THERE’S no doubt getting stuck is a big part of the job when you’re out in the sticks; and for the most part some experience, a pair of recovery tracks, or a snatch from a mate and you’re on your way again.
But what happens when you’re bogged to the eyeballs, all the snatch straps are snapped, and, worse still, the tide is on its way in and you’re below the water line? That’s when guys like Shaun Barrett and his team at Westcoast 4X4 Creations & Recovery come in real handy.
They bring a tonne of 4×4 experience along with up to seven tons of off-road artillery to get you out, at any hour of the day or night anywhere along the left coast of Australia.
Case in point being quite possibly the ultimate recovery rig right here. Shaun’s 1986 U1700 Unimog. Originally purchased from the Australian Defence Force’s surplus stock mid-2019 after doing around 13 years in military service, it has been rescuing stricken vehicles all over the Sandgroper state ever since.
One does not simply buy a ’Mog and start a recovery business, and Shaun is no stranger to the off-road life, with two suitably kitted-out Patrols doing the early recovery duties. But the need to go bigger had Shaun eyeing off the surplus auctions.
“We decided to do it, as that kind of service wasn’t available on the scale that we wanted. Back in the day when I was FIFO, I’d spend a lot of time out there (in the bush) and people would pay you for recoveries. The ’Mog was a personal want, so I decided to get it and let it pay for itself, but I didn’t expect it all to take off like it did,” Shaun says.
As capable as the Unimog is there’s always room for improvement, and given these trucks are designed to get the job done over everything else, some upgrades were needed to maintain some form of personal comfort. Simple comforts, like being able to hear or walk upright after a day in the saddle. A full eight boxes of sound deadener were spread throughout the Mog’s cab to start with.
“It’s good now,” Shaun said. “Two layers of sound deadener, carpet and ISRI (suspension) seats have made the world of difference, but doing 800km in it hurts. It’s mainly the vibration that gets to you. It’s not too bad once you zone out, but …”
BIGGER IS BETTER
ADDING more footprint than the standard ADF issue tyres, Shaun fitted some fatter Michelin 395/85/R20 XZL All Terrain donuts. At an eye-watering $2200 each they certainly didn’t come cheap, but after seeing the Unimog fully loaded with two wrecks while grinding all four tyres into the dirt trying to skull-drag another wreck from its resting place, the decision to opt for more traction was a simple one.
Having eight gears available in forward and reverse to put all the torque down from the 5.7L inline-six OM352A Mercedes-Benz engine helped, but when it comes to bigger is better, this monster has got it in spades.
Keeping an eye on the Westcoast 4X4 Recovery Instagram and Facebook pages will show just how hard the team are at it.
“Some weeks I’m doing eight to 10 recoveries … with some weekends alone we’re doing six or seven,” Shaun revealed. “Some weeks I’m doing one every night. Sundays are usually a guarantee because everyone needs to get to work the next day.”
Demand has continued to increase with word of the ’Mog getting out. A lot of the team’s work keeps them within a 70km radius of home, however they aren’t averse to throwing a few miles under those gigantic 46-inch tyres to rescue a stricken 4WD, or getting on the tools if the recovery needs it.
A recent example saw them dragging a broken Troopy out of the dunes around Bremer Bay way down along the WA south coast.
“It had just come back from a trip around Australia and had sheered the rear diff pinion off, so we had to pull the rear axles just to get it out over the dunes,” says Shaun.
CARNAGE CHAOS
IF you were wanting to hear stories of absolute 4×4 carnage then step right up folks, you’ve come to the right place.
“The worst recent recovery involved a Hilux which had sought help from a lot of private 4WDers before calling us,” Shaun tells us. “They basically dismantled the car trying to recover it from the mud with snatch straps, even ripping the tow bar out of the chassis.”
After being stuck in the mud for four days, Shaun and the ’Mog went out. To give an idea on how stuck this clearly non-unbreakable Hilux was, the initial attempt showed the extent of the situation.
“On the first (winch) pull we picked the whole front of the car right up off the ground while the rear diff stayed in the mud.”
Suffice to say, the ’Lux was a complete write-off, but it could very well have been a different story if the owners had called Shaun earlier than they did.
When you’re on to a good thing, they say stick to it, so Shaun has recently returned back from a trip to the northwest of WA to bring home a second Unimog.
“For these long trips I have Sarah, my partner, along, who’s always been in the passenger seat no matter what.”
The up-spec Unimog comes equipped with an Hydrauliska Industri AB crane behind the cab. Future mods will see it copping a 15-tonne mechanical winch that’s currently waiting in the workshop, as well as mandatory layers of sound deadening and carpet.
It’s only been a year since kicking off the recovery service, but the effect has been a positive one for Shaun.
“Since we’ve been operating, we’ve seen a dramatic reduction in the amount of vehicles being recovered instead of being left on the beach,” says Shaun.
The day 4X4 Australia joined Shaun, he and his bobcat-driving mate Shaun (Core Contracting Services) were on a mission to clear a bunch of car wrecks around the popular Wilbinga area north of Shaun’s northern Perth suburbs base. Despite the wrecks being loaded up with sand and rubbish, the ’Mog was able to drag the wrecks to a staging area before being taken away for scrap. This took the entire day and was done free of charge after consultation with local government and rangers.
“We wanted to do our bit to keep areas open,” said Shaun. “When we want to go 4WDing and fishing, we use that area quite a bit and we’re sick of seeing wrecks.”
Dumped vehicles are a big problem for the off-road community, as the more wrecks the powers-that-be see left around, the easier it is for them to close tracks, set up monitoring cameras and hand out fines. Watching the team clear nine wrecks in a day is a highly commendable effort. You’d think a well-earned rest was in order come home-time, but not when there’s a drowned 100 Series in need of assistance in the southern foothills of Perth.
When there’s this much commitment to helping 4WDers, and with company policy maintaining “no-one gets left behind,” safer recoveries and happier off-roading is on the cards for the future of everyone involved.
MOG GENEALOGY
THE Unimog, or Universal Motor Gerat (Universal Power Unit), was first produced by Boehringer for 1948 as an alternative to the tractor, however the idea to use equal-sized wheels on all four corners was unique, allowing 4WD on a farm tool possible.
Daimler AG (formerly Daimler-Benz) took over production from 1951, selling under the Mercedes-Benz brand we know today. Not much has changed from those first post-war models sporting spartan interiors and fundamental theme of a do-it-all workhorse, however the legendary durability stuck and is still a mainstay of the brand to this day.
September new vehicle sales in Australia showed a slow but steady trend back up, with the total number of new vehicle sales down 21.8 per cent compared to September 2019.
One-tonne ute sales continue to lead the market, with the Ford Ranger and Toyota Hilux leading the charge – it’s the same two names at the top of the 4×4 sales ranks.
The Hilux began to claw its way back after the runout of the previous model resulted in its lowest figure for a long time in the month of August, but the updated Hilux was strong in September. Expect it to be challenging the Ranger for the number one spot by next month.
While Hilux sales mightn’t have been at their best, we doubt Toyota is feeling the pinch. No other company will come near it for total new car sales, and its latest Rav4 SUV has topped the sales for the previous two months, only slipping back to third in September.
Three of the top-10 selling cars in Australia and four of the top 10 4x4s are Toyotas, and the brand holds 19 per cent of the total new vehicle market.
Also making a comeback with a new model in September was Isuzu with its all-new D-MAX ute up to sixth place for the month. Expect more from this one as its sales hit full swing over the remainder of 2020.
Utes might make up the lion’s share of 4×4 sales, but the LandCruiser 200 and Prado buck the trend with steady, strong sales each month. Isuzu’s MU-X is often up there on the charts but dropped back in September, while the Ford Everest made a rare appearance as the tenth best-selling 4×4 for the month.
While LC200 sales are strong and steady its only real rival is the Nissan Patrol Y62, and its sales are up 14.6 per cent in 2020. To put that in perspective, Nissan has sold 1671 Patrol so far in 2020, while Toyota has sold 9222 Cruisers.
A 4×4 wagon we haven’t seen in the rankings for a while is the Land Rover Defender, which registered 85 sales of its all-new model in September. The factory that builds the Defender was shut down for two months during the height of the pandemic in Europe, and the first batch of Defenders that arrived in Australia was limited in numbers. In fact, all of the diesel models were sold and only the P400 Defenders are available now until the next batch arrives next year.
We don’t expect to see the Defender selling Land Cruiser or Prado numbers anytime soon, but it’s good to see it back.
4X4 SALES: SEPTEMBER 2020
- Ford Ranger: 3454
- Toyota Hilux: 2790
- Mitsubishi Triton: 1234
- Toyota LC200: 990
- Nissan Navara: 919
- Isuzu D-MAX: 856
- Toyota Prado: 820
- Toyota LC79: 609
- LDV T60: 582
- Ford Everest: 517
4X4 SALES: YEAR TO DATE (SEPTEMBER 2020)
- Ford Ranger: 26,377
- Toyota Hilux: 23,053
- Mitsubishi Triton: 12,148
- Toyota Prado: 10,752
- Toyota LC200: 9222
- Toyota LC79: 6982
- Nissan Navara: 6911
- Holden Colorado: 6572
- Isuzu D-MAX: 6081
- Mazda BT-50: 5343
TERRAIN TAMER EXHAUST SYSTEM – TOYOTA HILUX
THE crew at Terrain Tamer has put to market their new range of High Flow Exhaust systems, suited to fit the Toyota Hilux and the V8 LandCruiser 79 Series.
The Australian-made system is constructed from 409 stainless steel and coated with black heat-proof thermal paint. To boost performance, the system features a double-braided flex joint and three-inch mandrel bent tube.
Other features include a large-diameter turbo dump pipe, a 200 CPI catalytic converter with a high-flow metallic substrate, and heavy-duty brackets and hangers. Terrain Tamer’s High Flow Exhaust Systems come with a five-year warranty.
Website: terraintamer.com
AMC CYLINDER HEADS
AMC is a European OEM approved manufacturer of cylinder heads, camshaft kits and head bolts, and the company has cylinder heads available to fit many popular four-wheel drives including the Amarok, Hilux, LandCruiser, Land Rover, Navara, Pajero, Patrol, Prado and Triton.
The cylinder heads, manufactured with the latest precision equipment and highest grade materials, will extend the life of your 4×4. The products ome with a two-year warranty.
Website: www.amc.es
SSANGYONG SUSPENSION KIT BY IRONMAN 4X4
IRONMAN 4×4 is the official tuning partner of SsangYong, and the Aussie company has a full range of suspension kit for both the Musso and Rexton.
Suspension componentry includes performance and constant load springs that are designed to significantly boost loaded ride height, as well as Nitro Gas Shock Absorbers. Ironman 4×4 also has premium underbody protection specifically designed for both SsangYongs.
The equipment is available to order now via Ironman − head to the website for more information.
Website: www.ironman.com
YOU wouldn’t wear a pair of thongs to go bushwalking, nor would you wear hiking boots to the beach.
The same principle applies to 4×4 footwear, with off-road tyres specifically manufactured and constructed for an assortment of lifestyles, from long-distance touring to serious mud- and rock-crawling, and everything in between.
Installing a tyre that’s not fit-for-purpose increases the risk of damage, puncture and, quite simply, a loss of traction, so it’s important to attach appropriate rubber to each corner of your 4×4 – in fact, it should be one of your first aftermarket purchases as soon as your shiny new 4×4 departs the showroom floor.
“Good off-road tyres for your 4×4 are essential, and ensuring they are fit for purpose for your driving adventure is the key,” said Dean McCormack, product portfolio specialist at Goodyear and Dunlop Tyres.
Simply put, 4×4 tyres can be broken down into categories – Mud Terrain (M/T), All Terrain (A/T) and Highway Terrain (H/T), and there’s also Light Truck (L/T) construction – each with its own strengths and compromises, depending on the kind of off-roading you have in mind.
So before you venture down to your local tyre centre to swipe the credit card for a brand-spanking set of new rubber, it’s important to establish what your intended purpose is and what type of tyre suits that purpose. Once that’s settled, you’ll be able to find a tyre that will suit the kind of exploration you have in mind.
Jeff Moorhead, project manager at Maxxis Tyres, explained to us that there are three essential questions someone must ask themselves before they contact a tyre retailer: “How often do I realistically go off the bitumen? What is the duration of the trip ‘off the road’? And how severe are the conditions I will encounter when I do go off-road?”
For example, a tyre with a wider block design with angled centre tread blocks is recommended for dry, sandy conditions; while wider grooves with self-cleaning shoulders and a more aggressive tread pattern will suit those in wetter climates.
“Hopefully after the owner has honestly considered the real use of the vehicle, the tyre selection gets a bit easier,” Moorhead added.
Let’s take a closer look at the types of off-road rubber on the market.
HIGHWAY-TERRAIN TYRES
HIGHWAY tyres typically have tread patterns similar to those on passenger cars, and they prefer bitumen to dirt and are developed more with a bias toward on-road comfort and ride quality – you’ll find them on most showroom-stock 4x4s. They are capable of occasional (light) off-road work (they’re not too bad on firm sand), but you’ll need to look elsewhere if you intend on tackling more serious tracks.
H/T tyres will have less space between the tread blocks, more siping to improve traction, and a reinforcing overlay between the steel belts to improve ride comfort. It’s all about low noise and improved wear life and ride comfort. They won’t, however, provide the levels of puncture resistance and traction afforded by A/T and M/T tyres.
“HT tyres have good on-road handling, steering response, wet handling, braking, low noise generation and reasonable ride quality,” said Jeff Moorhead. “But they still offer some level of gravel road handling … (they’re) probably more aimed at high-speed, ‘formed’ gravel roads.”
In saying that, there is a place for the H/T tyre for a certain type of four-wheeler, as Remy Abonneau, product marketing and account manager at Continental Tyres Australia, explained: “I would advise any driver who spends the majority of their time on-road but enjoys an occasional off-road adventure to invest in a good set of highway tyres with off-road capability … usually called a 70 per cent on-road and 30 per cent off-road.
“These tyres ensure excellent wet and dry braking performance, high on-road safety and grip, and a comfortable and quiet ride when on the city streets and highways, but still provide enough grip to go on a soft dirt road,” he added.
ALL-TERRAIN TYRES
IF you’re looking for an all-rounder that offers the best balance for on- and off-road driving, then look no further than the All-Terrain. They’re often stronger in their construction than a Highway Terrain – they’ll deal better with rocks and ruts – and they also have a more open tread pattern.
They mightn’t be as quiet or comfortable as a H/T tyre, or as rugged and durable as a muddie, but they dabble a bit in column A and a bit more in column B. A quality A/T offers excellent capabilities for both outback trips and rock-crawling jaunts, and they’ll still have enough chops to keep things comfortable on tarmac.
To maintain this balance between on- and off-road capabilities, an A/T should feature a deep, balanced tread pattern to deliver acceptable levels of safety and grip on a much wider array of surfaces. Something that is difficult to achieve, as Jeff Moorhead explained.
“Tyres designed for use off-road need thicker construction, deeper tread depth and wider channels in the tread to deal with the cuts, impacts, dirt, mud, stones and general rigors of off-road driving,” said Jeff Moorhead. “This thicker construction is not ideal for some on-road and general handling type properties.
“Thicker construction increases rolling resistance and reduces fuel economy, generally causes a harsher ride, and possibly reduced wet on-road performance. The deeper tread depth will negatively affect the way a tyre stops and turns because all of that tread rubber has a tendency to bend or fold under high stress. And there is an increase in unsprung weight,” Moorhead added.
MUD-TERRAIN TYRES
YOU’LL hear a muddie coming down the road before you see it, with an obvious compromise for increased bushability being its excessive on-road noise caused by its deep, blocky tread pattern and strong construction.
They’re designed to find grip when all hope seems lost, achieved by the implementation of clever design techniques. The open tread pattern, for example, is designed to dig for traction in loose surfaces while at the same time self-clean while the tyres rotate. The tyre’s heavy-duty construction and additional sidewall protection also prevents punctures, especially when a tyre’s exposure to potential piercing is increased by lowering tyre pressures.
In addition to unsettling NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness) levels, a muddie also feels harsh to drive day-to-day, with the drone of fat rubber becoming onerous over time. Ideally, if budget permits, have a set of muddies stored in the shed for the weekend away.
Despite the increased noise and vibration levels and sub-par on-road performance, Jeff Moorhead said that M/T tyres are improving in that area.
“Our Maxxis Razr MT is reasonably quiet for an M/T and retains good on-road performance,” he said. “M/T tyre construction is not so different to A/T construction – just more extreme. Thicker construction of the tyre carcass, deeper tread depth and wider channels in the tread design all for the same reasons as for A/T tyres, but with more of a skew towards off and harsh off-road use. And, again, these increases in thickness that help in off-road conditions have the same effects on on-road performance, but to a larger extent.”
LIGHT TRUCK AND PASSENGER CONSTRUCTION
AN L/T designation stamped on the side of a tyre means it’s a Light Truck tyre built stronger to both carry more load and be more durable. L/T tyres have a more aggressive tread pattern, provide increased sidewall protection, improve traction, and are more cut-and-chip resistant than Passenger tyres.
“A Light Truck construction tyre will generally be a bit more robust, have more ply layers in the sidewall and are known to be more resistant to punctures,” said Dean McCormack. “However due to recent advancements in tyre technologies, this is now less of a concern to require LT construction tyres.”
With 4x4s continuing to become bigger and heavier from the showroom floor, and most of us loading a 4×4 with a smorgasbord of aftermarket equipment – bar work, fridges, tents, etc. – it’s also more appropriate than ever to opt for an L/T tyre to cope with the extra heft.
“Buying a tyre that is of Light Truck construction ensures you have the best possible protection off-road. They will handle heavier weights especially for towing, and you can also run lower pressures in off-road conditions,” said Jeff Newick, National Technical Manager at Exclusive Tyres.
Still, there is a place for the Passenger tyre, recommended for those who travel light and aren’t prone to serious bush-bashing or remote-area travel. Despite the lower load ratings and limited puncture protection, the tyres are lighter, more flexible and provide better ride quality and fuel economy. They also bag-out better, perfect for that sand excursion.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
IF it’s your first foray into the world of off-road tyres, the number of options and variations can seem overwhelming. However, there’s a simple trick to make the process a bit easier. When comparing tyres, remember the TCC: Tread Design, Carcass Construction and Compound, as it’s across these three areas where tyres will differ.
“The biggest compromise between tyre brands and patterns is tread design, carcass construction and compounding. You need to research and ensure all these match what you want to do and where you want to go,” said Jeff Newick.
For improved traction and further protection, important features of modern tread designs to look for when browsing for new tyres include flex grooves, mud scoops, release dimples and raised rubber ribs. There are also clever innovations, such as Micro Gauge Sipes, which are simply tiny cuts in tyres designed to suck water up and release on highways to prevent aquaplaning. Brands that don’t use Micro Gauge Sipes tend to cut and chip more as they provide a leading edge to ‘rip’ on rocks and stone.
In regards to tyre carcass, consider the tyre’s tensile strength and whether it’s equipped with ‘angle ply’ technology. Also look at the construction of a tyre’s sidewall – whether it has sidewall biters and extra protection against obstacles (especially when aired down).
When asked what tyres to recommend for different driving conditions, Remy Abonneau said there are plenty of things to keep in mind.
“Driving purely on highway, I advise to keep your highway tyre to ensure a high level of comfort and best handling/braking performances in all conditions,” he said.
“If most of your drive is on the highway but from time-to-time you hit soft dirt road or gravel road, the best choice is to go for 70 per cent on-road / 30 per cent off-road.
“Then if you start to hit the toughest off-road tracks weekend after weekend, you will be better off going for an all-terrain, which will have a good durability and the toughest design.
“If your adventure takes you through mud, dirt or rock, go for some mud-terrains … tougher sidewall, heavier construction and aggressive block pattern design.”
And what about those owners who prefer the look of an aggressive tyre? “It’s always crucial to understand the compromise and what type of driving you will do,” Remy added.
SPEND SMART
“THE last thing you want when you are touring or off-roading (maybe a few hours from phone service) is for something to go wrong,” warns Dean McCormack. “While it seems like a bargain at the time, in the long run, it might end up costing you dearly.”
So when it comes to something as important as tyres, always buy a trusted brand from a reputable tyre dealer as an off-road tyre – something that could make or break your next 4×4 trip – is definitely not something you want to skimp on.
“The tyre market is full of many brands these days,” added Jeff Moorhead. “Not all tyres are created equal, there are significant differences in tyre performance. Research and development is what costs money, that’s where the bottom end of the market makes its saving.”
Not only will a reputable dealer be able to recommend a tyre that’ll suit your lifestyle, they’ll be there when it comes to after-sales support and service.
Saving a penny by opting for a low-cost online option also comes with a basket-full of headaches you’ll probably encounter down the track: lack of warranty; no guarantee of tyre age (tyres can sometimes sit in a warehouse for up to five years); tyres not built to cope with Australian conditions; and, of course, after-sales support.
“Tyre manufacturers like Goodyear spend tens-of-thousands of hours testing and assessing the different components of its tyres,” said Dean McCormack. “We have a dedicated engineering team located here in Australia who constantly perform testing to ensure the suitability of our tyres.” A good question to ask yourself before you click to purchase is ‘why is it so cheap?’
“There is always a reason,” said Jeff Newick. “The product could be old stock, discontinued lines and also parallel imports which do not carry warranty from genuine distributors. Most times when problems arise it is very difficult to get a claim.”
WHEN TO CHANGE TYRES
KNOWING when to hoist up your rig and change the tyres is just as important as getting the correct ones for your intended purpose.
A good sign that you’re due for a new 4×4 tyre is when the old one has worn down to the treadwear indicators (around 2mm remaining is a good time to start thinking about replacement), or they start to chip, crack or sustain any irreparable damage. Also keep an eye on the tyre’s block edges. Tyres should also be inspected regularly by your local tyre store after they get to five years of age.
“Modern day 4WD tyres will easily achieve 50,000 to 80,000km, but always be prepared to change them out prior to any big trip,” Jeff Newick said. “For example, I would not suggest heading off across the Simpson with tyres that are 50 per cent or more worn.”
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
A WHEEL alignment is recommended every six to 12 months, or every 10,000km. However, if your vehicle starts pulling to either side, get it looked at straight away. Another way to know if a wheel alignment is imminent is to see if the tread blocks have any raised edges developing – a good start is to simply run your hand across the tread face and feel for irregularities.
“I would recommend to get your alignment checked every six months, it only takes a pothole or a heavy hit off-road to knock it out of whack. You should also get into the habit of physically looking at your tyres each time the vehicle is washed. It is very easy to pick up any dramas quickly before too much damage is done,” said Jeff Newick.
AIR DOWN
THE optimal pressure for a tyre can broadly be categorised, but it really comes down to experience with your vehicle and its tyres. What may seem too high for someone, may be just right for someone else.
A loose rule, however, is to go between 18 to 24psi for firm sand, and down to 14/15 to 20psi for very soft sand, mud or rocky roads. You can drop the pressure further to increase a tyre’s footprint, but always keep speed to below 40km/h when aired down that low.
“When you are off-roading, you are constantly looking for traction. Keeping your tyres at an optimal pressure will allow you to balloon your tyres to gain the best traction,” says Dean McCormack.
“Always remember to reinflate before the cruising speed comes up,” Jeff Moorhead added. “If you don’t reinflate and run on the highway at high speed with low pressures you can and will destroy all four tyres, which is both dangerous, as they could blow out and cause an accident, and/or costly. From experience, you don’t have to go far to destroy tyres! Please remember to re-inflate.
“It’s important not to over inflate tyres – the tyre needs to be allowed to ‘deflect’ as it rolls over objects on the road. Over inflation makes the tyre much more rigid,” he said.
TYRES EXPLAINED
TYRES comes in all widths, sizes, and limits to fulfil any specific range of functions a user needs. The details of which are written out in numerical designations on your tyre sidewalls, which can be confusing. Here are what those numbers mean.
265/65R17 100T 265 = section width (in millimetres) 65 = sidewall aspect ratio (as a percentage of width) R = tyre construction (in this case, radial) 17 = rim diameter (in inches) 100 = load rating (in this case, 800kg) T = speed rating (see below, in this case, 190km/h)
SPEED AND LOAD RATINGS
Tyres are assigned a specific speed rating advising the maximum permitted speed of said tyre. For example, a 265/65R17 100T tyre has a speed rating of 190km/h. For safety reasons, it’s recommended to never exceed the max speed rating. And always double-check ratings when purchasing tyres, especially online, as they could invalidate your insurance.
| Speed Rating | u00a0Max Speed |
| N | 140km/h |
| P | 150km/h |
| Q | 160km/h |
| R | 170km/h |
| S | 180km/h |
| T | 190km/h |
| U | 200km/h |
| H | 210km/h |
| V | 240km/h |
Tyres are also assigned load ratings, which designates how much weight a tyre is designed to carry when operating at its maximum speed rating and inflated to maximum pressure, as the tyre’s load carrying capacity will decrease with reductions in pressure. For example, a 265/65R17 100T has a load rating of 100, which translates to a maximum permissible load of 800kg. Remember, it’s illegal to install tyres with a lower load index than the vehicle manufacturer’s original tyre.
| Index Number | u00a0Max permissable load |
| 60 | 250kg |
| 70 | 335kg |
| 80 | 450kg |
| 90 | 600kg |
| 100 | 800kg |
| 110 | 1060kg |
| 120 | 1400kg |
| 130 | 1900kg |
“All tyres come with a load-rating index and a speed-rating index,” said 4X4 Australia’s Fraser Stronach. “What’s important here is that the load rating has to be matched or bettered when replacing an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) tyre while the speed rating can be lower than the OEM tyre. Laws regarding fitting replacement tyres with a lower speed rating vary state by state.
“Although it may seem counter intuitive, tyres with higher speed ratings have thinner sidewalls, which help limit heat build-up when high speeds are maintained over long periods of time. Unfortunately, thin sidewalls are also more prone to being torn open by anything sharp. As a general rule, anything from a H-rated tyre up won’t survive long off-road. Speed ratings down to ‘N’ are generally permissible when replacing the OEM tyres.”
ADVICE FROM A TYRE DEALER
OUR local tyre store is Competition Tyres & More at Murrumbeena, Victoria, and the team there has fitted rubber to a few of our projects in the past. The store also fits 4×4 accessories, so they get a lot of 4×4 traffic though there and specialise in 4×4 tyres.
We asked store manager Borey Ouk what he asks customers, to help them chose the right 4×4 rubber. “When a customer comes in and says he wants 4×4 tyres for his vehicle, I start with the make and model, and whether the vehicle has been raised,” Borey told us. “This will determine the biggest size we can legally put on, and then I ask what type of driving they will do and what percentage off- and on-road, as noise plays a big factor for many customers.
“Customers generally will have a brand preference and ask for any feedback we’ve had, or of customers I know who ran that particular tyre.
“Some customers want the biggest, most aggressive-looking tyres regardless of their intended use. However with vehicle restraints and what can fit, I try and point the customer in the right direction as we like to keep it legal for the safety of the owner and others as well as insurance purposes.
“(Most customers prioritise) construction, speed and load, as well as ply rating if using for mainly off-road. (Also) price, and we try and find a budget to suit all customers’ needs.”
GIVEN how much most of us spend on modifications and accessories to ensure our 4×4 rig is set up just right for our needs, getting the right insurance cover isn’t as simple as a regular car.
The challenge lies in how individual and customised each setup becomes, so that the outcome you want is an appropriate level of insurance cover against the unexpected, whether that be a minor bingle or having your pride and joy stolen or written off.
GETTING THE SUM INSURED RIGHT
THERE are two key things that should factor into your sum insured as a 4WDer: the value of the vehicle itself, and the value of the modifications and accessories. Ideally, the sum insured you choose should reflect the sum of both of these individual items if you want to be confident that you’ve got your sum insured right.
As far as the vehicle goes, there are a range of ways you can get a feel for the value, ranging from Glass’s Guide to Red Book, or even browsing websites like WhichCar.
Modifications and accessories can be a bit more difficult to value. One method is to consider the full replacement value of the items when new. At the other end of the spectrum, you could apply depreciation to get to what the item might be worth now (e.g. a set of driving lights cost you $800 three years ago, but are now $560 given they are three years old). Each method has its own implications outlined below.
Calculating the full replacement value is as easy as working out what you paid for each item. The benefit of this method is that if your vehicle is written off or stolen you could end up with a payout that is much closer to the cost of replacing everything. The downside is that you’ll pay a bit more for your insurance each year, but that is the trade-off for peace of mind.
APPLYING DEPRECIATION TO MODS AND ACCESSORIES
IF you choose this method, you’d be applying a depreciation of some kind (maybe split equally over 10 years?) to reflect the value today.
The upside of this is that your premium is likely to be lower because your total sum insured is lower. In the event of a claimable incident where the insurer chooses to repair the vehicle, generally the part will be replaced with a new one (although how this is handled depends on your insurer and their claims philosophy).
On the flipside, if the vehicle is deemed a write-off or stolen, with a lower sum insured, you may not be able to fully replicate your vehicle and all its accessories.
WHAT METHOD TO USE?
THIS is a personal decision – for some people with older vehicles in particular, they are prepared to wear more of the risk in return for a lower premium.
Others, sometimes with newer vehicles, are after the certainty that they can fully replace their vehicle like for like. The key is that you understand this dynamic and make the choice that works for you.
HOW DOES THIS APPLY TO MY INSURER?
THIS is a tricky question because, believe it or not, not all insurance products are the same. The key is to get to a place where you feel your total sum insured is fair and reflective of your vehicle. I’d recommend you do the following:
1.Work out the Sum Insured you think is fair for your vehicle considering the mods and accessories you have. Remember to consider whether you prefer a replacement or depreciated amount for the mods/accessories.
2. Speak to your insurer about that value. Find out whether: a. They’ll cover you to that amount, or what value they are willing to give you and why (some will; some won’t want to cover mods/accessories; and some will have limits). b. How they’ll treat replacing your mods/accessories in: i. A repairable accident (are you likely to get new, or do they specify secondhand parts?) ii. A total loss scenario.
To clarify, at Club 4X4 we are open to covering your mods/accessories for replacement value, or at a depreciated value depending on your preference. As always, if you are unsure about anything, make sure you ask! Better to know now rather than get a surprise at claim time …
THE Ford Bronco might be one of the classic American 4×4 vehicles, but there was a time in its 55-year history when they were made and sold in Australia.
Well, they were assembled here, at least, in Ford’s local factory between the years 1981 to ’87. But with a selling price of around $15,000 the Bronco was priced like a Range Rover in Australia, so it was never a huge success while the four-wheel drives from Datsun and Toyota were prominent.
Graham Cottam remembers the Aussie Broncos well and sought out a tidy example when he was looking for a 4WD in recent times.
“I always liked this model back in the ’80s,” recalls Graham. “The Bronco has a good reputation as a vehicle that can go anywhere.”
Graham found this 1983 Bronco XLT with a surprisingly low 60,000km on the clock and in very good condition.
“It had been resprayed and had a very clean chassis,” he says. “Someone had spent a lot of money on it before I bought it.”
CLEVELAND V8
DESPITE its good looks, the Bronco still needed some freshening up to get it to what you see here. The Australian Broncos were fitted with Australian-made engines, either the in-line six-cylinder or the 351 Cleveland V8. This one has the V8 and it was rebuilt by Lakeside Automotive in Melbourne.
Bored .30-through and fitted with new pistons, a Crow camshaft package, fresh 2V heads and a Holley four-barrel carb, the ‘Clevo’ now makes around 350 horsepower to motivate the vintage Ford like never before. The transmission is a GM TH700 four-speed that was fitted by a previous owner, and the part-time 4×4 system remains the original Ford/Borg Warner setup. Front and rear locking diffs were fitted by a previous owner.
While the Bronco might have been popular in the USA where it maintains a strong aftermarket support base, its appeal and lifespan here in Australia were limited, so getting the right parts for one locally is a bit more of a challenge.
“I considered importing gear from the USA,” says Graham, “but shipping costs proved prohibitive and then COVID came along and threw shipping into chaos. Fortunately I found Tom and Jay at All 4 Fabrications and I couldn’t be happier with their work.”
Tom and Jay took the typical Aussie approach of, if you can’t readily access something for a build just make it yourself, and they set about fabbing up custom bar work and accessories for the Bronco. “Pretty much everything on it is custom made,” Tom told us of the build.
Starting at the front, the original bumper was modified to accept a winch cradle, and light and aerial mounts. These are now home to a Warn winch, Bushranger Nighthawk LED lights and a GME antenna.
All 4 Fab custom rock sliders run down the flanks of the Ford to protect the sills from off-road damage, while the rear bumper was strengthened and modified to accept a spare wheel carrier and swing-out jerry-can holder.
All the custom bar work has been powdercoated for protection against the elements with Abraze Away blasting, cleaning up the products before Jager Coatings applied the powder.
The four-inch snorkel exiting through the front ’guard is also the work of All 4 Fab, and the boys also whipped up the custom airbox with a pod-style filter and adaptors to the Holley carb.
The custom work didn’t end there, though, with the boys fabricating the roof rack and a storage system for the rear of the cabin. The rack carries the James Baroud rooftop tent and it is, in turn, supported by a custom roll cage in the rear of the vehicle that mates up under the roof.
Also in the rear is a roller-drawer setup that houses the second battery controlled by a REDARC unit among other travel essentials, with an MSA drop slide and 65-litre Waeco fridge on top. A custom switch panel provides control of the LED internal and external work lights.
OFF-ROAD EQUIPMENT
BRONCOS might have been considered good off-road vehicles by American standards, but they never really clicked for the local version of outback touring we do here. Graham has improved his rig’s ability to take on rough tracks by fitting 35-inch Trail Grapplers on 18-inch wheels.
The third-gen Broncos of the ’80s had a unique front suspension that Ford called a Twin Traction Beam (TTB) design. While previous generations simply had a coil-sprung live axle, the TTB was independent but tried to keep the axle travel of a live setup by splitting the axle in two long sections that pivot at the outside ends; the axle supporting the right-hand side wheel pivoting on the left-hand side of the chassis and the left wheel axle on the right.
The axle leading to the right-side wheel also housed the Dana 44 differential, while a uni-joint in the left side axle allowed it to travel independent of the right. That’s the gist of the TTB idea, but it worked well and is still used by many vehicles in off-road racing today.
This relatively unique design didn’t pose too many problems when it came to upgrading the suspension on Graham’s Bronco. The two-inch-taller coils at the front are controlled by EFS Elite Series shocks, while another pair of EFS shocks are at the back working with reset leaf springs. Carrolls Springs also added an extra leaf when resetting them to help carry heavier loads over rough country.
While the updated suspension certainly improved the ride quality of the Bronco, it is still a relatively short wheelbase vehicle so the Broncos are known to buck a bit. Graham rides comfortable, though, in a pair of leather seats adapted from the local FPV Pursuit Falcon. An Alpine sound system and GME UHF radio add a bit of modernity to the retro rig.
While the Bronco might not be everyone’s cup of mud, we expect interest in these older models to increase as they become classics and the forthcoming 2021 model revives the nameplate. Graham has created a great example of the breed for himself and it’s one that should be capable of taking him wherever he wants.
“Driving the Bronco around relaxes me,” he told us. “Maybe I’ll tow a caravan around Australia with it when I retire.”
FOLLOWING the revelation of the updated 2020 Toyota Hilux, Aussie company ARB has released a range of aftermarket products to improve the Hilux’s off-road potential.
Key to the range of new products is the company’s matte black powdercoated Summit bull bar, which has been upgraded to match the Hilux’s new front end.
ARB says the Summit bull bar, “is engineered and designed not only to complement the vehicle’s overall appearance but also to work with the vehicle’s safety features such as Toyota Safety Sense, airbag deployment and parking sensors.”
The Summit comes fitted with two welded aerial brackets and provisions to fit a wide range of winches; plus the fitment of ARB, Bushranger and IPF driving lights.
In addition, the ARB Commercial bull bar has been redesigned to cater for the changes to the new Hilux’s sensor placement; while ARB boffins are currently working on redeveloping the Summit and Summit Raw rear step tow bar to suit the new model.
ARB has also released an Old Man Emu GVM upgrade kit for the 2020 Hilux, which runs Nitrocharger or BP-51 internal bypass shocks and springs. This lifts the GVM from 3150kg to 3180kg (stage one) or 3465 (stage two). The stage two kit also gets a front axle upgrade.
In a statement, ARB listed the range of products currently available for the new Hilux, which includes Summit side steps and side rails; all ARB canopies; Sportlid; Tailgate Assist; Ute Liner; Sportguard; Air Lockers; Recovery Points; UVP; Outback Solutions drawers; Frontier tank; Hayman Reese tow bars; Safari snorkels; and Old Man Emu suspension.
Website: www.arb.com.au
IN LINE with the updates to the Toyota Hilux range which went on sale at the start of September, the brand’s locally developed halo models, the Rogue and Rugged X, have now also benefitted from these performance and equipment upgrades.
The power and torque of the 1GD 2.8-litre diesel engine has been upgraded across the Toyota 4×4 range and now makes 150kW and 500Nm, to better compete with its rivals in the competitive 4×4 ute segment. This is up from 130kW and 450Nm and enables a 300kg increase in towing capacity (to 3500kg) when equipped with the six-speed automatic transmission.
The engine upgrades are complemented by revisions to the Hilux’s suspension, to improve the ride quality of the vehicle when unladen while not sacrificing the model’s load-hauling capabilities.
The Rugged X and Rogue models also get the updated interior with improved functionality and bigger-screen media unit, plus the fresh front-end with its wide-mouth grille.
The shape of the new grille opened up an opportunity for Toyota Australia’s designers to give its restyled models a tweak. The new grille and related components were fully engineered and designed in-house in Australia, including extensive local testing to ensure cooling performance.
The durability of the Rugged X grille and surrounds was confirmed through millions of cycles of shaking in the local company’s vibration chamber. The stress-testing also included exposure to temperatures from -30 to 80 degrees.
An important factor in the grille redesign was the need to reposition the Toyota emblem and Toyota Safety Sense radar positioned behind it, as well as minor adjustments to the steel bumper bar and other components.
Local testing confirmed that the calibration for this vital safety sensor – which works in tandem with a monocular camera mounted at the top of the windscreen – meets the global standards set by Toyota.
The Rugged X is also equipped with other locally designed and engineered features for enhanced protection, functionality and recovery capability for serious off-roading. As well as the steel bar with its inbuilt LED lightbar, there are rock rails down the sides, a steel rear bar with step, uprated springs to accommodate the extra weight of the protective barwork, and an intake snorkel.
All of these components are factory-backed by Toyota and covered under the new vehicle warranty. The Rugged model has been discontinued, as has the option of a manual gearbox in either the Rogue or Rugged X.
PRICING
2021 Hilux Rogue: $68,990 2021 Hilux Rugged X: $69,990
New 4×4 products: A closer look at the MaxTrax Indeflate and an Ironman 4×4 rear protecton tow bar for the VW Amarok.
[COPY] We take a closer look at two products you can add to your 4×4 repertoire.
MAXTRAX INDEFLATE
THE MAXTRAX Indeflate allows you to easily inflate and deflate tyres – two at a time, mind you – without torturing your knees while squatting. The Indeflate has a built-in pressure gauge to quickly and easily monitor deflation, and it comes with two 3m-long hoses to easily reach all tyres. A great little bit of kit that’ll make your next outback expedition that little bit easier. Website: www.maxtrax.com.au RRP: $215
IRONMAN 4X4 REAR PROTECTION TOW BAR
IRONMAN 4×4’s new rear protection tow bar for the Volkswagen Amarok (MY2011+) not only provides vastly superior protection, but comes with an integrated tow hitch, high-lift jack points, rear tow points and provisions for rear parking sensors, a trailer plug, an Anderson plug and recessed number plate lights. The bar is made from 4mm steel and is coupled with 50mm side tubing, giving it extra strength. The bar comes complete with a 50mm tow ball, tongue and pull pin, as well as a two-year warranty. Website: www.ironman4x4.com
Tyre pressure should be something on the minds of every motorist, but as four-wheel drivers we’re more affected by them than most.
Traversing a variety of terrain and carrying different – often heavy – loads means maintaining the right air pressure in your tyres is never more important.
Two essential pieces of kit for anyone who regularly drives their car off the blacktop include a quality tyre-pressure gauge and a 12-volt compressor for inflating tyres.
12-volt-powered air compressors come in a wide range of designs and prices and, as always, a good quality unit will serve you well over a long period. Cheap is not always cheerful, nor is the most expensive unit always better than a mid-range unit.
Sherpa Winches is best known for its recovery winches and we’ve had good experience with them in the past. So when Sherpa released its Big Air air compressor, advertising some impressive figures, we wanted to have a closer look.
The Big Air is big in more than just name. It’s a big unit measuring in at 383 x 140 x 275m (LxWxH) and it’s a hefty 13.5kg, so you’ll want to ensure you have somewhere secure to mount or carry it in your 4×4. Much of that size and weight come from the compressor motor, which looks for all money like it just came off a Sherpa winch. This is a big mother and the heavy-duty power cables and alligator clamps to feed it are indicative of its power draw.
The Big Air will deliver 8.9cfm at 40psi and keep going strong through to 80psi, where the cut-off air-pressure switch limits it on the included air tank. Couple this with a 100 per cent duty cycle (at 90psi) and you’ll find that this monster pumps strong and hard.
For a quick test we dropped a 265/75-16 all terrain down to 10psi and fired up the Big Air. After 30 seconds the tyre was up to 20psi and hit 30psi on the minute. That seemed fast to us so we dragged out the old compressor that has been in our kit for years and still serves us well. The same 10 to 30psi inflation took four minutes with this unit.
For both tests the unit was connected to the main battery in the LandCruiser with the engine idling. Drawing up to 100amps, you can see why the Big Air has those HD cables and is able to punch out the heavy work.
That’s the sort of performance that will save you around 15 minutes each and every time you come off the beach. The Big Air would work well in an onboard air-system with multiple outlets coming from a tank, a Clearview Tyre Spider or even the Maxtrax Indeflate that allows you to service two tyres at a time. The inbuilt pressure switch means the Big Air is ready to hook up to a bigger tank and on-board system.
The Big Air comes with the heavy-duty power cable, a Carling-type power switch, 6.5m of air line, tyre-inflation chuck and an air nozzle which will come in handy to blow off sand after a day on the beach. It also has a 12-month warranty, and is available in both 12- and 24-volt versions.
AVAILABLE FROM: www.sherpa4x4.com.au RRP: $599 WE SAY: High-output heavy duty compressor for all your 4×4 needs.