ATTITUDES to four-wheel drivers have changed a lot over the past 10 years or so… probably because just about everyone drives a 4×4 these days.
Throughout the almost eight years I sat in the editor’s chair at 4X4 Australia, from 2002 to 2009, 4WDers seemed to cop a lot of crap from other road users, egged on by special interest groups and big corporations.
As a result I often found myself defending the rights of 4WDers through the mainstream media in newspapers, on talkback radio and via morning TV shows and current affairs programs. Drivers of passenger sedans and hatchbacks used to complain that large 4WDs blocked their view in traffic and other such nonsense.
So they picked on them, claiming “4WDs have no place in the city” and “the only reason people drive 4WDs is they have small egos”, or even nastier aspersions such as “they drive a big 4WD to make up for their small appendages”. This is the kind of fodder mainstream media thrives on: find an easy target the majority of its audience resents and give ’em hell.
Special interest groups such as the Pedestrian Council of Australia (PCA) fed the fire with inflammatory language, pumping out absurd press releases with titles labelling 4WDs as “Urban Assault Vehicles” and calling on special licences and age restrictions for drivers of 4WDs weighing more than two tonnes.
Streuth! If that were the case today then just about everyone would have a ‘special’ licence. Several years ago during a live radio interview I was ambushed by the self-appointed chairman of the PCA, Harold Scruby.
The station had prearranged an interview with me to ostensibly talk about that year’s 4X4 Of The Year winner, but when discussing the topic the presenter suddenly asked for Scruby’s opinion – up until that point I had no idea this bloke was on the other line.
An argument ensued and, after the interview, I made a note to add said radio station to my blacklist. On another occasion I was invited to debate the PCA Chairman on Channel 9’s The Today Show about the increased use of 4WDs in urban areas or some such thing.
I obliged and, although I presented my opinions in a well-informed and calm manner, afterwards I reflected that there really is no arguing with someone who seems overwhelmed by emotion and irrational thought.
In 2005 another mob called The Australia Institute released an absurd web paper titled ‘Who Drives 4WDs?’ which made claims based on Roy Morgan research that stated things such as “City drivers of 4WDs also tend to be more obese, with two thirds (66 per cent) being overweight or obese compared to 57 per cent of the population overall” and “In their attitudes, city drivers of large 4WDs are morally more conservative and less community orientated than other drivers.”
What a crock! Apparently the Roy Morgan research was based on data collected from 24,718 respondents aged 14 and over. If they were asking 14-year-olds for their opinions on the topic, I can only imagine how skewed the questions must have been. Nevertheless, I headed over to the Channel 9 studios once again, this time to debunk the web paper’s findings in front of another breakfast TV audience.
Then there was the big insurance company that commissioned research to show that in urban collisions between large 4WDs and small passenger cars, the small cars came out second best.
Now anyone with even the slightest understanding of physics could figure that one out without commissioning a research paper, so why the hell did an insurance company (which, by the way, insures both large 4WDs and small passenger cars) feel the need to head down this path?
Embarrassingly, just after being interviewed by Today Tonight regarding the matter, I drove a large 4WD into the back of a small car. But I digress… These days the mainstream media seems to have moved on from bagging 4WDers on a regular basis, probably because most of their audience now drives a 4×4. Either that or they’ve simply found something else to have a go at.
IT COMES as no surprise that the common Aussie ute has enjoyed growing success over the last decade.
This article was first published in 4×4 Australia’s April 2012 issue.
With the amount of combinations available, utes offer a great deal of practicality to a wide range of people. But with so many brands available, how do you work out which will suit you best? For Andrew Cargin, it was a simple matter of ticking the check boxes.
It had to be robust, well-made and priced fairly. Being an astute fellow, Andrew admitted that an Isuzu D-Max would not be the first name that springs to mind for many folk. However, as Andrew pointed out, compare features, performance and fuel consumption and the D-Max adds up to a solid case with a good return of bang for your buck.
Isuzu is known for building tough trucks and robust diesel engines. That provides a level of confidence in the product; plus with the money he saved, there was a tidy bit more to spend on accessories.
Now here’s the kicker – Andrew was originally looking at a 2WD, it was his wife Karen who put forth a solid business case and justification for the little extra investment to get the 4X4 version. Your wife’s a clever woman, Andrew.
After all the research, Andrew and Karen happily took possession of a brand-new 2010 LS five-speed manual 3.0-litre turbo D-Max dual cab (affectionately known as Max).
While Max the dual cab has commercial origins, his duties reflect just how adaptable these vehicles are to the enjoyment and pursuit of recreational activities, with Andrew and Karen spending any free time available away touring and exploring to find those secluded spots for fishing and camping.
Starting with a good solid base, it’s then the modifications – to suit the individual needs of the owner – which culminate in making a great touring rig. While the D-Max has sufficient numbers to deal with most situations, it never hurts to have a few extra ponies on tap when pulling a load or negotiating difficult terrain.
2017 Isuzu D-Max and MU-X launched
Whether travelling dusty gravel tracks or fording creeks, Andrew keeps the air clean, cool and dry for the 3.0-litre diesel via a Safari Snorkel, allowing the engine performance enhancement Chip It diesel tuning chip to work its magic. From the smile on Andrew’s face, the results speak for themselves.
Throttle response is crisp, and the diesel feels more assertive during overtaking manoeuvres, yet still returns a respectable fuel figure. The D-Max is also fitted with an electronic exhaust gas temperature (EGT) sensor to keep a watchful eye on engine stress levels, along with a turbo timer allowing sufficient time for temperatures to normalise after a heavy haul.
Obviously we all need to carry gear on our trips away, and utes are hard to beat for storage room. An ARB canopy was added to the tub to provide security and weather protection for the rear drawer system, with some Rola roof bars up top for the longer, bulkier items.
With all that gear, the OEM suspension looked a bit soft, so Andrew opted for a more robust set-up incorporating a full Tough Dog Suspension system consisting of matched heavy-duty shocks and springs that have provided a 50mm lift.
Not only has the D-Max benefitted from some extra ground clearance, but both on- and off-road ride comfort is significantly improved with greater stability in the corners. And it puts the limited slip diff more effectively to work, leveraging the improved wheel articulation for ruts and washaways.
To make sure he doesn’t waste any of the suspension flex offered by the Tough Dog set-up, Andrew enlisted the help of some Dick Cepek F-C II all-terrain 265/75 R16s running on the standard alloy rims. Having quality frontal protection to minimise vehicle damage and provide improved occupant safety is a must.
Andrew fitted a black powder-coated Opposite Lock steel bullbar complete with a Kingone 9500lb electric winch to lend a hand when Andrew needs to be self sufficient in recovery. Andrew’s also installed a Redarc dual battery controller to make sure the main starter stays in tip-top condition with a second battery located in the rear to feed the Engel 40L fridge keeping the food fresh and the drinks cold.
It also provides any other power for camping requirements. There’s also an electronic brake controller for when Karen and Andrew decide to hook up the camper trailer for longer trips into more remote locations. With any long trip it’s not about simply getting to the destination, there are always lots of interesting distractions and exploratory sojourns along the way.
If Andrew and Karen find a picturesque spot and decide to stop for lunch, within minutes they’ve got a comfortable undercover shaded area. Thanks to the FoxWing awning they’re quickly out of the sun, enjoying a cold drink or simply the tranquillity of their surrounds.
And if the sun should run out before the fun – not a problem; the D-Max has an impressive set of Lightforce Genesis driving lights up front guaranteed to part the dark curtain of night.
Stepping in to let Karen take a rest from navigating, there’s a VMS in-dash double-DIN touch screen system which provides the interface for both street and off-road navigation duties, with the added bonus of audio integration and a reversing camera.
If Karen falls asleep and the VMS refuses to speak with the satellites overhead, Andrew can always check in with the others in the convoy, thanks to the very tidy GME 3340 40-channel UHF radio, which is perfect for any vehicle with limited dash real estate as the main unit is very compact and all the relevant function buttons are housed directly on the handset.
I asked Andrew how he’d rate the overall experience of setting up a D-Max? He told me the D-Max just feels robust and reliable. “The accessories we’ve fitted have made us self-sufficient and more comfortable. I’m really impressed with the diesel, especially now the Chip It enhancement has unleashed its potential without any real detriment to the fuel consumption.”
I also asked Andrew if there was anything he’d change. “I’d like to change out the two front seats to something more suitable for the long hours in the saddle. They’re a bit basic and that’s probably from the vehicle’s commercial origins. They’re okay for around town or maybe a few hours, but more than that and they start to leave you a little saddle sore.
I’d probably go for a Razorback canopy next time; I’d like the convenience of having central locking.” Andrew did mention that of all the accessories fitted the most important so far have been the bar and lights for safety – oh and he was rather keen on how the dual battery system kept his fridge humming and the ales at the end of the day icy cold.
DOES your holiday checklist include beach and bush, fabulous scenery, fun activities and demand interesting tracks to punt the fourby along?
This article was first published in 4×4 Australia’s May 2012 issue.
Then it’s time you headed three hours south of Perth to the Margaret River wine region. Given the travel distance, the region lends itself better to a mini-break than a weekender, unless you pack light and choose a bush eco-cabin, farm-stay, B&B, hotel, motel, apartment or five-star resort – depending on your style and budget.
The caravan parks here are near sensational beaches. Assuming you’re fully kitted for unassisted stays, choose a well-maintained bush camp managed by the Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC). We focused on travelling top to tail along the south-west edge of Oz, from Cape Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leeuwin in the south.
The northern cape forms a neat triangle of attractions, with the Cape Naturaliste lighthouse at the peak and two potential bases for your trip – Dunsborough and Yallingup – filling out the corners.
The bustling tourist town of Dunsborough, on Geographe Bay, guards the entrance to the beautiful and rugged Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park that stretches 120km from Bunker Bay in the north to Augusta in the south.
The major features of the area were named in 1801 as two French ships, the Geographe and the Naturaliste, explored the southern land collecting, at the time, strange new plants and animals and seeking to make contact with the native people.
Baron Hamelin, the captain of the Naturaliste, was given much credit for the success of the trip because he was prepared to risk his vessel in stormy waters, sailing into uncharted bays and river mouths to permit surveying and scientific investigation.
A visit to the top of the cape is a full day of activities, so head out of Dunsborough early, and drive up the right side of the cape through coastal bush scrub along Cape Naturaliste Road. Take a right-hand detour down to the clearly signposted turn-offs to Eagle or Bunker bays; both offer stunning, sheltered beaches perfect for swimming and snorkelling.
If you’re towing a tinnie, head out for some fishing or to Point Piquet to dive on the Destroyer Escort HMAS Swan that was scuttled in 1997 after 10,000 hours of hard work by hundreds of volunteers. It now forms a spectacular artificial reef with 12 moorings.
Private boats need a dive permit, obtainable from the Busselton or Dunsborough visitors’ centres. Pick up a tourist map while at the centres for a full list of regional attractions. Since 1844, at least 12 ships have come to grief in the strong currents and dangerous reefs off the sharp tip of Cape Naturaliste.
The protective guardian warding away ships was built in 1903 from limestone quarried from nearby Bunker Bay; the top of the lighthouse is 123 metres above sea level.
It is Australia’s most accessible lighthouse with only 59 steps to the top; the views across the cape and the Indian Ocean are spectacular and the tour guides pleasant and knowledgeable, offering fascinating facts about the isolated life of the keepers who were often exposed to serious occupational hazards – such as the mercury in which the heavy lens of the light was floated to reduce friction.
Mercury vapour was the most likely cause of the madness that regularly afflicted keepers, although the insanity was originally blamed on the absence of human companions. Mercury definitely caused at least one loss of life at Cape Naturaliste. During construction, a heavy jar of mercury was lost overboard during unloading at Quindalup jetty.
A sailor dived into the rough seas to retrieve the valuable cargo but drowned in a futile attempt to find the jar in the murky depths. Stunning scenery rewards on the 1.3km walk out to the tip of the cape along flat sandy tracks. Take binoculars to view seals sunning themselves on the rocks or to watch whales frolicking in the ocean.
Hundreds of whales travel close to the coast from June to December. Humpbacks and southern right whales are most common, although enormous blue whales are regularly spotted. If you’re in the mood for a serious hike, start down the 135km Cape-to-Cape track that runs along the spine of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge.
It alternates between spectacular sweeping cliff-top views, stretches of pristine beach, meandering paths through sheltered bush and the breathtaking tall-tree splendour of the Boranup karri forest.
Allow at least five days to tackle the challenging track, or hike smaller stretches leaving from regular access points between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. For a faster trip between the capes, head back down Cape Naturaliste Road and turn right into Sugarloaf Rock Road.
Sugarloaf is among the most photogenic spots along the coast with impressive rock formations pounded by tumbling ocean waves spraying 30m into the air. Skilful divers will enjoy the deep narrow gully between the rock and mainland on the rare occasions when the sea is calm, with extensive reef to explore, prolific sea life and exceptional visibility.
On the southern side of Sugarloaf Rock Road, 400m in from Cape Naturaliste Road is the first taste of genuine 4X4 track on the cape. Three Bears Track will defeat the most determined two-wheel driver, unless they have the skills of Mika Hakkinen. However, fourbies should have no problem on the soft sand and rocky ledges.
It offers a few challenges without any major risks – just take care on all tracks in the region for sharp limestone outcroppings that have been known to stake a tyre of the unwary or over-confident. There are no confusing side tracks that don’t show up on a map, just follow the track until you get to one of the region’s most popular surf beaches.
Three Bears is so named because it comprises three waves of reducing size and difficulty and – you guessed it – they’re known as Papa Bear’s, Mama’s, and Baby’s. The track to the south of the beach is a longer run than off Sugarloaf Rock Road, again sandy trails with a bit of limestone.
Conveniently, the track comes out on Hemsley Road – home of the Bush Shack Brewery. This family-run microbrewery offers an array of beers to suit all tastes. Hemsley Road leads back out onto Caves Road – Dunsborough to your left and Yallingup to the right.
If the light’s not fading and the energy levels are still up, Ngilgi Cave is the first of the stunning caves open to the public along the aptly named Caves Road, which runs most of the way down the coast to Cape Leeuwin.
Originally known as Yallingup Cave, Ngilgi offers a range of tours from semi-guided walks through to full-on adventure crawls deeper below the surface. The most common story of the start of the mammoth tourism industry in the area is of Edward Dawson stumbling across the cave while searching for a stray horse in 1899.
He started hosting guided tours in 1900 and the cave’s popularity saw it installed with electric lights in 1903 and resulted in the establishment of the historic Yallingup Caves Hotel in 1905 to cater for the fascinated crowds travelling to the area.
Ngilgi has been the site of two world cave-sitting records, numerous weddings and local legend has it that Dame Nellie Melba gave a concert there before she went on to become a world-famous opera singer. Around the bend from Ngilgi, Caves Road continues down the coast, or you can head into Yallingup for the night.
Absorb the history of the Caves Hotel and have a meal in the shady beer garden, lux out at the modern Seashells Villas, or set up at one of the two tidy caravan parks. Caves Road twists down south at a leisurely pace. During peak season, traffic is steady with few opportunities to pass, so be patient and enjoy the drive.
It’s less than 100km from Dunsborough down to Augusta, but with so many choices of things to do along the way, you’ll have to choose some highlights on each trip to the region. The Wardan Aboriginal Cultural Centre offers a fascinating insight into the culture and history of the traditional landowners of the region.
Developed and run by the local Wardandi people to promote reconciliation and community understanding, it includes an interpretive centre with traditional clothing, artefacts and weapons that permit some hands-on activities, plus an indigenous art gallery. Time to head out to the beach.
Turn right into the clearly signposted Contos Road towards Lake Cave. With 350 steps down to the cave entrance, be prepared to catch your breath a few times on the way back up. The lake inside the cave acts as a perfect mirror, with the reflections of crystal formations doubling the beauty of the scene.
Take the left fork to head down Contos Road on 1.7km of bitumen to the excellent DEC-managed Contos Field campsite. Unfortunately, the sites can’t be booked in advance and fill up during peak holiday periods. They provide a great range of spots for tents, campers and caravans.
For the most peaceful camp zone in the area, head left off Contos Road down Point Road, about 5km in from Caves Road. It’s 2km down a narrow 4X4 track that can be rocky and require good clearance to the 10 Point Road campsites. Your most active neighbours are likely to be the local brushtail possums who become very lively at dusk.
A southern brown bandicoot or two may also make an appearance to say a shy hello. No caravans, but 4X4 campervans are okay. Turn right into Georgette Road, approximately 200m south of the campsite. The narrow 4X4 tracks meander through the tranquil Boranup Forest.
Drive slowly; the single-lane tracks offer few opportunities for passing, so expect some reversing if you meet an oncoming vehicle. Boranup Drive is a well-graded tourist drive that parallels Caves Road and provides 2WD vehicles with the opportunity to access lovely picnic spots, the Boranup campsite and take in the splendour of this isolated patch of karri – the tallest-growing hardwood tree in the world.
What you see is regrowth of about 100 years – the last mill at Karridale closed in 1913. Head south down Boranup Drive to return to Caves Road. Turn right to continue the journey to Cape Leeuwin with two worthwhile detours to consider. The first is the poorly signposted Reserve Road – known to locals as Bob’s Track.
It’s 600m north of Bushby Road and 3.9km from the Hamelin Bay-Caves Road intersection. Definitely 4X4-only, the track provides the best beach access for a fourby along the coast. The track heads up over a craggy limestone ridge with careful foot-printing essential. It becomes a sandy track as it nears the beach, 3.6km from the main road.
As the track runs due west, it’s best not tackled late afternoon when you’re heading into the setting sun. Boranup Beach is well worth the drive. It’s the longest continuous beach along this coastline, sweeping up from Hamelin Bay in the south to North Point. Hamelin Bay is a peaceful open bay renowned for its profusion of friendly stingrays.
Being surrounded by stingrays measuring up to two metres across is an amazing experience; or you can stay in the shallows as the stingrays come close to feed on scraps tossed by obliging fishermen. From Hamelin it’s a short drive down the Bussell Highway to Augusta on the Blackwood River estuary.
Augusta was originally settled in 1830 as a farming community. It was largely deserted when better farming lands opened up to the north in the Vasse district, and re-established on the back of the timber trade until that too faded early in the 20th century. It’s now a relaxing holiday destination for tourists, with a strong local population of retirees and weekenders.
Flinders Bay houses the Whale Rescue memorial to commemorate Augusta’s magnificent volunteer achievement in 1986 of successfully returning to the sea 96 of 114 beached false killer whales. The Cape Leeuwin lighthouse, built where the Indian and Southern oceans crash together, marks the tail of our trip.
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Sparkling blue under summer skies, or grey-green thumping surf spearing foam skyward in winter, fills the almost 360-degree view. While there, check out the historic water wheel. Originally built to pump fresh spring water to the lighthouse, the minerals in the still-flowing water have petrified the entire wheel into eerie stillness.
Now, time to decide which are your favourite spots to re-visit and to plan your next trip to take in all the other locations you just couldn’t fit in.
TRAVEL PLANNER
GETTING THERE Around three hour’s drive from Perth down the Kwinana Freeway to Mandurah and efficient, but visually tedious, Forrest Highway link to Bunbury.
WHERE TO STAY Check out regional websites for options. With short distances, it’s possible to stay at the top, bottom or middle of the region and daytrip in any direction. Tourism website margaretriver.com has great search tools to find details on accommodation and local attractions.
For information on bush campsites such as Conto’s, Point Road or Boranup, visit dec.wa.gov.au/campgrounds.
MAPS Hema’s Western Australia 4WD Top 50
BEST TIME TO VISIT Summer is the only time for swimming in the cool waters – with the strong prevailing winds moving inland as a natural airconditioner keeping the region much cooler than Perth. Spring is best for wildflowers. Winter can be cold and wet.
WE’VE become quite fond of the G-Pro wagon since we snared a pre-launch drive of one back in May this year.
The actual launch was then delayed and only happened in August, when we took a few of them across the Simpson Desert with explorer Mike Horn as reported on last issue. That drive reaffirmed our affinity for the military-spec Benz and, once the cars were back in Melbourne and cleaned up after the desert trip, we claimed one for a longer drive.
The G-Pro we have for the next three months is the same one we drove back in May, and it was with us on the desert trip. It still has the scarred wheels from the High Country and red dust under the floor mats to show for its previous action, but these little things don’t bother us one bit.
What we like about the bare-bones Pro model is its authenticity. This is a stripped-out vehicle made for off-road use, either in the hands of adventurers or military departments. There are no pretentions, no airs and graces, and no luxuries with this Mercedes-Benz wagon. This is a pure work truck.
For our first week with the G300 we thought we’d see how it compared with its higher specified, more luxurious sibling, the G350d. Aside from the close-to-$50K price discrepancy, the G350d gets the full luxury interior with a totally different dashboard, big electric leather seats, a much better sound system, and plush carpets among its many extras.
Yet it’s only the little things we miss in the G-Professional: the inability to Bluetooth your telephone conversations on the road or link up your music player; the crappy audio system; the lack of sat-nav; and having to put the key in the door lock and unlock the car. All are annoyances but certainly not deal breakers.
Mechanically the G-Professional is built on the heavier duty 461 platform, while the G350d is on the more comfortable 463. They both utilise a ladder-frame chassis, live axles front and rear, coil spring suspension, triple diff locks and a 3.0-litre V6 diesel engine.
Yet, the G350d’s engine is tuned to make 540Nm and the Pro only gets 400Nm; and the 350d has a seven-speed automatic transmission while the G-Pro makes do with only five ratios. Both have dual range transfer cases, though. When driving the two Gs on roads and tracks, they are chalk and cheese.
The 350d has much more grunt in all conditions and its auto is far more refined and precise. The G300 Pro feels asthmatic and restrained in its power delivery, and the shifts from the old auto are more pronounced and harsh.
The G350d was fitted with 16-inch alloy wheels and tyres, as opposed to the 19s that come standard on it, as this vehicle had done some outback travel before we got it. The 16s are certainly more suitable in the bush than 19s with low profile tyres, and the BFGoodrich all-terrains, as fitted to the G-Pro, are better again.
The 350d has firm-riding gas shock absorbers which are great on road compared to the oil-filled shocks, which are more compliant on the Professional. So which is the better G-Wagen for everyday and off-road use?
Maybe I’m going soft in my old age, but as much as I like the pure authenticity of the Professional, I do miss the comfort and convenience features and the added performance of the G350d.
If I was in the market for either of them I’d find the extra $50K needed and get the added luxury and performance, but I’d option it with the wheels, tyres and suspension package from the Professional model. That could be the perfect G for Australian conditions.
Then again, Mike Horn’s V8-powered G500s riding on 16s did bellow out a sweet tune as they blasted over the desert dunes.
Total km: 9897km Date acquired: SEP 2017 Price: $119,890 Km this month: N/A Av fuel: N/A
THE historic seaside village of Port Fairy can be found on the Victorian coastline that’s also known as the Shipwreck Coast.
This article was first published in 4×4 Australia’s September 2011 issue.
Conditions along this coastline are notoriously unpredictable and treacherous; the weather can change suddenly and huge swells can spring up with little warning. Numerous ships have been lost and incredible stories of bravery and self-sacrifice have been recorded.
One of the most tragic shipwreck stories is the loss of the SS Casino. Over a period of almost 50 years, SS Casino made around 2500 trips between Melbourne and the western ports, including Port Fairy. On July 10, 1932, the ship was damaged while trying to dock at Apollo Bay in a strong south-easterly gale.
The captain then made for the beach, but the ship was rapidly taking on water and sank some 400m from the sand. Several Apollo Bay residents on the shore attempted heroic rescues at great personal risk. Nine people were saved from the raging surf, but ten were lost, including the stewardess who had fitted life jackets to her passengers but did not have time to fit her own.
The propeller and bell of SS Casino now form a memorial at King George Square in Port Fairy, and the ship’s wheel is displayed at the Apollo Bay Hotel. Port Fairy also has a lighthouse which is situated on Griffiths Island and a two-hour walk will take you right around its circumference.
The island is home to swamp wallabies and a large colony of mutton-birds. The birds arrive in September after an amazing 15,000km migratory flight from the Aleutian Islands, near Alaska. They nest in burrows beneath tussocks in the sand.
From late September to mid-April, masses of silhouetted birds can be seen at dusk as they return to their burrows from their daily feeding trips. Hugh Haldane was the lighthouse keeper on Griffiths Island in the early 1930s. He lived in one of the keeper’s cottages with his wife and two sons.
Life was isolated with big seas making it difficult to get in and out of the lighthouse and sometimes cutting off the island altogether. Hugh would get a year’s supply of firewood in one hit and only go into town for provisions once a month. Today, the lighthouse is still operational on wind and solar power, but the cottages were demolished in the 1950s.
Locals describe Port Fairy as “magic” and it isn’t hard to see why. The many 19th century buildings are evidence of an era when business was thriving and the port was the second busiest in Australia. The wharf is a wonderful place to relax and, of course, enjoy the best fish and chips.
The Norfolk pines and colonial buildings form a picturesque backdrop to the tranquil waters of the Moyne River. For a bit of mystery, you can take the Mahogany Walking Track and maybe become the one to solve the mystery of the Mahogany Ship.
In 1836, two men succeeded in reaching the shore after their sealing boat capsized in the surf near the mouth of the Hopkins River. They walked back along the coast to Port Fairy and reportedly found the wreck of a vessel which they thought was Spanish, because of the colour of the timber.
The discovery was reported to the harbour master, Captain Mills, who took bearings of the wreck and alerted the appropriate authority. This is just one of many sightings of the Mahogany Ship between 1836 and the early 1890s. However, it is suspected that during this time the wreck was covered by drifting sands and it has never been found.
Some believe that the Mahogany Ship was a Portuguese caravel captained by Christopher de Mendonca, lost in the early 1500s. If this is the case, it may prove the theory that the Portuguese visited Victoria’s coastline 250 years before James Cook laid claim to the continent.
For a weekend of magic, pay a visit to Port Fairy. It’s one of those quintessential country towns with an old pub on every corner still offering true hospitality. And if you do stumble upon the mysterious Mahogany Ship, let me know!
TRAVEL PLANNER
WHERE Port Fairy is 28km west of Warrnambool in south-west Victoria.
GETTING THERE Port Fairy is on the coast and accessible via the Princes Highway.
CAMPING There are seven caravan parks in Port Fairy. Southcombe by the Sea Caravan Park is closest to the ocean with spacious and grassy campsites. It is open between early December and the end of April. Bookings are necessary during school holidays and long weekends ([email protected]).
WHAT TO BRING Port Fairy has a large IGA supermarket as well as a butcher and a bakery – not to mention the many wonderful coffee shops and restaurants.
THINGS TO DO Walk around Griffiths Island and visit the lighthouse, take the historic walk around Port Fairy, enjoy fish and chips at the wharf, be amazed at the cannon and gun position relics on Battery Hill, take a stroll along the beach and spoil yourself with a cuppa and cake in one of the many cosy coffee shops.
YOU’LL have to excuse me while I indulge myself a little.
Fifty years ago this month, my mate and I headed off across the Nullarbor in the first vehicle I ever owned: an FJ Holden. Back then, the highway – the term was used loosely – was dirt from Ceduna in SA to Norseman in WA. It was 1200km of bulldust, corrugations and potholes you could lose a truck tyre in.
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The wide road dodged this way and that to circumnavigate the worst sections but, as there was no indication as to which was the better route to take, you were in the lap of the gods on the best way to go – when we got to Norseman, we crawled out of the car and kissed the bitumen.
Back then, we didn’t know anything. We just grabbed our diving gear – we were into spearfishing and were heading to WA for the Australian Skindiving Championships – an old sleeping bag to throw down on the ground, and some tinned tucker, tea, milk and sugar to sustain us.
We lived roughly and cheaply, and for fresh food we either shot rabbits when we were in the bush or speared fish when we were on the coast. Maybe that was when I got sick of eating fish.
Before the sojourn across the Nullarbor, I remember one trip when we were camped at Wanna, south of Port Lincoln, and one of us had to get up each morning, climb down the cliff and go and shoot a fish for breakfast. But back to the Nullarbor trip.
Even basic requirements like taking a second spare tyre wasn’t in our plans, while the tool repair kit consisted of what came with the car in the first place (which wasn’t much). We didn’t bother with any spare parts as we couldn’t afford them; plus, we didn’t have any tools to fit them if any were required.
We didn’t have a recovery kit (was there such a thing then?), and we had an esky but no ice to put in it. Still, the trip was pretty uneventful. We busted a uni joint while ploughing through deep sand somewhere on the south-west coast of WA while looking for a spearing spot.
We walked and hitchhiked back to the championship venue and cadged a vehicle off someone to go and recover our FJ. Then on the way home we had a puncture about 20km west of Eucla.
I can remember arguing with the then owner/manager of the servo about the cost of a tube, which was something like five to seven times as much as you’d pay in Adelaide; he simply told me to “take it or leave it”.
After that purchase we were broke, so we sat down under the shade of a tree near the servo and boiled the billy until someone we knew from the spearfishing titles came along. We bludged enough money off them to get to Port Augusta, where I had some family friends who supplied us with enough cash to continue our journey.
It took a couple more vehicles (another Holden and an old Pontiac) and a few more crossings of the Nullarbor before we got our first 4WD – a 1956 Willys Jeep Wagoneer. This was fairly quickly followed by a Series 3 Land Rover, where we again thundered across the Nullarbor in 1978, this time with a boat behind.
That three-month jaunt was spent mainly in the Kimberley and, while that trip sold us on 4WDs, the seeds of travel and adventure had been sown much earlier. We’re hoping the seeds of travel and adventure have been sown with you.
AFTER testing a Britz Troopie-based camper for a couple of weeks, Sue was convinced that we had to have one for ourselves.
This article was first published in 4×4 Australia’s April 2011 issue.
We began looking for a pop-top design as the high-roof model would not fit under our carport, and I didn’t fit into the bed too well, either! I also wanted a standard, non turbo-diesel (1HZ), as I am wary that the all electric and computer-controlled later models won’t be as reliable in the more remote places that I want to take the old girl (and the Troopie as well!).
After searching through all the different types of conversions on the market, we decided to go for a KEA conversion. The KEA campers are much better set up in the rear than the others that we looked at, with much better use of the available space and more user-friendly layout.
I contacted Norman Roe, the KEA Campers sales manager in Sydney, and he told me of a 2006 model with 150,000km on the clock that was soon to be available. The only problem? It was in Broome! Not to worry, it was an excuse for a trip and a shakedown for the new Troopie on the run home to Adelaide.
Norman and his team could not have been more helpful. He even provided a new canvas top, and replaced a few other worn or broken bits. With the deal done, Sue and I were on a plane heading to Perth and onwards to Broome.
We picked up the camper and discovered that the fridge, cutlery, cooking gear and everything that was in the camper when it was for hire had been included. It even had both fuel tanks filled! We headed back down the coast and spent a couple of weeks touring West Australia.
We visited Steep Point, which was really the only off-roading of the whole trip as Sue was sick with the flu – although, strangely, she was quite excited about crossing 90 Mile Straight on the Nullarbor. The Troopie was pretty much stock standard, with split rims and a plastic bullbar, so as soon as I got it home it was straight into my workshop to be pulled apart and thoroughly examined.
The first things that went on were a beefed-up gearbox and transfer case, as the standard ones were not going to be strong enough to handle the extra load with bigger tyres, diff locks and a turbo that I had planned for the upgrade.
The standard Toyota suspension was replaced with an Old Man Emu system complete with new springs, shocks, bushes, greasable shackles, steering damper and caster bushes. Next was to replace the ugly plastic bar with an ARB steel winch bar, equipped with a Warn XDC 9.5 winch, ARB side-rails and steps, IPF HID driving lights and covers and an IPF headlight upgrade.
An ARB dual battery kit was next on the list, followed by a set of black ROH steel 16 x 8 Trak 2 rims with Cooper ST-C 285/75-16 tyres with a set of ARB flares to keep it legal and a SensaTyre tyre- monitoring system for peace of mind. Inside, an Outback Interiors top shelf and door pockets along with a GME UHF radio provided storage and communications.
I already had a set of ARB Paratus seats in my trusty old 75 Series trayback, so I swapped these with the standard Toyota seats and fitted some comfy lambswool covers. That was a good start, but then Sue was on my back to let her clean the Troopie and replace the curtains, fit the new canvas top and to generally put her personal touch on the inside.
My other modifications would have to wait… Sue set to work modifying the interior. She replaced the curtains, cleaned the mattress covers along with the seat cushion covers, installed a porta-potty and filled the drawers and cupboards with all of our camping gear, so I could get on with the mechanical modifications.
First on my list was a Denco Turbo upgrade along with a complete Denco exhaust replacement. Now the Troopie performs much better, with heaps more torque down low, where you need it. Next item to go on was a VMS combination navigation and topographic GPS, DVD player and reverse camera with iPod and Bluetooth compatibility.
Silverton Hotel, NSW: Country Pub
These VMS units are great and save having all of those separate items cluttering up the dash, restricting visibility and rattling around in rough country. When the time to test our new home finally arrived, we decided to head over to Yorke Peninsula for the New Year break and enjoy some bush camping along the coast.
The first night was spent camped right on the beach, but the wind was blowing the sand all around us. We are traditionally used to swagging, so it was great to be inside, out of the sand-blasting gale. We replaced the Troopie’s original metho stove with a two-burner gas model, along with the ever-reliable single- burner cartridge stove, so we could keep the sand out of our food.
We spent the next few days travelling along as many sandy tracks as we could find, the OME suspension really coming into its own along some of them as they were very rough in places and in hindsight were probably more suited to a motorbike! Still, what’s a test for if not to exact the best from your new gear?
At one campsite on the southern coast we were camped back from the beach in a hollow behind some sand hills. The wind was extremely strong, to the point that I even considered climbing back down stairs and retracting the top for fear of the wind damaging the pop top!
However, we decided to see how it would stand up in the harsh conditions so, after a sleepless few hours, with the canvas top billowing in and out, the Troopie stood up to the elements soundly. As eventually was our slumber.
The Italian-made fridge that came with the ex-hire vehicle works well, but isn’t big enough for an extended trip, so we opted for a 60-litre Waeco unit that slots in perfectly and have also fitted a Waeco 11-litre compact cooler to use as a freezer or extra fridge space.
We have since bolted up a Kaymar rear-mounted twin spare-wheel carrier; these latest designs are a lot more refined than the previous versions. The bar has a more modern, rounded style and LED lights that will outlast halogens in the bush, as well as very strong stainless steel gas struts holding the arms open.
A softer cover on the handles also makes a welcome change from the old style. We have also had the boys from Out of Town 4X4, in Newcastle, NSW, custom-make a new, larger-capacity 60-litre stainless steel water tank to fit under the rear.
Early last year we took it across the Anne Beadell Highway, down through the Holland track, around the southern coast of WA, before heading home along the Old Eyre Highway. The conditions on the Anne Beadell Highway threw up everything from soft sand and rocks to extreme corrugations.
The rest of the trip varied from smooth blacktop through to rough gravel roads, with a bit of sand and rock tossed in to break things up a little. The Troopie handled everything we put it through with ease, Sue reckons that as a touring option it’s much more comfortable than the old tent and swag.
Easter last year saw us, along with the Ed and his wife, Rachel, tackling the Sandy Blight Junction Road, west of Alice Springs; once again, the Troopie had no problems at all. Adding personal and practical modifications to an ex-hire vehicle has proved a good combination.
We are very happy with the set-up and have many more adventures planned. But, as it is for all of us, we just need to find the time!
IN 1992 a young musician by the name of Lee Kernaghan signed a record deal with ABC Music and released an album called Outback Club.
This article was first published in 4×4 Australia’s July 2012 issue.
The song Boys from the Bush was the first single from that ARIA Award-winning album and would launch Lee on a stellar career. It would also lead to honours including being awarded an Order Of Australia medal in 2004, and being named Australian of the Year in 2008.
Lee says he likes two kinds of music, country and western, and with his rural background, who can blame him? “I grew up in the Riverina. My dad was a truck driver on the Snowy Mountains Scheme.
My grandparents were dairy farmers on my mum’s side, and on my dad’s side they were a droving family – a third-generation family of drovers – so my childhood years were filled up with those sorts of experiences, just being a normal kid growing up in the bush.” So what drove Lee to music?
“My dad used to sing and do the odd gig at the Boomerang Hotel in Albury,” he says. “Later on in the ’70s he started his own record label and distribution company, and started making his own records, and as a teenager I started playing in his band and learning the ropes from my dad.”
Like many country lads, Lee is passionate about Toyotas and has a strong association with the manufacturer. “[My association] initially came about thanks to Toyota’s support of country music, and then later on Toyota became the driving force behind the fundraising tours, and a couple of million dollars was raised out in the bush in communities across Australia for various causes, from drought relief to buying medical equipment for outback hospitals.
“It’s good to be able to perform, put on shows and put on concerts. If they can be fundraisers and you can help the people who need it the most, then it’s probably one of the most rewarding parts of what the job’s all about. “I probably spend six months of the year on the road travelling and there’s some pretty far-flung places that I’ve performed at over the years.
There’s just nothing like it, the feeling you get when you’re heading west. It seems as though whenever you go outback the weight just comes off your shoulders.” So what’s Lee’s current rig of choice?
“I’m currently driving the 200 Series LandCruiser, and I’ve also got an 80 Series Cruiser – a Sahara – that’s become a part of the family and I don’t think I could ever sell it. She’s stock standard, she’s got about 300,000 kays on her and I haven’t had to do a thing to it.
“I remember crossing a flooded causeway years ago, when [the 80 Series] was new and I got caught in a flood and water came over the bonnet and she stopped. And that’s when you really start to ponder the situation that you’ve got yourself into and the capabilities of your vehicle.
Anyway, I hit the ignition again and the old Cruiser, she started right up and drove me straight out of it. How can you ever let a friend like that go?” Lee has seen a lot of outback Australia, touring over the years. “I like a lot of the outback communities,” he says.
“I love western Queensland and South Australia and up around Birdsville. I had one great trip; we left Brisbane, went to Goondiwindi, St George, Cunumulla, headed down to Dirranbandi, and then up to Thargomindah, and we camped at the waterhole at Noccundra.
We also had a camp out at Innamincka on the banks of the Cooper, and we headed out through the Stony Desert up to Birdsville and sort of came back through western Queensland through some of the little towns that I’ve played in over the years, like Yaraka.
“A lot of the time I’m travelling when I’m doing shows and a lot of the time it’s when I’m doing song-writing trips. I get a lot of inspiration from just being out and driving and being out on the road and talking to people. Often it’s just the odd turn of phrase here and there or little town that you drive through, like Texas in Queensland, that inspire the songs.”
There is one place that Lee has yet to visit, and he’s keen as mustard to get there. “Cape York. That’s definitely on my bucket list.” How did Lee react to becoming 2008 Australian of the Year? “Well, it was an absolute shock, but as it sunk in I realised what an honour it was and what a privilege,” he says.
“That was a tough year in country Australia; so many communities in the bush were going through extreme drought, and they’d been going through drought for several years, so I had the opportunity to go out and visit a lot of those people and listen to their stories and try and help wherever possible, but it was a heartbreaking time for many people in the bush.”
It’s 20 years since Lee’s first album. Did he ever think his career would go so far? “No, no!” he insists. “I was lucky in the first place to get a record deal. I’d been knocked back by every record label in Australia, and finally ABC Music said ‘We’ll sign you, we’ll make an album, and if it sells more than 3000 records, you can make a second record [laughs].
It’s now Triple Platinum, a couple of hundred thousand of the Outback Club. And somewhere around two million records have been sold over the last 20 years.” What’s next for Lee Kernaghan? “I’m recording a new album in June that I hope to launch at the Deni Ute Muster this year.
I actually did the first Ute Muster and it was incredible to see so many utes in the one place. I felt right at home… “The one vehicle that I became the most attached to was my 78 Series LandCruiser ute, but after the arrival of my second son, Rock, I couldn’t fit four people across the bench seat, so I had to sell it.
Jillaroo Jess Edwards on outback life
She was fully optioned up, it was just the sort of vehicle you fall in love with. “A young bloke from Kilcoy [Qld] bought it and I remember the day he came to pick it up and he drove it out my driveway… I don’t think there were any tears, but my lip was quivering. I guess my dream vehicle would be a 70 Series dual-cab trayback.”
Favourite place in Australia? “Broome, where the outback meets the sea. I love it so much, that’s where I had my honeymoon. If I could go back once a year, I’d do it.
It’s one of the few places in Australia where you get your four-wheel drive down on to the beach, get out the esky and the fold-out chairs and look out at that big Indian Ocean and have a swim… and for me I don’t think there’s anything better in the whole country.”
SURROUNDED by crumbling ruins, you’d never guess the iconic Silverton Hotel is only 25km from Broken Hill.
The original pub was built in 1884 by John DeBaun, when Silverton was a mining powerhouse. He soon moved it into a two-storey building that burnt down in 1918. In that year the pub moved into its current building, which used to be the town’s post office.
The character-laden main bar of the Silverton Hotel has walls lined with hats, guitars and funny signs, and there’s plenty of old memorabilia about the place. “It’s a hotel and a museum all mixed together,” laughs publican Peter Price.
The pub has a large covered entertainment area and there’s a stage for live music. It also offers great “pub tucker” at affordable prices.
If you’re keen to stay the night, there are seven self-contained units out the back, opposite the ruins of the original two-storey pub. The exterior of the accommodation block is made from recycled timber and iron, but the rooms themselves feature modern décor and offer plenty of space and comfort… and hot showers.
The town of Silverton has attractions including many local artists and the famous Mad Max Museum, and the pub should definitely be at the top of your list the next time you head to outback NSW.
ESSENTIALS Hours: 5am-12pm (Mon-Sat); 10am-10pm (Sun) Beers on tap: XXXX Gold, Tooheys New and Old, and Hahn SuperDry ($7 schooner) Other refreshments: Selection of cans, stubbies, soft drinks, and red and white wines Meals: Breakfast $8.50-$16; Lunch around $12; Dinner $15-$27 Accommodation: $120 for double w/en-suite; $25 per extra person
CONTACT Phone: (08) 8088 5313 Email: [email protected] Website: silvertonhotel.com.au Manager/owner: Peter Price Address: 12 Layard Street, Silverton NSW 2880
ROUNDING a bend on the track I braked to a sudden halt as the sight of a large wedge-tailed eagle perched on a dead tree less than 20m in front of me.
This article was first published in 4×4 Australia magazine’s January 2011 issue.
The freshly killed remains of a large rabbit hung from its razor-sharp talons as the wedgie went through the motions of stripping the meat from the bone. Reaching over to the seat beside me for the binoculars, I slowly raised them to my eyes and began examining the feeding methods of this magnificent bird of prey.
Apparently unperturbed by my presence, the massive golden-brown raptor gorged itself for another 15 minutes before alighting from the branch with rabbit carcass and flying off towards the nearby hills.
Nangar National Park in central west NSW is one of those magic spots where you can be fairly sure of having close encounters with native wildlife during your stay. For me, the place was much nicer than I had originally expected after reading the park brochure before I went there.
Maybe that was partially due to lucky timing, as I visited Nangar a few weeks after recent heavy rain had transformed the normally dry brown landscape around the base of the hills into a carpet of green.
Situated between the wheat and sheep towns of Canowindra and Forbes about 340km west of Sydney, the park protects remnant stands of dense vegetation that was once common throughout this area before land clearing began.
Nangar also supports an amazing array of wildlife including wallaroos, eastern grey kangaroos, swamp wallabies and red-necked wallabies. You may even be lucky enough to spot a koala as they have supposedly been sighted in the park, although I must admit after many hours of neck straining looking for those iconic tree dwelling marsupials I didn’t see one.
Birdlife is also reasonably prolific in this rugged inland wilderness and includes brilliant songsters such as the Gilbert’s Whistler, colourful eastern rosellas and red-rump parrots and the swift flying peregrine falcon.
If you scan the hills you might even see an endangered glossy black cockatoo feeding on the large seeds of the black cypress tree. Nangar is at the western edge of the birds known range and provides an important refuge for the protection of this species.
Encounters with outback wildlife
The tiny town of Eugowra midway between Canowindra and Forbes is the starting point and the nearest place to stock up with food, fuel and water before heading out to the park. Situated on the banks of Mandagery Creek, Eugowra has population of around 700 and services grazing properties in the surrounding district.
First settled around 1860 by gold miners heading out to the Lachlan goldfields, this pretty little village has some lovely old buildings that are worth a look at including the courthouse and the Central Hotel.
From Eugowra, head out of town along the road to Orange for 10km to the park turn-off, which is very well signed and hard to miss. About 3km along the way you will see a small roadside picnic area on the right near Escort Rock which was site of one of Australia’s most audacious robberies.
It was 1862 and gold fever had gripped the district with many miners making their fortunes in the fields. Their hard-earned wealth was normally put on specially escorted gold coaches for the fast dash to secure banks in bigger towns.
But bushrangers Ben Hall and Frank Gardiner and the other six men in their gang had got wind that a very large shipment of the precious metal was on its way and were waiting for the coach as it thundered along the road near Escort Rock.
The gang used two stolen bullock teams to block the road then opened fire on the helpless occupants of the coach when it was forced to stop. Two troopers in the police escort were wounded but managed to escape, allowing the gang to make off with all the loot.
The gang got away with of 2,719 ounces of gold 3,700 pounds in cash, which at today’s gold price is more than $3 million. From the Nangar turn-off, it’s about 2.5km along a gravel road to the national park boundary then another 2km up to the information sign near the site of the old homestead.
Due to the scarcity of water and harsh nature of the terrain, Nangar was never totally cleared like other properties in the surrounding district and much of the original vegetation such as mugga ironbark and black cypress still covers a lot of the park.
Aboriginal people lived and hunted throughout the Nangar region for thousands of years and anthropologists are still finding stone implements and scar trees where bark was removed for shields and food containers.
The first settlers to arrive in Nangar were the Cassey family who came there during the Great Depression in 1928. After constructing a house, small shearing shed and holding yards, this pioneering family used axes and crosscut saws to clear trees along the valleys and creek lines.
A couple of dams were constructed to supply water for the livestock and a small orchard near the homestead, but the general harsh nature of the environment meant the Cassey’s were constantly battling the elements to try and make a living. Drought was a constant problem with the few small creeks on the property often running dry due to lack of rain.
Stock losses were also high due to sheep becoming lost in the thick bush or being taken by dingoes. By the mid 1940’s the family had had enough and moved off the block leaving the property to a succession of other owners until the NPWS purchased the land in 1994. With the addition of Nangar State Forest two years later the park now covers an area of 9196ha.
It’s worth spending an hour or so checking out the hand-hewn timber stockyards and the rusting remains of old vehicles and farm machinery that are scattered around near the old homestead site. Unfortunately some bonehead arsonists burnt the homestead down in September 2009 destroying an irreplaceable part of Australia’s history.
Once you leave the old homestead site the valley starts to become narrower as the track twists and turns for about 3.2km up to Terarra Creek Picnic and Camping Area. The country that you pass through is extremely picturesque with the track crossing Terarra Creek a number of times before it finally reaches the camping ground.
Set in a well grassed shaded area near Terarra Creek, the camping area would be an excellent place to spend a few days if you were looking for peace and quiet as it gets very few visitors.
If you were thinking about going for a swim, however, forget it, as the creek in this area is nothing more than a narrow stream about a metre wide meandering through dense stands of bottlebrush. Rugged, thickly vegetated hills covered with mugga ironbark and Black cypress rise up steeply from the creek making it an excellent place to scan the trees for birds and other wildlife.
The newly constructed camping ground has toilets, picnic tables and fireplaces. If you really feel the need for a small fire make sure that you bring in your own wood from outside the park since fallen timber provides shelter for many native animals.
It is essential that you are carrying adequate drinking water for the length of your stay as Terarra Creek is sometimes bone dry and there are no other water sources in the park. The weather at Nangar can often be extreme, with daily temperatures during the height of summer nudging 40 degrees while nights in mid winter can often drop to zero and below.
From the camping ground it’s only a short 10 minute drive up to Dripping Rock, one of the geological highlights in the park. This stunning rock wall, over which water streams during heavy rain, was formed over countless millions of years by the action of water slowly eroding away the rock.
Even in drier times there is usually a trickle of water dripping down the rock into a pool below. This lovely little waterhole is a magnet for kangaroos, wallaroos, birds and other surrounding wildlife.
Explore more 4×4 Australia destinations
Much of the area around Dripping Rock was cleared for grazing prior to the area being gazetted a national park, but nature is slowly coming back with the conical shapes of both white and black cypress trees along with tumbledown gum and red box covering the surrounding hills.
One distinctive looking tree with bright green leaves that dots the clearings around Dripping Rock is the kurrajong. Farmers left these trees as emergency food for stock and only cut them down in times of severe drought so they could be used as sheep fodder. There is a small picnic area with two tables near Dripping Rock where you can relax and take in the scenery.
The real four-wheel driving in Nangar National Park begins after you leave Dripping Rock and start heading up though the former state forest to Mount Nangar Lookout. The first 4km of the 10km long drive to the lookout is relatively tame as the narrow track weaves its way gently up trough dense stands of white and black cypress.
There is a dramatic change in the vegetation as the track becomes rougher and begins to climb steeply past large specimens of ironbark and grey box. Birdlife through here is prolific and if you stop your car and be quiet for a few minutes you will hear the melodious calls from noisy friar-birds and other nectar-eating birds feasting on the flowers of the surrounding eucalypts.
Just on 5.8km after leaving Dripping Rock you come to Y-junction in the track. The left-hand fork climbs steadily upwards for 4km to the lookout while the right-hand fork continues on towards the national park boundary 3.8km away.
The panorama stretching before you from the lookout can be spellbinding with magnificent views along the jagged cliffs of the Nangar Range and the cleared grazing country to the north of the park. The lookout is an excellent place to spot birds of prey such as the wedge-tailed eagle and spotter harrier and if you are extremely lucky the endangered peregrine falcon.
Once you return to the Y junction it’s a relatively easy drive down to the gate at the park boundary—remember to close it, then another 5.7km on through state forest and cleared farming land to the road that runs between Long Pocket and Canowindra. Here you can either turn left and head back to Eugowra – about 34km, or go right to Canowindra about 15km away.