For decades many have referred to Fraser Island as paradise, which coincidentally is the meaning of the island’s original Aboriginal name K’gari, which it has recently re-adopted.
K’gari is the world’s largest sand island, and is made of 113 cubic kilometres of the stuff. Much more than just sand, however, K’gari also boasts rainforests, wildlife, 1000 year old trees and more than 865 species of plants.
This incredible island paradise was UNESCO World Heritage Listed in 1992, and virtually the entire island can be explored with a well-equipped four-wheel drive vehicle.
Always on the lookout to include family, Katie and I meet up with my Uncle Ron, and together we load up on all the supplies we can carry in nearby Hervey Bay. We have 10 days on K’gari ahead of us, including a criss-crossing route from south to north with the aim of visiting all the highlights and out-of-the-way corners the island has to offer.
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Ferry to paradise
K’gari sits barely a kilometre off the mainland, and multiple barges and ferries regularly make the crossing, transporting an armada of 4x4s and their grinning drivers.
Many of the decked-out vehicles could easily be on the cover of a magazine, and they’re all packed to the brim, ready for adventure.
The excitement is palpable as we join the line up of vehicles before reversing onto the ferry. Loading the ferry in reverse means we’re lined up to drive straight out on arrival, which makes life much easier. The crossing takes barely 20 minutes, and we are quickly off the ferry and onto the island.
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Driving on an island entirely made of sand means we need to air down to 16psi all around.
At these pressures the contact patch is increased enormously and will provide plenty of grip in the soft sand. It’s reassuring to know we can still go a lot lower if the need arises but for now we’ll walk the line between traction, fuel consumption and speed.
While crossing the island I’m impressed to see enormous eucalyptus trees forming a dense jungle that allows very little light to penetrate to the forest floor.
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Tracks are rutted sand criss-crossed with tree roots, washouts and rubber matting designed to prevent further erosion.
We arrive on the far eastern side of the island during a rising tide, almost the worst possible time to start our first beach drive. We must drive a few kilometres south to our first of many beach campsites, and we’re all on edge as we race the incoming tide.
Thankfully we make it through with only one small splash of salt water, and we’re elated to see we have our pick of the sites tucked in behind the dunes – there’s not another living soul in sight.
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Paradise on Earth
From top to bottom, K’gari is dotted with spectacular places to visit, each of which are a worthy destination in their own right.
After just our first night camping behind the dunes I wonder if 10 days will be enough to see everything we want to see, and so to squeeze the most out of every day we rise before the sun and don’t crawl into bed until long after sunset.
The aptly named 75 Mile Beach runs along most of the east coast of the island, and is designated a main road complete with speed limits and police radar. The sand road is so consistently good it is also used as a runway for light planes, which makes for some interesting decision making while navigating its length.
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It’s not often I have to also concentrate on the sky while driving.
Halfway along the east coast of the island we stop at the famous wreck of the luxury passenger ship, the SS Maheno. In 1935 the ship was caught in a strong cyclone about 80km off the coast of Queensland while being towed to a scrapyard. The ship became beached on the east coast of the island where it has remained ever since, slowly rusting away in the corrosive saltwater.
Swimming in the ocean off K’gari is ill-advised due to the toothy locals and massive swell, but thankfully mother nature has provided the perfect alternative to combat the intense Australian sun. A series of inland lakes boast white-sand beaches and crystal clear water, and are the ideal places to spend time during the heat of the day.
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Just north of the Maheno wreck on the east coast, Eli Creek flows into the ocean and provides not only a refreshing swimming hole, but also hours of entertainment for the whole family.
The crystal clear creek flows at a rate of 80 million litres per day, which provides plenty of flowing water allowing you to drift downstream on just about any kind of inflatable or pool noodle.
Cutting across the island to the west coast we arrive at the breathtaking Awinya Creek camping area where paradise is elevated to a whole new level. With white sand stretching to the horizon, and sunset painting the sky and sand every shade of red, orange and yellow that can be imagined, we’re more than happy with our plan to camp here for consecutive nights.
At sunrise Katie and I hike inland to an enormous sand blow, a unique natural feature created by strong winds that endlessly blow sand inland where it accumulates into huge pristine sand dunes.
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In a constant battle with vegetation these dunes grow and shrink each year, shifting with the wind. It takes us almost an hour to walk up just a small part of the sand blow, and we’re staggered by the size of the enormous dunes.
Back on the east coast we continue north, rounding Indian Head for a visit to Champagne Pools. This series of natural rock pools provide a sheltered swimming area in the otherwise unforgiving ocean. When the tides are timed just right, the largest waves crash over the rocks into the swimming pools in spectacular fashion, creating plenty of foam and excitement for those swimming in relative safety.
Each night we tuck in behind the dunes to camp, and each and every night we are alone, with just the sound of the crashing waves to lull us into a deep sleep.
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Ngkala Rocks
Carefully studying tide tables, we arrive bright and early at the infamous Ngkala Rocks, one of Australia’s most notorious 4×4 obstacles. Immediately we are greeted by a scene of carnage.
A group of young guys are standing around looking sheepish while they wait for a very expensive tow truck. It takes a good deal of coaxing to get the story out of them, which finally comes out in a flood. Using a huge amount of right foot through the rocks, one of the drivers managed to tear a front wheel and hub off his HiLux, completely blocking the narrow rock canyon.
With no better option they used the other vehicles to drag it through the rocks, folding the wheel underneath and ripping the tyre off the now severely battered and scarred rim.
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The tow truck is en route from the southern tip of the island, and will cost upwards of $1000, even before any repair work can begin.
Ron and I are already thinking of skipping the rock section, and when we learn of another stricken vehicle at the far end of the huge sand climb our decision is easy. Wanting to see the entire sandy climb and descent for myself, I walk the length of the rough rock section and then the very long, soft and steep sand corridor.
I’ve seen hundreds of photos and videos of vehicles hopelessly stuck to the chassis rails in this very sand, and I feel a strong sense of déjà vu despite never having been here before.
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On the far side I find another large group assessing the damage to an older Nissan Patrol.
The clutch has burnt out in the soft sand, and the team are devising a plan to use three vehicles to pull the dead Patrol up and over the sandy climb, which they do with plenty of engine revving and wheel-spinning.When our turn comes we time the crashing waves and drive on the beach below the rocks, darting around just before the next wave crashes in.
While we avoid the rocks, the extremely soft sandy section is mandatory. Lowering our tyres to 14psi increases the contact patch, and I have no trouble moving forward through the soft sand up and over the climb.
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Ron, on the other hand, is not so fortunate, and I dash back with recovery boards in hand to help extract his bogged HiLux.
After lowering tyre pressures to 12psi Ron has no problem moving forward, and together we drive down the other side onto the remote northern beaches.
Continuing north the coastline becomes much more wild and remote, and my jaw drops as we round Sandy Cape at the northern tip of the island where enormous sand dunes drop right into the ocean, leaving just a small strip of beach sand for us to squeeze past at low tide.
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Family time
After exploring the remote corners of the Americas and Africa, I chose to explore Australia so I could include family in my adventures.
There’s no doubt my Uncle Ron had a huge influence on me growing up, and I have fond memories of fishing, hunting and camping with him as a teenager. Ron was my only relative with a four-wheel drive, and he always took me out on adventures when we spent time together.
I’m certain my love of remote exploration is in no small part thanks to him, and I’m extremely happy to spend 10 days together on this adventure. One of the downsides of being a global traveller is the lack of time I spend with my family, and so I try my best to soak in every minute we have together.
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We find a stunning campsite just above the high-tide line at the northern tip of the island, and the sense of relief that washes over Uncle Ron is clear to see.
I pushed to get us above Ngkala Rocks and he was a bit stressed racing the waves and driving in the extremely soft sand. We’re all happy we made it through with no damage, and so we cook a feast to celebrate our stunning campsite.
After dinner the skies open and let loose with a torrential downpour, and we scramble to set up our awnings to enjoy the night while staying warm and dry. We tell stories and reminisce late into the night, listening to the gentle swish of small waves while soaking in the incredible stars as they peek out from behind the retreating storm clouds.
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Visitors to camp
After brewing a pot of coffee early the next morning, Ron tries to quietly tell me about unwelcome guests in camp overnight, hoping that Katie won’t overhear. Of course Katie instantly hears our whispers, so we all sit down to get the story.
While we slept soundly in our new campsite, Ron explains how he woke in the night to find the three dingos standing over his swag, growling and baring their teeth. Maybe they heard his snoring as a challenge, or maybe they just want us off their turf.
Whatever the reason, Ron went from dead asleep to wide awake in a single heartbeat, and it took a lot of convincing to get the dingoes to move off. Not surprisingly, Ron says he lay awake for many hours afterwards.
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Dingoes are extremely common across the island, and sadly the three hundred or so resident animals have become quite habituated to humans.
While driving the beaches it is all but guaranteed you’ll see them prowling the shoreline searching for any tasty morsel they come across. In the late afternoons and evenings they have learned that humans and campsites mean food, so they move up into the dunes where they inevitably come into close contact with people.
Attacks on adults are exceedingly rare, though dingoes have attacked and seriously injured children on more than a few occasions over the years. During the daylight hours we are not scared of the many dingoes that come towards our camp, and so far yelling, clapping and shooing has moved them along. Overnight, however, they are not so easily deterred.
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Fish the bite back
K’gari is famous for its superb fishing, especially along the eastern coastline directly into the South Pacific.
Some of my earliest memories of fishing are with Uncle Ron, when we would four-wheel drive along sandy tracks before continuing on foot into remote beaches around Southern Australia. Ron is a master at reading the waves, tides and beach sand to find the deep channels and gutters to fish, and more often than not we trudged off the beach carrying a fish too big for me to carry.
Eager to relive past fishing trips Ron brought all his gear and each afternoon we set up on the sand, throwing our lines out repeatedly into the crashing waves as we enjoy catching up on all the years that have passed. Try as we might, the days roll by without catching a single thing – in fact, they roll by without so much as a single bite.
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With pride on the line, it all comes down to our final night on the island, and as Ron casts out our final strip of bait into the dark night we both agree we have done everything we can.
A few seconds later the line is screaming off the reel and the fight is on. Over the next 15 minutes Ron plays the game of allowing the fish to run before winding in whenever possible. It’s a fine balance to avoid breaking the line, and he works hard at the fight.
Under the glow of our headlights we finally land a thresher shark that is about one meter long. Catching the shark on our last strip of bait seems fitting, and we’re both happy we can call it quits. Back in camp we spend an hour carefully cutting up the delicious flesh before packing Ron’s freezer to the brim.
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All good things
I’ve seen countless photos and videos of K’gari over the years, and in retrospect I have no hesitation in saying not one of them did the island justice.
From my very first minutes on the island I was constantly blown away by the breathtaking beaches, the enormous inland forests, the lakes, the rivers, the rocks and the wildlife. Camping directly behind the beach dunes night after night is impossible to beat, and tackling the continuously shifting sand and changing conditions kept us on our toes behind the wheel.
With bacon and eggs for breakfast, tales of world adventures, beach fishing, hiking and plenty of laughs and smiles around the campsite, Uncle Ron was a welcome addition to our time in Australia, and I’m immensely happy we were able to spend so much time on this adventure together.
Naming an island ‘paradise’ might seem a bit over the top but in this case, I think it’s completely justified.
When travelling in the outback, there’s no more welcome sight than a pub.
For Aussies, the pub is the ultimate symbol of civilisation and hospitality, often the only remaining commercial building in a small rural town, and a place where you can cool down with a cold cold beer or warm up with a hot meal. The pub is also a fantastic resource where you can find out what is happening in and around a town, from the bartender and the locals.
Here are five of the best pubs in outback South Australia!
We love the Cradock Hotel. It is a quaint pub in Southern Flinders Ranges where we always feel at home, so much so that we often plan our trip itineraries so we can stay at the Cradock.
It’s a great place to drop in on the way to/from the Bendleby Ranges, which we’ve visited several times to drive their fun and challenging 4WD tracks.
We first met Dave and Amy at the pub a while back, when they were relatively new there; this was long before we had created Off Track Wines. Their warm hospitality is amazing and genuine. We reconnected when they visited our stand at the Adelaide Caravan and Camping Show in February 2023 and so they became our first outback customer.
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The Cradock Hotel has three hotel rooms with aircon, three without, with free camping out the back for patrons for the cost of a very welcome beer or meal.
‘The camping is pretty basic – it is just a flat area really, but the toilets are always clean and there are coin-operated hot showers for a couple of bucks.
If you’re a parent of younger kids, you’ll love the fact that there is a fenced outdoor nature playground coming off the dining room. It’s rustic timber with a group swing and balancing beams and climbing nets. The kids will be entertained while you relax with a drink while waiting for your meal. That’s worth a lot when you’re travelling as a family.
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It offers good pub food with a changing menu – burgers, parmies and pies, that kind of thing, cooked by Dave. The Big Hat right out the front is always good for a photo at sunrise too.
The hotel was built from stone in the early 1880s when the government opened settlements for crop farming north of the Goyder line. Sadly, after the initial ‘wheat rush’ were four years of crop failures which led to a sharp decline in the town’s population.
‘The historic town is a testament to the difficulty faced by farmers in our drought inclined land.
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If you love a good ghost story, the locals swear that old Lorrie walks the hallways of the pub and you can hear his footsteps creaking the floorboards late at night.
‘Apparently, publican Laurence Reardon passed away at the hotel in the early 1900s and loved the place so much he never left.
Ghosts aside, Craddock as a town is on the up. The pub was renovated about eight years ago and someone has just bought the old church and it has been renovated too. Like many towns, the pub provides a real focal point for the community to come together and socialise. It runs a Christmas pageant and Anzac Day ceremony, with the pub still at the heart of the town’s activities.
Food: Lunch and Dinner: all good; typical pub fare, with prices ranging from $14 kids meals to steak at $36
Accommodation: 3 hotel rooms with aircon, and 3 without. Prices range from $90-$140 a night. Or camp for the cost of a beer.
Wifi: Good wifi available
Other services: n/a
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Mungerannie Hotel
Mungerannie Hotel is the self-proclaimed ‘Centre of the Universe’, halfway along the Birdsville Track, about 200km north of Marree and 313km south of Birdsville.
It’s the all-important only fuel stop on the Birdsville Track, but there are lots of other reasons to stop and stay.
New owners took over in February 2023, giving the pub a freshen up while maintaining its outback character. So, if you’ve been to Mungarannie in the past, you need to go back and experience it now. We are really thrilled to see people investing in small towns in the middle of nowhere.
The hotel is separately owned from the adjacent Mungerannie Station, with whom there has been a bit of a water fight over access to the bore at the station which had been previously shared with the pub.
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The humans are not the only things vying for water rights, the birds are too! For nature lovers, there is a seasonal wetland out the back of the pub which also supports an impressive ecosystem of birdlife.
Mungerannie Hotel has a fantastic campground and facilities with hot showers and toilets. It’s a huge camping area with some protected sites amongst the trees if you need the shade as it can be pretty dry and dusty out there. There is also accommodation on site with 16 basic but clean and airconditioned motel rooms available.
If you are into motor history like my husband Brett (who restored his vintage HJ45 Troopie ‘Borr’ himself), there’s a cool collection of old rusty trucks there. They reflect the era of vehicle that would have been used by famed outback mailman Tom Kruse (the subject of the 1954 documentary film The Back of Beyond) to deliver mail and goods to stations along the Birdsville Track in the 1930s to 1950s.
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Publican Darren Murray loves talking about vehicles, especially Land Rovers, and his partner Viviana is from Chile and she loves talking about wine, so we all had a good yarn about both.
We give the food a big thumbs up. During the season (April to November) there is breakfast (toasties and coffee), as well as a lunch and dinner menu. Apart from a wide selection of burgers, there are some interesting international dishes like jambalaya, butter chicken, beef cheeks, and slow cooked lamb ragout to tempt the taste buds. If you miss meal time, you can get a toasted sandwich any time.
Apparently, Mungerannie is an Aboriginal word for “big ugly face”, but we only found friendly faces here!
Hours: 7 days a week from 8am until the last patron leaves. Sometimes closes over the off season/summer
Beers: Good range of beers and Off Track Wines
Food: Breakfast, and lunch and dinner menu ($25-$35)
Accommodation: 16 motel rooms available from $95 basic double or $120 ensuite. Camping is $10 per head per night
Wifi: Free Wifi in pub and motel via Starlink
Other services: Post service (via weekly mail plane), a service station with diesel and ULP, tyre sales and repairs.
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Transcontinental Oodnadatta
Everyone knows the Pink Roadhouse at Oodnadatta, not just because of its paint job.
It’s open during the day for travellers to get fuel, takeaway, supplies and the necessary souvenirs for the Oodnadatta track. They also have a caravan park with unpowered and powered sites ($25/$40 respectively). A bit up the road there is free camping.
The awesome people behind the famous Roadhouse – Peter, Jenny and Simon – renovated and reopened the Transcontinental Hotel Oodnadatta at the start of the 2023 season, after it had been closed for a few years. The Tranny is a tiny pub that literally consists of a bar, a pool table, and a small seating area.
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They serve dinner during the season; the menu consists of your basic pub fare: fish and chips, schnitzels, etc plus whatever Simon decides to cook that day.
In terms of accommodation, the pub has five airconditioned rooms with shared ensuite bathroom as well. If you are trying to phone to book a room using the number showing in the Google listing, forget it. The place is so remote that Telstra says they can’t find it on a map so they cancelled the number. Ahh, the joys of being in the outback! Anyway, it’s best to just call the Roadhouse which is the telephone number provided below.
One totally unique thing is the ‘Oodna-Uber’ which is the local version of a ride share service, in a vintage Land Rover. Fly-in visitors can get a lift from the airstrip to town; or jump in for the short trip between the Roadhouse and the Tranny; or call for an Oodna-UberEats pizza delivery around town. Locals can even get a lift home if needed after pub closing time.
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There are very few hotels still trading in Australia that can boast a well-documented and colourful history over the last 133 years like the Transcontinental, which Peter shared with us recently:
“Built in 1890 to provide food, accommodation, entertainment and alcohol to Overland Telegraph and Railway personnel, it soon became a thriving if not boisterous hub for outlying cattle stations within a 400km radius.
Tall Tales and true as told by descendants of station barons droving their cattle to Oodnadatta for the next 40 years until the railway finally continued to Alice, their families would be waiting for up to three months in their Oodnadatta holiday homes. While the drovers took it in turns to frequent the pub, stories of brawls, gunfights and altercations with locals abound.
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“1932 saw the pub destroyed by fire in suspicious circumstances and a new modern premises was hastily erected. And then, during the Second World War, the hotel and town became a major staging point for aircraft, troops, equipment, and American scientists on their journey to Darwin.
“In 1980 The Hotel was purchased by the local Dunjiba people and had a succession of good, bad, and indifferent managers. After the cessation of the Railway, Adam and Lynnie Plate created the identity of the Oodnadatta Track which has sparked ongoing interest in exploring the indigenous and colonial history of the area.
“The story does not end here, my friend. In 2003 a local police officer was forced to fatally shoot a patron who was discharging firearms into the pub, and the bullet holes are still obvious. Then in 2017 another patron who was refused service belligerently drove his car right into the bar, narrowly missing drinkers and destroying the bar.
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“It was also central to the filming of the Last Cab to Darwin film which was released in 2015.
“In 2022, after rebuilding and renovating, two experienced publicans with over 50 years in pubs between them (Simon and Peter) have leased the Tranny and are continuing in true outback tradition with tall tales and true, making the Pub and Oodna a must-do on anyone’s bucket list.”
It’s definitely worth a stop in Oodnadatta, and if you can, try to coincide your visit with one of the various events the town has throughout the year such as the races, outdoor cinema, or a football match between stations versus local residents. Call the Roadhouse or follow them on Facebook [↗️] to find out what’s happening around town. The management are fun people and the Tranny provides a real hub for the local community.
Open: During the season, open Wednesday to Sunday. Wed- Fri 4pm to close, Sat Sun 1pm to close
Out of season, hours are very limited
Meals: Dinner only Wednesday to Sunday. (See the Roadhouse for lunch!)
They are happy to open outside of these times (including for dinner) by appointment for bigger groups so it’s best to call them via the Roadhouse.
Accommodation: 5 airconditioned rooms available with shared ensuite at $50 a head
Wifi: Nope. When you can’t get a phone number, Wifi is a pipe dream!
Other services: Oodna-Uber Pub Truck ride share.
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Mount Dare Hotel
Location. Location. Location! If you were to draw a dot in the middle of Australia, you’d pretty much put a pin in Mount Dare Hotel.
It is 10km south of the SA-NT border, on the edge of the Simpson Desert. It’s probably our favourite outback pub because it is such an amazing location, just 70 km from Australia’s best natural hot tub of Dalhousie Springs.
So many of our most memorable adventures have started and ended here. If you haven’t already, do the Binns track to the north of Mount Dare; you can drive all the way to Alice Springs and it is one of most beautiful tracks in Australia.
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Anyway, back to the pub. We’ve been to Mount Dare Hotel many times over the years, seven times we think, as we’ve done multiple trips through the Simpson with different groups of friends.
Previously, back in 2021, we’d left some prototype samples of our red wines in a can with one of the staff at Mount Dare Hotel for them to try. In November 2022 when Brett arrived with the new Off Track Wines cans, Graham remembered that he had the earlier samples and pulled out the prototypes from two years earlier.
They drank them together and they still tasted great, with Graham calling the wine “restaurant quality”, which is exactly what we intended when we created them. We wanted to drink the same quality wine when camping as we did when at home, in the convenience of a can.
In terms of history, Mount Dare was originally a remote cattle station, but the land was bought by National Parks & Wildlife in 1984 and became the Witjira National Park.
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Mount Dare Hotel offers a workshop for vehicle repairs and a 4×4 recovery service
Five years after that, the homestead was leased out for tourism and became the Mount Dare Hotel. It pretty much serves as a National Park’s office because you can purchase park passes to visit Dalhousie Springs and the Simpson Desert and get up to date information on the local road/track conditions there.
This is a really important place when it comes to safety in the central Australian outback. Mount Dare Hotel offers a workshop for vehicle repairs and a 4×4 recovery service if you get bogged. It even has two airstrips, with avgas available to purchase by the 200L drum.
The Hotel also operates a UHF Repeater for long-distance communication and monitors chat on Ch6 for safety.
Even for visitors not needing help, it’s just a great place to stop. In terms of accommodation, there are basic cabins – two with ensuites, four without, and some dorm-style too, and bookings are necessary.
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The campground is set in native bush in a protected area and has spacious unpowered sites with shady trees, and close to amenities including toilets and hot showers. You can see dingo footprints where they have patrolled the perimeter fence around the camp. Camping is always available even when the pub is closed and bookings are not required.
Generous meals are served at the bar, with the scotch fillet being the signature dish – it was a cattle station, after all – and the fully cooked brekky is a Godsend before you pack up and head out to the Simpson.
Alarmingly, Mount Dare was hit by a huge storm recently; apparently it was like a cyclone and brought 75mm of rain. The wind knocked all the accommodation off their blocks and smashed all the windows; one unit was completely destroyed, and the pub flooded.
It’s a reminder that weather conditions are never predictable out there and often severe. Fortunately, some of the guests that were stranded there helped them clean up, and some of their tradie friends flew in from Melbourne so everything is fixed up and ready to go for the coming season.
Phone: (08) 8670 7835 or contact via UHF Channel 6
Publicans: Graham and Sandra Scott
Managed by: Shayme
Open: 7 days (during summer 8am-7pm only)
Beers: None on tap but a big range of stubbies and a good wine selection including Off Track Wines cans
Food: Pub menu including signature scotch fillet. Cooked breakfast (ranging from $14-$30), lunch ($6 to 22) and dinner ($28-42), and all-day snacks available
Accommodation: 8 renovated units including 6 standard units starting at $100-$115 per double and 2 ensuites starting at $140 a double. Camping costs $25 per car
Wifi: No public wifi
Other services: Post office (mail service comes on Wednesday), National Parks and Witjira passes, mechanic service station, 4×4 recovery service, airstrip, UHF repeater
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Innamincka Hotel
Innamincka means “watering hole”, and there is no better name for this little gem on the banks of the Cooper Creek surrounded by the Strzelecki Desert to the south and Sturt Stony Desert to the north.
From the outside, the hotel looks like a big square iron hut. The Front Bar remains largely untouched since 1999 and is adorned with outback and historical memorabilia.
You can dine in the front bar or at the ‘Outamincka’ bar which is a large airconditioned restaurant area, with different lunch and dinner menus. It’s the normal pub-style meals, with some creative changes whenever supplies of some ingredients run short due to unpredictable road conditions. There is an awesome roast served on a Sunday.
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There’s even a mini golf course coming off the restaurant area, so the kids have something to do at the pub too.
Accommodation is motel-style rooms, with modern facilities which out here means air conditioning, hot shower, TV and a bar fridge. They also have bunkhouse style accommodation for large groups or for people who are happy to enjoy communal-style living, which makes it cheaper but also a lot more social. Finally, there are some separate huts which are nice and private for single travellers.
You can also pay at the pub to camp on the town common, which is the camping area next to the Cooper Creek. The pub is walking distance from the common if you want to return for a counter meal once you’ve set up camp.
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Along the creek there are some bigger permanent waterholes where you can just about always catch a fish or two.
The original pub was built in 1885 at which time it was popular with drovers and shearers working up and down the Strzelecki Track but this was washed away in a massive flood in 1956. The hotel wasn’t rebuilt until 1973 when 4×4 visitors to the region revitalised the town.
At that time, it was called Cooper Creek Hotel-Motel and renamed Innamincka Hotel in 1989. The current owners bought and began renovating the iconic pub in 1999, with later additions being newer motel rooms, water filtration system and solar power.
The Innamincka Hotel serves Off Track Wines on their Cooper Creek riverboat cruises. The team also arranges tours to visit the memorial sites for Burke and Wills whose tragic outback tale brings many a history loving visitor.
The Toyota RAV4 topped sales last month for the first time since 2020 – but the new Ford Ranger was the best-selling ute again, with 5569 total sales for the month (5089 4X4, 480 4X2).
The Toyota HiLux followed with 4693 sales (4029 4X4, 664 4X2), placing it nearly 1000 units behind Ford’s ute for April.
The gap is much bigger from the year-to-date view: Ford has racked up 21,330 Ranger sales (19,329 going to 4X4), while the HiLux sits on 17,193 (14,949 4X4). The next-gen HiLux can’t come soon enough.
Following those two perennial top-steppers is that other market favourite, the Isuzu D-Max, with 2380 sales in April (1788 4X4) marking a small increase over its April 2023 result of 1802.
Year-to-date the D-Max looks healthier with 10,327 sales against 8372 for the same period in 2023 – and its recent facelift should help to grow that further.
Mitsubishi has confirmed some of those will be previous-gen bodies, and the brand intends to continue selling the older model in cab-chassis and club-cab form until those variants in the new range are ready to roll.
The D-Max’s platform twin, Mazda’s BT-50, rounded out the top five with 1137 sales for April – a moderate fall compared to its April 2023 result of 1336 sales. Year to date, the BT-50 is sitting on 5081 sales, compared to 5257 for the same period last year.
Total ute sales in April came to 19,376 (16,198 4X4) against 15,085 for the same period in 2023, revealing that the market for utes is showing no signs of slowing down.
Model
Sales for April 2024
Ford Ranger
5569
Toyota HiLux
4693
Isuzu D-Max
2380
Mitsubishi Triton
1287
Mazda BT-50
1137
Toyota LC70 ute
801 (4X4 only)
Volkswagen Amarok
729 (4X4 only)
GWM Ute
620
Nissan Navara
589
LDV T60 / Max
368
SsangYong Musso / XLV
322 (4X4 only)
Ram 1500
276
Chevrolet Silverado
191
Ford F-150
173
Chevrolet Silverado HD
151
Ram 2500
42
Toyota Tundra
28
Jeep Gladiator
14
Ram 3500
6
GWM is only just getting started with a product onslaught for Australian showrooms and the recent introductions of Tank 500, Tank 300, Ora and updated Cannon will be followed by more models and variants in the coming months and years.
While the exact list of vehicles that will join the growing family remains ‘under consideration’ at this stage, the company has offered a tantalising hint at those models most likely to make a local appearance.
We were given the chance for a quick spin in a selection of the vehicles being closely looked at by GWM Australia and New Zealand to see how they might fit into the existing line up and, most importantly, if they’ll resonate favourably with Australia’s discerning buyers.
First to appear on Australian roads will be an evolution of the popular Haval Jolion. While not officially confirmed yet, it’s all but a done deal that the updated small-to-mid-sized SUV will arrive in the next few months wearing it’s own unique design.
The headlights and large DRL light/indicator features from the existing Jolion face have been bisected forming two separate light units for the new model. The treatment works well, especially combined with a sporty lower valence and simplified grille.
At the tail end, the design revision continues with a far neater look incorporating continuous full-width light bar that’s a visual hybrid of Range Rover and Honda Civic. Gone are the slightly awkward three-point clusters.
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Overall, the Jolion Pro has changed just millimetres in length and height but its width is up a significant 84mm which adds a sporty and confident stance.
While the exterior is, subjectively, a step in the right direction and something quite new and handsome, mechanically a lot carries over when it comes to the stuff under the skin.
Like the current Jolion hybrid, it’s powered by a 1.5-litre petrol four-cylinder married to a hybrid electric motor. In practice, the union of petrol and electric develops good performance and acceleration along with a decent engine note from outside the car – if a little droning inside – thanks mostly to the hybrid-specific CVT.
There have been significant improvements to the steering with a more responsive and involving front end, while the chassis in general feels more lively and excitable.
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During a short blast, the Jolion Pro as it’s known in China is more manageable and fun and feels lighter on its feet.
Like the current generation version, the cabin is spacious and challenges the ‘small’ segment definition with good legroom and headroom in both rows of seating.
Nothing has changed with regard to cabin equipment with the paring of digital dash and large central screen carrying over, although the information and entertainment system is updated. Exact Australian revisions will have to wait, with our test car programmed with a China market system.
GWM is still weighing up if its growing family has the space for the Tank 700 but an initial taste of the large off-road machine would suggest there’s certainly potential for a new flagship over the newly arrived Tank 500.
There’s no denying that GWM’s design team were vying for a little Mercedes G-Class flavour in the exterior styling, including the satin metallic paint ours was dressed up in, and a blocky almost mil-spec theme.
We jumped behind the wheel of a top-spec Hi4-T which has a 3.0-litre twin-turbo V6 under the bonnet, paired with an electric motor on each axle for all-wheel drive and enormous performance.
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While a little laggy from a standing start, once the full 386kW and 850Nm is wound up, the 700 squats dramatically on its air suspension and performs a similar dive into the first hard braking test.
The same soft chassis tuning is also responsible for a fair bit of roll in corners but there’s a surprising amount of traction and steering response. The largely good manners can be upset by rapid changes of direction during which the stability system gets a little flummoxed.
Given a longer test we’re certain the 700 would offer a comfortable ride, while the amount of off-road-specific technology and features including front and rear locking diffs, disconnecting anti-roll bar and various all-terrain modes suggest this big tank has some reasonable go-anywhere ability.
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Its plush interior will also get you there in style and comfort. There’s a little of Haval’s satin silver switchgear to remind of the relationship but otherwise the 700’s cabin is an impressive space.
A cool wood grain material adorns the dash, door and centre console, the leather felt supple and we loved the digital clock which can be swapped for a more traditional style with a swipe of its face.
The central screen is a whopping 15.6-inch touchscreen dwarfing the not-exactly-small digital driver’s instrument cluster and is packed with heaps of technology such as 3D 360-degree camera, touchscreen adjustable air conditioning vents, native navigation and detailed driving modes.
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There’s also an electrically folding tow bar to prevent the aggressive looks being spoilt when not in use.
Second row passengers are very well looked after with masses of knee room and our test car featured the more luxurious seating with large fold down centre arm rest which contains its own touchscreen. Rear occupants also get a climate control panel, folding blinds, double glazing and selection of power sockets.
The Tank 700 is a huge amount of car but that might also come at a relatively huge price. Up to $150,000 for the flagship version might seem a bit steep for something wearing a Tank badge but there’s nothing else in the current market to offer as much performance and kit for the same cash.
The best part though is that it’s a plug-in hybrid with a beefy 37kWh battery and up to 85km of electric only range, claims GWM.
Finally, the GWM Tank 400 offers some of the big-daddy 700’s appeal in a smaller and more affordable package.
It still has air suspension and a similarly soft ride quality but, thanks to its smaller overall dimensions and mass, deals with an excited journalist at the wheel with more composure.
While it forfeits the monstrous flagship powertrain in favour of a four-cylinder turbo petrol hybrid bolted to the same nine-speed automatic, the combined effort of petrol and electric produces an impressive 304kW and 750Nm.
Acceleration off the mark feels as quick as the 700 but with less physics to deal with there’s more confidence to have a punt with a decent chassis and a nature that’s lighter on its feet. As to what happens when the road comes to an end however, is another question.
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The Tank 400 is, says GWM, very much an off-road focused model and is treated to largely the same all-terrain oily bits as its bigger sibling including the Hi4-T four-wheel drive transmission and plug-in hybrid system.
While the 700 would probably ferry you to the paths less traveled in more comfort, we suspect it’s the 400 that will go further once you arrive.
It doesn’t get quite the level of luxury as the 700 as you might expect but there’s still a lot to be liked including some lovely interior materials, cool ambient lighting, the same large central touchscreen and digital dash.
GWM hasn’t offered an idea of what pricing might look like if it were to be introduced to Australia but it could slot in with a higher price than the $46,990 driveaway Tank 300, but no more than the current flagship Tank 500, which starts at $66,490.
It took us two years from the time we ordered our V8 LandCruiser TroopCarrier to when we took delivery of it.
Within a month of driving out of the dealership there was a complete new 70 Series range released, which only happens about once in a decade, so all of a sudden our new vehicle was the old version. However, not much has changed with the latest version apart from the grill and bonnet, and the availability of a four-cylinder engine with an auto gearbox. Other than that the Troopy remains much like a metal box on wheels, and at least ours is a V8-powered metal box on wheels.
We have been working away on prepping the Troopy for outback adventures and, while waiting for a bull bar and rear-step bar to arrive, we fitted a Mission 4×4 MaxTrax table, as well as a pair of Mission 4×4 side gullwing windows for the rear. These don’t come cheap, but the first thing I noticed when they were delivered was the build quality of these two products. Manufactured from aluminium, both items feature first-class cutting, machining and welding, and they come well-packaged to ensure no damage occurs in transit.
If you’re handy with the tools, fitting the gullwing windows and MaxTrax table is a relatively easy DIY job. It takes about three to four hours to fit the gullwings, and the most time-consuming part is removing the old glue/sealant from the Troopy’s panel work. The easiest way to do that is to use a dob of the old sealant and pat the sealant you want to remove, a bit like getting blue tack off a wall – it’s slow but easy.
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The MaxTrax table takes around three hours to fit, and you’ll need a few basic tools, a tape measure and a spirit level to do the job right. You have to drill into the side panel of the Troopy to fit the table, so make sure you follow the instructions outlined in the Mission 4×4 video… and measure twice, drill once!
I didn’t follow the instructions to a tee, as I replaced the supplied stainless-steel rivets with nuts, bolts and bigger washers to secure the Maxtrax table to the side of the Troopy. My thinking is that by doing this there will be less stress around the mounting holes when the table is carrying the four MaxTrax boards that it is designed to hold.
As mentioned, both the MaxTrax table and the side gullwing windows are top quality pieces of equipment, and both are manufactured by Mission 4×4 in Perth, WA. The company also makes several other products to suit 70 Series LandCruisers, and is well worth checking out.
Tesla has revealed new off-road details for its all-electric 2024 Cybertruck.
Information posted on the platform formerly known as Twitter shows the Cybertruck will be equipped with two off-road modes: Overland and Baja.
Overland mode is said to provide “more consistent handling and better overall traction while driving on rock, gravel, deep snow, or sand”. While Baja mode, as the name suggests, will provide more balance and grip on faster off-road trails – or as Tesla put it, “vehicle balance is improved and the vehicle handles more freely when Stability Assist is set to Minimal”.
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A Trail Assist function will also be incorporated into the Cybertruck, which acts like cruise control but is tailored for off-roading, and it will assist with hill ascent and descent control by preventing the wheels from slipping. Plus, a Slippery Surface function will provide increased traction on slick, ice- and snow-covered roads.
The dual-motor Cybertruck’s front and rear diff locks can be toggled on and off via the vehicle’s in-cabin interface. The tri-motor CyberBeast steps things up a notch by having a virtual locked rear differential which is always working in Overland mode.
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As can be seen in the above image, the ride height can be adjusted (high, very high and extract), and a Wade mode button can be spotted, presumably to assist with difficult water crossings.
In addition, the Cybertruck will feature a CyberTent mode, which is said to level out the suspension to provide a flat surface to camp in comfort. Plus, all lighting and AC outlets can be controlled in-cabin.
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Speculation was rife the Cybertruck could be sold in Australia when a unit was spotted in Sydney recently, but those whispers were muted when Tesla confirmed the left-hand drive vehicle is here to tour showrooms across Australia and New Zealand to help drive sales of its Model 3 and Model Y.
The chance of seeing a RHD Cybertruck on local off-road tracks remains unlikely.
The facelifted 2024 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport has been introduced, with the new-look, more expensive model now available in dealerships nationwide.
The updated Pajero Sport remains powered by the 133kW/430Nm 2.4-litre turbo-diesel engine that runs through an eight-speed automatic transmission and 4WD system. Yep, Mitsubishi Australia has also slashed all 2WD models from its local line-up “due to a lack of demand,” according to the brand.
Despite the culling of 2WD variants, the 4WD line-up remains untouched, beginning with the GLX five-seater priced from $51,540 before on-road costs and topping out with the GSR seven-seater, which retails for $64,840.
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As shown in the table at the bottom of this article, prices have increased between $1600 and $2400 across the Pajero Sport line-up.
All grades in the five-model line-up have been re-touched with updated upper and lower grilles more akin to the 2024 Triton ute, as well as front and rear bumper garnishes.
In addition, all models now wear – as standard – the black headlamp extensions previously only seen on the top-spec GSR model. The base-spec GLX now also gets automatic dusk-sensing headlamps and rain-sensing wipers.
A revised 18-inch multi-spoke wheel design is also new for 2024, with the tone dependent on the model grade – singular tone for GLX; two-tone for GLS and Exceed; and a black finish for the GSR. As a further point of distinction, the range-topping GSR has also gained black door mirrors, black door handles and a black tailgate handle.
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A new Blade Silver metallic paint option which debuted with the all-new Triton is now available for GLX, GLS and Exceed models. New for the GSR is a graphite grey colour option with the black roof treatment.
On the inside, all models have been upgraded with the same three-spoke, leather-trimmed steering wheel that debuted in the Triton earlier this year; a new diamond-pattern, two-tone premium synthetic leather upholstery (in burgundy and black colour combo) is unique to the GSR grade; and revised instrument display graphics have been implanted into the 8.0-inch digital driver displays of GSR and Exceed models.
“Pajero Sport continues to perform a pivotal role in our product portfolio. It is spacious, comfortable and capable, and the 2024 model year looks fantastic with its refreshed exterior, new wheels and upgraded interior,” said Mitsubishi Motors Australia CEO Shaun Westcott.
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“The updated digital instrument display for Exceed and GSR, as well as improved standard specification for GLX, means there are tangible improvements across the range.”
Year-to-date, Mitsubishi has sold 2281 units of the Pajero Sport (excluding April sales figures), with the Japanese marque shifting 914 units in March.
All Pajero Sports are covered by Mitsubishi’s 10-year/200,000-kilometre manufacturer’s warranty, with 10 years of capped price servicing.
Modern independently sprung 4x4s are better in almost every way than their older live-axle ancestors.
They’re more comfortable, more capable (thanks to a whole heap of electronics), ride better, use less fuel, and allow us to pound out previously unheard-of kilometres without breaking a sweat. Yep, on paper they’re just about perfect; except all that ‘extra’ stuff comes with ‘extra’ complications.
There’s no hiding the obvious ones like needing a degree to even open the bonnet, but one that’s sprung up more and more with modern suspensions is their complication in suspension lifts.
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The basic premise still stands. Take out the standard springs, put some longer ones in, and lift the body and chassis of your 4×4 a few inches farther away from the ground. But unlike the comparatively agricultural live-axles, independent suspensions cause all sorts of issues when you start cranking them towards the skies.
Aftermarket upper control arms have taken the 4×4 scene by storm, promising to fix what ails you, cure your lifting issues and grow curly hairs on your chest.
To get to the bottom of what’s what, we’ve spoken to some of the biggest names in welding together control arms to find out everything you need to know to not only lift your IFS 4×4 safely, but do it legally as well.
With more and more 4×4 gear being rolled in glitter and sparkles, it’s almost too easy to get wrapped up in the what and less in the why.
Before laying down your credit card details on a set of new upper control arms, it’s vital to know why you do (or don’t) need them. Whether your 4×4 is sporting an independent front end or live axle, installing a suspension lift will do two things: it’ll physically lift your chassis and body away from the mounting point of your wheels and tyres, which frees up room for larger tyres and provides ground clearance; and it’ll pivot the suspension arms, linking the two together.
In solid axles, that pivot effect is rarely an issue; the axle will roll, changing the relationship between upper and lower bearings and throwing off the caster. A set of off-set bushes will fix the issue without too much fuss. In an independent front suspension things are a little more complicated.
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The twin-arm arrangement means there’s not only caster adjustment like a solid axle 4×4, but also camber to consider. Lifting an independent 4×4 even minimally can knock all these alignments out of spec and cause issues with ball-joint operating angles, clearance on both tyres, as well as other suspension components.
Aftermarket upper control arms are designed to alleviate all these issues, getting the suspension geometry and alignment back to factory or better.
David Atherton from SuperPro explains: “Generally IFS 4WDs come out of the factory with two degrees of adjustment, for every inch you lift your vehicle you will lose one degree of adjustment. This means that if you lift your 4WD and then go to get a wheel alignment there will be no adjustment to accurately align your vehicle. Adding an adjustable upper control arm gives back those two degrees of adjustment, allowing our 4WD to once again get an accurate alignment.”
Troy Schipper from Roadsafe adds another point often overlooked: “When the manufacturer gives a wheel alignment specification, it’s without raised height or increased tyre size. Larger tyres absorb caster, forcing you to run higher caster than stock to retain the same feel.”
Legalities
While Australian Design Rules are a fantastic implement to ensure the car next to you isn’t running plywood suspension arms, the channels for modifications are often murky and fraught with danger.
There’s been many people forced to uninstall better handling suspension or better performing brake upgrades because the owner didn’t tick the right boxes. Before a set of control arms can be fitted to your 4×4 they need to be proven to meet or exceed ADRs and OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) specifications. There are two ways this can be done.
The first is through the manufacturer itself. If they’ve gone through the process to prove their arms meet or exceed the factory specifications they’ll be able to provide you with the relevant paperwork.
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“National Code of Practice classifies these as a direct replacement component,” said Michael Hayes from Superior Engineering. In most states this should mean no further paperwork is required; although, if you do require engineering in your state it’s as simple as supplying the paperwork so no further testing is required.
If the manufacturer hasn’t jumped through these hoops it means the arms in their current state aren’t legal for road use, no matter how well (or poorly) they’re built. You’ll need to consult with an engineer and likely spend thousands in destructive testing to ensure they’re up to spec.
If the manufacturer can’t provide relevant paperwork you may as well have got the pizza delivery boy to weld them, as far as the law is concerned.
ADR compliance
So what exactly is involved in bringing a set of control arms to market, and why can’t your neighbour run a tape measure over a home-brew set and call them ADR compliant?
“Aftermarket arms are only legal if all components meet or exceed OE,” said Michael Hayes. “Some brands sold in Australia don’t have the correct ball-joint working angles. If a product is deemed road legal then it must in all aspects match or outperform the factory component; although, it can be vague when it comes to longevity of replaceable parts like bushes, bearings or other consumable items.”
To prove their components are up to scratch, high-end brands will often spend tens of thousands in testing, prototypes and computer modelling. This not only proves they’re not going to fall to pieces after pounding out hundreds of kays of corrugations, but also that they’re able to improve handling over the factory components.
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Unfortunately, nothing in life is that simple, and while your shiny new set of control arms might have the relevant paperwork, that’s not as important as who you’re actually buying them from.
“Unfortunately in Australia anyone can sell an arm,” says Cal Goodman. “We’ve seen many copies coming in from China and sold at very low prices.”
A widely known secret is the importation of direct copies of Australian products, often including manufacturer logos and ADR stickers without any of the appropriate testing or approval. While they might look identical, imported copies can run knock-off bearings, bushes and weak materials throughout their construction.
If you’re buying a set of arms from someone’s boot in a carpark, you might not be buying genuine components.
What to look for?
Even in the high-end segment different control arms have been designed with different uses in mind, so you’ll need to decide which product is right for you, not just for your Instagram followers.
ADR compliance and like-to-like fitment are the obvious requirements across any-use cases. It not only means it’ll be legal to run on your 4×4, but also that you won’t need to get the gas-axe out to fit them, reaming spindles to accept different pitch ball-joints or remaking suspension mounts to get an extra 5mm of wheel travel.
Additional mods
While redesigned upper control arms are part of a larger suspension system, they don’t typically require additional modifications to work.
“There’s no reason to run things like ball-joint spacers,” said Troy Schipper. “We rotate the ball-joint cup in the arm to maximise down travel.”
Michael Hayes added: “Ball-joint spacers or extended ball-joints also place additional loads on the weak factory arms and can cause cracking.”
With aftermarket control arms coming into their own with any lifts over 40mm they’ll typically be recommended in conjunction with diff drops, but they’re separate products solving separate issues. The diff drop helps correct CV angles, essentially adding strength to the front end. Control arms upgrade the factory’s weak arms and provide more clearance and better handling. Two sides to the same coin.
Improved off-road performance
Aftermarket control arms sound fantastic, don’t they? And they really are. They solve a lot of alignment issues, add strength back into a system pushed to its limits, and make your tyres last longer.
If that’s not enough, they can also increase off-road performance. So how do they give better off-road performance? By fixing a problem you’ve created.
As your suspension is lifted, the upper control arm becoming angled causes more issues than just your alignment. The first is binding of the upper ball-joint. It locks up with too much angle limiting down travel and wearing prematurely.
Likewise, the upper control arm wrapping around the strut means, with too much angle, it’ll also foul. By re-angling or redesigning ball-joints, as well as making more clearance around the strut tower and the tyre, redesigned control arms give more wheel travel, meaning your 4×4 has tyres on the ground for longer and there’s less chance of losing traction.
While there are legal minefields around both buying and installing control arms, reputable manufacturers make it a smooth affair and can make your lifted 4×4 perform better off-road and handle better on-road.
It’s no wonder they’re becoming more and more prevalent in complete suspension kits.
*This article was originally published in April, 2018
Bendix’s popular General CT range has expanded with the new Bendix General CT rotors, designed to provide reliable, durable and confidence-inspiring braking performance for vehicles.
The rotors also debut Bendix’s new SwiftCheck, an industry-first innovation that provides a convenient visual indicator of rotor wear so that mechanics can easily estimate the remaining rotor life without having to measure the rotor thickness. The feature also provides convenience and peace of mind as you can inspect the rotors and take action if required, which is handy if planning an adventure.
Bendix Product Manager, Ian Campbell, said the company prided itself on bringing innovative new products to market.
“Bendix is committed to pushing the boundaries and this is evident with our new General CT disc brake rotors, which provide the brand with another industry-first,” Ian said. “The SwiftCheck visual wear indicator has the potential to be a game-changer for the industry, increasing safety for drivers while also boosting efficiency for workshop technicians.”
SwiftCheck is a machined feature that creates circular grooves on the rotor surface that narrow and disappear gradually as the rotor wears. Once the wear indicator displays a single dot in the centre, this indicates it’s time for the rotor to be changed. Along with offering this time-saving feature, General CT disc brake rotors shine when it comes to braking performance. The range features high-quality metallurgy that’s designed for longevity and improved heat dissipation.
The range also delivers an ‘E+ Original Equipment Fit’ that is designed to be a direct replacement for OE rotors. They meet or exceed OE specifications and deliver confidence for both mechanics and vehicle owners. General CT disc brake rotors were developed to provide great results with all disc brake pad designs, but for optimum performance they’re best matched with the Bendix range of brake pads.
As with Bendix’s other disc brake rotor product lines, General CT rotors feature SwiftFit surface protection, which is a coating that allows the rotor to be fitted without needing to remove oils. SwiftFit also helps prevent corrosion of the rotor, resulting in an almost unlimited shelf life and a rust-free rotor.
Despite its Australasia-inspired name, there’s more than a little American truck styling to the front end of the Tasman, with low-set but tall headlights flanking a huge grille.
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There’s also a hint of Jeep Gladiator in its profile, with a long cabin and a long rear overhang – similarities that seem to have inspired artist NYMammoth to imagine the Tasman as a wagon to wrestle the Wrangler.
The Tasman’s look lends itself nicely to the retro wagon themes of the Wrangler, not to mention the Bronco that Ford is still rudely keeping from our market.
And, as the GWM Tank 300 has shown – thanks in big part to its sharp pricing – Australians have a big appetite for that off-roading style.
If Kia were to introduce such a model, it could easily step in as a long-overdue new generation of the off-roading Mohave SUV sold in North America.
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What do you think of NYMammoth’s speculative take on a Tasman wagon?
And what would you call it? Let us know in the comments below!
Catch up our comprehensive Tasman coverage at the links below.