SOUTH Australia’s Flinders Ranges is a truly spectacular destination, offering a stunning landscape, ancient and modern history, plenty of top-notch facilities and an incredible array of wildlife.
It’s also the gateway to Australia’s Red Centre, so it’s little wonder this area attracts many four-wheel drive adventurers.
Of course, when you’re sitting down at home planning your trip to the Flinders Ranges and beyond, it would be excusable if you simply wanted to find the most direct route to get there as quick as you can. But don’t forget the journey is often as enjoyable as the destination.
Whether you’re travelling to the Flinders from Melbourne or Adelaide in the south or Broken Hill in the east, there’s always the temptation to stick to the main roads to get there as quickly as possible and to make use of whatever time you have available to you.
So while most people travelling from the east along the Barrier Hwy from Broken Hill head all the way to Peterborough before making north for Hawker, there’s a much more scenic option for those willing to put a little extra dirt under their tyres. This option is also available to those heading up from the south.
YUNTA TO WAUKARINGA THE route starts at Yunta on the Barrier Hwy, which is an ideal place to fuel up and grab any last-minute supplies. Directly opposite the BP service station is the start of the gravel road (Tea Tree Rd) that heads north to Waukaringa Ruins.
It’s not an all-weather road, but it’s clearly signposted at the start and will be marked either open or closed in sections; from Yunta to Arkaroola, from Arkaroola to Copley, and from Arkaroola to Innamincka. As this route peels off just beyond Waukaringa Ruins, you’ll only need to concern yourself with the southern section of the road being open (if in doubt, call 1300 361 033).
The undulating 35km road to Waukaringa was in pretty good nick the last time we drove it, but it sees quite a few trucks and can develop a few washouts and corrugations if it’s been a while between grading sessions. It’s advisable to air down your tyres at the start point, as you’ll be on unsealed roads/tracks from here to Hawker anyway.
Waukaringa Ruins consists of the crumbling old hotel, remnants of the old post office and some footings from other buildings that made up the goldmining settlement, which was settled in 1873 and abandoned in the 1960s. However, it wasn’t until 1982 that Waukaringa was formally declared to have ceased to exist.
Back in its heyday, the Waukaringa Hotel must’ve been a thriving place with plenty of rooms and big cellars within the massive building. In 1890, Waukaringa was claimed to have had a population of 750 people, and wandering around the ruins it’s easy to imagine the locals enjoying an ale at the pub after a long day in the mines.
A plaque donated by Kevin Kakoschke (author of Women of Gold and Off the Barrier Highway) lists all of the hotel’s licensees over the years, as well as some interesting Waukaringa Hotel facts. Another of Kevin’s plaques is located at the site of the old Waukaringa Post Office, and it lists all of the town’s postmasters from 1875 to 1964.
For those who want to spend the night here, camping is permitted in the immediate vicinity of the ruins, but it should be noted that the surrounding area is private property. There are no facilities here, so you’ll need to be self-sufficient and bring your own firewood.
WAUKARINGA TO HAWKER ABOUT 12km north of Waukaringa Ruins is a turn-off to the left that heads northwest towards Baratta Ruin. This sandy track is quite narrow in places and winds its way through picturesque station country.
It passes through working pastoral properties, so you must stick to it, unless prior permission has been granted by the relevant landowner. You should also keep a close eye out for wandering stock and native fauna.
From Baratta Ruin, continue northwest towards Holowiliena and then turn left and head southwest to Cradock. The beautiful, old sandstone pub at Cradock dates back to 1881 and offers cold drinks, hot food and accommodation. It’s a great place to spend the night for those with time on their side.
From Cradock, there are two options to the north: either head up the blacktop where it intersects the main road to Hawker; or head up the dirt, which will bring you to Hawker from the east. Both options are about the same distance, but the latter is the more entertaining of the two. Hawker offers fuel, a caravan park and a choice of motels.
From Hawker, the magnificent Flinders Ranges is at your doorstep: Arkaba, Wilpena Pound, the Great Wall of China, Brachina Gorge, Parachilna Gorge, Willow Springs, Arkaroola … but remember the journey is often as enjoyable as the destination.
TRAVEL PLANNER
ROUTE Yunta, SA, is located on the Barrier Hwy, 195km southwest of Broken Hill and 88km northeast of Peterborough. Waukaringa Ruins are 35km north of Yunta, while the rest of this route only totals around 120km before you’ll find yourself in the pub at Cradock. Cradock to Hawker is only around 30km.
WHEN You can visit the Flinders Ranges all year ’round, but the best time is between April and October when the weather is coolest.
FUEL AND SUPPLIES The Caltex (08 8650 5013) at Yunta is open until 10.30pm and the BP (08 8650 5196) is open 24 hours. There’s also a BP at Hawker (08 8648 4086). The Hawker Caravan Park can be booked by calling (08) 8648 4006.
MAPS AND GUIDES You don’t need too much detail to successfully navigate this route, so a good touring atlas or Hema’s South Australia map will suffice. Alternatively, use a Hema Navigator or Hema Explorer on a mobile device.
CONTACTS Road conditions: 1300 361 033 Cradock Hotel: (08) 8648 4107
THIS easy and delicious dessert will be a hit with kids and grown-ups alike. A rollup filled with cream cheese and blueberries (or sliced strawberries) and tossed in cinnamon sugar… what’s not to like?
INGREDIENTS
Serves: 4 (2 rollups each)
2 large eggs
2 tbsp milk
½ tsp vanilla essence/extract
A pinch of nutmeg
1 cup of sugar
2 tsp cinnamon
2 tbsp butter
8 slices white sandwich bread (no crust)
½ cup (125g) cream cheese (softened)
½ cup fresh blueberries or sliced strawberries
DIRECTIONS
Prep: 10-15 mins
Cook: 5-8 mins
• In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, vanilla and nutmeg, then set aside while you prepare the rollups.
• In a small container, mix the sugar and cinnamon, then pour on a plate and set aside.
• Use a rolling pin or drink bottle, gently flatten each piece of bread to make it less than 6cm thick. Be careful not to break the bread apart.
• Spread as much cream cheese as you want along the bottom edge of each piece of bread, then top with a row of blueberries or sliced strawberries.
• Roll the bread firmly from bottom to top, making it into a cigar-shape.
• To help seal the end of the rollup, either spread a small amount of cream cheese or brush with some of the beaten egg/milk mixture along the edge.
• Repeat this process with all the slices of bread.
• Heat a large non-stick pan (preferably) and melt the butter over a med/high heat.
• Dip the bread rollups into the egg/milk mixture and roll around so each rollup is coated evenly.
• Lift the rollups out and let a little of the egg/milk mixture drip off, before placing in the pan of melted butter.
• Add the bread rollups around four at a time and cook until evenly golden brown. You’ll need to keep an eye on them and keep turning to ensure all sides are golden. It should take about two minutes per side.
• Don’t have your melted butter too hot or you’ll burn the butter and the rollups. However, there needs to be enough heat to give a nice golden brown finish.
• Remove and place rollups in the sugar/cinnamon mixture, rolling around so all sides are well-coated.
• Serve immediately.
VIV’S HINTS
Try adding strawberry jam, cream cheese, lemon curd, or fruit cheese. You could use frozen berries, but ensure you pat them dry on some paper towel before using or they’ll make the bread soggy. Nutella, peanut butter and banana slices, caramel and banana slices, or canned apple slices can also be used as filling.
WEBSITE OF THE MONTH
Search the Go Camping Australia blog for some kid-friendly desserts: www.gocampingaustraliablog.com
IT’S time to dust off the camping gear, lower the tyre pressures and hit the dusty trails. Here’s a bunch of new kit you could use on your next adventure.
OPPOSITE LOCK REAR STEP TOWBAR Oppy Lock’s premium steel rear step towbar range covers all the popular current-model 4×4 utes on the market: Ford Ranger, Holden Colorado, Isuzu D-Max, Mazda BT-50, Mitsubishi Triton, Nissan Navara, Toyota Hilux and VW Amarok. The heavy-duty tow hitch is rated specifically to each model’s towing capacity, and the 63mm steel tube and plate guard, designed for optimum departure angle, means the bar is super tough.
The mounting points for both Anderson and trailer plugs are up high as well. The bar is phosphate-cleaned and powdercoated black and includes an aluminium checkerplate step, plus high-lift jack mount points. The loop tube design offers ample protection for your rig’s rear end. The full kit includes rear step, towball-mounting hitch, rego plate light and rear sensors (where applicable).
Website: www.oppositelock.com.au RRP: $1099
GARMIN INREACH SE+ & INREACH EXPLORER+ The inReach SE+ and Explorer+ combine sat-phone technology (via Iridium network) to allow two-way text messaging, emergency (SOS), and GPS navigation. Both units include inbuilt GPS, with the Explorer+ true to its moniker and adding preloaded topographic maps, as well as a barometric altimeter, compass and accelerometer. The inReach SE+ and Explorer+ can send and receive text messages from any email address, mobile phone, or another inReach unit.
The interactive SOS triggers an emergency response from GEOS (24-hour international emergency response) or you can set up your own emergency contacts list so they are alerted once you hit SOS. Both units claim up to 100 hours of battery life per charge in tracking mode and 30 days in power-save mode.
Website: www.garmin.com.au RRP: $599 (inReach SE+); $699 (inReach Explorer+)
IRONMAN 4X4 INSTANT AWNING Ironman’s popular Instant Awning has been revamped. The awning’s cam-lock telescopic uprights and supports have been upgraded and flexible nylon joints have been added to allow for movement due to strong winds, thus ensuring the track system doesn’t damage. Velcro pull-over clamps now make unrolling of the awning faster and easier.
Ironman uses tough 280gsm rip-stop polycotton fabric for durability, and the stitching is seam-sealed, ensuring the awnings are fully waterproof. The fabric is also rated to UV50+ sun protection and the awning is stored inside a 1000-denier waterproof PVC cover. Other features include an integrated LED light strip (with strip light dimmer), glow-in-the-dark guy ropes and a comprehensive installation kit. The Instant Awning is available in three sizes: 1.4m x 2.5, 2m x 2.5m, and 2.5m x 2.5m.
Website: www.ironman4x4.com RRP: $245 (1.4m x 2.5m); $270 (2m x 2.5m); $295 (2.5m x 2.5m)
OZTENT KING KOKODA CHAIR Oztent’s new King Kokoda sits within the new HotSpot chair range and is rated to 150kg. An Oztent HotSpot is a heating pouch that slots into any of the King Kokoda’s four HotSpot pockets. The HotSpot pouch is warmed by placing it in the supplied microfibre bag, immersing this in a billy that you bring to the boil and let simmer for five minutes.
The warmed pouch is then placed in one of the pockets and you’re set for an hour of warm comfort.The pouch can be used/reheated up to 500 times. The King Kokoda is built tough – heavy-duty steel frame, solid alloy armrests, comfy padded polyester – and features adjustable lumbar support. The carry bag stores in the headrest.
Website: www.oztent.com.au RRP: $139.95
WAECO CFX75DZW FRIDGE/FREEZER This new twin-compartment fridge/freezer from Waeco continues the company’s push into Wi-Fi tech, which means temperatures can be monitored remotely via the Dometic CFX app on your smartphone or tablet. The fridge/freezer features improved Variable Motor Speed Optimisation, enabling the compressor to maintain optimum cooling speed via ‘soft start’ or ‘turbo’ modes, and a three-stage battery protection set-up.
It measures 887mm (W) x 472mm (H) x 495mm (D), with a weight of 20.5kg. The low power draw is the result of thicker insulation in the unit. Inside, there’s LED lighting, and the evaporator plates are mounted flush, enabling easy cleaning. There’s also a USB charge point and tough latches, hinges and handles for securing it to your cargo area.
Website: www.dometic.com RRP: $1799
TROJAN MOVABLE ANCHOR POINTS For ute and trailer owners, Trojan has released two new anchor points: the Movable (in a twin-pack and rated to 125kg capacity) and the Heavy Duty (420kg capacity). The versatility of the anchor points means you can avoid drilling unsightly holes in your ute tray, as they can easily be attached to – and moved between – ute and trailer. The anchors feature extended-length screws for securing to different thicknesses and through different surfaces.
The Movable model has a rubber covering on its base and sides to avoid scratching ducos, while the Heavy Duty jobbie has a tough zinc-plated finish. The Heavy Duty anchor also includes a pivoting ring that offers up to 180 degrees of rotation to ensure easy access and effective tie-down force.
Website: www.trojanparts.com.au RRP: $39.95 (Movable, twin-pack); $34.95 (Heavy Duty, single unit)
THE main battlefields in the Somme region of northern France are a place where, just over 100 years ago during World War I, thousands of young ANZACs arrived following the battles at Gallipoli to play a key part in the war on the Western Front.
As a youth growing up and learning about these battles at school, I always wanted to visit this area and experience what so many young men endured during the Great War. So, while planning a trip to Europe in the Landy, I decided to take in the Somme region in the north of France and tackle some of the off-road tracks that zigzag their way to the historic Somme battlefields.
THE BATTLE OF ALL BATTLES
IN THE early morning of July 1, 1916, more than 100,000 British infantrymen were ordered by the British Generals from their trenches north of the Somme River in France to attack the Germans. The Germans were embedded in trenches stretching 30km, just a stone’s throw away from the British.
The Germans had built an impregnable and sophisticated wall of barbed wire between the trenches, with powerful machineguns strategically perched in view of the space between both lines. The Germans annihilated the British charge, which resulted in almost 60,000 casualties, a third of whom died, making it one of the biggest losses during one day inflicted on any army in the history of modern warfare.
Despite the enormous losses inflicted on the first day of the Battle of the Somme, the offensive continued. The Australian Imperial Force, consisting of fresh volunteers and men who had fought at Gallipoli, arrived at the Somme battleground to assist in the offensive.
Throughout this campaign, which stretched from 1916-18, the Australian divisions suffered 24,000 casualties, including more than 6700 deaths. Official war correspondent C.E.W. Bean described parts of the Somme as, “more densely sown with Australian sacrifice than any other place on earth”.
CODENAME: TANK
The name ‘tank’ was initially a secret code used by the British to maintain secrecy and disguise its true purpose. This vehicle was developed in 1915 to break the stalemate of trench warfare.
The Mark 1 had a 105hp six-cylinder engine and its main benefits included surviving the machinegun and small-arms fire in no man’s land, being able to travel over the muddy terrain, and driving over barbed wire and crossing the gaps between enemy trenches. It was also used to carry supplies and troops through difficult terrain.
TREKKING THE BATTLEFIELDS
DRIVING on the 4WD tracks through this region is a very humbling experience, as you pass graveyard after graveyard with distinctive white and dark grey crosses that dominate the landscape. Many of the inscriptions carved on the crosses read: “A soldier of the Great War known unto God”, and there are huge memorials built in memory of various allied countries that fought in the many battles in the region.
It’s currently a very popular place for visitors from all over the world, given these battles are in their centenary year. Bus tours of this region are great, but having a 4WD or taking part in a 4WD tour allows you to experience and absorb this landscape as you drive from battlefield to battlefield along narrow dirt tracks that take you right into the heart of this historic region.
You can’t help but imagine what it was like for the first ANZACs who arrived here in the summers of 1916-18. They would have been transported by horses, as well as by large trucks like the B-type British buses that were converted into military transport vehicles and used to shift troops along the muddy tracks to the trenches on the front line.
Another vehicle that was used to negotiate these challenging tracks was the Lanchester armoured car built by Rolls-Royce. This beast supported a six-cylinder, 60hp petrol engine and, despite its rugged appearance, the poor track conditions often proved too much of a challenge for the 4×2 Lanchester, as its low chassis limited its usefulness in the field.
Probably the most recognisable vehicle that negotiated this muddy landscape during the Battle of the Somme was the British-made Mark 1 tank, the world’s first tank that took part in combat. As I steered my Land Rover through the region’s numerous tracks that dissected and zigzagged this historic landscape, the weather took a turn for the worse and the tracks started to get very muddy and slippery.
Having been slowed down considerably and stuck on one occasion, it soon came to light what the conditions would have been like for the men and the vehicles that occupied this region all those years ago. The mud in the Somme is very slippery and heavy; very different to anything I’ve ever experienced.
During the battle of the Somme, the land was devastated by the constant bombardment of bombs, leading to it becoming waterlogged and resulting in very unpleasant conditions for those negotiating the challenging environment.
EVER-PRESENT DANGER
When 4WDing in this region, ensure you stick to the designated tracks. It may be more than 100 years since the Battle of the Somme, but its dangers are still very real, with millions of unexploded munitions remaining buried under the topsoil throughout the region.
The French and Belgian authorities and military are still cleaning up and discovering tonnes of bombs every year. In 2004, for example, 3000 German artillery shells were found at a single site in Dadizele, east of Ypres. The large volumes found aren’t that surprising considering that between 1914 and 1918 both armies fired millions of shells at each other, some filled with toxic gases.
So it’s well-advised to stick to the established tracks or to take a tour with an established 4×4 touring company, like Battlefields by 4×4. As I meandered my way through the now very muddy 4WD tracks, I eventually arrived at the memorial of the Third Australian Division.
On the high country above the village Sailly-le-Sec, at the intersection of the D1 and the road that climbs northwards out of the village, stands this impressive Australian Memorial. The Third Australian Division fought its first major battle here in June 1917 during the Battle of Messines, as well as numerous other battles along the Western Front.
These Australian troops arrived at this very location with the mission to occupy an old French line of defence between the villages of Mericourt L’Abbé and Sailly-le-Sec and take over from the tired British troops. Upon arriving more than 100 years ago, the Australians were received with a very warm welcome from the French villagers who were very relieved to see them.
After a long day touring the off-road track, I set up camp at the Les Puits Tournants campsite right beside the village of Sailly-le-Sac and found myself imagining how active this small village would have been more than one hundred years ago, with the sounds of big engines, Australian accents and the deafening bombardment of artillery fire in the distance as the Australian Third Division set up camp surrounding this quaint French village.
I found the perfect pitch beside a small creek and then opened the roof-top tent and lit the billy and portable fire pit to start preparations for dinner, before having a look at the map to plan the tracks and sites to be visited the following day.
TOUR GUIDE
THERE are a number of options on how best to visit these sites, with various services to the battlefields including bus tours and tailor-made 4WD tours. The main 4WD touring service, as mentioned, is called Battlefields by 4×4, which offers 4WD-guided tours designed to enable small groups to visit battlefields, iconic cemeteries and memorials, and access some of the European battlefields of the first and second World Wars.
The tours provide unique and informative commentary over CB radio from experienced battlefield guides. Carl Liversage, one of the directors and guides, told me that one of the touring 4WDs used by Battlefield by 4×4 is a TB48 Nissan Patrol that started its life in Australia before being shipped to the UK and then making its way to the north of France.
Carl said it’s one of Battlefield by 4×4’s best-equipped 4WDs, boasting a TJM winch bumper, winch, snorkel, 285/75 16 tyres on steel wheels, custom rock sliders, stainless steel exhaust, snorkel, LED light bar and rear-mounted LEDs, custom sound system, remote alarm with remote engine start, and various other bits and bobs.
Carl told me that when it first arrived for touring duties with Battlefield by 4×4, it was very expensive to run with fuel prices much higher than those in Australia. It was eventually decided to do an LPG conversion and, as a result, it’s now much more affordable to run and is very much at home taking people to the sites and battlefields.
Unlike the images in history books, the landscape of Northern France and Belgium is filled with fields of bright yellows, greens and distinctive red poppies. During the Great War, the colour would have been predominantly brown, grey and dominated by mud and bomb craters.
However, driving through this region in a 4WD and witnessing the battlefield’s large grassed-over craters and trenches, and the magnificent memorials that honour the 295,000 Australians who served in this theatre of war, brings this place to life.
TOURING IN FRANCE
FRANCE possesses a wide variety of dirt tracks that meander through very diverse landscapes: from coastal plains in the north and west to the mountain ranges of the Alps in the south-east, and from the remote Massif Central in the south-central to the Pyrenees in the south-west.
Finding a network of dirt tracks in France requires research, and when located you need to know if you’re allowed to drive on them. Generally, you’re allowed to use an existing public lane, though look out for signs that read ‘propriété privée’ which means ‘private property’. In France, the same rules apply to driving on greenlanes as in the UK and many other European countries: drive slowly and in small groups, and keep litter in your car.
The tracks are mostly in good condition but can be dusty and rough in spots, particularly in mountainous areas. By booking a tour with companies like Battlefields by 4×4, you won’t have to worry about tracks to take as it’ll tailor the tour to suit your areas of interest.
More infomation: greatwar.co.uk/places/somme-camping.htm
BATTLEFIELD BY 4X4
BATTLEFIELD by 4×4 tours cover all of the key Australian sites of interest, including Pozieres and Mouquet Farm, as well as the key ANZAC memorials/battlegrounds embedded into the landscape.
As of 2017, Battlefield by 4×4 now covers the southern area of the Somme, which includes additional Australian sites such as Le Hamel and the Australian National Memorial at Villers-Bretonneux. In 2018, this area will also host a state-of-the-art ‘John Monash’ visitor centre.
TRAVEL PLANNER
DRIVING TIPS THERE are some compulsory items for driving in France. By law, a self-test breathalyser is required onboard, plus a reflective jacket and warning triangle. Remember, you will be driving on the right-hand side of the road.
CAMPING FRANCE has a well-earned reputation when it comes to campsites, with a huge variety on offer. However, unlike Australia, it’s limited when it comes to remote camping. In the Somme region are a number of campsites offering a variety of touring pitches close to the Somme battlefields and the River Somme. The Les Puits Tournants campsite is located close to the Australian Memorial. For more infomation: camping-puitstournants.com
GETTING THERE IF YOU have flown in from Australia and are using the UK as a base, the Channel Tunnel is the quickest but not the cheapest way to get to France. It is advisable to always book in advance.
BEST TIME TO TRAVEL THE best time to travel to France is between April and October. July and August tend to be busy months, so if you’re not restricted to travelling then, you’ll avoid peak season traffic. It’s also much more affordable to travel in April, May and early June.
MAPS AND GUIDES GOOD dirt tracks maps include the Memory-Map’s (IGN) 1:25000. These clearly identify tracks. If you join Codever you will be sent a useful booklet explaining where you can legally travel. Other maps include the IGN bleu carte de randonnee 1:25000. These cover everything down to narrow pathways, barns, rivers and springs, and every part of France.
GET out a magnifying glass, take a real close look at the photographs and tell me what you see.
This was first published in 4×4 Australia’s December 2012 issue.
You’d be safe in assuming the vehicle is a stock-standard Range Rover Vogue, right? Well, no. I’ll bet you didn’t notice the bulletproof glass, or the heavy-duty wheels with run-flat tyres, or the tamper-proof exhaust. This is an armoured Range Rover and, as such, you won’t find anything so crass as chequer-plate, slits for windows, gun ports, or a half-track under its bum.
“This isn’t a battlefield weapon,” says Land Rover’s Armoured Vehicle Driver Trainer, Ian Halton, as he points out all of the toughened bits of the car the LR watchdogs won’t let us show you. Sorry.
There are overlaps on all the doors, even on the rear-boot lid, to ensure ‘splash’, or molten metal/shrapnel can’t penetrate door shuts or handles; the petrol tank is wrapped in armour; and the battery is stashed inside an armoured box in the boot. Even the exhaust pipe is fitted with mesh to prevent tampering.
The body provides 360-degree protection with ballistic and blast steel, and Kevlar armour is hidden beneath the Range Rover’s skin. Indeed, the outer skin is a façade only and so it can be stone-chipped, dented by a shopping trolley or even two-bobbed.
“It’s designed not to be noticed, which is probably its greatest defensive asset,” says Halton. The plasma-cut, fixed-in-place, 40mm-thick toughened and heavily tinted glass is noticeable, however, but only if you catch it in the right light, at the right angle.
So, to the untrained eye, there’s nothing to suggest this car could step into the ring with two handfuls of hand grenades or an AK-47 and come out looking like anything other than a smouldering ruin. But it can. The Range Rover you see on these pages has been armoured to within an inch of its life, which is the not-so-technical speak for B6-plus. It’s a virtual bunker.
And to prove that point, Halton flips open his laptop, runs a film and starts narrating: “That rig next to the Land Rover Discovery [armoured to the same level as this Range Rover] holds 15kg of high explosive.” Then he’s silent… nothing… nothing… nothing… then… kaboom!
It’s the sort of explosion you see in a Hollywood movie, or see the aftermath of on the news; the sort of explosion that would reduce four or five regular cars to black smears on the ground. Only when the smoke clears, the Disco is anything but a smear. Sure, the glass is crazed, the bonnet has been blown off and is God-knows-where, the outer skin has been shredded, and the tyres look ruined, but the vehicle is still standing.
“That car was able to be driven away from that explosion and the passengers would have survived,” Halton says as my jaw hits the table. He then shows me police footage of the Thai Prime Minister’s lightly-armoured S-Class being attacked during the 2010 riots in that country.
“The driver, in this instance, got himself trapped in the hotel compound and so, with almost nothing more than a few plastic garden chairs, pot plants, and flip-flops [thongs] the protestors almost gained access to the Prime Minister. Only the organisers calling off the attack saved the situation.”
The Thai government has since bought [this number is classified] armoured Discovery 4s from Land Rover, and Halton taught the drivers how to use them, as he’s done with Sri Lankan government officials, as well as dignitaries, security personnel, police officers, military men and women, millionaires and religious leaders from around the world.
But, buying an armoured Land Rover isn’t as easy as you might think. For a start, you have to apply to buy one, and not just to Land Rover, but, if you’re buying in the UK, to the British Home Office. Plenty of punters, says Halton, have been turned down “for one reason or another”.
Once the vetting process has finished, Land Rover appoints a dedicated security consultant to work with the customer to ensure the vehicle is built to meet their requirements. All vehicles are sold with a warranty, and driver training as part of the package. Added extras include regular visits to a technician to ensure the vehicle is in tip-top condition. (In case you’re wondering – no armoured Rangie, or Disco, had yet been sold in Australia at time of writing.)
An hour or so later, and with my head filled with tales of assassination attempts and kidnappings – “in 2005, there were 442 kidnappings in London alone”, Halton says – and my notepad full of situational awareness, route selection and risk-assessment techniques, I am led out to the armoured Range Rover. Playtime is about to begin.
Well, at least it will as soon as I can get the door open. So heavily armoured is this thing that it takes all of the strength I have just to pull open the doors. Once inside, and with my breath back, I kick over the armoured Range Rover. Three times.
See, with almost two tonnes of armour around the body you can’t hear a thing from inside the cabin. Indeed, you have to use an intercom system, hidden in the cup holders, to talk and listen to people outside.
On the move, the armoured Range Rover rides and handles like a regular Range Rover. And that’s all down to its 5.0-litre V8 thumping out 276kW and 510Nm, and a Prodrive-tweaked chassis, air suspension, braking system and heavy-duty wheels. So, because it still behaves like a proper Rangie, you can clamber over gutters, down steps, or even push through walls if need be. Not that we got to do any of that.
“The Range Rover’s armour and all-road ability can mean the difference between life and death; but all it does is buy you a few vital seconds,” Halton says.
But, he adds, as strong as the armoured Range Rover is it all comes down to the driver: “most of our training revolves around familiarising the driver with the extra weight of the armoured Range Rover and how to handle that extra weight in a life-threatening situation.” Because, he says, if you start getting ham-fisted with it, even a vehicle as capable as the Range Rover can be rolled.
And that’s why, right now, I’m driving a figure-of-eight around a very large, and very empty car park.
“The key is to be firm but smooth, it’s when you panic and yank at the wheel with too much speed that you can tip it over and you don’t want that when you’re being shot at.”
But the best technique for escaping an ambush, and one of the most difficult to master, Halton says, is the high-speed reverse. Most difficult because you have to master three different ways of doing it: using the wing mirrors, using the rear-vision mirror, or looking over your shoulder. And all the while, bullets might be slapping into your vehicle.
Using the rear-vision mirror I end up way off-course, running over the witches hats simulating a line of parked cars against the gutter. Game Over. Reset. Start again.
Using the wing mirrors I stay straight, but I’m slow, too slow, according to Halton. But looking back over my shoulder and locking my hand onto the top of the wheel, I manage to stay straight, even with the throttle mashed into the deep-pile carpet.
From there, Halton runs me through a brake-and-steer exercise designed to simulate avoiding an obstacle or even a gunman who has jumped out from behind a parked car. It’s simple enough to do, but it’s terrifying, because if you brake too late with too much speed on board you could understeer into a parked car, or building, or… and end up a sitting duck. Worse still, you could turn too hard, be too soft on the brakes and roll the car.
With this two-and-a-bit-million-dollars-worth of bunker scheduled to be sent to the detailers in the next hour, before being delivered to its new owner tomorrow, there’s just enough time for one more exercise.
And that is the high-speed brake test, which would theoretically then lead into the high-speed reverse. So I pin the throttle to the boards, the big girl picks up her skirt and hammers to 100km/h; I immediately get on the brakes with both feet.
The armoured Range Rover’s run-flat EMT tyres grip into the road and the Rangie screeches to a halt. I slam it into reverse. Gunmen avoided. VIP safe. Phew. And there, sadly, endeth the lesson.
NEARLY 20 years ago when I was in the USA for the first time with the winners of the inaugural Outback Challenge, driving through some of the incredible red rock country of Moab in Utah, I took the opportunity to grab a Jeep and explore wider afield.
This was first published in 4×4 Australia’s September 2015 issue.
Somehow that took me to Lees Ferry; the historic crossing point of the Colorado River. Lees Ferry is approximately 20km downstream from Glen Canyon Dam and the put-in point for adventurers wanting to raft down the Grand Canyon. I watched a group of people who had waited 10 years to get a permit to raft the canyon and were finally doing it. I thought, rather whimsically at the time, ‘I’d like to do that!’
I was back at Lees Ferry last year, once again saying, ‘I’d like to do that,’ and my wife Viv said, ‘Well, bloody book a trip and do it!’ So I did!
There are about a dozen companies offering rafting trips down the Grand Canyon, ranging from one-day fly-in-fly-out affairs from Las Vegas to 14-day adventures on motor, paddle or oar rafts. While an oar raft is powered by one rowing guide (better known as the ‘boatman’), the paddle rafts are powered by four paddling guests, guided by a boatman. The paddle rafts are the least popular and you can probably guess why.
Most people take the powered-raft option. These might not suit the die-hard rafter or adventurer, but for most people they are the best compromise between time, cost and actually spending more time exploring the side canyons and other places along the way. Being bigger and powered, they are also safer. You just don’t want to fall out – if you do, all bets regarding safety are off!
We chose an eight-day/seven-night trip with Grand Canyon Whitewater; one of the oldest and biggest companies operating on the river. This full canyon trip from Mile 0 at Lees Ferry to Mile 225 at Diamond Creek was on-board one of the big powered rafts and I would recommend it to anyone.
We had a pretty cool trip, and with the water temperature always below 10°C (it comes out the bottom of Glen Canyon Dam) getting wet – which will happen – was a chilling experience for four days on the river.
To say there are a few rapids is understating it a bit. Every day, we dropped over significant falls of white water, the most and the biggest when we were in the heart of the canyon below the viewing points at the south and north rim. Not that we actually saw the rims too often, the canyon is much too sheer; so bloody big and deep that it isn’t possible at most places.
One of the things I must comment on was the condition of the camps. More than 20,000 people raft the canyon each year and there are strict rules to comply with. All solid waste must be brought out with you (yep, including poo).
The many camping spots along the river – sand bars in all cases – are near pristine. I’ve never seen such a well-loved place so bloody spotless and I reckon plenty of Aussie ‘adventurers’ could learn a thing or two here about bush etiquette.
So I’ve ticked that bloody fantastic rafting trip off my bucket list. Would I do it again? For sure – but my bucket list keeps growing, so I might have trouble fitting it in! Viv told me, ‘Well, bloody book a trip and do it,’ so maybe it’s time to think about your own bucket list, too. We’re only on this planet for a short time.
MOTOGP champion Valentino Rossi has put his name to a tickled Ford; a limited edition VR46 Ranger.
Developed in the UK with Ford rally specialists MS-RT, the VR46 Ranger is more than just a dress-up pack despite an unchanged mechanical package. Headlining the list of features is a Pedders 4×4 Touring package, which uses foam cell shock absorbers, TrakRyder coil springs and variable-load leaf springs to give the PXII Ranger a 50mm lift.
The head-turning bodywork of the Ranger – which was worked on by MS-RT and Carlex Design – is highlighted by bespoke front and rear bumpers, extravagant wheel-arch flares, rally-style mudflaps and a unique grille.
The front bumper houses LED daytime running lights; an LED light bar sits on the front grille; and a Lazer light bar resides up top.
Metal underbody protection protects the engine sump and fuel tank, while the rig rides on 265/65 BFG tyres fitted to bespoke 18-inch alloys.
Based on the XLT-spec Ranger, the VR46 is well-equipped with interior niceties (the interior, like the exterior, also exudes a sense of quirkiness).
Autosource International has the rights to the VR46 Ranger here, and assembles them using locally sourced Fords in Melbourne.
Watch the video to find out how the VR46 Ranger performed off-road, or pick up a copy of 4X4 Australia’s December issue for a comprehensive review. The December issue of 4X4 Australia will be in stores November 2, 2017.
IT’S a tall order to ask a single 4×4 to excel at all facets of the off-road world, however, I reckon I’ve ticked all the boxes with this dinosaur-engined 100 Series (HZJ105R) Land Cruiser.
This review was first published in 4×4 Australia’s December 2012 issue.
From winching or snatching bogged trucks out of magazine photo-shoots, to hauling camper trailers and caravans around the countryside, to trying to avoid rock rash while tip-toeing through angry boulders, to floating over powder-soft sand or plugging though mud that sticks like you know what to a shovel, this Cruiser has to tackle all that and more on a regular basis.
What could possibly be more? Try carting a tribe of kids all over the country – those plain-Jane vinyl floors really come into their own when it’s time for a clean.
Once hosed off, though, the big Cruiser is perfect as a daily driver and can tackle shopping centres and drop the kids at school, and it’s just as easily driven by my wife, who’s not mechanically-minded. Now, that’s one big ‘must-do’ as far as I’m concerned.
I’ve spoken with many custom vehicle owners over the years who mention they’d never let their partners drive their truck for fear of cooking the over-boosted turbo system, rolling the over-suspended gangly-looking set-up or even for fear of breaking down.
We have none of those fears with this ever-reliable set-up; although, unfortunately, we did suffer one major breakdown that was totally unrelated to any of the mods that have been done. Rather, it was, what I reckon, a design fault of Toyota, but more on that later.
I own this Cruiser and, strangely – or cleverly, depending on where you sit – enough, given the access I have to the industry’s latest and greatest gizmos, I choose to keep it mild rather than wild. It’s not packed full of the latest high-tech electronic gadgets, it hasn’t had an engine conversion, and it doesn’t stand tall among some others we’ve seen on the tracks.
Nope, this sensibly accessorised Cruiser has everything it needs to do its job – during and after business hours – and not a skerrick more to weigh it down.
That’s been a major consideration too: the weighty issue of accessorising for the sake of it. Being sensible with accessories is an art form these days, especially in light of the plethora of gimmicky bits and pieces available for many vehicles – many not worth their weight in two-bob plastic.
That’s not to say this Cruiser is lightweight. Unfortunately, some of the most-needed parts are heavy but well worth it in the long run. That’s where careful planning and foresight helps in selecting the right parts, while making allowances for extra weight.
Starting from the ground up, I opted for reasonably heavy duty two-inch raised Tough Dog coils for front and rear, together with nine-stage adjustable Tough Dog 45mm shocks and Polyair airbag inserts for the rear coils. The all-round adjustability of the ride (via the shocks) and the load-carrying (via the Polyairs and coils) was the build-up’s foundation.
This set-up provides plenty of suspension flexibility on the harder tracks, firmness for good on-road driveability; plus good load-carrying ability while towing and packed to the gunnels, without resulting in sagging-rear-end syndrome.
The Tough Dog adjustable steering damper also helps with the weighty larger 285/75R16 Cooper ST rubber wrapped around the alloy CSA Stampede 16-inch rims – they’re a 16 x 8 with a 5/150 PCD and 0 offset.
To help the Cruiser get over the ‘wanders’, an ARB polyurethane two-degree castor kit has been added to the front control arms. So, does the whole show steer dead perfect? Nope, not at all, but it’s pretty good considering the off-road orientated, deep-treaded rubber, taller flexible coils and the extra weight of the rear ARB dual-wheel carrier aboard.
While having two spares aboard all the time may seem like a little overkill, given the use this Cruiser gets, it’s good precautionary insurance to avert holding up jobs out in the scrub too long should a tyre pop. Plus, having that second spare does bode well with security for the family while out in the boondocks.
To ensure maximum ‘go-forward’ drive is passed down to the rubber, front and rear manually-operated TJM ProLocker diff locks have been fitted, together with an underbonnet-mounted air compressor, to which an extra air hose can be connected for tyre-inflation duties.
Leading the way through the long country drives in the dead of night is a set of HID Narva spotties, which are fitted to an ARB steel winch bar. This bar is also a resting place for a GME UHF aerial that is hooked up to an Icom IC-400PRO UHF radio. A Warn XDC (Extreme Duty Cycle) 9500lb winch with wire rope serves duty for recovering vehicles – and stuck cows from mud baths, believe it or not.
While this winch may not be the fastest on the block, it does pack plenty of pulling power and, hey, I’m not in any competition-type hurry. Plus, the water- and dust-proof contactor pack is far more reliable than the older-style solenoids in many other winches.
The aforementioned rear ARB wheel-carrier carts two 33-inch spare wheels and, while not designed to do so, also serves as a step up to the mismatched roof-rack set-up of three Rhino commercial cross bars with a rather crudely attached full-length aluminium rack bed left over from one of my previous 4x4s.
Amusingly, or embarrassingly, that rack was temporarily put up there about six years ago and has served so well that it’s become a permanent fixture and is a talking point to all who notice how it’s attached. While I’ve been part of many engine transplant stories – V8 petrol and replacement diesels, many of which are simply brilliant – I’ve chosen to stick with the old dinosaur-era, sleepy 1HZ naturally-aspirated diesel engine.
There has been a huge increase in oomph via a DTS water-cooled Mitsubishi TDO5H turbo and top-mount intercooler, though, which incorporates a stainless-steel heat guard and a GU Patrol bonnet scoop to direct the air into the horizontally-positioned radiator.
A three-inch mandrel-bent Beaudesert exhaust system with a ‘straight-through’ muffler completes the power-up system and returns a nice engine and turbo note without being too intrusive or annoying. All up, this prehistoric engine has been safely upped from just 95kW and 260Nm at the flywheel to an impressive 153kW and 430Nm – that’s more than a 60 per cent increase and a set-up that hasn’t returned a single problem in almost 70,000km of use.
While the turbocharged 1HZ used to breathe through a washable/reusable K&N air filter, I’ve since reverted to good old replaceable paper units. There wasn’t anything wrong with the washable versions, I just couldn’t be bothered going through the cleaning routine and am just as happy putting a totally clean new one in each time.
Under the bonnet, a secondary AGM deep-cycle Fullriver 120 amp hour battery is squeezed into a custom-made battery holder and is charged via a Projecta 150 amp battery (smart) isolator. That battery provides up to four days power to the 20-year-old 40-litre Engel fridge that usually resides in the rear cargo area.
The homemade steel tube-frame incorporates the fridge slide and a top-shelf setting that has proven invaluable for storing camp chairs, a solar panel and MaxTrax, and it’s also stuffed full of pillows and blankets when the family tags along. And, none of that gear finds its way onto the kids’ heads thanks to the Milford cargo barrier.
In an effort to protect the Cruiser’s sills from rock rash and to help with ingress into the higher riding cabin, I’ve had a custom set of sliders/steps grafted to the chassis rails by Macquarie 4×4, in McGraths Hill, NSW. These steps are strong enough to support the weight of the Cruiser on a high-lift jack and are upswept to enhance ground clearances.
While I would like to get better fuel consumption – who wouldn’t? – I’m generally happy with the 13 to 14L/100km (not towing) I’ve been getting. Not great, but okay for such a large, heavy 4×4. As far as what extra parts I’d like to see bolted on; better seats are at the top of the list, followed by a set of LED light bars to throw out more light to the sides when off-road at night, an air tank – and I should really fix that roof rack set-up.
There’s no doubting there are tougher, more hardcore weapons out there. So too are there better highway performers as well as far superior, more economic, fuel-feasting engines, but you know what? I reckon that after 70,000km of hard service, this old Land Cruiser really is a Jack-of-all-trades and is damn near master of every single one.
SOME STRIFE
AN AIRTEC snorkel and diff breather extensions have been fitted to allow for safer wading; although, in an unfortunate incident the mighty Cruiser was flat-towed for major surgery after the fan blade ripped the radiator apart. The water crossing wasn’t all that deep, but the steep, soft sand bank at the exit, combined with towing a camper trailer, meant several attempts at conquering it.
With the reversing into the water after each failed attempt, the fan blade struck the water, twisted forward and gave the old radiator several extra water outlets – which led to overheating and a cracked head.
Now, this is where I’ll throw a little blame Toyota’s way. Did you know that Toyota has three different fan blades for the 100 Series Land Cruiser – each of which may or may not have been fitted to any 100 Series from any country? All three are the same size, have the same number of blades (eight) and are interchangeable into the standard central fan hub.
But, one huge difference is the flexibility of each fan’s blades. Some are almost able to be pushed, by hand, into the radiator, whereas others are much stiffer. For anyone else that pedals a 100 Series, have a look on your fan blades for a coloured paint dot about the size of a 5- or 10-cent piece – it’ll be blue (the most flexible one and what I had) or yellow or red (the more rigid options).
Needless to say, once I found the problem I swapped over and have never had that problem again but, of course, I also use a water blind if my Cruiser is wading through very deep water. Tyre-wise, I’ve only suffered one puncture in the big Coopers: a bloody nail straight through the tread.
The dodgy, cheap bucket seats I’m using have been re-upholstered once already due to the internal foam falling to bits. They’re getting close to needing another upgrade – perhaps they’ll get the flick and I’ll try a better set to help support my aging back.
Due to their oversized outer body diameter, the Tough Dog shocks just touch the swaybar arm at full flex. It’s nothing to worry about bar a bit of scratched paint and doesn’t affect the workings of the shock or swaybar.
Other than that, I’m happy to report no other failings or major problems and would happily rebuild an identical truck if the need arose. However, I’d probably go for a GXL rather than the standard barn-doored wagon to incorporate a few little luxuries, such as electric windows and central door locking.
That’s right, I’m still winding the windows up and down manually and that’s a bit of a pain. Being able to do it from the driver’s seat would be brilliant; so too would the ability to unlock all four doors at once instead of walking around them all. Technology – ain’t it grand?
HOLDEN added a limited edition Storm model to its Colorado line-up.
Despite its name, the Storm has landed on the market with minimal noise or disruption, and it adds but a few additions to the LTZ it’s based on – an integrated nudge bar, front seat heaters, leather upholstery and a bonnet protector.
The Storm nestles between the LTZ and Z71 in the Colorado line-up and is available in crew-cab form only.
Everything within the engine bay remains untouched, with the Storm utilising the 2.8-litre turbo-diesel engine familiar to the Colorado line-up. This four-cylinder generates 147kW and 440Nm (six-speed manual)/ 500Nm (six-speed auto).
Holden shifted 910 Colorados in September this year, giving it a 6.6 per cent share of the monthly 4×4 sales market.
On the year-to-date charts, 13,142 Colorados have left the showroom floor – a 2.0 per cent increase when compared to 2016 YTD results.
So far this year, the Colorado is the fourth best-selling vehicle on the 4×4 charts. It trails the Ford Ranger (28,026), Toyota Hilux (26,039) and Mitsubishi Triton (14,827).
Before on-road costs the Storm retails for $52,490 for the manual and $54,690 for the auto.
However, until October 31, the Colorado Storm – with either automatic or manual transmission – is currently available from only $51,990 driveaway.
The Colorado Storm comes with a seven-year warranty.
PEOPLE are naturally competitive, so it’s little wonder that, like explorers of old, four-wheel drivers tend to lay claim to finding things first, crossing things first, climbing things first and descending into things first.
The only thing I ever did first when four-wheel driving was to be part of a team that busted through the scrub in the Gulf of Carpentaria and rediscovered one of Carruthers and Wells’ 1886 mile markers, but all credit for that experience must go to Ron Moon, who did all the planning for the trip and led the expedition.
Of course, if a ‘doing it first’ achievement is out of the question, then you can always lay claim to something else, such as travelling the farthest, climbing the highest or descending the deepest depths.
Now, I’ve done some pretty big trips in my time, but I’m certain a three-day drive from Mount Isa to Sydney or a another three-day run from Sydney to Perth is not nearly as far as many of you lot have travelled (although, the drive south was in a Land Rover Defender and the drive west was in a Frontera, so both seemed much farther than they were).
The longest I’ve gone without seeing another vehicle off-road is a week or so along the Madigan Line in the Simpson Desert. But when it comes to four-wheel driving at altitude, I’ll definitely have a few of you licked.
How does a short-of-breath 4500m sound? Yep, at this altitude, breathing can be a bit of a task, especially if you’ve driven to these lofty heights in a relatively short period of time, not allowing your body to acclimatise.
And so it was back in 2006, when I started feeling quite dizzy after visiting San Vicente, Bolivia, a town of 104 hardy souls who live at an altitude of 4502m. So dizzy, in fact, that I had to hand over the keys of the Rangie I was driving to current 4X4 Editor Matt Raudonikis and slip into the relative safety of the passenger’s seat.
The interesting thing about San Vicente is that it’s supposedly where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were killed in 1908; although, on hearing this, William A Pinkerton dismissed it as ‘fake news’ and the Pinkerton Detective Agency never called off its search for the two outlaws.
San Vicente truly is an inhospitable place, with the high altitude, strong winds, barren landscape and sub-zero temperatures combining to make it somewhat less than comfortable; it’s little wonder it has such a modest population. I kept a close eye on the altimeter as we left town, counting down the metres as we returned to a more palatable sub-4000m.
I’m sure that some of you can lay claim to having driven higher than 4500m. According to that wonderful source of all things true, Wikipedia, there are several drivable roads that run through passes higher than 5500m, most of which are between India and Tibet. But if you’ve not four-wheeled outside of Australia, you’re at least 2500m shy of experiencing a seriously high-altitude track.
As for driving at low altitudes, I’ve gone just about as deep as you can go on land. In 2007, I joined a few mates on a drive through Death Valley in California. At its lowest point, Death Valley drops to an impressive 86m below sea level.
“Wait!” I here you say. “I’ve driven lower than that.” Well hang on. So have I.
Back in 2000, I drove down near the shores of the Dead Sea in Jordan at an altitude of 430m below sea level. As the Dead Sea Depression is the lowest place on earth, I’m pretty certain no one has driven a four-wheel drive lower than I have … at least on land.