Queensland’s Billy McKinnon probably wasn’t the first person to slot an 80 Series chassis underneath a classic 40 Series LandCruiser but we reckon he was the first in Australia to make a business out of doing it.

It was eight years ago when we featured Billy’s turbocharged V8-powered FJ45 Troopy in 4X4 Australia, a vehicle that was built on an 80 Series platform. In the years since he has established McKinnon’s Cruisers, specialising in such creations for customers all around Australia. And there have been a few more of them featured in our pages since, as no two of the amazing builds are the same.

The latest Cruiser to come out of the workshop caught our eye as once again, it was something a bit different.

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While most of the Cruiser conversions from McKinnon’s are long wheelbase 45 Series utes or Troopies that better accept the 80 Series chassis, this short wheelbase FJ40 retains its stubby stance because the 80 chassis was cut down to 2360mm to sit under the 40 body.

Oh yeah, there have been one or two mid-wheelbase 40/80 conversions to come out of the shop as well, but this is the first SWB one… and it wasn’t straightforward.

“Being the first FJ40 SWB on an 80 chassis, there was a lot that went into the design and engineering processes,” Billy says.

Fitting an 80 Series chassis under a 40 makes it much nicer to drive thanks to the comparatively modern coil spring suspension replacing the original leaf spring setup. But the donor 80 Series for this build had a 2850mm wheelbase while a standard FJ40 has a 2285mm wheelbase.

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In a minor compromise, this 40 is now a bit longer in the wheelbase at 2360mm, but that meant almost half a metre still had to be cut out of the 80 Series chassis.

The chassis has been beefed up with Superior Engineering front arms and links, Dobinson’s Monotube Remote Reservoir (MRR) suspension and hydro bump stops designed for taking those hard hits when off road, plus LCS4x4 trailing arms. The FZ80 diffs were likewise toughened with Longfield chrome-moly axles, CVs and ARB Air Lockers, providing the drive to the 35-inch Toyos.

The big slotted brake rotors are from Bendix and they sit behind a set of Method beadlock wheels.

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The topside of the chassis benefits from a heap of custom-made protection equipment all courtesy of the House of McKinnon.

The front bar is a McKinnon’s Cruisers stubby bar and it houses that impressive looking Red Winches Cobra XL winch. The twin swing-out rear bar is also made in-house with a spare tyre on one side and a fridge mount on the other.

Why would you want to mount your fridge up there outside the 4×4? Billy says this Cruiser was made to enjoy with mates on board, so he built it as a four-seater and the rear seats take up the space in back. The roll cage was also made to accommodate rear-seat passengers and includes a bikini top to keep the sun off occupants’ heads when cruising up the beach.

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More custom bar work comes in the form of the rock sliders to protect the sills.

The other donor to this project was an old FJ40… or what was left of it. It was just a bare cab that was on the scrapheap in pretty bad shape. A lot of work went into fabricating the replacement panels and patching up what was left of the original Toyota metal and now it looks better than new back in ’77.

An FJ40 is obviously a lot smaller than an FZ80, in both width as well as length. While it was one thing to cut down the 80 Series chassis to make it fit under the 40, getting the wheel track within the guards required more custom work. Wide guards were made up using more tube steel and some sheet metal and these have become standard equipment for these 40/80 hybrid Cruisers.

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We’ve seen a variety of different engines powering these hybrids from McKinnon’s over the years, from the turbo LS in Billy’s Troopy, to a Ford Coyote V8, LSA V8, and even a Cummins diesel. This shorty sticks to the Toyota brand but not with the turbo-diesel inline six you might expect.

The V8 rumble comes from a 1UZ engine as found in V8 100 Series and Lexus LX470s back in the day. They were some of the most refined and best performing engines around in the 1990s and this one gets some extra mumbo with the intake charge forced into the 4-valves per cylinder DOHC heads courtesy of an Eaton M90 supercharger.

The 1UZ engine is known to be over-engineered and very tough, so this retains its standard internals.

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Engine management comes via a Link G4 ECU controlled via a Haltech IC-7 digital dash.

Behind the Lexus engine is a Ford C4 three-speed automatic which Billy says was also on the scrapheap prior to finding a new life here. It uses a Marks 4WD adaptor to mate to a 60 Series split-case transfer case and custom drive shafts.

With its mixture of parts from many automotive brands, and a hell of a lot of custom fabrication, this FJ40/80 has come together particularly well, maintaining the look of the classic Toyota ‘shorty’ with improved ride, handling and performance courtesy of a master craftsman.

Now it’s time for Billy to fill up that fridge, load up his mates and hit the Queensland beaches.

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Happy new year from the crew at 4X4 Au!

It looks like 2025 promises to be another big year for new 4×4 vehicles, and in turn the accessories to equip them, and we’re getting stuck into it already. In fact, two of the key pillars of 4X4 Australia are 4×4 vehicles and the aftermarket accessories industry. Another is vehicle based travel, but I want to talk about the first two now.

Both the new 4×4 vehicle market and the 4×4 aftermarket industry have snowballed in growth over the past 30 years. One feeds the other as the growing number of new 4x4s being bought by consumers feeds the appetite to accessorise them, to make them better suited for touring and off-road adventures. Sure, not everyone wants to accessorise their new vehicle but a huge percentage of owners do, and if you’re reading this, I’m guessing you’re one of them.

The right accessories make your 4×4 more capable so you can take it on tougher tracks, make it more resilient to the harshness of rough roads and tracks, and easier to live with during weeks or months on the road. Thankfully, the Australian 4×4 aftermarket industry is considered globally to be the best in the world, designing and producing the foremost gear and accessories on the planet. While we have some well-established brands that have been around for many decades and are known for their quality and innovation, we’re now also seeing a lot of new companies popping up to feed the growing demand for gear.

What I’ve found really interesting in the last few years is that vehicle manufacturers are now collaborating with the aftermarket producers to kit out their customers’ 4x4s. Previously, dealers were seeing owners take delivery of their shiny new 4x4s and then driving them around the corner to the local accessories store where they’d spend tens-of-thousands more equipping them. This left the car dealers wondering how they could get a slice of the action.

Ford has made the biggest move partnering with ARB to have OEM-backed and fitted accessories for its 4x4s both here in Australia and in the USA. Now we see ARB kit filtering through to the Volkswagen Amarok, which is really a no-brainer considering the shared parts between the Ford and VW… but VW Australia also did its own testing and certification to make sure the products meet that company’s standards.

Check out the Volkswagen Amarok 10 Deserts Edition we drove recently that is equipped with gear from ARB, Rhino-Rack and other quality aftermarket accessories. The other interesting partnership we’ve seen at the end of 2024 is Ironman 4×4 partnering with newcomer BYD to create a range of off-road accessories for the brand’s Shark 6 ute.

The Shark 6 is certainly making waves in the 4×4 ute pond and the first deliveries will be going out to owners early in the new year. This BYD/Ironman 4×4 collaboration will be a very interesting one to watch. Stick with us for the ride!

We list some of the best 4×4 products that came out in December 2024 👇

• Bendix Ultimate 4WD brake upgrade kit
• Bendix Brake Booster for 2.8 LC70
• MSA 4×4 Explorer Storage Bags
• Loaded Wheels: Gibb 1675
• General Tire Grabber ATX and AT3
• GME XRS-660 UHF radio
• Idemitsu motor oil
• XTS 4×4 1600 Starter Bundle
• Teralume XGO trays and canopies
• Invicta Hybrid Starter Battery
• Offroad Animal bars for INEOS Grenadier
• Narva Ultima MK3 lights

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Bendix Ultimate 4WD brake upgrade kit

The Bendix Ultimate 4WD brake upgrade kit is a comprehensive package that includes advanced brake pads and rotors, braided brake lines and other essential accessories, all supplied in a durable touring case.

The high-performance ceramic brake pads are specifically formulated to enhance stopping power under extreme conditions. The included Bendix Ultimate Rotors utilise high carbon metallurgy for superior braking performance and feature diamond tip slots. The bi-directional pillar design is claimed to efficiently expel gases, water, dust and grit.

During testing, the kit is said to have demonstrated reduced braking distance by up to 5m at 100 km/h compared to OEM brakes. Other benefits include a firm brake pedal that resists over-expansion under pressure; minimised brake dust; reduced noise; thermal stability; and resistance to brake fade.

The kit includes easy-to-install braided brake hoses designed to withstand pressure without expanding. In addition, the touring case also contains Bendix heavy-duty brake fluid, brake cleaner, parts degreaser, Ceramasil lubricant, and brake rotor wipes.

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Bendix Brake Booster for 2.8 LC70

• RRP: $849

The upgrade is designed to increase braking performance by up to 30 per cent, making it an attractive option for owners who use their LandCruisers to carry heavy loads or for towing, either in work or recreational usage.

ADR-approved and a direct bolt-in replacement for the original equipment (OE) booster, the Ultimate 4WD Brake Booster features a dual diaphragm design that dramatically reduces the pedal effort required to bring the big Cruiser to a standstill.

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MSA 4×4 Explorer Storage Bags

• RRP: $100 (small); $110 (medium); $120 (large)

Available in three sizes and made from a spill and water-resistant high-quality satin-black Hypalon exterior with a grey PVC interior, the bags are reinforced with high-density 4mm EVA foam sides and lid. A sturdy carry handle and grab handles at each end provide comfortable means to handle the bags. The four clear pockets on the lid, combined with the supplied blank labels, allow for a highly visible labelling solution for the contents.

Each bag comes with at least two bag dividers, creating multiple segmenting options. Whether buying as a one-off or in combinations of the three available sizes, the MSA 4X4 Explorer Storage Bags all fit snugly together within a MSA 4X4 Storage Drawer System or anywhere else in your vehicle.

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Loaded Wheels: Gibb 1675

These new wheels by Loaded Wheels are load-rated up to 1675kg and are designed for vehicles with GVM upgrades, and those that tow and go off-road. They are named Gibb 1675 after the legendary 660km road of the same name that was constructed in the 1960s.

With increased strength and shock resistance, the wheels have a number of premium features including staggered offsets for LandCruiser 79 Series track adjustment; self-cleaning vents in the wheel lip to clear water and mud; full-length caps with removable hub access; and flow form technology to increases the tensile strength.

Four colours are available: Satin Black, Dark Tint, Silver Machined and Bronze, and all rims are 17×9-inch. The wheels come with a lifetime structural warranty and have been subjected to rigorous international testing standards for cornering fatigue, impact and radial loads.

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General Tire Grabber ATX and AT3

General Tire has introduced two new all-terrain 4×4 tyres to its Australian line-up: the Grabber ATX and Grabber AT3.

Both tyres, designed to balance on- and off-road performance, feature Comfort Balance Technology, which is said to provide a comfortable and quiet ride on bitumen courtesy of a tread cushioning system with an acoustic tread pattern. Plus, DuraGen Technology is said to provide impressive cut and chip resistance and grip when driving off-road. The tyres also feature a sturdy compound with reinforced blocks, high-strength steel belts, an open tread shoulder, large sidewall lugs, stacked deflection ribs and rim protection ribs.

The ATX is available in 13 sizes ranging from LT235/85R16 to LT275/65R20. The AT3 is available in nine sizes ranging from LT225/75R16 to LT265/65R18.

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GME XRS-660 UHF radio

• RRP: $549

The unit has built-in GPS, wireless connectivity via Bluetooth, a colour TFT LCD screen, IP67 ingress protection, and a MIL-STD810G rating. It’s covered by a five-year warranty.

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Idemitsu motor oil

• RRP: From $19.99

All products are available in either 1L or 5L containers. The IFG 7 Series is the flagship offering features such as Septet Guard Technology and nano-cleansing which are claimed to maximise performance, protection, cleanliness and oil life. The range is available now via the Idemitsu website.

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XTS 4X4 1600 Starter Bundle canopy

• RRP: $11,490

The 1600L canopy is made from corrosion-resistant 2.5mm aluminium plate and features dual wing doors with piano hinges and gas struts, an internal reinforced floor, roof and wall bracing, and whale tail locks.

Optional extras include vinyl wrap, jack-off legs, spare wheel holder, rear ladder, jerry can holder, roof rack, slide-out drawer shelf, slide-out pantry, power system, Bushman 85L fridge and central locking. The 1600 Starter Bundle canopy is available to pre-order.

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Teralume XGO trays and canopies

Teralume is a one-stop shop for all of your 4×4 touring needs, with the Queensland crew providing everything from its range of XGO trays and canopies to lithium power solutions and lighting systems.

They offer complete tray and canopy installation, a full suite of electrical services and customisable LED lighting solutions. Plus, they’ll also install roof rack systems, suspension upgrades and bolt on general 4×4 products such as winches, bull bars, snorkels, rooftop tents and awnings.

Ready-to-run features and options include a premium full-length tray, up to three canopy sizes, XGO lithium battery storage, an XGO power management hub, an internal channel frame, Victron range of inverter chargers, unique tapered drawers, a headboard water tank, full-length trundle drawer, integrated tie-down points, expedition wheel and jerry can holders, integrated fuel filler, no false floor, and camera and sensor relocation.

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Invicta Hybrid Starter Lithium Battery

The Invicta Hybrid Starter Battery is a dual-purpose under-bonnet lithium starting and deep-cycle solution that is claimed to be able to withstand high-heat environments.

Utilising premium A123 pouch cells, it can output more than 1400CCA depending on the product. As an added feature, a backup Jump Start function is included so users can be confident that they will be able to run their 12v accessories without sacrificing starting ability.

These particular pouch cells have been specifically selected due to their inherent ability to be discharged and charged at a high rate. The SNLMAX battery is so powerful it can even power an electric winch.

The batteries feature a three-year full replacement warranty, Bluetooth monitoring, under-bonnet lithium battery replacement, lightweight LiFePO4 chemistry, BMS for high continuous charge/discharge, jumpstart feature, high CCA capabilities, charge directly from the alternator, and come in standard automotive case sizes.

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Offroad Animal bars for INEOS Grenadier

• RRP: $2550 (Predator); $3250 (Toro)

Offroad Animal’s bars for Ineos fit both models and are available in two styles – the full hooped Toro Bar or the hoopless Predator Bar.

Made using 3mm and 5mm steel, the bars improve approach angles, are designed to accommodate most winches, have integrated high-lift jack points, come with a solid bash guard, are ADR and airbag compatible, and can be colour coded to match or contrast your vehicle.

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Narva Ultima MK3 lights

• RRP: $1450 (Hybrid kit pair including harness)

The new spot beam pattern delivers more than 1400m of light (and more than 1200m for hybrid beam) per pair of lamps. The spot beam also features a significantly wider beam width than most other driving lights but when compared to the hybrid beam, a deliberate width reduction of 12m means less light on road signs to minimise unwanted flare.

There seem to be so many different lights and headlamps on the market these days it’s hard to figure out what will best suit your needs.

Apart from a headlamp or two, I’ve found the following LED lights to be a handy and flexible addition to my travelling gear.

CAOS LED lanterns come either singularly, in a twin pack, or a four-pack parcel. We bought the four-pack unit which comes packaged in a well-made zip-closed padded case that includes the four lights, four rechargeable lithium batteries, and four battery cases that take three AAA batteries (12 batteries supplied) as a back-up power source. There’s also a couple of USB charging cables.

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Each light has a magnetic mount for easy attachment to bonnets and the like, while also having a bungee cord for attaching to non-magnetic items such as tree branches, plastic handles or tent poles up to about 25mm in diameter.

Each light weighs 85g and has an IP66 waterproof rating, which means they can withstand a bit of a blast from a high pressure water jet – don’t take them underwater though.

Each of the lamps has five lighting modes which includes white high, medium and low power, amber high and amber strobe flashing. Battery life from the 1200mAh lithium batteries reportedly varies from five hours on white high to 95 hours on white low. We’ve used the lights for quite some time before they needed recharging.

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These lights throw a good beam of even light in the white modes and when used in the amber mode are great around the food preparation area or on the dinner table, as insects aren’t attracted by the amber light.

On the CAOS website we’ve noticed they only have the two-pack for sale at present although we bought the four-pack within the last 12 months for around a 100 bucks.

Looking on the web you’ll probably find similar lights for a similar price, but we’ll stick with the CAOS brand for its carrying case and warranty… and we know they work and have done for 12 months or so without a hassle. They are covered by a two-year warranty which is extended to three years for CAOS Crew members

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1. Moreton Island

Words: Justin Walker

Photos: Scott Mason

Just 40km from the city of Brisbane, Moreton Island offers the perfect off-road adventure. With 18,000ha of sand, bush and beaches, it’s ideal for a weekend escape whether you’re into swimming, diving, fishing, camping or bushwalking.

What makes Moreton Island stand out is that all its roads are sandy tracks – there are no sealed roads here, so it’s a true 4×4 experience. The island’s soft sand makes it a prime destination for off-road enthusiasts, and it’s just a short ferry ride from Brisbane. The Micat ferry runs daily from the Port of Brisbane to the island’s western coastline (The Wrecks) where your adventure begins.

The island’s beach-driving conditions depend on tides and weather. Big storms can erode large sections of beach, so it’s important to check the latest track and beach conditions on the Queensland Department of National Parks website before heading out.

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We recommend planning your beach driving around two hours either side of low tide to avoid getting stuck – many vehicles have been claimed by Moreton’s beaches.

Moreton Island offers five campgrounds equipped with toilets, showers and bore water (always treat or boil the water before use). In addition, there are five beach-based camping zones, but note that campfires are only allowed in designated fire pits at campgrounds, and you’ll need to bring your own wood.

Fishing is popular on the island, but parts of the coastline fall within the Moreton Bay Marine National Park, where fishing is prohibited, so be mindful of restricted areas when planning your catch.

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If you’re camping overnight, head north after arriving at The Wrecks. From there, you can take high-tide tracks at Cowan Cowan and Cravens Creek, then return to the beach for the remainder of the drive north to Bulwer.

For a picturesque camping spot, head to Comboyuro Point campground, a quiet spot near the island’s northern tip.

For a longer adventure, the Bulwer North Point Road takes you across the island’s northern section, passing beaches and access tracks, as well as the Five Hills Lookout. This viewpoint, atop a huge sand dune, offers stunning views of Heath Island. Continue on to Yellow Patch and North Point campgrounds, near the historic Cape Moreton Lighthouse, for an overnight stay.

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If you’re towing a camper trailer, the Bulwer Blue Lagoon Road is a good route to reach Blue Lagoon campground on the east coast. During whale-watching season (June to October), you might even spot a few whales from here.

Blue Lagoon is another must-visit, known for its crystal-clear waters and popular campground. South of Spitfire Creek, more camping opportunities await, but we recommend stopping at Blue Lagoon for a swim and rest.

For history buffs, a stop at the Rous Battery site is worth it. This World War II defence installation is now in ruins, but it offers an interesting glimpse into the island’s military past and is a great spot for the kids to explore.

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A little farther south, the Little Sandhills and Big Sandhills provide fantastic views and the chance to try sand tobogganing, a favourite Moreton Island activity. These massive dunes rise over 80m, offering plenty of thrills.

At the island’s southern tip, Mirapool Lagoon is a prime birdwatching spot, and the nearby Kooringal area is the ferry departure point for North Stradbroke Island.

From here, you can either head back along the eastern beach track to The Wrecks and the ferry back to Brisbane, or take the ferry from Kooringal for a new adventure. Moreton Island is a true 4×4 paradise, offering something for every outdoor enthusiast, all just a short trip from the city.

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2. North Stradbroke Island

Words: Justin Walker

Photos: Matthew and Lucy Eaton

Stradbroke Island, or Straddie as it’s affectionately known, offers a perfect weekend escape from Brisbane, similar to Moreton Island.

Accessible by ferry from Cleveland or from Moreton Island’s northern tip, Straddie boasts a wide range of activities including swimming, surfing, fishing, beach driving, kayaking, camping and golf – yep, there’s a golf course on the island.

Like Moreton, a beach access permit is required for driving on Straddie’s beaches. It’s important to note that four-wheel drive access to the beaches is restricted an hour either side of high tide, and fines are issued for violations. Naree Budjong Djara National Park covers parts of the island, with restrictions on vehicular access to certain areas, such as Blue Lake, which requires a 5km return walk to reach.

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The island’s roads are a mix of sealed bitumen and unsealed 4×4-only tracks. The ferry lands at Dunwich, the island’s main settlement, where you can pick up supplies and grab an island map before heading off on your adventure.

From Dunwich, the preferred route is to head north along Dickson Way. A quick detour east along Tazi Road takes you to Brown Lake, a great spot for a swim or picnic. However, this track is best suited for high-clearance 4x4s, especially after rain, as it can become quite muddy.

If you’re after a more relaxed family-friendly route, continue north on East Coast Road, passing through the northern section of Naree Budjong Djara National Park. You can then head to the Amity Point caravan park or, for a quieter experience, camp along Flinders Beach.

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The beach drive here is fantastic, but be cautious as this area is popular with pedestrians and anglers, so it’s important to drive slowly and be aware of others.

From Flinders Beach, you can head further north towards Adder Rock, a small settlement before reaching Point Lookout, where fuel and supplies are available. Continuing south, you’ll drive the iconic 24km stretch along Main Beach, which runs from Point Lookout to Jumpinpin Channel (The Pin), the channel separating North and South Straddie. Along the way, there are several campsites where you can settle for the night.

Alternatively, you can retrace your steps north and turn onto Tazi Road, passing the Blue Lake walk carpark before returning to Dunwich and taking in Brown Lake if you missed it earlier.

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For a more challenging 4×4 experience, head north from Dunwich along East Coast Road/Dickson Way and turn right just past Beehive Road onto Tripod Track.

This is a thrilling drive through Straddie’s lush interior, and you can stop at Tripod Lookout for panoramic views. The track then narrows, leading you onto Tazi Road before turning onto Fishermans Road.

Continue north on Fishermans Road until you reach the turnoff to Keyhole Lakes Track. This side trip is recommended for experienced 4×4 drivers, as it involves several water crossings, so make sure your vehicle is equipped with a snorkel, and check water depths before attempting.

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This track takes you to remote lakes perfect for kayaking, fishing and picnicking. Due to the tough access, these lakes provide a sense of solitude that’s hard to find on the more popular parts of the island.

Straddie offers a fantastic mix of easy-going coastal drives and more challenging off-road tracks, making it an ideal destination for both families and experienced 4×4 adventurers. With its beautiful beaches, lush forests, and remote spots for paddling and fishing, it’s the perfect weekend getaway just a short trip from Brisbane.

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3. K’gari (Fraser Island)

Words and photos: Dan Grec

For decades many have referred to Fraser Island as paradise, which coincidentally is the meaning of the island’s original Aboriginal name K’gari, which it has now re-adopted.

K’gari is the world’s largest sand island, and is made of 113 cubic kilometres of the stuff. Much more than just sand, however, K’gari also boasts rainforests, wildlife, 1000 year old trees and more than 865 species of plants.

This incredible island paradise was UNESCO World Heritage Listed in 1992, and virtually the entire island can be explored with a well-equipped four-wheel drive vehicle. K’gari sits barely a kilometre off the mainland, and multiple barges and ferries regularly make the crossing, transporting an armada of 4x4s and their grinning drivers.

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Many of the decked-out vehicles could easily be on the cover of a magazine, and they’re all packed to the brim, ready for adventure.

From top to bottom, K’gari is dotted with spectacular places to visit, each of which are a worthy destination in their own right. The aptly named 75 Mile Beach runs along most of the east coast of the island, and is designated a main road complete with speed limits and police radar. The sand road is so consistently good it is also used as a runway for light planes, which makes for some interesting decision making while navigating its length.

Halfway along the east coast of the island is the famous wreck of the luxury passenger ship, the SS Maheno. In 1935 the ship was caught in a strong cyclone about 80km off the coast of Queensland while being towed to a scrapyard. The ship became beached on the east coast of the island where it has remained ever since, slowly rusting away in the corrosive saltwater.

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Just north of the Maheno wreck on the east coast, Eli Creek flows into the ocean and provides not only a refreshing swimming hole, but also hours of entertainment for the whole family.

The crystal clear creek flows at a rate of 80 million litres per day, which provides plenty of flowing water allowing you to drift downstream on just about any kind of inflatable or pool noodle.

Cutting across the island to the west coast is the breathtaking Awinya Creek camping area where paradise is elevated to a whole new level – with white sand stretching to the horizon, and sunset painting the sky and sand every shade of red, orange and yellow that can be imagined.

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Further north along the east coast, as you round Indian Head, is Champagne Pools.

This series of natural rock pools provide a sheltered swimming area in the otherwise unforgiving ocean. When the tides are timed just right, the largest waves crash over the rocks into the swimming pools in spectacular fashion, creating plenty of foam and excitement for those swimming in relative safety.

For those in need of a serious 4×4 challenge, head to Ngkala Rocks, one of Australia’s most notorious 4×4 obstacles. K’gari is also famous for its superb fishing, especially along the eastern coastline directly into the South Pacific.

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Don’t forget about the dingoes. They’re extremely common across the island, and sadly the 300 or so resident animals have become quite habituated to humans.

You’ll see them prowling the shoreline searching for any tasty morsel they come across. In the late afternoons and evenings they have learned that humans and campsites mean food, so they move up into the dunes where they inevitably come into close contact with people.

Attacks on adults are exceedingly rare, but dingoes have attacked and seriously injured children on more than a few occasions over the years.

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4. CREB track, Cape York

Words and photos: Dan Grec

If beach driving doesn’t interest you, perhaps a trip along the famous CREB track in Cape York is on the cards.

Created as the service access track for the old Cairns Regional Electricity Board (CREB), the track mostly follows ancient aboriginal foot trails through dense rainforest.

As well as providing spectacular scenery, the CREB is notorious as one of Australia’s most challenging four-wheel drive adventures. With rain the track becomes extremely slippery and dangerous, and vehicles have been known to roll-over in the area.

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The track traverses spectacular World Heritage-listed rainforest as it weaves north from Daintree Village, up and over multiple peaks of the McDowall Range and back down past the Aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal. This track is not to be taken lightly.

For 4×4 enthusiasts, crossing the Daintree River is an iconic challenge on the way to exploring Queensland’s ancient wilderness. A cautious approach is required due to the Daintree’s crocodile population. Once across, mud holes, washouts and soggy stretches will challenge 4×4 talent as the track begins to climb. The dense jungle will quickly close in as the track grows steeper and more challenging.

The CREB slices through Daintree National Park, which contains the oldest rainforest anywhere on earth. Because the rainforest here has existed continuously for more than 110 million years, many species of trees and plants are the ancient ancestors of more common species today.

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This flora dates back roughly 30-50 million years and gives scientists a direct window into the past, and what the planet looked like long ago.

Elsewhere on earth these ancient plants and trees died out millions of years ago, and can only be studied as fossils. This park is made up of trees and plants that existed when dinosaurs roamed the earth, so is a literal Jurassic Park.

The Daintree is also home to thousands of animal species, including the majestic cassowary. Equally as flightless as emus but much more beautiful, cassowaries are typically wary of humans but can get very aggressive when provoked or while defending their young.

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Their three-toed feet have large claws that resemble a velociraptor, making you think you might actually see a dinosaur wander by.

Cassowaries have on occasion killed people, leading to the label of ‘world’s most dangerous bird’.

The entire region has enormous cultural and spiritual significance to the local Aboriginal people, and in a historic deal made by the government of Queensland, the eastern Kuku Yalanji people took formal ownership of Daintree National Park in 2021.

Oh, and of course, watch out for crocodiles!

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5. Expedition National Park

Words and photos: Kev Smith

For something left of centre, a trip to this hidden paradise is well recommended. Located 500km northwest of Brisbane, Expedition National Park is a hidden gem in Central Queensland’s sandstone country.

Spanning just over 1000km², the park offers a remote wilderness experience, with rugged 4×4 tracks, tranquil gorges and waterholes, making it an ideal destination for off-road enthusiasts. While some sections are accessible by 2WD, a 4×4 vehicle is highly recommended to fully explore the park’s stunning landscapes and remote corners. Visitors should be self-sufficient, as the park is isolated with limited facilities.

The park’s highlights include several campgrounds, such as Starkvale, accessible only by 4×4, which has toilets, firepits and non-potable water.

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For more secluded camping, Beilba and Lonesome Bush Camp are excellent options, with the latter offering a peaceful, unserviced camp with breathtaking views of the Dawson River. Bookings are essential for all campsites, especially during peak seasons.

Taroom, 380km north of Brisbane, serves as the gateway to Expedition NP. This small town offers a variety of local attractions, including Chain Lagoons, Lake Murphy Conservation Park, and fishing at Dawson River. Taroom is also home to historical landmarks, such as the Leichhardt Tree, marked by the 1844 explorer, Ludwig Leichhardt.

Access to Expedition NP is via several roads, though rain can close some tracks. The main entry into the park leads to Robinson Gorge, where visitors can explore deep gorges, striking sandstone cliffs and palm-lined rivers. For those with 4×4 capability, the track to Starkvale Creek offers a rewarding experience, passing through remote cattle stations and historical cattle yards.

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Once at Starkvale, the campsite beside the creek is pristine, with clean facilities and a tranquil atmosphere.

From here, a 4×4 track leads to Cattle Dip Gorge, where sweeping views of the water-filled rock pools can be enjoyed. Hiking trails, such as the Robinson Gorge Lookout and Shepherds Peak Track, offer spectacular views and the opportunity to immerse in the park’s wild beauty.

The area is part of the Sandstone Belt, stretching over 82,000km² across Central Queensland. The landscape is shaped by millions of years of geological history, with layers of ancient sand worn away to reveal dramatic rock formations. The park conserves a variety of plant communities and protects vulnerable species, including several animals listed as endangered.

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In the late 1800s, the land was used as a sheep station, and remnants of old shepherd huts can still be found scattered throughout the park.

The nearby Robinson Gorge Track is a low-range 4×4 route that traverses creek crossings, rutted roads and steep climbs. Oil Bore Road then heads towards Lake Nuga Nuga, a large natural waterbody in the Arcadia Valley. The lake is a haven for birdlife and offers bush camping by its shores, with stunning views of Mount Warrinilla.

The Lonesome Bush Camp, located high above the Dawson River, is accessible by Arcadia Valley Road and offers a tranquil setting, perfect for unwinding.

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From here, the Mount Jiman Loop passes dramatic rock formations and vivid earth-coloured cliffs.

The drive to Karingbal Pass is another highlight, with steep, rugged tracks leading to spectacular views across the valley and surrounding sandstone cliffs. The area is known for its ancient bottle trees and cycads, adding to the region’s unique natural beauty.

While Carnarvon Gorge often steals the spotlight in the region, Expedition NP is a rewarding alternative for those seeking adventure, history and stunning landscapes. Whether hiking, camping, or tackling challenging 4×4 tracks, this remote park offers an unforgettable experience in one of Queensland’s most ancient and unspoiled regions.

No matter if you are going bush for a couple of days or for an extended amount of time, you need to take water with you.

Jerry cans are fine but they can be a hassle to store and access, while dedicated under-vehicle water tanks can be expensive. These PAK Offroad tanks are a convenient solution.

There are four tanks in the range: the handy 50-litre Rak Tank that mounts on a roof-rack and is designed to mount a set of traction boards to; the 40-litre Wheel Arch that is designed to fit in the side of a ute-tub; the 40-litre Tub Tank that fits across the back of a ute tub; and the 40-litre Footwell that is designed to fit across the floor in front of the back seat of any wagon or dual-cab ute.

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We opted to fit the 40-litre Footwell tank to our Troopie, which we have occasionally transferred across to our Patrol for those occasions when we need to carry extra water for an extended trip.

The tanks are made in Australia from UV-resistant and drinking-water grade material which is BPA free.

Internal baffles reduce the water sloshing around, while two largish screw-top vents allow easy and quick filling while also allowing the supplied rechargeable water pump to be quickly mounted to pump water from the tank into a pot or kettle.

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This tank can be easily and quickly removed or fitted and while it hasn’t got any dedicated mounting fixtures it would be relatively easy to run a strap over the top of it to hold it in place on the floor of the vehicle.

If there is any criticism of the unit it is the supplied pump which can be a bit slow if filling a large pot, but otherwise this tank is an easy way to carry 40 litres of water, and it’s covered by a lifetime warranty on the tank itself, with 12 months warranty on fittings.

Nestled deep within the rugged landscapes of Australia’s Red Centre, Palm Valley stands as a stunning oasis, defying the arid and harsh environment that surrounds it.

Located in the Finke Gorge National Park, Palm Valley is a place of unique contrasts, where towering red sandstone cliffs frame a verdant strip of greenery, creating a remarkable pocket of life amidst the surrounding desert country.

For travellers seeking an unforgettable adventure, the valley offers a glimpse into an ancient world, where geology, botany, and Indigenous culture come together to form a truly extraordinary experience.

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Getting there

Palm Valley is about 138km west of Alice Springs via Larapinta Drive. The journey into Palm Valley is an adventure in itself.

Accessible via a four-wheel-drive track, the sometimes rough terrain leading into the valley adds to its allure, making it a destination for those who thirst for exploration. As you approach the valley, the landscape transitions from open desert plains to deep gorges, dramatic cliffs and rugged ridges that seem to have been carved by time itself.

The turnoff to Palm Valley is signposted and has an information board. It is also an excellent spot to air down your tyres for the upcoming corrugations and Finke riverbed sections. If a recent flow has filled waterholes in the river, you may also encounter some deep water crossings.

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I saw plenty of horse crap on the track but couldn’t see any horses until after rounding a corner, there they were on the other side of the river, a small herd in spectacular condition.

From Larapinta Drive, it is 12km to the entrance of the national park, which has an electrified mat at the gate to prevent horses from entering. Once you cross Palm Creek, there is another information board, which is 2km from the campground. You can find out where your campsite is by looking at the information board at the campground’s entrance. Sites must be booked and paid for online before arriving.

Bring your own firewood and share the fire with others; it’s a great way to meet fellow travellers. There are gas barbecues and stoves, plus non-potable bore water in limited amounts. The showers are solar-heated, so having one in the afternoon is better than first thing in the morning.

The drive from the campground to Palm Valley is four-wheel drive only and provides plenty of challenges where low range may be required, although the track has been simplified over the years.

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Extraordinary geography

What makes Palm Valley so special is its unique geography. It is part of the Finke Gorge National Park, renowned for its striking landscapes and ancient geological formations.

The valley sits within the Finke River system, one of the oldest river systems in the world. While most of the region around Palm Valley is dry and inhospitable, the valley itself is a surprising oasis sustained by underground springs that provide a steady water source.

The valley’s walls rise steeply from the ground, with rich red and orange hues that glow under the Central Australian sun. Erosion over millions of years has shaped the valley, with sandstone formations that tower over the palm groves below. These cliffs, some as high as 300m, create a dramatic backdrop for the lush vegetation that thrives within the valley floor.

Cycad Valley can be found on the drive out to Palm Valley and is best viewed later in the day when the sun offers better light. It’s a 4km drive from the campground and a nice spot to escape the heat. From there, it’s 1.6km to the end of the track, where you’ll find the carpark for Palm Valley.

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Flora and fauna

Palm Valley’s extraordinary flora sets it apart from other desert landscapes in the Red Centre.

The valley is home to a unique species of palm found nowhere else called the Red Cabbage Palm (Livistona mariae). This ancient palm is a living relic, a survivor from when Central Australia was covered in lush rainforests. Today, these palms grow in small, isolated pockets within the valley, sheltered by the cliffs and sustained by the underground water supply.

The Red Cabbage Palm can grow up to 20m tall, with long fan-shaped fronds that provide shade and a cool respite from the harsh desert heat. Walking through Palm Valley feels like stepping into a different world, where the sounds of the wind and the rustling palms create an atmosphere of tranquillity and mystery.

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These palms are thought to have survived here for more than 15 million years, a testament to their resilience in the face of dramatic climatic changes.

In addition to the palms, Palm Valley is also home to various other plant species that have adapted to its unique conditions. These include cycads, acacias, and other arid-zone species that thrive in the semi-permanent waterholes found within the valley. The flora here starkly contrasts the barren landscape outside the valley, making Palm Valley a true botanical wonder.

Palm Valley offers several walking trails that allow visitors to experience the valley’s unique environment up close. The most popular of these is the Arankaia Walk, a 2km loop that takes you through the valley’s heart, past the towering Red Cabbage Palms and along the banks of the waterholes.

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The trail offers stunning views of the surrounding cliffs and is an excellent way to appreciate the contrast between the lush valley floor and the rugged desert beyond.

The Mpulungkinya Track is a 5km loop walk that goes further along the Valley and deeper into the arid sandstone plateau above the palms. Take drinking water with you as climbing to the top of the escarpment is thirsty work.

Although the valley is small, it is a haven for wildlife that has adapted to its unique environment. Birds are among the most visible inhabitants of Palm Valley, with species such as the spinifex pigeon, grey shrike-thrush, and the iconic Australian ringneck parrot often seen flitting between the palms. These birds are attracted to the permanent water sources and the abundance of food the palms and other plants provide.

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Reptiles are also common in Palm Valley, with various species of lizards and snakes making their home in the rocky crevices and warm sands.

The Centralian tree frog, an endemic species to the region, can sometimes be found near the waterholes. It is one of the few amphibians that has adapted to life in the desert.

Mammals, though less frequently seen, also inhabit the valley. These include the shy black-footed rock-wallaby, which can occasionally be spotted bounding across the rocky slopes, and various species of bats that emerge at night to feed on insects.

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The presence of these animals adds to the sense of Palm Valley as a hidden sanctuary, a place where life thrives in an otherwise harsh and unforgiving landscape.

For those looking for an extended adventure, the Mpaara Walk is a 5km loop that takes you into the surrounding gorges and offers panoramic views of the valley. This walk also provides opportunities to learn about the area’s Indigenous significance, with interpretive signs along the trail explaining the stories of the Western Arrernte people.

Kalarranga Walk starts from the same carpark and is a 2.5km return walk that ends at a lookout with fantastic landscape views.

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Indigenous culture

For thousands of years, Palm Valley and the surrounding Finke Gorge National Park have been a place of deep cultural significance for the Western Arrernte people, the traditional custodians of the land.

The valley and its waterholes are considered sacred, and the palms themselves are believed to be ancestors, carrying spiritual importance in the Dreamtime stories of the Arrernte people.

According to these stories, Palm Valley is connected to the Rainbow Serpent, which shaped the land and its features. The presence of water in the valley, which has allowed life to thrive in such an arid environment, is seen as a gift from the Rainbow Serpent. Indigenous rock art and ceremonial sites can be found throughout Finke Gorge National Park, offering glimpses into the region’s rich cultural heritage.

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Today, the Western Arrernte people maintain a strong connection to the land, and visitors to Palm Valley are encouraged to respect the area’s cultural significance.

Guided tours led by Indigenous rangers provide valuable insights into the valley’s spiritual and cultural history, allowing travellers to better appreciate the land and its people.

Palm Valley is a place of natural and cultural significance and an important conservation area. The valley’s fragile ecosystem is carefully managed to ensure the survival of its unique plant and animal species, particularly the red cabbage palm, which is listed as vulnerable due to its limited range and the threats posed by climate change and human activity.

The Northern Territory Parks and Wildlife Service, in partnership with the local Indigenous community, protects the valley’s delicate environment while allowing visitors to experience its beauty. Strict guidelines minimise the impact of tourism, and you are encouraged to tread lightly and respect the land and its cultural significance.

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Hermannsburg

On your way to or out of the national park, it is recommended that you explore historic Hermannsburg.

Known today for its rich Aboriginal heritage, the town has a storied past, rooted in both the Western Arrernte people’s Indigenous culture and German Lutherans’ missionary work. Over time, Hermannsburg became a symbol of cross-cultural engagement and resilience, with the Western Arrernte people maintaining a solid connection to their ancestral lands while adapting to the influence of European settlers.

In 1877, the arrival of two German Lutheran missionaries, Pastors A. H. Kempe and Wilhelm Schwarz, laid the foundation of Hermannsburg as a European settlement. The missionaries sought to establish a mission to spread Christianity among the Indigenous people, following a wave of missionary activity across Australia during the 19th century.

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They named the settlement ‘Hermannsburg’ after the town of Hermannsburg in Lower Saxony, Germany, where their mission was supported.

The early years of the mission were difficult, as the missionaries struggled with the harsh desert environment, isolation, and initial resistance from the Arrernte people, who were understandably wary of European newcomers. However, over time, the mission established itself as a central institution, providing food, education, and medical care to the local Indigenous population.

The missionaries, while promoting Christianity, also attempted to protect the Arrernte people from the worst excesses of colonial violence, which was rampant across much of the Northern Territory as European settlers sought to expand pastoral activities.

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One of the most significant cultural contributions to emerge from Hermannsburg in the 20th century was the development of the Hermannsburg School of Art.

This movement was spearheaded by Albert Namatjira, an Arrernte man born at the Hermannsburg Mission in 1902. Namatjira is best known for his distinctive watercolour paintings, which depict the rugged beauty of the Central Australian landscape.

Namatjira’s work gained widespread recognition worldwide, and he became the first Aboriginal Australian to achieve commercial success as an artist. His art was a unique fusion of European painting techniques and Aboriginal perspectives on the land, capturing the country’s deep spiritual significance in a style accessible to a broader audience.

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Today, you can pay a small fee to wander the Lutheran Mission grounds and get a glimpse of life as it was for the early pioneers and the Arrernte people. Several outbuildings, including the old tannery, are open for viewing.

The second white-washed Bethlehem Church still stands in the centre of the grounds, and the old bell still hangs between two old tree branches. The Kata Anga Tea Rooms are housed in Carl and Frieda Strehlow’s House, built for the Pastor and his family in 1897.

If you have a sense of adventure and the right gear, four-wheel driving in Palm Valley is an exciting way to experience the rugged beauty of the Red Centre. The track into the valley is challenging, with river crossings, rocky sections, and deep sand adding to the excitement. The journey to Palm Valley is as much a part of the adventure as the destination, with stunning views of the surrounding ranges and the ever-changing landscape of the desert.

Construction of The Ghan rail line commenced in 1878 at Port Augusta in South Australia, reaching Oodnadatta in 1891 and eventually Alice Springs in 1929.

While the rail line was sited so as to best guarantee a supply of water needed by the steam locomotives of the day, it was water that ultimately led to the line’s demise.

The service was notoriously unreliable with the track regularly closed by washouts. So much so that a flatcar immediately behind the locomotive carried spare sleepers and tools that enabled crew and passengers to make repairs on the run.

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The introduction of diesel locomotives that were not dependent on a water source saw the rail service moved into drier country further to the west in the 1970s, resulting in the closure of the Oodnadatta line.

The road north to Oodnadatta shadows the Old Ghan railway line and many places you pass have a connection (perhaps even owing their existence) to the original Ghan. Our first stop, Holowiliena Station, 40km east of Hawker, was no exception, having relied on the railway to cart their wool clip south.

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Station life

Holowiliena is notable for being the only Australian pastoral lease still in the hands of the original settler’s family. It is also notable for having been featured on the ABC’s Restoration Australia series several years ago when the station owners restored an 1850s cellar and bunkhouse.

The latter could sleep up to 14 workers, despite it only measuring about 5m x 2.5m. The restored cellar was built into a river bank near the homestead to keep meat, vegetables and preserved fruit cool, and to store explosives. Why explosives? Before modern chainsaws, the easiest (but perhaps not the safest) way to gather firewood was to stuff an old fallen red gum with explosives – instant firewood!

The station offers secluded bush camping and shearers quarters accommodation, along with an occasional history tour of the homestead buildings. The six generations of owners kept daily diaries since the 1860s, providing a detailed insight into station life.

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And with the property having been handed down through the generations much of the original equipment and artefacts have been retained.

The 1850s station store is a treasure trove of history – including a 1930s electric fly zapper. This homebuilt contraption consisted of a wooden cage of metal bars with a large hole in the base. The idea was to put it over an old chop bone, connect it to a car battery and magneto, and hey presto – no more flies.

When the present owners, Frances and Luke Frahn, took over the property from their parents there was a blacksmith’s forge which hadn’t been used in many years but had been left just as it was when the last blacksmith walked out the door. While Luke didn’t have any smithing experience, he’s since mastered the trade and now provides a demonstration of blacksmithing as part of the station’s history tours.

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Our allocated campsite was several kilometres from the homestead on the banks of a dry creek bed lined by ancient red gums.

With a fireplace and wood provided you only have to set up your camp, sit back and, with not another soul to be seen or heard, enjoy the solitude.

The 35,000ha property has a number of 4×4 tracks that visitors can drive for a small fee, and while these tracks are not particularly challenging, the two to three hours they each take to cover provides some great views of the property.

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With plenty of space to camp, Holowiliena is an ideal spot for a group to spend a few days. And, if the group is large enough, I’m sure Frances would run a one-off station history tour for visitors.

Journeying north, near Hawker, the extensive ruins of Kanyaka Station mark the site of what was one of the largest sheep stations in the district before it was abandoned following massive stock losses from drought. Set back off the main road it’s a pleasant place to take a break under the large gums along a dry creek bed and explore the ruins.

While the Ghan didn’t stop at Kanyaka, it passed nearby and would have been a valuable lifeline, transporting wool and supplies from the Wilson siding (marked by more stone ruins) a handful of kilometres north.

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North to Parachilna

Past Hawker the road to Oodnadatta is sealed as far as Marree and is flanked in the east by the impressive Flinders Ranges whose jagged profile first appears in the distance as a featureless steel blue silhouette.

The road makes its closest approach to this seemingly unbroken range rising vertically from the flat plain at a point near where it forms the rugged western wall of Wilpena Pound. It’s also here that you will find Edeowie Station.

Edeowie offers secluded campsites and some serviced accommodation. The campsites, which are easily accessed by vans and campers, look out onto the Heysen Range a few kilometres to the east and which glow in the warm first and last light of day. There are some basic 4×4 drives on station tracks and self-guided walks around the ruins of the old Edeowie township and nearby Bunyeroo Gorge.

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The property also has a restored shepherd’s hut for rent. Set on the banks of Brachina Creek (and looking like something out of an old western) it offers basic amenities with vehicle access via nearby Brachina Gorge to the attractions of the Ikara Flinders Ranges National Park.

Parachilna, previously a railhead for the Ghan, is best known these days as a watering hole for passing tourists. At the Prairie Hotel you can pick up a meal and a beer while widening your culinary tastes with an emu rissole, a kangaroo schnitzel, or perhaps go the whole hog and have the feral feast!

There are some great campsites to be found in nearby Parachilna Gorge. Some are set well back off the road and most are camper and caravan friendly. Holiday times see dozens of vans, campers and tents set up along the gorge, so while there is no shortage of sites, in busy times (to ensure you don’t get the spot nobody else wanted) it’s a good idea to arrive early.

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If you can’t survive without 240V and phone service, Angorichina Village at the eastern end of the gorge has a caravan park with full facilities and a store selling fuel and supplies (including beer, wine and spirits).

Moolooloo Station, a few kilometres north of the gorge, is yet another station stay offering secluded campsites in country much like Wilpena (but, importantly, without the tourists). There is also an interesting 4×4 PAR (public access road) that runs in part through Moolooloo and the impressive Nuccaleena copper mine ruins.

The Mt Samuel drive near Angorichina is one not to be missed by any diehard 4×4 enthusiasts. Access can be obtained from Alpana Station just south of Blinman for a modest fee. With steep climbs and views from the top of the range that seemingly go on forever it is a top drive. Apart from the aptly named Mt Buggery Gorge it’s not overly challenging, but 4×4 experience is a must.

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Saving history

North of Parachilna and a 9km detour to the east is Beltana, previously a Ghan siding. In its heyday around the turn of the last century, when copper mining was booming, the town had a population of 500.

With the demise of mining, closure of the rail line and the main road being rerouted, the population has fallen to about 30 but it is worth a visit to see the historic buildings of yesteryear.

Nearby Leigh Creek seems to be following in Beltana’s footsteps since the 2015 closure of the town’s coal mine. With a population of 2500 in the 1980s it has all the facilities you would expect to find in any large modern town – wide tree-lined streets, a supermarket, school, caravan park, airport etc. However, the population has dwindled to less than 100 and the town is reliant on the passing tourist trade for its continued existence.

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For now, it remains a place where you can stock up on fuel and supplies (water can be purchased from the local caravan park).

Further north, the abandoned township of Farina was founded in the 1870s after several unseasonal years of good rainfall led to the belief the area would support cereal growing (the name Farina means flour). The town rapidly grew to have a population of 600, but the good years soon reverted to their more arid norm.

Combined with the closure of nearby mines and the rail line, the town was slowly abandoned and by 1967 it was deserted. In 2008 a group was formed to restore and preserve the township’s ruins.

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That work is ongoing and were it not for their dedicated efforts more of the town’s old buildings would have been lost to the ravages of time and tourists.

Farina’s restored 1880s underground bakery opens its doors between May and July each year, and in the process raises money to assist with the ongoing restoration works. Recent changes include one of the last diesel locomotives to run on the old Ghan line being trucked to Farina to become a static display at the site of the town’s old railway station.

The ruins are on the property of Farina Station which maintains a campsite along a creek adjoining the old township. With showers, toilets, shaded campsites and firewood available from the station homestead it’s a favourite place to stay.

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In contrast to the largely treeless plains surrounding Farina, the creek’s course is heavily vegetated.

In the morning and evening, the trees come alive with flashes of green and gold from budgerigars performing high-speed aerial manoeuvres while noisily calling to each other. A pair of nankeen kestrels had taken up residence in a dead tree near our camp and when these small raptors were around the budgerigars would understandably make themselves scarce.

Given the prevalence of birdlife, a short loop walking track has been established by the station to enable visitors to spot birdlife while enjoying a peaceful stroll.

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The Oodnadatta Track

Marree is the start of the Oodnadatta Track and a major stop for fuel and supplies. Those requiring water for vans and campers can purchase it for $5 from the local caravan park.

The condition of the track can vary from pretty good to bloody terrible depending on recent weather and maintenance. Our run up to Coward Springs saw sections where towing at 80km/h wasn’t a challenge, and then once lulled into a sense of false security you’d hit a patch of corrugations where there wasn’t any speed that didn’t threaten to loosen your fillings. In places the corrugations were like driving over railway sleepers.

There’s not much scenery on this part of the drive but 50km after Marree the quirky Mutonia Sculpture Park is worth a stop, as is the Lake Eyre South lookout where the white salt surface stretches to the horizon. While the view is impressive, what you can see is only a fraction of Lake Eyre which extends further north for 180km.

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It is worth driving out to Halligan Point from William Creek and perhaps stay overnight to capture an unforgettable sunrise or sunset over the dry salt surface of the lake.

Coward Springs (another siding on the old Ghan railway) has a large campground with Tamarisk shaded campsites, showers and toilets (but no power or water). It’s a popular overnight stop with one of the major attractions being a spa fed by an artesian bore where guests can relax in the warm water and wash off the dust from their travels.

The old stationmaster’s house is now used as a residence and opposite it is another small, restored building which serves as a museum, housing a range of historical photos and other information.

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The owners of Coward Springs are establishing the property as a working date farm with various date products being sold through their coffee shop – the Date Shak (sic). Given the queues of caffeine deprived campers in the morning, I suspect coffee sales are a large part of the camp’s income.

Before leaving Coward Springs visitors should definitely visit Mound Springs – although if the badly corrugated track in from the main road hasn’t been graded since our visit, some may wonder why. Blanche Cup and the Bubbler are the two main natural artesian springs here where water bubbles to the surface.

Over time minerals precipitated out of the water have created the large mounds around the springs. Overlooking the springs is Hamilton Hill, an extinct spring which must have taken eons to be slowly built to such height.

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William Creek, 72km further along the track is an alternative overnight stop for many, however, for my money, Coward Springs has better ambience. Of course, if you want a pub meal or are planning a flight over Lake Eyre, then William Creek might be for you.

The ruins of the old Peake Telegraph Station, a few kilometres off the track and about 90km north of William Creek, is an interesting piece of history worth visiting. The 4×4 track in is rough and slow, and not somewhere to tow a van (although I easily towed a camper in there a few years ago). Established in 1870 and abandoned in 1891, Peake was one of 12 repeater stations on the Overland Telegraph Line.

The Algebuckina Bridge over the Neales River, 100km short of Oodnadatta, is perhaps the most photographed railway bridge in Australia. Looking up from the dry riverbed, it’s hard to imagine that floodwaters have in the past been high enough to almost lap at the bridge decking. I’m not sure if it’s true or not, but near the southern end of the bridge there is a car wreck.

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The story goes that it was being driven over the bridge to avoid the flooded road crossing (apparently a past practice by the locals) only to meet a train coming the other way.

Until the track was extended to Alice Springs, for many years Oodnadatta was the end of the line for the Ghan. These days it is best known for the Pink Roadhouse, the last place for fuel and supplies for those heading north to Dalhousie Springs and the Simpson Desert, or west to the Stuart Highway and Alice Springs.

Whether it is to see some of yesteryear’s rail history before it finally turns to dust, or just ticking it off your bucket list, the Oodnadatta Track remains an iconic 4×4 destination.

There is a continuing fascination with wild places that compels us to seek them out. Not to claim to have conquered, but to be able to have been there. The Simpson Desert has long been one of those places high on the list of many outback travellers.

There are many reasons for crossing the Simpson Desert. For some, it’s a tick in their list, for others it’s almost a religious experience. Many years back I interviewed a man many would refer to as one the fathers of vehicular bush travel; the late Mike Leyland crossed the Simpson Desert with his brother in a couple of Land Rovers. Mike recalled, “We didn’t ‘conquer’ it, we just got through it.”

Today, seekers of isolation tend to ignore the popular French Line, and opt toward either the Hay River Track or as we did, the Madigan Line. The latter follows Cecil Madigan’s route taken with camels back in 1939. Madigan was no stranger to isolation, having been to Antarctica with Sir Douglas Mawson, among his other accomplishments.

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Today, you have to content yourself with following Madigan’s route by a mostly well-defined track.

After topping up at Mt Dare, it’s a short run across to Old Andado homestead; the last resident here was Molly Clark, a tough lady if ever there was one, who stayed on after the death of her husband Mac. Molly died back in 2012, but her homestead is considered a museum by most travellers.

Madigan: “Here we found a typical Central Australian cattle station homestead, a corrugated iron house nicely whitewashed”

If you visit here. Leave it as you find it. A caretaker will be found before long to make sure Molly’s home is not desecrated.

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The first morning in the desert is a special time. As you stir from your swag or tent, you appreciate the chill of the early hour, and that unique understanding of your presence in a remote place.

Not far along from Old Andado is the Acacia peuce Conservation Reserve. Dedicated to Molly’s husband Mac Clark, it preserves the few remaining Waddi trees. The name came from the Aboriginal term Waddi, which was a club used as a weapon. The wood in these trees is extremely hard, and therefore very useful as a weapon.

The first morning in the desert is a special time. As you stir from your swag or tent, you appreciate the chill of the early hour, and that unique understanding of your presence in a remote place. Then it’s coffee or tea and breakfast, and into the sandy distance.

One condition of travel here is that you must run west to east. That is the way Madigan did it, and besides, it means there’s less chance of having a head-on at the top of one of the sandhills. But you still need to run a sand flag.

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Soon you will see the first of many sandhills to be crossed, and tyre pressures should be reduced accordingly. On this trip there had been good rain in the area, and the sandhills were not much of a problem. As each sand ridge appears, it’s another up and over. One gone, only 700 or so to come.

Some of these dunes are fairly high, but coming at them from the eastern side they tend to be easier to cross. It’s for this reason it’s all one way from Camp 5 onward. From Madigan Camp 5 you can still turn back, but after that you are committed to finish the rest of the trip.

Like Madigan, we noticed the size of the sandhills begin to increase as we neared the middle of the crossing. The eastern sides were also a lot steeper, and that was verified by the large ‘struggle marks’ we saw. You could clearly see where a vehicle had attempted to drive up the eastern side and only succeeded in digging in. This was obviously one of the reasons for the track to be west to east only.

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Madigan: “Next day, the sandridges became more formidable. They rose eighty feet or more.”

Also due to recent rains the desert was in full bloom with some of the best displays of wild flowers and general greenness I have ever seen out there. The whole place was a riot of colour, with the deep red of the sand contrasting magnificently.

Campsites were not hard to find, and usually selected as much for availability of firewood as much as anything. Wind is a constant thing in the desert, and if you can find a campsite among some low scrub you have a chance of minimising the effects of it. Once again, being a one-vehicle trip made finding a suitable spot a lot easier.

Travel here is also a lot easier if you don’t have a timetable to stick to. There is no lack of things to stop and have a look at, even if it’s just a chance to stretch the legs. Sandhill driving takes a fair bit of concentration and regular breaks are important. The Ranger just kept growling over one sand ridge after another.

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Madigan: “We had been in the Desert a week, and had only put fifty five miles behind us in four days of travelling.”

We kept spotting tracks in the sand in front of us, and they always turned out to be those of either a camel or a dingo.

Eventually we caught up with a dingo. It circled us warily as we got out of the vehicle, but made no attempt to flee. This resulted in some nice pics. We never did catch up to the camels who left the tracks, but another traveller had seen one. Neither animal should be approached; they are living in a wild state and can be dangerous.

Regardless of its comparative isolation, there is still the chance of coming across other travellers on the Madigan Line. We only encountered one bloke on his own, and another group of two vehicles plus a trailbike. There was an unspoken agreement that we camped and travelled separately.

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At Madigan Camp 15 we had to change our plans and follow the Hay River Track.

The crossing of Eyre Creek on the Madigan Line was out of the question due to the depth of water, so we had to continue down to where the Hay River Track met the QAA Line.

Still a good run, although the crossing of the Eyre Creek needs a little momentum. But getting to the QAA Line was like peak hour after the isolation of the Madigan.

The intersection was marked by a large salt lake, and almost immediately convoys of vehicles began to appear, and channel 10 on the UHF was getting busy. We realised at that point that the trip was all but over.

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But it was still a fair way to Birdsville, and still no lack of sandhills.

At this point the Madigan component of the trip was over, but Birdsville was still 201km to the east. Our last camp in the desert was well off the track in the lee of a decent sandhill. The next morning we looked forward to the up and over of Big Red.

There are a number of tracks over the big sand hill these days, so I pointed the Ranger at one that looked okay. We went up and over, then aired up the tyres for the final run into Birdsville.

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Prep, gear, spares and permits

Preparation is the most important part of a successful crossing of the desert. We carried an Iridium satphone (not used) as well as a personal locator beacon.

A UHF radio is essential, as there are call points all along the tracks of the QAA and French lines. Your radio should be kept tuned to channel 10 and at each call point you check the number on the post and call ahead “east/west bound at call point (number).”

We hired our satp hone from Remote Site Technologies and it was relatively cheap at $260 for three weeks. Nothing like peace of mind.

I always carry two spare tyres for any remote-area travel. We had one puncture (stake) and although I carried the usual tyre repair gear we didn’t use it. In any case the tyre turned out to be beyond repair. I also carry a lump of form ply to use as a base plate for the jack. It also sees use as a cutting board.

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There’s a lot of rubbish online about tyre pressures. We found 25psi to be good for us. You can’t make blanket statements about this, there are too many variables involved. So start at 25psi and be prepared to go a bit lower if required.

A sand flag is not simply common sense, it’s required by law. It will only cost a $100 or so from BCF.

We carried 70 litres of water, but due to it being winter we didn’t come close to using it. The traditional drinks around our little fire at night were handled by a glass of some pretty ordinary red.

Firewood is scarce in the desert, so try not to go in for bonfires. Leave the chainsaw at home too; it’s extra weight and then there’s fuel and oil and tools to be considered. Most of the wood out there is very hard and your chainsaw won’t thank you.

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You will need to get a permit from the Central Land Council in Alice Springs. This can be handled online and I had mine in a few days. Email [email protected].

An email to Adria Downs station on [email protected] is also essential. Last minute info on track conditions can be had by calling Mount Dare on (08) 8670 7835.

We left Mount Dare with one 140L tank full plus a couple of jerry cans. We averaged 14L/100km from Mount Dare to Birdsville and had about 64L left in the tank.

Finally, please leave the camper trailer or any other trailer at home. The Mount Dare blokes reckon they get most of their business of vehicle recovery from people towing trailers, and it can cost you north of $10,000 to get rescued. Towing anything across 700 sandhills puts unnecessary strain on the tow vehicle plus the higher fuel consumption involved. The desert can be unpredictable and you never know when it will test you.

A UHF CB radio is as essential to outback travel as a first-aid kit overflowing with bandages, antibiotics and wet wipes, as both can get you out of a real pickle when you need it most.

Getting stuck up to your axles is bad enough, but not having any form of communication with the real world when you’re outside the realm of phone reception can turn a bad situation into an absolute disaster.

There are many stories of unprepared tourists blowing tyres kilometres from civilisation and sitting roadside for hours – if not days – waiting for someone to drive past. A UHF radio is also an ideal tool for communication with other vehicles in your convoy – and no, not just for the banter.

JUMP HEAD

• Why is a UHF radio essential?
• What to look for
• Risky business
• Fixed or handheld
• Antennas
• Repeaters
• Legally restricted channels

Why is a UHF radio essential?

A UHF CB (Ultra High Frequency Citizen Band) radio affords punters the opportunity to explore vast expanses of remote country without fear or concern that, if mechanical failure or driver error should occur, they’ll be stuck rationing their last bottle of water and half a pack of Pringles.

Put simply, the size of the Australian landscape means that cellular coverage is limited in many areas, so a UHF CB radio provides an open communication platform to allow people to communicate across considerable distances without the need for network coverage.

A UHF CB offers the advantage of being able to communicate to anyone in an area of 5 to 8km, but this can be increased if you’re in in a high position and dependent upon the terrain and environment. Another main advantage is easy, accessible comms between vehicles travelling together in a convoy. Anyone who has driven in a convoy understands the benefit of having everyone on the same wavelength, especially between the lead vehicle and the tail-end Charlie.

Doing so can warn trailing vehicles of upcoming obstacles, roadside animals, difficult tracks and oncoming vehicles, and it can also be used to back someone in or navigate someone over a nasty obstacle.

They’re essentially an easy-to-use tool for vehicle-to-vehicle communication, particularly where mobile phone coverage is limited or unreliable due to the location, ensuring peace of mind for all users.

What to look for

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When browsing the radio pages of an aftermarket catalogue, there are a few key things to look out for before punching in your credit card digits.

Build quality, product support (aftersales/warranty), technical support and battery life are non-negotiables, as is the importance of ‘output power’ – as a 5W unit will transmit further than a 1W unit. Also noting the IP ratings of handheld units is critical to ensure you get a waterproof/dustproof model.

Consumers must also ensure the product is ACMA-approved (programmed with Australian channels and meets legal requirements) and is C-tick rated. The C-tick mark is intended for use on products that comply with EMC (electromagnetic compatibility) standards. The label indicates that the product complies with the applicable EMC standard and establishes a traceable link between a product and the supplier responsible for placing it on the Australian or New Zealand market.

It’s important to note that units are designed to be fit for purpose, which means they’ve been punished during testing countless times in the rough environments they’re bound to experience. This is why you should always buy from respected brands.

Other non-essential functions include: a record function; dual speakers with smart microphone technology; and colour LCD screens.

Risky business

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You’ll have peace of mind when purchasing kit from any of the trusted brands – GME, ICOM and Uniden, for example – but what if you want to save a few pennies by venturing into the dark web of online shopping (think: eBay)? Well, it’s risky, and you won’t get the aftersales support of a trusted brand.

Not only is the quality and legitimacy of the product unknown, but the warranty on these alternatives is often questionable as well. As with most things, you get what you pay for. Choosing cheaper alternatives can compromise quality and performance when compared to more established brands.

Other risks include wrong specs and programming; missing and inactive features and accessories; unapproved power supplies; the possibility of a forged product; wrong electronic serial numbers; and no resale value.

Fixed or handheld?

Vehicle-mounted UHF CB radios benefit greatly from being wired up to a larger antenna (more on antennas later), which greatly increases range and use, as well as being connected to the vehicle’s power supply, rather than a battery pack.

This makes fixed radios ideal for long-distance touring when users will be communicating across significant distances, as they are able to be connected to large, high-gain antennas, Fixed-mount radios do not rely on a battery pack; rather they draw power from the vehicle’s 12V battery system.

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The alternative is the handheld radio (that’s a walkie-talkie, kids), popular for on-foot expeditions and the like. The portable units are often lightweight and compact, but require a battery pack to function, meaning run-time is somewhat limited. They also don’t have the range of a vehicle-mounted unit, due to the antenna.

Essentially, portable radios have a very low-gain antenna and generally offer less power, but they’re great out and around the vehicle for general communications and for guiding a vehicle down a difficult track.

Antennas

Choosing an appropriate antenna depends entirely on the kind of off-road driving you’re inclined to do.

For example, if squeezing through tight spaces on slippery rock surfaces is your idea of a Saturday afternoon, then it’s probably advisable to steer clear of long antennas. However, if open-road, long-distance touring is more your thing, then a short antenna should probably be avoided.

Size generally relates to gain, and gain is one of the important factors in selecting an antenna. However, a high-gain antenna is not necessarily the best for all 4WD situations. In hilly terrain, for example, a low-gain (short) antenna is best; a high-gain (long) antenna is best for desert/flat terrain.

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A medium-gain antenna (5 to 6.5dBi) can handle most situations easily enough. Also consider an antenna where the whip can be removed and you can interchange between low- and medium-gain.

There are a handful of different types of antennas available – fixed-mount, magnetic-based, removable mount, on-glass mount and ground independent (ideal for bullbars, etc.) – which can all be affixed to different areas of a 4×4. Punters should also take note of an antenna’s dBi (decibel isotropic) figure, to ensure they get an antenna that best suits their requirements.

All antennas have a dBi figure in their specifications, which relates to how much gain the antenna has. An easy way to think of this is to imagine a car’s headlights: You’re driving along a flat, wide landscape, so a long, narrow light will help you see a greater distance ahead – which would be where a higher gain antenna would work the best as all the waves are pushed straight ahead and behind you for communicating.

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Now imagine driving up a hill with lots of rocks and trees, where you would use a wide-beam headlight to see all around the sides of the vehicle and terrain. If you used the same straight, narrow light beam you used on the flat terrain then, in this situation, it would point straight into the air and would not be a great benefit for you.

dBi options

• 3dBi: Has a wide pattern ideal for city driving, where there are a lot of buildings and obstacles. This style also suits heavily forested and hilly country.
• 6dBi: Is the most common due to its all-round performance and adaptability for multiple environments, including suburban areas and larger rural towns.
• 9dBi: Is designed for flatter terrain and can achieve the longest range possible. These are not ideal where tall obstacles such as trees, hills or buildings may interfere with the signal path.

Repeater. Say that again?

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If you’re in the market for a UHF radio, then you’re guaranteed to hear the word ‘repeater’, but what exactly is it?

Simply, a repeater extends the range of the radio’s coverage. It is a combination of a radio receiver and a radio transmitter that receives a signal and retransmits it, so that two-way radio signals can cover longer distances. They’re located up high, typically on top of towers or mountains.

UHF Repeaters allow you to extend the range of the transmission by receiving and automatically rebroadcasting a transmission using an antenna located in a high location. In some situations, depending on the location of repeater stations, transmissions can be extended from 30 to 100 kilometres.

Legally restricted channels

• Channels 5 and 35: Designated emergency channels.
• Channel 11: Call channel for initiating calls.
• Channels 61, 62 and 63: Reserved for future use.
• Channels 22 and 23: Telemetry & Telecommand only.