Ford Australia has issued a safety recall for 244 examples of the 2022 Ranger and Everest, citing a transmission software defect that could cause the vehicle to stop unexpectedly.

The recall, listed as REC-006541 on the Australian Government’s Vehicle Recalls website, relates to an issue where the transmission may shift into Park unintentionally under specific conditions. According to the notice, if the vehicle’s battery state of charge drops below a critical level while travelling at speeds below 6km/h, the transmission software may command a shift into Park, causing the vehicle to suddenly stop.

In addition to the loss of drive, the rear brake lamps may not illuminate as intended during the event. This reduces warning to following traffic and increases the risk of a rear-end collision.

Ford has advised that even vehicles previously repaired under an earlier related recall campaign (23S40) must be returned, as further corrective action is required.

Ford Australia will contact affected owners directly and request they book their vehicle into an authorised Ford dealership. The remedy involves updating the vehicle’s software, and the work will be carried out free of charge.

Owners who are unsure whether their vehicle is affected are advised to check their VIN against the recall listing on the Vehicle Recalls website or contact Ford Australia directly.

RedBook has listed BYD’s Shark 6 cab‑chassis Dynamic at $55,900 before on‑road costs, undercutting the dual‑cab by roughly $2000 and giving BYD a foothold in the tradie and fleet market.

Certification documents that surfaced late last year confirmed the cab‑chassis would retain the core mechanical layout and much of the dual-cab ute’s front-end styling. Plus, it would carry over the 3260mm wheelbase.

It would, however, replace the factory tray with a bare chassis ready for custom trays, tool modules or canopies. Dropping the tray is expected to reduce the tare weight to 2565kg, making it 110kg lighter than the tray-equipped ute; while the gross vehicle mass will remain 3500kg, giving a usable payload of 935kg – well above the dual-cab’s 790kg.

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Under the skin, a 1.5‑litre turbo petrol engine paired with dual electric motors produces 321kW and 650Nm, backed by a 29.6 kWh battery that allows around 100km of electric-only driving in the dual-cab. Range for the cab‑chassis is expected to be similar.

The Dynamic trim is expected to be stripped back, with BYD removing some interior luxuries such as the head‑up display, heated and ventilated seats, and larger infotainment screen. 

Compared with diesel cab‑chassis rivals, both the HiLux WorkMate and Ford Ranger XL look better at a glance. The Shark delivers 2500kg towing and 935kg payload, while diesel-powered HiLux and Ranger alternatives can tow up to 3500kg and often have payload capacities in excess of 1000kg.

BYD has not confirmed a launch date, but the pricing on RedBook suggests the cab‑chassis could reach showrooms in the first half of 2026. 

• Update 1: Project X
• Update 2: Through the Lens
• Update 3: The little things

Update 1: Project X

By Matt Raudonikis

• Total kilometres: 1527km
• Average fuel use: 9.9L/100km

Following an extensive pre-launch media campaign, the Kia Tasman became the most talked-about new midsize 4×4 ute to hit the Australian market in 2025 – and not all of that talk was positive.

Even before it went on sale, it was clear that plenty of folk weren’t fans of the Tasman’s styling, particularly the look of its front end. The Tasman isn’t the first – and certainly won’t be the last – new vehicle to cop such criticism, but put the looks aside and take it for a drive, and your opinion might quickly change.

With all the interest surrounding the Tasman – and after completing a couple of road tests since its launch – we decided to add one to the fleet for three months to get a true feel for what the Kia ute is like to live with.

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We chose the top-of-the-range Tasman X-Pro for this loan – not just for its extensive list of comfort and convenience features, but because it’s the model aimed squarely at off-road users, with a selectable rear diff lock, all-terrain tyres, extra off-road drive modes and no side steps.

Our first outing in the Tasman was as part of our extensive midsize 4×4 ute comparison – which you’ll be able to read all about soon.

At $75K, the X-Pro comes loaded with features – many of which we’ve already come to appreciate. These include a wide, roomy cabin fitted with supportive heated and cooled power-adjustable front seats; rear seats that slide and tilt forward; a pair of large, easy-to-read multimedia screens; dual wireless phone chargers; an integrated trailer brake controller with trailer setup checks; 17-inch alloys with all-terrain rubber; X-Trek crawl control; a selectable diff lock; and a large cargo bed.

The drivetrain is relatively smooth and quiet for a diesel ute. It’s powered by a 2.2-litre single-turbo diesel engine producing a claimed 155kW and 441Nm, backed by an eight-speed automatic transmission and a dual-range, part-time transfer case that also offers a 4×4 Auto mode for all-road, all-wheel-drive use.

This combo is a pleasure to drive both on- and off-road, however we do feel it’s a little underdone when you put your foot down for overtaking at highway speeds or when towing heavy loads.

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Update 2: Through the lens

By Ellen Dewar

A week in the field gives 4X4 Australia’s resident photographer a close-up look at our Kia Tasman X-Pro.

In my Inner West street there’s no shortage personalities and vehicles. The rotating test-car fleet usually sparks lively debate, but nothing has divided opinions quite like the Kia Tasman. Its styling has prompted plenty of spirited comments, not all flattering. Then again, neither was ’90s baggy fashion, and that’s well and truly back – along with a resurgence of the music.

Like any new model, the Tasman takes a little getting used to. At 5ft 2, climbing in and out of vehicles can feel like a minor workout, and the Kia sits even taller than my FJ Cruiser. I briefly considered fitting a small step but quickly dismissed it as overcomplicating things. For now, getting aboard is treated as part of my fitness routine – made easier by the well-placed grab handles.

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Inside, the cabin feels refined. The layout is modern and easy to settle into once the start button is located – tucked cheekily behind the steering wheel, it isn’t immediately intuitive. The seats are well-cushioned and supportive, making long drives comfortable, while visibility is excellent, though shorter drivers will need to adjust the seat carefully.

Cabin noise is minimal, and the infotainment system is straightforward, though, like all new tech, it can distract until you’re familiar with its features. Apple CarPlay proved a little frustrating when trying to switch to local radio – multiple button presses were required, and even after several attempts, I still couldn’t recall the exact sequence.

Over 10 days with the Tasman as my workhorse, the first task was shed-cleaning at my parents’ property, followed by a long week at Wheels Car of the Year (COTY). The tub lining is excellent for stress-free loading, with ample tie-down points to secure gear. Hitching a trailer was straightforward: the rear camera provided a clear view for alignment, and the standard 7-pin flat configuration made connections easy. Lights, indicators and brakes all performed as expected, though the trailer-signal icon repeatedly flashed on the dash despite correct connections. Likely caused by the trailer’s LED rear lights and older wiring, it was more of an annoyance than a functional problem.

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One noticeable limitation was the Tasman’s small side mirrors. Combined with its width, standard box trailers are invisible, even on bends, only reappearing at T-intersections. Larger mirrors would improve confidence when towing. Still, towing itself was good, even over bigger bumps on country roads. The ride feels firm, but the Tasman handled a load with ease.

Without a tonneau cover or canopy, the Tasman highlights just how exposed utes can be when carrying expensive gear. Fortunately, the rear cabin is generous, allowing camera equipment to be neatly stacked on the floor and seats while remaining easily accessible.

At COTY, Victoria threw everything at it – sun, rain, and gale-force winds and the Tasman handled it all. It drove confidently across wet, twisty Gippsland roads, pulling into muddy or gravel areas without hesitation, a godsend for this job. With tougher all-terrain tyres, it would be even more capable. Its height was also useful, doubling as a stable platform for wide multi-car setups and tracking shots at Lang Lang’s speed bowl.

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Over my days of testing, the Tasman impressed with its comfort and practicality. It’s easy to drive and genuinely useful for work. While its styling divides opinion, it certainly gets people talking. City parking can be a challenge due to its size, but as a workhorse it’s outstanding. Fitted with a canopy, it would be even better for both work and weekend adventures.

Update 3: The little things

By Matt Raudonikis

• Total kilometres: 4740km
• Average fuel use: 9.4L/100km

Living with the Tasman has its pros and cons, and it’s the little things that make all the difference.

When you have a vehicle as well equipped as the Tasman in top-of-the-range X-Pro trim, it’s the little things you notice over time that you come to appreciate – along with a few areas that could be better.

One of the standout features is the well-appointed and accommodating Tasman cabin, so let’s start with the front seats. As you’d expect in a top-of-the-line model, the seats are power adjustable to get you into the ideal driving position. They’re leather trimmed, and the front seats also feature heating and ventilation.

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My favourite thing about the seats is the way the backrest follows your spine upwards, and the fact the headrests are adjustable fore and aft to position them close to the back of your head. This not only makes the seats comfortable on a long drive, but also improves safety in the event of an accident, as proper head, neck and back support is critical.

Less impressive is the placement of the seat heating and ventilation controls. The buttons are positioned too far forward on the doors, making it difficult to see the icons when operating them. That said, once you know where they are, they’re easy enough to find by feel.

Some drivers have complained about the usability of the column-mounted gear selector and ignition button, but I found both familiar after just a day or two. The layout also places the start button on the correct side of the column, making it easy to locate when getting into the car. The steering column is power adjustable for reach and height, but I wish it extended further back, as I found myself reaching forward to the steering wheel while driving. That’s an issue I encounter in many vehicles, as I have relatively long legs.

The placement of the USB ports on the inside edges of the front seats is clever, as it makes them easy to find and access for both front and rear passengers. There are additional USB ports in the centre console for front-seat occupants. The seatback pockets are also handy, and the rear seat slide and tilt function is excellent for rear passenger comfort. However, this functionality prevents the rear seat from folding up to create additional cargo space.

Up front, the dual 12.3-inch screens for multimedia, instruments and HVAC are well executed, with all functions within easy reach of the driver. I also liked being able to select a dash layout with round analogue-style gauges for a more traditional look, while still having quick access to tyre pressure and trip information screens.

I wasn’t a fan of wireless charging after having a phone damaged by an earlier system, but the two wireless chargers in the Tasman’s centre console haven’t overheated at all. It’s become second nature to drop my phone in there for charging and CarPlay as soon as I jump in the Kia.

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One quirk of the media system is that if you’re listening to the radio and open Maps for navigation, the system automatically switches audio to CarPlay and cuts the radio. That proved frustrating, although we did find a workaround at the time – I just wish I could remember what it was. While most HVAC controls are handled via large buttons low in the centre stack, the HVAC display itself sits behind the steering wheel, meaning you need to look around the rim to see it.

Outside, I like the fact the Tasman doesn’t have side steps. I’m tall and find steps often get in the way when getting in and out, while also brushing against your jeans and getting them dirty. The plastic side steps fitted to many utes are also usually among the first things to be torn off when driving off-road. That said, some shorter drivers may miss having a step to aid entry. Also outside, the X-Pro features handy tie-down points in the tray, with the usual four in the corners plus adjustable points along the sides of the bed. There’s also a power outlet in the tray.

For me, the positives of the Tasman X-Pro far outweigh the negatives, and it’s become my favourite four-wheel drive ute to drive on a daily basis. In many ways, the Tasman has set the benchmark for future utes to chase.

Is it too much to expect a modern 4.5-litre V8 diesel to hold top gear while cruising on the highway in a Toyota LandCruiser? A 3.0-litre European six will manage it easily enough, but apparently not Toyota’s 1VD-FTV engine.

We all know the Toyota V8 is a lazy engine that does its best work at low speeds, but a recent drive from Mansfield back to Melbourne highlighted just how ordinary its highway performance can be.

Our Cruiser was perfectly fine for long highway trips in stock standard form. However, once we fitted taller tyres and loaded it up with accessories in the back, it really started to feel the extra weight. On that run home from the mountains, the Cruiser simply wouldn’t hold top gear at the speed limit whenever the road pointed even slightly uphill.

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Luckily, the lack of performance is a well-known shortcoming, and Australia has a strong aftermarket industry offering proven solutions. On the recommendation of an industry mate, we contacted Melbourne’s Horsepower Factory (HP-F) to sort the Cruiser out.

HP-F has been in the business of improving the performance of modern vehicles for more than 40 years. While the company built its reputation hotting up Holdens, Fords and other performance cars, it has since turned its attention – and considerable experience – to the four-wheel drive market in line with changing trends.

Diesel Tune Australia is part of the HP-F operation and, as the name suggests, specialises in tuning modern diesel engines as found in four-wheel drives. With two chassis dynamometers onsite at its sprawling Dandenong facility, HP-F is able to build and tune everything from torque-heavy touring 4x4s through to high-horsepower race cars.

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Spending a couple of days onsite while work was carried out on our LandCruiser was a treat for the senses, with a constant stream of machinery coming and going and the unmistakable sound of high-revving V8s echoing from the performance dyno. While the LandCruiser was never going to reach such dizzying engine speeds, the machinery surrounding it made it clear we were in the right place.

HP-F offers a range of performance packages for Toyota’s V8 diesel, depending on what owners want from their vehicle. Packages run from Stage 1 through to Stage 4, with the top-tier option quoted at more than 1000Nm – well over double the standard engine’s torque output.

Stage 1 V8 upgrade: Torque and power gains

After talking through our needs with Matt Jackson at HP-F, we settled on the Stage 1 package as the best fit for how we use our LandCruiser.

That tune is quoted at 650Nm and 195kW, up from the factory 430Nm and 131kW. More important than the headline numbers, though, is how the torque arrives earlier and lower in the rev range – exactly where a touring four-wheel drive needs it. The HP-F upgrade is more than just an ECU tune. It’s a complete package based around the Diesel Tune Australia calibration, but it also includes the supporting hardware required to make the gains reliable and durable over the long term.

For the LandCruiser V8 tune, this package includes a 4-inch Manta replacement exhaust system, an upgraded clutch to cope with the increased torque, a Safari replacement intake snorkel head, and an oil catch can. The full tune and installation process takes around a day at HP-F, assuming everything goes to plan.

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The first step is to strap the vehicle onto the dyno to establish a baseline, confirming where it’s at and ensuring everything is in good health. Our LandCruiser was relatively new at the time of the upgrade, with less than 20,000km on the clock. On the rollers it produced 96kW and 293Nm at the 34-inch tyres. With the baseline recorded, it was then off to the workshop, where the side steps were removed to allow the factory exhaust system to come out, followed by removal of the gearbox crossmember so the gearbox and clutch could be dropped.

For our clutch upgrade, we’ve gone with the X-Series Organic kit from Xtreme Outback. This is the brand’s latest release for the VDJ LandCruiser and is designed to handle up to 870Nm, so it should be more than capable of coping with the increased output of our Toyota. To ensure it does the job properly, the pressure plate is rated to 1600kg and is actuated by a new self-adjusting slave cylinder. This setup is designed to maintain consistent clutch feel and engagement as the clutch wears over time.

The kit also includes a replacement steel flywheel, which is a beautifully made piece of hardware in its own right. In fact, the entire package is impressive, with all the required components supplied to complete the installation, including a nanosized alignment tool, dual-friction clutch plate and the slave cylinder.

Initial driving impressions are positive. The clutch feels no heavier than the factory unit but delivers a precise, positive pick-up that’s easy to live with in day-to-day driving.

Exhaust, clutch and supporting hardware

The 4-inch stainless-steel DPF-back exhaust system is an equally impressive piece of kit.

It dwarfs the factory exhaust while following the same route beneath the vehicle. The system deletes the rear muffler, as the DPF already takes care of most exhaust noise, leaving the Cruiser with a deep burble at idle and a purposeful note when you put your foot down. The V8 LandCruiser finally sounds the way it should. Importantly, the large stainless-steel outlet clears our Marks 4WD high-clearance towbar, and the system is also designed to allow space for long-range fuel tanks and rear airbag suspension.

With the new clutch and exhaust fitted, the gearbox reinstalled and the side steps bolted back on, it was time to fire the Cruiser up and head back to the dyno. Our vehicle already runs an upgraded snorkel, so there was no need to fit the revised intake.

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On the dyno, the operator connects the Toyota to a laptop and uploads the tune into the ECU before spinning it up on the rollers. From there, variables such as boost pressure and delivery are adjusted to optimise the torque curve, while closely monitoring air/fuel ratios, exhaust gas temperatures and engine temperatures.

After several runs and incremental adjustments, the final results are impressive. Torque climbed to 548Nm and power to 133.5kW, up from the baseline 293Nm and 96kW. That’s a substantial improvement, and comfortably beyond what’s quoted for the Stage 1 upgrade. We’re more than happy with the numbers, though the real proof will be in how it drives.

Before handing the vehicle back, the team carried out an extended road test to ensure everything was operating exactly as it should, before we headed off for our own drive. 

On- and off-road driving performance

Even though the DPF muffles much of the exhaust note, you can still hear the pleasant rumble of the V8 through the 4-inch system as soon as you turn the key. It’s a welcome sound after the muted factory exhaust note.

Likewise, the action of the Xtreme Outback clutch isn’t dramatically different from standard. It’s certainly no heavier, which is a good thing, and if anything the engagement feels smoother as you release it and take off. It’s only once we pull onto the highway and put our foot down that the Cruiser really comes to life, pulling hard as the gears roll past and reaching the speed limit quick smart. It now cruises comfortably in top gear and, importantly, holds it easily when climbing hills while touring.

The grunt is still there on steeper climbs in the lower gears, but the combination of the HP-F tune and supporting upgrades feels like it’s effectively gifted us an extra gear in most driving conditions.

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Off-road, we pointed the Cruiser up a steep unsealed fire trail we’ve driven many times before. It’s the sort of climb you’d normally tackle in high-range four-wheel drive, yet the stock LC79 would bog down and require low range. With the tune and modifications in place, it held second gear high range all the way to the top without hesitation – an impressive transformation.

It’s this all-round drivability, particularly in the higher gears, that best highlights the difference the HP-F package delivers. Whether touring on the highway or climbing mountain tracks in the Alps, our LandCruiser is now a noticeably easier and more enjoyable vehicle to drive. It finally goes – and sounds – like a V8 diesel should.

Cost and what’s included

The Stage 1 HP-F upgrade for the DPF-equipped LC79 retails for $4160.

That price includes the ECU tune, 4-inch stainless-steel exhaust system, snorkel head, oil catch can, clutch upgrade, full installation, and before-and-after dynamometer testing. For our vehicle, we opted for the Xtreme Outback X-Series Organic clutch kit, which is priced at $2147.04 through Australian Clutch Services.

The North Queensland Highway Patrol is warning 4WD owners that an increasingly popular 4×4 accessory is illegal on public roads, with reflective window coverings firmly in their sights.

“North Brisbane Highway Patrol would like to warn motorists about a growing trend among four-wheel drive (4WD) owners which is illegal and a danger to other road users,” the statement reads. “There has been an increased popularity of 4WD vehicle having reflective window coverings which comes with a hefty fine.”

At the centre of the crackdown is a broad road rule. Under Section 297(2) of the Transport Operations (Road Use Management – Road Rules) Regulation 2009, a driver must not operate a vehicle unless they have a clear view of the road and traffic ahead, behind and to both sides.

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“Not complying with this road rule attracts a $389 fine and risks the safety of vulnerable road users such as pedestrians and bicycle or scooter riders by drastically reducing vision,” the North Queensland Highway Patrol adds.

Reflective window coverings, along with mirror-style dash mats, significantly reduce visibility in certain light conditions, particularly early mornings, late afternoons and at night. Police also remind owners that no reflective material can be displayed on a vehicle at all, even if it’s marketed as a heat or glare reducer. Any breach can result in a defect notice, making the vehicle unroadworthy.

Tinted windscreens are another modification drawing attention. While side and rear window tint is legal within limits, any tint on the windscreen itself is illegal.

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For many 4WD owners, confusion may come from the blanket nature of the rule. Accessories are often sold openly as touring or comfort upgrades, and some don’t obviously block vision in everyday driving. However, the legislation doesn’t assess intent or appearance. If a fitting restricts visibility or uses reflective material, it fails the rule regardless of how minor it may seem.

“Don’t risk a fine or the safety of other road users, check your vehicle is compliant before you hit the road,” the statement says.

Last year, at the Australian 4WD and Adventure Show in Perth, police sparked outrage from the 4WD community after 11 vehicles were issued defect notices while parked at the event. The action was seen by many enthusiasts as a targeted enforcement rather than random checks, and it led to concerns about the increasing scrutiny of 4×4 modifications at public gatherings.

There are some things about a Toyota HiLux that you can just take at face value.

You know, for instance, that it’ll be pretty phenomenal off-road. It will tow 3500kg and cart around a tonne in the tub. It’ll be a bit tight inside (mainly the rear pew) but it will offset that with the practicality that is the dual-cab’s calling card. And the same should go for the new model released late last year, right?

The carried-over 2.8-litre turbo-diesel is a known quantity, to be sure, and since Toyota likewise cut-and-pasted many of the basics of the vehicle for this latest version, we kind of know everything there is to know. Or do we? See, websites like this one are very practiced at taking a new vehicle and hurling it into the mulga in the interests of science and consumer information. See what works; see what breaks.

But we also happen to know that, for many Australian families, the HiLux will be the main form of transport in the driveway throughout the year and will be called upon to do more or less everything a 4×4 could ever be reasonably asked to do. And that includes loading up and hitting the tarmac for the annual interstate journey (to satisfy those contractual family commitments) otherwise known as the Christmas road trip.

At which point the HiLux will either rise to the challenge on pure merit or perhaps come up a bit short thanks to the usual dual-cab compromises. And don’t be thinking this stuff isn’t important to would-be buyers: The glamorous off-roady stuff is fine, but the other 50 weeks of the year are where you really learn about a vehicle. And since Toyota sells better than 50,000 HiLuxes here every year, that’s a lot of schlepps to the supermarket and the school run. And Christmas road trips.

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Cargo and cabin compromises

First impressions are less than stellar. And that’s purely down to the fact that this version, the $63,990 SR5, doesn’t come with a tonneau cover of any sort (well, our test vehicle didn’t, anyway).

This means two things. Firstly, that you can’t legally place anything in the tub without securing it with ropes or straps (and half the supplied tie-down points are located too high on the tub sides to be truly useful. Also, how do you tie down a cake?). Secondly, even if the SR5 did come with a vinyl tonneau, it would be about as secure as an idiot’s password, so that rules out valuable stuff like laptop bags, nice luggage and anything else you can’t live without. The `sports bar’ in the tray also blocks access to the front corners of the tub and is, simply, a frippery too far.

The upshot is that all that stuff needs to go on the back-seat and suddenly, your five-metre-plus dual-cab is a two-seater. Oh, and if you have the typical amount of gear for a couple of weeks away, it’ll be pretty tight in there, ruling out the chance for the passenger to recline their seat and sleep while you listen to the cricket on the (digital) radio. The on-board complaints department will be busy. Ask me how I know.

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Driving, comfort and controls

The other constant annoyance is the driver-info interface. You might imagine that in 2026, setting a trip meter and checking it as you motor along would be a simple matter. A one-button job, even.

Nope. The HiLux demands that you (at rest) dial up the options you wish to see on each screen, and then display them one by one. You want to see Trip A as well as your average fuel economy? Bad luck. At least, I couldn’t arrange it in the 10 or so days I shared with the SR5 on the road. From memory, the new RAV4 has a much more logical, user-friendly interface and, hopefully, that will make it to the HiLux at the next facelift (hopefully sooner).

The rest of the interior with its Prado-themed layout is a better deal and there are some really thoughtful touches such as having a big, easy-to-find button for the stop-start function (which you’ll punch every time to avoid the rumblings of the 2.8 starting up at every green light) and the tyre-pressure monitoring system which includes the spare tyre. Not only does this mean it’s harder to ignore (or simply forget about) the condition of the spare, but also, that if you do have to fit it in the bush, you’ll still be able to monitor all four tyres in use.

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That legendary Toyota air-conditioning is also worth a shout, and the HiLux’s 22°C felt like 19°C of anybody else’s degrees. Less brilliant is the active cruise-control which (typically, and this isn’t just Toyota) leaves too big a gap between you and the car in front, inviting drongos to zip up the inside and slot in between, forcing you another spot back every time. And for some reason, the cruise would happily sit for kilometres on a flat road, showing one click slower than your preset speed. Beats me.

But, otherwise, the cruise in the HiLux has one good trick up its sleeve. Unlike most cars, the Toyota doesn’t cancel the cruise-control when you dip the clutch. So, instead of having to rush the 100km/h limit, shift into sixth and then hit the cruise button, you can re-engage the cruise in fifth gear, let the engine easily haul up to the set limit and then clutch it into sixth to maintain cruise altitude. Sounds small, but it’s a biggie.

In a cabin-access sense, there’s evidence that the ladder-on-frame construction method has its limitations. Those mainly refer to the small door openings which, since you have to use the side-steps to get over the seat bolster, means you also need to duck your head to get it inside with the rest of you. Okay, so I’m long in the body, but plenty of bigger blokes than me drive HiLuxes.

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Sticking with the ease of access thing, the bonnet misses out on gas rams, relying on the old-school manual strut. Who cares? Me and anybody else for whom a morning once-over of the engine bay is a habit formed over decades of road trips. The flipside is that the tailgate does get a pair of gas struts, making it easier to lift back into position.

The engine is utterly familiar, although the one thing that makes us wonder is why Toyota continues to offer a manual transmission such as the six-speed in our test ute. There’s nothing wrong with the clutch or shift action, but when you consider that an automatic is nicer in traffic, better for towing and often way better in the bush (particularly in sandy country) the buying proposition for the manual is getting pretty skinny. Throw in the fact that you lose 80Nm of torque compared with the auto, and we’ll take the self-shifting HiLux, thanks.

The ratios of the manual ’box seem pretty long and spread out, too. You won’t be taking off in second, but sixth is so tall that it’s not really viable below 100km/h and a level of vibration under load at sub-1500rpm is your reward for trying it. For all that, the engine is pretty much done by 3500rpm, so that leaves a fairly narrow rev band to use if you’re going to keep the engine happy. Overtaking on the highway? Back to fifth for best results.

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But we can tell you that the manual ’box doesn’t harm fuel economy in any meaningful way, and across 3500km, around 90 per cent of which was on highways at the posted limit (thank you NSW’s double-demerit welcome gift) we recorded a pretty handy 7.9L/100km average. You’d take that any day.

Of course, some things never change (especially when you don’t re-engineer them) and the HiLux faithfully follows generations of dual-cab tradition by being a bit ornery on rough roads at speed. The shameful state of this country’s roads right now means there’s an endless supply of opportunities to test this, and it remains that the plush-factor goes downhill fast when lightly laden and storming across pock-marked bitumen. Faster, bumpy corners can also produce a bit of a sideways shimmy, too, and while it’s never as bad as the live-axle shuffle of older designs, the HiLux always needs a hand on the wheel in such situations.

Naturally, the HiLux features the latest driver aids which, thankfully, weren’t required on this journey. But it remains that the lane-keeping assistance seems a bit keen to push the car to either side depending on what it’s seen (a white line on the road and not the semi coming the other way, usually). And the self-braking function that operates when you’re reversing seems half-baked when confronted by something as perilous as an untrimmed bush lining the driveway.

Verdict

As a means of getting you safely around in a transport-module kind of way, the HiLux is still one of the better dual-cabs.

Okay, it doesn’t represent a huge leap forward technically, and we’re on the side of the commentators who say the 2026 model is a facelift rather than a new model. But 3500km up and down the eastern seaboard in rush hour proves the point that the Toyota can still cut it. Which means it still remains to see who (other than the Ford Ranger) is going to catch up first.

2026 Toyota HiLux pricing

A rooftop tent only really proves itself when it’s used properly – not for a quick overnight stop in a caravan park, but over days on the road where camp becomes home.

The Alu-Cab Gen 3-R did exactly that on a trip that took us from dusty outback pubs along the Darling River, through New Year’s Eve at Sandstone Point, and into full beach-camping mode on Fraser Island.

By the time we hit the sand and set up camp for three nights, the novelty of new gear had worn off, which is exactly when the Gen 3-R Expedition started to shine. Warm nights, crashing waves, a full moon lighting up the beach, and early mornings chasing tides. Setup took seconds. Pack-down was painless. No wrestling canvas, no swearing at zips, and no worrying about pinched fabric before jumping back behind the wheel. That’s when it clicked: this is the best rooftop tent I’ve ever used.

For context, 12 months ago I travelled around Australia with a rooftop tent, and I can say with confidence that the Gen 3-R would have fundamentally changed that experience – in all the right ways.

One of the biggest unsung heroes is the space between the canvas and the shell. It sounds minor, but it makes it almost impossible to pinch canvas during pack-down – something you’ll deeply appreciate if you’ve ever owned an RTT before. When you’re setting up and packing down every day, those small design decisions matter more than flashy features.

At camp, the tent quickly became the best seat in the house. Opened up to the ocean breeze, it wasn’t just somewhere to sleep – it was where we escaped the midday heat, planned routes, watched storms roll past, and actually relaxed.

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Comfort that stands out

The Gen 3-R isn’t trying to reinvent the rooftop tent; it’s refining it.

The aluminium hard shell feels genuinely expedition-ready without being overbuilt, and the gas-strut-assisted pop-up design is quick enough that you stop thinking about setup altogether. But where it really separates itself is inside.

The reclining backrest is hands-down the standout feature. Being able to level your bed without moving the vehicle, especially on sand, feels borderline indulgent. Once you’ve used it, you’ll wonder why more tents don’t offer something similar. Add the fold-down internal table and the tent suddenly becomes a usable living and working space. Watching movies on a rainy afternoon, working on photos, eating dinner or playing cards all feels natural rather than forced.

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The canvas is another highlight. It’s thick, confidence-inspiring and feels superior to many tents on the market. Combined with the large windows, airflow is excellent, even on warm coastal nights. This is a tent you can comfortably spend time in, not just sleep inside.

The mattress is firm, and that will divide opinion. Some users will want to add a topper. Personally, I found it supportive and far better than softer RTT mattresses that tend to hold moisture. Waking up without that clammy feeling after a humid night is something you don’t fully appreciate until it’s gone.

At around 1200 to 1300mm of internal width, it can feel snug for some couples. That said, the comfort features, build quality and ease of use more than compensate. It’s also worth noting the tent looks far better than earlier Alu-Cab designs – lower, sleeker and more refined on the roof – and we were able to carry two sleeping bags and two pillows inside while driving without any issues.

Power, problems and competitors

Power integration is another area where the Gen 3-R largely nails it. Built-in 12V power and pre-wired solar cabling make setup ridiculously easy. There’s no need to run wires through windows or drill holes – it’s ready to go straight out of the box, which is exactly how touring gear should be. That said, there’s still room for improvement. I’d love to see:

• A 12V cigarette socket
• Additional USB-A and USB-C ports
• Rubber-covered plugs instead of the sliding door
• A voltmeter
• An amber light option for night use

The biggest issue internally was the sliding cover over the USB-C ports. I spent a good five minutes trying to keep the door open with one hand while lining up the cable with the other. It’s not a deal-breaker, but addressing it would elevate an already strong system.

Then there’s the telescopic ladder – the Gen 3-R’s biggest downside. On taller vehicles it’s awkward to hook on, and the locking system feels unnecessarily complicated. It works, but it can be frustrating, especially after a long day on the road or a few cold beers. The only real upside? No squeaking. If you’ve owned RTT ladders before, you’ll know that’s not nothing. Adjustable ladder mounting positions would solve most of the frustration here, and we often found ourselves simply resting the ladder on the spare tyre.

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How it compares

There’s no ignoring the elephant in the room: the only other rooftop tent that genuinely comes close is the Bush Company unit. Build quality, canvas and durability are right up there, making it a serious bit of gear. Where Alu-Cab pulls ahead is in accessories and ecosystem. The Gen 3-R’s reclining backrest, fold-down table, integrated power and modular add-ons make it feel more complete as a touring solution. If you plan on living out of your tent rather than just sleeping in it, Alu-Cab takes the win.

Our verdict

The Alu-Cab Gen 3-R isn’t perfect, but it’s close.

The ladder design and power socket layout could be improved, but in real-world touring use it’s one of the most enjoyable rooftop tents you can buy. It made beach camping easier, long trips more comfortable and downtime something to genuinely look forward to – and that’s the real test.

If Alu-Cab offered larger size options and addressed the minor shortcomings, there would be virtually no competition in this category.

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Specs

Pricing

• Rooftop tent: $6649.01
• Backrest: $629
• Interior roof drop down table: $849

Buying a used 4×4 ute still makes sense in 2026, but the landscape has shifted.

New-car pricing remains high, budget-brand utes have expanded the market and late-model used examples are holding their value tighter than ever. Whether you’re chasing a workhorse, a touring base or a tow rig, knowing where the value sits is key.

This guide looks at what’s worth buying, what to watch for, and how the used ute market stacks up right now.

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The used 4×4 ute market in 2026

The big names haven’t changed. The Toyota HiLux and Ford Ranger still dominate sales and the used market. That’s good news, as it means more choice, more spec levels and a wider spread of prices.

The D-MAX continues to punch above its weight for reliability and value, while older Triton, BT-50 and Navara models remain popular alternatives.

A difference today compared to earlier this decade is the rise of new, cheaper utes. Models like the GWM Cannon, LDV T60, JAC T9 and Foton Tunland mean some buyers are weighing a brand-new budget ute against a five-to-eight-year-old mainstream option. That has pushed older-stock prices down slightly, but clean, well-maintained examples still command solid money.

What matters most when buying used

• Service history beats kilometres: A high-kilometre ute that has been serviced on time is usually a safer bet than a low-kilometre example with gaps in the books. Look for regular oil changes, documented major services and receipts for known wear items.
• A Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR) check is essential: It reveals if the vehicle has finance owing, has been written off, or has a history of flood or other damage.
• Check underneath: Chassis rails, crossmembers, suspension mounts and diffs tell the real story. Rust, oil leaks and bent components are far more important than faded paint or worn seats.
• Test-drive properly: Drive at highway speeds, over rough surfaces and in traffic. Listen for driveline noise, gearbox hesitation and suspension clunks. Utes that have been towing hard or worked off-road can reveal themselves here.
• Inspect modifications carefully: Quality accessories can add value, but poor installations create expensive problems. Check wiring, mounting points and engineering compliance for suspension or GVM upgrades.

The best used 4×4 utes right now

Toyota HiLux

It’s hard to argue with the HiLux. It’s reliable, tough and backed by a parts network that stretches across the country. Late-model examples still command a premium, particularly if they have a full service history. That premium isn’t just brand hype, as a well-maintained HiLux will keep going where others falter. Its reputation for longevity and versatility makes it the benchmark against which most other utes are judged.

• Look for: GXL or SR5

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Ford Ranger

The Ranger continues to dominate Australian sales and the used market. It appeals to a broad range of buyers, from workhorse users to those chasing high-spec comfort and features. Its versatility and strong reputation make it a safe choice for many, and it’s widely regarded as a capable all-rounder that handles work, touring and towing with ease. Its popularity means there’s plenty of choice in the used market, and that breadth of options helps buyers find a Ranger to suit their budget and needs.

• Look for: XLT or Wildtrak

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Isuzu D‑MAX

The D-MAX doesn’t carry the same mainstream hype as the HiLux or Ranger, but it consistently earns respect from those who use it. It’s seen as practical, durable and capable, with a reputation for solid performance across work and touring applications. Often undervalued in the used market, it can deliver similar capability to its more popular rivals at a competitive price, making it a sensible pick for buyers who prioritise functionality and value.

• Look for: LS-M or LS-U

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Mazda BT‑50

The BT‑50 shares a lot of its underpinnings with other mainstream utes but adds a touch of refinement, especially inside the cabin. It’s comfortable on long drives, easy to live with and capable in a variety of conditions. Often priced slightly below equivalent Rangers or Hiluxes, it appeals to buyers looking for a balance between comfort, capability and affordability. Its understated reputation makes it a solid choice for those who want a dependable, well-rounded ute.

• Look for: XTR

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Mitsubishi Triton

The Triton has earned a reputation as a solid, affordable option for work and everyday use. It’s easy to live with, offers good ride comfort and is regarded as a practical, capable ute for buyers looking for value. Its positioning in the market appeals to those who want a well-equipped and reliable dual-cab without paying top-tier prices, making it a popular choice among budget-conscious buyers.

• Look for: GLS or Exceed

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Nissan Navara

The Navara sits just behind the HiLux and Ranger in popularity but punches above its weight for comfort and capability. It’s widely regarded as a roomy and well-finished option that handles work, towing and touring with confidence. Often overlooked in the used market, the Navara offers competitive pricing and strong value, making it an appealing choice for buyers looking for comfort, practicality and versatility without paying a premium for brand reputation alone.

• Look for: ST-X or PRO-4X (even better if it’s a Warrior)

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Budget, niche and newer entrants

Outside the big names, there’s a growing selection of budget-friendly or less conventional utes that have made their way into the used market. Models like the GWM Cannon, LDV T60, and KGM Musso are worth considering, particularly if you want something relatively new with warranty still in place. They’re not as proven as mainstream brands, but they often offer modern features and a lower entry price. For buyers willing to compromise on brand prestige, these alternatives can represent good value, especially for light commercial use, touring setups or first-time 4×4 buyers.

Indicative used 4×4 ute prices in 2026 

Top 5 common buyer mistakes

1. Choosing low kilometres over service history
2. Skipping inspections to save time
3. Paying for accessories without checking quality
4. Comparing utes to passenger cars – 4×4 utes hold value differently
5. Ignoring PPSR checks – it can reveal finance, write-offs or flood damage

Bottom line

A used 4×4 ute can still be a smart buy, but the key is picking the right example. Well-maintained, low-km utes still hold value, while rough or poorly serviced vehicles are harder to justify at today’s prices. Take the time to check the details, and buy on condition, not just reputation.

For most of us who enjoy camping and four-wheel drive touring, it’s essential to have a portable fridge.

To keep the fridge running while the vehicle is parked, you need plenty of reserve battery power. However, for many people, adequate electrical capacity is not just a convenience that helps keep your beer and food cool. It is also an essential requirement for work as it powers equipment such as safety lights and radios when a vehicle is stationary.

So a dual battery system is a must. There are a few ways the second battery can be wired into the vehicle, depending on its intended use and the system flexibility required. But no matter what, the second battery must be installed and wired – in the engine bay, the passenger compartment or load area – so that it can be isolated and doesn’t flatten the vehicle’s starter battery.

The final requirement of a dual battery system is for the second (or accessory) battery to be easily charged by the vehicle when you’re driving or the engine is running. This will ensure it’s charged and eady to use when you arrive at the next campsite or job.

JUMP AHEAD

• Installing a second battery
• What battery does what?
• Keeping them charged
• Automatic solenoid switching
• Manual four-way switching
• Electronic battery management systems
• Taking charge
• Portable battery packs
• Dual battery systems tested

Installing a second battery

Most vehicles are built with one battery, so installing a second battery to power requires extra hardware – this usually includes a strong fabricated steel tray fitted in the vehicle’s engine bay.

To carry 15kg (or more) of battery in tough off-road conditions, the tray must be heavy-duty to prevent vibrations – especially vibrations that come via corrugations – from destroying it.

Many Aussie equipment manufacturers such as ARB, TJM, and Piranha design and manufacture trays for popular 4x4s. These companies have extensive experience, and they make tough and durable products that place the battery’s weight into strong sections of the vehicle body shell to reduce the chance of sheet metal cracking or tearing. Most will use factory-provided installation points and several stays to provide plenty of stability and support.

However, many vehicles – especially more recent models – don’t have spare room in the engine bay, so the second battery must be located elsewhere in the vehicle, such as in or under a load tray or in the passenger compartment. This means you need to pay extra attention to the wiring and battery type chosen.

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The fitment of an accessory battery tray can often be achieved by a competent handyman, although vehicle components – such as a power steering reservoir or an air-conditioner pipe – may require tweaking or relocation to provide space for a second battery tray.

No matter what, batteries hate heat, so batteries should be installed as far away as possible from hot engine components; preferably on the cold side of the engine, opposite the exhaust.

No vehicle will endure a 15kg battery hanging from an inner mudguard with two small bolts or screws. Fasteners must be adequately sized and have large washers to spread the load across the panel work (such as an inner guard). You should also regularly inspect the area for cracks or loosening. Damage of this type, usually resulting from cheap, poor quality products have wrecked many outback treks.

What battery does what?

In most dual-battery installations, the second battery’s task is to power the accessories (such as fridges), and it’s for this reason that a deep-cycle or dual-purpose battery is often installed.

The vehicle’s starting battery and its wiring remain largely unmodified for starting and powering the vehicle and its equipment (such as radios and interior lights), while the second battery happily powers the fridge when the vehicle is parked.

Because of the lack of space in some engine bays, the second battery may have to be physically smaller than the vehicle’s original – too small to be useful for powering a fridge.

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The genuine accessory dual battery system for the Mazda BT-50 mounts the auxilliary battery in the tray and uses a Redarc solenoid in the engine bay for charging managment.

Situations like this require some lateral thinking from the installer or operator; the aftermarket battery tray may need to be configured to carry a small back-up/ starting battery, with the vehicle’s original battery (or a replacement dual-purpose/deepcycle battery installed on the original tray) powering the fridge.

Vehicles with factory-fit twin batteries – such as many diesel Land Cruisers, Prados and later D22 Nissans – can be easily re-configured to have a starter and accessory battery, too, rather than twin starters. Some people wrongly believe they’re looking at a factory-fitted, trek-ready dual-battery system when they lift the bonnet of these vehicles. They’re not. But the original wiring of these vehicles can usually be easily reconfigured to accommodate a proper dual-battery system.

Many vehicles’ standard battery positions will house a larger-than-standard battery. Kilo for kilo, a larger lead-acid battery will provide power for longer than a smaller one, and a vehicle’s factory battery location is often stronger than even the best aftermarket tray.

Keeping them charged

At its simplest, a second battery can be wired into the vehicle with some appropriately sized wire (and a circuit breaker or fuse for safety) and a simple high-amperage on/off switch.

This allows the second battery to be charged while you’re driving, and disconnected (isolated) when it’s time to set up camp and operate the fridge and camp lights – without running the vehicle’s main battery flat. The next day, after the vehicle is started, the switch connects the second battery to the vehicle’s electrical system, allowing it to be charged from the alternator. This provides a dead-set simple and reliable way of doing things and has worked for generations of outback travellers.

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But there are drawbacks to this method, the biggest being its susceptibility to operator error: the driver needs to remember to flick the switch to either isolate or charge the accessory battery. That’s no biggie if you have the discipline to lift the bonnet to check oil and fluid levels each morning – as you should!

Another drawback is that the entertainment system and interior lights continue to operate from the main battery, which exposes it to the risk of being run flat with excess or careless use.

Automatic solenoid switching

Wired to the vehicle’s ignition system, a solenoid will automatically disconnect the accessory battery when the ignition is turned off.

It reconnects the second battery to the vehicle’s main battery (to allow charging) when the engine is running. This way, you don’t need to remember to switch-out the accessory battery at each stop-over, and you won’t risk flattening both batteries.

4×4-grade solenoids generally have higher-amperage wiring to the second battery (often of a similar size to the vehicle’s starter cables – in fact, many solenoids used for dual-battery tasks are the same tech as some older-vehicle starting solenoids), so there’s little risk of frying wires. The second battery can be used to jumpstart the vehicle, if required, by overriding the solenoid.

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One minor drawback of this system – at its most simple – is the accessory battery is switched on whenever the ignition is on, including during engine cranking, and this may allow a seriously flat accessory battery to pull down voltages at the ignition coil or engine control unit to a level below the point at which they can fire the motor.

One way around this problem is to wire the solenoid to the generator light circuit (or a simple electronic timer circuit), so that it doesn’t connect the accessory battery – and therefore pull down system voltage – until after the engine has come to life.

Manual four-way switching

A four-way switch allows the vehicle’s first or second battery to perform either of two roles: starting the vehicle, or powering equipment while totally isolating the other battery. That’s great if at camp you wish to operate your vehicle’s radio or other accessories, without risking flattening both batteries.

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As with the simple switch system, this full-manual system relies on the driver. But it offers the extra flexibility of allowing the fridge and other accessories to be operated with just one battery in the vehicle – not always possible with other layouts – which means part-time travellers don’t have to lumber around town all year with a battery doing nothing on board.

Rotating the switch to the position where the batteries are connected (1+2 or A+B) allows both batteries to be charged. This paralleling of the batteries also provides plenty of grunt for operating a winch – an important consideration for many people.

Electronic battery management systems

Electronic battery management systems have been available for a while, with varying levels of sophistication and flexibility. All provide automatic isolation and charging of the accessory battery – in that regard, they operate like a simple solenoid or relay. Some of these systems claim priority charging of the vehicle starting battery.

However, this is often not true for all systems. Instead, the second battery remains switched-out until the system voltage exceeds a pre-set level; usually just after the vehicle fires into life and the alternator pushes system voltage above 14V.

Some electronic battery management systems provide extra useable power capacity at camp by allowing the accessories to be powered from the vehicle starting battery for a while before automatically switching to the second/ accessory battery when the starting battery reaches a partially discharged but safe-for-starting level.

As previously mentioned, vehicle equipment such as entertainment systems, interior lights and central locking continue to be powered by the vehicle’s own battery, so accessory battery isolation won’t prevent these accessories from draining your vehicle’s main battery.

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The adoption by most vehicle manufacturers of variable voltage charging (to help vehicle emission targets) in the past decade means that a little black box is almost essential for second battery charging. That’s because, for a variety of reasons, a second battery usually can’t be effectively charged by simple ‘old-school’ linking in parallel with the vehicle’s main battery.

Batteries in caravans and camper trailers may also need electronic assistance. Their distance from the charge source means actual voltage available (which reduces over distance, like water pressure does in a long garden hose) may be too low to effectively charge the batteries for best performance or life.

As all batteries rely on the push of a higher voltage (typically 14-14.4V from a vehicle alternator) to be charged, these batteries may suffer at the end of a long cable run, requiring the step-up – and constant – voltage that’s provided by a DC/DC charger.

Taking charge

No matter what system is being used, charging time and rate needs to be factored into the setting-up of a 4×4 vehicle or camper/caravan battery bank. Batteries take time to charge and don’t charge in a linear manner.

A well-depleted (flat) battery will accept lots of current at first but far less current as it approaches full charge. Think of the 80/20 guideline – a battery will be 80 per cent charged in 20 per cent of the time it takes to be fully charged. The last 20 per cent of battery capacity takes a lot longer to achieve.

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The typical touring day of six to eight hours’ driving (and therefore charging) time may not be enough to fully charge a depleted battery bank. Having plenty of charging capacity – for example, a 200A alternator in your vehicle – will not charge things any quicker than an 80A unit if the battery (or batteries) only takes 40A.

A trick to reduce charging time is to use multiple smaller-capacity batteries in parallel. They will charge in less time (of course, while drawing more current) than one large battery of the same capacity (e.g. two 50AH batteries versus one 100AH).

When relying on accessory power in remote areas, this is an important consideration, as is the fact that multiple batteries can be separated due to damage, or loaned for other uses – getting a stranded vehicle running, for example.

Portable battery packs

Portable battery packs are another way of powering accessories. Many vehicles simply aren’t used often enough for touring to justify a permanently installed accessory battery, or they have insufficient room under the bonnet for a traditional second battery installation.

Portable power packs are available in several shapes and sizes (and, of course, levels of quality). The better ones exceed the performance of a vehicle-mounted accessory battery, but in a relatively easy-to-move package that can be removed from the vehicle (or used elsewhere) when it’s not required.

That way, you can keep a fridge running at camp while you’re out exploring in your 4×4, or you (and your mates) can use them in other vehicles. They are also handy around the home or garage.

Dual battery systems tested

We tested a range of management systems, mounts and batteries that won’t leave you in the middle of the outback with a slab of warm coldies.

The principle behind a management system is that it charges an auxiliary battery when power is available and disconnects, or ‘unlinks’, when voltage reaches a predetermined level to avoid killing your main cell. Options are full manual, voltage-sensitive relays (VSR) and programmed relays.

Regarding batteries, the most common are flooded lead-acid (wet), absorbent glass mat (AGM), and lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4). The former two are available in standard or deep cycle. Deep cycles are generally used as auxiliaries, as conventional batteries can be damaged if fully discharged.

Lithium offers premium performance but at significant cost and should not be mounted in an engine compartment. Regardless of type, a battery needs proper care to maximise its lifespan.

Our install platforms were a 2015 JK and Gen III Toyota Tacoma, and we selected systems from National Luna, TJM’s Intelligent Battery Systems (IBS), Redarc, CTEK, and Blue Sea. Mounting trays are from Mountain Off-Road Enterprises and Off-Grid Engineering which offer turnkey systems.

When the nearest roadhouse is 200 kilometres away, you can’t cut corners under the bonnet when it comes to battery selection. For this review we sourced cells from Odyssey (Extreme Series) and Optima (Red Top and Yellow Top deep cycle). While a few management systems are nearly bolt-in, some require a more technical hand.

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To evaluate each in a controlled environment, we set up a bench test. Current was supplied by an MCP DC power supply, and load was provided via a 2000-watt inverter powering an ARB fridge-freezer, AC battery charger set to 6amp output, and our photo studio lighting. Voltage and amperage, along with solar input, were recorded with a Powerwerx DC power analyser.

Each system was run for several hours to experience multiple charge/discharge cycles while we evaluated its attributes: link/unlink voltage, over and undercurrent cutoff, under/overcurrent alarms, etc. Goal Zero solar panels provided power to units that accommodated wind or solar, and proper function was confirmed.

Other considerations were manual-link options, single-battery function, IP ratings (moisture and contaminant intrusion), completeness of kit, available accessories, ease of operation, and quality of instructions.

Newer vehicles have variable-output alternators (VOA) which reduce voltage based on a variety of conditions to reduce parasitic drag on the engine. Two systems reviewed accommodate this technology.

Lastly, winches can draw significant amperage during heavy pulls, and a single battery and alternator will not keep up with demand. With the exception of one system, an old-school manual switch would be required to draw this level of current from both banks. Without further ado, we present some of the best dual-battery systems on the market … we hope you get a charge out of them.

Redarc BCDC1225D charger

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Redarc has 40 years of experience providing mobile electrical components for the Australian outback. The award-winning BCD1225D offers an array of advanced options including multi-phase charging algorithms and solar/wind input compatibility, and it plays well with VOAs. It is sold à la carte, so you’ll need to source cable, lugs, fuse kits and hardware. We added their remote in-cab dual-voltage gauge.

During installation we wired it for profile ‘A’, specific to AGM batteries. Each algorithm has a defined charge cycle (boost, absorption and float) to ensure maximum service from your batteries. A ‘test mode’ evaluates input/output levels and presence of an auxiliary battery, and error codes are identified via a series of LED lights.

The BCDC1225D features an MPPT regulator and leads for solar input, and their unique Green Power Priority directs that energy to the house battery before charging the main. It can be mounted in the engine bay or on the chassis, but should be kept away from high-heat sources, as its thermal protection kicks in at 79.5C.

Unfortunately, its 25amp capacity does not allow jumping a dead start battery and there is no manual link. We would suggest an auxiliary Perko-style switch to connect both batteries for winching or jumping the main.

Instructions are excellent but set-up is a bit technical, and if you have a VOA you will need to locate your ignition circuit. During testing the BDC1225D performed flawlessly; it kept both batteries healthy and Green Power Priority managed solar input as intended. When the dust settled, the Redarc headed home with our High-Tech Award.

CTEK D250SE and Smartpass 120S

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The CTEK D250SE also lands in the high-tech category. It will service an auxiliary bank up to 300amp/h and all 12-volt battery types. There are separate charging algorithms for AGM and lithium cells, and selection is made during the installation of wiring.

It efficiently manages solar input via an internal MPPT regulator, and when the auxiliary bank is topped off power is directed to the primary battery. A unique feature of the D250SE is its thermal sensor, which signals the mother ship if temperatures reach damaging levels. It is IP65 rated for dust and water protection. The 20amp maximum does not accommodate a manual link for jump starting, but combined with CTEK’s Smartpass 120S capacity rises to 140amp.

Installation in our 2018 Tacoma was simple, and the instruction booklet is excellent. These units mount side-by-side, so you’ll need to confirm you have the real estate available. We opted for the 250SE and will add the Smartpass if needed.

In the lab, the 250SE worked as intended, directing current from our solar panels to the house bank, then the start battery. This is a well-thought-out system and was in the running for the High-Tech award, falling short only due to its operating temperature limitations.

Intelligent Battery Systems IBS-DBS EM

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IBS (Intelligent Battery Systems) was formed in 1996 after its founder Beat Wyss became stranded in Western Australia with a flat battery. Returning to Switzerland he developed the DBS, or Dual Battery System. This is a comprehensive kit, and includes all components needed for installation: solenoid, battery terminals, control panel, harness and cables.

This system allows for full control of functions, as well as monitoring battery voltages levels, from the driver’s seat. The bi-directional relay automatically closes the circuit when the main bank reaches 13.1 volts and opens at about 12.5 volts (as tested).

It allows single-battery operation via its ‘trailer recognition’ feature, has an audible over/under current alarm, and is compatible with all 12-volt cells – though it must be pre-programmed for LiFePO4s. Vehicles with VOAs will require their Mini ATO compensator or IBS’s new Dual Battery Manager.

Manual link-start is accessed from the control panel, and with a 200amp capacity (500amp surge) it will easily jump your main and assist with moderate winch loads. Mounting location should not be subjected to submersion, as this unit is not waterproof. On the bench, everything functioned as prescribed, installation was painless and instructions clear. This is a very functional product at an affordable price, and thus receives our Best Buy Award.

National Luna Battery Manager

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National Luna (NL) originally developed power options for solar-powered vaccine refrigerators for remote regions of Africa. The application was perfect for the overland crowd and NL has become a household name.

Similar to the IBS, it is a split charging system, all functions are monitored via a dash-mounted panel, and it does not accommodate variable output alternators. This is a comprehensive kit and includes everything needed for installation: terminals, lugs, fuses, hardware, harnesses and cables.

Shortly after startup the solenoid links both banks, and they stay linked until voltage drops below 12.7 volts, specifically after the engine is off and accessories are running. A dragstrip-style LED Christmas tree on the monitor keeps the user apprised of voltage levels and if there is a problem.

The ‘set’ and ‘on’ buttons perform several functions, including a timer override and manual linking. You can jump the main battery from the house unit if needed, but due to its 100amp fuse it is suggested you let charge levels equalize for a few minutes first. Also, if the auxiliary battery is removed the system will throw an error code unless you disconnect a ground wire.

Instructions are thorough and set-up was easy, but with an IP40 rating it should not be subjected to excessive water. Bench evaluation revealed flawless operation with the exception of the 11.4-volt failure alarm, which we did not test.

This is a nice kit and was easily in the running for our Best Buy Award, but its 85amp continuous-operation limit (400amp surge) held it back.

Off-Grid Engeering Mount and Blue Sea ML-ACR

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We first viewed Off-Grid’s dual-battery system at an off-road event and were immediately impressed with the beautiful CNC-milled aluminium mounting bracket.

This comprehensive kit includes hardware, a plug-n-play braided harness, terminal ends, pre-cut cables, and Blue Sea ML-ACR isolator. Blue Sea, purveyors of battery management systems for the marine industry, has earned a stellar reputation and their products have made a natural crossover to overland applications.

The ML-ACR lacks fancy LED arrays, but it gets the job done with simplicity and rugged components. After starting the engine, the magnetic-latching relay links batteries when voltage reaches 13.5, then ‘unlatches’ if voltage drops to 12.75 for more than 30 seconds. If any battery exceeds 16.2 or drops below 9.6 volts, the system enters lockout mode to protect components.

Its 500amp capacity and manual link easily accommodate jump starting and extended winching operations. From the dash-mounted toggle you can manually link batteries, isolate banks or turn the system off, and a dial on the base unit allows you to latch or lockout the system. Its IP66 rating is best-in-class and it performed flawlessly in the lab.

Installing the mount required fabricating a riser plate, which we did, but they say their new design will be bolt-in.

The ML-ACR does not accommodate VOAs, so we substituted the Redarc on the Tacoma. But for non-VOA vehicles, the ML-ACR is one tough unit with the fortitude to take a beating. FYI, its new home will be on my ’82 Hilux.

Mountain Off-Road Jeep JK mount

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If you only need a dual-battery tray, Mountain Off-Road offers a high-quality option for 2007-and-up Jeep JKs. Crafted from powder-coated 1/8-inch plate steel, it incorporates the OE attachment points and accommodates two Group 34 batteries.

Article originally published in 2023

For day-to-day personal use, a work boot holder isn’t something I need all that often. I’m not climbing in and out of muddy job sites every day, and more often than not my boots end up living near the tray or the back of the ute anyway.

That said, in our line of work driving media, press cars and review vehicles, these make a lot of sense. Keeping press cars clean is non-negotiable. Mud, dust, oil or whatever you’ve just walked through has no place on carpet, seats or trim that isn’t yours. That’s where the Clean Cab Co boot holders earn their keep.

They give dirty boots a proper home, keep the cab tidy, and stop grime spreading everywhere between shoots, trips and vehicle handovers. From a fitment point of view, they’re sized to suit most common work boots, accommodating up to a US men’s size 12 steel-capped boot. Overall dimensions are 370mm long, 270mm wide and 130mm high, so they’re compact enough for in-cab use, but it’s still worth measuring your available space before buying – particularly in dual cabs or tighter rear footwells.

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Build quality is spot on. The holders feel properly well made, with solid materials, tidy finishes and a design that looks capable of copping long-term abuse. It’s obvious that real thought has gone into not just the product itself, but how it’s presented and delivered.

Where the value really stacks up is for smaller businesses, tradies, fleet operators or anyone trying to get maximum life out of their vehicles and gear. If you’re running work utes, rotating drivers, or trying to keep things professional and presentable, this sort of setup makes genuine sense.

It won’t be essential for everyone, but it’s a smart, well-executed solution for people who actually use their vehicles hard and care about keeping the cab clean and organised.

An honest product that is built properly and targeted at the right audience.

Pricing

• Boot Box: $200
• Boot Box bundle: $250 (comes with air fresheners, bucket keychain, lanyard and boot removal sticker)