You have just purchased the four-wheel drive you have been dreaming about.
Now you can head to a 4WD shop and load up your rig with all the accessories that will help you in the adventures that lie ahead. Then it’s time to hook up the caravan and leave the hustle and bustle of your previous life behind, without a care in the world.
Or perhaps you’re a tradie with a life’s worth of tools in the back of the dual-cab ute, a rig that doubles as your young family’s adventure machine on weekends. But are you compromising your family’s safety by using an overloaded vehicle?
It’s all too easy to overload your rig with accessories and gear that, if an accident happens, may cause your insurance company to leave you high and dry and deny your claim.
In the words of bushcraft and survival expert Mors Kochanski: “The more you know, the less you carry.”
Prior to taking your new ride on its first big jaunt, it has become customary to head to a 4WD accessory shop and throw the whole cattle dog (and your credit card) at your new machine.
When selecting the necessary bullbar/winch combination, or which rear drawer set-up to install, does the weight of the accessories enter the decision-making process? It certainly should. For the same reasons Formula 1 racecar engineers consider weight and – perhaps more crucially – the placement of that weight, you should consider how the extra weight you’re placing on the vehicle affects overall weight and, importantly, whether it alters the 4×4’s handling.
To get the case study underway, we have chosen two popular 4x4s – Toyota’s 200 Series Land Cruiser and Mazda’s BT-50 (both MY16) – and added typical touring 4WD accessories. Let’s see how they stack up.
LC200 vs BT-50
MODEL
LAND CRUISER 200
BT-50
Kerb weight
2740kg
2118kg
GVM
3350kg
3200kg
GCM
6850kg
6000kg
Towing capacity
350/3500kg
350/3500kg
Front axle load
1630kg
1480kg
Rear axle load
1950kg
1850kg
Loaded with accessories
EQUIPMENT
LAND CRUISER 200
BT-50
Bullbar/lights/winch
100kg
100kg
Roof rack
50kg
40kg
Canopy
N/A
80kg
Hi-Lift/shovel
20kg
20kg
Rear bar dual carrier
80kg
80kg
Rear drawers
40kg
50kg
Fridge/slide
80kg
80kg
Long-range tank
60kg
50kg
Additional fuel
135kg
70kg
Accessory battery
30kg
30kg
Additional wheel
15kg
15kg
LT tyres
55kg
5.5kg
TOTAL ACCESSORIES
665kg
670kg
Kerb weight
2740kg
2118kg
GCM
3405kg
3200kg
GVM
3350kg
-41.2kg
LOAD CAPACITY
+55kg
-412kg
As you can see in the tables above, the LandCruiser is already overweight before you even start to pack the essential items like bacon and beer, or even passengers.
It is important not to underestimate how much extra stuff weighs. Extra weight is your enemy, and any way you can reduce the load (regardless of the GVM upgrade) the better. You will improve fuel economy, reduce maintenance loads, and give the vehicle and its occupants a fighting chance to better enjoy this great country.
For instance, if you go on two trips and something doesn’t get used, get rid of it – unless the piece of equipment is safety-related, such as a first-aid kit or a fire extinguisher.
The next time you’re at a ten-pin bowling alley, grab a couple of the bowling balls – one for each hand – and spin around in a circle with your arms outstretched.
Then try the same thing with both bowling balls held close to your body. Not only will this provide a spectacle for onlookers, but you’ll now have a practical appreciation of the ‘moment of inertia’.
The further away the weight is from the axis of rotation, the harder it is to start and stop. It’s no different cornering in your accessorised 4WD, with most of the weight added to each end of your vehicle. Admittedly, a bullbar mounted between the front and back seats probably isn’t going to be of much use.
The same principle can be applied to 4WD LT (Light Truck) tyres. These tyres will not only be heavier in the sidewall construction, but also a lot thicker and heavier in the crown and shoulder. The added force required to accelerate and brake the additional weight will increase fuel consumption, brake pad and rotor wear, and decrease the service life of components such as wheel bearings.
Adding weight to each end of the vehicle will make a 4×4 pitch more under braking and acceleration, as well as amplify bodyroll. This can actually blow out your stopping distance under heavy braking, as the front brakes are being asked to handle more of the braking duties.
If you’re replacing one of the two tanks in your 4WD with a long-range tank, replace the tank located between the wheels first, as the added weight will have less effect on handling.
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Don’t forget that increasing the height of the centre of gravity won’t help your on-road handling characteristics at all. It will increase bodyroll and extend stopping distances under heavy braking, due to pitching and the related load transfer to the front.
If you have the choice of a quality aluminium or a steel roof rack, the aluminium rack could save you up to 20kg, and when loading vehicles for extended outback touring, the roof rack isn’t the place for heavy items. I’ve seen more than 100 litres of fuel and spare tyres on roof racks. You certainly wouldn’t want to drive an off-camber track like that.
In most 4WDs, the majority of the added weight from accessories and load will be in the rear of the vehicle. In the case of the Toyota 200-series, there’s an additional 300kg with a full 180-litre long-range diesel tank, twin-wheel carrier and drawers! And that’s without a single can or bottle of your favourite tipple.
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When a 4WD has additional weight bias to the rear, it will tend to oversteer. That’s when the rear tries to overtake the front, spinning you around. Most manufacturers design vehicles to be as neutral as possible, before understeering at the limit. Understeer is when the front runs wide, and all you have to do to get it back on line is get off the throttle a little. That’s a lot safer than trying to wrestle an overloaded tourer that looks like it has entered a drifting competition.
Another reason weight distribution is important is tyre load sensitivity. As the weight increases on a tyre, the co-efficient of friction starts to drop off. So, if the rear tyres are supporting more load, they will overload sooner than the front tyres when cornering (as the co-efficient of friction drops off). Before you know it, you’re looking at the same scenery through the windscreen that was in the rearview mirrors moments ago.
As well as an overall weight, vehicle manufacturers will specify an overall weight allowable for each axle. So even if your total weight is under the specified GVM, you may still be over the individual axle’s weight.
In the case of the LandCruiser 200, Toyota has specified a front axle load of 1630kg and a rear axle load of 1950kg, giving a total of 3580kg. This is 230kg over the Land Cruiser’s GVM of 3350kg, so it allows a little uneven loading of the axles without exceeding the GVM.
If you didn’t think it was complicated enough, there are further considerations when towing.
Again, we’ll use the Land Cruiser as an example. If you add the maximum braked towing weight (3500kg) and the GVM (3350kg) together you get 6850kg, which happens to be the GCM (Gross Combined Mass). So at GVM, you’re able to tow the 4WD’s full rating of 3500kg. However, that’s not always the case.
Now, let’s do the sums on the Mazda. Just like the Land Cruiser, it has a braked towing capacity of 3500kg. With a GVM of 3200kg, it gives you a total weight of 6700kg. This is 700kg in excess of the Mazda’s GCM of 6000kg. So you’ll need to strip weight out of the vehicle or tow something lighter.
The Tow Ball Mass (TBM) also affects rear and front axle loads and GVM. When you’re towing 3500kg, with either the Mazda or the Toyota, if your TBM is 350kg you can add that weight directly onto the 4WD’s GVM.
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Moving onto axle loads: Imagine your 4WD as a seesaw – the bullbar is the far seat, the rear axle line is the pivot point, and the tow bar connection is the near seat. Placing a load on the near seat (tow bar) will pivot through the rear axle line and lift some of the weight off the front wheels. Using the Toyota as an example (wheelbase: 2850mm; overhang: 1300mm), let’s look at how much weight you’ll lift off the front of the car.
Additional rear axle load as a result of TBM = (overhang ÷ wheelbase) x TBM. So, in the case of the 200, with a TBM of 350kg you’ll experience a lifting force of 160kg on the front wheels and 510kg of rear axle load (350kg + 160kg). Now that’s a lot for any vehicle to carry.
For towing, it’s better to have a longer wheelbase with a shorter overhang. With less leverage, anything that disturbs the trailer will have less effect on the vehicle.
Before you give up and throw the keys in the bin, there is salvation in the form of a GVM upgrade.
In the case of the LandCruiser, you can install an upgrade that will lift the GVM from 3350kg to 3800kg, giving you a massive payload increase of 450kg. However, it’s not all beer and skittles. The GVM upgrade won’t affect the GCM. So in the case of the Land Cruiser, you’ll now only be able to tow a maximum of your GCM minus the GVM. In the case of the LC200 with a 3800kg GVM upgrade, that’s 3050kg (6850kg minus 3800kg) of towing capacity at the new upgraded GVM.
For new vehicles, it’s best to get your GVM upgrade installed before registration. The kit needs to be a “federal compliance kit” and, unfortunately for DIY types, a GVM upgrade kit needs to be fitted by an Approved Production Facility accredited by DOTARS.
Once the approved kit is fitted, and the compliance plate affixed to the vehicle along with a new tyre placard with revised axle capacities, you’ll be able to drive the car with its revised GVM. The GVM upgrade will be nationally recognised, so there won’t be any problems when it comes time to move the vehicle on.
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For a 4WD that has already been registered, you’ll need to have the vehicle signed off by an engineer (at additional expense) once the kit is fitted. Your 4WD with GVM upgrade will now be able to be driven nationwide. However, as the GVM upgrade is complied at a state level, when it comes time to sell, the upgrade is only recognised in the state where it was complied. If sold interstate, the new owner will need to have the kit recomplied with that state’s road authority.
In the case of the 200, the kit will include new heavy-duty coil springs front and rear, new shocks front and rear, the revised compliance plate, tyre placard, and a KDSS valve adjustment warning decal (where KDSS is fitted).
Nearly all 4WDs could use a little more underbody clearance, so giving your pride and joy a couple of inches of suspension lift at the same time as the GVM upgrade kills two birds with one stone.
Bear in mind, the GVM upgrade won’t make your 4WD invincible. You’ll still need to distribute the load correctly and remember that jumping sand dunes in the middle of the Simpson Desert will bend your chassis just as easily with or without the upgrade.
Be mindful that the overall weight of your rig doesn’t exceed the 4WD’s GVM. Also try and keep the weight as low and as centrally located as possible – if you don’t want to throw handling out the window.
When towing, the tow ball mass will add to your GVM. The leverage created by the distance from the tow ball connection to the back axle will see increased rear axle loads above the tow ball mass and reduced loads on the front wheels that can affect braking and handling.
If you’re driving a wagon with a limited load capacity, a GVM upgrade could be in order. Just bear in mind this won’t increase the GCM and it could compromise the 4WD’s towing capacity.
As you have travelled this great sunburnt country, you’ve no doubt noticed the occasional weighbridge.
Their primary focus is heavy transport, but police and transport authorities have the ability to use this and portable equipment to check your rig for compliance.
There are no specific on-the-spot fines relating to overloaded 4WDs. However, a summons to appear before a magistrate could be imposed, where penalties include a $2000 fine or six months in jail.
Before we delve into the wonderful world of vehicle loading and how it affects legalities and a vehicle’s handling, it’s useful to understand the terms commonly used.
Tare weight
This is the vehicle’s weight with fluids, usually with only 10 litres of fuel in the tank.
Kerb weight
The weight of a rig when it’s ready to drive with full tank/s, an average driver of 68kg (they don’t frequent my souvlaki shop!) and 7kg of luggage. However, tare and kerb weight definitions differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.
GVM
Gross Vehicle Mass is the maximum allowable vehicle weight, including all occupants, accessories and luggage.
GCM
Gross Combination Mass is the total combined weight of your accessorised, fully loaded vehicle and anything you’re towing.
Axle loading
In addition to GVM, vehicles also have a maximum allowable load on both the front and rear axles.
ATM
Aggregate Trailer Mass is the maximum allowable weight of the trailer
you’re towing, as designated by the manufacturer.
TBM
Tow Ball Mass is the weight on the tow ball imposed by the trailer, usually around 10 per cent of the ATM. For a trailer weighing 3500kg, you’ll have a TBM of around 350kg.
Centre of gravity
An imaginary point in the vehicle where you could theoretically balance the whole car on one (very strong) finger.
Moment of inertia
When you’re turning around an axis, the further the weight is from the axis of rotation the harder it will be to start and stop.
Tyre slip angle
When turning, there is a difference in angle between where the wheel is pointing and where the vehicle is tracking, due to the flexibility of the tyre.
Tyre load sensitivity
Conventional pneumatic tyres don’t behave as your high school physics class might suggest. As the load increases, the co-efficient of friction decreases. The peak lateral (cornering) force increases as the vertical load on the tyre increases, but at a diminishing rate.
The extensive lineup of US-made NoCo 12V jump starters starts with the GB20 model and ranges through to the GB500+.
The GB70 model is the one I recently bought, and I reckon this one should just about cover every four-wheel drivers’ needs here in Australia.
Powered by a 56-watt-hour lithium-ion battery, the GB70 is rated at 12 volts and is able to deliver up to 2000 amps, which is claimed to be good enough to start an 8.0L petrol engine or a 6.0L diesel donk. Weighing in at less than 2kg, it measures just 220mm x 152mm x 70mm, and includes a 400 lumen torch (with seven settings) at one end and 12V power and USB ports at the other end.
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Charging time for the inbuilt battery is two to three hours from a 12V power supply or up to 28 hours using the USB port. NoCo claims when fully charged the battery can provide up to 40 jump starts. There’s inbuilt protection against reverse polarity, overcharging, overheating and from sparks.
The outlet ports can power a camp light or even an air compressor, with the output socket rated at 15 amps. Or you can charge your phone or GoPro camera or run other such devices via the USB connection which is rated at a maximum output of 2.1 amps. Leads and adaptors are provided with the GB70 to make all that happen.
As far as protection from the elements is concerned, the GB70 comes with an IP65 rating which means it is suitable for outdoor use and can withstand assault from dust and solids, and strong jets of water – but don’t drop it into the river beside your camp.
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On the main panel there is an on/off button, a series of LEDs to show the charge status of the internal battery, a switch for the light, and a boost button and indicator light. This light illuminates when Boost is active and when the unit is connected properly to a flat battery.
However, if the flat battery has a voltage that is so low the GB70 can’t detect it, then the Boost button can be pushed to activate the unit and allow charging to begin.
We’ve been using this unit on and off for the last year or so. Once it was charged it sat in the back of the Patrol until called on to do its thing, which was to start a vehicle with a dead flat battery that hadn’t been started for some months. The GB70 indicated it was still fully charged but the 4.0L diesel donk took some effort to fire, and I had to leave the jump start unit connected for a minute or so and then use the boost button to achieve a satisfactory result.
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I’d hazard a guess that if called upon to perform this more than once, at such times and current draw, the unit would not do anywhere near 40 jump starts.
One of the things we have used the GB70 for is to ‘shock’ a very flat battery, say an auxiliary battery in a vehicle or one in a camper, into accepting a charge from an alternator or battery monitoring and charging system, and for this it works a treat.
So how good is the GB70 and is it worth the money? First up, the leads are horribly short and you basically have to sit the unit on the battery for them to reach the terminals, which can make operating it a bit fiddly.
Secondly, jump starters like this are not as good as having another vehicle on hand to jump start a vehicle with a flat battery, but having a mate handy is not always possible, so having one of these units is a great backstop that can get you out of trouble.
As a bonus, it can be used to charge all those modern devices that we can’t seem to live or travel without. But, I still carry a set of jumper leads.
Ford Ranger buyers can now rely on better access to what the company says are the ute’s most popular Genuine accessories.
The opening of a new Ford Vehicle Personalisation Centre (VPC) in Thailand this week will speed up installation of two regular canopy options, a commercial canopy, and a manual roller shutter for those who want their Ford Genuine Accessories fitted before the vehicle even boards the ship for Australia.
“The VPC will complement the Ford Dealer Network by providing us the opportunity to offer customers a faster and seamless one-stop-shop solution for all their personalisation needs,” said Michael Karageorgiou, Ford’s global vehicle personalisation director.
“Customers can now order select accessories through a Ford dealer knowing that their vehicle will arrive in Australia with the accessories fitted and ready to go.”
? Speaking of accessorised Rangers, you should check out the ongoing build we’re working on.
The Ranger’s first VPC-installed accessory fittings are due to begin in March, with Australian delivery scheduled for May. They’ll arrive, of course, on the Grand Quest car carrier that Ford leased for three years from 2023, entirely for its own use.
Just like interest rates, it doesn’t seem like demand for the ever popular Toyota LandCruiser 300 Series is going to come down any time soon.
The latest version of Toyota’s iconic 4X4 SUV launched back in 2021 but despite this being its third year on sale, wait times can still stretch up to 24 months.
Most variants of the LC300 carry a delivery delay of between 12-24 months but the wait time on higher-spec five-seater models stretches beyond two years according to two Toyota dealers we spoke with in Sydney and Melbourne.
The usual caveat applies that if you aren’t bothered by spec or colour you can nab an LC300 much sooner, of course, but if you’d prefer your $100K+ off-roader tailored to suit your preferences, the reality is you’re staring down the barrel of a long wait.
But what if you need a family 4X4 sooner? The good news is the large off-road segment is thriving in Australia are there are many alternatives to choose from, some of which are far more affordable.
And their wait times are far more palatable. The Nissan Patrol, for example, has ample stock “in dealerships for immediate delivery”. So if you don’t want to wait, here are our recommendations for the best LandCruiser 300 Series alternatives…
Patrol vs LandCruiser is a rivalry for the ages and unlike Toyota, Nissan has stock of its venerable off-roader available.
A recent shipment of stock means the Patrol Ti and Ti-L are both available in dealerships for immediate delivery, while orders of the newer Patrol Warrior, will take around two months.
Powered by a thumping 5.6-litre V8 petrol, the Patrol might be older than the turbo V6 ’Cruiser but it’s just as capable off-road, matches the Toyota’s 3500kg braked towing capacity, and arguably has more character thanks to its eight cylinder engine.
Admittedly you will be buying an SUV that’s right at the end of its product cycle — an all new Nissan Patrol is expected to be revealed this year — but the flip side is you’ll also be scoring one with a proven track record for reliability. Information on any known issues and a whole host of aftermarket accessories are readily available, too.
Really want a Toyota? The equally iconic Toyota Prado provides an interesting alternative, namely because you have two choices: buy a run-out example of the outgoing fourth-gen model, which has been on sale since 2009, or throw in an order for the boxier, soon-to-arrive J250 fifth-gen Prado.
Toyota is tipping the next-gen Prado will launch here in the middle of 2024, so if you place an order now there’s a chance you’ll get your car before a LandCruiser 300, although it’s a long shot.
Demand for the 2024 Toyota Prado is likely to be off the scale once Toyota eventually opens its order books, which should be sometime in the coming months.
Buying an existing Prado should be a smoother and faster process, however like the Nissan Patrol, it’s a much older vehicle than the LandCruiser 300 Series. The flip side is it’s a known product so the risk of any major issues should be minimal. You’ll also save a lot of cash compared with LC300 given Prado prices start at just over $60K before on-road costs.
Updated with a new-generation model in 2022, the Aussie-developed Everest brought impressive gains in safety, on-road dynamics and off-road ability.
The redesigned cabin is also more luxurious and comfortable and brings a big tech upgrade courtesy of larger touchscreens and Ford’s latest SYNC4A infotainment system.
Everest is built on the same T6.2 platform as the popular Ford Ranger, meaning it’s reassuringly capable off-road and is available in both rear-wheel drive or all-wheel drive configurations.
Buyers have the choice of two engines: either a 154kW 2.0-litre bi-turbo diesel or a more powerful 3.0-litre V6 turbo diesel. New-gen Everest is far more accomplished to drive compared to its ute-based rivals like Toyota Fortuner and Isuzu MU-X and it carries a 3500kg braked towing capacity.
Prices start at around $55,000, making the Everest a more budget-friendly, if less polished and luxurious, alternative to LC300. Current stock levels are healthy for 4X2 models, but higher-spec 4X4 V6 variants carry a 12 month wait.
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Land Rover Defender
Another iconic nameplate in the world of family 4X4s, the Defender costs roughly the same money as a LandCruiser yet brings the choice of three different body styles: two-door 90, five-door 110 or the even longer five-door Defender 130.
It also has a broad engine line-up including a turbo four-cylinder petrol, two inline six-cylinder units (one petrol, one diesel) and a characterful 5.0-litre supercharged V8.
The current Defender launched in 2020 so it’s roughly the same age as LC300, and it’s far more stylish and resolved than previous Defenders. It also brings LR’s hard-won reputation for being excellent off-road and can tow up to 3500kg.
Chinese alternatives to keep an eye on
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GWM Haval H9
The Haval H9 hasn’t been available in Australia since 2021 but that could soon change after an all-new, second-gen model was recently revealed in China.
Built on an updated ladder-frame chassis, the new-gen H9 is boxier and more luxurious than before and should significantly undercut the segment’s established contenders on price. The first-gen H9 started at $41,990 driveway.
GWM is yet to confirm whether the new H9 will come to Australia but it did say the big off-roader is “certainly on our radar”.
To learn more about the seven-seat H9, read our story below.
Tank 700
Another contender on GWM’s ‘maybe list’ for Australia is the Tank 700. The Tank brand is booming Down Under, with the Tank 500 set to join the existing mid-size Tank 300 in Aussie showrooms over the coming months. The Tank 700 is the brand’s biggest SUV and doesn’t only promise better value than rivals like the LC300 and Nissan Patrol but also more performance.
Built on GWM’s fresh Hi4-T platform, the five-seat Tank 700 is powered by a ‘P2 hybrid’ powertrain with 386kW and 850Nm. Blimey.
4×4 Australia has snapped the JAC T9 testing in Sydney ahead of the Chinese dual-cab ute’s launch in the coming weeks.
The T9 prototype ‘evaluation vehicle’, complete with eponymous rego plates, was spotted at Westfield Eastgardens during the weekend (though it’s unclear whether negotiating the big car park was part of actual testing!).
Local JAC importer BLK Auto is putting the diesel-powered T9 through its final stages of preparation for an ambitious assault on the intensely competitive ute segment.
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A turbo diesel version will be available initially from launch, featuring a 2.0-litre four-cylinder engine producing 125kW (at 3600rpm) and 410Nm (between 1500 and 2500rpm) and teamed with a ZF eight-speed auto.
That compares favourably with other ‘challenger’ utes from Ssangyong and GWM, with the Musso and Cannon producing 133kW/420Nm and 120kW/400Nm, respectively. The LDV T60 produces 160kW and 500Nm thanks to a twin-turbo diesel.
The T9 will feature an electronic part-time 4WD system and comes with a 3500kg braked towing capacity to match the segment standard, and a payload max of exactly 1000kg.
BLK Auto has previously said pricing will be similar to its most direct rivals, with the GWM, LDV and Ssangyong utes starting from between $37K and $39K driveaway in equivalent auto form.
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The fully electric T9 will arrive in the third quarter of 2024, 4×4 Australia has been told.
It’s only direct rival would be the steeply priced LDV eT60 that is targeted more at government and business fleets than private buyers, with a cost of $92,990.
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The diesel 4WD T9 we spotted was the equivalent of what is a range-topping Super Lux trim grade in South Africa – which was the first right-hand-drive market to receive the ute, late last year.
Extra Super Lux features in that market include electric sunroof, electric folding mirrors, privacy glass, surround view camera, and roof rails.
Equipment for the Lux model is quite extensive and would be expected to be replicated for the Australian market.
A representative for JAC importers said T9 examples had also been imported for ANCAP crash testing. BLK Auto has said it expects the T9 to be awarded a maximum five-star rating.
A good swag is an adventurer’s best friend; steady enough to handle the elements and ready to provide a good night’s sleep.
We’ve compiled the best swags in Australia in 2024 to help you choose one to be your camping companion. When purchasing a swag it is best to consider who will be using it and where you plan to camp. This will help you choose a swag that is the right size, comfortable and durable enough to handle whatever conditions you throw at it.
To help you choose, we’ve also included a buyers’ guide, along with our top choices for the Best Swag in Australia 2024.
Wanderer’s Contour swags are designed with the toughest of conditions in mind. However, they are versatile to use in all seasons, making them a great investment which will last you for many camping adventures to come.
The Contour swags come in single and double sizes, each made from a 450gsm canvas and 500gsm PVC floor. This built-in durability will keep you warm and dry in any conditions, without the need to purchase any other accessories.
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The 7cm mattress will give you a comfortable night’s sleep and the No-See-Um mesh across four sides allows you to open up and gaze at the stars on warmer nights. Plus, it will keep the bugs out.
While a heavy-duty fabric is used for the swag, the alloy dome poles keep the overall weight down. There is a top spreader bar for stability and to make it easier to adjust the tension and keep the sides from sagging. The multiple entry points will make access easy, particularly for the double swag.
If you are planning on using your swag in varying weather conditions, Wanderer’s Contour range provides the necessary protection without an over-the-top price tag.
Specifications
Material
450gsm ripstop polycotton canvas
Floor
500gsm PVC
Size
210cm L x 85cm W x 68cm H (single); 215cm L x 140cm W x 83cm H (double)
Darche has created a durable, versatile, easy-to-use swag range in its Dusk to Dawn + collection.
These swags are built to last and will keep you warm and dry in even the toughest of conditions. There are three separate sizes to choose from: 90cm, 110cm or 140cm wide. Each is easy to set up – with two composite poles and a trigger-lock ridge pole for stability. Inside is a 7cm thick foam mattress with a removable cover.
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The Dusk to Dawn + range has been upgraded to include a front vestibule for gear storage. It has full-length canvas storm flaps – which you can open up in good weather or close off to stay dry and warm. The mesh panels provide excellent ventilation while keeping insects out.
These swags are at the higher end of the price range, however, for the quality – and with a three-year warranty – the Dusk to Dawn + range is a worthy investment.
Specifications
Material
420gsm ripstop polycotton canvas
Floor
600gsm PVC
Size
300cm L x 90cm W x 81cm H (900); 300cm L x 110cm W x 81cm H (1100); 300cm L x 140cm W x 81cm H (1400)
For a versatile swag that won’t cost an arm and a leg, XTM’s 4×4 range fits the bill. The Double and Single swags are durable, easy to set up and spacious enough to fit one or two people comfortably.
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The swag has lightweight alloy poles that are easy to erect. Plus, the expandable spreader bar lets you get the right tension and prevents the sides from sagging. The large mesh-covered sides provide good ventilation.
For the lower price, you are only getting a 5cm thick mattress so you may consider using an extra mattress on top. Or for kids, this could be the perfect addition when they are ready to sleep on their own.
Specifications
Material
400gsm ripstop polycotton canvas
Floor
450gsm PVC
Size
215cm L x 90cm W x 65cm H (single); 215cm L x 140cm W x 83cm H (double)
The Nebula 1550 by Darche provides the space of a tent with the comfort and durability of a swag. Built for two people and best for car touring – this swag has all the features for a hassle-free camping adventure in any conditions.
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If you’re after more space in your swag, you’ll appreciate the larger dimensions of this double swag by Darche. The one-metre roof height means it’s possible to sit up and easier to change your clothes inside. Keep in mind however, the extra spaciousness equates to extra weight.
The Nebula 1550 has access on all four sides and mesh covered walls to give you great ventilation. For a higher price point you are getting more swag and all the great features and durability that can be expected in a Darche product.
If hitting the road on two wheels is more your style, the OZtrail Biker Expedition is a great single-swag option. It will provide durability and comfort without compromising on being lightweight and packing down small.
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The Biker Expedition swag has full zip-top entry, making it easy to get in and out. The No-See-Um mesh top allows for good ventilation and keeps the bugs out. Two domed, end poles make it quick and easy to set up, with a maximum height of 55cm.
The swag comes with a 5cm thick mattress and a carry bag with durable Double D rings on the straps. It packs down to a small size for easy portability and is versatile enough to be used for other camping adventures as well.
The Bushman Deluxe is a traditional apex swag that is lightweight, pole free and made in Australia. It comes in four sizes and would be a great biker swag or perfect for any campers wanting to minimise weight.
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The Bushman Deluxe swags have a spacious design and extended head flap to keep you dry in all conditions. The zips run the entire length of the swag giving easy access. The design allows for multiple configurations to provide extra ventilation or sun protection as needed.
The mattress is 7cm thick with a removable cover and is also made in Australia. The latest models come with a handy carry bag that will fit not only the swag and mattress, but sleeping bags and pillows as well.
Specifications
Material
14oz water and rot-proof canvas
Floor
14oz water and rot-proof canvas
Size
200cm L x 71cm W x 70cm H (Single); 214cm L x 85cm W x 70cm H (King Single); 214cm L x 116cm W x 70cm H (Double); 214cm L x 150cm W x 70cm H (Queen)
Dune 4WD’s King Titan Deluxe is a durable, spacious, double swag that is also well priced. Its one-metre headspace provides extra comfort that will be appreciated by taller campers.
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It includes a 7cm thick mattress for a comfortable sleep, plus a removable cover to make cleaning easy. The heavy-duty canvas and PVC floor will provide protection from the elements, while large mesh windows allow for ventilation in the warmer months.
For the price, the King Titan deluxe is a winner due to its generous size. It will comfortably sleep two adults, and stand up to the elements as a good swag should.
Swags come in different shapes and sizes – but a few things remain constant. They are designed to be easy to set up, durable and comfortable to sleep in. Here’s a breakdown of what to look for in all of these measures when choosing a swag to suit you.
Ease of set up and pack down
Swags are designed to be set up quickly and easily. The mattresses are already inside so you can roll it out, erect it and it’s ready to go. When it comes time to pack down, remove any poles, pegs or guy ropes, roll it up and use the straps to secure it. Durable carry bags or straps with Double D rings can make a big difference to the durability and portability of your swag when packed down.
Durability
Durability is a key element with swags. They are designed to withstand the toughest of elements. To check the durability of your swag, look for the types of materials used in both the swag and the flooring.
Material
Most swags are made from ripstop polycotton canvas. This is a tough fabric which will withstand wind and rain, and keep your warmth inside the swag. This canvas is rated by weight – the heavier the canvas, the more durable it will be. However, keep in mind, this adds to the overall swag weight as well. In addition, all canvas swags will require seasoning before use. You can read more about how to season your swag below.
Flooring
For flooring, PVC is the most common material used. A bucket floor made from heavy-duty PVC will protect the bottom of the swag and the mattress from stones or sticks underneath. It will also stop water seeping in from the ground. For swags that have a canvas floor, it can be a good idea to place a tarp or ground sheet underneath.
Comfort
For a comfortable night’s sleep you should check the quality of the mattress and the overall swag size. It’s also good to check the ventilation quality and ease of access as this will make for a more comfortable camping experience.
Mattresses
Most swags will have a 5 or 7cm mattress included in them. While it’s not attached to the swag, the mattress is designed to remain inside, both when it’s in use and packed away. Mattresses that have a removable cover will be easier to clean. Thicker mattresses can make the pack-down process a little harder, as they are not so easy to roll up. If the thickness is not comfortable enough for you, you can always add an extra layer, such as a foam or inflatable camping mattress.
Size
Whether you are after a single or double swag, it is always good to check the dimensions. There are no standard sizes for swags in Australia so different manufacturers will have different ‘single’ and ‘double’ swags. When checking the width and length of the swag, consider who will be sleeping in it – and if you will want to store any gear inside. Swags with a vestibule can be a great way to have extra storage space.
Height
Also consider the height of the swag. Swags are not designed to be spacious like tents, as they are built for sleeping only. However, a little extra head height will make it more comfortable, particularly for taller campers. Check if you will be able to sit upright in the swag and consider if you plan to be changing your clothes whilst inside as well.
Ventilation
Swags are made of very durable materials to withstand rain and wind, however this means they can heat up very quickly on warmer days and retain that heat through the night. If you are planning to use your swag in all seasons, you should ensure there is plenty of ventilation. Look for large mesh panels across all sides and ensure the mesh is of the right quality to prevent insects from getting inside.
Access points
Particularly if you are purchasing a swag for two people to use, make sure there are multiple access points. This way you’ll avoid having to climb over each other every time you enter and exit the swag. It can also be handy for getting gear in and out of the swag when needed.
Quality Zippers
Quality zippers will stand the test of time and also stand up to the elements. On a swag that is designed to be durable and long lasting, you’ll want to ensure the zippers meet this requirement as well.
Internal pockets
Internal pockets in a swag can be useful for storing valuables such as keys and phones. Some swags also feature boot pockets to keep your muddy shoes clear of the sleeping area.
How to season your swag
Swags made from canvas will require the canvas to be seasoned before use. Most swags will come with instructions on how to do this properly. It requires wetting the canvas multiple times and allowing it to dry out completely in between.
This allows the fibres of the canvas to expand and contact, sealing any tiny holes in the seams that were made during manufacture. It is essential to ensure your swag is completely waterproof. Factor this in to your purchase, as you’ll need to allow time to complete the seasoning process before you take it out on your first trip.
How we review products
4X4 Australia has been reviewing four-wheel drive vehicles, aftermarket products and camping gear for more than 40 years. When looking for the best swags in Australia there are some things that are essential to ensure you sleep soundly under the stars.
When we compared each of the swags in the list with hundreds out there we looked at the size, weight, durability and price. We also searched for additional features that make these swags stand out from the rest.
We looked at hundreds of user reviews and drew on our own experience sleeping in swags to make sure our recommendations are for the best on the market.
Disclosure: When you buy through our links, we may earn a commission. We also include products that we do not earn a commission from.
We’ve all heard the story of someone’s mate who had their 4×4 cut in two when some unscrupulous swine ran the winch cable back over the car, hooked it to the towbar and powered the winch to crush the roof. But has anyone ever seen it happen, or is it just one of those tales you hear around the campfire?
We enlisted the crew at Sherpa 4×4 to help us prove whether or not this was actually possible. Can a 12-volt winch crush a 4×4? Sherpa fitted one of its Steed 17,000lb 12-volt winches to the front of a sacrificial, old Rodeo and welded a custom mount to the back to set up the destruction.
The Sherpa Steed 17,000 is a far bigger winch than anyone would sanely fit to a Holden Rodeo, but we were going to put it to the test. With its genuine Albright solenoids, gearbox-mounted brake and heavy duty steel cable we knew the Steed would be up to the job.
*Originally published March 14, 2017
Pretty much everyone agrees the next-gen Ranger is a good thing right out of the box.
A nice torquey turbo-deezy, comfy suspension and enough modcons and buttons to keep any teenaged video-game connoisseur occupied for hours on end. They go hard as work utes too, able to fit a pallet in the tray and with a healthy GVM and tow rating, they’re ideal for getting to the jobsite and back home again in style and comfort.
Oh, and they’re not too shabby off the blacktop either. At least, that’s what Mark Sinfield, the owner of this weapon, reckons. Mark’s a builder, so he needed something to cart his work gear around without fuss, but he’s also one of us, so he needed a rig that’d comfortably take him to far-flung destinations without a hiccup too.
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Having owned a fair few modified 4X4s in the past, he wanted to build something special out of his brand new bus yet didn’t just want to head to his local 4X4 major supply-chain and hand them a blank cheque. He was after something that would stand out in a crowd, something one-off, something to embody the ‘lifted life’.
What he ended up with… well, let’s just say there aren’t too many next-gen Rangers getting around on 37-inch rubber. As you’d expect, however, getting here wasn’t all plain sailing.
Fitting 37-inch tyres
The first big hurdle Mark came up against was the internet experts who told him it couldn’t be done. He even had a few professional shops tell him fitting big rubber on the Ranger was “impossible”.
Luckily, Mark isn’t the type of bloke who listens to the haters and is surrounded by mates who like to party hard off-road, so he set out to find the right companies to help him fulfil his vision.
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First stop was PSR in Yatala, who set him up with a 50mm body lift. It’s been one of the few mods that went in without a hitch, and gave enough clearance, along with a cheapo suspension lift, for 33-inch rubber to be comfortably fitted to aftermarket KMC rims… all within two weeks of buying the rig, no less.
From there Mark decided to skip the whole “let’s put 35s on” phase and go straight for some serious rubber. The 37×12.50R17 Yokohama X-ATs were mounted up to a set of bronze Lenso M79 alloys and bolted in place in the front yard. Of course, it wasn’t quite that easy.
The front bar needed the entire fog-light section removed with a grinder and dremel (and has since been replaced with a prototype PSR Ambush Bar), but the structural sections of the body were all left alone. There you have it folks. You can fit 37s on your next-gen Ranger, no matter what the “experts” say.
With the tyres in place, the suspension was lacking, so Mark got in touch with Carbon Offroad, who sent him out a set of prototype 2-4-inch raised adjustable coilovers along with a set of twin-tube rear shocks and 600kg leaf springs to handle Mark’s tools and work trailer without sagging like an elderly sumo wrestler.
With the lift, ride and off-road abilities sorted, it was time to turn the attention to the other areas of the Ranger.
Penny Industries canopy
With the standard tub gone, Penny Industries knocked up a one-off chassis-mount canopy that stores the tools or camping gear, depending on what part of the week it is.
On the outside is the spare 37, a jerry can holder, recovery board mounts, a rear trundle drawer, Crashpad Crash Cover 270 awning, and a Drifta Stockton rooftopper that handles accommodation duties when Mark is hundreds of clicks from the nearest Airbnb.
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Inside there’s a 130L Bushman upright that’s protected from inadvertent projectiles by a cage, a twin drawer setup, a second fridge slide over on the driver’s side for tools, and the electrical switch panel that controls the output from the 100A/h Enerdrive slimline lithium that’s topped up at camp by a roof mounted 100W solar panel.
A 60-litre poly water tank is also mounted beneath the canopy, making this pretty much a liveable off-grid set-up for a fair chunk of time.
Final touch
The last 10 per cent takes 90 per cent of the effort, right?
Well, it does for most of us, but given Mark has turned this rig into a hell of a tourer and low-range weapon in under a year, he’s clearly not the type of person who sits on his hands.
The Ranger is protected out front by the aforementioned PSR Ambush steel bar that houses a Carbon Tank 12,000lb electric rope-spooler, which had only been on the market a couple of weeks at the time of writing. Meanwhile, the wider rims and tyres are covered by 45mm wider Utemart flares which have so far kept the road pirates from taking too much notice. The body is kept straight thanks to steel SCF rocksliders, which Mark had further customised with a laser-cut-out of his Instagram handle, LFD_LIFE (lifted life).
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Feeding the 3.0L V6 turbo-diesel (which will be tuned as soon as tunes become available – at last check the boffins at CrdTech were about 95 per cent there) is a Meredith Metalworks 4-inch short-entry snorkel, which compliments the modern styling of the Ranger nicely, while the lighting duties are taken care of thanks to Base6 LEDs that Mark hooked up through OzLED.
All up, Mark is pretty happy with his Next-Gen, but he did stress that modifying a brand-new vehicle is not without its pitfalls, especially given he didn’t want to go for a cookie-cutter off-the-shelf build.
With a little perseverance, some strong words directed at the CANBUS system, and involving companies willing to work towards a common goal, he’s pulled off a rig that’s the holy trifecta of off-road driving: comfortable, capable and camp-out-of-able.
Is it ever really finished?
You didn’t really think Mark was done did you? Don’t be silly, he’s got a lot more up his sleeve for his Ranger. He’s keen on a 450mm chassis extension, some big power mods and is currently having Penny Industries fab him up a custom toy-hauler as we speak… so yeah, we’ll leave it there before our heads start spinning.
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Fitting big tyres on a new vehicle
Suspension
On modern vehicles with IFS, you’re pretty limited to how high you can lift your rig to fit big rubber. However, for a 3-4-inch lift the rules are generally to add longer coils and shocks (duh) and a diff drop that’ll keep your half-shaft angles within spec. This won’t necessarily gain you any wheel travel (in fact, it won’t at all) but will provide tyre clearance
Body lift
You can gain another 50-70mm under the guards through a body lift, which may also necessitate mods to the CANBUS system and a steering shaft extension. You’ll also have to make sure your bar work will still fit without looking goofy.
Get the grinder out
Even after all that, you may still need to trim things like inner guards, body mounts and bar work – Mark had to completely remove the foglights from his stock front bar to gain clearance for his 37s.
Be realistic
Not everyone has the time, energy and resources to get big rubber onto their vehicle. While the looks are great, everything is a compromise, and the increased wear and tear on steering and suspension components, fuel use, and amount of mods needed, and the fact that driver skill will always outweigh bigger rubber in 99.9 per cent of off-road scenarios, can easily make it a diminishing-returns exercise.
With that said, if it’s what you want then going into it with eyes wide open is essential. Another alternative that will swallow up a whole lot less time and probably less money would be to buy a dedicated wheeling bus and a car trailer, and keep your daily on 33s or below.
Thanks
Mark had a long list of folks to thank for their help during this build, most of whom we’ve already mentioned, but one bloke who he specifically wanted to shout out is Kyle from Repco in Kawana on the Sunny Coast. On ya mate!
Western Australia’s Gibson Desert mightn’t be the biggest desert in Australia, but it still measures in at just over 155,000 square kilometres in size – making it the fifth largest behind the Great Victoria, Great Sandy, Tanami and the Simpson.
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The Gibson is bordered to the north by the Great Sandy Desert and to the south by the Great Victoria Desert, and a 4×4 trip to this arid region requires serious preparation and an equally serious 4×4 vehicle. The area is remote, and isolation is all but guaranteed. However, with those perks comes extra caution, as you’ll need to be entirely self-sufficient and prepared for the worst. That means packing competent recovery gear, plenty of water and working communications.
The world-famous Canning Stock Route passes through the Gibson (as well as the Great Sandy and Tanami deserts) and you can read all about the revered CSR in this feature. However, while the CSR may steal the headlines, the Gibson contains other compelling 4×4 tracks.
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A lesser-known yet equally difficult route within the Gibson is the Talawana Track, which itself intersects with the Canning Stock Route. The 596km-long Talawana Track – the majority of it built by Len Beadell and co. – leaves the Gary Highway at Windy Corner and runs west to Marble Bar Road. The track is extremely remote and you’ll have plenty of time to spend getting to know the many spinifex that dot the horizon.
For a more ‘straightforward’ drive, take the corrugated Gunbarrel Highway, a track of more than 1300km of vertebrae-destroying bumps. A Gunbarrel run can be paired with trips to the Tanami, the CSR, or a trip to the West MacDonnells. The Highway, built between 1955-58, runs from Carnegie in WA to Victory Downs just over the border in the NT.
As with all tracks and destinations on this list, low range and high clearance are required.
We simply couldn’t have a list of essential desert expeditions without shining the spotlight on the Canning Stock Route (CSR).
The CSR is an essential desert trip, with the route crossing three deserts – the Gibson, Great Sandy and Tanami – in its entirety. Anyone who has travelled this route will tell you it’s not for the fainthearted, and it constantly comes up in campfire conversations when discussing Australia’s toughest tracks.
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The brutal, almost-1800km slog, comprises of treacherous ruts and hundreds of sand dunes, making the CSR one of Australia’s – if not the world’s – most demanding tracks. The route strikes through the heart of WA’s huge outback, running from Wiluna in the south all the way up to Halls Creek in the north, and we’d put aside a few weeks for this adventure.
A calling card of the CSR is to follow the wells that connect the track and once watered the stock travelling the route back in the day – its origins dating back to 1910. The track can be reached via Tanami Road from the Bililuna turnoff.
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With tracks of this magnitude and difficulty we’d recommend travelling with a convoy – one other buddy at a minimum – or joining up with one of the many tour parties that cater for this area. Yes, it’s difficult, but the well-earned beers upon completing the CSR will taste even better.
A CSR permit is required to travel between Wells 5 to 51 and can be acquired online. Remember, though, proceed with caution: the rugged, unyielding track has a reputation for killing 4WDs. So get your 4×4 checked and ticked off before you leave, ensure your suspension is in tip-top shape, have plenty of spares and supplies, and pack the air compressor.
The CSR is a remote desert experience recommended for experienced travellers only.
The Strzelecki Track strikes right through the heart of South Australia’s Strzelecki Desert, and while it mightn’t be the most challenging or demanding outback track, it leads to a number of intersecting tracks and nearby attractions to explore.
Experienced 4×4 scribes often describe the Strzelecki Track as a great introduction to remote-area touring; for those a bit wet behind the ears when it comes to loading the fourbie for long stints off the blacktop. If a Simpson Desert expedition seems daunting, then the Strzelecki is great preparation to build up one’s confidence. Still, you’ll need to be self-sufficient, have adequate recovery kit, and be packing up-to-date, working equipment and communications.
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A recommended starting point to tackle the Strzelecki is at Leigh Creek in the south, a former mining town with a dwindling population. From Leigh Creek, the route will pass through the Vulkathunha-Gammon National Park and parts of the Flinders Ranges (Arkaroola, as mentioned in ‘Flinders Ranges and Beyond’, is also nearby and well-signposted), before joining the Strzelecki Track near Mount Hopeless.
The Strzelecki Track itself, pioneered back in 1871 by a cattle thief named Harry Redford, is quite well-maintained and mostly unsealed, with the 475km outback track linking Innamincka to Lyndhurst. The surrounding desert views for the majority of the track remain largely unchanged, with hardy vegetation stretching to the horizon.
Worthwhile detours include a stopover for a pint at Cameron Corner, via the Merty Merty Track; a sticky beak at the Moomba processing plant; the outskirts of the Lake Eyre basin; and the Montecollina Bore (and the nearby Strzelecki Crossing). Before too long you’ll arrive at Innamincka, well-known for the historically significant Burke and Wills Dig Tree.
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Put aside a couple of days for a Strzelecki adventure, but remember it gets very hot during summer and it can be impassable after heavy rain. Rain also makes the tracks slippery and closed with flash flooding known to occur in the area.
Fuel can be picked up at Lyndhurst, Leigh Creek, Innamincka, Arkaroola and Cameron Corner. However, as with any desert trip, be prepared and self-reliant, with spare fuel, spare water, recovery gear and working comms.
Special-access permits are required to travel in the area, and a Desert Parks Pass is required to camp in the Innamincka Reserve.
A route that lives somewhat in the shadow of the famous CSR is the Anne Beadell Highway, which is notably shorter but considerably less popular for 4×4 tourers – a reason why it’s arguably even more remote than the revered CSR.
Dominated by claypans and salt lakes to corrugations and sand dunes, Anne Beadell remains largely untouched, in turn increasing the track’s degree of difficulty.
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Like other tracks on this list, the Anne Beadell Highway was surveyed and built by Len Beadell, and the track was named after Len’s wife Anne. The Highway, listed at some 1324km in length, strikes through WA’s massive Great Victoria Desert, from Laverton in WA to Coober Pedy in SA.
If undertaking an Anne Beadell expedition, expect remoteness, with tourers often returning from their trips without encountering a single soul. You’ll need to be entirely self-sufficient. In fact, there are very long distances between fuel stops so you’ll need to pack extra fuel, water and supplies.
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The extreme remoteness of the track means it should be left to steerers adept at desert travel, in low-range vehicles with uprated suspension and a couple of spares. The area is also sparingly signposted, so a good GPS system and even paper maps will prove invaluable.
Permits are required to travel through aboriginal and government-restricted areas, and they can be acquired by visiting www.ilkurlka.org.au
The Flinders Ranges officially begin about 500km north of Adelaide, making it a five-hour jaunt on bitumen or an hour in the air.
Those familiar with the region will know that the Flinders isn’t solely known for desert country, with the area’s mountains also lush with forests, vegetation and wildlife. However, going north into the Ranges – and farther north again – you’ll enter real desert territory, with soft sand tracks and a barren, remote landscape leading to the horizon in every direction.
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In 2019, our 4X4 Adventure Series team tackled the Flinders Ranges from south to north, beginning near the southern edge at Mount Remarkable and heading north via the Bendleby Ranges, Quorn (and its famous Pichi Richi Railway), the Willochra Plains, the Skytrek Track at Willow Springs, Brachina Gorges, Wilpena Pound, Beltana, Moro Gorge, Gammon Ranges and Chambers Gorge. If you can follow that route, you’ll be well-rewarded.
The semi-arid Wilpena Pound, in particular, is a must-visit outback spot that’s very popular with international tourists who long for a taste of outback Australiana.
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Arkaroola is another recommended spot in this northern Flinders Ranges region, with the dry outback location luring many pundits each year. A bucket-list destination within the Flinders Ranges is to climb the Ridgetop Track in the Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary to Sillers Lookout. The dry track leads to some of the best outback views in the country. You’ll need to join a tour for the opportunity, though.
From the Flinders Ranges, tourers can continue their journeys north to the Simpson Desert, with roads leading to Maree, Coober Pedy or past Arkaroola to the Strzelecki Track.
For a truly epic desert experience, a trip down the Gary Junction Road through Western Australia’s Great Sandy Desert is unmissable. And, like many other desert tracks in the region, this too was built by Len Beadell and his crew, back in 1960.
Heading in an easterly direction from Marble Bar, an old mining town with prominence as “the hottest town in Australia”, following the Gary Junction Road is around a 1400km journey to Alice Springs. The trip from Marble Bar to Alice Springs strikes through the heart of the Great Sandy.
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Fuel and limited supplies can be picked up from various spots along the way including at Punmu; Kunawarritji; Kiwirrkurra; Kintore; and Papunya. The latter open 24 hours a day, while the longest fuel stop between drinks – 400km – is between Marble Bar and Punmu.
Gary Junction Road is unlike many other remote tracks in the region in that it is – for the most part – a well-formed dirt road, despite corrugations and soft sand in sections. For that, a low-range 4×4 is essential.
Haasts Bluff and Mt Liebig are but two highlights of the track, with the communities of Papunya, Kintore and Kiwirrkurra all serviced by the road.
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Another route in the Great Sandy is to follow the Nyangumarta Highway (formerly known as the Kidson Track) to 80 Mile Beach, located north of Port Hedland. The route was once blazed in the pursuit of oil, but has since been abandoned. It’s remote and hard work, but you’ll be well-rewarded upon completion.
To travel the full length of the Gary Junction Road you’ll need a permit from the Central Lands Council in the NT and the Dept of Aboriginal Affairs in WA. Both are available online and are easily applied for and generally quickly issued.
There’s an ‘outback’ in Victoria and it’s only a four-hour drive from Melbourne. Yep, the 1326 square-kilometre Little Desert National Park is Victoria’s own slice of outback Australia!
The park is located not far from the township of Dimboola, and is bordered by the Wimmera River and the SA/Vic border to the west. The tracks consist of a heady mixture of sandy desert terrain, lined with a mix of mallee country vegetation and river red gums.
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Of the 600km of 4×4 tracks within the park, some of the point-of-interests include Dahlenburgs Mill, Jungkum, Salt Lake, Mallee, McCabes Hut, Broughtons-Sambells, Lawloit (for views of and from Sister Hills), Jacobs and Mt Moffat. There are six campgrounds within the park to unwind for a night or two, including the Kiata, Ackle Bend and Horseshoe Bend campgrounds. Fees vary, so be sure to check before you go.
The tracks aren’t regarded as overly difficult, so they should pose no issues for experienced four-wheel drivers – however, the tracks in the park’s western section are considered to be rated as more difficult. The park also provides access to a great deal of bushwalking tracks, and a vast collection of flora and fauna. The tracks are subject to seasonal closures, and can also be closed due to the weather.
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While it mightn’t be as epic as a Simpson trip, it’s a great way to dip the toes in if it’s your first foray into desert expeditions. A great recommendation before tackling the more serious tracks in the wild west, whether it be for one night or many.
Australia’s most popular desert for 4x4ers looking to escape civilisation for a quintessential outback experience, the Simpson Desert is riddled with famous tracks.
Binns Track (starting at Mount Dare in SA), the Madigan Line, the QAA Line, the Old Andado Track, and the Hay River Track all lie within the Simpson’s boundaries.
The Simpson Desert is the fourth largest desert in Australia and one of its claims to fame is that it features the longest parallel dunes in the world, with some dunes said to be an incredible 200km in length. The most famous dune in the Simpson is Big Red, on the outskirts of Birdsville in outback Queensland, which stands 40 metres tall.
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The southern end of the Simpson Desert begins in northern South Australia, near Lake Eyre and north of the Flinders Ranges. In its entirety, the desert measures a whopping 170,000 square kilometres and spans across the NT, South Australia and Queensland.
There are a number of popular routes to take for a quintessential Simpson adventure. One such track is Binns, which begins at Mount Dare in South Australia and then runs north into the NT where Old Andado Road leads to Alice Springs.
The Madigan Line begins north of Old Andado Station, striking east into Queensland before meeting up with the QAA Line. The QAA Line then leads from the junction of the K1 Line near Poeppel Corner, all the way to Big Red near Birdsville.
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Both the Oodnadatta and Birdsville Tracks begin at the small outback town of Marree in SA, with the Birdsville Tracks heading northeast to Birdsville, and the 405km-long Oodnadatta track following the Old Ghan Railway.
There are also numerous National Parks and iconic landmarks within the Simpson Desert, with the Parks subject to seasonal closures during the summer months. A Desert Parks Pass permit is required to travel via a number of tracks through the Simpson Desert.
Due to the Simpson’s popularity, most of the tracks aren’t as isolated as some others on this list (CSR, Anne Beadell etc.), but it’s still remote, difficult touring; so a well-prepped vehicle is essential.
“Volume won’t be a problem with this car based on our sales planning,” says Sean Hanley, Toyota’s Australian boss as he looks across to the right-hand drive Tundra pick-up, the culmination of a five year project.
Toyota calls this ute their ‘premium towing machine’ and it’s not hard to see why. With a rated towing capacity of 4.5 tonnes, it picks up where LandCruiser 300 and HiLux have left off.
There’s been a long validation process and 280 customers and 20 Toyota internal staff are in the process of a year long trial, so this is yet to be a signed off program.
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When asked if he’s confident that the right-hand engineering, in partnership with Walkinshaw, will be up to scratch, he smiles confidently, leans in and says, “We’re certainly not doing this not to launch the car,” he chuckles.
It’s a project that has been made easier by the wealth of componentry shared with the LC300. The crucial ‘run, stop, turn’ items that would be hugely costly to re-homologate are virtually a straight swap.
That’s not to say that the project has been easy. Both Toyota Japan and Toyota USA needed to be convinced of the viability of the project first. Then there’s the small matter of the statement of technical ability.
Naturally, should the Tundra project prove a success, the gateway would appear to be open for Toyota Australia to become a hub for right-hook re-engineering with export potential, but Hanley won’t be drawn on that one. “There’s no export plan at this point, but who knows for the future? We always look at opportunities,” he says.
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Ray Munday is the engineer in charge of the project or, to use his official title, Senior Manager – Vehicle Evaluation and Regulations. He throws some more light on the development story.
“In 2017 we undertook a genchi-genbutsu (go to the source) tour,” he says. Toyota invited Japanese staff to speak to ex-Toyota customers in Australia, ex-customers who no longer felt served by Toyota for their towing requirements. “It wasn’t always glamorous. We did a tour of caravan parks, which was a bit of a novelty for the Japanese because they don’t really have them at home.”
It was clear that there was an opportunity for Toyota to serve a market for those towing large horse floats, race cars, construction equipment, farming gear and big boats. The priority was simple: maximum towing capacity. It also needed to offer space, comfort and a long driving range.
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The focus was firmly on-road driving. That’s why the Tundra sports a five-link coil-sprung rear end rather than the heavy duty leafs as seen on most other dual cabs.
Yes, you lose a little in the weight it can carry in the bed, but Toyota claims the gains in comfort and control more than offset this for the target market. Lateral location is particularly good with the coil-sprung rear, which builds confidence when towing something large.
Likewise, the 3.4-litre (3445cc – don’t let them bilk you by calling it a 3.5) i-FORCE MAX petrol V6 features a motor-generator that adds 36kW and 140Nm. The electric boost isn’t for economy; it’s for sheer grunt. With a system power output of 326kW and 790Nm, the Tundra could tow an errant tectonic plate back into line.
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We hitched up a horse float filled with concrete in order to max out the towing capacity of the Tundra and it still pulled cleanly and relatively effortlessly.
That’s the joy of the instant torque of the electric motor. Without it, the V6 would probably be straining somewhat to overcome that inertia, but assistance of that permanent magnet synchronous motor is key to smoothing the inputs and reducing strain on the transmission.
At this point it’s worth pointing out that our drive of the Tundra was entirely confined to its Australian home base, the AARC proving ground in Victoria, so there are still some questions that remain unanswered – by us at least – about how it works on road here.
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A 50mm tow ball is supplied as standard, which is good up to 3.5-tonnes. Beyond that, you’ll need a heavier duty 70mm ball if you want to drag the full 4.5-tonne quota.
Bear in mind that when towing at maximum capacity, a couple of people and their luggage is about as much as you can legally house on board without busting through maximum payload limits. The Gross Combined Mass of the Tundra is rated at 7825kg and its kerb weight is listed at 2778kg.
It can operate in EV mode to 30km/h and features a 288-volt Ni-Mh battery under the rear seats while the motor-generator sits in the bell housing of the 10-speed auto.
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A tow/haul mode changes gearbox shift points, electric power steering feel, throttle mapping, alters the drop-down front spoiler, detects a trailer and optimises safety systems like blind spot monitoring. The transmission also has dedicated Eco, Normal and Sport modes.
Overall refinement is good, and the electrically-assisted steering is a little relaxed about the straight-ahead which, given its likely intended function, is perhaps no bad thing. The electronic brake controller for the trailer works extremely well, pulling the trailer back into line cleanly if you’ve done something to upset the balance.
The four-pot front brakes of the Tundra are appropriately meaty, clamping onto 354mm vented discs. At the back there’s a single-piston floating caliper that gets to work on a 335mm vented rotor.
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Despite the fact that the Tundra is fitted with a dual-range 4WD system and a limited slip differential, this is no off-road hero.
When asked how good it was off-road, a Toyota employee made a comment which could be very loosely translated as ‘about as good as would be expected of a vehicle with 21-degree departure angle and road-biased tyres’.
Nevertheless, the big Toyota is admirably stiff in terms of chassis torsion for such a long wheelbase vehicle. There’s very little in the way of scuttle deformation, even when bumping up oblique kerbs. The four-wheel drive system is also capable of shifting on the fly at up to 80km/h between 2WD and 4WD although you will, predictably, need to come to a halt in order to engage low ratio.
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With a 122-litre fuel tank, the Tundra’s equipped for distance and the cabin is comfortable enough to easily cope with big road trips. Even in the back, there’s a huge amount of rear legroom. So much so, that you almost miss a rear bench that could recline a few degrees to take advantage of it.
Cabin quality? That’s one area that could do with a little bit of additional polish, with the storage bin lids feeling pretty basic. At the estimated price point of the Tundra, that could be a little better. It feels resolute and no-nonsense but not the leather-swathed luxe of some top-end utes.
You do get black pleather upholstery, heated and vented front seats with 8-way electric adjustment, a 12.3-inch digital instrument cluster, wireless Apple CarPlay (but wired Android Auto), a 12-speaker JBL stereo, a 14.0-inch central touchscreen, five USB ports and a 12v accessory socket, dual zone climate control with vents in the rear and a 60/40 split rear seat.
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The cushion can fold up, creating an additional dry storage area for bulky items while still retaining some vestige of rear passenger accommodation.
The tub features side and back rails and moveable tie-down points as well as a manual trifold tonneau cover. Toyota claims that it a full accessory package including bull bars is in the works but more on that at a later date.
As well as switching the steering wheel from left to right, the Tundra required ADR-compliant headlamps, license plate mount, and mirror angles. The steering rack and exhaust heat shield all had to be changed, along with the wiper system, the dash panel, the brake pedal and mounting points (from LC300).
The wiring harness, brake master cylinder, HVAC blower motor, IP wire harness, seatbelts, multimedia, tail lamps, trailer plug, and mudguards all needed to be re-engineered. Even the floor mats were all-new custom designs, made in Australia.
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Toyota needs to convince itself of the quality of the re-engineering work
Thousands of kilometres of back-to-back testing at the AARC proving ground in Victoria and on-road between Altona and Darwin while towing a 4.5-tonne trailer have convinced Toyota that it’s onto a good thing with the Tundra, a vehicle that, no matter what detractors will say about giant utes, seems a good fit for the more wide open parts of Australia.
There are still a number of blanks that remain to be filled before we can deliver a decisive verdict on the Aussie-spec Tundra, price being the key component.
Toyota needs to convince itself of the quality of the re-engineering work, but make no mistake, if Toyota Australia can get this one right, it not only boosts the prestige of the Aussie outpost in Toyota’s global ecosystem, but potentially opens the doors to other projects and, logically, other right-hand drive export markets. So there’s a lot riding on it. At this juncture, the impressions are cautiously promising.
While the Tundra badge may be new to Australia, it’s been a solid fixture in the US since the turn of the century and this model is the third-gen XK70 variant, launched over there in 2022.
Prior to that there was the XK30/40 (model years 2000-2006) and the XK50 (MY 2007-2021). The Tundra was never officially sold in Japan. Despite that there’s a cult following for this ‘forbidden fruit’ in Japan with a Tundra Owners Club for left-hand drive imports.
