Hawker to the south is the last port of call for supplies and fuel.
For information on Warraweena see www.warraweenastation.com.au/things-to-do/.
For more on Beltana see www.beltana.org.au.
I was camping on the fringes of the stunning and world-renowned Karijini NP and then I headed out towards the rich mining area of Newman, in mid-WA. My first stop was 80km before Newman to explore some local rock art. Not signposted, it’s an easy track to the parking area before a 10-minute walk up the small gorge that undoubtedly holds water in the wet season going by the stunning white gums that are growing out of the red sand.
Wandering up through the rocky gorge and getting my eye in, I was stunned to see several petroglyphs (art forms scratched into the rock as opposed to paintings) by the Martu people. There are literally hundreds of them representing all types of native animals, weapons, people, plants and some sort of enigmatic beings. It’s a quiet place where the more I looked the more I saw.

Down the road, Newman – the largest inland town of the Pilbara with a population of around 5000 that doubles with FIFO workers included – is regarded as one of the most isolated and inhospitable places to work and live in summer. Hot winds blow off the Great Sandy Desert making temperatures soar, yet in the cooler months nights often drop to 10°C.
The town is based around the BHP mine of Mt Whaleback, which is the largest open-cut mine in the world. There are bus tours into the mine and its processing area in peak season and the stats for the mine are staggering.
It was in 1861 that explorer Francis Gregory led the first expedition through the Pilbara, and he reported that ore in the hills was playing havoc with his compass readings.

Small-time ore mining took place in the 1880s when a little gold was found around Nullagine and Marble Bar. The Pilbara was slowly developing around the coast area, but it was in 1957 that Stan Hilditch climbed a nearby mountain (now called Mount Whaleback) and realised that it was a massive ore deposit.
Stan, his wife Elda and business partner Charles Warman kept the ore discovery quiet for several years while an embargo was in place. Work started in 1960 to start extracting the estimated three billion tonnes of ore, and massive trains carry the ore 430km to Port Headland for export around the world.
Around Newman, there are also some pretty stunning areas to explore, like Cathedral Gorge on the way into Newman, plus Kalgan Pool and Eagle Rock Falls, which is accessible only by 4×4. Kalgan Pool is known for its long drive up through a narrow track that’s underwater most of the year.

It’s a daunting drive where long grass brushes against the sides of your vehicle as you tackle the watery track, hoping no one will come the other way as you round the corner. At the other end, you’ll be rewarded with pristine and remote camping beside a deep pool where volcanic rock was pushed out of the ground millions of years ago.
A 30km-long 4×4 track winds its way up and around the pool through spinifex country to the top of the plateau and further on to Eagle Rock Falls. This massive scar in the ground and the deep falls must rage hard during the wet season, dropping down into the gorge that has been cut over millions of years.
The track out of the falls continues through spectacular spinifex country where I saw multiple herds of wild camels roaming.

My next stop was Nullagine, a short-lived gold mining town that dates back to the 1880s. Gold didn’t last long here but when the rush was on there were a reported three pubs, eight stampers and nearly 4000 people.
Interestingly, in 1902 Nullagine became the first place in Australia where diamonds were found, as well as a host of other precious stones. Today, it’s a quiet and well-kept town with only a handful of locals, but visitors can spend time enjoying the remoteness and Nullagine’s natural attractions, like Conglomerate Gorge and Beatons Creek Gorge, cool off at Daylight Pool or wander around town and admire the relics.

I was told about a stunning camp location and waterhole called Skull Springs (also known as Running Waters), and that when I headed out of Nullagine for 120km I would know where the turn was. It’s not officially signposted, as such, but an animal skull stuck on a 4×4 spring signals the turnoff which I soon spotted and headed off down the track towards the waterhole.
Only accessible by high clearance 4x4s, warm water seeps out of the ground from underground springs at this beautiful and magical spot, where the water is turquoise blue with paperbarks lining the bank. The long pool is crystal clear for its entire length and with body-temperature water it is a perfect place to spend a few hours, with a beaut camping area high up on the bank surrounded by spinifex hills.

The next morning I headed up along the Upper Carawine Gorge 4×4 track that eventually crosses one of the local creeks, and as it was the dry season the crossing was relatively easy with a stoney bottom. I had been told that the camping beside the waterway at Carawine Gorge was some of the best in the Pilbara region.
It wasn’t long before I found the turn to the gorge along Woodie Woodie Road with ancient mesa rock formations in the far distance. Arriving at Carawine Gorge blew me away; the campsites faced the massive waterway and a huge rock wall lined the far side.

I was lucky to snag a grassy site (mind you there’s about 5km of free sites to find beside the water) with an already formed fireplace, and the previous campers had left a sack of seasoned wood there. This is a peaceful and serene place to camp where the fading afternoon light brings out the true Pilbara colours across the spinifex grasslands.
There had been a few light showers in the area over the previous days and with the spinifex grass coming to life it was a magical sight, especially the next morning when the sun lit up the rock walls reflecting across the water.

The drive into town is true Pilbara style, with stunning scenery across massive plains towards weathered-down mountains that have taken millions of years to form into their present state. It was back in 1924 that Marble Bar got the reputation as the hottest town in the country when, for 161 days, the mercury never dropped below the magic 100°F (37.8°C).
Today, Marble Bar is a quiet place, but according to records it emerged as a town when gold miners were passing through on their way to different fields. Gold was found nearby in 1891 and this created a small rush for the town, swelling the population to more than 5000; government offices were built, pubs popped up (namely the Iron Clad Hotel, which now is heritage listed) and stampers were installed.

But by 1905 the miners had left for the extremely rich field south at Kalgoorlie. During WWII a massive airstrip was built at Marble Bar for US and Australian bombers, and a machine gun nest was installed.
Today the buildings in Marble Bar are heritage listed and the town is a popular destination for travellers wanting to visit the nearby rock bars. Originally thought to be seams of marble running through the rocks, these bars turned out to be the highly colourful jasper rock across the Coongan River.
It was here in the mining days that the Chinese used the water for market gardens to feed the miners in the goldfields. Huge fines are in place if jasper is removed from the area. A visit to Australia’s hottest town isn’t complete without visiting the nearby Comet Gold Mine which boasts the highest smoke stack in the southern hemisphere.
This whole adventure in the northern part of the Pilbara surprised me with its rich history to its amazing towns, fantastic campsites and refreshing waterholes. Throw in the fun four-wheel driving and exploring, and the stunning ancient artworks, and it seems the Pilbara just keeps giving to those who are willing to explore the area.

Bordering the Great Sandy Desert, this northern part of the Pilbara has a lot to offer in between massive mining operations and remote expanses. Newman to the south caters for the mine workers and tourists, while Marble Bar to the north is known as the hottest town in Australia, but it’s what’s in between that makes it well worth exploring.
Learn about the mining history and rock geology, camp throughout the northern Pilbara in stunning and remote locations, discover ancient Aboriginal petroglyphs, drive some of the best 4×4 tracks in the area… there is plenty to see and do in this northern pocket. And don’t forget the swimming holes including Upper Carawine Gorge, Skull Springs and Running Waters.

As always a lot of information can be found online, but Newman and Marble Bar have comprehensive tourist information centres. At Nullagine, Marble Bar and Newman there are plenty of tourist signs at local points of interest, as well as along walking trails.
The Silverado 2500 HD LTZ Premium is now priced at $166,500 in Australia (excluding on-road costs), which is an increase of $3500 for a vehicle which previously cost $163,000.
For that coin, the flagship pick-up truck for GMSV has been freshened up with a suite of design tweaks including the addition of blacked-out front and rear bumpers; red recovery hooks; and 20-inch high-gloss black alloy wheels with black centre caps.
However, no other changes have been implemented, mechanical or otherwise. This means the monster 350kW/1322Nm 6.6-litre Duramax turbo-diesel V8 running through a 10-speed auto remains, helping to give the ute its favourable 4500kg braked towing capacity. This capacity – combined with trailer-equipped Adaptive Cruise Control, an In-Vehicle Trailering app with Trailer Profiles, and large vertical power-adjustable trailering mirrors – makes it a towing powerhouse.
The big rig is also luxurious, with leather-appointed seating (heated and ventilated in the front; and heated in the rear); a heated leather steering wheel; a powered sunroof; huge screens for infotainment and driver information; and a seven-speaker Bose Premium sound system.
Other key features for the Silverado 2500 HD include Z71 off-road suspension with Rancho shocks; a 136-litre fuel tank; Goodyear Wrangler Trailrunner AT Tyres; and up to 1968 litres of cargo space, with 1317mm between the wheel arches.
Chevrolet has also broadened the Silverado’s exterior colour range with three new hues. Options now include Cypress Grey, Radiant Red, Sterling Grey Metallic, Summit White, Lakeshore Blue and Black.
It was one of those 4x4s that you either loved or hated, and it remains so to this day. For Melbourne fabricator Les Camilleri, the FJ Cruiser fell into the first group, and he just loves the quirky looking rig.
“When I first saw the FJ Cruiser I said, ‘I’ll own one of them, someday’,” Les told us when we were checking out his latest creation.
Les is the bossman and chief floor sweeper at Tinman Fabrications, a business that specialises in chopping 4×4 wagons and turning them into utes or tray backs. Most of his business is converting Nissan Patrols including late model Y62s but there’s been a fair share of LandCruisers through the shop as well. Among Les’s own past personal vehicles are a couple of 60 Series Cruisers, one a twin-cab ute, the other asingle-cab ute with a 30mm chassis extension.
This is the first FJ Cruiser Les has chopped and he says it will be the last. It’s not that the FJ was a particularly difficult job to carry out, just that it took a while to get right, and his time is better spent on the more popular conversions. That, and the fact that Les says he’s thinking of packing up the grinder and welding gear and retiring in the near future.
While we’ve seen other FJs cut and transformed into utes they have never looked quite right… but this one does. The key to finishing up with a good-looking rig is to get the proportions right and to do that Les added 300mm into the FJ’s chassis between the axles. The extra wheelbase makes it look like it should, and perfectly suits the trayback that has been fitted.

It has resulted in something that looks like a quirky farm truck and judging by the comments of those who have seen it, Les has got it spot on.
A standard FJ Cruiser rides on a shorter wheelbase version of the Prado 120 Series chassis so increasing the wheelbase back again was relatively easy, but even with the extra 300mm in the chassis the wheelbase is still 10mm shorter than the Prado. Les cut the chassis and fabbed in the additional length, then plated it up for extra strength and to accommodate the possibility of a future GVM upgrade. The rear body mounts had to be cut out and moved, and this required a frame to be made with additional strengthening.
More strengthening plates are used in the back of the chassis where eight mounts were fabricated into place to hold the100mm x 1840mm Eureka aluminium tray. The flares, spare-wheel mount and small toolbox in the tray show more of Les’s handiwork.

A clue to the way Les uses the FJ is that the toolbox and spare tyre are lifted up off the floor of the tray so that he can carry large sheets of metal in there unhindered. The FJ is a daily workhorse and weekend getaway rig for Les and his family.
While the body was off the chassis Les cut the rear section of the cab off, removing the rear suicide doors, back seat and rear compartment. Les uses genuine Nissan GU ute rear panels when doing the Patrol chops and was able to work one in to seal up the back of the FJ. The rear window is also a factory Nissan piece. The integration is so neat that you could swear it came like this from the factory.
The roof is another work of art. After being cut down to length Les hand formed the edges and corners for a factory look and radius at the rear to meet up with the GU panel.

Another neat piece of custom work from Les is the way he repurposed the factory roof rack mount to become the mounting point for the lightbar, which is a 30-inch double row item that complements the quartet of 7-inch LED spotties on the front bumper for impressive night vision.
Once all the custom fabrication was completed, the cab was sent to Autosmart Body & Paint to give it a fresh coat of the factory Voodoo Blue hue with contrasting roof. That colour has also been matched on the recovery points and accessories on the Hammer front bumper. The side rails coming off the bumper are custom made by, you guessed it, Les himself.
Giving the FJ the stance to accentuate its newfound proportions is a set of MAXXIS RAZR 35s on Fuel Vector wheels. They tuck nicely into the wheel wells thanks to a Dobinsons suspension setup comprising adjustable front coil-overs, adjustable rear shocks and Panhard rod, Dobbo’s coils and upper and lower links. The suspension install was done by the team at A&K Automotive.

As he’s done with the custom wheelbase and bodywork, Les has the FJ sitting just right for both looks and performance. It’s proved its mettle on our day out with it, easily negotiating the tracks and rock steps along the way.
The powertrain uses the standard Toyota 4.0-litre petrol V6 and automatic transmission with the only modification to date being the four-inch stainless steel snorkel made, of course, by Les. He told us that a Harrop supercharger kit is on his wishlist to give the V6 more grunt when towing his ski-boat or camper.
Such is the dual personality of Les’s custom built FJ ute; it’s his work truck during the week and tow mule when getting away on the weekends.
My journey started at Hawker, about 400km north of Adelaide. Known as the hub for the Flinders, Hawker is the last stop for supplies both now and when it was settled just prior to 1850. Its position was strategic when settled as it was near the rail line, and where tracks and roads run along ridgelines and through the gaps of the mountains allowing access to the eastern fringes.

Back in the day the Hawker area was known for some of the best wheat in the country and the town boasted four flour mills. The rail line was a vital connection for the area and further north, during WWII, nearly 20,000 servicemen plus loads of equipment passed through Hawker on their way to Darwin.
The next decade saw floods and droughts ravage the area and eventually the line and businesses closed. Today the town thrives on tourism and the passing trade. Around Hawker there are plenty of abandoned buildings from its heyday that dot the landscape.

Heading north along the Outback Highway, with the spectacular ranges to my right, the afternoon sun highlighted the highs and lows of the rugged mountain range. My goal was 125km to the north for the turn off to Beltana and then eventually Warraweena station.
Beltana dates back to the 1850s when settlers came to the area, just 10 years after explorer John Eyre passed through and named several mountains. For many years Beltana was the starting point for expeditions heading north into unexplored regions. It was a slow start for the town, but when the railway was built in 1881, the town swelled as it opened up new areas and gave access to local mining operations.
A dam was built nearby for the steam engines and a grand station was constructed with a permanent station master.

Unfortunately, most people found the train was too expensive to travel on, and the rail service was mainly used for freight and miners. Nearby at the Leigh Creek coal mine, the demand for coal was so intense from 1950 that the original line was deemed too steep for the massive coal trains so a new line was built to the west of the town across flatter country.
By 1956 the line, its staff and infrastructure was all shut down. Beltana eventually became a ghost town, losing both its mining operations and the railway.
Today Beltana has had a refurbishment with multiple buildings having been restored. There are more than 30 permanent residents in this state-heritage listed town and visitors are welcome to wander around the 22 buildings here and explore the history. Picnic areas, camping sites and walking trails are scattered throughout this amazing outback settlement that once was a bustling centre.

My end goal was still another 30km to the east of Beltana into the remote and isolated Warraweena Station. The station is located where the Flinders and Gammon ranges meet and it makes for a stunning drive across barren landscapes and through spectacular gorge country. The drive eastward towards Warraweena has long stretches of road passing between ancient rock formations on either side, and crossing over rough dry creek beds before you reach the station’s boundary.
Not long after you enter Warraweena, ruins of the old Sliding Rock copper mine appear on the mountainside where pure copper was found in 1870. With a steady population at nearby Beltana, miners moved to the new copper mine and in 1872 a township was surveyed and called Cadnia, that catered for nearly 500 people.
The mine thrived for nearly 10 years until a massive waterflow was tapped into that flooded the mine. Steam powered pumps couldn’t keep up with dispersing the water from the shafts, and eventually the mine was abandoned and soon after the town closed.

Today it’s possible to wander around the old mine site where chimneys still stand; there are buildings and foundations to view and sections of the mine can be found. There are also two old cemeteries where early graves date back to 1870. Ironically, today the water in the mine is used for a backup supply for the nearby town of Leigh Creek.
After driving further into Warraweena Station to the main homestead area, the caretaker will be only too happy to help you with accommodation options and give you an outline of what you can see and do. If you like a little luxury, there’s the Shearers Quarters and the Shepherds Hut near the main homestead where you can base yourself for a few days.
If you’re dragging an off-road camper, there are powered sites and also bush sites scattered through the station. Most of these have long-drop toilets, and it’s okay to use the showers near the homestead. There’s a multitude of bush sites that offer different aspects over the property, and these are situated well away from each other providing solitude.

Around Warraweena there’s an array of different 4×4 tracks for different skill levels; some head out to remote lookouts, others head up dry creek beds to hidden waterholes, and the longer ones head to either Old Warraweena or out to old outstation huts.
The sheer ruggedness of this area is incredible and it’s hard to comprehend even trying to breed sheep in this harsh landscape. These days Warraweena has shifted all livestock off the station and now runs as a tourist destination and a state conservation park. Some of the more challenging 4×4 tracks include Cockatoo Loop track and up to Mount Gill, from where you can enjoy superb views across the Flinders and Gammon ranges.
For a fee it’s possible to head out of Warraweena south to Blinman along ‘the old copper track’. This cross-country trek was used back in the late 1800s and linked three major copper mines, and was the main thoroughfare for many years.

Today it’s an isolated and remote track not suitable for trailers; it’s not maintained and can present a serious challenge where there are severe washouts and old creek beds. The track follows several creek lines and runs over stunning ridges before heading into Moolooloo Station where you can explore the Nuccaleena Mine ruins.
Nuccaleena had a small township near the mine but it didn’t quite last a decade due to its remote location and trouble with transporting the bags of copper out of this rugged area. Once you leave the mine it’s a short drive across Moolooloo Station tracks and into Blinman.
Exploring the western side of the Flinders Ranges, with its rich history, unique station stays and remarkable rock formations – some of the oldest in the world – should be on every four-wheel driver’s bucket list.

Warraweena Station is tucked in between Ikara-Flinders Ranges NP and Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges NP, about a two-hour drive from Hawker in South Australia.
The road east to Warraweena Station off the Outback Highway is unsealed and heads into the remote and isolated territory of the station for nearly 50km. This road passes the historical and heritage-listed township of Beltana and the old Sliding Rock copper mine site.

Warraweena boasts some of the best camping in the Flinders Ranges. There are 4×4 tracks to explore, amazing scenery to enjoy and exhilarating walks to lookouts, old ruins and the old Sliding Rock copper mine site. Outside the Station’s boundary you can learn about the amazing history of Beltana, and for the more adventurous there’s the old Copper Track that runs cross country from Warraweena south to Blinman across remote and isolated county.
Hawker to the south is the last port of call for supplies and fuel.
For information on Warraweena see www.warraweenastation.com.au/things-to-do/.
For more on Beltana see www.beltana.org.au.
Warraweena is only open from March to November and is closed during the summer months. You’ll need to be fully self-sufficient for a stay at Warraweena and manage your fuel consumption if you choose to tackle the station’s 4×4 tracks.
We had wanted to camp out at Devils Hollow but the track to this interesting spot was closed, and while the camping possibilities at this location had been severely reduced by over-zealous Park officials, it is still a favoured spot to set up the camper or throw down the swag.
Be warned though: it’s pretty exposed and earlier last year (in April) my son and his tour group (Moon Tours) had woken to 100mm of snow surrounding their campers.

Now we were on the Twins Jeep Track, which is just one of many iconic tracks in the Victorian High Country. While not as well known as the nearby Blue Rag track that climbs the peaks to the south to the top of Mount Blue Rag, which we had driven earlier, Twins Jeep Track gives great views over the mountains to the north and west.
To the north Mount Feathertop stands dominant while to the west Mount Buffalo can often be seen raising its lumpy plateau above the lesser ridges of the surrounding ranges. About halfway along, a steep track veers off the main route and climbs the nearby Mount Murray, its bulk and ridge blocking views to the south.
Twins Jeep Track is not the place to meet any oncoming traffic and we were lucky that the only group we met during our foray along it were a couple of motorcycle riders testing their skill, agility and endurance on the rough, narrow trail.

We headed south to Gibsons Hut and then to Wheelers Creek Hut, located as it is on a small flat beside the creek of the same name. Both of these huts had been destroyed by large bushfires a few years previously but hard work by the High Country Huts Association and Parks Victoria has seen them restored to their former usefulness.
Normally from either of these huts we climb the rutted and eroded track to the crest of Mount Pinnibar, one of the highest peaks you can drive to in the High Country, but track closures were still in place for this peak so we wandered south on other less forbidding trails till we hit Beloka Road just south of the pleasant campsites to be found at Buenba Gap.
Pushing on we passed the wedge-shaped bulk of Pendergast Lookout and just a short distance on, Macfarlane Lookout, both peaks honouring the first cattle pioneers that opened this country up to Europeans.

At the more major Limestone Road we turned east passing through more open grazing country to the edge of the Alpine NP, where we turned south once more, this time on the Nunniong Road.
This road south passes through forest that was devastated by bushfires some years back and while the trees have sprung back into life and there is a veil of green covering the scene the amount of fallen timber makes any excursion into the forest much more than a challenge, if not impossible. The winding route climbs higher, passing Blue Shirt Plains and entering snowgums as it ascends to the snowline.
The sweep of naturally cleared land that makes up the Nunniong Plain comes upon any traveller quite suddenly while the main sidetrack into the heart of the plain skirts close to the southern edge of the cleared area. The track is deeply rutted in places and diversions have chewed up the plain even more; please don’t make any other tracks when you visit this lovely spot, instead stick to the main route across the grassy veld.

It’s a top spot and we spent our time watching the brumbies grazing as they came out of the protective scrub to feed on the grassy pastures. Oddly, we rarely saw any ’roos or wallabies here enjoying the green bonanza. In the early morning a blanket of mist often covers the grassland when ghostly apparitions turn into brumbies as the sun burns off the enveloping haze.
Once you can tear yourself away from this picturesque and emblematic spot that is pure High Country, the road south passes through an area that hasn’t seen any recent bushfires and the tall trees and understory are a real delight. We always head to Moscow Villa hut for at least a visit and to the nearby Bentley Plains camping area, which is well set up, especially for horse-riding groups as there is a horse yard and more located here.

Heading north-west from Moscow Villa a good forestry road leads past the impressive and historic Washington Winch. Once used in forestry operations to retrieve valuable timber from near inaccessible places, the information board located here shows the incredible and dangerous procedures workers had to contend with up until the 1960s to recover the valuable resource.
As I often say to first-time visitors to this spot, “You could put a million bucks on top of that winch post (in reality a tree that has been lopped off about 40m above ground level) and it would be safe from me!”
After a visit to Omeo for supplies and fuel and to soak up a little of the history of this gold-mining region we headed to Dog’s Grave, one of the most impressive tributes to man’s best friend that can be found anywhere. We then back-tracked a short distance to the Dinner Plain Track.

Normally this is an easy run, but early in the touring season, this track can have a few boggy sections, not helped by the rain that had plagued us from the start of our latest journey, and which can present a short and sharp challenge to those heading this way.
A section of bitumen took us over the top of Mount Hotham, the highest drivable road in Australia, and while Mount Hotham and its resort attract a lot of people it’s a place I drive through or bypass completely on my travels.
Turning onto the Dargo High Plains Road and with our Devils Hollow Camp closed off, we opted for a camp in a nearby gravel pit and then the next morning, with the weather promising a delightful sunny and clear day, we continued along the track to Blue Rag, one of the most iconic drives and views in the High Country.

These days it’s rare to have the track to yourself, or the trig point from where the expansive view is at its best, but having a few other people around takes little away from the experience, and nothing at all from the grand vista.
From our Blue Rag jaunt we headed down the Dargo High Plains Road and camped behind the pub at Dargo. As per our self-instilled requirements we had a beer or two and a meal before retiring for the night, and on this latest trip I enjoyed one of the cabins at the pub, something I hadn’t relished since the huts were first built more than 20 years ago.

The next morning we headed to Talbotville via Crooked River, the narrow track and the numerous creek crossings coming in from the south being a series of delightful obstacles, but ones that can cause issues if the river is deeper than normal after heavy rains. Be warned!
Arriving at the cleared area that was once the township of Talbotville, we found a spot to set up camp, the number of others already doing the same surprising me as it was a weekday with not a holiday in sight.
Situated on the Crooked River, gold was first discovered near here in 1861 and Bulltown, some kilometres upstream and joined today by a challenging track and a climb up the Bulltown Spur, was the major town on the field. When mining interests turned to reef gold, Talbotville (originally called Ram Town) became the main settlement along the river.

The gold though quickly ran out and the once bustling settlements along the river and up on the hills (Grant being the most substantial) were soon abandoned. Somehow, Talbotville hung on for longer than the rest with the last family leaving in 1950.
Today, it is a fabulous and popular camping area and a great stepping off place for some of the High Country’s most iconic places, including Billy Goat Bluff, the fabulous Wonnangatta Valley by some tough tracks, and even the pinnacle of Blue Rag by the challenging Brewery Creek Road.

This ‘hidden valley’ deep within the alps is a spectacular spot loved by all who take the trouble to find their way into its verdant heart, where they’ll find various campsites dotted along the river that flows through the valley. Horse riding groups, four-wheeler drivers, hunters and fishermen all come to the Wonnangatta for the varying attractions it holds for each group.
There’s a lot of history here too, from the days when the valley was a shortcut for the pioneer miners wandering between the goldfields in Gippsland and the Howqua Hills, to cattlemen who brought their stock here via narrow bridle trails that wandered over the flank of Mount Howitt.
Then there were the murders back in 1916 and the more recent ones from just a few years back, but don’t let either of these events colour your opinion of this delightful valley and the attractions it holds.
We headed north back onto the Dargo High Plains Road passing, at one point, through the cattle-grazing lease of the Treasure family, which must be the highest grazing lease that still exists in the High Country. During a few months over summer small groups of Hereford cattle can be seen here, fat from the rich table of herbs and grasses they feed upon.

Just west of Mount Hotham we turned onto the tar for just a few metres before heading onto the Twins Jeep Track. After passing Mount Murray and meeting with the Mount Selwyn Road, once again our planned route was disrupted by an unlisted road closure at a bridge just down the hill.
With the rain still continuing we opted for an easy way out, turning our back on the heart of the High Country and heading down the long winding road into the Buckland Valley, where there are some delightful camps dotted along the river’s banks that was once the centre of the Buckland Goldfields.
The best maps of the area are Hema Maps The Victorian High Country<\/em> (set of four) and the Hema guidebook of the same name.
For the latest on track closures, fire warnings and feral animal eradication area see www.parks.vic.gov.au.
This is a compressor mounted under the front passenger seat of the LandCruiser with a control panel on the dash that automatically inflates or deflates the tyre to the set pressure.
It is mounted on a bracket under the seat using the existing seat bolt holes so no need to drill anything and all the hardware is supplied in the kit. Also in the kit is an air hose with tyre valve connection and selection of fittings for inflating balls and so on.

The digital control panel is simple and easy to use and as an added bonus it has an integrated reading light that comes in handy at night. There’s a similar panel on the driver’s side of the dash with a reading light but no compressor controls.
The compressor itself is a compact unit that is rated to >50L/min@40psi with a maximum working pressure of 150psi and a duty cycle of 20 minutes on/40 minutes off. While that’s not going to challenge the speed of the big twin-pump compressors on the market, this unit offers extremely simple and convenient use.
For our pressure test we wanted to drop the 295/70R17 Maxxis RAZR muddies from the 35psi road pressure down to the 15psi that you might want to use for beach driving, and then pump them back up again.
Setting the target pressure on the control panel takes mere seconds then you just screw the air hose up to the tyre and the system does the rest, deflating the tyre down to the set target. Dropping the 20psi from 35psi down to 15psi took just under three minutes.

After resetting the control panel to 35psi the compressor cut in and took less than three minutes to inflate to the 35psi road pressure.
Because the NSV Integrated Smart Compressor is automatic, it allows you to step away from the tyre and do other things while it inflates/deflates. These other things could include putting away gear, checking other things on the vehicle, enjoying a cool refresher or swapping stories about the drive you just had… or about to embark on.
Simply connect the two hoses from the Indeflate unit to two tyres on the same axle and connect the NSV compressor’s hose to the Indeflate unit, and again the NSV control panel will inflate/deflate the tyres to the same set pressure, two at a time.
Dropping from 35psi to 15psi out of the two front tyres took eight minutes while reinflation to 35psi took seven minutes. Sure, it takes longer, but you have better things to do than stand over a tyre while it adjusts individually. Another good thing about using the Indeflate is that you are guaranteed to get precisely the same pressure in the two tyres across the axle.

In the USA the NSV kit for the Toyota Tacoma is offered as a factory accessory with a Toyota part number. In Australia it is covered by a three-year warranty from NSV. The supplied mounting bracket is powder coated for longevity and the wiring harness comes with OEM-style connectors to plug straight into the factory Toyota harness for power.
It’s compact and as the NSV compressor is mounted under the seat, it’s out of sight and out of mind when you are not using it. The air chuck is mounted in the bracket on the side of the seat where it is super easy to connect to and the supplied six-metre coiled air hose will easily reach all four tyres on the Cruiser.
A decade in the making, the slow-burn Everest is starting to flex its showroom muscles and as we speak the vehicle is in first place in its segment (SUVs under $80k) and in 2024 was the country’s sixth best selling vehicle outright.
Crucially, where the family wagon once made up a tiny percentage of Ranger/Everest volumes, in 2024 the landscape changed dramatically with roughly 26,500 Everests sold to 60,000 Rangers. That’s getting dangerously close to 50 per cent. Look out Ranger!
The latest is a badge – if not the specification – you’ve probably heard of. Sitting near the top of the Everest model ladder, the Everest Tremor provides the off-road counterpoint to the urban-warrior Platinum, and offers some serious mods aimed at making it a better bush weapon.
Tremor? Yep, you’ve seen the badge before on the Ranger Tremor, but the formula is not the same. For a start. The Ranger version is a limited-edition model, while in the Everest world, the Tremor will be a permanent fixture in the brochure. And where the Ranger Tremor runs the bi-turbo 2.0-litre four-cylinder engine, in the Everest, the Tremor badge buys you the 3.0-litre V6 turbo-diesel. Throw in the 10-speed automatic gearbox and permanent four-wheel-drive, and the Everest Tremor scores the driveline specification that is arguably the one you want.

But that’s not all. Ford has also given the Tremor a new set of suspenders and some extra air under the bash plates. The dampers have been upgraded to Bilstein position-sensitive monotube gas-filled units complete with remote reservoirs. This is high-end stuff and it shows how serious Ford is about this model. Ditto the fact that Ford elected to tune the Tremor to our tastes right here in Australia with a dedicated engineering team.
The new springs provide an extra 29mm of ground clearance (for a total of 255mm) and a revised offset for the 17×8-inch alloys mean the front and rear track have grown by 30mm. Departure, approach and ramp-over angles are all improved by a couple of degrees too, and Ford has wisely fitted General Grabber 265/70R17 all-terrain tyres as standard. You also get auxiliary driving lights, steel bash plates and a pair of rated tow hooks at the front. Tyre pressure monitoring is another great touch and the side steps are now made from a composite material for more rut-resistance.
Ford dealers will be demanding $76,590 (plus on-road costs) for the privilege of driving away in a Tremor. Oh, and an extra 200 bills if you want a premium colour (like the hero grey).
This is one area Ford has taken very seriously and the strides made in the Ranger (to comply with OH&S demands) have been transferred to the Everest, which means it gets all the latest driver aids including Autonomous Emergency Braking (AEB), adaptive cruise-control, traffic sign recognition, lane-keeping assistance and rear cross-traffic alert. The AEB works up to 130km/h but its pedestrian and cyclist identification only works up to 80km/h.

The lane-keeping assist program goes against the current grain by actually being reasonably subtle, making ‘suggestions’ through the helm rather than shouting orders. The surround camera and front-facing camera is also brilliant off-road.
The Tremor also gets the Everest’s nine airbags, including a centre bag to prevent head clashes in a side impact, and then there’s that tyre-pressure monitoring; worth its weight in gold. All Everest variants carry a five-star ANCAP safety rating.
The 10-speed auto needs no introduction now and the ability to use four-wheel-drive on wet bitumen is – when towing, especially – a big win. As well as the existing drive modes (Sand, Eco, Tow/Haul, Slippery, Mud/Ruts and Normal) there’s a new spot on the dial called Rock Crawl. There’s the same standard rear diff lock as all Everest 4X4s which can operate at up to 32km/h.
The headline numbers for the engine are 184kW and 600Nm, and fuel economy is probably the major trade-off for the Tremor using the V6 over the bi-turbo. Figure on using somewhere between 12 and 14 litres per 100km in mixed, general use.

The jacked-up, firmed-up suspension doesn’t ruin it by any means, but it does give the ride a firmer edge compared with the relatively plush ride of the Everest on standard springs and dampers.
However, it doesn’t diminish the sharpness or the accuracy of the steering, nor does it alter the fact that the V6 is a magic piece of kit (the one we drove seemed even smoother than previous examples) and seems a really good match for the 10-speed auto. And the option to use full-time 4×4 on the highway in the wet is equally brilliant.

It is, of course, in the mulga where the Tremor-specific stuff comes into play. The lift gives a higher (literally) safety margin when dropping into ruts, and the bash plates equal peace of mind, too. But it’s the extra suspension travel and the brilliant control those dampers offer that really sets the Tremor apart. Extra firmness aside, at low speeds you can feel the dampers doing their best to keep each tyre planted and contributing to forward progress. The Everest Tremor is a vehicle that will really take some stopping.
| Off-road specs | |
|---|---|
| Departure angle | 26.8u00b0 |
| Rampover angle | 23.9u00b0 |
| Approach angle | 32.0u00b0 |
| Wading depth | 800mm |
| Ground clearance | 255mm |
There are loads of storage cubbies, charging ports and power outlets around the cabin and luggage space, and the third row passengers also get cup-holders and storage bins. The second-row seat folds 60:40 and with all the rear seats stowed, the Everest offers a big load space.

The large portrait touchscreen in the centre carries a lot of info, across numerous home-screens, so you need some time to get to grips with that. The steering column is reach and height adjustable and there’s keyless entry and start. However, we’re not so keen on having to engage the rear diff lock from the touch-screen … what’s wrong with a button?
Towing, are we? Then the Everest should still make your shortlist with its 3500kg braked-trailer limit that puts it up there with the best dual-cabs other than the huge American-made stuff.
That is, if you’re buying the Tremor because it looks tough with the inch-and-a-bit lift, or for the hero blue-grey paint job, then you might be making a mistake. See, the Everest even in its most basic Ambiente form still gets a locking rear diff and is still a very capable thing in the bush. More than capable, impressive.

Yes, the Tremor will go farther with the extra clearance, flex and the grunt of the V6 engine, but unless you have big, big off-road plans that require this extra ability, then maybe the Tremor package will stop making sense. And that’s purely down to the trade off in ride quality on bitumen.
You’ll also use more fuel than an Everest with the bi-turbo 2.0L engine and your monthly lease repayments will be larger, too. But if you are tackling the north approach of a buttered cliff face, then the Tremor, of all the Everests, has the smarts to get you up and, critically, back down in one piece. Your call.
| 2025 Ford Everest Tremor | |
|---|---|
| Price | $76,590 +ORC |
| Engine | V6 turbo-diesel |
| Capacity | 3.0L |
| Max power | 184kW at 3250rpm |
| Max torque | 600Nm at 1750-2250rpm |
| Transmission | 10-speed automatic |
| 4×4 system | Full time 4×4, dual range, rear diff lock |
| Construction | 7-seat wagon body on ladder frame chassis |
| Front suspension | Independent, struts with coil springs |
| Rear suspension | Live axle, Watts linkage, coil springs |
| Tyres | 265/70R17 General Grabber on alloys |
| Kerb weight | 2550kg |
| GVM | 3240kg |
| GCM | 6350kg |
| Towing capacity | 3500kg |
| Payload | 690kg |
| Seats | 7 |
| Fuel tank | 80L |
| ADR fuel consumption | 9.5L/100km |
A key rival to the BYD Shark, the Ranger PHEV line-up will consist of four variants when it launches: the base-spec XLT ($71,990 MLP); the Sport ($75,990); the Wildtrak ($79,990); and the Stormtrak special launch edition ($86,990).
Compared to the combustion-powered Ranger equivalents, the PHEV is significantly dearer. Spec-for-spec, the 2.0L XLT is currently priced at $63,640; the 3.0L XLT at $68,840; the 2.0L Sport at $66,140; the 3.0L Sport at $71,340; the 2.0L Wildtrak at $69,640; and the 3.0L Wildtrak at $74,840.
It also struggles to compete against its biggest rival, the BYD Shark ($57,900), on price alone – and Ford will have to rely on the pedigree of the Ranger nameplate to entice prospective customers.
“The addition of PHEV to the Ranger line-up marks the first time in history that Australia’s best-selling nameplate has been offered with an electrified plug-in hybrid option,” said Andrew Birkic, President and CEO, Ford Australia.
“Our Aussie engineering and design team have created a plug-in hybrid that allows diesel ute buyers to begin their electrification journey without sacrificing any of the core capability that they need from a truck – whether they use it for work or play.”

The Ranger PHEV combines a 138kW/411Nm 2.3-litre turbocharged four-cylinder EcoBoost petrol engine with a 75Kw electric motor and 11.8kWh battery, for a maximum total output of 207kW and 697Nm. The set-up implements a new 10-speed automatic Modular Hybrid Transmission (MHT) that offers many benefits including a range of hybrid and EV modes, as well as regenerative braking. The Ranger PHEV utilises the same full-time 4WD system and rear diff lock as per the regular Ranger range.
| Combined fuel economy | 2.7L/100km |
|---|---|
| Electric driving energy consumption | 187Wh/km |
| CO2 emissions | 66g/km |
| Fuel tank capacity | 70L |
The above-mentioned EV modes include four options: Auto EV; EV Now; EV Later; and EV Charge. Auto EV automatically switches between the combustion engine and the battery to prioritise power or efficiency; EV Now uses only the battery to save fuel; EV Later conserves battery power by using petrol power; and EV Charge employs the petrol engine to act as a generator by recharging the battery.

The Ranger PHEV out-muscles the Shark when you take a peek at the towing and payload specs. Where the Shark is limited to just 2500kg, the Ranger PHEV maintains the Ranger’s 3500kg braked towing capacity. Plus, the payload capacities of all four variants is greater than the Shark’s 790kg – 973kg (XLT), 934kg (Sport), 885kg (Wildtrak), and 808kg (Stormtrak). All variants have a GVM of 3500kg and a GCM of 6580kg. In addition, the Ranger PHEV’s tray exceeds 1600mm in length and is now able to accommodate two European pallets.
“We know how important carrying and towing heavy loads is to our Ranger customers, so this was a top priority in the development of Ranger PHEV,” said Phil Millar, Chief Program Engineer, Ford Ranger PHEV. “But there is more to safe towing and hauling ability than numbers on a spec sheet – we’ve also ensured Ranger PHEV comes fitted with class-leading technology like our integrated trailer brake controller.
“Beyond just a simple trailer brake controller, the Ranger PHEV’s system is fully integrated with the rest of its active safety suite, meaning features like the electronic stability control factor in the trailer’s brakes and activate them as necessary.”

All Ranger PHEV models in the line-up are also equipped with a Pro Power Onboard system, which essentially allows owners to use the 11.8kWh battery to power electronics when travelling to remote campsites or at the worksite.
“Now instead of having to carry a heavy generator or batteries that take up precious room and can often be very noisy, a Ranger PHEV owner can plug virtually anything they might want to power directly into the vehicle itself,” said Phil Millar, Chief Program Engineer, Ford Ranger PHEV.
“With 15-amp sockets in the tray, that’s equivalent to having a powered caravan park site with you anywhere you might want to explore – the possibilities are almost endless!
“We’ve engineered Pro Power Onboard for maximum convenience in real-world situations. It functions with the car locked and when it is plugged in to charge, plus if the battery should deplete completely the 2.3-litre EcoBoost then kicks in to keep everything running.”
Going by the number of them you see on the road, it should come as no surprise that the BYD Shark has leapt into the new 4×4 sales charts and straight in to the top five sellers for the month with 2026 of the new 4×4 utes finding their way to owners. With a long list of features and sharp pricing it will be interesting to see what BYD can achieve over the coming months as the shark attack get in to full swing.
The new Chinese brand still has a way to go before it challenges the market leaders in Ranger and Hilux but it has them firmly in their sights.

Ranger continues to be Australia’s top-selling 4×4 so far this year with 3782 of them going out to buyers in February. Ford also announced pricing and details of its own PHEV Ranger to dampen the Shark bite so we’ll see how that battle ensues.
Hilux remains a consistent seller with 3099 of them hitting the streets while Toyota’s new Prado continues its comeback with the 250 Series selling 2723 units. Toyota is selling every Prado it can get in to the country at the moment but we are hearing that, depending on what model you’re after, there are cars available to drive away from dealers now. It seems the high-spec Prados like the Altitude and Kakadu still have long wait times.
Speaking of big wagons, February was a particularly slow month for Land Cruiser 300 with just 292 being sold compared to the Nissan Patrol which moved 522 units. This puts the Patrol ahead of Land Cruiser sales for the year with 1443 Patrols sold so far to just 705 Cruisers. We’re sure the Toyota dealers will say it’s because all the buyers are getting in to new Prados.

Great Wall Motors is looking to raise its stake in the ute market with the updated Cannon going on sale this month. As it sits, the Cannon is just outside the top 10 selling 4x4s to date in 11th place. With 1190 units sold this year, look for this to come up as the new model appears in dealers.
Also hitting the market soon is the RAM 1500 with the new inline six-cylinder turbo petrol engine.It seems owners have flocked to get the last of the Hemi V8 powered RAMs with 224 of them fining homes, compared to 155 Ford F-150s, 99 Chevy Silverados, and just 78 Toyota Tundras. It will be interesting to see how the new six-cylinder RAM is received, leaving the Chevy as the only V8 sold in the 1500 class here in Australia.
| Best-selling 4x4s in February 2025 | |
|---|---|
| Ford Ranger | 3782 |
| Toyota Hilux | 3099 |
| Toyota Prado | 2723 |
| BYD Shark | 2026 |
| Isuzu D-Max | 1593 |
| Mitsubishi Triton | 1242 |
| Ford Everest | 1207 |
| Mazda BT-50 | 1176 |
| Nissan Navara | 739 |
| Toyota LC79 | 731 |
| Best-selling 4x4s YTD (as of Feb 2025) | |
|---|---|
| Ford Ranger | 7775 |
| Toyota Hilux | 5893 |
| Toyota Prado | 5570 |
| Isuzu D-Max | 3270 |
| Ford Everest | 2886 |
| Mitsubishi Triton | 2293 |
| Mazda BT-50 | 2173 |
| BYD Shark | 2026 |
| Isuzu MUX | 1499 |
| Toyota Land Cruiser 79 | 1461 |
| GWM Cannon | 1190 |
The diesel-powered Tank 300 will be available in two variants, starting with the Lux at $47,990 driveaway and topping out with the Ultra at $51,990, with order books for the new variant expected to open this month. This slots the diesel variants between the petrol-powered models ($46,990 Lux and $50,990 Ultra) and hybrid models (currently $55,990 Lux and $60,990 Ultra).
The 2.4-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine is paired to a nine-speed automatic transmission and delivers 135kW at 3600rpm and 480Nm from 1500-2500rpm. GWM states a combined fuel economy figure of 7.8L per 100km. The diesel power has also enabled GWM to increase the vehicle’s braked towing capacity from 2500kg (petrol and hybrid) to 3000kg.

“The introduction of the new Tank 300 diesel builds on the success of our rugged off-road range, offering customers a more powerful yet highly efficient powertrain option,” said Steve Maciver, Head of Marketing and Communications at GWM. “With impressive towing capability, refined performance, and two well-equipped grades, this new variant reinforces our commitment to delivering versatile and capable vehicles.”

The Tank 300 diesel comes with a seven-year/unlimited kilometre standard new car warranty; seven years of roadside assistance with 24/7 support; and seven years of capped price servicing.