36km away.
Every first Monday in May there is a Coral Sea Battle commemoration with dignitaries from the US and Australia attending to pay tribute to those who took part in the air and sea battle 800km off the coast. The Allied victory helped ensure the safety of Australia.
Make sure you head out on the Cardwell Forest Drive to visit Cardwell lookout. This 6km trip has short sections of unsealed road and you can choose to only visit the viewing platform with commanding views of Cardwell and the coastline.
If you don’t mind a steep climb, it is well worth doing the bushwalk to the other three lookouts, Hinchinbrook Channel, Hinchinbrook Island and Rockingham Bay. The views are phenomenal. The 26km Cardwell Forest Drive heads inland and takes you to Attie Creek, Dead Horse Creek and Spa Pool.
After the wet season these creeks flow and make for beautiful swimming spots, but during the dry there is hardly any water; it was also a bit of a challenge to find Attie and Dead Horse creeks due to a lack of signs.
There are plenty of other tracks along the drive that call for further exploration if you fancy some adventure; take care with navigation to avoid becoming lost. If you want a refreshing swim only 7km from Cardwell, drive out to Five Mile Swimming Hole and you will not be disappointed.
Even during the dry there is plenty of water in the creek and it’s so clear you can see the bottom. There are toilets and barbecues for a family picnic lunch, but camping is not allowed. Did I mention the fishing? Just about any kind of fishing experience is available, and the inland boat ramps make access easy.
Cardwell has a reputation for mud crab and the Hinchinbrook Channel is a fisherman’s haven with mangrove-lined creeks and inlets sheltering all kinds of sea creatures. If you are fortunate, like we were, you might even spot a dugong.
Port Hinchinbrook has a world-class marina at the southern end of town with waterfront dining and accommodation, and is also the place to go for boat trips to Hinchinbrook Island and the Great Barrier Reef. After the hustle and bustle of Cardwell we decided to seek solitude in the tropical rainforest of Broadwater State Forest.
Coming from Cardwell there is a turn-off 3km south of Ingham and from there it is 46km to the campground, with only the last 16km unsealed. It is an interesting drive that takes you past cane fields and at the right time of year you will see the cane trains and the impressive harvesters.
Suddenly, you leave the cane fields and find yourself driving through pine plantations with pockets of rainforest. There are lots of interesting-looking off-road tracks, but unfortunately they are all closed to the public, most likely because the pine plantations are privately owned.
As you get closer to the campground at Broadwater, there is more rainforest and a number of one-lane concrete causeways with sparkling water flowing in the creek. The campground is simply beautiful; a tropical rainforest retreat for campers, with flush toilets, cold showers, taps, picnic tables, barbecues, fireplaces and a place to get rid of your rubbish.
The birdlife is amazing, and nearby Broadwater Creek is a great place for swimming. The sites are spacious and give lots of shade and privacy. It is a fantastic place for kids, with ample space to run around in and ride a bike. After setting up the camper trailer we spotted our first goanna, which hid from us by climbing a tree.
The bush turkeys ran around everywhere, but were wild enough that they stayed away from our tent. Kookaburras perched on a branch overlooking our tent just in case we dropped some food. The kids also spotted a couple of wallabies and Chris almost put his tripod on top of a long copper-coloured snake that was curled up under tree roots close to the creek.
From there, we made a day trip to the World Heritage-listed Wallaman Falls, Australia’s longest permanent sheer-drop waterfall, spilling 305m into a sparkling rock pool. The 55km drive (one way) is sealed most of the way, with good gravel for the last 10km. Most travellers make the 51km trip from Ingham.
The road to Wallaman Falls is very steep and windy with stunning views of the surrounding countryside; towing a caravan is not recommended. A breathtaking sight, the falls can be viewed through a rainbow-fringed cloud of early morning mist or, for a different viewpoint, a strenuous 4km return track leads to their base.
If you don’t want to make the trip down, you can walk 300m to the lookout over the Herbert River valley, which is well worth it. There is also a campground 2km from the lookout, but it only caters for walk-in camping. Facilities include toilets, cold showers, taps, picnic tables and barbecues.
The absence of rubbish bins is a reminder to take your trash out with you. From Wallaman Falls, you can drive to Mt Fox, a dormant volcano in Girringun NP, 75km south-west of Ingham. Having erupted violently, the volcanic crater is a spectacle atop the mountain, but it is a climb only for the very fit.
There are no set tracks and experienced walkers can manage the 2km hike to the top and back in around 90 minutes. The well-formed crater is about 10m deep and covered with sparse grasses and stunted trees.
Back at Broadwater campground, we enjoyed a campfire (bring your own wood), which the kids thought was fantastic. The sky was clear, the rainforest was alive with nightlife and we simply sat there and marvelled at the beauty of the place.
Our trip started with a majestic sunrise overlooking Hinchinbrook Island and finished with a campfire under a star-filled sky in the rainforest at Broadwater. The area between Ingham and Cardwell truly is nature’s adventure playground.
THE ANCIENT FORESTS
The Wet Tropics World Heritage Area covers 900,000 hectares and is renowned for the spectacular rainforests that cloak its rugged mountain ranges and sweep down to white sandy beaches and coral reefs. They are the oldest continually surviving rainforests on earth.
The breathtaking, rugged landscape of mountain peaks, deep gorges, fast-flowing rivers and waterfalls is a hotspot for biodiversity and home to many rare and endemic plant and animal species. The Wet Tropics received the highest possible heritage honours when it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1988.
This area contains the largest tract of remaining rainforest in Australia. While the Wet Tropics cover only one thousandth of the Australian landmass, it contains a third of the nation’s marsupials, three-fifths of our butterflies, a fifth of our birds, a third of our frogs, a quarter of our reptiles, two-thirds of our bats and two-fifths of our plant species.
TRAVEL PLANNER
WHERE Cardwell is 160km north of Townsville, in far north Queensland. Ingham is 50km south of Cardwell, along the Bruce Highway.
CAMPING There are four caravan parks in Cardwell and one in Ingham. Bush camping is possible at Murray Falls, Wallaman Falls and Broadwater campground. These campsites must be pre-booked by phoning 13 13 04 or visiting qld.gov.au/camping. Camping fees apply ($5 pp/night). Park facilities include toilets, cold showers, taps, picnic tables, barbecues, rubbish bins. Dogs and generators are not permitted.
WHAT TO TAKE If you intend to go bush camping, bring a shower tent and drinking water.
SUPPLIES AND FACILITIES Cardwell and Ingham have large supermarkets and the main services.
TRIP STANDARD All the main roads are sealed, apart from the last sections to Murray Falls (5km), Broadwater campground (16km) and Wallaman Falls (5km). Murray Falls and Broadwater are suitable for caravans; Wallaman Falls is suitable for camper trailers, but caravans are not recommended.
MAPS AND GUIDES Hema’s North Queensland regional map (or similar). In addition, the Cardwell Reef and Rainforest Information Centre has plenty of maps and leaflets to help you find your way around.
RESTRICTIONS AND PERMITS Permits are required for bush camping at Murray Falls, Wallaman Falls and Broadwater. Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service prefers you to book online before your trip. There is no separate charge for visiting a national park in Queensland.
TIME, patience and exemplary engineering can be a brilliant combo, with this Coyote V8-powered Ford Ranger a perfect example.
Vote for the Ford Ranger Coyote V8 to win 2017 Custom 4×4 of the Year
When you look at this Ranger today you wouldn’t think a couple of years ago it contained a freshly-blown engine, with the owner battling to get any recompense before deciding, instead, to go the full monty and fit a supercharged Ford ‘Coyote’ V8.
“Let’s put a V8 in it” were the words spoken to Gary Coleman of Diesel Leaders when the Ranger first lobbed in the company’s workshop. This was followed by “I want it to look factory-spec too”.
What followed was close to a year – and approximately 300 man-hours of work – before the Ranger’s heart transplant was complete.
VIDEO: Hear this supercharged, V8-engined Ranger howl
The actual fitment of the new bent-eight heart was, surprisingly, relatively straightforward, with only a trimmed radiator mount, newly fabricated engine bay mounts and re-using the engine and gearbox mounts required to drop the engine in. The engine is physically big (albeit light), so there was next to no wiggle room left in the engine bay.
“You can’t lift it up, or lower it, or move it forward or move it back,” Gary said. “It has to sit in the exact spot that it’s in. Move it down, you can’t get the exhaust on, move it up it hits the firewall, move it back the head hits the firewall…” You get the picture.
This juggling act sorted, the next was marrying a Falcon six-speed transmission to the Ranger transfer case – a job few engineering companies were keen to take on, until Rage Engineering came on board. This took a few months and involved digitising the gearbox and then machining a back housing to fit the Ranger’s output shaft into the Falcon gearbox.
A custom exhaust followed – again, a finicky, fine-tolerance job to ensure it ran from the engine to the rear without fouling anything – along with some reshaping of under-bonnet elements (including the air box) and shifting of components. The original Ranger radiator stayed – it is larger than the Falcon equivalent.
This Ranger is a monster by any account (the V8 puts out 344kW on the dyno) but is still able to head out bush. Heavy-duty springs matched with Bilstein dampers combine with chunky 35×12.50R20LT Nitro Grappler M/T tyres (fitted to KMC Wheels XD820 satin-black rims) to keep the Ranger high off terra firma.
Further underbody mods include a massive Rhino 4×4 aluminium bash plate and rock sliders.
The front bar is a Rhino 4×4 Evolution 3D winch jobbie, which looks factory-fit and is a mix of 3mm and 5mm steel. Two rated recovery points, wheel arch flares and an F150 Raptor grille finish off an awesome engineering feat.
RIGHT now Toyota’s Hilux is Australia’s second bestselling 4×4.
Up until as recently as last year, and for the 11 years before that, it was Australia’s bestselling 4×4. But the Ford Ranger 4×4 has now surpassed it.
Despite the Hilux still being Australia’s number-one bestseller overall – thanks to Hilux 4×2 being well ahead of Ranger 4×2 – Toyota isn’t content. Toyota doesn’t like being ‘number two’, especially anywhere in the 4×4 market, which is its heartland and traditional stronghold.
To address the situation Toyota has shaken up the Hilux range by introducing 10 new models, seven of them 4x4s, and increasing the number of 4×4 models in the overall mix, with 20 of the 31 Hilux variants now being 4×4.
New 4×4 models include the SR+ Dual Cab, which brings alloys wheels and sat-nav in an otherwise mid-spec model, and a Workmate 2.4 automatic, previously only available as a manual.
There’s also four new Extra Cab 4x4s, three of them automatics; marking the first that an automatic transmission has been offered with the Extra Cab. All three new models in the 4×2 range are also automatic, which further highlands the shift away from manuals to automatics that this update brings.
To help make way for the new models, the 4.0-litre petrol V6 has been deleted from both the 4×4 and 4×2 range. Plus, there have been running changes to the suspension and adjustments to the equipment on a number of models.
The SR, for example, swaps more serviceable vinyl floors for carpets and gains downhill assist; all SR5s gain LED fogs and a tailgate lock; dual-cab SR5s gain rear air cabin vents; and SR5+ models gain heated front seats to go with their leather.
To sample the range we have driven a dual cab SR5+ (manual) for a week followed by a dual cab SR+ (automatic), again for a week. The SR+ is a significant model in the range, as the SR always looked more like a base-spec model with its black steel wheels, rather than mid-spec where it was positioned in the range.
It meant buyers wanting alloys had to move up to the top-spec SR5, which brings a less functional smooth-sided tub (no external tie-downs hooks or rails) and a chrome sportsbar instead of a more practical headboard that helps with carrying loads and protects the rear window.
Both these dual cabs, like most in the range, have new suspension dampers all ’round, which make for a more compliant and supple ride then before and further improve this new Hilux’s general road manners, which are far better than the previous generation Hilux. The softer dampers address the criticism that the previous suspension tune was too firm.
As ever, the contrast between the six-speed automatic and the manual transmissions offered with the 2.8-litre diesel is interesting and, while the automatic is certainly the popular choice now, the manual has much to recommend it, not least being the fact it’s more economical. We recorded around 9.0L/100km for the manual and 10.0L/100km for the automatic.
Both the two new six-speeders have two overdrive ratios (fourth is 1:1 in both) and, while the respective fifth and sixth gears in the automatic are taller than the fifth and sixth gears in the manual, the overall gearing is similar given the manual has a taller final drive.
In both cases, “tall” is the word and, if anything, the automatic is a tad too tall for legal-speed highway driving on undulating give-and-take country roads and tends to drop from sixth to fifth and then change back up into sixth, only to repeat the process soon after, too often. If the legal open-road speed in Australia was a bit higher then all would be good, but it’s not.
Despite the engine claiming a maximum of 420Nm with the manual and 450Nm with the automatic, the manual holds the taller gears much better, which makes it a much more enjoyable drive on country roads away from stop-start driving where the automatic is obviously still more convenient. The automatic also feels livelier in town, which may be just the gearing advantage of the torque convertor or perhaps the extra 30Nm.
As ever, the 2.8 is very quiet and refined (another big difference from the previous generation Hilux), with only the Volkswagen Amarok V6 amongst its competitors bettering it in this regard. More grunt would be nice, however, as others in the class, notably Amarok V6 but also Holden Colorado, Ranger and Mazda BT-50, are more muscular, even if the Hilux is both flexible at low revs and quite willing to rev if asked.
This sliced and diced Hilux 4×4 range went on sale early in October and outsold Ranger 4×4 in that month by 322 units; although, in year-to-date sales the Hilux 4×4 is still 1655 units shy of the Ranger – a lot to make up in the remaining two months of the year. It will be an interesting run to the line.
TOYOTA HILUX SR+ DUAL CAB 4X4 SPECS: Engine: 2.8-litre four-cylinder turbo diesel Max power/torque: 130kW/450Nm Gearbox: six-speed automatic 4×4 System: dual-range part-time Kerb Weight: 2120kg GVM: 3050kg Payload: 930kg Towing capacity: 3200kg Towball download: 320kg GCM: 5650kg Fuel tank capacity: 80 litres ADR fuel claim: 8.5L/100km
THE Hummer H3 isn’t your usual base for a modified off-roader, but owner Dean has proved the smallest Hummer ever made can keep up with the big rigs out in the bush – especially once it has copped some serious mods.
Vote for the HSV-powered H3 Hummer to win 2017 Custom 4×4 of the Year
Dean and his wife had owned the H3 for a couple of years before the modification bug bit, mainly as a result of Dean testing the Yank tank off-road and soon realising a few ‘small things’ needed sorting before it could become a legitimate bush tourer.
One of those ‘small things’ was a radical modification: Removal of the standard independent front suspension and replacement with a live-axle setup. The reason was simple, according to Dean.
“I used to take it 4x4ing all the time when it was IFS, but it kept breaking CV joints and front diffs. Things sort of snowballed from there.”
Dean sought the expertise of Matt Kinsela of Kinselas Kustoms, with Matt installing a live-axle setup comprised of a Dana 44 front axle with a custom set of hubs with tone rings to ensure the ABS, traction control and stability control still worked.
The axle was fitted with a set of 80 Series radius arms and a GU Patrol steering box. Then a set of custom 10-inch travel King Shock coilovers (with external reservoir) and hydraulic bump stops were fitted. The ride height jumped three inches as a result and articulation was – as you’d expect – far better than the original IFS front end.
The rear matched this with fitment of 50mm extended shackles and an add-a-leaf system (plus shocks) from The Ultimate Suspension, resulting in three inches at the rear as well. The result was perfect and allowed those big 37-inch Federal Couragia muddies to fit too.
The stock I5 donk was soon flicked for a LS2 V8 – this powerplant pumps out more than 298kW and 550Nm, with the fitment undertaken by Steve Etcell, of Automotive Etcellence.
The process involved custom engine mounts, a lot of work to mesh the transmission with the LS2, and a custom loom from Ultimate Conversion Wiring, along with a new exhaust. Interestingly, the stock ECU was able to communicate with the LS2, with a custom tune added to ensure the engine can cope with on- and off-road duties easily.
Touring mods include an ARB front bar with 10,000lb Warn winch and LED driving lights. Kinsela Kustom scrub bars link the front bar to OEM sliders. A dual-battery setup ensures the Engel fridge/freezer and ARB compressor are always powered, and there’s a rooftop tent up top for those destinations where the van won’t go.
It’s a hell of a lot of work but we reckon the boffins at Hummer would be left in awe by the bush-tough end result.
INFINITI’S facelifted QX80 will go on sale here in the first half of 2018, following its unveiling in Dubai this week.
The luxury 4×4 has a new front end that is sure to be less polarising than the previous iteration and should spur better sales. Infiniti has raised the headlight on the front end to give the big wagon a look that is statelier and less beluga-like than it was in the past.
At $111,000 (current model), the QX80 packs a lot of features for its price. The 298kW/560Nm 5.6L V8 engine which it shares with the Nissan Patrol is a stonking beast and one of the sweetest mills to be found in a 4×4 wagon.
Like the engine, the QX80 shares its 4×4 driveline with the Patrol, so it is a capable off-roader as well, even if the low profile 20-inch tyres, or optional 22s, are less than ideal for the dirt.
Infiniti QX80 Monograph teased
The 2018 QX80 gets further styling updates on top of the new front sheetmetal, as well as more driver aids and tech that again raise the value-for-money package.
There’s no word yet from Infiniti as to whether the price of the 2018 QX80 will change from the current model. Pricing will be announced closer to launch. Whatever the price, the updated looks alone will be worth it.
WELL, my Camp Cook column in 4X4 Australia magazine almost reached its 30th year.
However, all good things must come to an end, and this will be my last column in the magazine (my first was in Issue 51 in April/May, 1988). For my last column, I’ve decided to do my favourite camping recipe, which is always enjoyed and one I do every camping trip.
It’s uncomplicated, great for the camp oven, is a one-pot meal, and tastes fantastic. French in origin, this recipe was kindly given to me by Patrick Biddlecombe, a well-known chef who did a Cape York trip with us many, many years ago.
INGREDIENTS Serves: 4 to 6 18 lamb cutlets (or 8 to 10 lamb chops or steak) 2 onions – sliced 2 leeks – sliced 2 large cloves of garlic – crushed and chopped Salt and pepper to taste Mixed dried lamb herbs Chicken stock powder ½ small cabbage – sliced and thickly chopped 6 large potatoes – sliced (6mm thick) 2 large carrots – peeled and thickly sliced 1 tbsp olive oil 2 cups water
DIRECTIONS Prep time: 10 to 15 mins Cooking time: 30 to 60 mins
- Cut the leek in half (lengthwise) and then slice.
- In the bottom of your camp oven or a heavy-based large pan, arrange half of the onion, leek and garlic.
- Generously sprinkle the lamb herbs (at least 8 to 12 good shakes of the jar), and chicken stock powder (1 to 2 teaspoons), and season with the salt and pepper.
- Lay half of the cutlets/chops on top and then add another layer of onions, leeks, garlic and half the sliced potatoes and carrots.
- Generously season with the herbs, stock powder, salt and pepper.
- Top with remaining cutlets/chops.
- Arrange the cabbage over the top layer of cutlets, then top with sliced potatoes and carrots.
- Season again with herbs, stock powder, salt and pepper, and then add a little oil.
- Pour in two cups of water – just enough in the pan to give it some juice and help steam the meat and vegetables.
- Cover, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for approx 30 to 45 mins, or until the potatoes are cooked and the meat is tender.
- Serve with fresh bread to soak up all the wonderful juices.
You could cut the lamb chops in half (lengthwise) if they are big. I can’t stress enough to be liberal with the lamb herbs, or you won’t get the wonderful flavour! A jar of lamb herb blend is readily available in the spice/herb section of your supermarket.
If unavailable, use a combination of dried rosemary, marjoram, oregano, mint and basil leaves.
WEBSITE OF THE MONTH
For the final website I couldn’t go past putting up our own website, where you’ll find lots of recipes we’ve accumulated over many years of camp cooking. www.guidebooks.com.au/recipes.htm
SIGNING OFF
IT HAS been a pleasure to share my knowledge of camp cooking and recipes with readers over all these years, and I hope readers tried and enjoyed many of the recipes I passed on.
While there won’t be any more recipes in the magazine, I’ll continue to put up new recipes here. I’ll also post regularly to Facebook.
If you’ve enjoyed my recipes, don’t forget that you can find lots more great recipes in both my cookbooks: Viv Moon’s OUTDOOR Cookbook and Viv Moon’s TRAVELLER’s Cookbook. Both are available directly from this website: www.guidebooks.com.au
AS BILL, the owner of this trick, tough bright orange Rubicon will affirm, Jeep Wranglers are popular with off-roaders for one reason: you can pretty much fit anything to these tough pieces of Yank iron and set them up as anything from a hardcore rock-crawler, to an outback tourer, to an off-road all-rounder.
Vote for the Jeep JK Wrangler Rubicon to win 2017 Custom 4×4 of the Year
This is, funnily enough, just what Bill has done with his four-door Rubicon.
Even if you’re not a huge Jeep fan, every four-wheel enthusiast knows just how capable off-road a Rubicon is straight out of the box: front/rear lockers, disconnecting front sway bar, super-low gearing, over-built Dana axles… the list goes on. That doesn’t mean you can’t go further, as Bill’s orange bruiser shows.
He did the sensible thing and headed straight to Aussie Jeep gurus Double Black Offroad (DBOR) who are well-versed in modding Wranglers.
2018 Jeep Wrangler official photos
The suspension underneath the Wrangler is DBOR’s Wild Kit, offering a mighty 4.5-inch lift. This kit also replaces all the suspension links with beefed-up adjustable parts from Synergy Manufacturing, ensuring that when that big lift asks the question, nothing is going to break.
Add in taller coils from Rubicon Express, some awesome Fox remote reservoir 2.0 dampers, and all the additional peripheral mods (lengthened brake lines, extended bump stops and more) and you’ve got a high-riding but still nice-handling off-roader.
It also meant Bill could fit in huge 37-inch BFG KM2 tyres, sensibly wrapping them around Walker Evans beadlock wheels, thus allowing Bill to run the tyres at very low pressures if need be.
Up front a DBOR bullbar sports a waterproof Smittybilt X20 12,000lb winch and Lightforce HID/LED combo HTX230 spotties. Bill also fitted a Daystar hood cowl (with bonnet vents) and an American Expedition Vehicles (AEV) snorkel, all pushing air into an AIRAID air box. (Daystar claims this setup can reduce engine-bay temps by up to 12 per cent.)
There’s also a Smittybilt mesh roof and cargo net for when the Rubicon’s hard roof comes off. At the rear it’s the same built-tough song: An Atlas rear bar relieves the tailgate of that hefty 37-inch spare, helps protect the rear quarter panels, is fitted with two recovery points, and can carry twin 40-litre jerry cans.
The Wrangler’s interior is pretty much stock Jeep, with Bill adding a few tweaks, such as cloth Rubicon seats, upgraded stereo, wash-off rubber mats, and a GME UHF.
With his raft of sensible, well-thought-out modifications, Bill has finished up with exactly what he was after: the ultimate all-rounder.
WHEN it comes to being serious about four-wheel driving, you can’t go past Mark Haffenden.
This was first published in 4×4 Australia’s October 2012 issue.
He lives and breathes it every day. Mark was so enthusiastic about combining his hobby with his day job that he bought well-established Perth training business, Eureka 4WD Training. He loves that he gets paid to pass on his passion to people just starting out on their own personal 4X4 adventure.
Mark has always owned a 4X4. He started out in the UK 25 years ago with the traditional, no-frills, working man’s chariot of choice, the Landie. In testament to their toughness, it was an original 1948 model that he picked up for the tidy sum of £500.
That old Landie allowed Mark the enriching experience of spending all his free time scouring the British mainland in search of parts. While Mark’s mates were chatting to the girls, he was heading down to Shropshire for spares.
Land Cruiser Heritage Museum: World’s best Cruiser collection
After battling around the country to every dealer to get his brakes working he sold the Landie with relief to a collector, who kindly took it off his hands for £2000. After his initial glee at turning such a tidy profit, 21-year-old Mark found out he’d been driving a very rare vehicle and could have held out for £10,000.
In the UK, for Mark the emphasis was having a big tough rig to tow a heavy boat and making sure that you could beat the mud suction on dubious boat ramps. Moving out to Australia he realised it definitely was the lucky country – where you could use a 4X4 for touring holidays, weekend recreation, fishing trips and camping.
Within six months, Mark was gearing up a 1985 70 Series LandCruiser ute. After a few years he switched to a 1989 SR5 HiLux, and then moved into a Holden Jackaroo. Some might think that an unusual choice given his previous vehicles, but Mark was adamant, saying: “The Jackaroo is one of the most under-rated four-wheel drives ever.
That Jackaroo got me everywhere I needed to go and in comfort. Fantastic vehicle.” You see, that’s the key: a vehicle’s real value is its ability to meet your individual requirements and effectively execute the tasks you need done safely and reliably.
Mark now has an awesomely kitted-out 2010 76 Series LandCruiser wagon as the perfect work bus for his training duties and serious off-road adventuring. His first thought was to buy a 200 Series, but the 76 was more practical for training and having lived with it for a couple of years, Mark wouldn’t swap, even if he had the opportunity, as he’s found it to be a very capable vehicle.
Mark likes the 76’s squared-off solid shape and style. While not as plush as a 200, the 76 Series isn’t pretentious when it comes to an honest balance between comfort, practicality and functional capability. In Mark’s opinion, the Cruiser’s V8 is its best feature as it provides an excellent combination of power and torque.
He scratched his head a little about the lack of standardisation of the wheel track front to rear, but the V8 manages to overcome the extra drag in the sand. While he was in re-design mode, Mark reckoned that a sixth gear would be a brilliant addition.
The 76 Series could certainly do with a taller overdrive, because the big V8 doesn’t need to spin that hard to maintain legal cruising speed as easily demonstrated in the 200. For good reason Mark’s kept the driveline standard Tojo.
He optioned up the 76 with a set of factory-fitted twin diff-locks to ensure he can squeeze every last Newton-metre from that lusty V8 to keep the wheels driving in the heaviest terrain going, even if only one wheel has any traction. Not a cheap option out of the factory, but Mark insists that they’re worth every cent as his most important ‘can’t live without’ accessory.
“Fitting later allows you to spread the budget pain but quality aftermarket options are a similar cost so for my requirements ordering out of the factory avoids any possibility of warranty disagreements or discussions over the usage of non-OEM components,” he says.
A black powder-coated winch-compatible ARB bullbar and the standard Toyota factory snorkel were additional dealer-delivered options that saved time and sped up the custom fit-out. The bar provides a home for a neat set of Nane HID spotlights. Also hanging off the bar is a Tiger 12,000lb remote-control winch and UHF aerial.
As the training courses encourage students to get bogged in order to teach them safe recovery techniques, the Tiger winch and properly rated chassis-mounted recovery points regularly prove their worth. Mark always does his research and listens to the professional fitters to avoid too much changing around on his vehicles.
Andrew Fardon of Off Road Equipment, in Perth, has fitted most of the gear on the 76 over the past couple of years. Mark believes the best option is to make a sensible choice up-front and avoid the pain and cost of fitting and removing accessories that are only suited to extreme and rarely-encountered conditions.
Mark’s been very pleased with the performance of his Bluemax two-inch lift kit. While the name may not be the first to come to mind when thinking branded aftermarket suspension, Bluemax has been around for some time. Their staff have many years experience in commercial, heavy-haulage applications.
Given the comfortable ride, good flex and control the 76 demonstrated over several surface types, and what Mark puts his wagon through on a daily basis, we reckon he’s got good reason to smile.
With an already well-positioned underbody driveline layout, twin diff-locks and those couple of extra inches of clearance, Mark’s yet to find a situation he can’t successfully negotiate using the correct technique and commonsense. Mark reckons the standard factory rims look great and his only gripe is that the replacement cost is controlled by Toyota.
He’s upgraded the rubber and is running Kumho 285/75/16 mud tyres for the winter. Given the 76 Series was never considered a benchmark for interior noise suppression, we were impressed that the muddies didn’t seem overly intrusive in the cabin. Any extra noise was negligible and was well worth the aggressive grip in the sloppy stuff.
To ensure maximum travel distance in remote locations a Brown Davis long-range tank is neatly tucked under the rear of the 76 to provide a usable 170-litre capacity when combined with the main 90-litre tank.
A Kaymar dual-wheel carrier relocates the original spare and enables the security in numbers of adding a second spare – plus provides a handy location for a Howling Moon rear rubbish carrier. A solid, heavy-duty Hayman Reese hitch reliably handles any towing requirements.
There’s a Rhino roof-rack to keep extra gear strapped down up top. A Howling Moon awning provides fast one-man set-up for shade when you pull over for a cuppa and some lunch. Checking out the interior, it’s easy to see that Mark’s priorities are comfort, safety and security.
The biggest criticism of the standard vehicle that Mark had, is that the seat is too close to the dash – he’s looking at getting it modified to let himself stretch out and get comfortable on a long drive. Given he’s got a build similar to John Wayne, who’s going to argue?
With comfortable touring obviously a priority, it’s not a real surprise to find that his favourite accessory “without a shadow of a doubt” was the cruise control.
It won’t keep him out of trouble in the rough stuff as the lockers will, but it will make the tedious journey there and back on the blacktop more relaxing knowing the chance of ‘speed creep’, leading to impromptu donations to the police fund, will be kept in check.
While he didn’t describe it as his favourite addition, he’s very fond of his Frontrunner aftermarket centre console. The factory console is very low and provides no place to rest an elbow. The Frontrunner adds the perfect height, and bolts easily onto the factory unit.
It provides nifty hidey-holes, including an inbuilt key-locked safe for extra security. Being rather fond of music, Mark has invested in a Pioneer Mixtrax deck running through a Blaupunkt subwoofer with a Pioneer GMD9500F four-channel amplifier pushing out to six 300W speakers.
In light of all that power-sapping aural stimulus, the Piranha dual-battery system is obviously regarded as a very important addition to the vehicle. Additional entertainment or catching up with the outside world is made possible by running a TV through an 800W inverter.
There are two sets of twin 12V power outlets mounted front and rear so other portable devices can be plugged in.
Mark’s also very pleased with the Outback drawers recently installed by the lads at OL Jandakot – one of the few items that have been replaced on the vehicle as the first set were out of his HiLux and, while perfectly practical in a ute, the old drawers rattled like a cage full of monkeys when located in the cabin.
Mark was very firm about the importance of communications when travelling. In addition to a GME TX3420 remote-head UHF he has a GME High Frequency specifically for remote travel that will be mounted into a soon to be fitted ARB roof console.
When in the vehicle, Mark runs OziExplorer on a nine-inch touchscreen and carries a notebook for mapping out his trips. While a well set-up, well-maintained vehicle allows Mark to travel by himself, he enjoys travelling with a group for company and the chance of a good laugh with his mates.
Mark always carries a satphone in any remote location and has experienced the value of carrying his Hema when heading off for an exploratory bushwalk.
With his instincts telling him to head back to camp completely the wrong way, the GPS saved him a long walk and those mates back at camp would have been especially important if he’d continued to ignore his GPS.
Once he was safely back at camp, we reckon his mates must have given him a right royal ribbing when he told them of his misadventures, no doubt enjoying a pretty good laugh at his expense. Mark loves Karijini National Park and names it as his ultimate, all-time favourite destination.
Having covered almost everywhere in WA and toured extensively throughout Australia, he reckons he can’t go past Karijini as being not just incredibly and indescribably beautiful, but amazingly spiritual – even for those who wouldn’t normally think in terms of mysticism or religious experience.
Upon leaving, he and his mate were surprised to admit that they were saddened to be heading out of the park in a way that was more than just that ‘it was a lovely place to visit, shame our holiday is over’ kind of way.
Other favourites include the Great Victoria Desert, Kennedy Ranges, Steep Point, the Kimberley, Bungle Bungles, plus heading north to the Dampier Archipelago and to the islands off the WA coast.
Mark also loves that the north west offers such a variety of experience: after a surfeit of natural beauty head over to Tom Price and check out the mechanics of locomotives pulling 250 ore-laden carriages across to the ports. The next two destinations he’d like to tick off his list are WA’s Gibb River Road and El Questro.
While Mark has a desk in a standard office building, we could tell he’s delighted that his real office is deep in the heart of the Australian bush – a workplace we’d all love to visit more.
YEP, it’s big, but if your plans include extended touring, plus the ability to tow a large caravan comfortably, you want a sizeable, self-contained rig – and this monster limited edition Black Ops F250 (built by US-based Tuscany Motor Co) fits that bill.
Vote for the Ford F250 Black Ops to win 2017 Custom 4×4 of the Year
When Simon, the owner, took delivery of the Black Ops F250 it was already well kitted-out as ‘standard’. A six-inch lift, twin steering dampers, Road Armor bullbar, 20-inch rims running 37-inch rubber, and an imposing black-on-black colour scheme mean this immense rig (it measures more than six metres in length) is fairly noticeable.
Simon wanted to tweak a few things for touring, so he approached Luke and Rebecca at Outback Customs. The duo didn’t hold back – Luke and Rebecca reckon the huge tray setup is the biggest they’ve ever built.
The process included fitment of a heavy-duty steel tray with improved departure angle and oodles of interior storage; the F250’s size allowed fitment of additional storage areas forward of the rear axle and there’s an additional three-quarter length trundle tray underneath as well.
Simon got clever with the two Jackoff canopies on the rear tray; being independent of each other, he can remove one (or both) when he needs flat cargo space. The front canopy is split into two sections, with an MSA drop-down fridge slide and 12V power on the passenger side.
Also in there are twin lithium batteries and a Redarc management system, plus a 1500W inverter and isolator. And yes, there’s more – a gas hot-water system (with 12V pump) has been squeezed in, with a hose connecting to the under-tray 60-litre water tank. The driver’s side canopy is full of drawers and a barbecue.
The rear cargo box is used for two full-size spares or lugging dogs, wet gear, etc. Up top Simon can switch between a boat-loader and a James Baroud roof-top tent.
With a rig of this size and weight, a top-notch suspension system is a given; adjustable Ride-Rite air suspension (courtesy of Outback Customs) combines with King shocks (featuring a reserve reservoir) at the rear, while the front received King coil-overs with a remote reservoir.
The 20-inch wheelset originally fitted was ditched in favour of 18-inch wheels and 37-inch rubber for a more compliant ride over rough tracks.
Add in the stealth black-out paint job (the F250 was also wrapped in-house with a vinyl wrap to match the powdercoated rear tray), a Baja Designs slim-line LED light bar and Outback Custom rock-sliders to keep the behemoth’s belly out of harm’s way, and you have a seriously awesome mobile outback home.
AWE-INSPIRING gorges, impressive mountain ranges, spectacular waterfalls and wonderful camping grounds make the Gibb River Road an unforgettable experience for anyone travelling deep into the heart of the Kimberley.
This was first published in 4X4 Australia’s July 2012 issue.
It’s amazing to think that Alexander and Matthew Forrest were the first explorers to traverse the Gibb River Road region in 1879 – an epic journey that almost led to their deaths but resulted in the discovery of 25 million hectares of pastoral land. Today the trip across the Gibb River Road isn’t quite as dangerous but good preparation is the key to a safe and enjoyable 4X4 trip.
It is still early in the tourist season when we pack the car and start the long drive up the Red Centre. When we finally reach Kununurra, we’re all ready for a break and the trailer suspension needs to be looked at. While staying at Kimberleyland Holiday Park we hear many colourful stories from keen four-wheel drivers, but for all the wrong reasons.
One family hobbled into Kununurra with broken suspension and had trouble obtaining the right spare parts for their vehicle.
They ended up limping all the way back to Adelaide and having their 4X4 fixed there. Another 4X4 enthusiast used up all his spare tyres within the first 100km and had to rely on a generous traveller lending him yet another spare tyre to make it safely to Kununurra. The tyres were fixed and the borrowed spare tyre was returned along with a slab of beer.
We figure we’d better learn from other people’s mistakes. A local mechanic, Luke Robinson, replaces our front wheel bearings and brake pads. Upon inspection of the trailer, he tells us, “Mate, you’re fortunate to have made it to Kununurra because the trailer leaf-spring hangers and bushes are in terrible condition and need replacing.” Would we have made it to the other end of the Gibb River Road?
Shaking his head, he says, “No way.” The repairs were costly, but the reality is that without them our trip would’ve most likely come to an end in the middle of the Kimberley.
Top 6 dangerous 4×4 river crossing videos
After a week in Kununurra we hit the road, stocked up with groceries and a full water tank, confident that our rig will make the distance. We pay a three-day visit to the Bungle Bungles before heading down the Great Northern Highway past Fitzroy Crossing to the turn-off onto Fairfield-Leopold Road.
Windjana Gorge is our first destination. Our 10-day journey across the Kimberley has begun.
The first stretch of road is badly corrugated but closer to Windjana Gorge it becomes better. We arrive early in the afternoon and pick one of the few shady spots, close to the solar-powered showers and toilets. That night the sun slowly sinks below the horizon while setting the gorge walls alight in a fiery red and orange display – a spectacular sight that is engraved in my memory.
Up at the crack of dawn we are some of the first people to head into the gorge. We know we’re in the right place when Shannon shouts, “Croc! Mum, I see a crocodile!” The two older kids point at the two large crocs which look rather dangerous with their big mouths wide open, ready to swallow their next victim. People don’t go swimming here.
After a relaxing two-day stay we reluctantly leave Windjana Gorge. Our next destination is Manning Gorge, just a couple of kays behind Mt Barnett Roadhouse. It is a relatively short drive to the turn-off onto the Gibb River Road where we take a right.
The road has just been graded and is in excellent condition – this is as good as it gets on outback roads. The drive through the King Leopold Ranges is spectacular with breathtaking views and made easy with the steep sections completely bituminised. The ranges are named after King Leopold of Belgium who was the patron of the expedition by Alexander and Matthew Forrest.
The trip to Mt Barnett Roadhouse takes about four hours and we arrive at the Manning Gorge campground without any trouble. This particular campground is extremely popular because it is very close to the Barnett River where you can go for a refreshing swim. We pitch our tent among the trees and make a run for the river. It is a welcome relief after the long and dusty roads of the last couple of days.
The next morning we gear ourselves up for the hike to Manning Gorge – it is a fairly strenuous 1-1.5 hour walk but well worth it. Shannon and Chantelle walk the entire way and Hannah has the best ride of all – in mum’s backpack.
Manning Gorge is a fantastic place for swimming and we even find a little beach with shallow water for the kids to play in.
Our next destination is Ellenbrae Homestead, which we’re glad to reach after a rocky ride. The camping facilities have been built with whatever was around at the time and bush improvisation takes on a whole new meaning here.
A donkey is used to heat the hot water for the shower and the big bath (which was absolutely fantastic for our three kids) and the camp kitchen has large rocks forming the walls. Everything is in rustic tropical style with plenty of ventilation to keep the place cool.
That night we sit out under a star-filled sky and enjoy the peace of the outback. We’re up early the next morning and treat the kids to the famous Ellenbrae scones – they live up to our expectations.
The drive from Ellenbrae to El Questro Wilderness Park is magnificent. We stop at the lookout and marvel at the impressive Cockburn Ranges in the distance. It’s a great spot for a family portrait.
After a short break we continue along a badly-corrugated road to the turn-off to El Questro. Talk about contrast after the peace and quiet of Ellenbrae. There are 4X4s, camper-trailers and vans everywhere and the shop is so busy it takes us a while to buy a camping permit. We find a big site right next to the river under the shade of a big tree and the kids go wild after sitting in the car for way too many hours.
El Questro is a massive park with many gorges to see, 4X4 tracks to explore and cruises or tours to enjoy. Every visitor has to purchase a Wilderness Park permit and camping fees are payable separately.
They also have safari tents, cabins or a room in the homestead if you don’t want to rough it.
We stay two nights and travel down two 4X4 tracks to explore Pigeon Hole Lookout and Branco’s Lookout. This latter 4X4 track takes you across the Chamberlain River and is a long creek crossing that never seems to end. You certainly don’t want to meet another vehicle along this creek crossing because it is quite narrow and quite deep in one particular spot.
The view from Branco’s Lookout is worth the drive through with Chamberlain Gorge stretching out before you. We complete our visit to El Questro with a soak in the famous Zebedee Springs.
After 10 days on the dirt it is nice to say goodbye to the dust. We are all sad to leave the Kimberley – this wilderness destination is a place to be experienced at least once in your life.