Cast your mind back 215 million years to the Triassic period, when volcanic activity was rampant, dinosaurs roamed the land and massive eruptions were helping to trigger mass extinction.

It was at this time that these forces started to shape Australia’s landscape, especially the breakup of supercontinents around the world. Kroombit Tops in central Queensland was one of the places shaped during this period. Today, it’s a geological marvel, where the foundation of the park is rooted in intense volcanic activity.

It all started with a massive circular caldera – the depression formed when a volcano erupts and collapses – roughly 40km across, which collapsed under its own weight. Over millions of years, the surrounding land eroded, but the combination of hard volcanic rock and durable sandstone capping resisted erosion, resulting in the high-altitude plateau that rises to 940m on Kroombit Tops.

Today, spectacular 100m-high sandstone cliffs mark the edge of the plateau and can be seen particularly along the north-east sections. Creeks have since cut into this landscape, creating deep, narrow and rugged gullies, allowing both dry woodland and rainforest to thrive in this unique cool-climate area.

1

4×4 access to Kroombit Tops from Monto

It had been a few years since I was last at Kroombit, and I was keen to head back in, but from a different direction. Last time, I came in from the north along Tablelands Road, which is suitable for towing off-road trailers, but this time I wanted more of an adventure.

My starting point was the little town of Monto, on the southern side of Kroombit. Today, it’s busy with dairy farms, tourism and large mines extracting thermal coal deposits, but back in the late 1840s, gold was found and the town grew for many years. Gold was mined between the late 1860s and around 1925, and the area was run by successive madams who housed, fed and generally exploited the local miners. It was estimated that 1200 women operated in the area.

Around Monto today, there’s plenty to see and do, including visiting the Three Moons silo art just out of town, the heritage museum, which is jam-packed with local memorabilia, and following the interesting but quirky cow trail that leads you around town to various points of interest. The main street has an early-1900s feel to it, with heritage buildings, a cultural centre and street art along Lister Street.

1

Heading to Kroombit from Monto, I wandered up Cania Road and turned off towards the locality of Moonford, an easy 67km away. Moohan Creek Road has directions towards the park and passes through cattle and cropping properties. There are a few gates, but just leave them as you find them.

It’s a beautiful 70km drive heading towards Kroombit, with plenty of little creek crossings and scenic views. During the dry there’s no need for 4×4, but that would change during the wet, with higher creek levels and muddy hill climbs. At the park entry, the road changes to Clewleys Gap Road and is recommended for high-clearance vehicles, as there are more serious steep sections, a few blind corners and it’s pretty rutty. Queensland Parks (↗) suggests this road is okay for off-road trailers, but nothing less capable.

At the top of the ridge along Clewleys Gap Road is a Kroombit Tops National Park information board with a stack of park info. It suggests taking a photo of the park’s 4×4 tracks, as there’s not much mobile reception at Kroombit.

1

Kroombit Tops tracks, camping and lookouts

The next port of call, just up the track, is the Rainforest Walk.

This tiny pocket is very unexpected, and something you’d expect to see along the coastline rather than in a dry timber forest, but it all stems from volcanic activity millions of years ago that left behind rich red soil and an array of sub-rainforest trees, palms and ferns.

Another spot to stop at is the Kroombit Tops Lookout, where on a fine day you can see as far as Gladstone on the coast. There’s a toilet here, seating at the lookout and plenty of interpretive signs to explain how significant this area is. The lookout provides spectacular views into the eastern escarpment, looking over the Boyne Valley, and down below you can see ribbons of dark green rainforest among the paler eucalypt woodlands.

1

The forests of Kroombit Tops are also the southernmost point where the rare and endangered Semon’s leaf-nosed bat is found. This little creature is only found from here north to the tip of Cape York. There are only four vehicle tracks through the park, and Tableland Road is the main access point, with the other tracks shooting off it. It’s also where you’ll find the Griffiths Creek day-use and camping area, just 11km from the lookout.

It’s a peaceful setting with huge grassy sites, fire rings, non-potable water taps and, surprisingly, a dump point for portable toilets. There are no toilets here – only back at the lookout – so either come prepared or it’s going to be a drive every day. The camping area is accessible from the north along Tableland Road from Calliope, if you’re here for the day or exploring in an SUV.

1

Beautiful Betsy and the Bomber 4×4 Track

Apart from the amazing geology, most visitors come to Kroombit to visit Beautiful Betsy, a WWII Liberator bomber that crashed into a remote part of the park in 1945.

She was a B-24D heavy bomber that served just one mission into Timor in 1943, but suffered significant damage, only to be hit by a storm a year later before damaging her undercarriage on landing. Betsy was decommissioned, as the damage was too great to send her back into combat, and after being stripped of her wartime colours and interior, she was put back to work as a freight plane flying all over Australia, as well as being used as a parachute-jump training aircraft. The plane was named after the pilot’s beautiful wife, Betsy.

In 1945, she was on her last run from Darwin to Brisbane with six crew members and two passengers on board, never to be seen or heard from again for 49 years. It was only when a park ranger was back-burning in an isolated section of Kroombit that he spotted the wreckage.

1

Notification was sent to America, and a team from Hawaii was sent out to comb the area for personal items, medals and skeletal remains. One of the two passengers on board was British Flight Officer Albert Cannon, who was finally on his way to Brisbane to marry his sweetheart. His best man, Flight Lieutenant John Cook, was also on board.

The plane never arrived and no-one knew anything for 49 years. There’s very limited information on what actually happened, but suggestions are that the plane may have been flying low under dense cloud or ran into trouble at daylight. Investigators found that no parachutes had been opened, the landing gear was still up and the plane hit the ridgeline mid-fuselage. The wings were snapped off and the four engines were found a hundred metres up into the bush with twisted props, indicating the plane was at full throttle.

The Bomber 4×4 Track takes you to The Wall carpark, and it’s from here that the 1.6km walking trail to the crash site begins. It’s a quiet place as you meander around the walking track, looking at pieces of the plane where they came to rest after breaking off during impact. There’s also a memorial plaque to the eight servicemen who passed away, just near the main fuselage.

1

Razorback Track and 4×4 route to Biloela

Back out at the carpark, you can head out along the Bomber Track or tackle the Ridge Track, which is one-way only back out to Tableland Road. Rated as a moderate 15km track, it has steep drop-offs, rocky hill climbs and cliff-line views.

I decided to head east from Kroombit down the Razorback Track, which is for high-clearance 4x4s only and is closed during wet weather. It starts near Griffiths Creek camping area and travels for nearly 30km towards Biloela. Most of the track is a beautiful drive along the ridgelines, with stunning views back into the park, highlighting just how rugged and isolated it is. At certain points along the way there are steep climbs, switchbacks and blind crests that will keep you on your toes. Allow two hours to get down to the park boundary and another hour to get out to civilisation. Towing is prohibited for these reasons, and it’s regarded as the park’s most isolated track. Queensland Parks will close it during wet weather.

My trip ended at Biloela, which is a service town for local mines, but there’s plenty to see and do in the region. Just out of town is Mount Scoria, a rugged basalt column that is the last remaining volcanic plug from the area’s former volcanic activity. Twenty-five million years ago, lava spewed out of this vent, covering much of the landscape. The local Gangulu people call the mountain Dangama Mungar, which means talking mountain. It’s a fascinating formation with huge basalt columns around the base.

The town’s heritage centre is a must-visit to delve into local history, with many different displays from the region. While there are only a couple of 4×4 tracks in Kroombit National Park, it’s a fascinating place to explore and camp for several days.

1

Kroombit Tops National Park FAQs

Where is Kroombit Tops National Park?

Kroombit Tops National Park is 400km north-west of Brisbane and 100km south-west of Gladstone in Queensland. Access is available from the north, west and south, depending on your vehicle. The nearest towns are Biloela and Monto, both around 60km away.

What is there to see and do at Kroombit Tops?

It’s a remote and isolated park where you can camp, visit a WWII plane crash site and tackle the 4×4 tracks. Monto and Biloela have heritage centres and museums, while Kroombit Tops itself has a cool climate, rugged sandstone cliffs and elevations approaching 900m. The main attraction is the WWII bomber crash site.

What are the 4×4 tracks like at Kroombit Tops?

Conventional SUVs can access Kroombit from the north along Tableland Road, which is also suitable for towing. The Razorback Track to the west, down to Biloela, is for high-clearance 4x4s only. Towing is prohibited and the track may be closed in wet weather by Queensland Parks.

From Monto, Mahoon Creek Road is also recommended for high-clearance 4x4s, with several creek crossings and a steep, rocky climb up Clewleys Gap. Towing is allowed with decent off-road trailers. The 4×4 tracks within the park are fine in the dry, but low range will be needed when wet.

Where can you camp at Kroombit Tops?

Griffiths Creek is the main camping area and a good base for exploring the park, with large grassy sites, fire rings, a dump point and non-potable water. There are no toilets, so come prepared. Razorback camping area has limited sites and no facilities, while Kroombit Tops Lookout has spectacular views and a pit toilet.

What facilities are available near Kroombit Tops?

Biloela, Monto and Calliope have facilities to stock up before heading to Kroombit, plus heritage centres and local attractions. Campsite bookings need to be done online (↗). The walk to the WWII crash site is heritage listed and suitable for anyone with a moderate fitness level.