Four-wheel driving can put a vehicle through plenty, from rocky tracks and deep sand to corrugations and water crossings.

If something breaks or gets damaged along the way, you might expect your insurance to cover the cost. But not every problem is covered, and the difference can leave you with a hefty repair bill. Mechanical failures, wear and tear, certain modifications and illegal use can all affect an insurance claim. Exclusions vary between insurers and policies, so it’s worth understanding what your cover includes before loading up for your next trip.

Wear and tear isn’t covered like accidental damage

Suspension components, wheel bearings, bushes and driveline parts all take a beating on rough tracks. Over time, that use can lead to worn components, rust or other gradual deterioration.

Comprehensive vehicle insurance generally isn’t designed to pay for parts that wear out through normal use. Wear and tear, corrosion and gradual deterioration are common exclusions.

The distinction is between gradual deterioration and damage from an insured event. A component wearing out over thousands of kilometres is different from damage caused by an accident on the track. The circumstances and policy wording determine whether a claim is covered.

Mechanical breakdowns and maintenance issues

A mechanical failure can derail a touring trip, especially when you’re a long way from the nearest workshop. But comprehensive vehicle insurance isn’t the same as mechanical breakdown cover.

Engine, transmission, electrical and other component failures are commonly excluded. Damage caused by poor maintenance, faulty repairs or defective parts may also fall outside cover, depending on the policy and circumstances. That doesn’t mean every incident involving a mechanical component is automatically excluded. Damage caused by a separate insured event may be treated differently from a component that simply fails. The cause of the damage matters.

Regular servicing and pre-trip inspections can help identify problems before they become bigger issues. Check for leaks, worn suspension components, damaged hoses and loose fittings before heading into remote country.

Undeclared or illegal 4×4 modifications

Modifications are a big part of four-wheel driving, whether you’re fitting a suspension lift, upgrading the tyres, adding a bull bar or building a touring setup with a canopy, drawers and auxiliary power.

Make sure your insurer knows what you’ve fitted and how those changes are covered. Club 4X4 (↗), for example, offers modifications cover as a separate agreed value, allowing you to nominate a dollar amount for your upgrades rather than providing an itemised list of every modification. If you’ve invested thousands of dollars in upgrades, check that they’re included in your insured value rather than assuming they’re automatically covered.

Legality matters, too. Illegal modifications that make a vehicle unroadworthy or unlawful can affect a claim, particularly if they contributed to the incident. Requirements and policy conditions vary, so make sure your setup complies with the relevant rules and tell your insurer about significant changes.

Overloading your 4WD or towing beyond its limits

It’s easy to add weight to a touring vehicle without thinking too much about it. Bull bars, winches, roof racks, long-range fuel tanks, drawers, fridges, camping gear and passengers all contribute to the load.

Exceeding your vehicle’s weight limits can put extra strain on the suspension, tyres and chassis, while excessive towing loads can affect braking, stability and handling. Before a big trip, check your vehicle’s gross vehicle mass (GVM), gross combination mass (GCM), axle limits and towing limits. Remember that accessories, passengers, luggage and towball download all contribute to the overall load.

Overloading can also affect an insurance claim. Some policies exclude damage associated with carrying or towing more than the vehicle was designed for, particularly where the excess load contributed to the incident. Check your policy wording and keep your vehicle within its applicable limits.

Off-road driving and illegal use

Not all car insurance policies cover the same types of off-road driving. Some restrict where you can drive or exclude particular activities, so check the terms against the way you use your 4WD.

If you regularly drive on beaches, bush tracks or remote trails, make sure your policy covers those activities where driving is legally permitted. Don’t assume that comprehensive cover automatically extends to every off-road situation. Motorsport is another area to check. Racing, speed trials and competitive events may be excluded, even if the vehicle is otherwise insured for recreational use. Other policy conditions can apply to unregistered vehicles, unlicensed drivers or vehicles being used unlawfully.

If you’re planning to enter a competitive event or use your vehicle for something beyond ordinary touring and recreation, check with your insurer first.

Existing damage and faulty repairs

Insurance isn’t intended to pay for damage that was already there or to fix every problem discovered during a later repair.

If your vehicle has existing panel damage, structural problems or evidence of previous repair work, be clear about its condition when arranging cover. Existing damage and gradual deterioration can affect how a later claim is assessed. Faulty repairs, poor workmanship and defective parts may also be excluded. Some policies make exceptions in specific circumstances, so check the wording rather than assuming that damage linked to previous repairs will be covered.

If you’re having work done to your 4WD, use a reputable repairer and check whether any planned work could affect your cover.

How to check what your 4×4 insurance covers

Before heading away, read your Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) and Certificate of Insurance. Pay particular attention to exclusions, excesses, cover limits and any conditions that apply to your vehicle or how you use it.

Check that your insured value reflects your current setup, including any modifications and accessories you’ve added. It’s also worth confirming whether off-road recovery is covered, particularly if you travel in remote areas where a recovery can be expensive.

Keep your vehicle serviced, make sure modifications are legal and check your weights before loading up. These steps won’t prevent every problem, but they can help reduce the risk of an unexpected repair bill or a disputed claim. If you’re unsure whether a particular modification, activity or type of damage is covered, ask your insurer before you travel. Your PDS and policy documents are the best place to confirm the details.

Choosing 4×4 insurance with Club 4X4

Four-wheel drives often need different insurance considerations to everyday passenger cars, particularly when they’re modified for touring or regularly driven off-road.

Club 4X4 (↗) specialises in insurance for four-wheel drives, with options designed around the needs of owners who use their vehicles for touring, recreation and off-road adventures. If you’ve fitted a bull bar, suspension lift, canopy, drawers or other accessories, check how these are treated under your policy and whether their value is included in your cover. It’s also worth considering how you use your 4WD, from weekend trips on local tracks to extended journeys into remote country.

Recovery costs are another consideration when travelling off-road. Getting a vehicle out of soft sand or recovering it from a remote track can be expensive, so check whether recovery is included in your chosen cover and what conditions or limits apply.

Before choosing a policy, review the available options and read the relevant Product Disclosure Statement (PDS). You can find out more about Club 4X4 insurance (↗) and compare the cover available for your vehicle, modifications and touring needs.

Quickfire FAQs

Does 4×4 insurance cover mechanical breakdowns?

Generally, no. Mechanical, electrical and structural failures are commonly excluded, although the exact terms depend on your policy.

Are 4×4 modifications covered by insurance?

They may be, but check whether your insurer requires them to be declared and listed on your policy.

Can overloading affect an insurance claim?

Yes. Exceeding your vehicle’s designed load limits can affect cover, particularly where the excess load contributes to an accident.

Does comprehensive insurance cover off-road driving?

That depends on the policy. Check that your cover includes the tracks and activities you plan to tackle.

Does insurance cover wear and tear?

Generally, no. Gradual deterioration and components wearing out through normal use are different from accidental damage.

The Toyota HiLux has bounced back to reclaim the title of Australia’s best-selling 4×4, outselling the Ford Ranger in October after the Ford took the honours in September.

The HiLux recorded 5228 4×4 sales for the month, compared with 4556 for the Ranger. Add 4×2 sales and the HiLux was also Australia’s best-selling vehicle overall, with 5954 sales against 4841 for the Ranger.

The Toyota RAV4 was third overall with 4718 sales, followed by the BYD Sealion 7 (2524), Toyota Prado (2397), Chery Tiggo 4 Pro (2178), BYD Atto 2 (1943), BYD Shark 6 (1843), Geely EX5 (1789) and Ford Everest (1741). 

Toyota Australia Vice President Sales, Marketing and Franchise Operations John Pappas said increased vehicle supply was helping reduce wait times for customers.

“Since securing additional vehicle supply for Australia in recent months, we’re seeing the benefits flow directly to customers, with improved availability and shorter wait times across a range of key Toyota models,” Mr Pappas said. “This additional supply has supported a strong October result and positions us well for a particularly strong finish to 2026 as more customers take delivery of their vehicles.

“It is clear that Australians trust the performance, durability and reliability of HiLux, which was the best-selling vehicle in the country last month. Securing extra stock means we can deliver more vehicles to our valued customers, which helps showcase the true popularity of Toyota with Australian buyers.”

Toyota remained well ahead of the other manufacturers, recording 20,649 new-vehicle sales in October. BYD was second with 10,025, while Ford finished third on 7310. Toyota sales were up 4.7 per cent year-on-year, while BYD surged 153.2 per cent. Ford sales went the other way, slipping 3.4 per cent.

The year-to-date figures tell an even bigger story. BYD sales are up 106.9 per cent so far in 2026, while Toyota is down 13.9 per cent and Ford has fallen 12.8 per cent.

Ranger still leads the year-to-date 4×4 race

The Ranger still has the upper hand across the year, with 40,300 sales to the end of October. The HiLux is chasing on 37,466, with the Toyota Prado (18,062) and Ford Everest (17,944) some way back in third and fourth.

The BYD Shark is making a decent fist of its first full year in the rankings, sitting fifth on 15,429 sales. It is ahead of the Isuzu D-MAX (14,519), Mitsubishi Triton (12,716), Isuzu MU-X (11,379), Toyota LandCruiser 300 Series (11,017) and GWM Cannon/Cannon Alpha (8764).

Further down the ute charts, the Kia Tasman recorded 275 sales in October, with the Nissan Navara not much further ahead on 288. The Volkswagen Amarok managed 224, while the Mazda BT-50 did better with 668 sales, although it remains outside the top 10.

In the more affordable 4×4 ute ranks, the GWM Cannon and Cannon Alpha combined for 763 sales, comfortably ahead of the LDV T60 (500), Foton Tunland V7/V9 (134), KGM Musso (81), MG U9 (55) and JAC T9 (34). At the opposite end of the market, the Chevrolet Silverado and Silverado HD combined for 260 sales, ahead of the Ford F-150 (158), Ram 1500 (138) and Toyota Tundra (85).

The Toyota Prado continued to lead the 4×4 SUV market, with 2397 sales in October. The Ford Everest followed on 1741, while the Toyota LandCruiser 300 recorded 1230 sales. The Isuzu MU-X managed 823, ahead of the Nissan Patrol on 445.

The GWM Tank 300 and Tank 500 recorded 326 and 185 sales respectively. BYD’s Denza brand is also starting to find its feet, with the B5 recording 220 sales in October and 2092 for the year so far. The larger B8 added 128 sales for the month, taking its 2026 tally to 1453.

Ute sales remain under pressure

The light-commercial vehicle market is still doing it tough.

October sales totalled 21,469, down 2.6 per cent on the 22,053 recorded in October 2025. The bigger picture isn’t much brighter, with 205,797 LCVs sold so far this year compared with 230,763 at the same point in 2025, a drop of 10.8 per cent.

The PU/CC 4×4 segment was almost dead even with last October, recording 16,804 sales against 16,802. However, year-to-date sales are still down 12.3 per cent, with 157,214 4×4 utes sold compared with 179,259 over the same period last year.

Despite the softer commercial vehicle numbers, Australia’s overall new-vehicle market had a better month, recording 103,325 sales in October 2026. That’s up 3.8 per cent on the same month last year, although the mix of vehicles Australians are buying continues to change.

EV and PHEV sales continue to climb

Petrol and diesel sales continue to head in the opposite direction, with both fuel types recording sizable year-on-year declines as EV and PHEV sales surge.

Petrol sales fell 35.9 per cent compared with October 2025, dropping from 36,807 to 23,605. Diesel was also down, falling 14.7 per cent from 30,073 to 25,649. Meanwhile, battery-electric vehicle (BEV) sales jumped 228.7 per cent, from 6291 to 20,677. Plug-in hybrid (PHEV) sales weren’t far behind in terms of growth, climbing 148.6 per cent from 4724 to 11,745.

The year-to-date numbers paint a similar picture. Petrol sales are down 27.6 per cent in 2026, with diesel falling 16.3 per cent. BEV sales have surged 171.2 per cent, while PHEVs are up 126.7 per cent. Combined BEV and PHEV sales reached 32,422 in October. That’s now well ahead of either petrol or diesel individually, with the traditional fuel types recording 23,605 and 25,649 sales respectively.

“Consumers are making rational choices and are attracted to options that reduce their costs. Despite continuing pressure on household budgets and higher borrowing costs in 2026, the October result shows there is extraordinary resilience in new vehicle demand,” said Tony Weber, FCAI chief executive.

“This increase in new vehicle demand, especially BEVs, must be supported by reliable and accessible charging infrastructure that keeps pace with demand.”

BYD’s Denza N9 luxury SUV is set to gain an all-electric version, with Chinese regulatory filings revealing a tri-motor AWD system producing 890kW.

Chinese automotive publication CarNewsChina (↗) reported the model’s appearance in filings published by China’s Ministry of Industry and Information Technology (MIIT), detailing its powertrain, dimensions and weight.

The Denza N9 EV will use three electric motors, with a 270kW unit at the front and two 310kW motors at the rear. Combined output is 890kW (1194hp), with a listed top speed of 240km/h.

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The SUV measures 5270mm long, 2030mm wide and 1830mm tall, with a 3125mm wheelbase. Kerb weight is listed at either 3105kg or 3180kg, depending on specification, while gross vehicle weight is a hefty 3760kg. Five- and six-seat configurations are listed, along with a roof-mounted LiDAR sensor and optional 22-inch forged alloy wheels.

The electric N9 uses a lithium iron phosphate (LFP) battery supplied by BYD subsidiary FinDreams. Battery capacity, driving range and charging specifications have not yet been disclosed.

Will the BYD Denza N9 come to Australia?

An Australian arrival remains possible, but BYD has yet to confirm plans to bring the Denza N9 here.

The plug-in hybrid N9 has already appeared in Australian regulatory certification documents, while BYD’s ultra-luxury Yangwang U8 received Australian Design Rules (ADR) certification in October 2026. The 880kW, four-motor SUV’s approval covers the five-seat standard-wheelbase model, although certification does not guarantee a local launch.

The all-electric N9 is a separate development, and there is currently no indication it has been certified for Australia or earmarked for local release. BYD has made no announcement about local availability.

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FAQs

How much power does the BYD Denza N9 EV produce?

The Denza N9 EV has a reported combined output of 890kW from three electric motors.

Is the BYD Denza N9 fully electric?

The new version is fully electric, while the existing Denza N9 sold in China is a plug-in hybrid.

How heavy is the BYD Denza N9 EV?

Kerb weight is listed at 3105kg or 3180kg, depending on specification.

Will the BYD Denza N9 come to Australia?

BYD has yet to confirm Australian availability for either the electric or plug-in hybrid version.

Ford is preparing a new, more affordable midsize ute for international markets, with the potential to slot below the Ranger as a cheaper alternative in Australia.

The new pick-up was confirmed by Ford CEO Jim Farley during the company’s third-quarter earnings call, with a 2027 launch planned. The move is part of Ford’s push to attract new customers and compete with increasingly popular Chinese ute brands.

“Alongside strengthening our best franchises, we’re opening new paths to grow at more affordable price points next year. We’ll be launching our pickup for international markets.

“We expect the base material cost for this truck to be 20 per cent lower than today’s Ranger, just as the Maverick has done in the US. This truck is designed to bring new customers into the Ford truck line-up internationally at a cost structure that allows us to compete, in this case with China,” Farley said.

The lower production costs should give Ford scope to position the new model below the Ranger, although its eventual pricing and market positioning are yet to be revealed.

An Australian launch is far from certain. Ford Australia has yet to comment on whether the new ute will be offered locally, and there has been no confirmation of a right-hand drive version.

The pickup is a separate model from the Maverick sold in North America and the upcoming all-electric Fathom ute. It will add another model to Ford’s global ute line-up rather than replace the Ranger.

Ford has yet to reveal the new ute’s name, platform, powertrain or manufacturing location. But if it does make it to Australia as a more affordable alternative to the Ranger, would you consider one?

FAQs

When will the new Ford ute launch?

Ford plans to launch the new midsize ute in international markets in 2027.

Will the new Ford ute come to Australia?

An Australian launch has not been confirmed, but Ford’s international-market plans leave the door open.

Will it be cheaper than the Ranger?

Ford expects its base material costs to be 20 per cent lower than the current Ranger, suggesting it could be positioned as a more affordable alternative.

Is it the electric Ford Fathom?

No. The new midsize pickup is a separate model from the upcoming all-electric Fathom ute.

Will it be available in right-hand drive?

Ford has yet to confirm a right-hand drive version or an Australian export program.

BLUETTI (↗) has launched its Elite 100 mini portable power station (↗) in Australia, billed as its smallest and lightest 1kWh-class power station to date, weighing just 10.7kg.

The Elite 100 mini stores 1004.8Wh of energy and occupies around 45 per cent less volume than BLUETTI’s AC180 power station. Its slim, vertical design makes it easier to pack into the vehicle for a weekend exploring the Flinders Ranges or a longer trip deep into the outback.

It delivers 700W of continuous AC output, with a Power Lifting Mode allowing it to run compatible resistive appliances rated up to 1400W. There are eight output ports, including a 140W USB-C connection for charging compatible laptops.

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BLUETTI says the battery can charge a laptop up to 13 times, a smartphone more than 34 times or run a portable fridge for more than 34 hours, although actual performance will depend on the device and operating conditions.

The Elite 100 mini uses LiFePO4 battery cells rated for more than 6000 charge cycles to 80 per cent capacity. It also features an integrated LED light with warm, cool and SOS modes, which BLUETTI claims can operate continuously for up to 11 days.

For touring applications, the Elite 100 mini solar generator (↗) can be paired with BLUETTI’s Charger 1 DC-DC alternator charger (↗) for charging while driving. It also supports solar charging through compatible panels.

At home, UPS functionality allows the power station to switch to battery power within 10 milliseconds of a mains outage, keeping connected essentials such as routers and modems running.

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Australian pricing

The BLUETTI Elite 100 mini is available on the BLUETTI Store (↗), priced at $699 for the standalone unit (↗), with an introductory offer running until November 18. Buyers can also receive an extra six per cent off using promo code 4X4mini6 at checkout.

• Elite 100 mini standalone (↗): A$699
• Elite 100 mini + 100W solar panel (↗): A$999
• Elite 100 mini + 200W solar panel (↗): A$1199
• Elite 100 mini + Charger 1 (↗): A$999

BLUETTI Elite 100 mini features

• Battery capacity: 1004.8Wh
• Battery chemistry: LiFePO4
• Battery lifespan: More than 6000 charge cycles to 80 per cent capacity
• AC output: 700W continuous
• Power Lifting Mode: Up to 1400W for compatible resistive appliances
• Charging ports: Eight output ports
• USB-C output: Up to 140W
• Weight: 10.7kg
• Lighting: Integrated LED with warm, cool and SOS modes
• UPS switching: 10 milliseconds
• Charging options: Mains, solar and compatible DC-DC alternator charger

Quickfire FAQs

How much does the BLUETTI Elite 100 mini cost?

Australian pricing starts at $699 for the standalone unit, rising to $1199 for the 200W solar panel bundle.

How much battery capacity does it have?

It has 1004.8Wh of stored energy, placing it in the 1kWh power station category.

How much does it weigh?

The Elite 100 mini weighs 10.7kg.

What is its continuous power output?

It delivers 700W of continuous AC output, with Power Lifting Mode supporting compatible appliances up to 1400W.

Can the Elite 100 mini be charged while driving?

Yes. It can be paired with BLUETTI’s Charger 1 DC-DC alternator charger.

What type of battery does it use?

It uses LiFePO4 battery cells rated for more than 6000 charge cycles to 80 per cent capacity.

A suspension lift is a popular starting point for a new Toyota N90 HiLux, but choosing a kit by ride height alone can miss the bigger picture. The right setup needs to suit the vehicle’s weight, driving conditions and how its suspension will be used.

A daily-driven dual-cab doing occasional beach work has different needs from a heavily loaded tourer spending weeks crossing the country. Regular corrugations, rocky tracks, towing and carrying accessories all place different demands on suspension.

TJM’s XGS range (↗) offers different approaches to suspension performance, from the all-round Roamer to the adjustable Remote and the more specialised Rugged. For owners whose accessories and equipment push the vehicle’s carrying capacity, the XGS GVM Plus may also be worth considering.

These are starting points, not universal fitment recommendations. The right setup depends on vehicle compatibility, accessories, loaded weight and intended use. A GVM upgrade doesn’t override other vehicle or towing limits.

What each XGS option offers

XGS Roamer: The all-rounder

For a HiLux that spends most of its time on the road but regularly heads away for weekends or longer trips, XGS Roamer (↗) is worth considering.

Roamer uses nitrogen-charged twin-tube shock absorbers with an 18mm hard-chromed piston rod and 40mm piston bore. Its multi-stage, velocity-controlled valving is designed to respond to changing suspension speeds and terrain, balancing everyday ride comfort with the control needed for touring and weekend off-roading.

Spring selection is just as important as the shock absorbers. A HiLux carrying a bull bar, canopy, drawers and touring equipment needs springs matched to its actual load. Choosing a kit simply to achieve a particular lift can leave the vehicle riding poorly if the spring rates don’t suit the weight.

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XGS Rugged: for demanding terrain

Corrugations and rough tracks put repeated demands on shock absorbers. As the oil inside a shock heats up, damping performance can fade, reducing the control it provides over suspension movement.

XGS Rugged (↗) steps up to a monotube shock absorber with a 52mm piston bore. In this design, a floating piston separates the damping oil from pressurised nitrogen gas, while the oil’s contact with the cylinder wall helps dissipate heat. This construction is designed to manage demanding conditions and reduce shock fade during sustained corrugated-road driving.

Rugged also features adjustable front struts and multi-stage, velocity-controlled valving, designed to respond to changing suspension speeds and help maintain control when carrying heavier loads on and off the road.

For owners who regularly tackle rough tracks, corrugations and demanding touring routes, these features are worth considering alongside spring rates suited to the vehicle’s load. Correct setup and appropriate driving speeds remain essential, particularly over prolonged rough sections.

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XGS Remote: adjustable damping

XGS Remote (↗) builds on the Rugged’s 52mm piston bore and monotube design, adding a remote reservoir that doubles the shock absorber’s oil capacity. The additional oil volume helps manage heat and supports consistent damping during demanding use.

Remote also incorporates a hydraulic bump stop within the shock absorber. This provides progressively increasing resistance as the suspension approaches the end of its compression stroke, helping manage harder impacts and improve control when driving over bumps and corrugations with a load on board.

Its key point of difference is eight-stage adjustment of both compression and rebound damping. Compression adjustment changes how the shock responds as the suspension compresses, while rebound adjustment controls how quickly it extends again. Drivers can tune the response to suit different terrain and loads, rather than relying on one fixed setting.

That flexibility can be useful for a HiLux that shifts between daily driving, touring and heavier off-road work. However, damping adjustment isn’t a substitute for selecting the correct springs. The vehicle still needs to be set up for its regular load, and adjustments won’t compensate for exceeding weight limits or using unsuitable spring rates.

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XGS GVM Plus: for heavier loads

A suspension lift doesn’t automatically increase a vehicle’s legal carrying capacity. HiLux owners planning to add accessories, carry touring gear or tow a camper should calculate the finished vehicle’s weight and check whether the standard gross vehicle mass (GVM) will be sufficient.

TJM’s XGS GVM Plus range (↗) is designed to increase approved load-carrying capacity while maintaining ride quality on and off the road. Depending on the application, kits include the required suspension components, which can include leaf springs, X5K spring-steel coil springs, bushes and installation hardware. Any increase in GVM must be approved for the specific vehicle and application, and it doesn’t override other limits such as towing capacity or tyre ratings.

A GVM upgrade should be considered as part of the overall build, rather than an automatic addition to every lift. The right setup depends on the vehicle’s expected loaded weight and how it will be used.

Don’t overlook upper control arms

Lifting a HiLux can change front suspension geometry and make it harder to achieve the correct wheel alignment using factory adjustments alone. TJM’s XGS upper control arms (↗), designed and made in Australia using high-quality components, provide additional adjustment, with up to three degrees of extra caster and camber correction specified, depending on the application.

Developed using 3D computer-aided design, the arms retain a footprint similar to the original equipment components while revising the geometry and ball-joint positioning for lifted suspension setups. TJM also says the design provides additional wheel clearance and has been tested with a range of aftermarket wheels to help minimise the risk of contact.

Upper control arms aren’t required for every lift. Whether they’re needed depends on the vehicle, lift height and alignment results. A wheel alignment after installation is essential to confirm the suspension can be adjusted to the appropriate specifications.

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Choose for the HiLux you will actually drive

The best suspension upgrade isn’t necessarily the one that delivers the biggest lift or the most adjustment. It’s the one that suits the vehicle’s weight, terrain and intended use.

For everyday driving and general touring, XGS Roamer is an option to investigate. For sustained rough-road use, consider the benefits of a monotube design such as XGS Rugged where it’s available for your vehicle. If adjustable damping is a priority, XGS Remote offers more scope to tailor suspension response. And if accessories and equipment are pushing carrying capacity, discuss XGS GVM Plus before the build begins.

Tell your suspension specialist how the HiLux will be used, what accessories are planned and how much weight it will carry. That information is a better starting point than choosing a lift height first.

It’s no secret that off-road driving and remote travel are tough on a vehicle. Days of pounding corrugations, scrabbling for traction and fording deep water are enough to make most 4x4s cry for mercy.

This is why it’s so important for those of us who journey into the bush, particularly people who travel with only one or two rigs, to have the right tools and equipment on hand and a working knowledge of how to use them. Being able to effect strong and dependable trackside repairs can make all the difference between throwing in the towel and moving on with the adventure. Here is a short list of some of the more common repairs you will likely have to make at some stage.

1: How to plug a flat tyre when 4WD touring

Punctures happen, even with today’s high-quality rubber compounds. Gibber stones, tree roots and miscellaneous trail debris can all cause a flat. Being able to quickly plug the leak and get back on track is simply the price of entry for remote touring. Travelling without a tyre repair kit (which are extremely affordable) isn’t Sparta, it’s madness.

2: How to replace a CV joint on the track

Solid axle, IFS, it doesn’t matter. Play in low range enough and sooner or later you’re going to pop a CV. Being able to swap it out for the spare in your kit is an essential skill to have. The good news is it’s not that hard. The bad news is you’re going to get greasy. But hey, it’s all part of the fun and no good story starts with “the trip went super smoothly…”

Oh, and don’t forget the Loctite (↗) when throwing it all back together, eh? Having to re-tighten hub nuts or steering arm fasteners every few hundred km is nobody’s idea of relaxing.

3: Emergency gasket repairs in the bush

4x4s can leak under normal daily driving. Throw in a bunch of high-load driving, big revs, sinking mechanical components in muddy water and towing the boat or caravan over some inhospitable terrain, and it’s no wonder the odd leak springs up. Obviously, carrying an entire gasket catalogue for your vehicle is a bit extreme, but having a tube of quality RTV gasket sealant on hand is a no-brainer.

Diff pumpkin leaking? Get it flexed up so the oil drains to one side, whip the pumpkin out or cover off (depending on your diff type), seal it back up and you’re back on your way. Airbox letting in dust (2.8L Toyota owners, we’re looking in your direction)? A light smear of RTV on the sealing surface will get you home without incident.

Turbo wastegate letting precious boost escape? Some copper gasket maker will have you sorted in the time it takes the turbo to cool down. Also, let’s not forget about the fact that if you don’t have these things on board, you’ll almost certainly need them. If they’re packed in the tool kit, you’ll rarely require their services. Cheap insurance if you ask us.

4: How to fix common 4WD electrical problems

Just ask any old Land Rover owner or bloke who installed all of his 12V accessories using the old twist-n-tape method, or worse, Scotchlok connectors, what their number one reliability issue is, and they’ll answer: electrical issues.

The shaking, rattling and (hopefully not) rolling that many 4x4s go through also mucks with your electrical terminations and connections. The rule of thumb is: if something’s not working, check the grounding points first. Chances are they’re loose or not offering a good enough connection. Remove the fastener, remove any paint or dirt that’s preventing the ground from being established, throw a good wipe of dielectric grease on everything and reassemble. Fixes the problem 70 per cent of the time, every time.

5: Daily 4WD checks to prevent breakdowns

Okay, this isn’t so much a repair as a good guideline for preventative maintenance, but running a spanner over things that can work loose from corrugations is an important item on your daily checklist when travelling remote. Off-road travel is a fastener’s worst nightmare and stuff works loose all the time.

This is where a quality thread-locking compound like Loctite (↗) is your best friend. Check all your usual bolt-on stuff like awnings, racks, bar work, mounting brackets and driving lights. A tube of Loctite 243 (blue) will see you clear of a lot of trouble in our experience.

It’s not so much about being able to rebuild your entire vehicle; it’s more about being self-sufficient and being capable of repairs to get you back to civilisation. A solid tool kit that’s tailored to your rig (metric spanners won’t help you on your 1970 F-Truck) and the right products to help shore up any leaks, damage or unforeseen parts coming loose will see you out of all but the most serious of mishaps.

FAQs

What are the most common trackside repairs when 4WD touring?

Tyre punctures, CV joint failures, gasket leaks and electrical faults are among the more common repairs.

What should you carry in a 4WD repair kit?

A tyre repair kit, basic tools, spare parts, RTV gasket sealant, dielectric grease and Loctite (↗) are useful inclusions.

Can you replace a CV joint on the track?

Yes. Carrying a suitable spare CV joint and knowing how to fit it can help get you moving again after a failure.

How can you fix a gasket leak in the bush?

RTV gasket sealant can provide an emergency repair for certain leaks, including differential covers and airbox sealing surfaces.

Why should you check your 4WD after driving corrugated roads?

Corrugations can loosen fasteners and electrical connections. Regular checks of accessories, mounting brackets and other fittings can help prevent problems.

We all have our own house rules, and it’s simple etiquette to respect those of others.

Some are standard fare, like taking off muddy boots before walking inside or flushing the dunny after use. They’re obvious and fair requests to make of anyone visiting my castle. Others might seem a little strange to some folk but, given the homeowner rules the roost, what they say goes. The way I see it: like it or leave!

But it seems many homeowners forget their own rules, whether standard or strange and left-of-field, as soon as they head bush. Why? A lack of respect for public or other people’s land, regardless of whether they’re paying for the privilege of using it or soaking up a freebie. Some folk seem to figure that if no one’s watching, they don’t have to worry about the mess they leave behind. Maybe it’s laziness or just downright self-righteousness, but they reckon the usual rules don’t apply to them. These are the people who will eventually have us all locked out of our own public and private backyards.

Bush etiquette rules every 4×4 owner should know

Just like at home, many of the rules we must abide by are unwritten.

Most are common sense; some are learned from parents and friends when you first go camping; some are picked up by observing what others do and realising what should be done to look after our land; and some are learned from publications like 4X4 Australia.

Don’t trot out the old furphy that if something isn’t written on a big, fancy signpost planted in front of you, you don’t have to abide by a particular rule, request or reasonably well-known etiquette. Nope, ignorance and disrespect are no excuse.

Read on for a few standard and not-so-common examples of etiquette we regularly see disregarded. Some are in the not-too-bad basket, others are annoying, while some are downright disgusting – to the point that some grubs shouldn’t be allowed out in our great outdoors, judging by some of the things we’ve witnessed over the years.

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Dispose of toilet paper and human waste properly 

Leaving toilet paper to blow around in the breeze, lying on top of the ground for animals to scrounge or presuming it’ll magically disappear when you leave is the number-one problem we see while travelling around Australia.

Remoteness is no barrier to people leaving their poo tickets behind for all who follow to see. Nope, we’ve witnessed plenty of dunny paper, from easy-to-reach coastal campsites to remote central Australian desert scenes, rolling along the ground. Proof that it’s not just city folk in cars having a weekender, but also four-wheel drivers with all kinds of setups who are able to reach our far-flung, beautiful spaces.

No, it’s not just the crap and skid-marked dunny paper we see floating around campsites – ladies and gentlemen, you’re all to blame. Yes, I know we all need to dump a load (almost) every day, but have the decency to discard it properly.

Then there’s the odd piece of toilet paper scattered around the bush, even when there’s no sign it was used for anything more than a quick toilet stop. Whatever the reason, if you use toilet paper, take it with you or dispose of it properly. Leaving it behind because you think a small piece doesn’t matter is still littering, and it quickly spoils an otherwise pristine campsite. Come on, people, it’s not that hard to clean up after yourself in the bush. You keep your own home clean of crap and dunny paper, so have the decency to do the same while out in the bush.

Perhaps, along with the calls from some for mandatory towing licences for all those who travel with caravans, all travellers, campers, tourers and people who wander beyond their front doorstep should complete a course in ‘How to Crap in the Bush’! If you don’t follow simple bush toileting etiquette, don’t jump up and down whinging when once-pristine places keep getting locked up.

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Never leave broken glass behind

Nothing ticks me off more than walking on broken glass and having my feet slashed because of someone else’s ignorance and stupidity.

Yeah, I wear appropriate footwear most of the time, but there are occasions when I’m barefoot at camp, on the beach or while swimming, and having to deal with broken glass is a surefire way to turn me into a cranky pants with a foul mouth.

Fair enough, accidents happen. If you bust a glass bottle, pick up every piece. Don’t throw it in the fire; glass generally won’t melt or burn away in a campfire. Badly cut feet can mean a trip to the local hospital for stitches – if there is one anywhere near you.

Extinguish campfires properly and prevent bushfires

We all love a campfire; it’s mesmerising, good for the soul and a great place to have a long yarn with mates.

A campfire also has the ability to attract strangers, turning them into potential mates, whether temporary or lifelong. That same fire can help ward off biting insects and other prowling nighttime critters. Here’s the kicker: Most people presume that once the flames have died down and the coals have turned black, that’s the end of the heat. No siree; that third-degree, foot-scalding heat can linger for hours, particularly if the coals have been covered with dirt or sand.

The best way to quickly and safely extinguish your campfire is with plenty of water. Spreading the coals and leftover timber over a wider area can help them cool more quickly, but make sure there’s no residual heat before you leave the site.

Regardless of the time of day or night, if you have a fire, keep an eye on it and make sure it can’t spread into surrounding grass or scrub and start a bushfire. Embers can travel surprisingly high and far and start spot fires, so be especially vigilant in windy conditions. If there’s a total fire ban, don’t light up. It’s that simple.

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Take all your rubbish with you

Simply put: If you take it in, be prepared to take it out.

Plenty of remote areas don’t provide rubbish bins, so take it all with you and dispose of it appropriately. Sure, some food scraps will break down, but consider what wildlife might try to eat them and whether they could cause harm.

And I can assure you, it’s not always travellers passing through who leave rubbish behind. Some of the filth I’ve witnessed on recent trips has included food tins, nappies and drink containers scattered around campsites and surrounding bush, with no attempt made to clean it up or take it away. Whoever you are and wherever you come from, that sort of behaviour has no place in the bush.

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Don’t let drinking ruin the campsite

Yep, I love a cold drink or two at the end of a hot day, sitting around the campfire and chilling out in the evening.

But those who can’t control their drinking and get loud, obnoxious and disrespectful need to think about the consequences of their actions. No one wants to hear loud-mouthed yobbos swearing, carrying on like tossers and thinking they can out-drive everyone as they stagger over to their vehicle and give it a heroic rev. Your half-cut driving skills serve no purpose and impress no one. Don’t drink and drive on public or private land – the consequences could be life-ending. 

Respect other campers and keep the noise down

I love my music at home, while driving and at the campsite. The volume varies depending on a few factors, including who’s watching and listening to me sing.

Seriously, though, no matter what your musical taste, keep the volume down at campsites so you don’t disturb fellow campers. Sound can travel a long way at night and over water – especially when your neighbours don’t share your taste in music. While caravan parks often have noise curfews, use your common sense at free camps, national parks or anywhere else out in the wilds of our great country.

Respect other people’s personal space. Sure, wave and say g’day as you wander past someone else’s campsite, but don’t assume you can wander in unless you’re invited. You wouldn’t walk uninvited into someone else’s home in the suburbs, would you?

If space permits, don’t set up camp right beside someone who’s already there. I’ve politely asked people to move on when they’ve decided to set up right next to me. Give each other the space we all head bush to enjoy.

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Follow basic 4×4 driving and track etiquette

Written and unwritten, there are plenty of simple procedures and techniques to follow when driving away from the city lights – without getting too dictatorial or bossy about it.

When approaching oncoming traffic on dirt roads, slow the hell down and move over to your left to avoid dusting fellow road users and throwing stones at their windscreens. The number of times I’ve had my windscreen hit by stones flicked up by drivers travelling at full tilt is frustrating as hell. I get it, you want to maintain an optimal speed over corrugations, especially when towing a caravan, but don’t think for one moment that you automatically have right of way or that you won’t be flicking stones hell west and crooked.

I’ve been pelted with stones a few times lately by drivers towing caravans who refuse to slow down. Let’s just say the offenders are usually well down the road by the time they get to miss what I have to say about their disrespectful, nonchalant driving skills … or lack thereof. Maybe you have no idea of the damage you’re causing or simply don’t care. Either way, if you see other drivers furiously waving their arms at you, take a moment to wonder what you might be doing to upset them.

It’s not just out on the faster dirt roads, either. When you’re cruising into a campsite, have the decency to slow down so you don’t spread dust over other campers. Sure, if the wind is blowing in an unfavourable direction you can’t totally prevent it, but keep an eye on the conditions and your rear-view mirrors to see where your dust trail is going.

No, I don’t wave to every driver while in towns or cities unless I know them. But out bush and in remote areas, it’s standard etiquette to wave to oncoming vehicles. It’s also common for vehicles tackling rougher sections of track very slowly to come to a complete stop, wind down the windows and have a chinwag for a minute or … ten. It might just be a general g’day, or you might swap track conditions, let each other know if other vehicles are following in a convoy or pass on interesting information about something worth seeing up ahead – bush telegraph-style info.

On narrow or single-lane tracks, two 4x4s obviously can’t pass each other unless one or both move off the track. While there are no set rules as to who should move over, much of it comes down to common sense: Whichever vehicle can most easily find a suitable space to pull aside is the one that moves. In general, if you’re heading downhill, give way to those coming uphill. There are plenty of situations where this may not be practical, though, so each encounter should be judged on its merits and handled with a bit of common sense and courtesy.

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Don’t be that pig-headed driver who barges ahead, stays in the middle of the track and expects everyone else to move for them. Sometimes size matters; larger 4×4 RV trucks and 4x4s towing caravans can’t get off the track as easily as smaller vehicles. Trucks and road trains need plenty of room, so when it’s safe to do so, pull well over and give them space. You’ll reduce the chance of stone strikes and dust ingress in your 4×4, and the truckie will appreciate your help in keeping the big rig rolling.

On beaches, in general, keep left just like you would on a road. Using your indicator is a great way to let others know which side you intend to pass on. Many beaches are gazetted roads, so road rules apply. When approaching pedestrians, slow right down and avoid driving too close to them. It can be hard, if not impossible, to hear an approaching vehicle over the crash of the waves, so expect unpredictable behaviour from pedestrians, especially kids. For safety’s sake, give them plenty of space.

Don’t drive like a tool. Ripping up tracks, tackling challenging obstacles in 2WD, hooning, chucking doughnuts or doing circle work will damage the area and could see us all locked out. The damage you do to your own vehicle, or the risk of hitting others, is inexcusable. Take it easy out there and everyone will get to enjoy the place.

Leave gates the same way you found them. If they’re shut, close them after you go through. If they’re open, leave them open. You should have a UHF radio fitted to your 4×4, so use it when approaching other vehicles in less-than-favourable situations. Talk to people and let them know your intentions, or ask what theirs are.

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Stay on designated tracks and resist the temptation to create new ones. If there’s a tree down, try to remove it if it’s safe to do so. If there’s a bog hole or a stretch of slop you need to traverse, get out and walk it first to work out the best way through. Most of the time, staying on the existing track is best.

Watch out for and give way to horse riders, pushbike riders, walkers and motorcyclists. You’re in a mostly air-conditioned armchair on wheels, so it makes sense to show some respect by slowing down, giving them plenty of room and passing at a safe speed.

Smokers: Yes, it’s your right to smoke. It’s my right not to have to suck your second-hand fumes into my lungs. And it’s everyone’s right not to have the bush set alight by the ignorant flick of a cigarette butt out the window. Stub your butt out properly in an ashtray, or another suitable container, make sure it’s completely extinguished and keep it in your own vehicle until you can dispose of it properly.

Be prepared to help when things go wrong

Not everyone is mechanically minded, a bush mechanic or capable of spinning spanners to fix a mishap when they’re a long way from the safety of home or the nearest roadside assistance.

But carrying adequate tools, spares and assorted odds and ends to help repair your vehicle is a must. Don’t expect others to break out their gear to help you. If someone does offer to lend a hand, pitch in where you can rather than sitting back and watching. Offer payment in cash or liquid gold. Most folk won’t accept it, but always make the offer.

The same goes for recoveries. If you get stuck, be prepared with your own recovery equipment. Don’t presume others will pull out theirs and, if their gear gets damaged helping you, offer to pay for it. Snatch straps, winch ropes and other recovery gear can easily be damaged and aren’t cheap.

If you see someone broken down, bogged or otherwise in trouble, stop and offer help. Even if you can’t fix the problem, it’s always reassuring to have someone on your side when you need it – even if all they can offer is communication, a cold drink or advice on how to get to the next town.

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Slow down and watch out for wildlife and livestock

Slow down and keep an eye out for animals – wild or livestock.

Regardless of signage, time of day or night, hot or cold, drought or flood, there’s always a danger of an animal strike while driving our outback roads and tracks. Don’t rely on your bullbar, driving lights or perceived driving skills to magically prevent you from coming head to head with a beast. The faster you go, the greater the chance you’ll hit something sooner or later.

Follow the rules and keep the bush open to everyone

There are dozens more unwritten rules of the bush, caravan parks, camping areas and beaches.

Don’t walk through other people’s campsites, don’t do an oil change straight into Mother Earth, don’t crap near a waterway, don’t encroach on farmers’ land, don’t chase or disturb livestock and don’t litter the highway, bush, beach or anywhere else like a disrespectful grub.

If you’re up for travelling our great land without destroying it, observe a few basic rules and a bit of simple etiquette, then get out there, explore, have an adventure and enjoy all Australia has to offer. If not, your stupidity, ignorance, selfishness and disrespect will eventually have us all locked out.

It all comes down to common sense, which seems to be in short supply with some people these days. So, if you can’t follow a few basic rules of the bush, stay at home instead of buggering it up for the rest of us.

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Rules to remember

• Dispose of toilet paper and human waste properly
• Never leave broken glass behind
• Extinguish campfires properly
• Take all your rubbish with you
• Drink responsibly
• Keep noise down and respect other campers
• Follow on- and off-road etiquette
• Help others when things go wrong
• Slow down and watch out for animals

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you leave toilet paper in the bush?

No. Take used toilet paper with you or dispose of it properly. Leaving it behind is littering and spoils campsites.

Can you throw glass bottles into a campfire?

No. Glass generally won’t melt or burn away in a campfire. If you break a bottle, collect every piece and dispose of it properly.

What’s the best way to extinguish a campfire?

Use plenty of water. Spreading coals and leftover timber can help them cool faster, but make sure there’s no residual heat before leaving.

Who gives way on a narrow 4×4 track?

Generally, whichever vehicle can most easily find a suitable spot to pull aside should move. Vehicles travelling downhill should usually give way to those coming uphill.

Should you slow down when passing other vehicles on dirt roads?

Yes. Slow down and move left when approaching oncoming traffic to avoid throwing stones and dust at other road users.

Should you help other drivers who get stuck or break down?

Yes. Stop and offer assistance where possible, even if it’s just a cold drink, communication or advice.

A new-generation GR Sport is reportedly set to join the Toyota HiLux range in 2027.

South African publication Cars.co.za (↗) reports Toyota South Africa Motors has confirmed the ninth-generation HiLux range will gain a GR Sport flagship, with the model expected to arrive sometime next year. The news was revealed by Andrew Kirby, president and CEO of Toyota South Africa Motors, during an interview at Naamsa’s SA Auto Week 2026 event in Durban earlier in October.

The new GR Sport has yet to be revealed, and Toyota has not confirmed whether it will retain the widebody configuration of the previous GR Sport. However, this is considered likely due to the popularity of the previous model and the investment involved in developing its wider track.

The powertrain is also unconfirmed, although Cars.co.za (↗) expects the new model could retain the uprated 2.8-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel from the previous GR Sport. It produces 165kW and 550Nm, compared with 150kW and 500Nm in the standard engine. A six-speed automatic transmission and four-wheel drive are also expected to be standard.

The new model is tipped to feature over-fenders, model-specific wheels with chunky tyres, upgraded suspension, a bespoke front-end design and GR branding. Interior upgrades are also anticipated.

The HiLux GR Sport arrived in Australia in 2023, based on the previous-generation model. It featured wider tracks, upgraded suspension and an uprated 2.8-litre turbo-diesel producing 165kW and 550Nm. The model has since been discontinued.

Toyota Australia has yet to confirm whether the new HiLux GR Sport will return to Australia.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the new Toyota HiLux GR Sport expected?

The new model is reportedly due to launch in South Africa sometime in 2027.

Will the new HiLux GR Sport have a widebody design?

It has not been confirmed, but the wider track is expected to return.

What engine will the new HiLux GR Sport use?

The expected powertrain is an uprated 2.8-litre turbo-diesel producing 165kW and 550Nm, although this remains unconfirmed.

Will the new HiLux GR Sport come to Australia?

Toyota Australia has yet to confirm whether the GR Sport will return to the local HiLux range.

Australian buyers can now order a remastered Defender Classic V8 for the first time, but the bespoke off-roader will cost more than $400,000 before delivery and local taxes.

The Defender Classic V8 is remastered through Land Rover’s Works Bespoke programme, with each vehicle starting life as a donor Defender built between 2012 and 2016. Buyers can choose from three body styles: the 90 Station Wagon, Soft Top and 110 Station Wagon, before specifying colours, interior trims and accessories.

Under the bonnet is a naturally aspirated 5.0-litre petrol V8 producing 298kW and 515Nm, paired with an eight-speed ZF automatic transmission and all-wheel drive. The remastered Defender also receives upgraded suspension and brakes, including Eibach springs and anti-roll bars, Bilstein dampers and four-piston Alcon brakes.

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Australian customers can begin the ordering process using an online configurator before working with Defender Classic specialists to finalise their vehicle’s specification. Exterior options include Heritage and Extended colour palettes, or a custom colour through a match-to-sample service. Buyers can also choose between three grille designs, black or silver exterior packs, and 16-inch Wolf steel wheels or 18-inch Sawtooth alloys.

For those planning to take their Classic V8 off-road or touring, a range of accessories is available including side steps, a roof rack, ladder, expedition cage and winch. The optional Explorer Pack adds further touring equipment, including a Ply Guys camper conversion that turns the rear of the cabin into a living space, while a roof-mounted tent box and ladder are also available.

Inside, the Classic Defender layout is retained but modern features have been added, including wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, satellite navigation and DAB radio through a 4.8-inch touchscreen. A larger nine-inch touchscreen and reversing camera can also be specified, while buyers have a choice of five standard monotone interior colours or eight duotone combinations. Premium seats are optional, while selected models can be fitted with Recaro seats.

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“Since its introduction, our Works Bespoke programme has become the ultimate expression of Defender Classic ownership, with clients commissioning highly individual vehicles tailored to their personal tastes and lifestyles,” said Dominic Elms, Director of Defender Classic.

“The programme has enabled our teams to showcase extraordinary levels of craftsmanship, creativity and attention to detail, with every Defender Classic V8 handcrafted to an individual’s specification. As we expand into new markets, we look forward to helping new clients bring their vision to life through a truly custom commissioning experience.”

V8 power has a long history in the original Defender and its predecessors, dating back to the 1979 Series III Stage 1. The 5.0-litre Defender Classic V8, introduced in 2018, was the first official V8-powered Defender since 1998, with later limited editions including the Islay, Trophy and Churchill models. Land Rover expanded its Works Bespoke programme in 2024, allowing buyers to create a fully personalised Defender Classic V8.

Prices for the Defender Classic V8 start from £209,000 (approximately $420,000), plus delivery and local taxes. A Sunset Gold Soft Top is also available for immediate purchase.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How much does the Defender Classic V8 cost?

Prices start from £209,000 (approximately $420,000), plus delivery and local taxes.

Can you buy the Defender Classic V8 in Australia?

Yes. Australian customers can now commission one for the first time through Land Rover’s Works Bespoke programme.

What engine does the Defender Classic V8 use?

A naturally aspirated 5.0-litre petrol V8 producing 298kW and 515Nm.

What body styles are available?

The 90 Station Wagon, 90 Soft Top and 110 Station Wagon.

Can the Defender Classic V8 be customised?

Yes. Buyers can choose exterior colours, interior trims, wheels, grille designs and off-road accessories, with further bespoke options available.